Your Camera Settings in the Studio Don't Matter 😮
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ก.ย. 2024
- Today I’m going to show you what your camera settings in the studio mean and the fact that they’re not quite as important as you think they are.
The single most question I get asked all the time is “what were yoru camera settings for that shot”? It’s an understandable question, you’re wondering how to replicate the shot exactly down to the settings… but do they entirely matter?
Let me explain…
The 3 elements that affect your images in the studio are:
👉 Aperture
👉 Shutter speed
👉 ISO
✅ Shutter speed
Even though we’re talking about the studio, let's imagine for a second that you’re shooting outside and adjusting your shutter speed. When you adjust it, your exposure changes. A slower shutter speed lets in more light, a faster shutter speed lets in less light, etc.
However it doesn’t work like that in the studio. You can (almost) forget about your shutter speed entirely (within reason). What you should be focusing on is your camera’s sync speed. This is the highest speed in which your camera can use flash before seeing your black bars in the shot for example.
✨ A good rule of thumb is simply don’t exceed your sync speed! ✨
What about slower shutter speeds such as if I shoot at 1/125th or 1/200th of a second? None of that will affect the exposure. Where it WILL matter is if you shoot at such a slow shutter speed (for example 1/8th of a second) what will happen is that ambient light will probably start to show and if you’re using flash in the studio you don’t need to shoot at that slow of a speed to begin with.
✨ Stick with a go-to shutter speed of something like 1/200th of a second, set it and forget it. ✨
In the video I’m going to show you how our shutter speed is going to effect whether our ‘window light’ demo changes our shot. 👉 Check it out at 3:40
✅ ISO
ISO basically works the same way as it does on location. The ISO is the camera’s sensitivity to light. Me personally, I like shooting around 200 or 400 so that I get a nice clean file. But what if the light source you’re using isn’t kicking out as much light? Such as a speed light? That is where having a higher ISO can effectively change your exposure. Now this is very subjective and can depend on your camera when you start to see noise in your image by upping your ISO. I also might drop my ISO down if I see that an image is too bright.
✅ Aperture
So aperture affects exposure but it also affects depth of field, same as on location. If you use a wider aperture in the studio it will let more light in but also might not be useful for the photo in general in terms of depth of field. For example shooting on a solid background. However if you have a textured background or scene, that is where you may want to play with the aperture to get a bit of a softer background. In which case I would go from something like F/11 to perhaps F/2.8 to soften the scene. It’s all about your preference.
✨ The takeaway is that the aperture you use in the studio is not as noticeable in the studio as it would be on location. ✨
So now you know not to sweat your camera settings as much as you may be and not worry every time you step into the studio. There are a number of other things that make the image, the styling, the lighting etc so if you have one less thing to worry about you can focus (no pun intended) on what matters most, making the image!
While the title of this video is “camera settings don’t matter” we know that they obviously DO matter, but not to the extent you probably thought before. There are obviously exceptions to this rule but in THIS demonstration you can see how little the settings affect the outcome, especially when demonstrating equivalent exposure. (7:09)
👇 I hope you found this video useful! Drop a comment below and let me know if this helps put your mind at ease for the future in the studio!
🔥 To learn more about lighting definitely check out my class Master Studio Lighting: lindsayadler.p...
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This is something I’ve been trying to talk about but you explain it so much better than I could ever have 😅
You are too funny, but thank you. xo
Love your vids too mate, you make total sense and your wife is stunning
@@p77vfc lol such a strange comment, but nice.
@@lindsayadlerphoto one day I hope to meet you. If you ever have a second out of your day to leave a critique on my photos @zrowedaartist it would mean the world to me
@@lindsayadlerphoto He was referring to Manny’s comment. This is a great video and very valid point you make!
You're not just a talented photographer but you're also a talented teacher. You explain stuff in so much detail but at the same time you make it so clear for everyone.
Hi lindsay, napakahusay at napakagaling mo, humahanga ako sa mga litrato mo.
Great to see someone addressed this in a video so effectively.
