Doing the jig your way instead of the adjustable sides is excellent for keeping things simple. Nice video! I'll be making one of these for my architectural models so I can make my own scale lumber.
Yours does exactly as it says on the can. I'm busy making very fine and small windows, door casings, fascia's, trims for dolls houses, shops and intricate model buildings. Very good video and thanks very much for sharing . North East Coast, England.
Good eye! I always wonder is people look to see what logo wear I have on. Sad too see ATOC go. (I’m an International Commissaire, which sometimes gets in the way of woodworking and producing videos.)
@@SkyValleyStudio I love the simplicity of your jig - Bridge city makes larger planes with skids but the reviews are all over the place - do you have an opinion on them?
Honestly, I use this jig far more than my plane with the skids. Bridge City makes some beautiful and very functional tools. Don’t get me wrong! But sometimes simple is better.
Thanks for this vid. I just made one this evening from some scrap 1/4" and 3/4" MDF. Stacked two 1/4" shims on the base for making 1/4" edge banding. Tried a test run on the sled and quickly planed a perfectly uniform strip. Tomorrow I'll rip a bunch more strips and put this sled to good use.
I just came across your Channel and I have subscribed looking into getting into veneer work and inlay work and this is going to be very useful, thank you for sharing.
After watching many of these jigs with all the adjustments for height, I made one with a fixed 1/2" stop at the end instead. I'll put in shims underneath the stock to get the thickness I want. It's good to see that I'm on the right track though your build looks more elegant. Thanks!
It depends in part on how good of a plane you have. A longer plane will do better than a smaller one. Clamp the end to keep it from buckling as it gets thin. I’ve gone to 1/16” by taking fine shavings. Haven’t tried thinner than that.
Hi great stuff. I made something very similar based on a length of 3x3 with bolted on sides and internal rails (like yours effectively). And I also used calibrated spacers (btw plastic is good e.g. lego bricks as wood tends to expand and contract too much for fine tolerance work). The problem I kept on having which caused me to stop using it so much was that the blade of the plane exerts an upwards grab force and tended to pull the workpiece off the base so it would end up planing while floating in mid air under the plane. I added some screw clamps to clamp from the side but this is no good for fine work say less than 1/2". I'd be interested in your thoughts. If I can find a good solution I might start using it again.
When you plane something on a bench there is always a downwards force on the workpiece but not so with this jig once it gets to the point where it begins to stop planing.
I put a stop for the work well before the end so my plane is still “at work” past the end of the workpiece. I’m also taking very fine .001 or less shavings at the end. I use this jig all the time in making my inlay bandings. I’ve also had no issues using wood spacers. The expansion is uniform on the thickness, and very minuscule over a thin 1/8” or less spacer board. The MDF has very little movement. But plastic spacers are an excellent way to go if you’ve got long strips of plexiglass, for example. Good tip! Hope this helps.
I hope you're happy.. Now I feel the need for a plane.. i could really make use of this jig... But I'm not really a plane guy and really confused by all the variations .. I have few hand planes so really none. Might I ask what brand and style you're using there.. Hope it's not a WoodRiver (G)
Hand planing with a good sharp plane is such a pleasure! I’m using a Veritas low angle bevel up jack plane. It’s really quite versatile, and is one of my most used planes. I wish the tote was more comfortable for my feminine hands, but that doesn’t stop me from using it extensively. The bevel up allows me to use blades sharpened at different angles depending on the type of wood I, planing and how I want to use it. A bevel down plane will always cut at the same angle to the surface no matter what angle you put on the blade. Feel free to ask questions here!
If you're lost with planes you can't go wrong with a standard old Stanley 4 or 5 until you learn enough to know which kind you like. Best to get one from an reputable dealer who you trust to sell you one where everything is in working condition so you don't get frustrated trying to set it up. If you can afford it then Veritas or other similar high end planes won't let you down, but it's a lot to spend before you know much about planes. Another option is to get a mini version of a high end plane, but you lose the momentum of the bigger ones which can make them harder to use for some purposes. Don't get confused by the variations...most of them are just equivalent to the standard with some small tweaks to make them better for particular purposes. They are worth it if you need them, but you can also use a standard plane to do the same thing. Some variations are worth it, and some aren't but you won't know until you use a standard plane to do it enough to get frustrated, and even then the frustration level and frequency of use has to justify the price, space, and addition of another tool to keep sharp/etc.
