The hardest Ice Climb in Switzerland
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.พ. 2025
- Nicolas Preitner & Jon Murua
Beta Block Super, ED+ WI7
Kandersteg, Breitwangflue
300m of seriously overhanging ice
Extreme alpinism
Date: 8.3.2020
Gear used:
Petzl Sirocco Helmet: luna.r.lafamo....
Beal Ice Line Golden Dry 2x60m: luna.r.lafamo....
Petzl Nomic: luna.r.lafamo....
Petzl Dart: luna.r.lafamo....
La Sportiva G5X: luna.r.lafamo....
Mammut Zephir Alpine Harness: luna.r.lafamo....
Black Diamond Soloist Finger gloves: luna.r.lafamo....
GoPro Session 5: amzn.to/3tDt3z1
Petzl Reverso: luna.r.lafamo....
Black Diamond Spinner Leash: luna.r.lafamo....
Transcript:
Forgive me for this, I really struggle to pronounce the name of this route.
But what a route!
Beta Block Super!
A name to remember!
And a route to be repeated!
I rarely repeat routes because I like exploring, but this route...
... This route is to be repeated over an over again.
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I didn't know if I would ever dare with such a monster waterfall:
300 metres, level 7
Yes, level 7!
This is as hard as it gets!
Waterfalls tend to be vertical at most and it is not common to find overhanging ice.
Kandersteg in Switzerland however is famous for steep ice and mixed climbing.
And the sector Breitwangflue has some of the steppest routes in Europe; you might have heard of names like flying circus for example.
...
This season has been particularly bad for ice climbing in the northern Alps.
It has been very warm and many waterfalls did haven't formed.
There hasn't been much to climb in Kandersteg except for this sector.
I kept reading on social media reports of successful ascends and I was motivated.
I initially went to try Metro, a fantastic waterfall, level 6+ that forms inside a cave.
I went there last year, but I had to bail because it was too wet, too dangerous.
This year I had the hope I could remove the thorn.
During the approach I could see the blue ice on Beta Block Super and Crack Baby going all the way to the top.
Unfortunately, Metro was again too wet and I had to bail for the second time.
That was annoying, but at least I took advantage to check the conditions of other waterfalls with my own eyes.
Beta Block Super was in unbeatable conditions!
My partner didn't need much to motivate and we went the following weekend...
The beginning is at low altitude and it is often dry. I wasn't unsure about taking the skis, snowshoes or nothing.
Carrying the skis on the backpack and walking with ski boots is not fun, but we can save a lot of time if there is deep snow higher up.
It wasn't the case and we regret the choice, but it wasn't a big deal.
There are 1000 metres of elevation gain during the approach which takes about an hour and a half.
As we started touching the snow it started getting colder. It is a North Face and it rarely gets the sun.
When we arrived, there were plenty of people in Crack Baby but only a couple in Beta Block Super. We took our time while getting ready to give some space between the climbers, but another couple arrived in that time.
I'm ice climbing, it is not good to climb below other climbers. It is dangerous as we break the ice with the axes and the ice can easily hit the climbers below.
We sort-of climbed in parallel, but I was often above the other climber dropping chunks of ice.
The first pitches are not very hard comparing to what was waiting for us. Level 5/5+ I would say. There were some steep sections, but not very long.
We actually connected the first 2 pitches simul-climbing part of it.
...
Kandersteg is such a beautiful area. Thanks for taking us along on your climb! The area has so many beautiful ice lines. I was there in Feb 2017 (maybe 2016, I am too old to remember!). It was an unusually warm winter and the ice was falling out. Fortunately I brought skis along with ice gear! I would love to get back there again. Thanks again!
Sounds like a blast i also enjoyed this video very much. I would love to go here ive done mt rainier a lot since i am from the town right next to it. Other than that i have been to denali 2 times and everest 2 times from the south but didnt reach the summit the first time. I never would have thought i could go there i spent 10 years in the army saving all of my deployment money dreaming of going.
Awesome video! Loved your narration! “What do you mean by straight forward” had me laughing! What an incredible route!
Super nice! Thanks for taking us along to this amazing climb :)
I'm already so pumped for next season!
Bro watching your technique improve with each video is awesome!
Well executed Jon, looks amazing, well done!
Great video Jon! Keep up the good content. I love the enthusiasm you comment the climbs with :)
Great climbing content! Your narration is what makes this better than most climbing related content you see out there - especially in ice climbing/mtn'eering
Keep it up 'n climb on!
Fredrik / Romsdalen, NO
im pumped just watching
God i love these videos
Que pasada,una maravilla...👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻...hay que apuntarse esto postpandemia👍🏻
Amazing
I want to see your partner climbing, It seems he's having a wonderful technique!!
He's a superb climber indeed!
Check my other videos, he appears in Pinocchio, Scotch on the rocks and Ice climbing by the seracs of Argentiere glacier
Guapísimo… GASSS . Saludos Maquinas.
"What do you mean by straightforward?" 🤣
nice ice, nice video :)
Be careful swinging into the ice right next to your anchor like at 12:10. That can weaken the ice around your protection which is no bueno! Nice video btw.
Thanks for the tip 👍🏻
gratulation freue mich fuer euch
Soo Good🤟
Impresionante 🤔👌👌💪💪
como mola que te monten los largos eh??
Super Great Alpinists!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Best Wishes.
Awsome! I’m coming to work in Switzerland next winter, any tips on finding climbing partners?
Camptocamp or Facebook groups are good sources, but there is nothing like meeting like minded people in the local climbing gym
What did you use to back up the ice thread on the penultimate abseil? Awesome climbing 🧗♀️
I doubt we backed it up, but we should back it up with an ice screw for the leader
@@jonmurua thanks for your reply and thanks for posting this video
Is the orange helmet made of styrofoam?
And why do you have two biners on your daisy?
@@itrstt66 the helmet is the Petzl Sirocco.
I use two biners in my personal anchor as I often use it to connect two bolts and I use the personal anchor as the anchor itself.
@@jonmurua thank you very much
whos leading？
Mr. Preitner
@@jonmurua leading wi6+ soooo bold!!!!
@@BOCHEN-lg2ys th-cam.com/video/g4ErjiEzBtg/w-d-xo.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE
Looks like you got it at exactly the right time, ice looks like it had great bite! Also many hooks, but damn, that's a serious overhang there! Impressive!
Quite a dickmove of the third team, though... People need to respect ice climbing etiquette. 3 teams in a waterfall like this is just too many. You guys were second and waiting your turn, they just show up and just start climbing...? 'on va se tenir compagnie"... Not cool! Move on and do something else, you were too late, first come first serve...
This season another team came right after us, without waiting even a bit. Their lead took a fall and pulled my ropes (also on lead) in the process. He was fine, but if I would have fallen, I don't even want to imagine!
It was indeed in great conditions. Such a pleasure to climb!
To be fair, the third team got ready with the crampons on just before us and they let us pass them later.
We managed the situation with good mountaineering friendship.
Although, we all suffered from falling ice chunks. To be avoided in the future!
dude you have such bad technique it is cringy to watch you rip the ice of this magnificent cascade. Please be less brutal and learn to climb delicately