Those parametric equations would've been a HUGE help to me and my design team a couple months ago XD. We were using a lengthier method to create some 3-D printed cycloidal disks for a robotics project. Glad to see this method though! Saving this video for future reference :)
Check out my favorite 3D printers, the K1 Max: amzn.to/3txQUC6 or if you are on a budget, the Ender-3 V3 SE: amzn.to/3FkCPus I hope you enjoyed this video and learned something new! If you'd like to support me making more content like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/howtomechatronics
@How To Mechatronics: Hello, I want to buy the Solidworks for Makers and use your 20% discount, but unfortunatelly the link doesn't work for applying the discount - do you have a discount code, which I can use?
As both motors were skipping, I was really curious about the internal damage caused. Sad that you didn't show that. I'd love it even more if you would maybe replace the top with acrylic to see what's going on inside
@@Flashbang_Photo I don't think the stepper was skipping, I think the drive was skipping. The only experiment where the motor was skipping was with the small motor and the machined drive. The backlash was too large for the motor to be the one skipping in the other tests, imo
@@m.sierra5258 If this drive skips, it is permanently broken (as most gear boxes are). The skipping was the stepper motor reaching its torque limit and losing steps. Btw. that's not something steppers do to avoid damage, it's just something that happens when the torque limit is reached (which is defined by the current to motors get, which in turn is set by the stepper driver).
@@superdau where does the max torque difference between the printed and machined box then come from? I don't see how the ratio would differ. Or is plastic just that much more lossy?
@@m.sierra5258 The plastic can't transfer all the torque to the stick. Some of the torque is lost due to the plastic giving up, as the damage at the end showed. Other materials than PLA might hold up better.
I made a cycloidal for the gearboxes of a robot arm for my capstone mechanical engineering project. They are nice because it's easy to have the reducer on the robotic arm and it looks good too. Great video. Thanks for taking the time and presenting it.
I have been trying to make an almost 100% 3d printed planetary gear box with good efficiency. And I've already noticed a huge difference between gear generator softwares. I think that's how youtuber Paul gold got 30 Newton meters of torque out of a smaller stepper with a 3d printed cyclodial gear. Your measurements of a 1 to 3 decrease in performance Is significant. I would love if Paul measured the efficiency too. But beggars can't be choosers. Love the video!!!
this is a really interesting comparison. I wonder what the best of both worlds would be. If you just put the cnc cyclodial disks or maybe other parts in the 3d printed version I wonder if its power/weight ratio would beat out the other 2 alone
I tried SF1 bushings at one point too (and HK needle bearings before that), but nowadays I press PTFE tube into brass tube to make low-friction bushings whatever length I want and without any seam. Although it is fairly time consuming cutting and deburring a large number of tubes to precise length, even with a tubing cutter. And not all PTFE tubes are concentric, so it can be trouble finding a good supplier.
@@PhantomBlank Was gonna say that, get PTFE tubes with greater wall thickness, smaller ID bigger OD, machine, broach & sand to spec, so you get cheaper materials and greater accuracy, problem solved.
I think it would also help to use sturdier material for 3D printed parts. I personally use polycarbonate for these high stress parts, as PLA is softer and it can wear quite easily.
I used to work at a company that made those kinds of planar polymer bearing/bushings and they are almost exclusively made to be pressfit into a tight fit bore. Maybe a design iteration would be to get a ground thin walled tube and pressfit the bushes into them. Also those kinds of contact surfaces should be hardened and ground to a fine surface finish. Obviously not super easy to do but better gearbox life
first thing i noticed. Those bushings are not designed for his use. The "oversized" measurement is as it should be to have a tight fit. Even the inner diameter is too lose as long as they are not pressed into a bore. You can see it at 12:01 with your bare eye, that the bushings have radial play on the shafts...
Nicely explained with a good project. 👍 I think CNC's product gives better results rather than printing machine. Printing machine's product are of PBC which are worne out at the rubbing areas and can malfunction due to clearance where as the CNC machine's product are of metal and by greasing it can give a better results in comparison to printing product.
This is really good because it tells me that it's a really nice design and it's far to many components to be a low cost solution for a budget product, which is good info.
I noticed a few times you had issues with the powder coating. You can specify that it should be to drawing dimensions after the coating is applied to avoid oversizing the part and keeping it to your tolerances in the drawing.
I paid around 60 usd to make a single shaft coupling approx 50*50*25mm with them. I have yet to receive it though, I hope it will fit otherwise it would money wasted.
