1. Don't shoot wide open. Shoot between F5.6 and F9 for sharpest photos. 2. Keep your shutter speed higher than the focal length of the lens/keep shutter speed high enough to freeze the action. 3. Use the center focus point. 4. Turn IS/OS/VC off if you're using a tripod. 5. Keep ISO low to avoid excess noise in the image. Take time to move the subject closer to the light.
You know what? I have had a very bad time with serrios bad trafick accident here in sweden. In my fight to get better, i´ve bought a camera, Canon 70D and 3 lences. Now im watching all your videos, learning every time. Starting to "dear" myself taking some very nice pictures of family, nature, things.. learnd to "see" lights and scenery. Im getting out walking. So I cant thank you enough for you and your sweet staff getting me back to life... you are so fantastic explaining for "dummies" like med. Please escuse my poor english in writing😄 Very lovely regards to you all.. Søren from Sweden...
Hello Søren I hope that you have recovered well, from your accident, for which I'm sorry that it happened. Happy shooting, smiling, walking, dancing, laughing. Love to your family and you. From London 🌞 🐾🐾🌞😷🌈
my tip for a sharper picture. is frame your subject. then use your magnifier button (the one you use to zoom in on a already recorded image) in the same way .. select the area you want to focus on... moving around the frame as you would normally, use it in review mode. Once you are where you want to be, manually fine focus. Simply press your shutter release when your happy. Provided you have only moved the focus ring it will capture the pre framed image. I do this using a Nikon D5300 and the 16 -300mm tamron zoom lens but i only shoot using a tripod.may be that could be a little messy if you hand hold something heavy. Try it see if it does it with you're camera.
Tip #4 at @03:17 is very true. I had just bought a new lens a year ago (Tamron 16-300) and I was taking some long exposure traffic pictures, but I was frustrated as hell when I looked at my photos and there was some blur, even though I was using a tripod. Switched lenses to a kit lens, Long Exposure Shot was sharp. Put the 16-300 back on, blurry photos. I went back to where I bought the lens and explained what was happening. That's when the guy who sold me the lens looked at it for a second an said, "Ah! Here's your problem. Image Stabilization. Make sure that it's actually OFF for long exposure shots. When it's on, there is a little motor within the lens. If you leave it ON for long exposure shots, the little motor will work like it's supposed to, but the movements within the lens are enough to cause some blurring"
Your videos are always giving very useful info about photography. I'm from Turkey and i'm not very well in english but i understand well,your english is very clear. I love your videos.Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us.. Regards..oya
Awesome tips Toby, it's these kind of videos that really help the amateur's to differentiate themselfes from people with point-and-shooters! Keep up the great work!
On my X-E2 I've been experimenting with "back-button" focus and I'm finding my images are a bit sharper as a result. As with most things Fuji it's a bit of a trick and involves setting the camera to manual focus (which temporarily disables auto focus with a 1/2 shutter depress) and using the AF-L button to do a quick center point autofocus. Refine the focus manually, recompose if needed, and shoot. I find the focus is tighter and with the shutter button performing only one task I'm able to hold the camera steadier. BTW, great job on the videos. Short, informative, to the point, and devoid of sophomoric gear destruction.
Great Video. I've learned soooo much about my Canon T5i (18-135mm lens) from watching your videos. I just booked my 1st engagement shoot this weekend. Thanks so much....
It was only recently that I found out that the sweet spot was so narrow and that for many lenses as soon as you climb above f/9 you potentially negatively impact image quality.
Great point about turning off the IS (Image Stabilization) if you are using a tripod. I was having this problem until I turned off the IS. I was missing some great shot due to this issue. Thanks for sharing.
Great tips Toby. One common thing I see people doing is moving the camera when they push the shutter. This causes blurry photos and in my grandmother's case it causes heads to be cut off.
