Adam, you are a very humble and genuine man and that Sir is most appreciated. One thing I would ask though is that when someone is questioning what you are doing using a coaxial indicator instead of a digital readout, please, do not be apologetic. You are doing the work the way a real machinist would do it. Digital readouts are nice to have and most, if not all new machines, come with such things but the many of your viewers are here to see how to do it without as they cannot afford new machines or the many technical luxuries available and they need to know the time honoured and proven methods that you show. Always remember the simple axiom "There are many teachers about the world at large but there are few people who are extraordinary and gifted enough to educate." I for one choose to get my education here. Thank You Sir for your valued lessons.
Thanks guys. The material for the shaft is 4140 , and the roller is a piece of 8" 1018 cold rold. The end plates are plasma cut out of some A36 hot rolled plate. The cutting oil I use is just the old school style dark cutting oil. I cannot remember the exact brand name on the drum but it was sold to me in an Exxon branded drum. I use it for most of my cutting needs.
I haven's done any machine shop work for 30 years, but this has been really inspirational (and made me think that perhaps I've chosen the wrong career) - hope to be able to set up my own shop some time in the next couple of years. Thanks for all the videos.
I use the old school style sulfer based dark cutting oil. I believe mine is labled as Pennix N47, and its sold in an Exxon drum. We've been using this stuff for years and has always worked great for just about any machining operation
You've come a long ways since June of 2013. A bigger shop, a new business, an independent business man with your own company, a travel page, a new wife, and an internet celebrity! Not bad, not bad at all for six years.... Scott
The DoAll mill is a very quiet and tight machine. I am fortunate that it has been used very little throughout its life. Most of our machine work was done on the bigger mills, and we would use this one for small jobs like drilling holes or second ops. I think the step pulley head runs a little quieter then the variable speed head.
Glenn, thanks for the positive support. I am just starting out with my machining videos, but I hope that I can help less experienced guys with some normal machine work like I have to tackle daily. I am trying to be punctual and informative with my descriptions. Hopefully I can add something a little different to whats out there. The towel holder is from Kimberly Clark. I buy those big rolls of towles and they last me a long time. Ive had that roll for almost a couple years now.
I charge my customers $70 per hour. A job like this has quite a lot of hours in it. But many jobs, such as this one, I quote in advance before it gets approved, so no matter how much time I have in it, I get paid my quoted price. Ive been building this part since 2005 and I always charge the same labor plus the materials cost. It changes slightly, but I havnt changed my price since then.
Yes, its the older style dark cutting oil. I have a 55 gallon drum of it I bought a couple years ago from Pucket Oil Co. My dad always bought it that way and when we ran out they had another drum in stock, so I got it. Im used to using it on most all of my machining ops.
What a pleasure to watch someone is is so talented and cares so much for accuracy. You are the best that I have ever seen on TH-cam. I will search out and watch anything that you care to put on eBay. Thank you so much. Thompsr35
That would be tricky to do with the backlash in the leadscrews. The way I do it works good for me. When I get a digital readout bolt circles will be very easy.
Ive been asked this before but I prefer to keep the prices between my customers and I. Customer supplies the bearings and race. Lots of labor goes into this one. Its a big job, but pays well.
I have an old Bridgeport J Type, that I use a 16" dia. Troyke rotary table with it's 14" counterpart cross slide, which are very tall, and so I use a 4" and/or 8" head spacer on the Bridgeport,,, The nice part besides being able to work on tall parts,,, is also being able to stand up straight while turning cranks... I really like the nice finish to give your customers, and I bet they do also! Nice work Adam! :o] O,,,
Adam, I've been watching a lot of your videos. I know this one is very old but you may find this useful. Once you have your bolt circle center drilled, you can relocate your rotary table just as easily as you located each hole with the center point. It doesn't matter if the rotary table is off in either axis. The circle will still be under the spindle. I hope that makes sense. You could also do all four operations before flipping the part. Thanks for the great videos
Hey Adam, Pretty good videos, been reading your thread on PM. Looking forward to seeing more work of yours on here. Video editing/videos look great. Cheers!
I got called into work and it is now 2:45am. Waiting for others to hopefully get something done that I need them to, so decided to watch some of your earlier videos. I don't remember which ones I watched and which I didn't. Your rollers may have been what you were doing when I first started watching.
Adam, love the detail that you are providing! I can't speak for everyone, but us machinist and fab guys love the dialog and working shots you are now providing so we can steal ideas on how other guys make parts. Just watching a part getting faced off is quite boring, but listening to you and others talk through the job really helps people learn the tricks. Thanks for doing these vids. Oh, and I love the paper towel cart. Also, where do we purchase those oil cans? Cheers, Glenn in Spokane
Hmmm, looks almost identical to the thrust roller we manufacture for our calciners, dryers, and granulators! We use timken bearings also. Do you know what piece of equipment this came off of?
