great instruction. I've been trying to index my gears recently on a second had bike. I'd never have thought of this as being a possible problem. I'll be making a tool like yours 😀
in an emergency instead of pulling from the deraileur as you said it's better to insert the allen key from your multi-tool in the deraileur screw and use the multi-tool to torque the hanger. that way you don't damage the deraileur
I find it much easier and quicker to keep the pointer removed from the tool and measure the distance from the rim to the tool with a tape-measure. Thereby you don't have to bother with the offset and the pointer doesn't get in the way when you have to bend inwards.
I know. I have the parktool one, a var one and a campagnolo one, but I always work without the pointer. I just find it much faster to measure with a tape than to slide the pointer around.
it is not necessary to jump the pointer over the seat stay when you move the tool as you show, you risk changing the pointer depth when you move it to take the measurements on the front and back of the rim. A better procedure would be to measuring the depth to the rim with the pointer under the chain stay, and than swinging it under the wheel until straight back for your second measurement. For the vertical axis check, you check the distance from the pointer to the rim from the top of the wheel, and than again swing it backwards and take the second measurement at the bottom of the rim. Thus avoiding both the seat stay and the chain stay on both measurements, and the pointer does not have to be swung out of the way and than back.
Excellent video, very informative and real cycling enthusiasts will appreciate this one
That was a very well made video and beautifully explained. Thank you very much.
excellent explanation, thanks for the video & information.
great instruction. I've been trying to index my gears recently on a second had bike. I'd never have thought of this as being a possible problem. I'll be making a tool like yours 😀
You are the best. Thanks for the video
Hi from spain
in an emergency instead of pulling from the deraileur as you said it's better to insert the allen key from your multi-tool in the deraileur screw and use the multi-tool to torque the hanger. that way you don't damage the deraileur
Yes "Prasst" exactly,your on the ball.
Very clear and helpful, thanks!
thank you so much the instructions and diy tools
Great video .... thank you
Great help thank you
Would you mind explaining the purpose of the 'B' adjustment screw? Thanks
I find it much easier and quicker to keep the pointer removed from the tool and measure the distance from the rim to the tool with a tape-measure. Thereby you don't have to bother with the offset and the pointer doesn't get in the way when you have to bend inwards.
+coustellier The tool is fully adjustable so you should have no probs getting around rear stays and adjusting tools length for offset. Cheers
I know. I have the parktool one, a var one and a campagnolo one, but I always work without the pointer. I just find it much faster to measure with a tape than to slide the pointer around.
What if the hanger is taken off and aligned on a flat surface
it is not necessary to jump the pointer over the seat stay when you move the tool as you show, you risk changing the pointer depth when you move it to take the measurements on the front and back of the rim. A better procedure would be to measuring the depth to the rim with the pointer under the chain stay, and than swinging it under the wheel until straight back for your second measurement. For the vertical axis check, you check the distance from the pointer to the rim from the top of the wheel, and than again swing it backwards and take the second measurement at the bottom of the rim. Thus avoiding both the seat stay and the chain stay on both measurements, and the pointer does not have to be swung out of the way and than back.
I cracked my new Canyon frame, clamping stand to the frame like this😞. Seatpost always!
Do not clamp carbon frames...mine is just sitting in the jaws
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