This guy knows what he's talking about, which is recommendation enough, but he is also possessed of a measured, soothing voice. This is exactly what you need to hear when you've been tearing your hair out. I'd call it Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance, but I think that's already another thing.
Mate this is an excellent video. Even 13 years after you made it, still great information. I'm looking at a project and this could essentially be the fix for it :) could save me a heap of money
I've watched a lot of instructional videos on TH-cam and this very quickly became the most well put together. This is a whole-hearted thank you for taking the time to put together such a helpful piece.
Your presentation is excellent. Mike Arman in one of his many publications suggests running the engine at 2500 RPM (after setting the gap on the points) until the engine starts to struggle and then move the timing plate back 1/8". This method has saved me a lot of misery and is incredibly accurate when checked with a timing light.
Here's an old time tip on points. Make sure the gap is the same on both the small and large lobes. That way the timing and gap will be the same for both cylinders. BTW Great Video!
I had problems with my rear cylinder backfiring when it got hot. Traced it down to a faulty condenser. Had to reset the points cause the set screws came out with the two cover plate screws. I set it by "ear" but now have a full understanding on how to do it proper. Thanks for the vid.
BEST VIDEO ON THIS SUBJECT! I've been looking for a video on a Shovelhead, and this is PERFECT! If shovelhead was in the title your views would triple... they time the same..
Thanks for the descriptive video. I usually use the timing window and then get it close by the way it sounds and runs- but it always leaves me guessing a little. I really dig the continuity way. I'll try that next time !
Thanks just got my first Harley 76 ironhead 42 rack so interesting. Few family members said old ones no good cause working on them idc thats called taking care of them. The great vid
Great informative video. Well done. I'm trying to buy one of these old Ironheads. It'll be my first Harley. IF I get it I'll be tuning in to your channel quite a bit. Thanks
Assumong that the person who installed it set it up properly, You just leave it alone! Just check out your timing with a timing light, If it is set OK don't touch it. If it is a little off, you can rotate the plate to set the timing with the timing light. Some models let you adjust the timing by plugging the unit into a laptop computer. I put an Ultra ignition in my bike after this video was made, and the timing was spot on. You can use a computer to adjust each cylinder indepentently. Chris
The marks can be different on different flywheels. You are trying to use the advance mark for the front cylinder. This will be in the window somewhere around when the rear cylinder is at top dead center. try putting the rear cylinder at top dead center and look for the mark nearest to the window. Use that mark to set your points.
Hey when i use the multi meter? points position before i twist cam to listen for the buzzer to go off. Back? forward? Or just touching cam?i had to take the parts off plate stumped.... Its compression top front jug showing mark in middle
I guess the best way would be to buy a point conversion kit for your bike, but I’m not sure why you would want to do that. A quality electronic ignition that is properly set up is usually bulletproof. If the factory electronic ignition has problems id probably look for a quality aftermarket electronic ignition. I don’t know much about EVO sportsters or ignition issues they may have, but I know a group of people who do. Check out the XLFourm and go the the EVO sportster section and I bet you will get good advice.
@Shinandagains you need to center the point cam so that the gap is the same for both cam lobes prior to performing the procedure in this video. to center it you need to listen the nut in the center a little shift the cam over and retighten the center nut. Unless you spend the money on a good advance unit you will have problems keeping the point cam centered. I wound up putting electronic ignition in my bike and never looked back.
great video exept you left out the fact that in many cases it is necesary to alighn the point cam with a gental tap as the gap will be wider on the small lobe or the wide lobe eithor or...a wooden dowel and a ball peen hammer works nice . i have personaly had a cam not run true and my shovel ran like crap till i smacked it over and lined it all up ,run well after that, of course an old guy had to show me lol
The system is a waste spark system which means that the spark does not go to ground. The spark goes from the coil, up one plug wire, through the spark plug, through the engine, then through the other spark plug, then down the other spark plug wire and back into the coil. If any part of this circuit is broken you won’t get spark at the plugs. Leave everything else connected and only check one spark plug at a time.
hello i have a 1979 ironhead and iv put new points, condencer, plate, advance unit and i can not get this thing timed i got one cylender fireing and the other backfirers my timeing lobe looks just like yours is this a single fire or dule fire any help would be great thanks.
One thing usually overlooked is to check the gap on both lobs. That 10-32Xmile long screw that holds the point cam assembly onto the second cam isn't strong enough to cinch down a mis-seated point cam assm. and if it's not seated the points will be 20thou on one lobe and 50 on the other. This causes the bike to run on one cylinder (or, run poorly on both) and if you never check the rear lobe you will never find the problem. DO NOT overtighten that screw! If the point cam assm. is not seated take the screw out and seat it with light taps using a plastic hammer (DO NOT hammer on the screw). It may take several attempts.
@119Everett The marks on your flywheel may be different. Put you rear cylinder at TDC and look for the mark nearest the timing hole. That mark is the front cylinder advance mark, which is the one you time the front cylinder to. Point ignitions are wasted spark on these bikes that fires both cylinders every time.
Great job. Thank You! I actually think a timing light, after setting the gap would be easier than the static method, but have only done that on older Chevy's so far. If timing is fairly close already, I believe that would be way to go after adjusting point gap. If bike starts OK and holds idle I believe that would work, but correct me if I'm wrong.
If it starts you can always use a timing light, but I still use this method or a similar one when setting up any engine, then use a timing light to verify that it is spot on (which is will be if you do it right). On high compression race engines you have to use a method like this just to get it at least near the right spot before starting it or you can damage the engine. in order to time (or check the timing) on your old Harley with a timing light, you need to use the same markings. oil will be shooting out at you so be sure to put a ziplock bag over your timing light and do it in an area where you dont mind oil getting all over the ground. They make transparent plug for the hole but you can never see through them for crap. The best way is to run the engine with the plug in so that the oil scaveges properly out of the sump, then pull the plug right before shooting it with the timing light. this way there will be a minimal amount of oil in the sump. The longer you run it without the plug, the more oil collects in the sump, and the messier it gets. Chris
GREAT tip, thank you! I have a 73 and a 77 Sporty. The 73 just has a bolt over the timing hole and the 77 (I believe) has the plug, but will take another look. Good video, very helpful. Had a 76 for years but someone had put a Mikuni carb in there and electronic ignition, probably should have kept that bike however what I have now is close to 100% stock, particularly the 73, original purple paint, right-side shift, non-return throttle 2 piece handlebar and dual front brake caliper. Starts and runs fine but just shuts down for no apparent reason after short ride, can usually restart. Figured it is most likely electrical so checking timing & point gap 1st. Jury is still out.
thanx man, very helpful ive been having a bit of trouble with this for the past couple of days i think my only problem is that im on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke on the front cylinder
once i line up the marks on the top of the cylinder how do i set the timing, is it different for my 1970 sportster with a 900 ironhead? i was told to spin the tire in 4th gear to line up, but i have a hole and i have a line, not sure which one to go by? is the line for the front or the back cylinder or it for the hole or for both?