I try to explain it to people by saying it’s like opening a gate and letting a horse in, once the horse is in (obviously the flash is an analogy for the horse) it doesn’t matter how long you stand around with the gate open.. the horse is already in the field!
That said I once did some tests in my studio with no ambient light whatsoever and a single strobe/modifier and as I went down from the classic 1/200th sec into the 30/50th sec setting you could clearly see the white walls of the studio and various bits of furniture that were invisible at 1/200th start to gently show up.
Sent the results to a friend of mine who is one of the leading commercial photographers in the world and he said he didn’t even want to think about it as it did his head in!
😳😂
Lindsay is an amazing teacher and communicator. You are guaranteed to learn by words and example. Bravo!
Thank you so much for the kind words!
I love getting notified of your videos! Your makeup is FLAWLESS as usual! You really do have a gift to facilitate complicated concepts and Ideas and processes in a simplified, unintimidating manner. Thank you for existing, you have made a photographer out of me!
*blush* thanks so much for the kind words. Glad that you enjoy the videos. :)
This is genuinely one of the best videos I’ve seen explaining anything…. And I’m an experienced photographer lol but i still feel like I learned something! Great stuff
Thank you so much for the kind words! :)
took the words right out of my finger tips!
I've been shooting for 11 years and today I finally learn about this for the first time. It's been a trial and error all this time (sorta... you always keep learning and trying new things and I'm glad I'm still doing that because it led to learn this important fundamental).
Thank you!
So happy to hear that I can help!
Saw your sample workshop classes. Awesome!!
A very good and important tutorial, especially for the many hobby photographers who try studio photography with their speedlites in the living room.
Especially with the explanations and examples of the influence of a significantly longer exposure time than the synch speed, in my opinion it is important to say that the "Profoto D2" used is a TTL stobe and is apparently also used in TTL mode, as far as I can judge this with my limited knowledge, and that is the reason why, for example, a changed exposure time has no influence on the illumination by the flash, because the TTL mode always provides the right amount of light, which can be seen on the left half of the model's face. (Or have I overlooked something here or, unfortunately, still not understood it correctly?)
I`m living in Germany and in many German-language tutorials on the topic of studio lighting especially with speedlites the TTL mode is always advised against because from their point of view this is really not a mode for professionals but only for amateurs and beginners who are not familiar with the topic.
These German "experts" also say that also in the studio when shooting portraits for instance you should only take photos with the aperture wide open because of the strong bokeh and in their opinion only photos with a lot of bokeh are really good photos and therefore f1.4 is the most popular aperture of many German studio portrait and model photographers at least if you want to believe their tutorials ... but the photos in their portfolios on the internet usually don't look like they were just all photographed only with f1.4.
You're the best! Quick, easy to understand tutorials WITH examples that help everything stick in my brain.
Thank you so much!
This is why (for my studio work) i am investing more to lights than upgrading camera
I don't know if it's just me, but I can't focus on what you're saying( even though you're explaining it sooo clear), because I am simply mesmerised by your beautiful face 🥰😍😍😍. It's as if I get lost...
One of the best photography mentors ever. I really do love your work and the value that you bring out there. 💗💗💗
lol omg thank you, too kind!
This is one of the most important photography videos on TH-cam
I concur.
you are very articulate. Thank you for sharing this information!
Awesome video as usual. You quickly passed over a lesson I wish I learned a long time ago. I shoot with speed lights frequently in the studio. I can’t tell you how many times I have over heated speed lights and had to quit until they cooled down. I was so fearful of raising my iso. Everybody always teaches keep iso at 100. So my speed lights were firing at full power. So just to repeat Lindsey’s tip… when shooting with speed lights in studio boost that iso as much as your camera can handle to get a clean image. Then you won’t over heat your speed lights all the time. Thanks Lindsey. 😀 📸
Totally! Also with today's cameras raising your ISO isn't going to necessarily increase the amount of artifacts like it used to!