Lots of quality stuff to use, but I normally use dark cutting oil for most of my work. You can buy it also as thread cutting oil. Rapid Tap, Tap Magic, and Moly-Dee is also some good stuff to use. One thing to be sure of is not to run your drills too fast, and don't let the drill rub, or dwell in the hole causing heat. That ruins a drill in a second.
Ive never seen the part in operation, but know about what i does from the description the customer has given me. Id rather not disclose info about there operation here.
If you are interested in making more money in your Machine shop invest in a Prototrak Mill. It makes bolt patterns like this a breeze! They are easy to program and fun to use. Best investment I ever made! You do good work thanks for the video!
‘Authentic’. That’s something utterly devoid on 75% (give or take 27.87419%) of the other videos. Much more pleasant to watch (to binge like an addict in a pharmaceutical grade heroin manufacturing plant) and learn a thing or two.
The roller in that video is cold rolled, it was the last of what I had left at that time. The newer ones I'm building is hot rolled because its whats available to me at a lower cost for the cut lengths I need.
Hey Adam, you have one heck of a backyard machine shop. What kind of cutting oil where you using in this video? What kind of material did you choose to make this out of?
Adam, Is that dark sulfer cutting oil you are using? I use quite a bit of that stuff, and I went to my supplier the other day and the stuff now is almost clear. They mentioned there was some mandate to stop making the dark stuff, still has sulfer in it, but is just clear. Just curious. Cheers, Glenn
You know, I have never seen one for sale. I don't know where dad got that center, but it's a handy tool and I use it all the time! It could easily be made by anyone that does tool grinding. Mine has a 3/8" shank, and goes from a point to 1" on 60 degrees. Shadon HKW could possibly make one for you though. he made a couple smaller ones for me from old end mills.
all he is doing is setting the tap in the hole, and letting the rotation of the tap feed itself into the hole, like wise for when he backs it out again. the spindle is just along for the ride and to keep it true and square
Hey Adam, I noticed that there were jaw marks on the OD of that larger part. Did you machine those off? Or are those not critical to the part's function? It was just something I noticed during the video. I haven't watched the other parts yet, but was wondering if you machined those marks out of that OD. Just want to say that I really like your videos so far. I just found out about your channel not too long ago and I'm really enjoying it. I'm a small business owner myself, and any information regarding tools and machining really comes in handy. I'll be sure to check out your other videos as well. You have yourself a new subscriber.
Adam (and everyone else who's willing to share some info), I was wondering.. What is the difference between hot rolled and cold rolled (material properties, etc.)? Does it affect the machining of the part somehow? Thanks :)
The real difference is how the material is formed to shape. Hot rolled has a mill scale on the outside, and its not to perfect size. Cold rolled is formed very close to tolerance, being right on size, and has no scale. Rounds and flat bars usually mic within .001 under the nominal size. Its a nice material to work with, especially if your using flats or squares to make parts. Cold rolled bar stock will typically accept pillow block bearings with no further turning or polishing needed.
Adam is right. The other difference that he didn't mention is that the cold rolling process hardens the metal somewhat. It is really just a surface hardening, it doesn't extend real deep. So any kind of machining will probably remove it. And of course welding or anything else that gets it to a good red heat will also soften it back up.
Adam, you are a very humble and genuine man and that Sir is most appreciated. One thing I would ask though is that when someone is questioning what you are doing using a coaxial indicator instead of a digital readout, please, do not be apologetic. You are doing the work the way a real machinist would do it. Digital readouts are nice to have and most, if not all new machines, come with such things but the many of your viewers are here to see how to do it without as they cannot afford new machines or the many technical luxuries available and they need to know the time honoured and proven methods that you show. Always remember the simple axiom "There are many teachers about the world at large but there are few people who are extraordinary and gifted enough to educate." I for one choose to get my education here. Thank You Sir for your valued lessons.
Thanks guys. The material for the shaft is 4140 , and the roller is a piece of 8" 1018 cold rold. The end plates are plasma cut out of some A36 hot rolled plate. The cutting oil I use is just the old school style dark cutting oil. I cannot remember the exact brand name on the drum but it was sold to me in an Exxon branded drum. I use it for most of my cutting needs.
I haven's done any machine shop work for 30 years, but this has been really inspirational (and made me think that perhaps I've chosen the wrong career) - hope to be able to set up my own shop some time in the next couple of years. Thanks for all the videos.
A nicely finished part makes the customers appreciate your work and will come back to bring you more, as long as you treat them right!