I'd say around 1500-2000usd (source: I'm a prototype machinist) The undercut of the main housing and the two flats on the eccentric shaft adapter add complexity to it. If you wanted the gears to be high precision then I'd recommend using 4140 prehard (versus jig grinding, which would be more accurate but much more expensive), not stainless steel. That way you could also use better/harder bushings (drill bushings) which would increase performance significantly without increasing cost significantly. Fill it up with some sticky grease and boom!
The housings on these should have some sort of mounting flanges on them; clamping them as was done in this video shows that the housings themselves move up and down, implying that all forces aren’t being transferred to the load.
after seeing the failure of the threaded inserts at 18:17, I had to look at my own design and question whether the inserts would fail for a 13 Nm application on the output shaft, however in looking back I realized that you only had the torque distributed on two pins for that whole load rather than the whole 6 pins available. This leaves me more hopeful? I'll comment back on this whether I get significant plastic deformation for my version as well.
It looks like you can back drive that drive by hand fairly easily even with the nema 23 hooked up towards the end of the video when you are demonstrating the backlash. seems hard to reconcile that with the torque values you measured it outputting.
I think you're going to have inconsistent backlash regardless. When the two gears are in phase, the holes line up and the only thing indexing the pins is them being pushed tangentially by the holes in the gears. When they're 180 degrees out of phase, same story. 90 degrees and (I think) the pins are being pushed by the gears directly in the direction you want them to go. Shouldn't you be able to add a 3rd gear and have 3 eccentric bearings 120 degrees out of phase? That should (again, I think) reduce the backlash. The more gears, the less backlash. Probably the same diminishing returns as a 3 phase motor: 2 isn't enough, 4 is too many. The 3d printed one should be easy to test at least.
You could try using drill bushings instead, they are pretty accurate if a bit expensive. Otherwise if PCBWay is sponsoring you might as well just order some custom lol, I've ordered hardened 440C bushings from them and they came out quite accurate too.
Regarding modeling technique; is there a reason why not a 0 to 2pi/(number lobes) and a radial symmetry by number of lobes? is that to avoid surface modeling lines? coming from a Catia V5 modeling experience. gap with a spline just irks me and probably is creating some odd tribology down stream.
How To Mechatronics should be fined each time he missed an opportunity to say *SPACER.* It was still a great video even though there wasn't enough SPACERs in it.
These cycloidal drive reduction drives are very interesting. I wonder about their capacity work at increasing motor speed. Essentially driving the unit from the output shaft, to increase the drive of the input shaft. An example would be a centrifugal supercharger where the input shaft might be driven to say 6000rpm, but the output might need to be 100,000rpm.
Its be interesting to see a mostly 3d printed housing, bearing cartridge etc but with a cnc input and output shaft and cyclodal disk. Try and reduce some of the mass of the cnc
Yeah, that's a good point. A combination of the two versions would be best solution for some DIY projects. The cycloidal disks are most important in this case I think and they can be made out of some metal material, in combination with some metal rollers.
I bet you would get different results if the motor was more secure. Those clamps still let the motor twist thus losing energy. Also a piece of steel instead of plywood should help 😉
Good collab! I'm curious about how much a quote for those parts would total. I understand quotes are temporary for good reasons, but a ballpark would be nice.
Cycloidal drives are super interesting, you should do this video format for a planetary gear drive build next. Keep going mate, great content and already subscribed : ]
does the 15% loss in output occurs as sound, vibration, and heating? if so, where in the mechanism is most of the loss occurring? to improve efficiency or at least to improve durability at speed under load, what kind of mitigation would be beneficial? Would cooling be necessary during prolonged use?
Just note that like Autodesk, Dassault Systemes has a history of offering "free" or "affordable" tools for "makers", then increasing the price as time goes along. It's not an offer that I would expect to last forever.
I wold really like to see a comparison with a planetary gear of the same reduction (probably needs to be 2-stage). At the same outside dimensions a planetary gear would be a beast.
@@Shocker99 not to mention that a lot of the features in those parts would require a CNC lathe or some other 4/5 axis CNC machine and as far as I'm aware 4th/5th axis hobby CNC builds are rare and currently unable to produce parts like this (accuracy, holding forces, etc.)
I think if that wooden arm slipped off the force meter we would never find out about it. It would be the end of this beautiful youtube chanel. Be safe out there.