Hi Toby ,tks for the tips!!! u said not to shoot wide open, but we pay big amount and buy a prime lens with F2.8 etc...etc.... so what and when are the conditions that we should shoot wide open. ? Tks in advance for your answer, BR, Dilan
I enjoyed your 5 quick tips. Must have been over 40 years ago I heard some talk about the widest opening. We did the the exposure ring. You got the picture. Low light and available light work well with the right I.S.O + Shutter Speed and F stop equal a good picture when balanced. \
I often shoot at way longer shutter speeds than recommended. The other night I shot some handheld night shots at 1 full sec with a 16mm lens and a cropped sensor, that's about 30 times slower than the rule! What I do is I hold my breath, and really focus on relaxing and being still, then I hold down the trigger in sequential mode for 5 pics or so. The first one will usually be a little shaky because of the trigger motion, but a few of them will be perfectly sharp. It takes some concentration and patience, but it's possible to take what should be tripod pictures without a tripod!
You conveyed your message in very simple words. Much appreciated. :) I have seen that shutter speed video before and it did make a lot of difference. Thanks! This tip would definitely come in handy for Apertures in the range of 5.6-9. :)
Yea one thing i have recently been testing is turning silent shooting on as I have a Sony 7R3. I have only really tested in the longer focal ranges 300-849 but the further out I am, the more this seems to help. Guess the shutter stutter is just enough shooting long that it does shake the camera every so slightly? I have a year or so my belt, but by no means a pro or even semi pro. So with that being said, does this make sense to you?
Thank you so much Toby. This was very useful for me!. I have a question: if i want to take a nightscape picture and get a sharp full image, what should i do? i realized some of my nightscapes pictures are blurred in the corners, so i think i could be doing a wrong focusing.
Been shooting for over a year and mostly keep my aperture around 4, but I will try higher aperture with better lighting and higher shutter speed. I always try to keep ISO as low as possible without making the surroundings too dark.
Thank you for the concise reminders of things I had caught initially when I viewed a bunch of your videos right after getting my camera. I am a novice and this refresher reminded me about a couple things I heard and didn't retain. :-) I do have a general question as well. As I am learning to shoot full manual, is it better to error on the side of slightly under or over exposed? I use Lightroom as my way of cleaning up my newbie mistakes.
Oh another thing and this is a straight question is do you advocate turning stabilization actually on whilst shooting real Long? Like 400/500 mm and longer? I have recently heard quite a few regulars mentioning that you “may” want to do this. I assume because the need for absolute zero movement at those longer focal lengths. What you take on this?
sorry can you tell me whats the point of getting a prime lens if we shoot always wanting sharpness? i mean, isn't it better to just shoot with the kit lens at that point? or does it apply to them aswell? thank you so much for the video, 👍 new subscriber
Great channel this. Quick question: I have read on a lot of different sites that locking your mirror up makes a difference. Does it really make a noticeable difference?
I often like to consider myself knowledgeable when it comes to photography, but I found this video, as well as your others to be very helpful. I've subscribed :)
hello sir...😀 my name is Ajay from delhi and I'm truly inspired watching ur video on TH-cam.I just bought a new camera which is Nikon d5300 with kit len...this is a very great camera and I'm loving it playing around all the time...I have learned so much about the camera throw ur videos. thank u so much sir... Actually sir I love to take portrait and wildlife photo and this camera is giving me the best and sharp images but when I'm zooming them images becomes little blurry so I just want to know where's the problem is? and I also bought a tripod. Most of the times I prefer to use tripod only...
Toby, if you shooting wildlife, specially birds on a monopod, better to leave the IS o, in order to get sharp images. I have tried and found out that by using my Sirui monopod.
Great Insight. I need assistance. bought a 2nd hand Canon 24-70mm is mk2 lens . i have an EOS 60D. for some reason my indoor static photos of Christmas decorations were blurry. help please
CameraRec Toby I think you misunderstood me, because "still" means here in Germany also "since the first day I found you on TH-cam". I mean, your videos are so helpful and through you, I improved my photography skill tremendous. I think thats the right sentence.
On the other hand ... if shooting "moving subjects" (not still subjects as talked about in this video) like birds in flight I must say that many modern day cameras can produce good pictures @ ISO 1600 and even higher. What's more, it's better to have a little noise in a picture and it be sharp than not having any noise and blurry instead. So, don't be afraid to use high shutter speeds when shooting moving subjects.
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well. I have a stupid question for you though. When someone says focus on the eyes, do they mean just one of their eyes. Because how do you get the centre focus point over both eyes?
