*I LOVE DYNO DAY!!!* 94HP on a NA 310 is pretty darn good! My 1755 was right at 86 when I dynoed it. Boy, that's annoying about Herman! I thought only farmalls had throttles that wouldn't stay put lol! Yep, she needs some governor adjustment! I'm going to get my 1855 on the dyno as soon as it dries up enough to drag the dyno over to the shop. AWESOME VIDEO! Thanks for sharing!
The 453 powered Olivers are particularly bad about throttle creep. The governor really pulls against the linkage at wide open, so much so that there is a spring to counteract it. The original owners had modified the throttle so it worked backwards, and they added a foot throttle, so that spring was gone. I found one that is close, but need to get an oem one. Adjusting that spring has been a challenge! I knew it also wasn't getting full rpm, but hey, who doesn't want to see a 1950 on the dyno! Now I'm inspired to get that governor right to see how much of a power difference it makes.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yes! Definitely! Foot throttle and backward throttle lever huh? That's... interesting! Right on! Everyone likes to see a Detroit on the dyno! That's pretty much my dad's most-wanted tractor. He keeps looking for one but hasn't found the right deal yet. Are the injectors stock on it? I'm sure the governor will make quite a bit of difference. I noticed that on a 6-71 I had. Looking forward to seeing and hearing -her- him grunt!
Working on Detroits is still pretty new to me, so I didn't even think to see what injectors were in it when I had the valve cover off a year ago. I did adjust the valves and bought the tool to set the injector height and got that done. Live and learn! When Blane bought it from the original owners, it had this hay grapple thing on the back with a swivel seat. They would use it to get hay out of the lowlands in the sandhills of Nebraska, and I guess a foot throttle was handy for that. Blane took all that stuff off the back and got a factory seat on, but hadn't fixed the throttle. It only took a couple times of backwards throttle before that got fixed!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris It's both weird and pretty cool what people will come up with to suit their needs. I'd be surprised if the injectors are not stock, but if you wanted a few more ponies... lol. I do remember seeing pictures on facebook. Pretty cool project! Yes, the backward throttle would be pretty hard to deal with lol!
This is one of my favorite videos and I watch a lot of them. I love watching them on the dyno!! Like to see some of them whites on there also. Thank you sir!!
I was farming with a two wheel drive 2050 in1978, Great tractor, only really big horsepower we ever had to work with. Our 1969 model was rated 119 hp at the PTO, so pulling the same number on a 50 year old tractor is pretty impressive. Only had 6x16 plow for it. In our soil it could have pulled two more bottoms. Great tractor. The 1950 with the Detroit diesel - another great memory. My brother was working at an Oliver dealership shortly after these hit the market. Lots of farmers in our area were just updating their 1950's era tractors to modern late 1960's equipment. The John Deere guys were really pissed about the 1950 Olivers they bought to replace their old two cylinder Johnny Poppers. Went from a tractor with no RPMs, to something that sounded like a run away chain saw. Lots of guys wanted their money back after a couple days scaring themselves to death with these new Olivers. Funny, or sad thing about the 2050: we ran a feed mill with a 1953 Super W6 International. It was laid up one day, so I hooked the 2050 to the feed mill. Unfortunately, the PTO on the 2050 wasn't up to the task and I snapped the internal PTO drive shaft while grinding feed. Ouch. Never did get it fixed.
Regardless of HP, what you want to do is dog each tractor after say 500 hours, use as the dyno is like a loadbank on a generator. Running them under a good load gets rid of any deisel wash polashing of the bore's, and helps clean out the carbon build up in the cylinder and exhaust.
So what's the process here? Crank down the load until the engines RPMs start to pull down then take a reading? Seems like where you decide to stop and take the reading could be fairly subjective.