I have a 1980 Ironhead sporster. It's been converted to points. If I gap the points on the narrow lobe, they are way wider on the wide lobe and vise versa. Do you think that cam would be different and you have to change it out when you switch to points? The bike was not running when I acquired it, would back fire out of carb and pipes. Turns with a hiccup like the timing is off, which I'm sure it is, but have you ever seen the points thing I'm talking about? Could be something Im doing wrong
i need help!i have a 1969 XLH 900,was running perfect.All the sudden miss fireing.Put new plugs in Champion h8,points set at .20,timing mark straight up points just open when advanced.Plugs when out n grounded fire,spark plug wires show about a 3/8 spark..Any ideas,compression 148 front,rear 145.thanks
First off I just want to sayThank you and that you videos are super helpful,I was wondering do you have one on replacing a starter on a 1975 Sportster? I learn better when I can see how it is done then reading how it is done. Thank you i addvance!
Thanks for this video. I followed the directions, but when I have the line centered in the hole, I am always in the center of the large lobe. I have an 83 that a previous owner switched to points. Should I line up a different mark with the center of the hole?
They changed the timing marks on later years. See this link for the mark. swww.nightrider.com/biketech/images/ignition_figure_1.gif nThe line is probably Front cylinder TDC And the dot is probably 40°BTDC for the front cylinder. If you have an aftermarket flywheel all bets are off on what the marks are. The easiest way I found to determine the front cylinder 40° BTDC mark is to put the rear cylinder at tdc by looking in the spark plug hole, then turn the flywheel a 5 more degrees more until the next mark shows up. this works because TDC for the rear cylinder is also 45° BTDC for the front cylinder. Go to the ironhead section of the XL forum and you will find tons of info on tuning these bikes, including my videos.
shadowdog500 Your advice was spot on! Thanks! I should have been lining up the single dot instead of the line. Unfortunately, another issue has developed. If I tighten the trigger rotor bolt enough to hold the trigger rotor in place, I cannot turn the advancer as shown in this video. If I loosen the bolt enough to allow it to turn, I get inconsistent readings on my points gap. I started a thread on this on the XL forum: xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?p=5084771#post5084771
Shadowdog500, do you happen to know what the inlet on top of a CV carb is for? Does that go to the vent on the Gas Tank? Or is that for the secondary outlet on the PetCock?
Not sure without seeing it, but Harley did run a vacuum petcock that used vacuum from the carb to turn it on and off. My money is on that. But I could be wrong. I understand that a lot of people replace the vacuum operated petcock with a manual petcock and cap the line from the carb.
@@shadowdog500 I will get you a picture of the tank. The carb is not the original, its an 84 sportster which i believe did not come with a CV. Thanks for the info.
To get the best mechanical advantage to rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel. In 4th gear the engine turns the lowest number of revolutions per turn of the rear Wheel. In first gear the engine turns a the highest number of revolutions per turn of the wheel. It is a lot easier to turn the engine in 4th gear.
OK, have a 1975 AMF XLH-1000 Sportster and no matter how many times I try, the small lobe is not reaching the point where I can open the points. I have the cam advanced as you show and I have the line on the flywheel in the center of the timing hole. The only way I can get it to work as you show is to have the drilled through hole in the center of the timing hole (which I believe is TDC). Any suggestions? Note: I also checked the advance mechanism many times to make sure the pin is seated properly in the slot.
The flywheel marks actually vary dependent on the year of the sportster so you need to figure out what the marks are for your bike. In addition, aftermarket flywheels have different markings. The easiest way to find the proper 40° before top dead center mark for the front cylinder is to set the rear cylinder on top dead center by looking at the rear piston. With the rear cylinder at TDC you are now at 45°BTDC for the front cylinder. Move it about 5° more to the next Mark. The Ironhead Sporster section of the XLForum is an excellent resource for all thing to do with Sporsters and will defiantly have a resource to find the flywheel marks for your bike.. Here is a link to the technical sticky section of the Ironhead Sporster forum. Check it out, they are a great bunch of guys. Chris xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=f3ab9fb5dd62581f7c66399d1d0e56ef&t=465866
Off the top of my head one of two things could be wrong. If it is near the wide lobe jut rotate the crankshaft another turn and it should come up sear the small lobe. Second is to make sure that your flywheel has the same markings as mine. Harley changed the flywheel markings from time to time and aftermarket flywheels had thier own markings, so it is always good to make sure your marks are the same. This is easy to check. Harley is a 45deg V twin. so the mark for the front cylinder to be 40deg BTDC means that the rear cylinder is 5 deg past TDC. Put the rear cylinder on TDC and slowly rotate the crank forward a little bit and the 40 deg before TDC mark should be the next one to show up in the hole
where does the wire come out of the engine for the condenser? and does it go to the coil after that? I have a 75 iron head that wiring was all cut out when it was given to me. I have it cranking but cant get it to spark. Any help with it would be much appreciated I'm a diesel mechanic and never worked on motorcycles before
The coil wire and the condenser wire both mount onto the points. The coil wire goes through a hole in the bottom of the side cover which is at about 7 o'clock when you look in the side cover with the point cover off. From there it runs to an open area under the back of the side cover. If you push a wire into the hole and go under the bike you should find it. From there I run it back behind the engine, up the frame behind the engine, and up the top bar of the frame to the coil. The +12V from the ignition goes to the hot side of the coil(usually marked with a +), and the wire from the points go to the ground side of the coil (usually marked with a -). If you run an electric tach that also goes on the ground side of the coil. Almost all point ignition systems on any engine are wired this way. Hope this helps Chris.
I used a 12v light since my multimeter did not have a buzz option. One lead to points and other to ground. You have to turn on ignition but works well in that when points begin to open light comes on. Got timing mark dead center, gap set at .018. When I advanced the points forward, light just came on. Thought it was perfect. However, bike would not start, worse than before. I'm thinking maybe I set timing on WIDE lobe. It is a little difficult to tell whether you are coming up on SMALL lobe.OR WIDE lobe since there is not a lot of viewing space with the points in place. There's probably a dozen other things that could be wrong, I did shorten the fuel line to make it more direct, but that shouldn't have done anything other than let fuel flow smoother from tank. Is there a good way to make sure you're coming up on SMALL lobe? As I understand, when timing mark is centered it could be coming up on either lobe. Correct?