FlopsyGuitarBunny not a stupid question. If the face is . . facing you - it doesn't matter which eye - they are in the same plane so both will be in focus. If one eye is closer that is the one you should focus on.
I agree with everything besides tip #5: noise does not equal blur, and I think most people would rather sacrifice clarity by raising their ISO and gaining noise, than getting a blurry image or no image at all.
I have already read several tips for turning off IS while shooting on tripods. My point is whether my camera would take a sharper image at a higher shutter speed, say 1/100, with IS turned off, than with IS turned on?
+arabinda sen this depends on your lens. If you are shooting wide angle at 1/100, I think turning it off might be okay. But if you are using zoom, then probably keeping it on might help?
Just traded out a Canon 70d for the newer 80d, looking for some advice about the best l lens to go for. I favour the canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS 11 usm as per some of your reviews, what do you think. Kind Regards David Martin
Are you still planning on taking a more in depth look at the 3x lossless zoom of the 70d in video mode? To see if it is indeed lossless at 3x and whether you could get amazing depth of field advantages using it?A lot of us would probably find that very useful and informative. Please reply. Thanks
Hey! Thanks for the video.! What about how to hold camera, posture, elbows in or out? breathing? For beginner. I shoto with primes and i think some of the blur is caused by me sometimes.
You should be able to determine if the blur is you or not when you review the images that are blurry - what was the shutter speed. If you are shooting at shutter speeds that are violating the shutter speed/focal length rule you are going to get some blurry images. Elbows braced against chest - hold breath - but really you want to avoid shutter speeds where this needs to happen unless you have no other choice.
Great video Toby, haven't commented in a while! I find that the sweet spot for the lenses that I've used tends to be F11. I use this for portaiture along with a flash and you can split hairs in terms of image quality.
Hi Jack! That is pretty high for a sweet spot but I haven't carefully tested many Nikon lenses - so I will take your word for it. I would expect you might not see a huge difference between f/8-f/11- yes?
CameraRec Toby Not huge no, with the 50mm 1.8 (old version) it's pretty much sharp from about F4 upwards (cracking lens). With my tamron 17-50 2.8 it's sharpest around f11 I find, but anywhere in that range works a treat :) It's pretty sharp at most apertures but noticebly sharper from F4 onwards.
CameraRec Toby Even the tamron at F2.8 is OK the only problem with that lens is that the anti-shake takes a split second to kick in and if you get it in the "warming up" phase it just blurs any photo beyond recognition - not a sports lens :) Then again less of a problem with that focal length.
Hi, I have been quite unsuccessful when shooting in functions indoors either during day/night. I use a Nikon d90 , manual mode, auto focus locked. inspire if varying the aperture and shutter speed the images are blurred. another problem is when I photograph tall and wide objects like a temple in India. There temple tower are tall and contain lot of figurines and am unable to cover the tower and its contents fully and sharply. can you please advise me on the above situations? Thanks in advance.
i have canon t5i and currently using sigma lens 17-50mmf2.8. Am very frustrated because i cant have sharp images during indoor shoots or in lowlight condition. By the way using also a speedlite. Sorry am still learning with photography. Your advise will be so much appreciated. Thanx
Hi Toby, so I finally got my D7100 and went for the Nikon 18-200mm for maximum versatility in my first lens. I would like to get into landscape photography as well. Do you have any recommendations concerning tripods?
1. Don't shoot wide open. Shoot between F5.6 and F9 for sharpest photos.
2. Keep your shutter speed higher than the focal length of the lens/keep shutter speed high enough to freeze the action.
3. Use the center focus point.
4. Turn IS/OS/VC off if you're using a tripod.
5. Keep ISO low to avoid excess noise in the image. Take time to move the subject closer to the light.
Thanks
learn to stand and hold the camera and squeeze that shutter button gently!
With theses settings if the image is too dark is it best to lighten it up in post
@@carlosparra8976 or use the 2 second timer
this applies to video too?
You know what? I have had a very bad time with serrios bad trafick accident here in sweden. In my fight to get better, i´ve bought a camera, Canon 70D and 3 lences. Now im watching all your videos, learning every time. Starting to "dear" myself taking some very nice pictures of family, nature, things.. learnd to "see" lights and scenery. Im getting out walking. So I cant thank you enough for you and your sweet staff getting me back to life... you are so fantastic explaining for "dummies" like med. Please escuse my poor english in writing😄
Very lovely regards to you all..
