I used to do it the old way where you have to bleed it one by one. I like how you connected both valves and let the air bubbles run back up to the steering. Way more fluid in the lines this way and way more cleaner.
Getting ready to replace the leaking seal glands on my SeaStar and had been wondering about a simple way to bleed the system afterwards. Found this video that makes it easy to understand! Thanks for posting.
@@tractorguru8168 No problem at all. Bought a bleeder/fill hose kit, took 15 minutes to change the seal glands and another 15 minutes to bleed the system. Steering is nice and tight again and no more leaky-leaky seals. And saved a small fortune by not having to get it done at the boat repair shop. Thanks again for the easy to follow video.
It worked.. thx.. I did notice others punch a hole in the hydraulic fluid quart container to let air in and out. This may work better, but definitely a mess when left over fluid leaks everywhere...
Very simple method that works. Save me a bundle as my boat lives on a lift. A mobile marine service call is a minimum of $50. When looking for a kit don't buy into "you must get the best (most expensive) one. (Anyone remember when Monster HDMI cables were pushed really hard?) Only suggestion I may make is a note that the tube used on the steering will retain the fluid.
wondering once you stop seeing bubbles, how to unhook the helm line with the bottle of hydralic fluid attached without spilling or letting air in the line?
Because it’s gravity fed. It’s almost impossible without spilling any. I usually bring the bottle below the line of gravity to remove it from the helm and what’s left over on top reduces the air getting into the system.
Great video. Having a tough time finding where I can buy the tube that goes on the engine. Is that step required, or can you just put the fluid into the reservoir?
In the video, your line that links both bleed fittings is pre-filled with fluid, should I be pre-filling the line with fluid before putting it on or that doesn`t matter? I've also heard of some people punching a hole in the bottom of the fluid bottle to allow air to escape, is that necessary? I feel like that ruins the bottle for future use... Thanks!
The line is prefilled only from previous bleeding. I wouldn’t punch a hole because 1. The air that comes out will replace inside the bottle. 2. The sea star hydraulic fluid is expensive, how are you going to store it if you don’t use all of it?
Sorry found the lit but i thought i would have to open the bleeder screw to let the air out? if I hook up the hose to both fitting , how does the air escape?
You should have a valve at the steering wheel - this is where the air will escape. As you turn the wheel the air will work into the steering wheel reservoir and out through that valve. The air will escape into the bottle replacing it with hydraulic fluid
I have a bass boat and there is a fill cap attached to a filler hose near the windshield. Since I can see the filler hose, can I top off without have to bleed?
Have the same kit. Replaced all the seals and new ram end caps and seals as well. My helm is a tilt, there are actually 2 ports on the underside of the helm. I used the lower reservoir port and elevated the bottle above. My system took very little fluid and I never once saw an air bubble on the helm side and could clearly see the bubbles at the rear. Needless to say, it didn't work out. It does work and after cracking the rears without the hose, I was able to get out some of the air but not all. I have yet to find a video where the helm fill port is underneath. Do I just try the upper or?
@@JustinFraleyJustCatchFish 2 ports on the underside, it is a Sea Star system. I have seen guys say no hole in bottle is necessary and other do it. Hate to waste this fluid by piercing the bottle but at this point I have no idea where to go with it. Or just try the upper helm port, which will be a pain in the azz to work the hose fittling.
I don’t see why not. You risk maybe losing a tool and it will be hard to check from the rear. But if you completed it right the steering should tighten up and you should notice the difference
If you open up the system too much it can still draw in air. You could reclose the system and start the process again but slowly open the system and stop when you notice the housing is open.
I can’t give you a definite answer. I think if the system is set up the same way I don’t see how it wouldn’t. But I’m not a mechanic. Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines!
Simple.. however I am confused at why your motor turned while you were bleeding. If your valves are open at the motor then there would be no pressure to move the cylinders.
You don’t open it ip all the way. When you start to loosen the seal I only make 1/6 turns until it is open enough so air can escape but not enough so fluid can escape.
My outboard doesn’t turn while bleeding either; I wonder what causes that; my baystar system is 2 years old so I wouldn’t think that seals are wore out, but who knows. Any thoughts from anyone?
Typically takes to get set up, bleed, and put away about an hour. I bleed mine about every 3-4 months. It can take longer about 1/2 hour if there’s a lot of air. Thank for watching!
