Jocke, I arrived at this video because my f800r headstock bearings are gone, but then I realised that I recognise you from OxRUG/OGN meetups years back! Great to see you again, and thanks for the useful info!
Hey Ben! Good to hear from you! Hope the video helps you with fixing the bike. We have owned ours for almost 12 years now. Feel free to ask any questions if you have any. Take care, mate!
Jocke! You're just amazing, I cant stop watching your videos. The way you describe every step, so clear and easy, really help all the "DIY lovers" community! Pls keep going on!
Well done, The bearings were replaced at 24,000 kms on my F800r. After that I always torqued them every 10.000 kms and then traded the bike in with 100, 000 kms and they were still good. BMW added torquing the bearings as part of the service requirements.
Oh my, that's a lot of money! I haven't got the faintest idea of the prices, been doing everything myself all along. Can't even imagine how much money I've saved that way.
Just completed the job. Your vid helped make it pretty straight forward; excellent instruction. I got stuck trying to pound the new bearings onto the lower clamp; not the right tools and afraid to cause damage with the wrong. A local machine shop helped me out and seated them in no time.
Excellent news! Well done! Seating the lower bearing takes some determination and being quite swift after heating it up. Glad you managed to get it done with some help. Thanks for watchin'! 😎👍🏻
Jocke, excellent series in general- this vid especially. I replaced the head bearings in my 2015 GS 800 at 18,500 miles with an OEM set, then again at 26,500 miles, but this time with aftermarket which are (supposedly) longer lasting. Presently at 31K miles with no sign of trouble.
Thanks for the comment! I hope your headstock bearing will last a lot longer than that. I think mine lasted ~30,000 miles or so?! I think the key is to re-adjust them a few times after they've bedded in. 3-4 times should do the trick. Keep me posted on how you're getting on with the new set.
Your youtube channel is really help to me! I want to express my appreciation but i am not good at English:( Thanks for upload great video From South Korean fan haha
@@JockeSelin sorry, i don't know how its called the number that appear on the side of the bearings or the box to identify them, by the way, greetings from colombia,
@@juandavidg48 ¡Hola Colombia! I don't know the bearing number. It might be: ZZ31941, and the BMW part number might be: 31 42 7 663 941, you have to look this up yourself. I got this information from www.motobins.co.uk/ They sell both the bearings and the cap. Maybe you can call your BMW dealer? Or maybe you have a local bearing specialist that you can take your old bearings to? Good luck!
@@JockeSelin yes, there are many only-bearings stores here, way cheaper and good brands, dealers are really expensive here, around 10x the price on the store a mentioned
The Haynes manual says you should temporarily install the forks and wheel when changing or inspecting the bearings. When adjusting they say that the top yoke pinch bolts should be loose as should the steering stem clamp bolt, the front wheel should be on the ground. Then do the adjustment. So this is how you should do it. As you can see in the video this is now how I've done the installation. It made no sense to me to interfere with the torque so the initial install was done without any hindrance from bike weight, forks, etc. However, the subsequent adjustments have been done with the forks in place and just as described above. The adjustments after the initial install are crucial, IMO. To summarise; Follow the manual. 😎👍🏻 Hope that clears things up.
Apologies for the late reply. I don’t know, but I think I used a 1 3/4” tube or something. If you can find the bearing specifications, it’ll obviously be slightly larger than the inner diameter. Sorry I don’t have much more help at this point. I hope you find a good tube! Let me know if you need more information, and I’ll try to look harder!
I do it just so that the triple clamp won't interfere with the torquing of the headstock bearing. I don't know if it would make a difference, but I don't think it's worth chancing.
Many thanks for the video. I just have a question. Should I change both of them or changing only bottom/top is enough? Someone told me that top or bottom is enough. Which one is necessary I don’t know:)
Hi, thanks for your question. I don't really see any reason to only change one bearing. They are sold in pairs when you buy a kit, and even if you'd buy them separately the cost wouldn't be that much to replace both versus just one. Sure, if one bearing is in good condition, then there's technically no reason to change both, but for the time and effort it takes to get to the bearings, I don't see a reason to change just one. Also keep in mind the safety aspect; this is your steering and I'd highly recommend you consider keeping it all in top condition rather than saving a little bit of money Thanks for watching and hope the bearing change goes well!
Thank you for your replying. Definitely requires lots of effort to reach the bearings. For that reason it makes more sense to change both of them. You are right. I just bought bearings. We’ll see :)
Yes, loosen the top pinch bolts on the forks, also the centre pinch bolt and then adjust, re-tighten according to the manual and re-torque it all. I'd recommend you do it at least one more time, perhaps around 1500km after this time. 😎👍🏻
The bearings are common bearings, you just need to know the specification. You can buy them off BMW, eBay or independent BMW specialists, such as Motorworks (?) in UK. The only specific part is the cup under the bearing at the bottom, that's a BMW specific part, but it's not very expensive.I do not want to recommend incorrect bearings for you, therefore it's best you acquire the correct bearings for your bike. I hope that helps enough.
