I have enjoyed several of your vids.Dad set up a frick 0 in 1974. I was 21.We used it a lot over the years.There seems to be a lot of interest in the old mills today by young people who have no idea how dangerous they are.You are obviously too well read and meticulous to be included in that group.You have done a great job.Recently I helped out someone setting up a mill and I could not convince him of the importance of having the saw hammered.For those reading this hammering is done to produce maximum tension at your rpm.The term “does it stand up and saw” comes from this and has never been mentioned in any of the vids I have ever watched by anyone.Love to see you mention this in your next vid.Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. I also meet people all the time that have no idea how dangerous these mills are. They always say "you will cut off your fingers on that thing", my response is "no, you die on that thing if you don't respect it". You are correct about hammering, and that I didn't mention it when I should have. That was one of the first things I did. Problem was my blade I like the best (Style 3) was the one I had just had hammered and was on the mill when the saw hung during the restoration. Damaged the face of the blade and I didn't put it back on for fear of damaging my collars. I need to take it to the saw doc and have it fixed but have not done so yet. Need to get off my butt and get that done. I love the way the style 3 blade saws.
Thanks Jay, I don't find many people who can align one so I decided to do the video. I learned by reading a lot of books and some trial and error mixed in. I typically align the mill once or twice a year just to make sure it saws consistent lumber.
@@davidcunningham257 Years ago our extension service put out a book on lumber mill set up and it was an excellent publication . Thats what i started with back in about 1985. I currently own and operate a circle saw mill and a few years back purchased a woodmizer band mill , the circle saw is still number one to me.
Thank you for that very important video. It is much better, in my opinion, to see how something is done, than read about it. This video definitely helped in understanding alignment.
hi there the sawmill looks great and realy enjoyed this video. there is a book by casey creamer called sawmills guide to trouble shooting . this guy i feel is real good . the book is the best . if you have anything to do with sawing you got to get this book on believable . than after you read this the person i believe to have been one of his teachers is at memomimee saw . peaches is his name best saw hammer in the usa or world . both are super nice . you got to get that book . you will look at your sawmill in a whole new way . once again great video keep them coming .
hi there again just watched Trouble-Shooting a small Circular Sawmill . it was posted by Patrick Matthew Rappold on July 31 2018 it is of Casey Creamer . the guy i made mention earlier . it was made in 1992 casey also does a good job
nice job on the mill,lumber looks good too.not to tell you what to do,but the very next thing i'd do is get rid of the round wheel board splitter.i had a wide board fall over on mine ,the saw threw it about 60 yards up the hill.
I agree, I have been meaning to replace that with a vertical piece of steel. The wheel is too far back from the saw so boards pinch the saw then hit the wheel which bumps the carriage. It also is too thick so when you get down to the end of the board, it will sometimes pull the log away from the end headblock and make a wedge. I need to find some plate steel and weld up a new splitter.
hi there i have travled all around looking at sawmills for sale . maybe over 100 . i would say 30-40 % were not being used because a board caught the blade shot back and killed the sawer . i was told if a board ever falls and hits the blade just drop to the ground . it will either cut it or shoot it and if it hits you id the head its all over . i had a 1x8 x12 foot hit the blade . i hit the ground . when i got up couldn't find it . turned off the mill , started looking around . it was 100 feet from the blade in the woods hit a 24" poplar broke in half . that was over 25 years ago . it is still sitting there (some what ) to remind me . board kick back #1killer on a mill . i watch hundreds of mill on y/t when i see one with out a set of rollers and the board just falls . scares the crap out of me . be safe john
Hi Dave, bandmiller 2, you have a good grip on things, I know it was a long hard battle but you had the tenacity to stay the course. Shouldn't those track cleaner blocks have the vee in the wheel vee. I'm still sawing but not as much this winter. A circular mill is like a trophy wife it always wants something. People don't understand how such heavy machinery is so demanding of fine adjustment. Stay safe my friend I'l be glad when the virus plage passes.
Frank, Good to hear from you. The track cleaners have a 45 angle cut into them on the wheel side so they don't fit all they way up into the groove but since there is a bottom profile that matches the track, I don't get much if anything in the groove. Agreed a circle mill demands a lot of attention. We sawed a couple of weeks ago and its starting so saw a little bit of a wedge again. Time to re-align it. I typically realign about once or twice a year anyway. Hope you are staying safe as well. We have been locked down for going on 8 weeks now but I did get some logs and had the opportunity to saw a couple of times.
