At 10:00 Zoe goes in direct on a single cam and calls off belay. While she's on a ledge technically, this is absolutely a bad practice for safety and unnecessarily "alpine". While it's unlikely that piece would blow if it's already weighted, it can happen and that would be a fatal error. It's cool to go direct on a single piece while you build the anchor, but you shouldn't come off belay until you're into the masterpoint. Further, for efficiency, I pre-position the belay device on the anchor as well before calling 'off belay' that way as soon as the belay is off, I can immediately start pulling in the rope and get the follower on belay. Nice sends though and have fun on your next trip (I'll be there in the fall too). I recommend Braille Book for your next go for a big Yosemite day and even more '5.8' wide.
Hey thanks! You are totally right, in that moment it was a judgment call and is not how it's typically done, but we also appreciate you letting us know and for the tips! Braille Book is on the MP to-do list just waiting for a big tick!
Yea on long valley routes it’s good to develop a system that doesn’t require verbal communication, especially by the falls! We would get to the belay, build the anchor, pull up the slack, then allow a bit for the second to clean the last belay, then give three firm tugs signaling your on belay. If the rope goes up as you climb, you know you’re good.
Awesome guys. The valley is amazing, and I miss it, but I have to say, Tuolumne Meadows should be your next stop. Plenty of climbs in your grade. THE perfect summer spot!
I love how real you guys were about your experience. No trying to fake it lol. I will say 5.8s have gotten me before too. Grading makes no sense at times.
Thank you so much! We are always trying to show how it really is, good or bad. Climbing around the western US has taught us to take any grading system in any area with huge grains of salt (at least until you figure out the area).
Almost everyone is a beginner when they first climb in the Valley. It's a real proving ground but if you stick with it, it will change your outlook on life.
Climber from the 70s here. Interestingly, the second (green) Roper guide has Commitment at 5.9 and Seliginella at 5.7. The first topo guide book (Meyers) has both at 5.8. Both classics and should have been great fun. Sunnyside Bench jam crack is also great fun.
Thank you! The hardest pitch I (Kelby) have led (trad) is .10a. Certain parts of Selaginella felt harder than that but everything else we climbed felt appropriate to their grades.
They are for crack climbing. You jam your hand or fist into the crack and squeeze, and it gets stuck, so you can use it to pull up. The glove protects your skin, and also gives you more friction to stay stuck better. Tape is often also used to make a tape glove for this purpose.
Oh I understand how and why. I’m a decades long Yosemite local climber but have not seen this in the Valley before now. Tape yes. But not gloves for crack climbing
@@the_adventureaddicts it is. There's a reason a bunch of climbers showing up at your sports store the moment it opens in the morning to take a dump all over the bathroom, steal all the carabineers and hardware and then complain about the prices while bragging about how cool they are is a trope.
The fact that I can probably do it makes me dream even more of flying to the USA to explore the Yosemite Park. You're such an inspiration
You've got this, you can do it!
At 10:00 Zoe goes in direct on a single cam and calls off belay. While she's on a ledge technically, this is absolutely a bad practice for safety and unnecessarily "alpine". While it's unlikely that piece would blow if it's already weighted, it can happen and that would be a fatal error. It's cool to go direct on a single piece while you build the anchor, but you shouldn't come off belay until you're into the masterpoint. Further, for efficiency, I pre-position the belay device on the anchor as well before calling 'off belay' that way as soon as the belay is off, I can immediately start pulling in the rope and get the follower on belay. Nice sends though and have fun on your next trip (I'll be there in the fall too). I recommend Braille Book for your next go for a big Yosemite day and even more '5.8' wide.
Hey thanks! You are totally right, in that moment it was a judgment call and is not how it's typically done, but we also appreciate you letting us know and for the tips! Braille Book is on the MP to-do list just waiting for a big tick!
Yea on long valley routes it’s good to develop a system that doesn’t require verbal communication, especially by the falls! We would get to the belay, build the anchor, pull up the slack, then allow a bit for the second to clean the last belay, then give three firm tugs signaling your on belay. If the rope goes up as you climb, you know you’re good.
You guys don't suck, your having fun and your in beatiful places being active and safe. Keep enjoying yourselves
Thanks! It really is beautiful there and we are having so much fun doing it!
so nice to have soulmate that share passion
Couldn't agree more!
Awesome guys. The valley is amazing, and I miss it, but I have to say, Tuolumne Meadows should be your next stop. Plenty of climbs in your grade. THE perfect summer spot!
We can't wait to make it to Tuolumne Meadows!
Was just in Yosemite last weekend and saw people doing this! So cool!
It is so fun! Thanks for watching!
I love how real you guys were about your experience. No trying to fake it lol. I will say 5.8s have gotten me before too. Grading makes no sense at times.
Thank you so much! We are always trying to show how it really is, good or bad. Climbing around the western US has taught us to take any grading system in any area with huge grains of salt (at least until you figure out the area).
@@the_adventureaddicts yes the western grades are very much a mystery. I mainly climb in CO and it varies so much here
Almost everyone is a beginner when they first climb in the Valley. It's a real proving ground but if you stick with it, it will change your outlook on life.
Is that Commitment? If so are the red ants still all over the crack off the tree ledge?
Finally a video that isn’t click bait. You guys really do suck compared to Yosemite climbers! :)
I climbed a couple of days in Yosemite 20 years ago, I'm about this level as well.... Bishop's Seat 5.8 is my recommendation.
Good to know, we will have to check it out!
Awesome video guys! Feeling inspired to get out to Yosemite soon!
Also, anyone know what song/band is playing at 21:00?
Thank you! We can't wait to get back out there
the song is Mountains by The Easter Plain
Climber from the 70s here. Interestingly, the second (green) Roper guide has Commitment at 5.9 and Seliginella at 5.7. The first topo guide book (Meyers) has both at 5.8. Both classics and should have been great fun. Sunnyside Bench jam crack is also great fun.
Jam crack is such a great route! Kelby absolutely loved the "second pitch"
The dude soloing is the guy your wife told you not to worry about
Great video! What's the hardest grade you guys have climbed outside of Yosemite? Trying to understand how sandbagged it really is.
Thank you! The hardest pitch I (Kelby) have led (trad) is .10a. Certain parts of Selaginella felt harder than that but everything else we climbed felt appropriate to their grades.
What radio are you guys using?
rockytalkie.com/products/mountain-radio?variant=32579663396969&avad=298453_f3a4d2ec1&
Rocky Talkie - Mountain Radio! We absolutely love these things!
What’s the name of the song that is at the beginning?
You Are All Alone
By Alight The Night feat. Luke Gabben
I don’t understand the climbing with gloves on thing?🤔
They are for crack climbing. You jam your hand or fist into the crack and squeeze, and it gets stuck, so you can use it to pull up. The glove protects your skin, and also gives you more friction to stay stuck better. Tape is often also used to make a tape glove for this purpose.
Oh I understand how and why. I’m a decades long Yosemite local climber but have not seen this in the Valley before now. Tape yes. But not gloves for crack climbing
Munginella is probably my favorite climb
Such a fun route, right?!
Well, most climbers suck as people, so you're ahead.
I think this is a compliment soooo... Thanks!
@@the_adventureaddicts it is. There's a reason a bunch of climbers showing up at your sports store the moment it opens in the morning to take a dump all over the bathroom, steal all the carabineers and hardware and then complain about the prices while bragging about how cool they are is a trope.