@@RichardBuckman Richard, thank you for thoughtful, well thought out reply. I couldn't afford it but I did get the Veritas Sky Valley describes above.. Had to save and they were out of stock for forever but here was my thought process. I wanted to know once and for all is it the plane that causes me problems or the user. I knew if got that plane and still couldn't dial one in it was me. It's taken a little practice but I am getting results and feel as if I'm getting better and more comfortable using.. And I thought if I can crack the code it would have multiple uses. Something I've scoffed at forever.. Ahem, I've now made a small shooting board for edges and 45s and as you'd guess I feel quality of work has ratcheted up a little.. also had little piece of twisted quilted maple , I was able to knock down the high spots pretty quick. I was really surprised how fast I brought that piece closer to flat more manageable before moving on with it. Still don't have plane skid however.. And even worse I'm pretty happy with this plane and now want to know more about other varieties.. And another oddball thing I thought.. I was shaving, oak, hard maple, walnut edges like a champ(for me).. grabbed a piece of blood wood and the results were horrific Even dulled my blade.. Quick google search indicated interlocking grain might be the cause? Or it's so hard need a different angle idk.. still loads and loads to learn.
I can’t believe this took TWO YEARS to show up on my notifications! By now I’m sure you’ve mastered your plane, and the interlocking grain issues. Part of the reason I got the bevel up plane was so I could use different angles on the blade on a single plane. I have three different angles from 25-50 degrees, and a toothed blade for goofing down surfaces quickly. Saving for a quality tool is sometimes much better than trying to learn on a substandard tool. The learning curve is much easier with quality tools that set up easily.
This may be a stupid question, but... can't you just double-sided tape the piece to another piece of stock you know to be flat and run it through said thicknesser? Don't misunderstand me: I have a chute board and a number of flattening jigs, so i get the whole 10 ways to skin a cat thing, but if you're having to manufacture precision-thickness inserts ANYWAY to MAKE the jig... I have a 2x6 (made up of laminated strips of MDF and planed/jointed to 90/90/90 as flat as I can get it specifically for the purpose. One of the blokes I used to work with actually had a long billet of aluminum he'd milled that worked the same way. I even saw one guy who had a long piece of thick glass - I think he'd said it was part of the siding of a glass bartop - the he used (though I totally admit: I wouldn't have the stones to risk the Sheelix on either of the latter two).
Z, this is a good point. I suppose you could use double sided tape. Personally, I enjoy using a hand plane much more than using an electric thickness planer, which never gets quite as good a result for me as my hand plane. Often I'll take an additional pass with the hand plane to materials coming off the thickness planer just for that reason. Or just do it all with the hand plane. No noise, no dust chips, fun making curls, and a good workout!
![鉋で木材の厚さを均一にするための治具／Thicknessing jig for a hand plane [subtitles available]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IgJuwYr9aCw/mqdefault.jpg)
Doing the jig your way instead of the adjustable sides is excellent for keeping things simple. Nice video! I'll be making one of these for my architectural models so I can make my own scale lumber.
I bet your architectural models will look great! I think you will be pleased.
Great jig build, 02:13 always handy having an extra hand ✋
Nice jig!
Thanks. One of my most used jigs!
Yours does exactly as it says on the can. I'm busy making very fine and small windows, door casings, fascia's, trims for dolls houses, shops and intricate model buildings. Very good video and thanks very much for sharing . North East Coast, England.
Sounds very detailed! Hope this helps. Feel free to post some of your work here.
Obviously two of the right passions : wood working and cycling. Great couple. BTW nice jig.
Good eye! I always wonder is people look to see what logo wear I have on. Sad too see ATOC go. (I’m an International Commissaire, which sometimes gets in the way of woodworking and producing videos.)
This is great! You just saved me $70 as I was about to order the Bridge City Tool miniplane with depth skids :)
I have that plane, too, but it’s not as versatile as the plane skid. It has its uses and it’s a beautiful toy, but doesn’t get nearly as much use.
@@SkyValleyStudio I love the simplicity of your jig - Bridge city makes larger planes with skids but the reviews are all over the place - do you have an opinion on them?