Søren from Sweden...
Hello Søren
I hope that you have recovered well, from your accident, for which I'm sorry that it happened.
Happy shooting, smiling, walking, dancing, laughing.
Love to your family and you.
From London 🌞 🐾🐾🌞😷🌈
What a game changer to follow your very simple advice: 1,2,3,4 steps!! I am back one track with so much more to work with - thank you very much..
I really like your tips. They are easy to follow and I have learnt so much from them. Thank you Toby.
+Pauline Follett Thanks Pauline, I really appreciate that!
Really simple tips clearly set out. Now I feel more empowered. Thank you.
my tip for a sharper picture. is frame your subject. then use your magnifier button
(the one you use to zoom in on a already recorded image) in the same way .. select the area you want to focus on... moving around the frame as you would normally, use it in review mode. Once you are where you want to be, manually fine focus. Simply press your shutter release when your happy. Provided you have only moved the focus ring it will capture the pre framed image. I do this using a Nikon D5300 and the 16 -300mm tamron zoom lens but i only shoot using a tripod.may be that could be a little messy if you hand hold something heavy. Try it see if it does it with you're camera.
All makes so much sense. Wish everyone did tutorials this way...Tim in Ireland.
Wow! These are 5 really good all-round tips. Nice to know about image stablisation and tripods!
Great tips for sharper images! Thanks for this tutorial...
Tip #4 at @03:17 is very true. I had just bought a new lens a year ago (Tamron 16-300) and I was taking some long exposure traffic pictures, but I was frustrated as hell when I looked at my photos and there was some blur, even though I was using a tripod. Switched lenses to a kit lens, Long Exposure Shot was sharp. Put the 16-300 back on, blurry photos.
I went back to where I bought the lens and explained what was happening. That's when the guy who sold me the lens looked at it for a second an said, "Ah! Here's your problem. Image Stabilization. Make sure that it's actually OFF for long exposure shots. When it's on, there is a little motor within the lens. If you leave it ON for long exposure shots, the little motor will work like it's supposed to, but the movements within the lens are enough to cause some blurring"
hersh23 its kinda cute when people are dumb.
Jpk Channel Lol. Well that was uncalled for.
@@kh.g4049 Kinda cute when people are assholes too. You must be adorable.
You are a good person to listen to for advice on photography. keep on reaching out to people who are in need and teaching what you know. Cheers!
Tip #4 is pure Gold!...
Thanks a lot!!!
So glad I could help. Enjoy!
Learning the old things in a new way
Basic , but straight to the point. Thanks
Really clear and helpful. Many thanks.
That was clear and concise, thank you for that. Have subscribed.
Your videos are always giving very useful info about photography. I'm from Turkey and i'm not very well in english but i understand well,your english is very clear.
I love your videos.Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us..
Regards..oya
you always give great ideas and pointers, I use a lot of the stuff I have learned from you to help me start taking pictures and videos
+William A. Horton Great!
Awesome tips Toby, it's these kind of videos that really help the amateur's to differentiate themselfes from people with point-and-shooters! Keep up the great work!
Thank you!
On my X-E2 I've been experimenting with "back-button" focus and I'm finding my images are a bit sharper as a result. As with most things Fuji it's a bit of a trick and involves setting the camera to manual focus (which temporarily disables auto focus with a 1/2 shutter depress) and using the AF-L button to do a quick center point autofocus. Refine the focus manually, recompose if needed, and shoot. I find the focus is tighter and with the shutter button performing only one task I'm able to hold the camera steadier. BTW, great job on the videos. Short, informative, to the point, and devoid of sophomoric gear destruction.
Thanks a lot, Toby. Really useful tips.
Waiting for my first camera to arrive and have watched all your videos. Thank you for great videos!
What camera did you get? And thank you!
Hi Toby
Just to say many thanks for your tips. Really helpful, useful and clear.
Thank you very much. Great information, and great explanation.
you are awesome!! pleasure to listen and look at! I have learned so much from you. thank you Toby!
Thanks for the tips. You are clear and concise. I just subscribed. Also, happy thanksgiving.