Close. You open the throttle which typically puts the engine about 200 rpm above its rated speed. You then draw it down until the pto is turning either 540 or 1000 rpm, depending on which speed you are testing at. That is the point at which you read the horsepower on the gauge. On this dyno I can adjust the load sensor for a range of rpms, but the reading is only accurate at the speed it is set up for. I can keep pulling it down and then the reading will go higher, but it's not at the rpm it's calibrated for, so the reading is no longer accurate. Essentially, it's a mathematical formula, and if you change the constants, the variables mean nothing.
How does horsepower at the PTO compare with HP at the flywheel? I would imagine you would have about 15 HP in losses through the gears and shaft due to friction, etc.
You've got it. In the 80s it was around 10% of your flywheel horsepower went to turning gears and viscous drag. I would guess it's a little better today with better thinner oils and more precise machining.
I've got to read up, but I think I can just add shims to the governor to get my extra 200 rpm. Dad told me we never sold a Super 99 or 990, and I'm not aware of them selling any 1900s or 1950s. For most of that time, it was a bigger tractor than what was wanted in our area. All of my Detroits came from out west, and I don't come across many that were originally from Michigan.
Sooo... I did a little looking figuring someone would have a video on adjusting that no-load speed, and I have no-luck. Then I look up a PDF of the procedure, and you add shims, but if you have to go more than 50 rpm, then you need to recheck the governor gap. If you have to reset the governor gap, then you need to re-adjust the rack. Now I'm singing "the foot bone is connected to the leg bone, the leg bone is connected to the knee bone..." Herman might have to wait a little while to get his extra 200 rpm.
My guess is it has been that way since the engine was swapped. The original owners lived in the remote sandhills of Nebraska, so when it was time for an overhaul, they pulled the engine, drove it to the closest Detroit Diesel shop and swapped for a freshly rebuilt one. I'd bet they one they got was set for 2400 and they just lived with it. They were so remote, it took them a day's drive just to get to the DD shop, so I can see why they did the swap. Their remoteness was also their reason for selling Herman. They wanted to get an airplane so they could get somewhere without being on the road for a day or two.
I feel that the "Direct Horsepower Measure" of this dyno isn't particularly accurate or reliable judging by your results on "Herman". I think the best way would be to use the "Torque" measurement option the gauge talks about. Measure the torque, and then do the math separately to figure out the PTO power. The equation is really easy: HP = Torque x RPM / 5252. You could figure out max power pretty easily by taking a few different measurements. For example, find the max torque a tractor will take at 570 PTO RPM, the max torque it can reach at 540 PTO RPM, and the max torque it will take at 500 RPM. Then do the calculation for all three, and one of those numbers should yield the most horsepower.
Absolutely. I ran one of those old A&W dyno's for years before we bought our new one, and the direct reading wasn't that accurate unless you really paid attention to where you set the bar. Also, you should be pulling to rated RPM for the Rated power of the engines, which will be a bit lower than the power at PTO Speeds. Does it matter, not really, either is a good test. But to know whether they have what they are supposed to have, you test Rated power like the factory or Nebraska did. Either way, great video.
Horsepower is an imaginary measurement anyway. Engines only produce torque. Horsepower is calculated from torque. HP= TQ x RPM/5252. So if you have a HP number with the rpm it was at, and you wanna know the TQ, just use the formula.
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P.T.O. H.P. is how tractors are measured. Torque twists, it don't pull. Horses pull, hence the term horsepower. Weight over distance and time.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it never does it's just wide open under load. I understand if you really want or need to know exact hp. However ask the people who blew their tractor up if they would dyno again...
That PTO shaft has a shield. It's not a modern plastic one, but it is the one the dyno came with. It can free wheel on the shaft if something touches it, but I don't do that.
I never noticed that. Don't want ya to think I'm getting at you bud it's just that there's so many horror storys with pto shafts. Keep up the great vids
![ALLY - OH MY! [ REACTION ] 'Amarin Nitibhon' #ALLY_OHMY #ALLY #allynitibhon #แอลลี่](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nX9qpHjVfbQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I learned something new today first time watching a tractor being dyno tested. Thank you.