@@harolddalesr8365 Thanks Harold, have learned a few things since I wrote that. Now have another problem. Bought a replacement starter relay that stuck in open position and almost started a fire with wire to solenoid, hit a ground to hot trying to fix (my mistake there) and fried solenoid with a loud pop. Hopefully it just burnt contacts and I have a rebuild kit, hoping I can replace contacts and fix on the bike which is a 73 Sporty in this case. Thanks for your comments!
@@someofem take it off the bike and rebuild it Soliends may have purchased new. When done sit it on the bench and hook up to car/bike battery . Test it , ground wire to starter and red hot wire to soliends . Just barely touch the hot side on the soliends. If it turns freely , good to go.
It is easy! Years ago this was common knowledge by anyone who worked on their own car or bike. Adjusting valves, and rebuilding/tuning/balancing carbs didn't have as much mystique back then either. With a little bit if knowledge you could always get home. That being said, I did put a $150 ultima electronic ignition on mine a year or two after making this video. Everyone on the XL Forum was raving about the Ultima, the price was right, and I liked having a hotter, non waste spark ignition, that allowed you to time the front and rear cylinder independently. Chris
Yer, but we have become lazy haven't we.. Everything is so easy now. At least a tune up with electronic ignition these days is just an oil change pretty much :) So, Ultima huh? Bike shop wants to sell be a Daytona - but I think I will do it myself instead, might just go with the Ultima after all now you say this. Thanks
+Ron Hutcheon not sure if we are lazy, we just reached the point that this type of info isn't really needed anymore because the computer does it for you. I like tinkering with stuff like this, but I kind of like the new stuff where an oil change is the entire tuneup. A lot of young Pro mechanics probably wouldn't know what to do if they had an old carbureted point engine come in their shop for repair. I bought that ultima ignition a few years ago and have since sold the bike to help buy a compressor for my new shop (I figured I'd replace my toys I sold to help pay for the shop once I recover from the financial blow of building and equipping a new shop). Ultima may not be the hot setup today. Go to the XL forum and see what those guys recommend today. Just do a search for "ironhead sporster motorcycle talk (1957 - 1985)". And you will find the forum. It is a great bunch of guys with a ton of info on your bike. Chris
Thank you for the lesson. I have an 83 ironhead but nothing is wired up. I had some accufire electronic points on there before. My bike never ran right or 100% What do you say? These are the mechanical OEM ones right? thanks
You can go with a good set of points. Just be aware that Harley changed the timing marks over the years so make sure you know the proper marks on your bike. Second thing is that about 10 years ago a bunch of people on the XL forum switched to a Ultima single fire ignition system and really liked it. I switched my bike to the ultima ignition and liked it as well. I don’t have the bike anymore and can’t find my records on what one it was but I’m sure you can find it or whatever the current best electronic ignition is on the XL forum, xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=465866
hey great vid. I have an 82 ironhead. I have a clanking sound that sounds like it could be retarted timing. My ingintion is electric. I guess this process would not work right? or would it?
Friend just dropped his off for me to work on.he is getting juice to his coil but no spark whatsoever.tried 2 coils,same result.could this be a timing issue?i know my way around cars but never dealt with a bike.i havent made any inspections yet,only been in my garage for about an hour
Yes,it was the magnetic switch/pickup.Not point-type,but the after market magnetic switch that had apparently failed internally.Put a new one on and it fired up on the first try
Hi. Ist owe a 1979 sportster 1000 xlh. trying to Set the Timing points. Did I unterstand IT right, the gap of the breaker is 0.003 inch? Thanks in advance
I have a 1984 iron head xlh which is converted to points. I replaced them and she ran great for 3 days then started to misfire a little, so I re adjusted them and now she runs like crap I keep trying different cams and gaps... any advice pleas. ps brand new condenser when fitted points
This is one of those things where someone would have to look at what you are doing. Here are a couple Tip's. The marks on the flywheel changed over the years. Confirm what mark you want to line up on. You want to make sure the front cylinder is in the compression stroke and has the proper cam lobe coming up to the points. I've read that some of the offshore cams have had the lobes ground 180° off. Make sure the points are gapped about the same on both can lobes. If the cam is off center one gap will be wider than the other which would affect the timing of the rear cylinder. If everything is set properly check to make sure it isn't a different problem with your bike. Hope this helps, Chris
Thanx for your advice. it turned out to be a leaking intake manifold so I took her to the shop to fixed and the carb retuned. thanx again for the info it will come in very handy in the future im sure. Spike
Good question. The first step is to properly set the point gap at the top of a lobe which actually is done as a simple method to get the proper dwell angle. The proper dwell angle ensures that, for the entire operating range of the engine, the points are closed long enough to saturate the coil (which gives good spark) but no so long that it heats up the coil and points(which eventually destroys them). Once the point gap is set to 0.018” at the top of a lobe that setting will not change no mater how much you adjust the timing. The second adjustment is totally independent if the first and is to set the ignition timing so that the points open at the exact crank angle that the spark plug needs to fire. (The spark plugs fire when the points open) If you look at the point cam on an old Harley you will notice that the one lobe is wider than the other. The rear cylinder cam lobe opens the points earlier because the rear cylinder fires 45° ahead of the crank angle where the front cylinder fires, and that lobe is wider to keep the points open a little bit longer so the dwell angle (AKA the crank angle the points are closed) is the same for both cylinders.
Nice informative videos......okay got a 1982 ironhead.....and recently expering bad back firing. ....running like shit....replaced plugs...still doing it.....can it be points or carb issues? .i have a S & S..Carb....and points not electronic ignition.....any information....??
Can someone PLEASE tell me what I should do if my points are open when I'm supposedly on the TDC line? I move the plate as far as it will go but can't get it where this video says it needs to be. I on the right mark? 1983 Ironhead.
I'm not using the TDC line in this video, Im using the 40º advance line for the front cylinder. The other thing that gets most people is that the flywheel marks actually vary dependent on the year of the sportster so you need to figure out what the marks are for your bike. The Ironhead Sporster section of the XLForum is an excellent resource for all thing to do with Sporsters and will defiantly have a resource to find the flywheel marks for your bike.. Here is a link to the technical sticky section of the Ironhead Sporster forum. Check it out, they are a great bunch of guys. Chris xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=f3ab9fb5dd62581f7c66399d1d0e56ef&t=465866
When you check it with a timing light after using this procedure does it typically require further adjustment? I would think it should be pretty well set following your video. I know it is best to use a timing light. Just curious. Thanks.
