Great info, Thanks Aaron. With the screws you had to drill out... Did you try an old school impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer? I recently got a fancy pair of Japanese "Vessel" brand IMPACTA screwdrivers that you turn while tapping with a hammer which causes them to rotate, I'm keen to try them out on my next headache. And finally I read that if you press some coarse valve grinding paste into the phillips screw head, the paste removes the play and gives the screwdriver extra bite! Try it and let me know
Good stuff. I recently disassembled my entire evo 9 diff for reconditioning. Can you guide me through installing and properly setting the pinion gear? All bearings and shims and collar are being reused. The companion flange just seems waaaay too tight at the factory torque recommendation. Thanks
The drag on the snout after assembly should be only 7-10 inch pounds assembled with the companion flange on. If its more than that smaller shimms may have to be used on assembly. If you go on the Evoscan site they have a downloadable copy of the Evo 7 service manual. Check out page 27b-47 it goes over rear axle assembly. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. I do have the actual evo 9 manual and it calls for 137 +/- 21 ft lb on the companion flange self locking nut. Is it possible to require a different shim after fully disassembling even if I didn’t pull the bearing off of the pinion ? Not sure what could have changed requiring a different setup as the collar and shim shouldn’t crush. Thanks again and your period of JDM flavor is awesome keep it up. To my
@@dinoagelis8370 hi there, yes unfortunately the bearing preload can change even if you put everything together the same as the shims etc tend to deform and flatten out a bit as well as the bearing cage may relax and require slightly less torque to preload the bearing. The drag test in the manual is measuring the assembled bearing preload. A lot of driverrain guys measure the drag on a pinion prior to disassembly to get an idea of where the preload is at on the used parts. If your backlash on your ring gear as well as the pinion depth is all the same as stock you are stuck now swapping out the shims. On the pinion you just keep tightening the pinion nut until you get the desired preload on the bearings. If its not coming close to the stock speck youd nees to swap out the shims for some diffrent ones depending on which way you want to move, less or more torque.
I think they are going to steadily increase in value over time. Good investment overall. As well for what you get money wise, new sports cars are still more expensive. 👍
Good stuff
Hi.
Great video.
Do you happen to know the size of the threads in the rear cover?
Yes. They are 1.25
Great info, Thanks Aaron. With the screws you had to drill out... Did you try an old school impact screwdriver that you hit with a hammer? I recently got a fancy pair of Japanese "Vessel" brand IMPACTA screwdrivers that you turn while tapping with a hammer which causes them to rotate, I'm keen to try them out on my next headache. And finally I read that if you press some coarse valve grinding paste into the phillips screw head, the paste removes the play and gives the screwdriver extra bite! Try it and let me know
Those are all good ideas, i havent tried those 😄
Good stuff. I recently disassembled my entire evo 9 diff for reconditioning. Can you guide me through installing and properly setting the pinion gear? All bearings and shims and collar are being reused. The companion flange just seems waaaay too tight at the factory torque recommendation. Thanks
The drag on the snout after assembly should be only 7-10 inch pounds assembled with the companion flange on. If its more than that smaller shimms may have to be used on assembly. If you go on the Evoscan site they have a downloadable copy of the Evo 7 service manual. Check out page 27b-47 it goes over rear axle assembly. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the reply. I do have the actual evo 9 manual and it calls for 137 +/- 21 ft lb on the companion flange self locking nut. Is it possible to require a different shim after fully disassembling even if I didn’t pull the bearing off of the pinion ?
Not sure what could have changed requiring a different setup as the collar and shim shouldn’t crush.
Thanks again and your period of JDM flavor is awesome keep it up.
To my
@@dinoagelis8370 hi there, yes unfortunately the bearing preload can change even if you put everything together the same as the shims etc tend to deform and flatten out a bit as well as the bearing cage may relax and require slightly less torque to preload the bearing. The drag test in the manual is measuring the assembled bearing preload. A lot of driverrain guys measure the drag on a pinion prior to disassembly to get an idea of where the preload is at on the used parts. If your backlash on your ring gear as well as the pinion depth is all the same as stock you are stuck now swapping out the shims. On the pinion you just keep tightening the pinion nut until you get the desired preload on the bearings. If its not coming close to the stock speck youd nees to swap out the shims for some diffrent ones depending on which way you want to move, less or more torque.
i own this type of car for 10 years now. i dont know if want to sell it or not
I think they are going to steadily increase in value over time. Good investment overall. As well for what you get money wise, new sports cars are still more expensive. 👍
hope your next video is install carbon fibre driveshaft.