Cross Section Drawing Rod - Part 2: Sash Window Restoration
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ส.ค. 2024
- Cross Section Drawing Rod - Part 2: Sash Window Restoration
In Part 2 I am working through the process of a cross sectional drawing of the sashes I am about to make and also drawing the sash frame on so you can see how the boxes are arranged in a cross section compared to what can be seen from the outside in part 1.
I hope it all makes sense and anything you have a question about please ask and I will do my best to answer.
Watch part 3 - • Making Replacement Sas...
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This is the BEST window video I've seen. Most don't show the details. This is the first I've come across using double glazing. Great Job!
Cheers Paul! I've had some great feedback from this, some.of the door videos and the oak casement window one too
Absolutely master class
wow, what a phenomenol guide and explanation. Thank you
Cheers LEe, im working on the indepth sash series at the minute.
Good video, thanks
Cheers 3 haha!
your skills with sketchup are nearly as impressive as your joinery. \great video very informative
Chers Pete, always learning on that program!
Very informative. I've always wanted to learn how sash windows work and this has really helped me. Being so late into my new career I don't get shown many things properly. Thank you for taking the time to share this 🙏❤️
Thanks Chris
Again, thanks so much for taking the time. Very informative. Capillary drip grooves are very often overlooked items! I've always just done them with a saw blade kerf, but am having Whitehill make me a knife set with 3 and 4mm radius profiles for a neater job. They make a dedicated carbide head for big volume producers but with my volume, HSS knives will last my career.
Cheers mate, appreciate it. I think it is a Whitehill block I have from memory, takes a circular carbide insert that you turn around as and when it dulls\chips. They are best being a smooth curve than a square cut, the paint will last longer on a smooth curved surface than a right angle saw keef type cut, so will be money well spent
Also like the interior glazing and elimination of the putty on the outside.
Cheers Paul, I like to glaze this way as you get an uninterrupted paint surface on the exterior
Thank you, great explanation
Thanks, Glad it was helpful!
Hello Again, thanks for sharing this, this is an amazing resource. From computer to real windows very impressive.
Just watched all the way through, thanks very much and very impressive drawing skills. That install video would be amazing.
Thankyou Sean. Hopefully get the next video made soon!
Great playlist.. thankyou very much!
Instead of trying to flip your bead along axis, just use the scale tool, grab the face you want to flip , drag it to the opposite side and type in -1. It's much quicker.
Sweet David I'll try that one 👌
You see a lot of firms around making sash windows but can't imagine many go into much detail as you.
Thanks buddy! Some things you see are questionable! But equally there are some companies doing stunning work!
Hi there. Great videos. I have refurb'd my sash windows and refitted them so they should be good for another 100 years or so.Unfortunately, the Historical Buildings bods wouldn't countenance the idea of double glazing them ,only permitting "like for like" . the only parts that were beyond hope were the sills. Careful dismantling leaves you with a kit of parts.All the hardware was ok. The only difference to your install was that I replaced the existing lead sill trays as well. I wish this video was around 10 years ago! Cheers.
Hi, Well done on the restoration, its a lot of wrk but soon overcome once you get into it! I have some cills to replace on these and will film it when i get to tackling them...!
Been looking for a video like this for years! Thanks so much for this. I am about to start making new sash windows for our house.
Don't suppose your sketchup files are available?
Hi Richard. I dont i am afraid, but i am in the process of drawing out various window frame sections etc for upload to my Patreon account. Ive not done so yet but will in time.
ah, just got to 20 minutes and see the drainage groove for the sash.
👍
Superb video, thank you so much. We're making replacement sashes for our son's windows and this is by far the best resource I've found.
Can I just ask, why 7 degree bevel at the bottom? Is that to match the existing sill?
Thankyou Miranda, bottom bevel should be standard 9 degrees as a minimum 👍
Is that sketch up or a specific joinery software you are using ? Really great informative episode again thankyou for your time spent doing these
Its sketchup yeah, great tool in my opinion, perfect for woodworking. i see a few transitioning to fusion 360 now but im not sure its necessary for me
Hi there, love the vid very informative and good sketchup skills! What depth are you left with on the top meeting rail for a sash fastener? Cheers.
I cannot remeber but you will need a slim fitting on the top sash. Mighton sell them
I really should learn how to use Sketch-up, I’ve been using Fusion or Inventor as that’s what I know, but it looks so much easier to do joinery/woodwork drafting in Sketch-up.
I like sketchup, i know a few people transition from sketchup to fusion, ive not heard many do the other way around if youve already learnt fusion. But ive no experience of it. im still learning alot in sketchup!!
BRADSHAW JOINERY fusion has its place, it’s great for addictive/subtractive and CNC type of work, but it’s really tricky to draw wood projects in it. If it was Inventor than not a problem, but it’s got this silly component thing, that’s just hard to use.
Hi Bradshaw Joinery, great videos and lovely windows. Can you recommend any books on sash windows with detailed construction methods? thanks and keep up the good work.
HI Jon, not really. i get asked a fair bit about this, but i cannot reccomend anything. Maybe look at the NVQ books on bench joinery level 2/3
Modern practical joinery by George Ellis ,a 1920s book originally but you can get copies off amazon second hand but good quality ,just a fantastic publication doesn’t include double glazing of sashes (not in use at that time ) but none the less excellent book
👍
Thanks
Great videos, thank you! Would you only recommend internal glazing using accoya? Or can it be used on other species of timber. Thanks
Ideally yeah. It can work with others, but i would reccomend fully wet glazing with a polymer sealant if so.
@@BradshawJoinery Thank you! 👍
Hello I was just wondering why these windows are glazed from the inside rather than traditionally from the outside, sorry if you explained it I just missed it. Not concerned about water issues?
As I'm using accoya, there wil be no movement in the timber, the sash can be painted and fully sealed before glazing.
Basically eradicates trying to seal the beading in externally and make sure it is all painted on the beads etc.
Once glazed the outside is seamless and very good against water ingress Vs having lots of beads/joints
Hope that makes sense
Is the tenon on the top rail haunched?
Yes, always try to fit some king of haunch even if it's only 5mm 👍
@@BradshawJoinery Thought so! Does the haunch go full height of the top rail? Top to bottom, or just from the tenon to the top of the rail? I couldn't quite see it in the videos.
Tenon out to the edge of timber. You can mortice it beyond as it'll get cut off anyway. The haunch is the cut down tenon so couldn't run all the way through as you wouldn't have a tenon
@@BradshawJoinery Got you. Thanks! Difficult to explain without a diagram, but I drew the tenon on the top rail as 16mm square, set 11mm in from the bottom of the rail rebate with a 8mm deep haunch out to the top edge. On my rail which is 43mm thick from bottom of rebate to top edge, the haunch comes out 16mm long. This leaves 11mm of flat surface under the tenon. Just wondering if that sounds right or should the tenon start level with the bottom of the rebate so the tenon and haunch run the whole height of the rail? (tenon 16x27mm and haunch 16x16mm)
The tenon edge is formed by the rebate bottom. So what ever depth you rebate out the timber is what your left with for the tenon and haunch. The haunch is basically a tenon cut off