Kain Duran - Yes, be sure and turn the engine over a couple times manually once you have the chain in place and again after releasing the tensioner to make sure the valves clear.
The 2.7 is an interference engine. When you line the timing marks up on the crankshaft timing chain sprocket and the oil pump it is not top dead center but actually 30 degrees before top dead center. This way there is a minimum of 1 1/4 inches clearance between any open valves and the piston preventing valve to piston strikes. Likewise, if you remove the cylinder heads or install them make certain the sprocket and oil pump mark line up to prevent valve damage when removing/installing the cylinder head.
I remember you saying take pics and video once it was to late for me!! would you happen to have any pics of the bolts that hold the timing cover to the engine? i know the ones are 10 mm but the 3 or 4 longs is where im getting lost at i think me coming into a job that was started by someone else is the problem lol i know this is a old video but was jus wondering
Yeah, that sounds like loads of fun. Not! But no, I don't have pics of the t-cover bolts. If you look at the places where the bolts thread into the block and the thickness of the bosses that the bolts go though on the cover, that might give you a clue as to which go where.
When you put the chain back on there should have been slightly darker links on it to time it up that way it takes a lot of guess work out of it. The are hard to tell sometimes. But a very good video
Daniel Villasenor - I really made the vid for techs like me so they would see what's involved not so much for those who never have been in deep waters like this. So I'd suggest be patient with yourself. Don't rush and stay well organized by taking pics before you remove something, putting bolts in multiple containers to keep track. Having a buddy help would be great if he is also there for reassembly. Keep this video with you as you work through it step by step.
I have seen mention of a mod kit that moves the main chain sprockets a few mm away from the front of the block to increase clearance between the chain and front of the water pump. Do you know of this mod.? I can find no information as to where to get the bits to do it. Of all the replacement water pumps out there which is considered the best, most reliable make? (with a metal impeller)
Here is an update to the above. The part number you need for the replacement pump is 4892224AA. That is a MOPAR number and I suggest it is the best one for the job. Spurious makes may not have the mod. Do NOT use the earlier pump ending in 373. The modification was to beef up the metal round the bolt holes to prevent warping which is why you got water in the oil. The new pump comes with a thinner gasket. I recommend you use silicone gasket on both faces (despite what others may say) and also put sealer on the bolt threads. It's a lousy job but most Sebring owners will have to do it some time. When you have got it to bits check the timing chain and replace if it's worn. Buy a kit with the sprockets included ensuring you get the correct one with the slots in as these are for timing the engine. This is VITAL.
I've worked as a professional automotive technicia and if it is a paper gaskets I always put silicone on it just for my own peace of mind. They tell you not to unless it was on there from the factory. I think ppl screw it up when they don't use the right amount. You have to spread it on evenly on both sides with your fingers and let it get tacky before you put it back together. Like I said I've been doing this for a little while now and I have never had a problem. But it works for me and I just like to do it.
+Paul Veltum (The IT Profesional) it is absolutely unbelievable how hard it is to work on these cars. it also seems to be totally unreliable. I just finished installing a new convertible top on the car and now its blowing water out of the weep hole. it's never ending
thank u for the video am about to walk out side rite now amd do this to my car i just bougt this car with a bad pump the car is a nice car but the over heating problem every works and drives nice the pump on this car is a big deal for sure i mite have some ?? about this water pump thing the video wzs very helpful thank u bud
It was designed by Francois Castaing, who we at Chrysler picked up when we brought out AMC in 1987. The engine was assembled at the Kenosha Engine assembly in Kenosha, Wisconsin. The plant closed in October 2010, 2.7 manufacturing ended in July of that year.
@@walterrichardson43 - TDC of piston no1 is still TDC of the compression stroke if the cams are on time. Being 180 off on the crank means it would be at BDC and that's not possible if you check your marks or the piston position in the bore.
@@paulveltum6908 correct.. but, on 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Ive always used a piece of tissue to make sure it's on the compression stroke. Instead of the exhaust stroke. And those are interference engines. Those chains on the inner have markings also. That must be lined up.
@@walterrichardson43 - Exactly - the crank turns twice for each rotation of the cam shafts, so it does not matter which turn it is on because the cams determine the nature of the stroke. Until the cams are timed to the stroke, there is no compression or exhaust stroke, up is up, so if you're marks are aligned, you are good.
The infamous 2.7 boat anchor
When the timing chain goes out of position will it bend the valves as it cranks??
Kain Duran - Yes, be sure and turn the engine over a couple times manually once you have the chain in place and again after releasing the tensioner to make sure the valves clear.
The 2.7 is an interference engine. When you line the timing marks up on the crankshaft timing chain sprocket and the oil pump it is not top dead center but actually 30 degrees before top dead center. This way there is a minimum of 1 1/4 inches clearance between any open valves and the piston preventing valve to piston strikes. Likewise, if you remove the cylinder heads or install them make certain the sprocket and oil pump mark line up to prevent valve damage when removing/installing the cylinder head.