Make sure you've got a sharp-ish thing to bash them with. An old screwdriver that's got a fairly good edge would work. Then make sure you've not bashed them so that they're skewed in the location - if they're wedged, they're not going anywhere. Then make sure you bash them, firmly, and all around the edges. Naturally, you need to know you're bashing the right spots too. Heat on the headstock helps, as does cold on the bearing races you can get freezer sprays, or you can DiResta a can of "air" upside down and it'll work as a coolant. Good luck!!
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Just replacing the bearings on my 2010 F800GS. Indeed using a heatgun and a few taps and the bearing races fell out. Thanks very much!
You’re very welcome! Glad it worked! 🤟🏻😎👍🏻
If all motorcycle macanics worked with this care to detail,
The world would be a better place 👍
Thank you for the very kind words. Let's hope it inspires more and more people to take care of their bikes. 😎👍🏻
one of the bestbest instructional videos I have seen, thankyou
Thanks for the kind words! I’m very pleased you liked the video! 😊👍🏻👍🏻
Jocke, I arrived at this video because my f800r headstock bearings are gone, but then I realised that I recognise you from OxRUG/OGN meetups years back! Great to see you again, and thanks for the useful info!
Hey Ben! Good to hear from you! Hope the video helps you with fixing the bike. We have owned ours for almost 12 years now.
Feel free to ask any questions if you have any. Take care, mate!
Jocke! You're just amazing, I cant stop watching your videos. The way you describe every step, so clear and easy, really help all the "DIY lovers" community! Pls keep going on!
Thank you very much for the kind words, Moises! Very much appreciated. I’m very pleased to hear the videos are being useful! 😎👍🏻
Well done, The bearings were replaced at 24,000 kms on my F800r. After that I always torqued them every 10.000 kms and then traded the bike in with 100, 000 kms and they were still good.
BMW added torquing the bearings as part of the service requirements.
That’s very good to know. Thank you and thanks for watchin’! 😎👍🏻
My F800R needed new bearings at 19,000 km. I've just replaced them.
@@femalegarage ..wonder how much BMW charging for this job ??
I believe they charge around $/€/£500 for the job. It could be more, my information is probably outdated.
Oh my, that's a lot of money! I haven't got the faintest idea of the prices, been doing everything myself all along. Can't even imagine how much money I've saved that way.
Just completed the job. Your vid helped make it pretty straight forward; excellent instruction. I got stuck trying to pound the new bearings onto the lower clamp; not the right tools and afraid to cause damage with the wrong. A local machine shop helped me out and seated them in no time.
Excellent news! Well done! Seating the lower bearing takes some determination and being quite swift after heating it up. Glad you managed to get it done with some help. Thanks for watchin'! 😎👍🏻
Jocke, excellent series in general- this vid especially. I replaced the head bearings in my 2015 GS 800 at 18,500 miles with an OEM set, then again at 26,500 miles, but this time with aftermarket which are (supposedly) longer lasting. Presently at 31K miles with no sign of trouble.
Thanks for the comment! I hope your headstock bearing will last a lot longer than that. I think mine lasted ~30,000 miles or so?! I think the key is to re-adjust them a few times after they've bedded in. 3-4 times should do the trick. Keep me posted on how you're getting on with the new set.
Thank you Jocke. :)
You're very welcome! Hope it was useful. 😎👍🏻
Many thanks for the very clear video, I learned a lot. Thanks
You're very welcome, Dudley! I'm pleased to hear it was useful. 😎👍🏻
Your youtube channel is really help to me!
I want to express my appreciation but i am not good at English:(
Thanks for upload great video
From South Korean fan haha
Thank you! My Korean is much worse than your English. I’m pleased to hear the videos help you. One day I will travel Korea. 😎👍🏻
This video has been really enjoyable to watch! Thank you very much indeed.
Thank you for you comment and watchin’! I’m pleased to hear the video was useful. 😎👍🏻
Thanks Mr. Seling, berry useful video
You're very welcome, Fernando! THanks for watchin'!
Thank You very much for this video. I really appreciate this.
You’re very welcome, I’m glad it was of use! 😎👍🏻
Excellent video's, thank you! Did you have the front tyre mounted the wrong way round? They look Karoo's to me.
Thanks! Sorry I can’t remember anything about the tyres as it was a friend’s bike, but Karoo sounds familiar.
😬👍🏻
Great video, very helpful actually, what is the reference of the bearings?
Thank you very much! I don't really understand the question? You can usually find bearing sets on eBay and similar places.
@@JockeSelin sorry, i don't know how its called the number that appear on the side of the bearings or the box to identify them, by the way, greetings from colombia,
@@juandavidg48 ¡Hola Colombia!