Thanks Lindsay, you really light up our understanding with this walk through :D
Very much appreciated Lindsay! Very informative! Good luck with all your projects!
Thank you!
Clarification, ISO is nothing but a name for an old artificial standard used for film rolls. Today ISO is digital, and highly varies from camera to camera. Furthermore high ISO doesn't cause noise, nor it means anything. Especially not "camera sensitivity" there is no such thing. A sensor captures photons, it has no sensitivity. Let me explain further:
Digital ISO in modern cameras is nothing more but a post processing adjustment, exactly the same as the exposure sliders in post processing software like Photoshop and Lightroom, except it's done in camera. It's digital GAIN. Similar like when you simply bump up the volume on a bad audio source. It won't get clearer, just louder. Or if you zoom in on a small image, it won't infinitely get sharper it will just increase in size.
Noise comes solely from LACK OF LIGHT. Photons. A sensor in complete darkness will have "noise" even if you take a shot of a cap for example without a lens. But you'll see a pitch black image, right? Well yes, but if you bump up the slider for exposure and voila the noise appears. You successfully bumped up the gain, to actually see the noise itself. Noise is inherently there. That's because the sensor works on electricity, which has quantum fluctuations, and that produces background noise, that's the way of our universe. Similar to the white noise hum on a radio when there is no station selected. No audible "signal" yet it's not nothing, it's not silence, it's white noise.
Now if there is sufficient data to "overwrite" that noise AKA photons in this case for a camera, noise "disappears" it actually gets more translucent if that makes sense. If you don't bump the gain you won't see it. Like if you hear a radio station but it's not 100% on the right frequency, you'll hear music but there will be noise in the background.
That's why you see no difference at iso 800 or iso 100 in studio environment. The light is literally the same. Thus the noise must be the same. It can't show trough, because there is always sufficient data.
Now if you shot her without the light it's a different thing entirely. Now there is less photons, and less data captured by the sensor. So artificially bumping the gain to say ISO 3200 will result in visible noise. But try this take a shot in the dark with ISO 100. And then a shot with ISO 3200. ISO 3200 is 5 stops of light more. Now go in Photoshop and bump the ISO 100 image exposure slider up by 5 stops. The ISO 3200 shot and the ISO 100 shot with upped gain will look identical, just proving that ISO is non relevant.
To get rid of the noise, you need more light, if there is no possibility of getting more light, (like a bigger sensor or a better lens) noise is what you'll have to settle with.
That only happens with certain modern sensors that are ISO invariant. i.e. You can freely change ISO in post and it behaves like you described. Since nearly the entire world uses Sony sensors which are ISO invariant, this holds true. However some Canon sensors are still not ISO invariant.
@@professionalpotato4764Yes, and for a small amount of cameras because of ISO variant sensors you lose *some* detail if you alter exposure in post. Not a big deal really. Still it is digital gain and has absolutely nothing to do with actual noise or "sensor sensitivity". Noise still comes from lack of light, not high ISO values. And like I said it's incorrect to say a sensor is more "sensitive" at high ISO as that is pure bogus. It WAS sensitivity of FILM though. As the crystals used in film were physically larger and reacted more to light, thus were more sensitive to light. So you got larger "noise" instead of more noise. Today we call it grain and even add it to images to get that retro look, that's why digital looks very different. It's simple causality, one causes the other, but the other doesn't affect the first. Low light will make you raise ISO, but high ISO will not cause noise or ruin an image if it has sufficient light. In her example ISO 100 and ISO 800 look identical. That wouldn't change regardless of sensors construction, it depends on the light source. ISO 800 has not a single spec of more noise because the same light was used and the same exposure was achieved, she acknowledges this. This would work as long as the photo is not overblown and data is not lost. If a sensor is digital ISO is really irrelevant. With film this would be a completely different story. The ISO 800 film would have large grain present at all times, because of large crystals while ISO 100 film would look sharper, simply because the film rolls are physically different.