+Jonathan Hubbs Thanks! Appreciated.
Wow... Happy to see someone with a Sony in his hands :) And thanks for the tips
Thats a Canon but alrighty
Great Video. I've learned soooo much about my Canon T5i (18-135mm lens) from watching your videos. I just booked my 1st engagement shoot this weekend. Thanks so much....
Very exciting. Are you shooting the session with your T5i and 18-135 stm?
Yes I am....
Great video, I really like the way that you explain things, any quick advice on getting good shots for indoor portraits and short videos?
That was very interesting and very, very helpful. Thanks a lot, Toby.
Great tips, short & sweet👍
Love your videos and tips and reviews!!!
Great Channel.. !!
5 Quick Tips for Sharper Images with any camera and lens !
very good episode !
thank you toby !
best regards from cologne,
andreas
Thank you!
A short, sharp video to give some nice tips ;-).
Didn't know about the first tip regarding the aperture, very interesting.
It was only recently that I found out that the sweet spot was so narrow and that for many lenses as soon as you climb above f/9 you potentially negatively impact image quality.
Hi I enjoyed your tips on focusing thanks a millionI have learned to use back button focusing and I love it
Thank you for the great video. You are always very informative.
Thanks!
Thanks for the useful tips - much appreciated
The best video, very very helpful.
Thank you so much for clear explanation.
Wonderful video-thank you
Great point about turning off the IS (Image Stabilization) if you are using a tripod. I was having this problem until I turned off the IS. I was missing some great shot due to this issue. Thanks for sharing.
It is one of those sneaky settings you don't really think about or suspect and it doesn't always bite ya.
Great tips Toby. One common thing I see people doing is moving the camera when they push the shutter. This causes blurry photos and in my grandmother's case it causes heads to be cut off.
Good tip- It can be hard to hold it all still, sometimes I use 2-second timer to avoid shaking the camera. Thanks!
Great advice Toby.
Hey Toby, thanks for the tips they actually confirm everything I was already thinking
loving these videos. Thanks for sharing. loving all the tips and all the basics videos. Just followed on Facebook and subscribed.
Very instructive !
Hi Toby ,tks for the tips!!! u said not to shoot wide open, but we pay big amount and buy a prime lens with F2.8 etc...etc.... so what and when are the conditions that we should shoot wide open. ? Tks in advance for your answer, BR, Dilan
I enjoyed your 5 quick tips. Must have been over 40 years ago I heard some talk about the widest opening. We did the the exposure ring. You got the picture. Low light and available light work well with the right I.S.O + Shutter Speed and F stop equal a good picture when balanced.
\
Hey thanks great pointers!
I often shoot at way longer shutter speeds than recommended. The other night I shot some handheld night shots at 1 full sec with a 16mm lens and a cropped sensor, that's about 30 times slower than the rule!
What I do is I hold my breath, and really focus on relaxing and being still, then I hold down the trigger in sequential mode for 5 pics or so. The first one will usually be a little shaky because of the trigger motion, but a few of them will be perfectly sharp. It takes some concentration and patience, but it's possible to take what should be tripod pictures without a tripod!
great videos im just starting out and the canon 70d is my 1st camera.. your videos help out a Ton!!!!
Thank you and I like the last tip particularly... move your subject to a better light position.
It is the one that takes the most effort but arguably has the best payoff. Thanks!
Great tips! Thanks for posting this.
photorec ready fo that jack sesh at any time
Great advice!
You conveyed your message in very simple words. Much appreciated. :) I have seen that shutter speed video before and it did make a lot of difference. Thanks! This tip would definitely come in handy for Apertures in the range of 5.6-9. :)
Yea one thing i have recently been testing is turning silent shooting on as I have a Sony 7R3. I have only really tested in the longer focal ranges 300-849 but the further out I am, the more this seems to help. Guess the shutter stutter is just enough shooting long that it does shake the camera every so slightly? I have a year or so my belt, but by no means a pro or even semi pro. So with that being said, does this make sense to you?
Thank you so much Toby. This was very useful for me!. I have a question: if i want to take a nightscape picture and get a sharp full image, what should i do?
i realized some of my nightscapes pictures are blurred in the corners, so i think i could be doing a wrong focusing.