If you are going to use a timing light there is a clear plastic plug a bike shop will sell you that you can screw into the timing hole. Without it you will take a shower in oil and not be able to see any marks. It also takes two people as the hole is on one side and the timing unit on the other side. Try to mark the flywheel somehow so you can tell which side of the mark you are on (don't hit the flywheel). I've never had a problem using the static procedure outlined by shadowdog.
+Marlene Stott Unfortunately, my reply is "I don't know" since I've never owned a Shovelhead. I cant see why static timing a shovelhead would be different, but even if it is the same procedure, you want to find out if they use different marks to mark full advance. Chris
There are variations on shovelheads but I think, if the shovelhead has points, the procedure is the same. Early shovels had a distributer and later ones were called "cone" engines and the cone engines are similar to ironheads. Check out the videos under "tatro machine" on youtube. He uses the same procedure as here on several shovels. As noted by shadowdog the flywheel markings will vary some and you need to know which mark to line up in the window.
@KDN990 This procedure will work on your '74 irohnead. but I do advise people to confirm that the 40deg advance mark by pulling the rear cylinder to TDC and looking for the mark nearest the hole. If someone rebuilt your bottom end with an aftermarket flywheel or one from a different year the marks may be different.
On a 77 sportster shovel I owned I ust set the points at 0.010 or a little greater (they run better at 10 but last much long at 15) and aust it on the higher lobe. Then slightly loosen the two crews holding the timing plate and start the engine and adust it where it ra best at a higher idle of about 1200 rpm and then drop idle to regular idle and verify it ran okay there. No checking the two marks in the window at all. My way works better because it works in agreement with carburetor type and air mixture settings on your particular carb and if its off it will show white on your plug electrodes and if correct will show light grey on your plug electrodes. My way is also best because it agrees with your engine balance which can be off slightly and agrees with your altitude area
Sure there is. We call them Ironheads. Visual style is Shovel-like... so plenty of folks call them that. Doesn't matter if it's "wrong", it still happens.
You state WE as in YOU, WE WHO? NOT TRUE. From flat head to knuckle head to pan head to shovel head is descriptive of its rocker holder cover design. Shovel head sportster is 1958 to 1984 and yes it does matter because it classifies the ERA and makes known its 4 cam for sportster and single cam for big twin. Iron head can mean any Harley from 1914 to 1984 having an iron head and doesn't signify. It matters very very very much same as the description of saying iron head Ford V8 but never saying whether its flat head or OHV or Y Block or Windsor or Cleveland or Fe series.
Hey.. I'm an TH-cam expert, ok? (I've learned everything I know from TH-cam!) Anyways.. only Harley I've seen being called "ironhead" on here is the pre-Evo Sportsters. Of course there are other models that have cylinder heads actually made of iron, but the "name" ironhead seems to primarily be reserved for the pre-Evo Sportsters. Right or wrong, I have no idea.
Ha! I just opened this page to read comments then went in the other room for dinner not realizing that the video was running. After about 8 minutes into dinner, my wife and I started wondering where the heck this loud beep was coming from. :)
My apologies. I failed to clearly explain that timing is advanced until the engine starts to struggle then moved the timing plate back 1/8". It works; honest.
This applies to a stalk 5 ohm coil, stalk plug wires, but what if the ignition system was set up to have 0 ohms, how far off would it throw everything in the books off, my timing was always too far advanced when going by this, my spark is faster, so id have too retard timing from stalk spec's, but by how much, it seemed like my plate had no more room to turn, was maxed out one way, unless timing from the front cylinder first would couse it to be too far advance,,or both. In combination. Great video. This mad scientist needs too know whats possible thats not in the books.
Clearly a timeless video!!! Thanks for showing the movement of the advance - I got a bit of cleaning and lubrication ahead.
Sounds like you're getting ready for a Saturday night😅
This guy knows what he's talking about, which is recommendation enough, but he is also possessed of a measured, soothing voice. This is exactly what you need to hear when you've been tearing your hair out. I'd call it Zen and the art of Motorcycle Maintenance, but I think that's already another thing.
Well said
You could tell by the way he yanked those plugs in a couple seconds he is bout his business
Mate this is an excellent video. Even 13 years after you made it, still great information. I'm looking at a project and this could essentially be the fix for it :) could save me a heap of money
This video made all the difference in the world with my old Iron head. Just a tap of the starter button and she's running!
I've watched a lot of instructional videos on TH-cam and this very quickly became the most well put together. This is a whole-hearted thank you for taking the time to put together such a helpful piece.
You assisted me massively sir
The theory behind this job is now understandable
Great job and much appreciated!
Your presentation is excellent. Mike Arman in one of his many publications suggests running the engine at 2500 RPM (after setting the gap on the points) until the engine starts to struggle and then move the timing plate back 1/8". This method has saved me a lot of misery and is incredibly accurate when checked with a timing light.
Here's an old time tip on points. Make sure the gap is the same on both the small and large lobes. That way the timing and gap will be the same for both cylinders. BTW Great Video!
Great tutorial! Simply explained and clearly presented visually. Thanks!
I had problems with my rear cylinder backfiring when it got hot. Traced it down to a faulty condenser. Had to reset the points cause the set screws came out with the two cover plate screws. I set it by "ear" but now have a full understanding on how to do it proper. Thanks for the vid.
BEST VIDEO ON THIS SUBJECT!
I've been looking for a video on a Shovelhead, and this is PERFECT! If shovelhead was in the title your views would triple... they time the same..
best points and timing video ive seen!
Thanks for the descriptive video. I usually use the timing window and then get it close by the way it sounds and runs- but it always leaves me guessing a little. I really dig the continuity way. I'll try that next time !
Thanks just got my first Harley 76 ironhead 42 rack so interesting. Few family members said old ones no good cause working on them idc thats called taking care of them. The great vid
Great informative video. Well done. I'm trying to buy one of these old Ironheads. It'll be my first Harley. IF I get it I'll be tuning in to your channel quite a bit. Thanks
awesome vid, Chris. extremely helpful. you really packed that 10 minutes! see you on the XLF.
Thanks for this video. it was invaluable when I took the aftermarket EI out of my bike to put points back in.
Best vid instructional on Timing an XLCH. Thkyou!!!
Assumong that the person who installed it set it up properly, You just leave it alone!