And to hear professional photographers use bad terminology and perpetuate a myth is bad enough in itself. It's been 20+ years now since digital took over and people still perpetuate misinformation. Camera manufacturers are not helping with their confusing naming conventions either.
Many who are new to photography don't know what is ISO and influential photographers should do proper research if they're trying to actually teach others.
Thanks a lot Lindsay, for your great, accurate, more details, comprehensive teaching.. finally I really understood how the aperture , shutters, and ISO iworks,. Thank you for your time and knowledge...
You're welcome! Thanks for watching! :D
You're very welcome!
Love going over basic's it's good to refresh the mind, and can i just say how lovely you look today Lindsay. Keep them video's coming .
My university has one of your book about model shooting, and I have read it in my university's library, and it helps me a lot
That's very flattering to hear! Glad to know that it's helped you. :)
Hi Lindsay. I met you all be it very briefly when you visited NZ for the conference, and of course, seen your work on CreativeLive way before that too. Great to see your teachings on youtube. You rock 😀 Thanks for sharing.
Thank you so much for the kind words! ;)
Well done! Very informative and well presented. Thank you
Sharpness depends on the higher F number? Like F11 ?
And also while shooting 5 ppl together is it the same?
Where should I focus when shooting 5 ppl together
Gears I use -canon 80d , 50mm lens 1.8 , profotob10, silver umbrella
The middle of the lens aperture is usually considered sharpest (like f8 or f11) on most lenses, but to be honest a lot of lenses these days are pretty darn sharp throughout-- especially the canon RF lenses. So honestly it depends. With 5 people you will want to make sure there isn't too much depth -- aka too many layers of people. Keep everyone's face on the same plane. Be sure to check out my creativeLIVE class on photographing groups for more.
@@lindsayadlerphoto thank you 😊
Amazing video! I learn so much in every one of your videos. But I love the fall off though. Im just teasing you, i understand that its all personal preference. 😉😃☺️
finally someone said it!! :D
also this meets me at a perfect timing, as i'm about to start teaching myself - and now i'm pondering for 5 minutes already WHY people ask about camera settings, and what to actually answer to them
I totally get why people ask but there are soo sooo many aspects to photography that settings aren't the main thing to be focused on (no pun intended lol.
@@lindsayadlerphoto
In tutorials about the studio and flash lighting there does not seem to be any more important information for many hobby photographers than the camera settings used by professional photographers.
Lindsay always drops gems.
Not a professional photographer here. So my problem is when im shooting in a studio similar situation. There is good light but blacks are too black and can’t see detail. Shooting with canon 7D
I understood everything you explained. I don't shoot much studio work at all, but I do shoot headshots from time to time and this was really helpful. I'm going to have to experiment a lot and have fun doing it. Thanks you!
I'm happy to help! :)
This is the best video I have ever seen explaining this to me. 🙌🏻
Thanks so much!
You explained everything I needed to hear very clearly and concise! Definitely going to use this knowledge next week at my job! :)
Truly enlightening-you’ve just solved something that caused me major headaches-thank you 🙏🏻
So happy to hear that! :D
The way you explain this is so clear and in detail thank you so much for all of your wonderful videos!
Wow what an amazing tutorial. Flash photography is intimidating because not only do you have to understand theory like light and distance, you need the hands on experience. I'm trying to move beyond trial and error with studio lighting. Still using speedlites and modifiers because of budget. A light meter helped take some guesswork out as well as modeling light.
So glad you enjoyed it! :)
Great insight, thank you 🙏🏽
I find that wide open in the studio can be quite distracting as sometimes only 1 eye is in focus and there is a lot of detail loss in earrings and clothes. Unless it's specific a shallow depth of field shot which is rate, I rarely shoot below f8, to make sure the image is clean and in focus. It's just my opinion. Outside it can be different as the shallow dept can be used more creatively with continuous light and varying background
Background softening can always be done in post-production if needed, but getting detail back from an oversoft image is not easily possible.
Wow, your B&W image of her turned out great.
Exactly, also with flash powers, for example, godox ad300pro and ad600pro is 1 light stop difference.