Glenn, I of all people appreciate wanting to see the mill, unfortunately we don't give out the location of the mill for reasons of security and safety. Thanks and hope you understand.
Dean, don't get me wrong, I am not trying to be ugly or mean, there are too many of those people on the internet as it is but could you send me a picture of someone setting lead with it running? Just kidding, I don't want to see anyone killed! Not sure what you are referring to with regards to adjustments while running but the only thing I set with it running is the position of the guide pins and even that makes me nervous. In all of the books I have read on the subject, which there are not many of out there, all of the adjustment is done with the mill off.
What I was talking about is when you set up is to put a pine log on. An saw it and measure it as you saw it. We set sawmill from job to job. This is the way my Grand Paw set up sawmills. I still do the same way. Didn't mean no offense. We had sawmills to make a living. I still have one, O Frick.
Thanks for the clarification Dean. I have never done it that way myself. When I have done the alignment as I show in the video, the saw just saws square. I hadn't thought about measuring the board as you saw and making adjustments from that. Mater of fact, I have never seen anyone align a circular mill, I just got what I know from reading and talking with people on the subject.
thank you that's not too far from the house, I heard the closest ones was either ellerbe or some guy way up the mountain on 221, so that helps. thanks again.
I strongly suggest anyone setting up thier mill to put the guide rail away from the blade and the flat rail next to the blade. the flat rail will bear more weight and wear less and will clean easier. the guide rail essentially dictates alignment and lead of the saw to track so why have sawdust and debris become a potential problem. the saw teeth each put a share of vibration when they cut (Chip) and this also accelerates wear. Turning the log/cant there is a fair impact hitting the wheels via the head blocks through the carriage frame.
It doesn't seem to have made any difference. I align the saw once a year just to keep it sawing well and to keep me in practice of doing the alignment. We had the blade hammered to 600rpm, I now my engine runs slightly higher rpm so I am typically turning the saw about 625rpm which is just at the high end of the range of its tension and I get a little wobble in the blade when it is not cutting. Something I have to work on this coming year is getting the speed dialed in.
This is for hobby only. I will saw some for friends and local folks but not on a regular basis. My day job as an engineer keeps me parked behind a desk.
@@davidcunningham257 my grandfather was a sawmiller and i know it is very hard work and i would not want to do it but i would love to find one of these things and fix it up as a hobby someday. i was only 12 years old we he sold his last one but i cant figure out by watching the videos on here what makes the carriage go 2 directions. I know it has to do with putting pressure on a belt but is one of the belts in a figure 8 position to make it turn the oppo site direction on the pully?
@@raganhayes4924 When you push the handle forward, it tightens the left belt that puts the carriage drum in the same rotation as the saw and causes the carriage to move in reverse. When you pull the handle back, the left belt loosens and the right belt tightens, the right belt is looped behind a pulley on the shaft which causes the drum to rotate in the opposite direction resulting in the carriage moving forward. Easier to see than to describe in words. lol!
@@davidcunningham257 That Helps. My grandfather had a Combine and it had a narrow belt on the and when the best was installed in a figure 8 it would make one of the pullys turn the opposite direction. What state are you located in?
I have enjoyed several of your vids.Dad set up a frick 0 in 1974. I was 21.We used it a lot over the years.There seems to be a lot of interest in the old mills today by young people who have no idea how dangerous they are.You are obviously too well read and meticulous to be included in that group.You have done a great job.Recently I helped out someone setting up a mill and I could not convince him of the importance of having the saw hammered.For those reading this hammering is done to produce maximum tension at your rpm.The term “does it stand up and saw” comes from this and has never been mentioned in any of the vids I have ever watched by anyone.Love to see you mention this in your next vid.Thanks
Glad you enjoyed the video. I also meet people all the time that have no idea how dangerous these mills are. They always say "you will cut off your fingers on that thing", my response is "no, you die on that thing if you don't respect it".
You are correct about hammering, and that I didn't mention it when I should have. That was one of the first things I did. Problem was my blade I like the best (Style 3) was the one I had just had hammered and was on the mill when the saw hung during the restoration. Damaged the face of the blade and I didn't put it back on for fear of damaging my collars. I need to take it to the saw doc and have it fixed but have not done so yet. Need to get off my butt and get that done. I love the way the style 3 blade saws.