Like that you still use the old iron on your farm.
Injector cleaner does wonders, Castle fireball is what I use. Nice tractors.
Nothing will ever sound as friken Awesome as an old Detroit
I run a Cockshutt 1850, White 140, and White 2-155 on my farm. Great tractors!! Just replaced the clutch in the 1850.
*I LOVE DYNO DAY!!!* 94HP on a NA 310 is pretty darn good! My 1755 was right at 86 when I dynoed it. Boy, that's annoying about Herman! I thought only farmalls had throttles that wouldn't stay put lol! Yep, she needs some governor adjustment! I'm going to get my 1855 on the dyno as soon as it dries up enough to drag the dyno over to the shop. AWESOME VIDEO! Thanks for sharing!
The 453 powered Olivers are particularly bad about throttle creep. The governor really pulls against the linkage at wide open, so much so that there is a spring to counteract it. The original owners had modified the throttle so it worked backwards, and they added a foot throttle, so that spring was gone. I found one that is close, but need to get an oem one. Adjusting that spring has been a challenge! I knew it also wasn't getting full rpm, but hey, who doesn't want to see a 1950 on the dyno! Now I'm inspired to get that governor right to see how much of a power difference it makes.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Yes! Definitely! Foot throttle and backward throttle lever huh? That's... interesting! Right on! Everyone likes to see a Detroit on the dyno! That's pretty much my dad's most-wanted tractor. He keeps looking for one but hasn't found the right deal yet. Are the injectors stock on it? I'm sure the governor will make quite a bit of difference. I noticed that on a 6-71 I had. Looking forward to seeing and hearing -her- him grunt!
Working on Detroits is still pretty new to me, so I didn't even think to see what injectors were in it when I had the valve cover off a year ago. I did adjust the valves and bought the tool to set the injector height and got that done. Live and learn!
When Blane bought it from the original owners, it had this hay grapple thing on the back with a swivel seat. They would use it to get hay out of the lowlands in the sandhills of Nebraska, and I guess a foot throttle was handy for that. Blane took all that stuff off the back and got a factory seat on, but hadn't fixed the throttle. It only took a couple times of backwards throttle before that got fixed!
@@ThatOliverGuyChris It's both weird and pretty cool what people will come up with to suit their needs. I'd be surprised if the injectors are not stock, but if you wanted a few more ponies... lol. I do remember seeing pictures on facebook. Pretty cool project! Yes, the backward throttle would be pretty hard to deal with lol!
This is one of my favorite videos and I watch a lot of them. I love watching them on the dyno!! Like to see some of them whites on there also. Thank you sir!!
Thank you. I plan on doing more in the future, and now that I have more cameras, it should make for a better video.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris Love that screaming Detroit
I was farming with a two wheel drive 2050 in1978, Great tractor, only really big horsepower we ever had to work with. Our 1969 model was rated 119 hp at the PTO, so pulling the same number on a 50 year old tractor is pretty impressive. Only had 6x16 plow for it. In our soil it could have pulled two more bottoms. Great tractor. The 1950 with the Detroit diesel - another great memory. My brother was working at an Oliver dealership shortly after these hit the market. Lots of farmers in our area were just updating their 1950's era tractors to modern late 1960's equipment. The John Deere guys were really pissed about the 1950 Olivers they bought to replace their old two cylinder Johnny Poppers. Went from a tractor with no RPMs, to something that sounded like a run away chain saw. Lots of guys wanted their money back after a couple days scaring themselves to death with these new Olivers.
Funny, or sad thing about the 2050: we ran a feed mill with a 1953 Super W6 International. It was laid up one day, so I hooked the 2050 to the feed mill. Unfortunately, the PTO on the 2050 wasn't up to the task and I snapped the internal PTO drive shaft while grinding feed. Ouch. Never did get it fixed.