Just check out your timing with a timing light, If it is set OK don't touch it. If it is a little off, you can rotate the plate to set the timing with the timing light. Some models let you adjust the timing by plugging the unit into a laptop computer. I put an Ultra ignition in my bike after this video was made, and the timing was spot on. You can use a computer to adjust each cylinder indepentently.
Chris
Thanks! I bought a 1979 Ironhead Sportster last year. This video is super!
Thanks so much man for very helpful posting .... Really appreciate it
The marks can be different on different flywheels. You are trying to use the advance mark for the front cylinder. This will be in the window somewhere around when the rear cylinder is at top dead center. try putting the rear cylinder at top dead center and look for the mark nearest to the window. Use that mark to set your points.
Great video! Just saved me a full day of head scratching! thanks again!
~Tip
Great video! Amazing how easy it is on harleys.
Hey when i use the multi meter? points position before i twist cam to listen for the buzzer to go off. Back? forward? Or just touching cam?i had to take the parts off plate stumped.... Its compression top front jug showing mark in middle
What would I need to convert a 2000 1200 cc Sportster engine from an electronic ignition to a points system?TYIA.
I guess the best way would be to buy a point conversion kit for your bike, but I’m not sure why you would want to do that. A quality electronic ignition that is properly set up is usually bulletproof. If the factory electronic ignition has problems id probably look for a quality aftermarket electronic ignition. I don’t know much about EVO sportsters or ignition issues they may have, but I know a group of people who do. Check out the XLFourm and go the the EVO sportster section and I bet you will get good advice.
@Shinandagains you need to center the point cam so that the gap is the same for both cam lobes prior to performing the procedure in this video. to center it you need to listen the nut in the center a little shift the cam over and retighten the center nut. Unless you spend the money on a good advance unit you will have problems keeping the point cam centered. I wound up putting electronic ignition in my bike and never looked back.
great video exept you left out the fact that in many cases it is necesary to alighn the point cam with a gental tap as the gap will be wider on the small lobe or the wide lobe eithor or...a wooden dowel and a ball peen hammer works nice . i have personaly had a cam not run true and my shovel ran like crap till i smacked it over and lined it all up ,run well after that, of course an old guy had to show me lol
Thanks,
That is a great tip.
If I ever get around to making a video on replacing the advance I will show how to center the cam.
Chris
Good tips, I having spark problems. Spark at the points and nothing at plugs. Any videos on that? Have ‘75 sporty electric start only. Thanks
The system is a waste spark system which means that the spark does not go to ground. The spark goes from the coil, up one plug wire, through the spark plug, through the engine, then through the other spark plug, then down the other spark plug wire and back into the coil. If any part of this circuit is broken you won’t get spark at the plugs. Leave everything else connected and only check one spark plug at a time.
What should I do if when I put it on the 40* mark for the front cylinder (the line, not the dots) the points are on the big lobe now the small one
The cam turns at half the rotation rate as the crankshaft. Rotate the crankshaft one rotation and the points will be on the small lobe.
hello i have a 1979 ironhead and iv put new points, condencer, plate, advance unit and i can not get this thing timed i got one cylender fireing and the other backfirers my timeing lobe looks just like yours is this a single fire or dule fire any help would be great thanks.
One thing usually overlooked is to check the gap on both lobs. That 10-32Xmile long screw that holds the point cam assembly onto the second cam isn't strong enough to cinch down a mis-seated point cam assm. and if it's not seated the points will be 20thou on one lobe and 50 on the other. This causes the bike to run on one cylinder (or, run poorly on both) and if you never check the rear lobe you will never find the problem. DO NOT overtighten that screw! If the point cam assm. is not seated take the screw out and seat it with light taps using a plastic hammer (DO NOT hammer on the screw). It may take several attempts.
Awesome instructions. Thanks
Perdón amigo una pregunta yo voy a daptarles el platino AMI moto pero nosé si se pone el pistón 1 asia Riva o que
This video is great. Good information to use with my 76 Ironhead XLH 1000.
@119Everett The marks on your flywheel may be different. Put you rear cylinder at TDC and look for the mark nearest the timing hole. That mark is the front cylinder advance mark, which is the one you time the front cylinder to. Point ignitions are wasted spark on these bikes that fires both cylinders every time.
Agree with many comments that shadowdog500's videos are good instruction. I go back and review this and his other videos often.
sweet vid dude ..... bookmarked for further reference .
Great job. Thank You! I actually think a timing light, after setting the gap would be easier than the static method, but have only done that on older Chevy's so far. If timing is fairly close already, I believe that would be way to go after adjusting point gap. If bike starts OK and holds idle I believe that would work, but correct me if I'm wrong.
If it starts you can always use a timing light, but I still use this method or a similar one when setting up any engine, then use a timing light to verify that it is spot on (which is will be if you do it right). On high compression race engines you have to use a method like this just to get it at least near the right spot before starting it or you can damage the engine. in order to time (or check the timing) on your old Harley with a timing light, you need to use the same markings. oil will be shooting out at you so be sure to put a ziplock bag over your timing light and do it in an area where you dont mind oil getting all over the ground. They make transparent plug for the hole but you can never see through them for crap. The best way is to run the engine with the plug in so that the oil scaveges properly out of the sump, then pull the plug right before shooting it with the timing light. this way there will be a minimal amount of oil in the sump. The longer you run it without the plug, the more oil collects in the sump, and the messier it gets. Chris
GREAT tip, thank you! I have a 73 and a 77 Sporty. The 73 just has a bolt over the timing hole and the 77 (I believe) has the plug, but will take another look. Good video, very helpful. Had a 76 for years but someone had put a Mikuni carb in there and electronic ignition, probably should have kept that bike however what I have now is close to 100% stock, particularly the 73, original purple paint, right-side shift, non-return throttle 2 piece handlebar and dual front brake caliper. Starts and runs fine but just shuts down for no apparent reason after short ride, can usually restart. Figured it is most likely electrical so checking timing & point gap 1st. Jury is still out.
thanx man, very helpful ive been having a bit of trouble with this for the past couple of days i think my only problem is that im on the exhaust stroke instead of compression stroke on the front cylinder
Thanks! I don't have a video on replacing a starter but I will make one the next time I have to pull the starter.
shadowdog500
once i line up the marks on the top of the cylinder how do i set the timing, is it different for my 1970 sportster with a 900 ironhead? i was told to spin the tire in 4th gear to line up, but i have a hole and i have a line, not sure which one to go by? is the line for the front or the back cylinder or it for the hole or for both?