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Yours was by far the easiest and most clear of all I watched, doing my steering today, thanks.
Thanks for watching! Good luck and tight lines!
I used to do it the old way where you have to bleed it one by one. I like how you connected both valves and let the air bubbles run back up to the steering. Way more fluid in the lines this way and way more cleaner.
Nice quick, straight to the point tutorial. Thanks!
Thanks for watching! Good luck and tight lines!
Getting ready to replace the leaking seal glands on my SeaStar and had been wondering about a simple way to bleed the system afterwards. Found this video that makes it easy to understand! Thanks for posting.
How did it work out for you?
@@tractorguru8168 No problem at all. Bought a bleeder/fill hose kit, took 15 minutes to change the seal glands and another 15 minutes to bleed the system. Steering is nice and tight again and no more leaky-leaky seals. And saved a small fortune by not having to get it done at the boat repair shop. Thanks again for the easy to follow video.
It worked.. thx..
I did notice others punch a hole in the hydraulic fluid quart container to let air in and out. This may work better, but definitely a mess when left over fluid leaks everywhere...
Yes it does. I do mine occasionally (twice a season) so it doesn’t take as long. It’s much easier to store because I only use 1/8 of a container.
Excellent concise video with helpful tip on checking if bleeding required. Well done. Thanks!!
Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines!
Very simple method that works. Save me a bundle as my boat lives on a lift. A mobile marine service call is a minimum of $50. When looking for a kit don't buy into "you must get the best (most expensive) one. (Anyone remember when Monster HDMI cables were pushed really hard?) Only suggestion I may make is a note that the tube used on the steering will retain the fluid.
Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines!
Finally a simple easy video. Thx
Thanks for watching good luck buddy and tight lines!
Thank you! I checked for play on my engine as you showed, and there was a lot 😅 maybe that explains the fishtailing when I’m idling along
Thanks for watching
Great show and very well explained I will try that thank you very much fro Sydney Australia
Thank you for watching!
It was dumb!
It was obvious!
It was pointless!
It was...short.
I loved it!!!!
This worked great! Thanks for posting
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the simple and direct instructions. EzzzePeezeee
Thanks for watching
Thanks! Just saved me $500
It has saved me a ton of time and money as well. Thanks for watching!
Great video, easy to understand!
Thanks for watching. Good luck and Tight Lines
Can I use this method for a new installed system too? Thanks for a great video!
wondering once you stop seeing bubbles, how to unhook the helm line with the bottle of hydralic fluid attached without spilling or letting air in the line?
Because it’s gravity fed. It’s almost impossible without spilling any. I usually bring the bottle below the line of gravity to remove it from the helm and what’s left over on top reduces the air getting into the system.
Great video. Thank you
Thanks for watching
Great video. Having a tough time finding where I can buy the tube that goes on the engine. Is that step required, or can you just put the fluid into the reservoir?
You’ll have to bleed the cylinder with that kit. Walmart online has them. You’ll have to get the right fluid as well
In the video, your line that links both bleed fittings is pre-filled with fluid, should I be pre-filling the line with fluid before putting it on or that doesn`t matter?
I've also heard of some people punching a hole in the bottom of the fluid bottle to allow air to escape, is that necessary? I feel like that ruins the bottle for future use... Thanks!
The line is prefilled only from previous bleeding. I wouldn’t punch a hole because 1. The air that comes out will replace inside the bottle. 2. The sea star hydraulic fluid is expensive, how are you going to store it if you don’t use all of it?
Perfect my thoughts exactly. Thanks for the quick reply :)
My favorite part about this is the bubbles going back into the system.
It’s a gravity feed so they will work out eventually just a bit of work. $30 kit vs. $250 mechanic trip.
Sorry found the lit but i thought i would have to open the bleeder screw to let the air out? if I hook up the hose to both fitting , how does the air escape?
You should have a valve at the steering wheel - this is where the air will escape. As you turn the wheel the air will work into the steering wheel reservoir and out through that valve. The air will escape into the bottle replacing it with hydraulic fluid
@@JustinFraleyJustCatchFish Thank you so much for responding
@@smeg8557 my pleasure
I have a bass boat and there is a fill cap attached to a filler hose near the windshield. Since I can see the filler hose, can I top off without have to bleed?
