thanks! really, it's so hard to get information before buying anything, I want to make a layout for a little 80s Lego town and finally finding easy and organized information is great
Excellent overview. I could have used this 6 years ago when I first heard about 12V trains, but held off due to the complexity of the system. Three years ago I ended up diving head first and eventually figured things out. 9V trains look better, but it's hard to beat the remote control track system of 12V.
Thank you! That's precisely why I made this series, I wanted to explain to people how everything works. There are almost no good guides online on how to set everything up. It's very intimidating to start with 12v from nothing- I know, as I did this 2 years back.
@@Reker1million BrickTsar was about the only TH-cam creator offering practical advice on 12V in English, but it was very limited. I was a bit nervous as to whether everything would work out but it has and I really enjoy the system. It is bit fussy, partly due to age of the parts and partly due to complexity, but Lego did a good job and my setup works fine now that I a) tweaked it and b) understand it.
Lovely Informative Video! I literally just won a ebay auction of a 12 volt lot that included 7735,7866 and 7856, some parts are missing but the locomotive runs! Im very excited to try it all out once it arrives!
Hey good for you! I'm so happy that this video is helping you get knowledge. Let me know how everything goes, if you have questions I am glad to answer them. Welcome to the 12v community!
@@Reker1million it went very well! The lot also included 7860 with all the pieces! Only issues are that the locomotive is missing its traction tyres,the signal controller dosen't stay pressed down and one of the red light bricks dosen't work in the signal cross piece but all the motors and controller do still work so I'm very happy
Yep, I know it was released to Australia and NZ since there were some rare box variants of 7725 and 7740 (UK/F/NL) only released to those areas in 1983-4. However, I think they were rare there, so you were lucky to have 7740!
One thing to comment for those getting started on 12 volts. I purchased a sealed transformer kit. I don't have a "wired curve" metal piece (@3:49) I only have metal pieces with holes for the individual electrical connectors (one on each side). The problem is the transformer came with a cable that has a single double prong connector on each end (one wide to connet to transformer) and one narrow connector, no way to connect that to the metal pieces on the track. The transformer kit did not come with the 96 stud wire with individual connectors you talk about @3:30. So just what I thought I was ready to energize the track I am having to order one of those connectors and wait 2-3 weeks agggg . So, unless you have a wired curve metal track you need to buy the 96 stud long wire with individual connectors.
Oh yeah, thanks for the comment! That is actually a fairly uncommon late release of the transformer- I believe it had the cable with 4 1-prong connectors until about 1987, then it switched to the cable you described (this can be seen in the Bricklink inventory). So yes, if you get the later release of the transformer you cannot power the track out of the box... I don't know why TLG did that. Most train sets should come with the correct cable or a connector rail though, as those parts are part of the inventories for many sets.
Fragmented information can be such a huge problem with older Lego electronics. Glad to see you are making these videos to help with this for Lego 12v trains. Cheers!
Thank you for the comment! Yes, I noticed the same thing when I was getting into 12v, which is why I started this channel. Eventually I'll make a long series about the entire in-depth history of the Grey Era for the true die-hard 12v fans.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking- each transformer has only one jack for remotes. If you mean how to integrate a second transformer into a layout, you'd have to electrically separate the tracks- or, you can use one transformer just for the trains and a second for all the accessories, so you don't lose as much power from running the trains.
In that video I think the transformers are all connected to loops of track which are physically connected with points, but modified isolator rails or defective points which don't conduct electricity are used to electrically separate the 3 loops. I've never modified rails to have double isolating blocks but may do it if I get a second transformer. Check out the comments on that video if you need more information.
I'm not sure, I know the transformers were produced by Buhler, but it would be interesting to know if they put the plugs on when they manufactured the transformers or each country did it after they got shipments.
I just came across your channel and love the videos. I have the 7735 since my childhood. Unfortunately, I am currently working on fixing a few items, in particular the lamps and the control box for one switch track.
Thanks for the comment! There are some threads on Eurobricks about repairing the lights and remotes, those may be helpful if you haven't checked them out yet.