I know you did them both the same so you could test the material against eachother with the same dimensions but if someone wanted to make a strong 3d printed version, all you would have to do is make all the engagement points at least twice as thick.
In case both CNC and 3D print are hybridized, what parts should be CNC machined? I think backrash and housing rigidity are important, so cycroid gears, bush housing, input shaft and output bush housing should be aluminum. Outercase, motormount, some sims, output basement can be printed. How about your opinion?
When you mix materials with very different thermal expansion coefficients, in a gear that is supposed to be quite precise and have low backlash, you are in for some adventure.
Hi I’m not an engineer or scientist just a fan After watching your video with commercials Very well done I applaud you… Could this device replace the clockwork of my telescope mount in that it has minimal backlash?
I have a great application for those gearboxes. What about a motorized telescope mount? I'd love to have some ultra-low backlash, high-torque actuators to make one...
Those parametric equations would've been a HUGE help to me and my design team a couple months ago XD. We were using a lengthier method to create some 3-D printed cycloidal disks for a robotics project. Glad to see this method though! Saving this video for future reference :)
Glad I could help!
Check out my favorite 3D printers, the K1 Max: amzn.to/3txQUC6 or if you are on a budget, the Ender-3 V3 SE: amzn.to/3FkCPus
I hope you enjoyed this video and learned something new! If you'd like to support me making more content like this, please consider supporting me on Patreon: www.patreon.com/howtomechatronics
@How To Mechatronics: Hello, I want to buy the Solidworks for Makers and use your 20% discount, but unfortunatelly the link doesn't work for applying the discount - do you have a discount code, which I can use?
@@kaiseraugustus1393 Hey, please check the links in the description again, I've just updated them with the special 20% off discount offer.
Do you have a website with write up of this?
@@HowToMechatronics Hi.. Are you available right now?
hey man i am expert in pcb designing so if you need my service i can work for you i need some work
i do pcb designing multiple layers
As both motors were skipping, I was really curious about the internal damage caused. Sad that you didn't show that. I'd love it even more if you would maybe replace the top with acrylic to see what's going on inside
Skipping doesn't cause any damage, as is something steppers do exactly to avoid damage
@@Flashbang_Photo I don't think the stepper was skipping, I think the drive was skipping. The only experiment where the motor was skipping was with the small motor and the machined drive. The backlash was too large for the motor to be the one skipping in the other tests, imo
@@m.sierra5258
If this drive skips, it is permanently broken (as most gear boxes are). The skipping was the stepper motor reaching its torque limit and losing steps. Btw. that's not something steppers do to avoid damage, it's just something that happens when the torque limit is reached (which is defined by the current to motors get, which in turn is set by the stepper driver).
@@superdau where does the max torque difference between the printed and machined box then come from? I don't see how the ratio would differ. Or is plastic just that much more lossy?
@@m.sierra5258 The plastic can't transfer all the torque to the stick. Some of the torque is lost due to the plastic giving up, as the damage at the end showed. Other materials than PLA might hold up better.
I made a cycloidal for the gearboxes of a robot arm for my capstone mechanical engineering project. They are nice because it's easy to have the reducer on the robotic arm and it looks good too. Great video. Thanks for taking the time and presenting it.
Yeah, cycloidal drivers can be great choice for robotic arms builds.
I have been trying to make an almost 100% 3d printed planetary gear box with good efficiency. And I've already noticed a huge difference between gear generator softwares. I think that's how youtuber Paul gold got 30 Newton meters of torque out of a smaller stepper with a 3d printed cyclodial gear. Your measurements of a 1 to 3 decrease in performance Is significant. I would love if Paul measured the efficiency too. But beggars can't be choosers. Love the video!!!
Thanks for the input!
this is a really interesting comparison. I wonder what the best of both worlds would be. If you just put the cnc cyclodial disks or maybe other parts in the 3d printed version I wonder if its power/weight ratio would beat out the other 2 alone
Going through the CAD design for a cycloidal drive was very helpful. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful! Cheers!
I tried SF1 bushings at one point too (and HK needle bearings before that), but nowadays I press PTFE tube into brass tube to make low-friction bushings whatever length I want and without any seam. Although it is fairly time consuming cutting and deburring a large number of tubes to precise length, even with a tubing cutter. And not all PTFE tubes are concentric, so it can be trouble finding a good supplier.