Honestly, I use this jig far more than my plane with the skids. Bridge City makes some beautiful and very functional tools. Don’t get me wrong! But sometimes simple is better.
great work. this is the most simple jig I've seen built. thanks
Thanks! Sometimes simple is best!
I really like your version of the skid!
Thank you for the video! It was very helpful. I'm going to make a jig to make 7mm thick stock.
Great! Keep in mind, shims of varying thicknesses (or several the same thickness stacked) can make the jig even more versatile.
Thanks for this vid. I just made one this evening from some scrap 1/4" and 3/4" MDF. Stacked two 1/4" shims on the base for making 1/4" edge banding. Tried a test run on the sled and quickly planed a perfectly uniform strip. Tomorrow I'll rip a bunch more strips and put this sled to good use.
Sometimes simple is better!
This just popped up in my recommendations. This is a great idea that I may use for future projects. Thanks for sharing. All the best to you.
It was a game changer for making inlay bandings. Let me know how it works for you!
@@SkyValleyStudio. Will do. Thanks so much.
I just came across your Channel and I have subscribed looking into getting into veneer work and inlay work and this is going to be very useful, thank you for sharing.
Several inlay videos on our channel, but nothing on veneer work. I don’t have a press.
Thank you. Very inspiring! Many greetings from Norway.
Welcome to our channel! I hope you find more inspiration here!
I'll be building a skid similar to this for very thin pieces (3/32" to about 1/4"). Nice to see yours working so well. Thanks for post this!
you’re welcome! I hope yours is successful, too!
Nice design. I like the shim method you use. Seems a bit sturdier than adjustable sides.
Thanks for the feedback!
After watching many of these jigs with all the adjustments for height, I made one with a fixed 1/2" stop at the end instead. I'll put in shims underneath the stock to get the thickness I want. It's good to see that I'm on the right track though your build looks more elegant. Thanks!
sometimes the simplest solution is the best! Thanks for watching and commenting!
I am new to veneering and I was wondering how far down you can go with the skid.
It depends in part on how good of a plane you have. A longer plane will do better than a smaller one. Clamp the end to keep it from buckling as it gets thin. I’ve gone to 1/16” by taking fine shavings. Haven’t tried thinner than that.
Can larger stock be thicknesses in the same way eg stock for sash windows ? Thanks.
I do t see why it couldn’t. It’s restricted only by the width of the plane.
Hi great stuff. I made something very similar based on a length of 3x3 with bolted on sides and internal rails (like yours effectively). And I also used calibrated spacers (btw plastic is good e.g. lego bricks as wood tends to expand and contract too much for fine tolerance work). The problem I kept on having which caused me to stop using it so much was that the blade of the plane exerts an upwards grab force and tended to pull the workpiece off the base so it would end up planing while floating in mid air under the plane. I added some screw clamps to clamp from the side but this is no good for fine work say less than 1/2". I'd be interested in your thoughts. If I can find a good solution I might start using it again.
When you plane something on a bench there is always a downwards force on the workpiece but not so with this jig once it gets to the point where it begins to stop planing.
I put a stop for the work well before the end so my plane is still “at work” past the end of the workpiece. I’m also taking very fine .001 or less shavings at the end. I use this jig all the time in making my inlay bandings.
I’ve also had no issues using wood spacers. The expansion is uniform on the thickness, and very minuscule over a thin 1/8” or less spacer board. The MDF has very little movement. But plastic spacers are an excellent way to go if you’ve got long strips of plexiglass, for example. Good tip!
Hope this helps.
I hope you're happy.. Now I feel the need for a plane.. i could really make use of this jig... But I'm not really a plane guy and really confused by all the variations .. I have few hand planes so really none. Might I ask what brand and style you're using there.. Hope it's not a WoodRiver (G)
Hand planing with a good sharp plane is such a pleasure! I’m using a Veritas low angle bevel up jack plane. It’s really quite versatile, and is one of my most used planes. I wish the tote was more comfortable for my feminine hands, but that doesn’t stop me from using it extensively.
The bevel up allows me to use blades sharpened at different angles depending on the type of wood I, planing and how I want to use it. A bevel down plane will always cut at the same angle to the surface no matter what angle you put on the blade.