This was extremely helpful! Thank you 🙏🏾
Been shooting for over a year and mostly keep my aperture around 4, but I will try higher aperture with better lighting and higher shutter speed. I always try to keep ISO as low as possible without making the surroundings too dark.
Thank you for the concise reminders of things I had caught initially when I viewed a bunch of your videos right after getting my camera. I am a novice and this refresher reminded me about a couple things I heard and didn't retain. :-) I do have a general question as well. As I am learning to shoot full manual, is it better to error on the side of slightly under or over exposed? I use Lightroom as my way of cleaning up my newbie mistakes.
Good tips, good video, keep them coming please !
Thank you! I do hope to get back to some more regular tip like videos soon.
Oh another thing and this is a straight question is do you advocate turning stabilization actually on whilst shooting real Long? Like 400/500 mm and longer? I have recently heard quite a few regulars mentioning that you “may” want to do this. I assume because the need for absolute zero movement at those longer focal lengths. What you take on this?
sorry can you tell me whats the point of getting a prime lens if we shoot always wanting sharpness? i mean, isn't it better to just shoot with the kit lens at that point? or does it apply to them aswell?
thank you so much for the video, 👍 new subscriber
Great channel this. Quick question: I have read on a lot of different sites that locking your mirror up makes a difference. Does it really make a noticeable difference?
Abraham Dakin At certain shutter speeds it absolutely makes a difference. More in this video Mirror Lockup on the Canon 70D - The What? and Why?
Thanks Toby for this vid great info
cool video, thanx for the tips ☺
I often like to consider myself knowledgeable when it comes to photography, but I found this video, as well as your others to be very helpful. I've subscribed :)
Hadn't heard of Tip 4, love it! Thanks, Toby :)
great tips..) cheers mate
That's good info on turning off stabilization when on a tripod.
hello sir...😀 my name is Ajay from delhi and I'm truly inspired watching ur video on TH-cam.I just bought a new camera which is Nikon d5300 with kit len...this is a very great camera and I'm loving it playing around all the time...I have learned so much about the camera throw ur videos. thank u so much sir... Actually sir I love to take portrait and wildlife photo and this camera is giving me the best and sharp images but when I'm zooming them images becomes little blurry so I just want to know where's the problem is? and I also bought a tripod. Most of the times I prefer to use tripod only...
Thank you!
Toby, if you shooting wildlife, specially birds on a monopod, better to leave the IS o, in order to get sharp images. I have tried and found out that by using my Sirui monopod.
Fantastic. Thanks.
Good and clear tips.
Thank you !
Great Insight. I need assistance. bought a 2nd hand Canon 24-70mm is mk2 lens . i have an EOS 60D. for some reason my indoor static photos of Christmas decorations were blurry. help please
Very helpful tips...I still love your videos.
I am glad you "still" love them ;)
CameraRec Toby I think you misunderstood me, because "still" means here in Germany also "since the first day I found you on TH-cam". I mean, your videos are so helpful and through you, I improved my photography skill tremendous. I think thats the right sentence.
desk0z :) I thought that was the case - I was just teasing! Thanks!
Love your channel, subscribed.
whats the ISO sweet spot when your indoor or in low light?
+L BS depends on your camera and lens you are using. Some cameras handle iso better than others.
+L BS with flash (400) or no flash (800) ?
Francine Vo with flash my friend.
best site on the web for DSLR issues! hands down the best!
Thank you!
nice n helpful tips, thanks
Great tips! Now where is the shutter video?
What about the sharpening setting in picture style or picture control? Doesn’t that affect sharpness?
On the other hand ... if shooting "moving subjects" (not still subjects as talked about in this video) like birds in flight I must say that many modern day cameras can produce good pictures @ ISO 1600 and even higher. What's more, it's better to have a little noise in a picture and it be sharp than not having any noise and blurry instead. So, don't be afraid to use high shutter speeds when shooting moving subjects.
Geeze, I forgot about the sweet spot. for the f stops. Thanks for the info very helpful.
Nice one, Subscribed. Please keep'em comin...
I really enjoy your videos. You explain things very well. I have a stupid question for you though. When someone says focus on the eyes, do they mean just one of their eyes. Because how do you get the centre focus point over both eyes?
