Black Diamond Presents: Will Gadd Takes On Helmcken Falls with Natural Gear
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 พ.ย. 2018
- BD Athlete Will Gadd has been putting Black Diamond gear to the test for over 20 years. He was an early proponent of our revolutionary carbon fiber ice tools-now known as the Cobra-and has been questing to the top of ice formations around the world with prototype ice gear ever since. From climbing Niagara Falls with prototype ice pitons, to going big in Greenland with extra-long special-made ice screws, Gadd is always willing to put it all on the line for the sake of adventure … and invaluable feedback to the designers and engineers here at BD. Recently, his latest hare-brained idea involved multiple innovations-as well as his own Canadian ingenuity-and was captured in this film. Check out Gadd’s latest gear testing exploits as he takes the formidable spray ice of Helmcken Falls … with natural gear.
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Thank you BD! Will is a treasure 😊
Leave no trace meets badassery. Congrats BD for supporting this.
Very cool! The Canadian Rockies are unbeatable when it comes to ice routes - great little film!
Will is a beast.
Just....plain.....nuts.
Damn this is awesome
Pretty good too I think! What a quote
Who needs acid or DMT, when you can just climb spray ice on natural "protection."
me
epic
Good for You Guys. We do not want to die, so if our "skills" allow us to climb without placing bolts, or other permanent anchors great! Anytime we can leave the natural environment, in its natural condition, it is good. "Way to go!"
This just made reddit front page. Neato
FA on pre placed natural protection
that should be the exact title. great achievement, falsely titled.
@@kazo0ie yeah dont get me wrong, still ballsy as fuck and harder than i can ever hope to climb.
That was scary to watch
The snow is too soft. Too much effort for so little reward, I think.
exactly.. good luck placing any of that on lead. fun little video, but a little gimmicky to be called climbing
You might want to research Helmcken Falls before stating that it's not climbing.
@@TobyGadd - I used to host the Reel Rock Film Tour for a number of years, including the first year Helmcken was climbed. I know that probably most of this gear was placed using the bolts that were already installed. How else does all that natural, equalized protection get pre-placed safely? I am seriously asking, so would be happy if someone would point out a different way. So the ethic is... place some bolts in the summer, come back in the winter and use those bolts to install natural protection, while aiding up those bolts?
@@treopolis13 I wasn't there when Will and Sarah climbed it, so I don't know all of the particulars. But the point of the video is to document Will's efforts as he tries to figure out how to climb spray ice without bolts--which is pretty damn cool. As you can see, he tried various prototype anchors, which unfortunately failed--so he improvised with what he had to see if he could make some safe natural anchors in that environment. It might look a little gimmicky and awkward, but isn't that how most new things start? Having never climbed Helmcken, or anything approaching that level of difficulty, I'm pretty damn sure that it's real climbing though. As you may recall during your time hosting a film tour, Will basically pioneered climbing difficult spray ice. Maybe you should reach out to him and get his thoughts on ethics, pioneering new techniques, and climbing.
Preplaced gear is goofy, might as well TR it
This gent seems a bit too “out there”...fool hardy?
Nice video, good job.
But the rules are still the same ... when you didn't place your pro on lead it doesn't count as an accent.
Tell that to Adam Ondra! You're correct to say that the style could still be improved upon, but they have been completely open about the ethics of the ascent from the beginning and that's what really counts - if anyone out there is feeling strong, I'm sure they could climb it ground-up and drill the V-threads as they go...
Honestly, people like y'all are the reason I could never get into trad. So much fussing and gatekeeping. If you climbed it you climbed it. So long as you're honest about how you did it, I don't care.