I have a 1980 Ironhead sporster. It's been converted to points. If I gap the points on the narrow lobe, they are way wider on the wide lobe and vise versa. Do you think that cam would be different and you have to change it out when you switch to points? The bike was not running when I acquired it, would back fire out of carb and pipes. Turns with a hiccup like the timing is off, which I'm sure it is, but have you ever seen the points thing I'm talking about? Could be something Im doing wrong
i need help!i have a 1969 XLH 900,was running perfect.All the sudden miss fireing.Put new plugs in Champion h8,points set at .20,timing mark straight up points just open when advanced.Plugs when out n grounded fire,spark plug wires show about a 3/8 spark..Any ideas,compression 148 front,rear 145.thanks
oops i meant to say, can I use a continuity tester if I dont have a multimeter.
Thank you for sharing excellent video
i have a72 ironhead this video helps alot
First off I just want to sayThank you and that you videos are super helpful,I was wondering do you have one on replacing a starter on a 1975 Sportster? I learn better when I can see how it is done then reading how it is done. Thank you i addvance!
Thanks for this video. I followed the directions, but when I have the line centered in the hole, I am always in the center of the large lobe. I have an 83 that a previous owner switched to points. Should I line up a different mark with the center of the hole?
They changed the timing marks on later years. See this link for the mark. swww.nightrider.com/biketech/images/ignition_figure_1.gif nThe line is probably Front cylinder TDC
And the dot is probably 40°BTDC for the front cylinder. If you have an aftermarket flywheel all bets are off on what the marks are. The easiest way I found to determine the front cylinder 40° BTDC mark is to put the rear cylinder at tdc by looking in the spark plug hole, then turn the flywheel a 5 more degrees more until the next mark shows up. this works because TDC for the rear cylinder is also 45° BTDC for the front cylinder. Go to the ironhead section of the XL forum and you will find tons of info on tuning these bikes, including my videos.
shadowdog500 Your advice was spot on! Thanks! I should have been lining up the single dot instead of the line. Unfortunately, another issue has developed. If I tighten the trigger rotor bolt enough to hold the trigger rotor in place, I cannot turn the advancer as shown in this video. If I loosen the bolt enough to allow it to turn, I get inconsistent readings on my points gap. I started a thread on this on the XL forum: xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?p=5084771#post5084771
folsoml I figured out my second issue. Cam was rotated 180 degrees on the spindle.
Shadowdog500, do you happen to know what the inlet on top of a CV carb is for? Does that go to the vent on the Gas Tank? Or is that for the secondary outlet on the PetCock?
Not sure without seeing it, but Harley did run a vacuum petcock that used vacuum from the carb to turn it on and off. My money is on that. But I could be wrong. I understand that a lot of people replace the vacuum operated petcock with a manual petcock and cap the line from the carb.
@@shadowdog500 I will get you a picture of the tank. The carb is not the original, its an 84 sportster which i believe did not come with a CV.
Thanks for the info.
Shadowdog500, why do you run through the gears before looking for the timing mark?
To get the best mechanical advantage to rotate the engine by turning the rear wheel. In 4th gear the engine turns the lowest number of revolutions per turn of the rear Wheel. In first gear the engine turns a the highest number of revolutions per turn of the wheel. It is a lot easier to turn the engine in 4th gear.
@@shadowdog500 thank you so much, that makes perfect sense. You're video was very helpful.
is there moore than 1 way for the advanced timming unit to be installed
for some reason my points wont make contact
my lobe will not move freely why is that or what might be wrong i was thinking the fly weights may be stuck
is there 1 way for the advanced timming unit (static)
OK, have a 1975 AMF XLH-1000 Sportster and no matter how many times I try, the small lobe is not reaching the point where I can open the points. I have the cam advanced as you show and I have the line on the flywheel in the center of the timing hole. The only way I can get it to work as you show is to have the drilled through hole in the center of the timing hole (which I believe is TDC). Any suggestions? Note: I also checked the advance mechanism many times to make sure the pin is seated properly in the slot.
The flywheel marks actually vary dependent on the year of the sportster so you need to figure out what the marks are for your bike. In addition, aftermarket flywheels have different markings. The easiest way to find the proper 40° before top dead center mark for the front cylinder is to set the rear cylinder on top dead center by looking at the rear piston. With the rear cylinder at TDC you are now at 45°BTDC for the front cylinder. Move it about 5° more to the next Mark. The Ironhead Sporster section of the XLForum is an excellent resource for all thing to do with Sporsters and will defiantly have a resource to find the flywheel marks for your bike.. Here is a link to the technical sticky section of the Ironhead Sporster forum. Check it out, they are a great bunch of guys. Chris
xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=f3ab9fb5dd62581f7c66399d1d0e56ef&t=465866
@@shadowdog500 thanks for the quick reply, will check it out and use your procedure
Bike keeps back firing was told check timing but I don't want to touch it
Need help have 73 ironhead timing slash mark lined up bbut points are not on small lobe cant advance enough to open help
Off the top of my head one of two things could be wrong. If it is near the wide lobe jut rotate the crankshaft another turn and it should come up sear the small lobe. Second is to make sure that your flywheel has the same markings as mine. Harley changed the flywheel markings from time to time and aftermarket flywheels had thier own markings, so it is always good to make sure your marks are the same. This is easy to check. Harley is a 45deg V twin. so the mark for the front cylinder to be 40deg BTDC means that the rear cylinder is 5 deg past TDC. Put the rear cylinder on TDC and slowly rotate the crank forward a little bit and the 40 deg before TDC mark should be the next one to show up in the hole
where does the wire come out of the engine for the condenser? and does it go to the coil after that? I have a 75 iron head that wiring was all cut out when it was given to me. I have it cranking but cant get it to spark. Any help with it would be much appreciated I'm a diesel mechanic and never worked on motorcycles before
The coil wire and the condenser wire both mount onto the points. The coil wire goes through a hole in the bottom of the side cover which is at about 7 o'clock when you look in the side cover with the point cover off. From there it runs to an open area under the back of the side cover. If you push a wire into the hole and go under the bike you should find it. From there I run it back behind the engine, up the frame behind the engine, and up the top bar of the frame to the coil. The +12V from the ignition goes to the hot side of the coil(usually marked with a +), and the wire from the points go to the ground side of the coil (usually marked with a -). If you run an electric tach that also goes on the ground side of the coil. Almost all point ignition systems on any engine are wired this way. Hope this helps Chris.
what is the thread depth on the allen head timing hole screw?