Once again thanks for this wonderful series. Thanks to you and this very informative and inspiring series I just bought my first 12 volt trains. I have coming a 7740, 7745, 7730 and a 7750 hope you approve my starting selection. Still looking for a 7755. I have a couple of questions. With all the remote possibilities is anyone in the 12 volt space using MILS plates? I have a 9 volt layout, 4x7 baseplates, all in MILS plates. Looks like they would be perfect for hiding all those cables. Also, how big is your layout #1. Also is anyone adding sleepers to the tracks to make them look a bit more.....dare I say realistic? I orders a bunch of 2x8 clips to supplement the ones in the sets. I intend (I think) to make 12 volt tracks look like 9 volt or non powered tracks (I may come to regret those plans, some of those clips are not cheap). Any way tanks for the series you truly inspire me (Jesse thanks you I am sure) Looking forward to more unboxing, review and layout videos. Like I told Jesse watching you shunt those cars is poetry in motion!
Thank you for the nice comment! I replied to your other comment as well. 7755 is indeed a very rare set in the condition I got it in, lucky Jesse had one available at the time... patience + scouring BL/ebay is what got me the sets I have today. I'm not sure if anyone uses MILS plates but you could check Eurobricks, there is good info on most train-related things there (it has been an invaluable resource for me). My first layout (and all of my layouts to date) fit on a 4x8 foot table, although Layout 1 wasn't pushing the borders like some of my latest ones. I have seen people adding additional 2x8 dark grey plates (sleepers will not work- you have to use normal plates) in 12v tracks, see this channel: th-cam.com/video/zdkPSmxRrMA/w-d-xo.html Already made another order from Jesse (some boxed remote accessories, no train sets this time), look forward to bigger layouts soon!
Yep, the studs block it from turning all the way. I didn't include it in this video since it's not very relevant, but when I do a full review on 7864 I'll explain that detail.
Very good video! I have a question so is it possible to just take the electrical middle rail and put it on the modern train tracks? Would it run or does it need to be on the old grey tracks?
Thanks for the question! Yes, I think the electric rail insert can be placed into 9v or RC tracks, just make sure to connect it to the transformer. See this video: th-cam.com/video/LK4geFZ0aT8/w-d-xo.html
@@Reker1million Note that in that video, it only worked with straight rails. You can't fit curved conductor rails to curved 9v/PF track without modifying the bricks, and of course points are right out.
Small error in your video- the 12v trains, some of them at least (I can only confirm 7740), were also released in Australia. There exists a 12v transformer variant with the Australian outlet plug though they are hard to come by.
Regarding the conducting track with wire there is a 2731a and 2731b part available. Can you help with what is the difference? The 2731a says it is with a short connector and 2731b with a long. I’m confused and can’t find any further info. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the question! 2731a is the older version, released in 1986 or 1987 I think, and it was replaced by 2731b a few years later. There's no functional difference except the "short connector" is a little slimmer.
I have a question, I have 2 lego transformators , can I use 1 for an inner loop and 1 for the outside loop while both loops are connected with a set of switches or is this not possible?
It's not possible unless you make custom double isolating rails, so the loops are electrically isolated. Or you could just take out one section of 12V conducting rail.
Hi, should the plug for the 12v transformer be a loose fit for the voltage converter? I got a similar model to yours but the EU plug slides out too easily.
I actually had the same issue / situation as you. It stayed in, but could be knocked out easily. Are the plug tines bent towards each other? That could be it.
@@Reker1million The tines are bent towards each other. Which way did you bend them to remedy the issue? And another question about operation. On the voltage box, which voltage setting did you put on before operating?
You could try bending them a little bit away from each other - mine isn't bad enough that I had to do much, it just falls out easily but if I don't bump it it'll stay in. For the voltage converter, you have to put the black connector into the hole that corresponds to the input voltage - so for me in North America, I put mine into the "120V" setting.
thanks! really, it's so hard to get information before buying anything, I want to make a layout for a little 80s Lego town and finally finding easy and organized information is great
Thanks for the nice comment! Even after such a long time creating content, it still makes my day to know that I can help someone out.
Excellent overview. I could have used this 6 years ago when I first heard about 12V trains, but held off due to the complexity of the system. Three years ago I ended up diving head first and eventually figured things out. 9V trains look better, but it's hard to beat the remote control track system of 12V.
Thank you! That's precisely why I made this series, I wanted to explain to people how everything works. There are almost no good guides online on how to set everything up. It's very intimidating to start with 12v from nothing- I know, as I did this 2 years back.
@@Reker1million BrickTsar was about the only TH-cam creator offering practical advice on 12V in English, but it was very limited. I was a bit nervous as to whether everything would work out but it has and I really enjoy the system. It is bit fussy, partly due to age of the parts and partly due to complexity, but Lego did a good job and my setup works fine now that I a) tweaked it and b) understand it.
