I think a transformer with 12*2 would be better , no need for any other voltages outta the transformer because i believe let em apart would lead the transformer to be burnt or just losing its efficiency. tell me if your bench power worked well, i need one for my lab and ty
Hi, nice work I have one question can you tell me, what the value of resistor you use between the output pen6 of ic u1 and the potentiometer p1, and what is this meant for.
If she is using the original control circuit, the error amifier multiplis by 3 the reference voltage. P1 is 10k. The reference voltage is around 10V. So, I think she is using a 4.7k resistor, considering that the max output voltage shown was around 20V.
I built this myself and I wanna say thank you but the amp and volt meter board are not completed in the final design. For example the amp limiting relay can't work in low voltage or when you withdrew big current the relay and micro controller shuts down as the voltage drops in output. Also the amp meter doesn't go to zero. It stays around 0.11 amp. Of course I fixed all these problems and it works perfectly now. I also added negative voltage to this project. But it would be perfect if you fixed all these problems in your schematic.
Thank you. Are you the developer of this stabilizer circuit? on the relay - the board is powered by a separate 12 volt source and the relay operates correctly at any output voltage.
Using the rated output from power transistors is fatal. They quote an instantaneous load. Iv'e been through the 2N3055's, TIP35C's , etc and none like more than 30 W for very long. Running diodes in parallel is also asking for trouble as one will always hog the current until thy have all blown. The best I have found is the standard 50A bridge that's very cheap. I am at present converting (or trying to ) an old Monacor 120 W 40 V DC line audio amp into a 120 W power supply (TIP35C's) but I'm adding 2 fans. There are quite a few videos on TH-cam showing repairs to power supplies usually it's the power transistors that have blown. I also use SMPS. Banggood do a nice 60 V DC 400 W one that would probably melt at 400 W but otherwise seems fine. Their output is not suitable for many applications though. Other than that this young lady has done her best and that's all any of us can do.
I think this channel uses a translation service of some sort. I don't think the person doing these actually speaks English. I've never seen him actually post on comments on any of his videos. If your salvaging the power supply from an old amp, why aren't you using the rectifier from the amp? I don't have much experience building with very large current pass transistors. However I have a gigantic old Fluke programmable lab supply from the mid 80's that I was given for parts. I haven't reverse engineered the circuit, but they were using 6 3055's for the output back then and this was their top of the line stuff that ran about $5500-$6000 depending on options.
I am using the rectifier from the amp, I was just pointing out that it's not a good idea to parallel diodes. I have a 40 V AC 100 A transformer. Why anyone would want a power supply that big I cannot imagine but it looks like 50 A is the biggest bridge I can find. Might run the odd LED or two. LOL
jp I agree about the parallel diodes. I think this channel tries to focus on upcycled components and finding high current diodes can be challenging. Automotive alternators are probably a good starting point. However, if you do a search for "welder rectifier" you will find many high current options and even a few low cost options.
Probably the ICs got destroyed too. I had a similar problem. If you are using a 24vac x 1.41, the peak voltage will be around 34v, plus the negative 5 reference voltage..is almost 40V...that is higher than the maximum operating voltage that those ICs can handle. I put a lm317 in order to limit the maximum voltage at 35V, rail to rail....the drawback is that I am not able to get 30V at the output...but at least, it works without smoke.
The transformer is the only real expense. The easiest and cheapest way to salvage an equivalent transformer is to use multiple transformers, rectify each of the secondaries and then wire each secondary in series like a battery. I like to upcycle audio or car charger transformers to get higher current on the cheap.
samıh savdır That sounds like a good place to find one. I try to buy up any car battery chargers I can find at thrift stores and garage sales. They seem to be the most common 6-10amp transformers I have come across on the cheap (I have 3 spares currently sitting on a parts shelf). I don't pay more than $5 for one. Audio transformers are usually more versatile as they tend to have more complex secondary windings for dual polarity preamps/op amps and a high current winding(s) for the power amp(s) itself. Another super cheap option to keep an eye out for are the low power lawn lighting type control boxes. Some of them have large high current transformers. Most people in second hand stores have no idea what they are or what to price them. I've picked up a couple of those for $2 each, weather proof enclosure and all. The ones I have look like they belong in welders... massive ;)
I like the aesthetics of clean minimalist design personally. Which is something that your kludge transformer scheme offends greatly. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but that I'd rather not build it if it is going to be so hideous.
![DIY BenchSupply [1/2]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZZFIRvxPbyQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent project. I can't believe that so many thumb down could be possible for such a good project.
I quite enjoy hearing you speak, great video.
Excellent project
Nice job.
great! soy de argentina y me encanta tu canal!
Really, really nice!
Excellent, I want to build this one but the transformer is very expensive for sure. Got to find me a defective UPS to salvage one...
Kasyan- you are in my top 5 youTube channels!!!
I love your videos
Nice job
I love the salvaging of crap into something useful.
fantastic project. 🥳 making things happen with shop materials. 🧐 just as good or better than new stuff. 💤💫👌 thanks.😊
I think a transformer with 12*2 would be better , no need for any other voltages outta the transformer because i believe let em apart would lead the transformer to be burnt or just losing its efficiency. tell me if your bench power worked well, i need one for my lab and ty
What is the value of the resistor added between U1 and P1. At. 3:41
Hi. It is very good project of power supply. I want to ask did you have any power supply pcb layouts with lm723 0-30v and 0-5a? Thanks in advance
Hi, nice work
I have one question can you tell me, what the value of resistor you use between the output pen6 of ic u1 and the potentiometer p1, and what is this meant for.