Lindsay explained it very easy to understand!
Cant thank you enough for this info Lindsay. You have always explained in a very understandable and fun way all this lighting thing lol.. thank you once again. I hope one day to shake your hand and thank you in person. Stay well. Blessings.
Thank you so much for the kind words and watching! :)
Bravo! Thank you, Lindsay. This was a tremendous help.
oh god, I was losing it! Thank you so much!!
im not a Wedding photographer and my market is so jacked up, i dont get a lot of Portrait work either so i didnt go to WPPI a couple of weeks ago but i SO WOULD LOVE to shoot with you...
It's a very competitive market. The best advice I can give is to practice your craft and cater things to what people want. Stand above the crowd! :D
Lighting 101, really well explained and demonstrated. Awesome.
Thanks so much!
thank you so much. I subscribed and liked it. Without those who know, those who do not know would always be in the dark.
Thank you!
Thanks for another great presentation and for bringing clarity to the photographic process. I never knew of the term "equivalent exposure." However, prior to watching this video I conducted the same experience and realized that I had a couple of options available depending on how I set my variables within the exposure triangle.
This was a great explanation of why the camera setting don't matter! Thank you for this great insight!
So glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you so much Lindsay. This was very helpful.
Yes. Thank you for saying this. If I ever inquire about a photo by someone else I always ask what the camera and lens is because that makes more sense than the exposure settings. Great video! (also, coincidentally, off to find out what lens you used here, just for curiosity's sake haha)
You are such an amazing teacher. Thank you!
Ms. Adler, you are the Light Goddess. Thanks for sharing!
lol thank you
This is superuseful! Thank you Lindsay
Welcome! :)
But I think aperture can change the details in focus.. wider aperture can separate the details of the nose from d eyes. Because it has depth.
The narrow aperture can show you more details both nose and eyeball.
Just try it and think something I am saying. Use f1.4 and use f11 and see what is the difference in your models face specifically in her nose and eyes.
But overall, I really appreciate and like this content.. you really nailed it. Hats off to you!
I've been doing this a while, I think I know what settings work for me by now. ;)
Correct me if I'm wrong but your shutter speed does matter if you're trying to stop motion say in someone jumping or moving clothing.
not in the studio, no. That would be your flash duration-- I have another video about that.
Very well explained. I would add that too slow a shutter speed would also affect motion blur (intentional or not) in your captured image. It took me a while to understand the camera setting conundrum. :)
Thank you!
Thank you for this quick video 📸
You're welcome! :)
Great video Lindsey, thank you for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Hope to see another video end of the month or beginning. Great work as always.
Thanks!
Camera settings do matter......a lot!!! You explained it well, but you should of said it differently. Place your lights where you want them, then there's two ways to determain exposure. 1) make test shots 2) use a flash meter.
All lights set up, make a test shot. If one light is too bright, you can do four things: adjusts the distance of the flash to the subject, decrease the power of the flash, decrease the iso, or use a smaller f/stop. You can see the results on the screen in back of the camera, or if hooked to a computer, on the computer screen.
With a flash meter, simply place the lights where you want them, then take a reading from the main light first. whatever the meter says, that's what your setting is. Then take a shot and the exposure should be correct. You can see the results on the screen in back of the camera or on the computer. However if you want a smaller f/stop, you can move the flash closer. Then adjust the other lights accordingly.
Now when using electronic flash, the shutter speeds matters, but very little. When the shutter opens, the flash fires, and it fires at 1/5000 sec or faster. So the flash will fire, strike the subject, and return exposing the film/sensor before the shutter closes, at one second or a thousanth of a second, it doesn't matter. However though, you can't go past 1/250 or whatever your camera's shutter speed sync is. BUT, if you use too slow a shutter speed, you may record some of the room light (as you did say) But now you can't use a speed faster then the sync. You need to explain focal plane and leaf shutters, both are important
If you want to see an explanation like yours but more in-depth, check out lindsayadler.photo/msl. I have content like this and much more thorough. Feel free to enjoy it!