Lovely Informative Video! I literally just won a ebay auction of a 12 volt lot that included 7735,7866 and 7856, some parts are missing but the locomotive runs! Im very excited to try it all out once it arrives!
Hey good for you! I'm so happy that this video is helping you get knowledge. Let me know how everything goes, if you have questions I am glad to answer them. Welcome to the 12v community!
@@Reker1million it went very well! The lot also included 7860 with all the pieces! Only issues are that the locomotive is missing its traction tyres,the signal controller dosen't stay pressed down and one of the red light bricks dosen't work in the signal cross piece but all the motors and controller do still work so I'm very happy
@@Reker1million Tell me how to build the lego 7864 speed regulator
@@Reker1million how to repair the track sleepers?
Nice! You can easily buy replacement parts on Bricklink for 7860. If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the lot?
This was very useful. I want to get into vintage 12v Lego train and this helps a lot. Thank you.
No problem! Glad I could help!
The 12 volt system was also released in Australia and NZ using our common plug standard for 240v AC. I had the 7740 set as a child.
Yep, I know it was released to Australia and NZ since there were some rare box variants of 7725 and 7740 (UK/F/NL) only released to those areas in 1983-4. However, I think they were rare there, so you were lucky to have 7740!
I just got my first 12V set and this was most helpful, thank you!!
Glad to know my videos were helpful! Always makes my day when someone tells me my videos helped them.
One thing to comment for those getting started on 12 volts. I purchased a sealed transformer kit. I don't have a "wired curve" metal piece (@3:49) I only have metal pieces with holes for the individual electrical connectors (one on each side). The problem is the transformer came with a cable that has a single double prong connector on each end (one wide to connet to transformer) and one narrow connector, no way to connect that to the metal pieces on the track. The transformer kit did not come with the 96 stud wire with individual connectors you talk about @3:30. So just what I thought I was ready to energize the track I am having to order one of those connectors and wait 2-3 weeks agggg . So, unless you have a wired curve metal track you need to buy the 96 stud long wire with individual connectors.
Oh yeah, thanks for the comment! That is actually a fairly uncommon late release of the transformer- I believe it had the cable with 4 1-prong connectors until about 1987, then it switched to the cable you described (this can be seen in the Bricklink inventory). So yes, if you get the later release of the transformer you cannot power the track out of the box... I don't know why TLG did that. Most train sets should come with the correct cable or a connector rail though, as those parts are part of the inventories for many sets.
Fragmented information can be such a huge problem with older Lego electronics. Glad to see you are making these videos to help with this for Lego 12v trains. Cheers!
Thank you for the comment! Yes, I noticed the same thing when I was getting into 12v, which is why I started this channel. Eventually I'll make a long series about the entire in-depth history of the Grey Era for the true die-hard 12v fans.
@@Reker1million how to connect 2 transformers 1 on the left 1 on the right of the remotes?
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking- each transformer has only one jack for remotes. If you mean how to integrate a second transformer into a layout, you'd have to electrically separate the tracks- or, you can use one transformer just for the trains and a second for all the accessories, so you don't lose as much power from running the trains.
@@Reker1million on youtube search for lego 12v train dream layout and you will see 3 transformers
In that video I think the transformers are all connected to loops of track which are physically connected with points, but modified isolator rails or defective points which don't conduct electricity are used to electrically separate the 3 loops. I've never modified rails to have double isolating blocks but may do it if I get a second transformer. Check out the comments on that video if you need more information.
When these units were shipped to Australia, I suspect they were fitted with the country-specific cord afterwards.
I'm not sure, I know the transformers were produced by Buhler, but it would be interesting to know if they put the plugs on when they manufactured the transformers or each country did it after they got shipments.
I just came across your channel and love the videos. I have the 7735 since my childhood. Unfortunately, I am currently working on fixing a few items, in particular the lamps and the control box for one switch track.
Thanks for the comment! There are some threads on Eurobricks about repairing the lights and remotes, those may be helpful if you haven't checked them out yet.
@Reker1million thank you! I have seen them, but still was not able to open the box without damaging it, so I have not tried anything else.
Good information although there was a third plug variation which is for Australian electrical outlets
Thank you for the information! I didn't know that.