I use the old school style sulfer based dark cutting oil. I believe mine is labled as Pennix N47, and its sold in an Exxon drum. We've been using this stuff for years and has always worked great for just about any machining operation
You've come a long ways since June of 2013. A bigger shop, a new business, an independent business man with your own company, a travel page, a new wife, and an internet celebrity! Not bad, not bad at all for six years.... Scott
The DoAll mill is a very quiet and tight machine. I am fortunate that it has been used very little throughout its life. Most of our machine work was done on the bigger mills, and we would use this one for small jobs like drilling holes or second ops. I think the step pulley head runs a little quieter then the variable speed head.
Glenn, thanks for the positive support. I am just starting out with my machining videos, but I hope that I can help less experienced guys with some normal machine work like I have to tackle daily. I am trying to be punctual and informative with my descriptions. Hopefully I can add something a little different to whats out there.
The towel holder is from Kimberly Clark. I buy those big rolls of towles and they last me a long time. Ive had that roll for almost a couple years now.
I charge my customers $70 per hour. A job like this has quite a lot of hours in it. But many jobs, such as this one, I quote in advance before it gets approved, so no matter how much time I have in it, I get paid my quoted price. Ive been building this part since 2005 and I always charge the same labor plus the materials cost. It changes slightly, but I havnt changed my price since then.
Yes, its the older style dark cutting oil. I have a 55 gallon drum of it I bought a couple years ago from Pucket Oil Co. My dad always bought it that way and when we ran out they had another drum in stock, so I got it. Im used to using it on most all of my machining ops.
Very nicely done! Thanks for taking the time to document and narate the process. Very useful.
I ment to add, the oil cans I use are made by Eagle, and are the No. 66 model. I think they quit making them but you may be able to find them on Ebay.
What a pleasure to watch someone is is so talented and cares so much for accuracy. You are the best that I have ever seen on TH-cam. I will search out and watch anything that you care to put on eBay. Thank you so much. Thompsr35
That would be tricky to do with the backlash in the leadscrews. The way I do it works good for me. When I get a digital readout bolt circles will be very easy.
Ive been asked this before but I prefer to keep the prices between my customers and I. Customer supplies the bearings and race. Lots of labor goes into this one. Its a big job, but pays well.
Thanks. Oil cans are made by Eagle and are the No.66 models. I think Eagle stopped making them though. You may find them on ebay.
I have an old Bridgeport J Type, that I use a 16" dia. Troyke rotary table with it's 14" counterpart cross slide, which are very tall, and so I use a 4" and/or 8" head spacer on the Bridgeport,,, The nice part besides being able to work on tall parts,,, is also being able to stand up straight while turning cranks... I really like the nice finish to give your customers, and I bet they do also! Nice work Adam! :o]
O,,,
My plan is to buy a Newall. Thats what Ive had one two of my mills and one of the lathes at work. I like them and I'm used to the controls.
Excellent series greetings from Winnipeg Canada
Adam, I've been watching a lot of your videos. I know this one is very old but you may find this useful. Once you have your bolt circle center drilled, you can relocate your rotary table just as easily as you located each hole with the center point. It doesn't matter if the rotary table is off in either axis. The circle will still be under the spindle. I hope that makes sense. You could also do all four operations before flipping the part.
Thanks for the great videos
Hey Adam, Pretty good videos, been reading your thread on PM. Looking forward to seeing more work of yours on here. Video editing/videos look great. Cheers!
I got called into work and it is now 2:45am. Waiting for others to hopefully get something done that I need them to, so decided to watch some of your earlier videos. I don't remember which ones I watched and which I didn't. Your rollers may have been what you were doing when I first started watching.
+ILGopher - Ryan Weishalla The roller series I believe was my first project I shown on the channel.
Adam, love the detail that you are providing! I can't speak for everyone, but us machinist and fab guys love the dialog and working shots you are now providing so we can steal ideas on how other guys make parts. Just watching a part getting faced off is quite boring, but listening to you and others talk through the job really helps people learn the tricks. Thanks for doing these vids.
Oh, and I love the paper towel cart.
Also, where do we purchase those oil cans?
Cheers,
Glenn in Spokane
Just wanted to say thanks for sharing. Looking forward to seeing your next one.
Interesting to know people from half way around the world is watching me work in my small shop.
My wife and I love New Zealand MrRoadshow! That is such a beautiful country. Thank you for the sub and comment.
Today i did it at last 😊 , oldest video first filter☆☆☆☆☆
Gonna bingewatch'm all budy , and thumb them up
Thank you James!
Thank you!
great video just came across your channel keep up the good work greeting from ireland
Hmmm, looks almost identical to the thrust roller we manufacture for our calciners, dryers, and granulators! We use timken bearings also. Do you know what piece of equipment this came off of?
What is the best cutting fluid to use for a drill press that will help me stop burning up my drill bits? Thanks.