That was spot on! If you want to avoid shadows on the backdrop doing portraits,is closest distance six feet?
It depends on the type of modifier as well as the angle of the light. but 6 feet is good. x
Three things you failed to mention. 1. When you are shooting at speed like 1/60 you cannot have model move much. Or else it will result in blurry picture. 2. When you increase ISO to compensate light, you are also increasing the noise. 3. If depth of field doesn't matter, you need to choose the best focal length of your lens that gives maximum sharpness. Not all lens are sharp across all the focal length. Some lens achieve peak sharpness between 4 to 5.6, While some expensive lens provide consistent sharpness across the entire focal range.
So, you cannot simply say the settings does not matter. They do matter. But yes, your camera settings cannot help other photographers.
I didn't fail to mention them-- that is not the focus of the video. I have many many many (shall I say many again) courses that cover more aspects in depth but they truly do not matter as much as people think they do. To address your points. (1) Do not shoot that slow. People should be shooting at their sync speed unless they are trying to show ambient light. (2) There is hardly any noise until very high ISO... this is NOT any real consideration unless someone is shooting at like 2000 iso and above (depending on the camera) and that is not likely with strobes. (3) That is not really any major consideration someone should worry about-- most lenses are very sharp regardless and honestly its only the cheapest lenses where this makes a difference. It is such a minimal 'pixel peeping' concern.
I just bought your wonderful book on posing and I cant put it down. Amazing tips and advice in there. WOW!!
Happy to hear that! Glad that you're finding it useful! :)
Coming from a film background id always lean towards the lens sweet spot, most manufacturers would list the optimum T stop, ( f stop). But when in doubt id use 2.5x the widest aperature, seen too many artifacts fringing etc on wide open. Many older lenses still have this marked on the lens, maybe new lenses have advanced to the point its not neccesary..
new lenses today it is truly truly not an issue at all (on stills side)
yeah youre right, it doesnt matter at all, one could easily shoot at 1/1000, f11, 100iso..........
it still matters, you still need to understand the relationship, its just a much more controlled enviroment. But if you dont understand the relationship between the 3, your images will suffer.
Indeed! :D
the model is so pretty ! can we get her @
Greatly appreciated. I am just starting with studio lighting so this is most usefull. Kind regards from Belgium.
Glad to help!
P.S. Not to try to "up sell you" but if you're just starting out with studio lighting you might want to check out my class: learn.lindsayadlerphotography.com/product/master-studio-lighting :)
Dam your skin glowing Lindsay
As someone else said in another comment section:
Amateurs worry about gear
Professionals worry about money
Greats worry about light
Love it.
You make it sound so simple! Well done!
Thank you!
Great video Lindsay! Love your down to earth no nonsense explanations, it’s not magic! Keep it up!
Thank you so much Roger! :)
Diffraction , flash duration and focal length should have been addressed because it all matters…
Flash duration is mentioned in another video I have, but 99% of people it is totally not applicable. Focal length makes a difference, but that's not a camera setting we are referring to in this video.
Background blur and image softness can be achieved in post-production on the computer if needed. However, getting detail back from an overly soft image is difficult. Better to shoot with higher and sharper apertures unless you get exactly want you want out of the camera with small apertures with little depth of field.
Most people try to get it right in camera, which is the point of what's being illustrated in this video.
Tks you are great!
This was an amazing tutorial!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with us.
Glad it was helpful!
U thought I was going crazy or missing something seeing all the videos on INstagram talking about the settings. To me it made no sense. Thanks for sharing.
Tks for the video! You do you use iso 200 instead 100? Tks again! :)
Learned so much ! I was super nervous shooting in the studio. You explain everything great. Quick question … With setting your Ap, shutter and iso how much power / what’s your setting with your strobe ?
