TPU pro tip: spread a thin layer of PVA glue on the plate, then use alcohol as a release agent. I drip a few drops on a corner of the finished print, then capillary action and/or fumes release the rest as I peel.
Thanks for all of the work you put into this kit! The kit will be a great help for me to start robotics. Looking forward to building with it this winter with my grandsons.
Something that might help your process of packaging your 3d prints (7:45) is called poka yoke trays. UPS and Lego (I think) use when picking/kitting orders and it helps eliminate errors so no order has to many/few parts.
I use glue stick as lifting agent on the build plate whenever I print anything other than PLA. Also, consider getting a textured PEI sheet which also lets parts go more easily.
Realistically something like this relatively low volume from build to retail it should be in the 5-10x cost to build vs sales price. However at 45 euro this is a heck of a bargain good luck on future work.
I can confirm that, I've also had issues with removing the TPU parts from the bed (I've printed them on a piece of packing tape) and using a few drops of IPA around the parts did the trick, the parts came off few seconds after that.
Loved the cost breakdown at the end! I'm really curious about how much time you think you spent on the project. And no matter what, coming out with cash positive at the end is always a good thing 🎉
Instead of printing the parts in PLA, I would go with PETG or ABS. PLA tends dissolve with time, especially in tropical countries. Anyways, it is great job, congratulations!
Did you read the instructions for BambuLab build plates? Most of them requires glue stick as a separation layer when printing TPU. Exactly because of the problem that you had - too much adchesion.
Hey Nikodem, i just wanted to ask you, maybe you have a link to that blue self healling cutting mat you are using? i need it that big... i cant find it anywhere
@@nikodembartnik It also blocks radio signals that makes the bottom plate unsuitable for mounting anything that transmits or receives. I think an ABS injected part 5mm thick, would be more than strong enough for this application. Not to mention the cheap cost of plastic and the initial mold.
Check out FlexiSpot for some cool standing desks: bit.ly/3AtoRYr
Here you can buy my ORP chassis: indystry.cc/product/orp-robotics-chassis/
TPU pro tip: spread a thin layer of PVA glue on the plate, then use alcohol as a release agent. I drip a few drops on a corner of the finished print, then capillary action and/or fumes release the rest as I peel.
Thanks for all of the work you put into this kit! The kit will be a great help for me to start robotics. Looking forward to building with it this winter with my grandsons.
Something that might help your process of packaging your 3d prints (7:45) is called poka yoke trays. UPS and Lego (I think) use when picking/kitting orders and it helps eliminate errors so no order has to many/few parts.
I use glue stick as lifting agent on the build plate whenever I print anything other than PLA. Also, consider getting a textured PEI sheet which also lets parts go more easily.
Realistically something like this relatively low volume from build to retail it should be in the 5-10x cost to build vs sales price. However at 45 euro this is a heck of a bargain good luck on future work.
For the TPU issue, consider laying down a layer of painters tape on the build surface or a thin layer of glue from a glue stick
IPA is very good to remove tpu from the plate, I just spray it so it goes under it and it comes off very easily
I can confirm that, I've also had issues with removing the TPU parts from the bed (I've printed them on a piece of packing tape) and using a few drops of IPA around the parts did the trick, the parts came off few seconds after that.
Loved the cost breakdown at the end!
I'm really curious about how much time you think you spent on the project.
And no matter what, coming out with cash positive at the end is always a good thing 🎉
Instead of printing the parts in PLA, I would go with PETG or ABS. PLA tends dissolve with time, especially in tropical countries. Anyways, it is great job, congratulations!
Ever thought of entering the 'mouse maze' completion "Micromouse"? I think it's in your league.
Great work
The wheels look like they would work great with 3D printed 2-part resin molds
Did you read the instructions for BambuLab build plates? Most of them requires glue stick as a separation layer when printing TPU. Exactly because of the problem that you had - too much adchesion.
Bro uses a 3D printer so much that he calls a normal printer a 2D printer 🤣. Nice job though!
Excellent job. I wish you lots of success !
Take a look at your house. You have a room on the attic floor, just like me. But I haven't done the repairs yet. Looking for inspiration
OK, so now please do this for your IndieMower too 😀
Totally loved this !
Great work!
For TPU use the flat side of the plate
Not try yet this method but I see this in internet
Hey Nikodem, i just wanted to ask you, maybe you have a link to that blue self healling cutting mat you are using? i need it that big... i cant find it anywhere
Sure, I bought mine in Poland but you can find it on Amazon as well: amzn.to/49lK43r
Mine is 60x90cm
AM I the only one thinking about putting a grifinity grid on the top plate and make it an autonomous delivery robot in the house ?
Not a single person in the universe ever asks WHAT DESK ARE YOU USING.
Very cool!
Why in steel?
To make it super durable but also cost efficient.
and to increase shipping cost while reducing production cost.
@@nikodembartnik It also blocks radio signals that makes the bottom plate unsuitable for mounting anything that transmits or receives.
I think an ABS injected part 5mm thick, would be more than strong enough for this application.
Not to mention the cheap cost of plastic and the initial mold.
Super durable rigid frame with super shitty crap motors? ;(
Wow
i am the 4th comment, wow !?