Feel free to ask questions here!
If you're lost with planes you can't go wrong with a standard old Stanley 4 or 5 until you learn enough to know which kind you like. Best to get one from an reputable dealer who you trust to sell you one where everything is in working condition so you don't get frustrated trying to set it up. If you can afford it then Veritas or other similar high end planes won't let you down, but it's a lot to spend before you know much about planes. Another option is to get a mini version of a high end plane, but you lose the momentum of the bigger ones which can make them harder to use for some purposes. Don't get confused by the variations...most of them are just equivalent to the standard with some small tweaks to make them better for particular purposes. They are worth it if you need them, but you can also use a standard plane to do the same thing. Some variations are worth it, and some aren't but you won't know until you use a standard plane to do it enough to get frustrated, and even then the frustration level and frequency of use has to justify the price, space, and addition of another tool to keep sharp/etc.
@@RichardBuckman Richard, thank you for thoughtful, well thought out reply. I couldn't afford it but I did get the Veritas Sky Valley describes above.. Had to save and they were out of stock for forever but here was my thought process. I wanted to know once and for all is it the plane that causes me problems or the user. I knew if got that plane and still couldn't dial one in it was me. It's taken a little practice but I am getting results and feel as if I'm getting better and more comfortable using.. And I thought if I can crack the code it would have multiple uses.
Something I've scoffed at forever.. Ahem, I've now made a small shooting board for edges and 45s and as you'd guess I feel quality of work has ratcheted up a little.. also had little piece of twisted quilted maple , I was able to knock down the high spots pretty quick. I was really surprised how fast I brought that piece closer to flat more manageable before moving on with it.
Still don't have plane skid however.. And even worse I'm pretty happy with this plane and now want to know more about other varieties..
And another oddball thing I thought.. I was shaving, oak, hard maple, walnut edges like a champ(for me).. grabbed a piece of blood wood and the results were horrific Even dulled my blade.. Quick google search indicated interlocking grain might be the cause? Or it's so hard need a different angle idk.. still loads and loads to learn.
Comment about wood river- what’s wrong with that brand of plane? Thanks
I can’t believe this took TWO YEARS to show up on my notifications! By now I’m sure you’ve mastered your plane, and the interlocking grain issues. Part of the reason I got the bevel up plane was so I could use different angles on the blade on a single plane. I have three different angles from 25-50 degrees, and a toothed blade for goofing down surfaces quickly.
Saving for a quality tool is sometimes much better than trying to learn on a substandard tool. The learning curve is much easier with quality tools that set up easily.
muito fixe
Que bom que você conseguiu extrair algo sem tradução!
What plane do you use with this jig?
I made this jig for my Veritas bevel up jack plane. The bevel up plane allows differing angles of sharpening the blade for different types of grain.
This may be a stupid question, but... can't you just double-sided tape the piece to another piece of stock you know to be flat and run it through said thicknesser? Don't misunderstand me: I have a chute board and a number of flattening jigs, so i get the whole 10 ways to skin a cat thing, but if you're having to manufacture precision-thickness inserts ANYWAY to MAKE the jig...
I have a 2x6 (made up of laminated strips of MDF and planed/jointed to 90/90/90 as flat as I can get it specifically for the purpose. One of the blokes I used to work with actually had a long billet of aluminum he'd milled that worked the same way. I even saw one guy who had a long piece of thick glass - I think he'd said it was part of the siding of a glass bartop - the he used (though I totally admit: I wouldn't have the stones to risk the Sheelix on either of the latter two).
Z, this is a good point. I suppose you could use double sided tape.
Personally, I enjoy using a hand plane much more than using an electric thickness planer, which never gets quite as good a result for me as my hand plane. Often I'll take an additional pass with the hand plane to materials coming off the thickness planer just for that reason. Or just do it all with the hand plane. No noise, no dust chips, fun making curls, and a good workout!
@2:12 let me help you hold that tiny board
LOL. Yeah. That extra helping hand is pretty funny. Comes in “handy” once in awhile.
👍
Welcome, Roy! And thanks for the thumbs up!
a nailgun? Really??
Just a quick pin nail hold. Glue and clamps are fine too.