It's nice to see that theres people in this world that are common sense smart and know what they're doing, good job keep up the good work
Thanks Kyle, it was a lot of hard lessons learned to get the saw to saw correctly.
Great video , I've been working on saw mills for 30 plus years and your video is the most proper on set up procedures that i've seen on youtube.
Thanks Jay, I don't find many people who can align one so I decided to do the video. I learned by reading a lot of books and some trial and error mixed in. I typically align the mill once or twice a year just to make sure it saws consistent lumber.
@@davidcunningham257 Years ago our extension service put out a book on lumber mill set up and it was an excellent publication . Thats what i started with back in about 1985. I currently own and operate a circle saw mill and a few years back purchased a woodmizer band mill , the circle saw is still number one to me.
Thank you for a very helpful video. I have a frick 0 and this video is a tremendous help
You are welcome. I know it was frustrating to me when I was setting mine up, digging trying to figure things out so glad this helps.
Thank you for that very important video. It is much better, in my opinion, to see how something is done, than read about it. This video definitely helped in understanding alignment.
Glad it was helpful. I agree, reading about it is great to get an understanding but seeing it done helps a lot.
hi there the sawmill looks great and realy enjoyed this video. there is a book by casey creamer called sawmills guide to trouble shooting . this guy i feel is real good . the book is the best . if you have anything to do with sawing you got to get this book on believable . than after you read this the person i believe to have been one of his teachers is at memomimee saw . peaches is his name best saw hammer in the usa or world . both are super nice . you got to get that book . you will look at your sawmill in a whole new way . once again great video keep them coming .
Thanks for the tip. The more I can learn the better so I ordered a copy of the book this evening.
hi there again just watched Trouble-Shooting a small Circular Sawmill . it was posted by Patrick Matthew Rappold on July 31 2018 it is of Casey Creamer . the guy i made mention earlier . it was made in 1992 casey also does a good job
very helpfull video Thanks David
Thanks for the training video
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed the video Triple T
Thank you so much. We're doing the same right now
Glad it helped. It took me a while to get it all figured out and thought by sharing this video, it could shorten the process for others.
nice job on the mill,lumber looks good too.not to tell you what to do,but the very next thing i'd do is get rid of the round wheel board splitter.i had a wide board fall over on mine ,the saw threw it about 60 yards up the hill.
I agree, I have been meaning to replace that with a vertical piece of steel. The wheel is too far back from the saw so boards pinch the saw then hit the wheel which bumps the carriage. It also is too thick so when you get down to the end of the board, it will sometimes pull the log away from the end headblock and make a wedge. I need to find some plate steel and weld up a new splitter.
hi there i have travled all around looking at sawmills for sale . maybe over 100 . i would say 30-40 % were not being used because a board caught the blade shot back and killed the sawer . i was told if a board ever falls and hits the blade just drop to the ground . it will either cut it or shoot it and if it hits you id the head its all over . i had a 1x8 x12 foot hit the blade . i hit the ground . when i got up couldn't find it . turned off the mill , started looking around . it was 100 feet from the blade in the woods hit a 24" poplar broke in half . that was over 25 years ago . it is still sitting there (some what ) to remind me . board kick back #1killer on a mill . i watch hundreds of mill on y/t when i see one with out a set of rollers and the board just falls . scares the crap out of me . be safe john
best fricking saw ever !
Hi Dave, bandmiller 2, you have a good grip on things, I know it was a long hard battle but you had the tenacity to stay the course. Shouldn't those track cleaner blocks have the vee in the wheel vee. I'm still sawing but not as much this winter. A circular mill is like a trophy wife it always wants something. People don't understand how such heavy machinery is so demanding of fine adjustment. Stay safe my friend I'l be glad when the virus plage passes.
Frank, Good to hear from you. The track cleaners have a 45 angle cut into them on the wheel side so they don't fit all they way up into the groove but since there is a bottom profile that matches the track, I don't get much if anything in the groove. Agreed a circle mill demands a lot of attention. We sawed a couple of weeks ago and its starting so saw a little bit of a wedge again. Time to re-align it. I typically realign about once or twice a year anyway. Hope you are staying safe as well. We have been locked down for going on 8 weeks now but I did get some logs and had the opportunity to saw a couple of times.