FlopsyGuitarBunny not a stupid question. If the face is . . facing you - it doesn't matter which eye - they are in the same plane so both will be in focus. If one eye is closer that is the one you should focus on.
CameraRec Toby Thank you.
Hi.how to get focus sharp in fading light ….say during and after sunset in a beech….I appreciate your help
I agree with everything besides tip #5: noise does not equal blur, and I think most people would rather sacrifice clarity by raising their ISO and gaining noise, than getting a blurry image or no image at all.
I have already read several tips for turning off IS while shooting on tripods. My point is whether my camera would take a sharper image at a higher shutter speed, say 1/100, with IS turned off, than with IS turned on?
+arabinda sen this depends on your lens. If you are shooting wide angle at 1/100, I think turning it off might be okay. But if you are using zoom, then probably keeping it on might help?
Nice and to the point. I have a tip for sharper images ; use a monopod for some (not all) shots.
Roland Herrera Good tip! Thanks.
Just traded out a Canon 70d for the newer 80d, looking for some advice about the best l lens to go for. I favour the canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS 11 usm as per some of your reviews, what do you think.
Kind Regards
David Martin
Are you still planning on taking a more in depth look at the 3x lossless zoom of the 70d in video mode? To see if it is indeed lossless at 3x and whether you could get amazing depth of field advantages using it?A lot of us would probably find that very useful and informative. Please reply. Thanks
It is still on my list but I am now away from home for 2 weeks and don't have the 70D with me. Keep asking though and it will happen. Thanks.
CameraRec Toby great thank you for the reply
Hey! Thanks for the video.! What about how to hold camera, posture, elbows in or out? breathing? For beginner. I shoto with primes and i think some of the blur is caused by me sometimes.
You should be able to determine if the blur is you or not when you review the images that are blurry - what was the shutter speed. If you are shooting at shutter speeds that are violating the shutter speed/focal length rule you are going to get some blurry images. Elbows braced against chest - hold breath - but really you want to avoid shutter speeds where this needs to happen unless you have no other choice.
good vid, cool sweater
Yeah I agree, I also noticed the sweater. :D
Your videos are very good.
Thank you- Always happy to answer questions you might have.
Great video Toby, haven't commented in a while! I find that the sweet spot for the lenses that I've used tends to be F11. I use this for portaiture along with a flash and you can split hairs in terms of image quality.
Hi Jack! That is pretty high for a sweet spot but I haven't carefully tested many Nikon lenses - so I will take your word for it. I would expect you might not see a huge difference between f/8-f/11- yes?
CameraRec Toby Not huge no, with the 50mm 1.8 (old version) it's pretty much sharp from about F4 upwards (cracking lens). With my tamron 17-50 2.8 it's sharpest around f11 I find, but anywhere in that range works a treat :) It's pretty sharp at most apertures but noticebly sharper from F4 onwards.
CameraRec Toby
Even the tamron at F2.8 is OK the only problem with that lens is that the anti-shake takes a split second to kick in and if you get it in the "warming up" phase it just blurs any photo beyond recognition - not a sports lens :) Then again less of a problem with that focal length.
Hi, I have been quite unsuccessful when shooting in functions indoors either during day/night. I use a Nikon d90 , manual mode, auto focus locked. inspire if varying the aperture and shutter speed the images are blurred.
another problem is when I photograph tall and wide objects like a temple in India. There temple tower are tall and contain lot of figurines and am unable to cover the tower and its contents fully and sharply.
can you please advise me on the above situations? Thanks in advance.
i have canon t5i and currently using sigma lens 17-50mmf2.8. Am very frustrated because i cant have sharp images during indoor shoots or in lowlight condition. By the way using also a speedlite. Sorry am still learning with photography. Your advise will be so much appreciated. Thanx
Hi Toby, so I finally got my D7100 and went for the Nikon 18-200mm for maximum versatility in my first lens. I would like to get into landscape photography as well. Do you have any recommendations concerning tripods?
A solid budget tripod is the Dolica Proline Dolica AX620B100 62-Inch Proline Tripod and Ball Head: Review and Feature Tour
Thanks Toby
All good. Thank you.