Have the same kit. Replaced all the seals and new ram end caps and seals as well. My helm is a tilt, there are actually 2 ports on the underside of the helm. I used the lower reservoir port and elevated the bottle above. My system took very little fluid and I never once saw an air bubble on the helm side and could clearly see the bubbles at the rear. Needless to say, it didn't work out. It does work and after cracking the rears without the hose, I was able to get out some of the air but not all. I have yet to find a video where the helm fill port is underneath. Do I just try the upper or?
I’ve never seen a bottom one either. Sorry I couldn’t help.
@@JustinFraleyJustCatchFish 2 ports on the underside, it is a Sea Star system. I have seen guys say no hole in bottle is necessary and other do it. Hate to waste this fluid by piercing the bottle but at this point I have no idea where to go with it. Or just try the upper helm port, which will be a pain in the azz to work the hose fittling.
@@commonsense2574sounds like whoever installed the helm installed it 180* out. The fill port should be on top.
Can you do this while the boat is in the water?
I don’t see why not. You risk maybe losing a tool and it will be hard to check from the rear. But if you completed it right the steering should tighten up and you should notice the difference
Do you tighten the bolts again you loosened at the beginning? If so, how tight?
They will need re-tightened. You’ll want them snug; don’t try and over tighten because you’ll have to repeat this process again in the future
Can’t I just get a 5/16 diameter hose from Lowes and hook it over same way and do the same thing?
You could with the connections and all, just make sure you use the sea star hydraulic fluid.
Just did my leaky seals and after turning left and right for an hour there’s still air in the system. Do you have anything else I should look for?
If you open up the system too much it can still draw in air. You could reclose the system and start the process again but slowly open the system and stop when you notice the housing is open.
work on other hydraulic steering systems or seastar only?
I can’t give you a definite answer. I think if the system is set up the same way I don’t see how it wouldn’t. But I’m not a mechanic. Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines!
Simple.. however I am confused at why your motor turned while you were bleeding. If your valves are open at the motor then there would be no pressure to move the cylinders.
You don’t open it ip all the way. When you start to loosen the seal I only make 1/6 turns until it is open enough so air can escape but not enough so fluid can escape.
If your fluid is super low or maybe empty, will that cause the steering wheel to just spin freely without moving the outboard at all? Thanks!
Possibly; you might have a bad seal and need to rebuild it.
What about the push pin/thumb tack that comes with the kit?
@@michaelbell1776 mine didn’t come with it; I didn’t require the use of one. Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines!
My outboard doesn’t turn while bleeding either; I wonder what causes that; my baystar system is 2 years old so I wouldn’t think that seals are wore out, but who knows. Any thoughts from anyone?
Did you open the line the hyd hose goes to? or the fitting the bleeder hose goes to?
On my boat there is two fittings that I hook the single hose to. Those fitting have a nut that you turn to open them up.
Good vid, how long did it take to to bleed the system that way?
Typically takes to get set up, bleed, and put away about an hour. I bleed mine about every 3-4 months. It can take longer about 1/2 hour if there’s a lot of air. Thank for watching!
HI can you tell me where I can get that kit? I cant find it! Thanks!!
See where you found it … make sure you get the correct fluid.
What if I don’t have a plug on my helm??
With the sea star system there has to be hydraulic line from the wheel to the motor. You’d have to bleed the system some how.
Thanks great tip
Thanks for watching! Good luck and Tight Lines!
Couldn't tell the difference in the play in the first shot vs end results.
It’s really hard to show the pressure
Thanks you 👍
Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines
Awesome content
Thank for the love!
We got a saying up here.
Tight lines and sore heads
I don’t get the sore heads?
Thank you!!!!
Thanks for watching
It’s pliers not a wrench
Hahha
funny how you did not even address the air in the motor clear line you added and how it was removed at the end.
You just keep turning the wheel until it’s gone. The air will find its way to the helm eventually. Thanks for watching good luck and tight lines
Most important part was how to put the cap on without having more bubbles!
Sorry I left that out
Not how Seastar instructs anyone
I haven’t had any issues and it has saved me a ton of money. Thank you for watching, good luck and tight lines
That’s an odd looking crescent wrench.
👍🏻🇨🇦
Wrong
What’s wrong?