Thanks,for sharing your Oliver history, I enjoy hearing about what these tractors did over the years.
I remember Blane pulling that ol gal at our local pulls she'd walk the dog an kick the cat.christine loved that tractor
The 2050's right where it should be too.
Gotdamn that 2 stroke Detroit screams
Even the throttle lever couldn't handle the sound lol
120 hip on a1000 rpm pro now that’s impressive.
Regardless of HP, what you want to do is dog each tractor after say 500 hours, use as the dyno is like a loadbank on a generator. Running them under a good load gets rid of any deisel wash polashing of the bore's, and helps clean out the carbon build up in the cylinder and exhaust.
I would say Herman's really healthy still.
Our 185 dyno was 235 brand new out of the box
That's a hot 1755!
thats pretty neat. never seen a dyno like that
What engines in that 2050 please ? sounds great, thanks for the video. Every days a learning day..
It's a Hercules D4800. 478 cubic inches, naturally aspirated.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris …..Thanks for that
Man that Detroit is screaming
So what's the process here? Crank down the load until the engines RPMs start to pull down then take a reading? Seems like where you decide to stop and take the reading could be fairly subjective.
Close. You open the throttle which typically puts the engine about 200 rpm above its rated speed. You then draw it down until the pto is turning either 540 or 1000 rpm, depending on which speed you are testing at. That is the point at which you read the horsepower on the gauge. On this dyno I can adjust the load sensor for a range of rpms, but the reading is only accurate at the speed it is set up for. I can keep pulling it down and then the reading will go higher, but it's not at the rpm it's calibrated for, so the reading is no longer accurate. Essentially, it's a mathematical formula, and if you change the constants, the variables mean nothing.
Diesel Kleen is a great additive for yer injectors, we use em on the oil rigs and you can tell the difference
How does horsepower at the PTO compare with HP at the flywheel? I would imagine you would have about 15 HP in losses through the gears and shaft due to friction, etc.
You've got it. In the 80s it was around 10% of your flywheel horsepower went to turning gears and viscous drag. I would guess it's a little better today with better thinner oils and more precise machining.
(“?”) is what size of injectors you have in the 1950 ? 👨🌾
I have no idea. I should pop the valve cover off and take a look.
This is the awesome stuff!
Thanks! Once get Herman's governor adjusted, I'll do this again to see the results.
Chris Losey Speaking of which, did you ever fix her? Should be 2,650 wide open, no load.
Imagine that 1950 with a straight exhaust.
I've got a couple videos with a straight pipe on it.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris awesome! I’ll have to check them out.
Nice work
Cool video chris! I suppose U will have to reset the rack on Herman? Did u guys sell many 1900s or 1950s new?
I've got to read up, but I think I can just add shims to the governor to get my extra 200 rpm. Dad told me we never sold a Super 99 or 990, and I'm not aware of them selling any 1900s or 1950s. For most of that time, it was a bigger tractor than what was wanted in our area. All of my Detroits came from out west, and I don't come across many that were originally from Michigan.
Sooo... I did a little looking figuring someone would have a video on adjusting that no-load speed, and I have no-luck. Then I look up a PDF of the procedure, and you add shims, but if you have to go more than 50 rpm, then you need to recheck the governor gap. If you have to reset the governor gap, then you need to re-adjust the rack. Now I'm singing "the foot bone is connected to the leg bone, the leg bone is connected to the knee bone..." Herman might have to wait a little while to get his extra 200 rpm.
Chris Losey lol ya that snowballed in a hurry. Wonder how long it’s been set like that
My guess is it has been that way since the engine was swapped. The original owners lived in the remote sandhills of Nebraska, so when it was time for an overhaul, they pulled the engine, drove it to the closest Detroit Diesel shop and swapped for a freshly rebuilt one. I'd bet they one they got was set for 2400 and they just lived with it. They were so remote, it took them a day's drive just to get to the DD shop, so I can see why they did the swap. Their remoteness was also their reason for selling Herman. They wanted to get an airplane so they could get somewhere without being on the road for a day or two.