A lathe may be ideal for that kind of precision cutting
@@PhantomBlank Was gonna say that, get PTFE tubes with greater wall thickness, smaller ID bigger OD, machine, broach & sand to spec, so you get cheaper materials and greater accuracy, problem solved.
Many congratulations!
how much was the cost of the CNC parts?
I think it would also help to use sturdier material for 3D printed parts. I personally use polycarbonate for these high stress parts, as PLA is softer and it can wear quite easily.
Thanks for the input!
What head and bed temp you are using on polycarbonate ? I am just curious to buy and try PC too
@@dzitiatri I use default Prusaslicer values, it works really well.
Try carbon fiber nylon too, if you can.
And you could probably do well with carbon fiber PETG, it is amazingly stiff!
I startet printing polycarbonate and it works very nice! I use 110°C bed and 290°C nozzle and a polycarbonate sheet as print plate.
I used to work at a company that made those kinds of planar polymer bearing/bushings and they are almost exclusively made to be pressfit into a tight fit bore. Maybe a design iteration would be to get a ground thin walled tube and pressfit the bushes into them. Also those kinds of contact surfaces should be hardened and ground to a fine surface finish. Obviously not super easy to do but better gearbox life
first thing i noticed. Those bushings are not designed for his use. The "oversized" measurement is as it should be to have a tight fit. Even the inner diameter is too lose as long as they are not pressed into a bore. You can see it at 12:01 with your bare eye, that the bushings have radial play on the shafts...
Thanks for the input. Yeah I realized that a bit late, and also they ware easily available.
Nicely explained with a good project. 👍
I think CNC's product gives better results rather than printing machine. Printing machine's product are of PBC which are worne out at the rubbing areas and can malfunction due to clearance where as the CNC machine's product are of metal and by greasing it can give a better results in comparison to printing product.
This is really good because it tells me that it's a really nice design and it's far to many components to be a low cost solution for a budget product, which is good info.
Wow that's some crazy 3d printing on those dowel pins and screws
I noticed a few times you had issues with the powder coating. You can specify that it should be to drawing dimensions after the coating is applied to avoid oversizing the part and keeping it to your tolerances in the drawing.
You should definitely do a video on how you've setup your printer. Your prints are great looking!
Greetings from the company that manufactures these gearboxes. 👋🏻
I work at Sumitomo Cyclo in Germany.
U can use 3MF file format instead of STL. It can store more info with smaller size.
What is the cost of all CNC parts?
the fact he didn't disclose it in the video says enough :-) (he's sponsored. if he was not, it would have been extremely costly :-) )
I paid around 60 usd to make a single shaft coupling approx 50*50*25mm with them. I have yet to receive it though, I hope it will fit otherwise it would money wasted.
At this part count, I would guess around $600 to $1000 US.
I'd say around 1500-2000usd (source: I'm a prototype machinist)
The undercut of the main housing and the two flats on the eccentric shaft adapter add complexity to it. If you wanted the gears to be high precision then I'd recommend using 4140 prehard (versus jig grinding, which would be more accurate but much more expensive), not stainless steel. That way you could also use better/harder bushings (drill bushings) which would increase performance significantly without increasing cost significantly. Fill it up with some sticky grease and boom!
Ya, custom CNC is expensive. Unless u have your own.
The housings on these should have some sort of mounting flanges on them; clamping them as was done in this video shows that the housings themselves move up and down, implying that all forces aren’t being transferred to the load.
This is the best Cycloidal Drive i saw, so far.
after seeing the failure of the threaded inserts at 18:17, I had to look at my own design and question whether the inserts would fail for a 13 Nm application on the output shaft, however in looking back I realized that you only had the torque distributed on two pins for that whole load rather than the whole 6 pins available. This leaves me more hopeful? I'll comment back on this whether I get significant plastic deformation for my version as well.
Beautiful motor! I've been looking for something for a DIY coffee grinder. How much did the metal motor cost from PCBWay?
"it's a precision drive" then "let's grind it with a dremel" JK lol. Great work man!
😁
Hi, You are great to teach about CNC. Congratulations.
because it has low/zero backlash this type of mechanism probably can be used for star-trackers and guiders too.
Very good - thanks for making and sharing the video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
It looks like you can back drive that drive by hand fairly easily even with the nema 23 hooked up towards the end of the video when you are demonstrating the backlash. seems hard to reconcile that with the torque values you measured it outputting.
