I appreciate you putting out this video you are the only person to show a seal twister.. many other videos out there on installing the seal kit but you're the only person to show putting the inner seal in ...appreciate it
I just did mine, boy what a job. The kits were 25.00, now they split the kits, one for the Piston,one for the parking gland. The kits are now75.00,plus tax.
I got my cylinders rebuilt and your video helped a lot. I did find a great way to get cylinder head back in where the inner lock ring to go in easily. I used a pair of large channel locks to compress the ring and it goes in really easily every time. Just a little FYI.
Great video, some won’t admit mistakes like I do, first John Deere cylinder I did, we had to buy one 😃😃, I tore that thing up trying to get the rod out, it look like it went threw a rock crusher 🤣😂…After I learned from my mistake there easy now to me.. thanks for sharing this great video, hope people watch it and don’t do what I did 😃
It really helps to heat oil to 180 degrees and let piston seal warm up to install easy, Just saying it what I do anyway and a band on it to install easily in tube
Just did this on the tilt cylinder on my 460 loader, first time ever going into a cylinder, video was a big help, thanks! I destroyed the "removal tool" the 1st time around. Read a few threads and I put bondo in the split ring retaining groove, sanded flush, and popped it right out. The bondo was easy enough to chip out with dental picks.
@TheHeavyWrench ever hear of anyone melting aluminum or brazing deep grooves inside cylinders? Older mechanic mentioned it to me when I bought a fixer upper excavator a while back but didn't try it...just sanded the edges of the grooves, honed, and rebuilt it but the bucket drifts when fully extended. Really enjoy your channel BTW!
Hi Phil, I have a 527 loader and the main loader cylinders are leaky. The ram (rod) diameter is 40mm. The cylinder nut has four, 10mm notches. I've loosened the nut and tapped in the threads (carrier w/the seals and rod nut) but the retaining ring seems to be a solid race (rather than a snap ring). Please, can you explain how to remove this type of retaining ring? Thanks from eastern AZ.
My JD loader(120R) has about 2 to 3 inches of play in it, I can grab the loader arm and push it down and pull it up. Do you think the cylinders need to be rebuilt or could it be the valve?
When re installing the end cap assembly in the cylinder couldn't you have reversed the plastic split ring in the cylinder so the steel split ring on the end cap assembly could have gone in smoother?
I appreciate you putting out this video you are the only person to show a seal twister.. many other videos out there on installing the seal kit but you're the only person to show putting the inner seal in ...appreciate it
Great video. Thanks
Keep content like this coming, love watching this type of stuff.
Whoa you wear glasses?! You look much more intelligent now! 🤣😜
Awesome a heavy wrench repair Video 🤟
Nicely done Phil, with a guest appearance from the old time welder. 👍
I just did mine, boy what a job. The kits were 25.00, now they split the kits, one for the Piston,one for the parking gland. The kits are now75.00,plus tax.
There 126.00 now 12-23
Must be the later 460 loader, as you don't have the wire lock that has to be removed on the earlier s/n 460 loaders. Good video
Great video. Thanks for uploading.
Great video. I have to rebuild 2 lift cyls off a JD 460 loader tomorrow. Good help!
I got my cylinders rebuilt and your video helped a lot. I did find a great way to get cylinder head back in where the inner lock ring to go in easily. I used a pair of large channel locks to compress the ring and it goes in really easily every time. Just a little FYI.
Great video, some won’t admit mistakes like I do, first John Deere cylinder I did, we had to buy one 😃😃, I tore that thing up trying to get the rod out, it look like it went threw a rock crusher 🤣😂…After I learned from my mistake there easy now to me.. thanks for sharing this great video, hope people watch it and don’t do what I did 😃
Thanks for sharing, I am on my first rebuild and learned a lot
You’ll never forget it Lololo
It really helps to heat oil to 180 degrees and let piston seal warm up to install easy,
Just saying it what I do anyway and a band on it to install easily in tube
Couldn’t have done it with out the old time welder. Lol great video
Just did this on the tilt cylinder on my 460 loader, first time ever going into a cylinder, video was a big help, thanks! I destroyed the "removal tool" the 1st time around. Read a few threads and I put bondo in the split ring retaining groove, sanded flush, and popped it right out. The bondo was easy enough to chip out with dental picks.
@TheHeavyWrench ever hear of anyone melting aluminum or brazing deep grooves inside cylinders? Older mechanic mentioned it to me when I bought a fixer upper excavator a while back but didn't try it...just sanded the edges of the grooves, honed, and rebuilt it but the bucket drifts when fully extended. Really enjoy your channel BTW!
Thank you no I never heard of that. I usually get them re chromed if they are bad.
Hi Phil, I have a 527 loader and the main loader cylinders are leaky. The ram (rod) diameter is 40mm. The cylinder nut has four, 10mm notches. I've loosened the nut and tapped in the threads (carrier w/the seals and rod nut) but the retaining ring seems to be a solid race (rather than a snap ring). Please, can you explain how to remove this type of retaining ring? Thanks from eastern AZ.
Putting Japanese parts on a John Deere 😃
My JD loader(120R) has about 2 to 3 inches of play in it, I can grab the loader arm and push it down and pull it up. Do you think the cylinders need to be rebuilt or could it be the valve?
👍
do you have a video to rebuild a bucket cylinder for a 300 loader
When you're reinstalling the cylinder, do you use Teflon tape on the hose fittings?
No
Is that a tilt cylinder?
When re installing the end cap assembly in the cylinder couldn't you have reversed the plastic split ring in the cylinder so the steel split ring on the end cap assembly could have gone in smoother?
Thats what i was thinking