If she is using the original control circuit, the error amifier multiplis by 3 the reference voltage. P1 is 10k. The reference voltage is around 10V. So, I think she is using a 4.7k resistor, considering that the max output voltage shown was around 20V.
So this is an upgrade based on the popular Hilland PSU, with digital control. I've got one of those boards.
good job what time finished
thank you
I built this myself and I wanna say thank you but the amp and volt meter board are not completed in the final design. For example the amp limiting relay can't work in low voltage or when you withdrew big current the relay and micro controller shuts down as the voltage drops in output. Also the amp meter doesn't go to zero. It stays around 0.11 amp. Of course I fixed all these problems and it works perfectly now. I also added negative voltage to this project. But it would be perfect if you fixed all these problems in your schematic.
Thank you. Are you the developer of this stabilizer circuit? on the relay - the board is powered by a separate 12 volt source and the relay operates correctly at any output voltage.
How you got the schematics
can i get 0-65 volt and 0-10 amp adjustable power supply circuit
please can you tell me this pannel meter maximum voltage and currunt
Excelente
genial
how about 60V 10A power supply with cc and cv regulations? :)
Using the rated output from power transistors is fatal. They quote an instantaneous load. Iv'e been through the 2N3055's, TIP35C's , etc and none like more than 30 W for very long. Running diodes in parallel is also asking for trouble as one will always hog the current until thy have all blown. The best I have found is the standard 50A bridge that's very cheap. I am at present converting (or trying to ) an old Monacor 120 W 40 V DC line audio amp into a 120 W power supply (TIP35C's) but I'm adding 2 fans. There are quite a few videos on TH-cam showing repairs to power supplies usually it's the power transistors that have blown. I also use SMPS. Banggood do a nice 60 V DC 400 W one that would probably melt at 400 W but otherwise seems fine. Their output is not suitable for many applications though. Other than that this young lady has done her best and that's all any of us can do.
I think this channel uses a translation service of some sort. I don't think the person doing these actually speaks English. I've never seen him actually post on comments on any of his videos.
If your salvaging the power supply from an old amp, why aren't you using the rectifier from the amp?
I don't have much experience building with very large current pass transistors. However I have a gigantic old Fluke programmable lab supply from the mid 80's that I was given for parts. I haven't reverse engineered the circuit, but they were using 6 3055's for the output back then and this was their top of the line stuff that ran about $5500-$6000 depending on options.
I am using the rectifier from the amp, I was just pointing out that it's not a good idea to parallel diodes. I have a 40 V AC 100 A transformer. Why anyone would want a power supply that big I cannot imagine but it looks like 50 A is the biggest bridge I can find. Might run the odd LED or two. LOL
jp
I agree about the parallel diodes. I think this channel tries to focus on upcycled components and finding high current diodes can be challenging. Automotive alternators are probably a good starting point.
However, if you do a search for "welder rectifier" you will find many high current options and even a few low cost options.
Can y use 2×2n3055 as a power transistor on this or what he recomendet PLS y need to know
Kasyan TV can you show how to make 230VAC ---> 24VAC 4A/8A transformer?
can you make smd rework station sir......
how to open *lay6??
I bought the same kit, but destroyed it :(
The "power transistor" got to hot. I replaced it, but it still doesn't work.
can somebody help me ??
Probably the ICs got destroyed too. I had a similar problem. If you are using a 24vac x 1.41, the peak voltage will be around 34v, plus the negative 5 reference voltage..is almost 40V...that is higher than the maximum operating voltage that those ICs can handle. I put a lm317 in order to limit the maximum voltage at 35V, rail to rail....the drawback is that I am not able to get 30V at the output...but at least, it works without smoke.
Excellent project but a little expensive for a hobbyist.
The transformer is the only real expense. The easiest and cheapest way to salvage an equivalent transformer is to use multiple transformers, rectify each of the secondaries and then wire each secondary in series like a battery. I like to upcycle audio or car charger transformers to get higher current on the cheap.
Upcycle Electronics old ups tramsformer good is free or cheap
Upcycle Electronics, I see, that is how you do it, thanks
samıh savdır
That sounds like a good place to find one. I try to buy up any car battery chargers I can find at thrift stores and garage sales. They seem to be the most common 6-10amp transformers I have come across on the cheap (I have 3 spares currently sitting on a parts shelf). I don't pay more than $5 for one.
Audio transformers are usually more versatile as they tend to have more complex secondary windings for dual polarity preamps/op amps and a high current winding(s) for the power amp(s) itself.
Another super cheap option to keep an eye out for are the low power lawn lighting type control boxes. Some of them have large high current transformers. Most people in second hand stores have no idea what they are or what to price them. I've picked up a couple of those for $2 each, weather proof enclosure and all. The ones I have look like they belong in welders... massive ;)
I like the aesthetics of clean minimalist design personally. Which is something that your kludge transformer scheme offends greatly. I'm not saying it wouldn't work, but that I'd rather not build it if it is going to be so hideous.
there is no point in isolating the gates of the transistors from the heatsing.Even in your deaign there is still conection from the screw.
so i'm guessing it's not actually the narrator that makes these parts judging by the hairy arms lol
You never know nowadays, tablets, ops, etc. You don't know what you're getting in the box of chocolates.
sahe really needs to link it in english as well.
make it switch mode. much more lightweight and portable
did she really said 0,1 ohmmeter?
yes she did lol
chris alpha Your not hearing things, I caught that too.
No source code or BOM.
12v battery charger made
all pcb and diagram file send to video pic file
second
Yo esperaba una fuente de laboratorio conmutada como un "buck converter" variable de 300W :(
Esa respuesta esta en Dronebox workshop ahi tienen la fuente con un buck converter y es mas reciente.