Yeah - truly a hidden gem. Thank you for not making everyone suffer through long intros and summaries at the end. You get right to the point tell us what we need to know in a pleasant quick environment. Thank you so much for launching my career.
One of the things I did during Covid lockdown was learn how to properly use a flash. For me, the big thing was realizing that when you introduce flashes, your exposure triangle becomes more like an exposure square, in the sense that now you can set ISO, aperture, and exposure, and use the flash level to expose the shot. This video does a great job driving that point home. The other game changing thing I learned was how to use gels to change the color of the flash to match ambient lighting. I always wondered why my flash shots had funky colors when combining flash with indoor tungsten lighting. A simple CTO gel on my flash blended the flash perfectly with indoor lighting. Set the WB of your camera to tungsten, and prepare to be blown away!
I just bought an old Novatron 240 kit, looks very lightly used. Can't wait to start testing close subject photography at home environment with umbrellas :)
Having always shot speed lights which are completely different I was considering getting a strobe but kept trying to associate it with a f-stop. This video is great in clearing my mind and not getting hung up on what I am use to doing, thanks so much, just subscribed to your channel.- Jeff
Love your videos your enthusiasm is really great and your so easy to follow with how you explain everything One thing I’d like to know is in a small studio set up with max shutter speed and flash on lowest power as far back as possible and you have your diffuser on your main strobe and your trying to use wide open aperature what else can I do with the main strobe to reduce its strength ? My workaround was to put a variable nd on the lens and ran test shots with the strengths to see what worked best So I’d like to know what else I could do ? Cheers
Another great video! Quick question, How can I match my pre-shot color temp on my camera with the color temp after I take the picture? My color temp is orange pre-shot and perfect after I snap the photo
This was a great video. I do have a question; when using a light meter, do you point it toward the light or the camera? I've seen it done both ways on other TH-cam videos. How do I explain this to another photographer? Thanks so much.
You want an average reading between the highlight and the shadow. So you place the meter at the subject and point it back towards the camera. If you point it at the light it will raise your exposure by a stop or more and your shadows will be way too dark. That is how I have done it for years and it has always worked well.
It is very difficult to focus in a darker room for most cameras. I turn on the modeling light and it gives me enough light but does not over power the strobe.
This was such a great tutorial, I have these lights and this has given me much more confidence. Need to get a light meter also now :) WIth the slower shutter speeds will this pose a problem with live people and the risk of the model moving?
We can all admit one thing- learning flash is just brutal. I took a studio lighting course years back, and all the concepts made total sense. The hard part is when youy click the shutter and...wait...is this right? then move the light...umm...move it again. Ok this is good. Move it again...oh wait...argh. Then you bounce it, then you use a brolly box, then an umbrella.... Then you throw your hands up in frustration because you need to know this for a shoot... a shoot THAT IS OUTSIDE. aarghrghgrrghrghrghhgrghr
You have to use a flash trigger to sync the strobe with the camera. Here is a link for the Westcott Universal Trigger: www.fjwestcott.com/products/fj-x3-m-wireless-universal-flash-trigger?_pos=2&_psq=flash+&_ss=e&_v=1.0&sca_ref=2860291.nGJy3bTrXJ
With a strobe or flash trigger. Here is a link to the Westcott version: www.fjwestcott.com/products/fj-x3-m-wireless-universal-flash-trigger?_pos=1&_psq=universal+tri&_ss=e&_v=1.0&sca_ref=2860291.nGJy3bTrXJ
![เป็นไปได้ไหม - WanMai [Performance Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Eh5hItD4Mr0/mqdefault.jpg)
Yeah - truly a hidden gem. Thank you for not making everyone suffer through long intros and summaries at the end. You get right to the point tell us what we need to know in a pleasant quick environment. Thank you so much for launching my career.
Thank you. Glad you found it helpful. Good luck with your photography!
Thanks for the help in learning this
I have been scouring TH-cam looking for someone who could explain this exact thing to me. Thank you!!
You sir are one of the hidden gems on youtube, with all the fanboy BS and gear nonsense, you show what is important in photography, bravo 🙏
I appreciate that! Thank you so much!
One of the things I did during Covid lockdown was learn how to properly use a flash. For me, the big thing was realizing that when you introduce flashes, your exposure triangle becomes more like an exposure square, in the sense that now you can set ISO, aperture, and exposure, and use the flash level to expose the shot. This video does a great job driving that point home. The other game changing thing I learned was how to use gels to change the color of the flash to match ambient lighting. I always wondered why my flash shots had funky colors when combining flash with indoor tungsten lighting. A simple CTO gel on my flash blended the flash perfectly with indoor lighting. Set the WB of your camera to tungsten, and prepare to be blown away!
That was a great goal during covid. Glad you were able to master your strobes!
I just bought an old Novatron 240 kit, looks very lightly used. Can't wait to start testing close subject photography at home environment with umbrellas :)
Brilliant thank you I am a newbie to flash/strobe and this made so much sense
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
You have the best thumbnails 😆 Thanks for all the great content!
Thanks! I appreciate that!