I think you're going to have inconsistent backlash regardless. When the two gears are in phase, the holes line up and the only thing indexing the pins is them being pushed tangentially by the holes in the gears. When they're 180 degrees out of phase, same story. 90 degrees and (I think) the pins are being pushed by the gears directly in the direction you want them to go.
Shouldn't you be able to add a 3rd gear and have 3 eccentric bearings 120 degrees out of phase? That should (again, I think) reduce the backlash. The more gears, the less backlash. Probably the same diminishing returns as a 3 phase motor: 2 isn't enough, 4 is too many. The 3d printed one should be easy to test at least.
Wow. I'm so glad I discovered your channel. Excellent resource and very insightful. Thank you ... 🇬🇧
Welcome!
I made the original 3d printed version of this a while ago and it served me well but it was an utter pain in the ass to assemble.
I have a sleeping problem and this video have helped ;)
Very nice project
Congrats from 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Yeah installing bearings with a hammer might not initially show failure but the little dents caused in the raceways will wear the bearing out quickly
i am wondering of there is also a reduction in noise in between them
worth waiting for your new video
You could try using drill bushings instead, they are pretty accurate if a bit expensive. Otherwise if PCBWay is sponsoring you might as well just order some custom lol, I've ordered hardened 440C bushings from them and they came out quite accurate too.
Thank for the input!
Regarding modeling technique; is there a reason why not a 0 to 2pi/(number lobes) and a radial symmetry by number of lobes? is that to avoid surface modeling lines? coming from a Catia V5 modeling experience. gap with a spline just irks me and probably is creating some odd tribology down stream.
I like how you say "distance ring", as opposed to "SPACER!!" @IvanMiranda
How To Mechatronics should be fined each time he missed an opportunity to say *SPACER.*
It was still a great video even though there wasn't enough SPACERs in it.
You are mechatronics Gladiator 💪
These cycloidal drive reduction drives are very interesting.
I wonder about their capacity work at increasing motor speed. Essentially driving the unit from the output shaft, to increase the drive of the input shaft.
An example would be a centrifugal supercharger where the input shaft might be driven to say 6000rpm, but the output might need to be 100,000rpm.
Great video. Nice testing experiments. 👍
I wish you would include cost for each version
you could add 2 more disks thinner and lighter at a 90 degree angle to the others for a superior longer lasting one.
How much did the CNC version order cost?
Its be interesting to see a mostly 3d printed housing, bearing cartridge etc but with a cnc input and output shaft and cyclodal disk. Try and reduce some of the mass of the cnc
Yeah, that's a good point. A combination of the two versions would be best solution for some DIY projects. The cycloidal disks are most important in this case I think and they can be made out of some metal material, in combination with some metal rollers.
I bet you would get different results if the motor was more secure. Those clamps still let the motor twist thus losing energy. Also a piece of steel instead of plywood should help 😉
You never stop to amaze us 👍👍👍
Thanks!
Good collab! I'm curious about how much a quote for those parts would total. I understand quotes are temporary for good reasons, but a ballpark would be nice.
jlcpcb > pcbway
@@JoeTaber About $700 for 15 pieces with DHL courier service.
@@PCBWay well, I submitted a quote for a set of parts. Guess that answers that. Ooof.
Was it expensive to get those parts manufactured by PCBWay ?
How can you tell the parts were "exactly the same as in the "project"? I haven't seen micrometer in your hand to check it:)
Cycloidal drives are super interesting, you should do this video format for a planetary gear drive build next. Keep going mate, great content and already subscribed : ]
Thank you and welcome!
Amazing mechanical design.... Thanks for the video !
Fill that gearbox with oil, see how much that will increase the torque. there must be signifcant friction with all those loose bushings.
does the 15% loss in output occurs as sound, vibration, and heating? if so, where in the mechanism is most of the loss occurring? to improve efficiency or at least to improve durability at speed under load, what kind of mitigation would be beneficial? Would cooling be necessary during prolonged use?
Very cool project, always fun to assemble your own cnc'd parts!
Just note that like Autodesk, Dassault Systemes has a history of offering "free" or "affordable" tools for "makers", then increasing the price as time goes along. It's not an offer that I would expect to last forever.
I wold really like to see a comparison with a planetary gear of the same reduction (probably needs to be 2-stage). At the same outside dimensions a planetary gear would be a beast.
Yeah, that would be an interesting comparison. I might make one. Cheers!
You should lubricate the bushings and test again. You're losing a fair amount to friction.