Once again thanks for this wonderful series. Thanks to you and this very informative and inspiring series I just bought my first 12 volt trains. I have coming a 7740, 7745, 7730 and a 7750 hope you approve my starting selection. Still looking for a 7755. I have a couple of questions. With all the remote possibilities is anyone in the 12 volt space using MILS plates? I have a 9 volt layout, 4x7 baseplates, all in MILS plates. Looks like they would be perfect for hiding all those cables. Also, how big is your layout #1. Also is anyone adding sleepers to the tracks to make them look a bit more.....dare I say realistic? I orders a bunch of 2x8 clips to supplement the ones in the sets. I intend (I think) to make 12 volt tracks look like 9 volt or non powered tracks (I may come to regret those plans, some of those clips are not cheap). Any way tanks for the series you truly inspire me (Jesse thanks you I am sure) Looking forward to more unboxing, review and layout videos. Like I told Jesse watching you shunt those cars is poetry in motion!
Thank you for the nice comment! I replied to your other comment as well. 7755 is indeed a very rare set in the condition I got it in, lucky Jesse had one available at the time... patience + scouring BL/ebay is what got me the sets I have today. I'm not sure if anyone uses MILS plates but you could check Eurobricks, there is good info on most train-related things there (it has been an invaluable resource for me). My first layout (and all of my layouts to date) fit on a 4x8 foot table, although Layout 1 wasn't pushing the borders like some of my latest ones. I have seen people adding additional 2x8 dark grey plates (sleepers will not work- you have to use normal plates) in 12v tracks, see this channel: th-cam.com/video/zdkPSmxRrMA/w-d-xo.html
Already made another order from Jesse (some boxed remote accessories, no train sets this time), look forward to bigger layouts soon!
Very cool Video
Thank you!
Did you know that if you turn the nob on the transformer upside down you can use it to run 4,5 volt trains with power pickups on the 12 volt track
Yep, the studs block it from turning all the way. I didn't include it in this video since it's not very relevant, but when I do a full review on 7864 I'll explain that detail.
Very good video! I have a question so is it possible to just take the electrical middle rail and put it on the modern train tracks? Would it run or does it need to be on the old grey tracks?
Thanks for the question! Yes, I think the electric rail insert can be placed into 9v or RC tracks, just make sure to connect it to the transformer. See this video: th-cam.com/video/LK4geFZ0aT8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you so much!
No problem!
@@Reker1million Note that in that video, it only worked with straight rails. You can't fit curved conductor rails to curved 9v/PF track without modifying the bricks, and of course points are right out.
Ah, thank you! I didn't know that they need to be modified in order for a connection to 9v/PF track.
Small error in your video- the 12v trains, some of them at least (I can only confirm 7740), were also released in Australia. There exists a 12v transformer variant with the Australian outlet plug though they are hard to come by.
Yes I have discovered this since I made that video! The Australian box variants are quite hard to come by.
I thought that the AC port was for accessories like the switch remote?
or the lights? idk. I only have the older 12v transformer
I think AC can work with lights, but they never show it in the catalogs. Definitely not for motors.
Regarding the conducting track with wire there is a 2731a and 2731b part available. Can you help with what is the difference? The 2731a says it is with a short connector and 2731b with a long. I’m confused and can’t find any further info. Thanks in advance
Thanks for the question! 2731a is the older version, released in 1986 or 1987 I think, and it was replaced by 2731b a few years later. There's no functional difference except the "short connector" is a little slimmer.
@@Reker1million thanks for confirming that. Much appreciated
I have a question, I have 2 lego transformators , can I use 1 for an inner loop and 1 for the outside loop while both loops are connected with a set of switches or is this not possible?
It's not possible unless you make custom double isolating rails, so the loops are electrically isolated. Or you could just take out one section of 12V conducting rail.
@@Reker1million ok so it would work with 2 of the traffic light rails with the plastic part on both sides ?
Hi, should the plug for the 12v transformer be a loose fit for the voltage converter? I got a similar model to yours but the EU plug slides out too easily.
I actually had the same issue / situation as you. It stayed in, but could be knocked out easily. Are the plug tines bent towards each other? That could be it.
@@Reker1million The tines are bent towards each other. Which way did you bend them to remedy the issue? And another question about operation. On the voltage box, which voltage setting did you put on before operating?
You could try bending them a little bit away from each other - mine isn't bad enough that I had to do much, it just falls out easily but if I don't bump it it'll stay in. For the voltage converter, you have to put the black connector into the hole that corresponds to the input voltage - so for me in North America, I put mine into the "120V" setting.