This is perfect!!! Many thanks 🙏🏽
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it! Chris
thanks, thi will be very helpful for me. my points just wore out on my 72 xlch
My 1980 doesn't have the same stuff inside there...it has a bunch of wires attached to my inspection plate...what is this?
You time them on the small lobe or big lobe
Small lobe. Start at 3:57
Ty@@shadowdog500ty
so what if im on the large lobe and not the small lob, what do i need to do to fix?
Pull the engine through another 360º to bring it up on the small lobe. Chris
I used a 12v light since my multimeter did not have a buzz option. One lead to points and other to ground. You have to turn on ignition but works well in that when points begin to open light comes on. Got timing mark dead center, gap set at .018. When I advanced the points forward, light just came on. Thought it was perfect. However, bike would not start, worse than before. I'm thinking maybe I set timing on WIDE lobe. It is a little difficult to tell whether you are coming up on SMALL lobe.OR WIDE lobe since there is not a lot of viewing space with the points in place. There's probably a dozen other things that could be wrong, I did shorten the fuel line to make it more direct, but that shouldn't have done anything other than let fuel flow smoother from tank. Is there a good way to make sure you're coming up on SMALL lobe? As I understand, when timing mark is centered it could be coming up on either lobe. Correct?
No. For the small lobe and use the advance mark , straight line for front cylinder , on the flywheel
@@harolddalesr8365 Thanks Harold, have learned a few things since I wrote that. Now have another problem. Bought a replacement starter relay that stuck in open position and almost started a fire with wire to solenoid, hit a ground to hot trying to fix (my mistake there) and fried solenoid with a loud pop. Hopefully it just burnt contacts and I have a rebuild kit, hoping I can replace contacts and fix on the bike which is a 73 Sporty in this case. Thanks for your comments!
@@someofem take it off the bike and rebuild it
Soliends may have purchased new. When done sit it on the bench and hook up to car/bike battery . Test it , ground wire to starter and red hot wire to soliends
. Just barely touch the hot side on the soliends. If it turns freely , good to go.
@@harolddalesr8365 Thank you Sir! Will give it a try
Thanks
You make it look easy enough. I think I'll still update my 77FLH to electronic though -One of these days anyway
It is easy! Years ago this was common knowledge by anyone who worked on their own car or bike. Adjusting valves, and rebuilding/tuning/balancing carbs didn't have as much mystique back then either. With a little bit if knowledge you could always get home.
That being said, I did put a $150 ultima electronic ignition on mine a year or two after making this video. Everyone on the XL Forum was raving about the Ultima, the price was right, and I liked having a hotter, non waste spark ignition, that allowed you to time the front and rear cylinder independently.
Chris
Yer, but we have become lazy haven't we.. Everything is so easy now. At least a tune up with electronic ignition these days is just an oil change pretty much :)
So, Ultima huh? Bike shop wants to sell be a Daytona - but I think I will do it myself instead, might just go with the Ultima after all now you say this. Thanks
+Ron Hutcheon not sure if we are lazy, we just reached the point that this type of info isn't really needed anymore because the computer does it for you. I like tinkering with stuff like this, but I kind of like the new stuff where an oil change is the entire tuneup. A lot of young Pro mechanics probably wouldn't know what to do if they had an old carbureted point engine come in their shop for repair. I bought that ultima ignition a few years ago and have since sold the bike to help buy a compressor for my new shop (I figured I'd replace my toys I sold to help pay for the shop once I recover from the financial blow of building and equipping a new shop). Ultima may not be the hot setup today. Go to the XL forum and see what those guys recommend today. Just do a search for "ironhead sporster motorcycle talk (1957 - 1985)". And you will find the forum. It is a great bunch of guys with a ton of info on your bike.
Chris
Thank you for the lesson. I have an 83 ironhead but nothing is wired up. I had some accufire electronic points on there before. My bike never ran right or 100% What do you say? These are the mechanical OEM ones right? thanks
You can go with a good set of points. Just be aware that Harley changed the timing marks over the years so make sure you know the proper marks on your bike. Second thing is that about 10 years ago a bunch of people on the XL forum switched to a Ultima single fire ignition system and really liked it. I switched my bike to the ultima ignition and liked it as well. I don’t have the bike anymore and can’t find my records on what one it was but I’m sure you can find it or whatever the current best electronic ignition is on the XL forum, xlforum.net/forums/showthread.php?t=465866
hey great vid. I have an 82 ironhead.
I have a clanking sound that sounds like it could be retarted timing. My ingintion is electric. I guess this process would not work right? or would it?
Excellent job thank you very much !!! Rock ‘n’ roll
Friend just dropped his off for me to work on.he is getting juice to his coil but no spark whatsoever.tried 2 coils,same result.could this be a timing issue?i know my way around cars but never dealt with a bike.i havent made any inspections yet,only been in my garage for about an hour
yaryar1976 DId you ever figure out what the problem was? I have the same issue with my 78 xlch
Yes,it was the magnetic switch/pickup.Not point-type,but the after market magnetic switch that had apparently failed internally.Put a new one on and it fired up on the first try
Hi. Ist owe a 1979 sportster 1000 xlh. trying to Set the Timing points. Did I unterstand IT right, the gap of the breaker is 0.003 inch?
Thanks in advance
The point gap is 0.018" I say that around 1:20 into the video. Hope this helps, Chris
+shadowdog500 Thx for the fast response.
I have a 1984 iron head xlh which is converted to points. I replaced them and she ran great for 3 days then started to misfire a little, so I re adjusted them and now she runs like crap I keep trying different cams and gaps... any advice pleas. ps brand new condenser when fitted points
This is one of those things where someone would have to look at what you are doing. Here are a couple Tip's. The marks on the flywheel changed over the years. Confirm what mark you want to line up on. You want to make sure the front cylinder is in the compression stroke and has the proper cam lobe coming up to the points. I've read that some of the offshore cams have had the lobes ground 180° off. Make sure the points are gapped about the same on both can lobes. If the cam is off center one gap will be wider than the other which would affect the timing of the rear cylinder. If everything is set properly check to make sure it isn't a different problem with your bike. Hope this helps, Chris
There are also videos on how to check for a bad condenser. Chris
Thanx for your advice. it turned out to be a leaking intake manifold so I took her to the shop to fixed and the carb retuned. thanx again for the info it will come in very handy in the future im sure. Spike
Whats the point of setting it to .18 then moving it again
Good question. The first step is to properly set the point gap at the top of a lobe which actually is done as a simple method to get the proper dwell angle. The proper dwell angle ensures that, for the entire operating range of the engine, the points are closed long enough to saturate the coil (which gives good spark) but no so long that it heats up the coil and points(which eventually destroys them). Once the point gap is set to 0.018” at the top of a lobe that setting will not change no mater how much you adjust the timing. The second adjustment is totally independent if the first and is to set the ignition timing so that the points open at the exact crank angle that the spark plug needs to fire. (The spark plugs fire when the points open) If you look at the point cam on an old Harley you will notice that the one lobe is wider than the other. The rear cylinder cam lobe opens the points earlier because the rear cylinder fires 45° ahead of the crank angle where the front cylinder fires, and that lobe is wider to keep the points open a little bit longer so the dwell angle (AKA the crank angle the points are closed) is the same for both cylinders.