Could you do this with strain wave gear / harmonic drive?
Perhaps having the drives filled with some transmission fluid might help with the gear slipping/damage.
the measuring was a little bit weak compared to your overall effort
Love it
Hello, super cool proyect. quick question. what the cost of making the 3d printed version ?
What is the name of the device you used to measure at 0:29?
I'm amazed the wood beam didn't slip of the scale and smash into your knuckles
haha I've never thought about it. I guess it's all about experience. 😀
Great video ❤️… i have a question, how did you make that animation of the object splitting in many piece at timesstamp 0:47
I learned a lot - thank you! (And I love Solidworks)
Glad it was helpful!
This seems like aluminium vs plastic instead of milling and turning vs 3D printed as the title states... of course, they're all CNC machines.
Apologies if this has been answered already. How backdrivable is the cnc machined version? Thanks for this great work!
Помню этот редуктор ещё по советским альбомам редукторов, но только теперь понял как он работает.
You are back!
Yeah, I guess I'm back with each new video. 😅
Around throughout the video, you use the term "Interference fit". I believe the term that you were looking for is "Friction fit".
I wonder if with some patience, you could CNC the aluminum parts with one of those inexpensive 3018 CNCs?
Not strong enough for the appropriate speeds and feeds to get a good finish.
@@Shocker99 not to mention that a lot of the features in those parts would require a CNC lathe or some other 4/5 axis CNC machine and as far as I'm aware 4th/5th axis hobby CNC builds are rare and currently unable to produce parts like this (accuracy, holding forces, etc.)
Very interesting video! I enjoyed it but cringed at how often you misused “nevertheless”. Your use of “however” is correct most of the time though.
i think the backlash might also be because the pins are only fastened from one side of the disks
I think if that wooden arm slipped off the force meter we would never find out about it. It would be the end of this beautiful youtube chanel. Be safe out there.
hehe yeah, I guess you are right about this. :)
awesome build
Very nice design and presentation.
Thank you! Cheers!
Also, for these parts from PCBway, I'm curious, how much did this cost?
Amazing channel!! Great work!!
Thank you! Cheers!
How small of a reduction do you need to use to the able to back-drive the motor?
Can you characterize the thermal differences with extended use?
I know you did them both the same so you could test the material against eachother with the same dimensions but if someone wanted to make a strong 3d printed version, all you would have to do is make all the engagement points at least twice as thick.
That's right.
Can you get the same mechanical and electrical properties with 3D printed material?
Very educational video!
Fine job , thanks bro for sharing the details info 💕
What about the lubricant ?
Doesn't need ?
In case both CNC and 3D print are hybridized, what parts should be CNC machined? I think backrash and housing rigidity are important, so cycroid gears, bush housing, input shaft and output bush housing should be aluminum. Outercase, motormount, some sims, output basement can be printed. How about your opinion?
When you mix materials with very different thermal expansion coefficients, in a gear that is supposed to be quite precise and have low backlash, you are in for some adventure.
How much is it to order parts from PCBWay?
Fantastic effort I love it! :)
Thank you! Cheers!
Does the model currently up have the clearance built in you were talking about?
What is your idea on the maximum RPM's the input shaft can handle?
I would like to use a (powerful) BL motor, it easily runs at 10000 rpm.
Hi I’m not an engineer or scientist just a fan
After watching your video with commercials Very well done I applaud you…
Could this device replace the clockwork of my telescope mount in that it has minimal backlash?
Harmonic gearboxes are used on the more expensive mounts and have zero backlash.
Is it legal to use your gearbox design for commercial purpose.
I have a great application for those gearboxes. What about a motorized telescope mount? I'd love to have some ultra-low backlash, high-torque actuators to make one...
Maybe a flexure is better for small stuff
@@yelectric1893 a small...telescope?
@@chiraz111 Oh.. Youre right. I was assuming a little one with a 5" lens tops.
super cool, i'd like to make one as well.
compared to planetary gear, can it be comparable?
BTW. great video!
Thanks! Sure, it can be comparable, each have it's own pros and cons. I guess I could make a comparison video for those two types.
Интересная конструкция. Чем она лучше или хуже обычной планетарной передачи?
The housing can be simple cylinder, no need to make it fancy... The shafts around are fixed in place anyway.
That's true...
Love watching it!
I need a sprocket or something that can work with a motor and bicycle axle. For my e-bike build. In Florida