I remember you saying take pics and video once it was to late for me!! would you happen to have any pics of the bolts that hold the timing cover to the engine? i know the ones are 10 mm but the 3 or 4 longs is where im getting lost at i think me coming into a job that was started by someone else is the problem lol i know this is a old video but was jus wondering
Yeah, that sounds like loads of fun. Not! But no, I don't have pics of the t-cover bolts. If you look at the places where the bolts thread into the block and the thickness of the bosses that the bolts go though on the cover, that might give you a clue as to which go where.
When you put the chain back on there should have been slightly darker links on it to time it up that way it takes a lot of guess work out of it. The are hard to tell sometimes. But a very good video
Did you use the new pump with old chain? Where did you buy the new pump i know is a new design the requires a new timing chain set
Daniel Villasenor - Yes the old chain was reused.
RacePush thanks will be doing this tomorrow
Daniel Villasenor - I really made the vid for techs like me so they would see what's involved not so much for those who never have been in deep waters like this. So I'd suggest be patient with yourself. Don't rush and stay well organized by taking pics before you remove something, putting bolts in multiple containers to keep track. Having a buddy help would be great if he is also there for reassembly. Keep this video with you as you work through it step by step.
I have seen mention of a mod kit that moves the main chain sprockets a few mm away from the front of the block to increase clearance between the chain and front of the water pump. Do you know of this mod.? I can find no information as to where to get the bits to do it. Of all the replacement water pumps out there which is considered the best, most reliable make? (with a metal impeller)
Here is an update to the above. The part number you need for the replacement pump is 4892224AA. That is a MOPAR number and I suggest it is the best one for the job. Spurious makes may not have the mod.
Do NOT use the earlier pump ending in 373.
The modification was to beef up the metal round the bolt holes to prevent warping which is why you got water in the oil.
The new pump comes with a thinner gasket. I recommend you use silicone gasket on both faces (despite what others may say) and also put sealer on the bolt threads.
It's a lousy job but most Sebring owners will have to do it some time. When you have got it to bits check the timing chain and replace if it's worn. Buy a kit with the sprockets included ensuring you get the correct one with the slots in as these are for timing the engine. This is VITAL.
Do you use any kind of RTV or sealant on that type of water pump gasket?
+Robert Petry - Hi Robert. The factory did not use a sealant so neither do I.
I've worked as a professional automotive technicia and if it is a paper gaskets I always put silicone on it just for my own peace of mind. They tell you not to unless it was on there from the factory. I think ppl screw it up when they don't use the right amount. You have to spread it on evenly on both sides with your fingers and let it get tacky before you put it back together. Like I said I've been doing this for a little while now and I have never had a problem. But it works for me and I just like to do it.
I used salack for gaskets it's a brown bottle .
would it be easier to drop the engine out of the car? I have to do this to my in-laws car. I hate everything about it
+Paul Veltum (The IT Profesional) it is absolutely unbelievable how hard it is to work on these cars. it also seems to be totally unreliable. I just finished installing a new convertible top on the car and now its blowing water out of the weep hole. it's never ending
thanks for this brother
You're welcome - Good luck!
great video
Tee n emm here just subscribed thank you for the video
excellent video!!! Thanks so much!!!
I guess I'll have try it wish me luck!?
Good luck
thank u for the video am about to walk out side rite now amd do this to my car i just bougt this car with a bad pump the car is a nice car but the over heating problem every works and drives nice the pump on this car is a big deal for sure i mite have some ?? about this water pump thing the video wzs very helpful thank u bud
Paul Irizarry - You're welcome Paul. Good luck.
I have to correct you for a comment made at 17:34. The Chrysler LH (2.7L) engine is NOT a Mitsubishi engine.
It was designed by Francois Castaing, who we at Chrysler picked up when we brought out AMC in 1987. The engine was assembled at the Kenosha Engine assembly in Kenosha, Wisconsin. The plant closed in October 2010, 2.7 manufacturing ended in July of that year.
Dua
Wrong... number one has 2 strokes. You can be 180degres off ..
Hey Walter. This is a four stroke engine. How can we be off 180 degs if the cams are on time with TDC? Not following you.
@@paulveltum6908 the crank turns twice to cam.
@@walterrichardson43 - TDC of piston no1 is still TDC of the compression stroke if the cams are on time. Being 180 off on the crank means it would be at BDC and that's not possible if you check your marks or the piston position in the bore.
@@paulveltum6908 correct.. but, on 6 and 8 cylinder engines. Ive always used a piece of tissue to make sure it's on the compression stroke. Instead of the exhaust stroke. And those are interference engines. Those chains on the inner have markings also. That must be lined up.
@@walterrichardson43 - Exactly - the crank turns twice for each rotation of the cam shafts, so it does not matter which turn it is on because the cams determine the nature of the stroke. Until the cams are timed to the stroke, there is no compression or exhaust stroke, up is up, so if you're marks are aligned, you are good.