Lots of quality stuff to use, but I normally use dark cutting oil for most of my work. You can buy it also as thread cutting oil. Rapid Tap, Tap Magic, and Moly-Dee is also some good stuff to use. One thing to be sure of is not to run your drills too fast, and don't let the drill rub, or dwell in the hole causing heat. That ruins a drill in a second.
Thanks!
Ive never seen the part in operation, but know about what i does from the description the customer has given me. Id rather not disclose info about there operation here.
I have been cussed for using a spiral point tap for a blind hole. Screw em. Still makes the cleanest thread.
If you are interested in making more money in your Machine shop invest in a Prototrak Mill. It makes bolt patterns like this a breeze! They are easy to program and fun to use. Best investment I ever made! You do good work thanks for the video!
Nice to see there are some more Keith Fenners arround here :-)
And you have another one from the island of Malta, south Europe! Just around the corner from NZ!
‘Authentic’. That’s something utterly devoid on 75% (give or take 27.87419%) of the other videos. Much more pleasant to watch (to binge like an addict in a pharmaceutical grade heroin manufacturing plant) and learn a thing or two.
don't know if this has been said, but have tried using layout fluid and a center finder?
I noticed that you said this was hot rolled steel. What is the reason for not using cold rolled steel?
The roller in that video is cold rolled, it was the last of what I had left at that time. The newer ones I'm building is hot rolled because its whats available to me at a lower cost for the cut lengths I need.
Hey Adam, you have one heck of a backyard machine shop. What kind of cutting oil where you using in this video? What kind of material did you choose to make this out of?
Is that a old Sydney lathe in the back corner?
Adam,
Is that dark sulfer cutting oil you are using?
I use quite a bit of that stuff, and I went to my supplier the other day and the stuff now is almost clear. They mentioned there was some mandate to stop making the dark stuff, still has sulfer in it, but is just clear. Just curious.
Cheers,
Glenn
I have had a heck of of time finding one of those centers you used in the mill to spot the holes. Is there a specific name for them?
You know, I have never seen one for sale. I don't know where dad got that center, but it's a handy tool and I use it all the time! It could easily be made by anyone that does tool grinding. Mine has a 3/8" shank, and goes from a point to 1" on 60 degrees. Shadon HKW could possibly make one for you though. he made a couple smaller ones for me from old end mills.
how do you manage to powerfeed while tapping...wht am i missing
all he is doing is setting the tap in the hole, and letting the rotation of the tap feed itself into the hole, like wise for when he backs it out again. the spindle is just along for the ride and to keep it true and square
Hey Adam, I noticed that there were jaw marks on the OD of that larger part. Did you machine those off? Or are those not critical to the part's function? It was just something I noticed during the video. I haven't watched the other parts yet, but was wondering if you machined those marks out of that OD.
Just want to say that I really like your videos so far. I just found out about your channel not too long ago and I'm really enjoying it. I'm a small business owner myself, and any information regarding tools and machining really comes in handy. I'll be sure to check out your other videos as well. You have yourself a new subscriber.
well you got a watcher from new zealand as well now. keep up the good work.
You use that shaper much?
6 years ago...You've come far pilgrim
Adam,
Nice video quality!
Oil cans caught my eye. Where did you get them?
OH! You have the required mask to shorten indexing time. Wonderful.
make yourself a bullnose to clamp directly into a collet for this setup. will be ok within .001, good enough for this accuracy.
Hi Adam
Where can I find those center points you use?
thank you
Fine work
Adam (and everyone else who's willing to share some info), I was wondering.. What is the difference between hot rolled and cold rolled (material properties, etc.)? Does it affect the machining of the part somehow?
Thanks :)
The real difference is how the material is formed to shape. Hot rolled has a mill scale on the outside, and its not to perfect size. Cold rolled is formed very close to tolerance, being right on size, and has no scale. Rounds and flat bars usually mic within .001 under the nominal size. Its a nice material to work with, especially if your using flats or squares to make parts. Cold rolled bar stock will typically accept pillow block bearings with no further turning or polishing needed.
Adam is right. The other difference that he didn't mention is that the cold rolling process hardens the metal somewhat. It is really just a surface hardening, it doesn't extend real deep. So any kind of machining will probably remove it. And of course welding or anything else that gets it to a good red heat will also soften it back up.
Great machine work.You need to wear safety glasses the moment you enter the area.Not a lot of people talk about it.Been in the business 30+ years.
Man i want to work for you ! :D
i can hear you counting in your head: .200, .400, 600, .800...... with each turn of the wheel.
ahh the old school way of getting a job done. lost art form these days. i really do miss it.
coloca legenda em português
what "half-nut" ?
what "hand island" ?
ugg
nice video, but the sad part is whatever motor you have running in the background.exhaust fans?? ruined the video!