Chris Losey man they must’ve been way out in the sticks. How long ago did they sell it
Don't ever go too near a rotating PTO shaft!
I use oliver and whites to farm
Very nice. Subbed
I feel that the "Direct Horsepower Measure" of this dyno isn't particularly accurate or reliable judging by your results on "Herman". I think the best way would be to use the "Torque" measurement option the gauge talks about. Measure the torque, and then do the math separately to figure out the PTO power. The equation is really easy: HP = Torque x RPM / 5252. You could figure out max power pretty easily by taking a few different measurements. For example, find the max torque a tractor will take at 570 PTO RPM, the max torque it can reach at 540 PTO RPM, and the max torque it will take at 500 RPM. Then do the calculation for all three, and one of those numbers should yield the most horsepower.
Absolutely. I ran one of those old A&W dyno's for years before we bought our new one, and the direct reading wasn't that accurate unless you really paid attention to where you set the bar.
Also, you should be pulling to rated RPM for the Rated power of the engines, which will be a bit lower than the power at PTO Speeds. Does it matter, not really, either is a good test. But to know whether they have what they are supposed to have, you test Rated power like the factory or Nebraska did.
Either way, great video.
horsepower isnt a true measurement of a diesel engine it is the torque that pulls you
Horsepower is an imaginary measurement anyway. Engines only produce torque. Horsepower is calculated from torque. HP= TQ x RPM/5252. So if you have a HP number with the rpm it was at, and you wanna know the TQ, just use the formula.
P.T.O. H.P. is how tractors are measured. Torque twists, it don't pull. Horses pull, hence the term horsepower. Weight over distance and time.
Yes it is. You make up for lack of torque with gearing. It's the tractive effort of the tire pushing along the ground that pulls you.
Horsepower makes noise and torque creates work.
That GM 4-53 sounding strong, that's the problem Detroit don't have much torque
i guess you can upgrade and stuff but they sure do sound good
That torque is up high, like a weed eater or chainsaw. Keep 'em wound up and they'll treat you right.
94 Good call.
My dad has a 1950T cochkshot
The oliver rescin
get yourself a tripod man. cool vid though
I've gotten some equipment since this video was made. I'll make a new one once I get the governor adjusted on the 1950 and try it again.
Dyno l always felt was hard on a motor.
Interesting. The engine doesn't know what is causing the load.
@@ThatOliverGuyChris it never does it's just wide open under load. I understand if you really want or need to know exact hp. However ask the people who blew their tractor up if they would dyno again...
That's just blaming the messenger. Would you never plant again if the engine blew while pulling the planter up a hill?
@@ThatOliverGuyChris I understand your side I was just saying why take unnecessary risk.
i hate to be an armchair quarterback,but seems you need an assistant,and you shouldn't move the camera so much, good video anyway!
I'm working on that. I've gotten a tripod, and I'm looking into getting a Gopro.
pto driveshafts extremely Dangerous usually those plastic tube cover that sits still all the time with a chain This one does not have it
This was made before the plastic type. This one has plastic bearings that will let the steel shield stop if something gets caught on it.
They're only dangerous if you arent paying attention and are being stupid.
That 1950 is obviously junk. You should sell it to me ;)
Lol
I’ll haul it off for free!
Get a cover on that pto shaft. U had me squeezing my ass hole every time you went to the back of the tractors. So unsafe sir
That PTO shaft has a shield. It's not a modern plastic one, but it is the one the dyno came with. It can free wheel on the shaft if something touches it, but I don't do that.
I never noticed that. Don't want ya to think I'm getting at you bud it's just that there's so many horror storys with pto shafts. Keep up the great vids
I appreciate it, better safe than sorry.