I would love to spend a day with you guys running the sawmill. where are you located?
Glenn, I of all people appreciate wanting to see the mill, unfortunately we don't give out the location of the mill for reasons of security and safety. Thanks and hope you understand.
Anyway you could get in touch David ? I have a few questions for you
Nice sawill. But sawmill needs to be running to get good alignments. Good job.
Dean, don't get me wrong, I am not trying to be ugly or mean, there are too many of those people on the internet as it is but could you send me a picture of someone setting lead with it running? Just kidding, I don't want to see anyone killed! Not sure what you are referring to with regards to adjustments while running but the only thing I set with it running is the position of the guide pins and even that makes me nervous. In all of the books I have read on the subject, which there are not many of out there, all of the adjustment is done with the mill off.
What I was talking about is when you set up is to put a pine log on. An saw it and measure it as you saw it. We set sawmill from job to job. This is the way my Grand Paw set up sawmills. I still do the same way. Didn't mean no offense. We had sawmills to make a living. I still have one, O Frick.
Thanks for the clarification Dean. I have never done it that way myself. When I have done the alignment as I show in the video, the saw just saws square. I hadn't thought about measuring the board as you saw and making adjustments from that. Mater of fact, I have never seen anyone align a circular mill, I just got what I know from reading and talking with people on the subject.
I'd like to know where he's at in NC, I'm in the western end of NC with a 00, I bought I feel like I could learn alot from him.
Aaron, thanks for your confidence in us. Unfortunately, we don't give out the location of the mill for reasons of security and safety. Thanks though.
well can i ask if you have any suggestions on where to get a blade hammered here in nc, or close by in tn, va, or sc?
I had mine hammered at Union Grove Saw and Knife up off of I77.
thank you that's not too far from the house, I heard the closest ones was either ellerbe or some guy way up the mountain on 221, so that helps. thanks again.
hey dave,this is mark I live on the other side of Pittsboro,i need to come see your set up.how do I get up with you,thanks mark
Mark give me a call 919-___-____
Where did you get the new track wheels ????
I had the new carrriage made through D&D Sawmill Parts and Service, Chambersburg, PA. Also bought the axles there as well.
@@davidcunningham257 thank you
I strongly suggest anyone setting up thier mill to put the guide rail away from the blade and the flat rail next to the blade. the flat rail will bear more weight and wear less and will clean easier. the guide rail essentially dictates alignment and lead of the saw to track so why have sawdust and debris become a potential problem. the saw teeth each put a share of vibration when they cut (Chip) and this also accelerates wear. Turning the log/cant there is a fair impact hitting the wheels via the head blocks through the carriage frame.
I was also wondering if after cutting with bad alignment, if the saw blade tension was effected?
It doesn't seem to have made any difference. I align the saw once a year just to keep it sawing well and to keep me in practice of doing the alignment. We had the blade hammered to 600rpm, I now my engine runs slightly higher rpm so I am typically turning the saw about 625rpm which is just at the high end of the range of its tension and I get a little wobble in the blade when it is not cutting. Something I have to work on this coming year is getting the speed dialed in.
Is this sawmill a hobby for you or is it a full time business?
This is for hobby only. I will saw some for friends and local folks but not on a regular basis. My day job as an engineer keeps me parked behind a desk.
@@davidcunningham257 my grandfather was a sawmiller and i know it is very hard work and i would not want to do it but i would love to find one of these things and fix it up as a hobby someday. i was only 12 years old we he sold his last one but i cant figure out by watching the videos on here what makes the carriage go 2 directions. I know it has to do with putting pressure on a belt but is one of the belts in a figure 8 position to make it turn the oppo
site direction on the pully?
@@raganhayes4924 When you push the handle forward, it tightens the left belt that puts the carriage drum in the same rotation as the saw and causes the carriage to move in reverse. When you pull the handle back, the left belt loosens and the right belt tightens, the right belt is looped behind a pulley on the shaft which causes the drum to rotate in the opposite direction resulting in the carriage moving forward. Easier to see than to describe in words. lol!
@@davidcunningham257 That Helps. My grandfather had a Combine and it had a narrow belt on the and when the best was installed in a figure 8 it would make one of the pullys turn the opposite direction. What state are you located in?