Nice informative videos......okay got a 1982 ironhead.....and recently expering bad back firing. ....running like shit....replaced plugs...still doing it.....can it be points or carb issues? .i have a S & S..Carb....and points not electronic ignition.....any information....??
Check your Condenser and your Coil.
Can someone PLEASE tell me what I should do if my points are open when I'm supposedly on the TDC line? I move the plate as far as it will go but can't get it where this video says it needs to be. I on the right mark? 1983 Ironhead.
I'm not using the TDC line in this video, Im using the 40º advance line for the front cylinder. The other thing that gets most people is that the flywheel marks actually vary dependent on the year of the sportster so you need to figure out what the marks are for your bike. The Ironhead Sporster section of the XLForum is an excellent resource for all thing to do with Sporsters and will defiantly have a resource to find the flywheel marks for your bike.. Here is a link to the technical sticky section of the Ironhead Sporster forum. Check it out, they are a great bunch of guys. Chris
xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?s=f3ab9fb5dd62581f7c66399d1d0e56ef&t=465866
Shadowdog500 thank you so much!!
don't forget to make sure that it's on your compression stroke for your timing marks
Great video.
Will this work for a 75 FXE?
Thanks man I learned a little something something
I time my evo big twin 1991choppedelectric starter thanks to your video thanks a lot
When you check it with a timing light after using this procedure does it typically require further adjustment? I would think it should be pretty well set following your video. I know it is best to use a timing light. Just curious. Thanks.
+B. Adams If you do it right it should be pretty much spot on. Chris
If you are going to use a timing light there is a clear plastic plug a bike shop will sell you that you can screw into the timing hole. Without it you will take a shower in oil and not be able to see any marks. It also takes two people as the hole is on one side and the timing unit on the other side. Try to mark the flywheel somehow so you can tell which side of the mark you are on (don't hit the flywheel). I've never had a problem using the static procedure outlined by shadowdog.
What do you use as a gauge?
Jacob Zeise You use a feeler Gaige. Chris
Thanks let me know when you do! I need to do a starter on mine so I guess I will learn as I go? I Guess that is the best way?
thank u so much for this
is the shovelhead timing the same as the ironhead? thanks for reply in advance!
+Marlene Stott Unfortunately, my reply is "I don't know" since I've never owned a Shovelhead. I cant see why static timing a shovelhead would be different, but even if it is the same procedure, you want to find out if they use different marks to mark full advance. Chris
There are variations on shovelheads but I think, if the shovelhead has points, the procedure is the same. Early shovels had a distributer and later ones were called "cone" engines and the cone engines are similar to ironheads. Check out the videos under "tatro machine" on youtube. He uses the same procedure as here on several shovels. As noted by shadowdog the flywheel markings will vary some and you need to know which mark to line up in the window.
Super Helpful!
Great video!
super cool guide!!!
@KDN990 This procedure will work on your '74 irohnead. but I do advise people to confirm that the 40deg advance mark by pulling the rear cylinder to TDC and looking for the mark nearest the hole. If someone rebuilt your bottom end with an aftermarket flywheel or one from a different year the marks may be different.
On a 77 sportster shovel I owned I ust set the points at 0.010 or a little greater (they run better at 10 but last much long at 15) and aust it on the higher lobe. Then slightly loosen the two crews holding the timing plate and start the engine and adust it where it ra best at a higher idle of about 1200 rpm and then drop idle to regular idle and verify it ran okay there. No checking the two marks in the window at all. My way works better because it works in agreement with carburetor type and air mixture settings on your particular carb and if its off it will show white on your plug electrodes and if correct will show light grey on your plug electrodes. My way is also best because it agrees with your engine balance which can be off slightly and agrees with your altitude area
No such thing as a sportster shovel.
Sure there is. We call them Ironheads. Visual style is Shovel-like... so plenty of folks call them that.
Doesn't matter if it's "wrong", it still happens.
You state WE as in YOU, WE WHO? NOT TRUE. From flat head to knuckle head to pan head to shovel head is descriptive of its rocker holder cover design. Shovel head sportster is 1958 to 1984 and yes it does matter because it classifies the ERA and makes known its 4 cam for sportster and single cam for big twin. Iron head can mean any Harley from 1914 to 1984 having an iron head and doesn't signify. It matters very very very much same as the description of saying iron head Ford V8 but never saying whether its flat head or OHV or Y Block or Windsor or Cleveland or Fe series.
Hey.. I'm an TH-cam expert, ok? (I've learned everything I know from TH-cam!)
Anyways.. only Harley I've seen being called "ironhead" on here is the pre-Evo Sportsters.
Of course there are other models that have cylinder heads actually made of iron, but the "name" ironhead seems to primarily be reserved for the pre-Evo Sportsters. Right or wrong, I have no idea.
Ha! I just opened this page to read comments then went in the other room for dinner not realizing that the video was running. After about 8 minutes into dinner, my wife and I started wondering where the heck this loud beep was coming from. :)
Great info ! CHEERS !!!
thanks ,very well done
That's what I thought...I'm new to all this...Does that mean that I don't need to fool with any of this?
Leave it alone all you gotta do is change spark plugs
Great job.
@muckman46 Yes, that would work fine.
My apologies. I failed to clearly explain that timing is advanced until the engine starts to struggle then moved the timing plate back 1/8". It works; honest.
This applies to a stalk 5 ohm coil, stalk plug wires, but what if the ignition system was set up to have 0 ohms, how far off would it throw everything in the books off, my timing was always too far advanced when going by this, my spark is faster, so id have too retard timing from stalk spec's, but by how much, it seemed like my plate had no more room to turn, was maxed out one way, unless timing from the front cylinder first would couse it to be too far advance,,or both. In combination. Great video. This mad scientist needs too know whats possible thats not in the books.
Thank you.