I don't know the bearing number. It might be: ZZ31941, and the BMW part number might be: 31 42 7 663 941, you have to look this up yourself. I got this information from www.motobins.co.uk/ They sell both the bearings and the cap.
Maybe you can call your BMW dealer? Or maybe you have a local bearing specialist that you can take your old bearings to?
Good luck!
@@JockeSelin yes, there are many only-bearings stores here, way cheaper and good brands, dealers are really expensive here, around 10x the price on the store a mentioned
@@JockeSelin thanks for the info, im going to break down the steering and take the measurements to get them
I thought the torques are suppose to be done with fork in place and wheel on the ground?
The Haynes manual says you should temporarily install the forks and wheel when changing or inspecting the bearings. When adjusting they say that the top yoke pinch bolts should be loose as should the steering stem clamp bolt, the front wheel should be on the ground. Then do the adjustment.
So this is how you should do it. As you can see in the video this is now how I've done the installation. It made no sense to me to interfere with the torque so the initial install was done without any hindrance from bike weight, forks, etc.
However, the subsequent adjustments have been done with the forks in place and just as described above. The adjustments after the initial install are crucial, IMO.
To summarise; Follow the manual. 😎👍🏻
Hope that clears things up.
Do you know what driver dimensions (tube) for the lower triple clamp bearing? Thanks
Apologies for the late reply. I don’t know, but I think I used a 1 3/4” tube or something. If you can find the bearing specifications, it’ll obviously be slightly larger than the inner diameter. Sorry I don’t have much more help at this point. I hope you find a good tube! Let me know if you need more information, and I’ll try to look harder!
@@JockeSelin got it, thank you so much!
Phew! That’s good to know. 😎👍🏻
Why do you have to loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts to re torque the headstock bearings? I am talking about after the initial installment.
I do it just so that the triple clamp won't interfere with the torquing of the headstock bearing. I don't know if it would make a difference, but I don't think it's worth chancing.
Many thanks for the video. I just have a question. Should I change both of them or changing only bottom/top is enough? Someone told me that top or bottom is enough. Which one is necessary I don’t know:)
Hi, thanks for your question. I don't really see any reason to only change one bearing. They are sold in pairs when you buy a kit, and even if you'd buy them separately the cost wouldn't be that much to replace both versus just one. Sure, if one bearing is in good condition, then there's technically no reason to change both, but for the time and effort it takes to get to the bearings, I don't see a reason to change just one.
Also keep in mind the safety aspect; this is your steering and I'd highly recommend you consider keeping it all in top condition rather than saving a little bit of money
Thanks for watching and hope the bearing change goes well!
Thank you for your replying. Definitely requires lots of effort to reach the bearings. For that reason it makes more sense to change both of them. You are right. I just bought bearings. We’ll see :)
I think that’s a wise decision. I’m sure it will all go well. Let me know how you got on with it all. Good luck! 😎👍🏻
hi.. i've changed the bearing 800km ago. to re-adjust do i have to loosen the Bolts of the upper forks too!? thanks a lot..
Yes, loosen the top pinch bolts on the forks, also the centre pinch bolt and then adjust, re-tighten according to the manual and re-torque it all. I'd recommend you do it at least one more time, perhaps around 1500km after this time. 😎👍🏻
@@JockeSelin thanks Man!!!
@@davider.1925 Happy to help! 😎👍🏻
Did you grease the bearings?
Yes. Headstock bearings need to be greased.
May I know where to buy the headstock of F800gs. Is the F700gs same as F800gs?
The bearings are common bearings, you just need to know the specification. You can buy them off BMW, eBay or independent BMW specialists, such as Motorworks (?) in UK. The only specific part is the cup under the bearing at the bottom, that's a BMW specific part, but it's not very expensive.I do not want to recommend incorrect bearings for you, therefore it's best you acquire the correct bearings for your bike. I hope that helps enough.
Trying to do this now but getting those bearing races out is proving impossible.
Make sure you've got a sharp-ish thing to bash them with. An old screwdriver that's got a fairly good edge would work. Then make sure you've not bashed them so that they're skewed in the location - if they're wedged, they're not going anywhere. Then make sure you bash them, firmly, and all around the edges. Naturally, you need to know you're bashing the right spots too. Heat on the headstock helps, as does cold on the bearing races you can get freezer sprays, or you can DiResta a can of "air" upside down and it'll work as a coolant.
Good luck!!
@@JockeSelin Yeah I think mines a bit skewed, one lip is showing more than the other. I'll figure out a way eventually.
If it’s skewed, then it’s locked itself in there. Try bashing it on the opposite side, or bash it back in.
@@JockeSelin I got it out. I bought a longer screwdriver and bigger hammer and then it came out fairly easy
Excellent! Good work! Hope the rest goes well!