So its irrelevant to the topic at hand (it has to do with distance of light, watts, modifier, etc), but you should definitely check out my class lindsayadler.photo/msl that really gets into this-- it helps you decide what to set your strobes at
I don`t even have a camera but couldn`t stop watching your video 😀
Such a great video! I love your style of teaching and the wealth of Information in your videos! Can't wait for the next one...
Thank you!
I always try to watch your videos since the instruction so good. I see if I can get my camera out next two weeks. Thanks for the refresher course working with a model or clients.
😀
You gave such a solid foundation on this topic. Great points and information. 👍
Thank you for sharing , great presentation 👍 nice job
You’re the best at teaching this material! Your content is always so relevant ! Thank you
🙏
I'm just gonna refer people to this video from now on. I'm always amazed by people who think even in the studio they have to shoot wide open while I'm usually at f16.
🙏
Wowww finally a honest Content creator
Hi and thanx Lindsay! Realy helpful these videos of yours. Your voice are clear and understandable, even if you talk a bit fast sometimes (for a norwegian) Anyway, realy enjoyable!
Thank you so much! :)
wow i just learn something thanks
Great video! What about videos about strobes on location and positioning and settings? I enjoyed the video
@@lindsayadlerphoto please do a video on that if you can. I just can’t get into the studio
@@smellgoodphotography7722 I have an entire course on Creativelive about lighting on location!
I liked the slower shutter when the second catch light was introduced.
Great video!
I was wondering how the warmer color was achieved in the photos, as I didn't see any mention of gels or something to add color to the light in the gear section. I really like the look.
Just white balance! Thats it! :D
@@lindsayadlerphotoThank you for the reply Lindsay! Didn't expect that you'd reply to an older video. Very much appreciated!
Love the style and feel of these portaits. I even like the test shots to show the light comparisons ❤.
Guys please like and comment on Lindsay's videos. If she becomes super popular, she can make a bigger living off of TH-cam and teach us all this content for FREE. THANK YOU LINDSAY!
I bought a vflat and will send you some of the shots inspired by your tutorials.
haha well thank you for the support! :)
Just discovered your channel and instantly subscribed. Your videos (the ones i saw) are very interesting and informative. Thanks
Glad you like them!
Wonderful photographer, great presenter.
Thanks so much!
SUPER. SUPER , THE BEST VIDEOS
நன்றாக இருக்கிறது வாழ்த்துக்கள் R.MANOHAR-CHENNAI
Fantastic. Thanks
Why would you shoot at an ISO above 100 in the Studio with strobes?
Because you don't need to use your strobes at high power (which often creates slower recycles times) especially when through larger modifiers.
Because I can quickly pop down to ISO 100 if I need to if the photo is too bright (without having to change the aperture which does change the depth of field).
P.S. Thanks for the kind words regarding that jerk or made that awfully rude comment!
@@lindsayadlerphoto You're most welcome. Out here in the social media swamp, they need to be culled whenever they raise their nasty little heads ; ) I'm shooting with a Nikon D850, which doesn't have lovely high ISO performance particularly. I'm also shooting portraits and headshots, so not particularly concerned with recycle times. With the Flashpoint AD600's I'm almost never at full power in the Studio. If the image is too bright, I reduce power on the lights, rather than get into camera adjustments. Daz just me. Loving your content, your presentation, and your marketing chops are superb and inspiring. Thank you!
@@geoffreydonne9774
You are both right! It depends on the situation. And if I only need to change the ISO it’s done very fast and I can see the change in the viewfinder, so I don‘t lose the Modell. But usually I don’t change light when shooting. I make a set up Test the light, Look at some samples and then I concentrate on the Modell oder Portrait. And if I am lucky my Digital Assistant tells me things I need to know. So to the beginning: you change the Iso if you need „fast“ more or less strobe/light. I love to use this on the street. Because I can get different „light“ looks without touching the strobe. Excellent explained and good question Geoffrey.
Boom she went there! 💝
The camera settings are dependent on your ambient light in a studio as you need a black frame without your flash.
did you watch the video?
Another great video from Lindsay. Looking forward to the next one!
Thanks so much!