New to using strobes. Great video! Thanks!
Glad you enjoyed it. Good luck with your strobe lighting!
I love watching your videos. I always learn something.👍
Glad to hear it! I appreciate that!
Having always shot speed lights which are completely different I was considering getting a strobe but kept trying to associate it with a f-stop. This video is great in clearing my mind and not getting hung up on what I am use to doing, thanks so much, just subscribed to your channel.- Jeff
Great to hear. Thank for subscribing Jeff!
Really helpful tutorial, thanks for sharing! 📸
Glad you found it helpful. Thanks for your feedback!
Love your videos your enthusiasm is really great and your so easy to follow with how you explain everything
One thing I’d like to know is in a small studio set up with max shutter speed and flash on lowest power as far back as possible and you have your diffuser on your main strobe and your trying to use wide open aperature what else can I do with the main strobe to reduce its strength ?
My workaround was to put a variable nd on the lens and ran test shots with the strengths to see what worked best
So I’d like to know what else I could do ? Cheers
Another great video! Quick question, How can I match my pre-shot color temp on my camera with the color temp after I take the picture?
My color temp is orange pre-shot and perfect after I snap the photo
I'm always learning from TSL!
Glad to hear it! Thanks for your comment!
Absolutely right. You are all knowledgeable. Maybe one day I can actually teach others 😅🤷🏼
Thanks Dennis! Appreciate your comment!
When you choose 5.6 for an aperarture how do you know to match the Strobe power. You dialed down, just confused how to match that? thanks
Doesn't HighSpeed Sync allow higher Shutter Speeds ?
This was a great video. I do have a question; when using a light meter, do you point it toward the light or the camera? I've seen it done both ways on other TH-cam videos. How do I explain this to another photographer? Thanks so much.
I was going to ask the exact same question. I know when you have two lights a key and fill. You point the light meter to the fill with the dome in.
You won't get an answer till he asks someone
You want an average reading between the highlight and the shadow. So you place the meter at the subject and point it back towards the camera. If you point it at the light it will raise your exposure by a stop or more and your shadows will be way too dark. That is how I have done it for years and it has always worked well.
@@TheSlantedLens thanks alot for responding. Do you us the same method when using a key and fill light?
sorry for a dumb question, but when it's dark in the room, how do you get your camera to focus on subject's eyes?
It is very difficult to focus in a darker room for most cameras. I turn on the modeling light and it gives me enough light but does not over power the strobe.
This was such a great tutorial, I have these lights and this has given me much more confidence. Need to get a light meter also now :)
WIth the slower shutter speeds will this pose a problem with live people and the risk of the model moving?
You can go to 1/30th of a second without any problem but after that you will need to ask your talent to stay very still.
Very good tutorial on flash photography. I do have to ask why the meter was pointed at the camera and not the source of light (flash).
Because when you point it at the camera you get a shadow/highlight reading. If you point it at the light it will be overexposed.
Ah so that was the reason. Thank you.
He is wrong if you point it at the light it reads all the power then you adjust the power to bring it down to the f stop that you require
What about the Ad200 pro
Ps. Do you have light meter recommendations? Mine kicked the bucket
Any Sekonic meters work great. I would recommend the Sekonic LiteMaster Pro L-478D-U Light Meter. Here is the link: bhpho.to/3Z5ZKS8
Don't you point the dome of meter to the light ( camera right in your case) and not to the camera?
We can all admit one thing- learning flash is just brutal. I took a studio lighting course years back, and all the concepts made total sense. The hard part is when youy click the shutter and...wait...is this right?
then move the light...umm...move it again. Ok this is good. Move it again...oh wait...argh. Then you bounce it, then you use a brolly box, then an umbrella....
Then you throw your hands up in frustration because you need to know this for a shoot...
a shoot THAT IS OUTSIDE. aarghrghgrrghrghrghhgrghr
LOL. There is therapy for Strobe frustrated photographers. It's called window light.
what if the strobes are flashing too late? I will take a photo and the camera takes a photo before the flash
You have to use a flash trigger to sync the strobe with the camera. Here is a link for the Westcott Universal Trigger: www.fjwestcott.com/products/fj-x3-m-wireless-universal-flash-trigger?_pos=2&_psq=flash+&_ss=e&_v=1.0&sca_ref=2860291.nGJy3bTrXJ
Made it more complicated than need be
Just showing the possibilities. Thanks for watching!
not sure why you said after 250 shutter, the camera won't allow.
I think he said only the Sony A1 could do 400.
Because when the camera detects a trigger on the hot shoe most cameras won't allow the shutter to go faster than their strobe sync speed.
HOW are you triiggering your strobes when testing with light meter ?
With a strobe or flash trigger. Here is a link to the Westcott version: www.fjwestcott.com/products/fj-x3-m-wireless-universal-flash-trigger?_pos=1&_psq=universal+tri&_ss=e&_v=1.0&sca_ref=2860291.nGJy3bTrXJ
“Learning to use a flash meter” takes the guess work out of the equation”…
So true. Thanks for watching and commenting!