Paul, the lazy portion of my brain told me that planing away 5/8th inch would be some serious work, but I made one of these contraptions and sure enough the lazy portion of my brain was correct. It is some serious work. I have about 12 chairs to work on over the next year give or take so what I might do for expedience is to remove the bulk of it with the band saw then clean it up with the tapering jig. A few things I found useful..round and sand off the edges of the sides on the inside if you're fond of your knuckles. I also cut some various sized insert stops and to clamp another stop on the back side to keep the work piece from jumping around inside the jig. As for the plane digging in to the rails? That doesn't happen. The blade isn't as wide as the base of the plane. It rides along freely and by the way, the band saw did make this much easier. I know you dislike machines Paul, but busted knuckles are just not as fun as advertised.
What a great way to make a tapered leg. I have a sofa table build coming up and the legs have a taper to them. If time permits I'm definitely going to make this jig to taper the legs. As always Thank you very much for the information and taking the time to show us this jig.
Brilliant! Nice and simple, and adaptable, too. I am envisioning using this design with straight runners as well for making duplicate parts. Thank you for sharing
As always a simple and elegant solution. Thank you. I'd love to see a more advanced one with an adjustment screw and hinge to allow the taper of the rails to be adjusted. One possible issue with this design though. I may have missed it but you might want to make it clear that the two screws that hold the rails down to the base need to be counter sunk to a level below which the blade will ever reach. The edge of the plane mouth will prevent the rails from being skimmed down indefinitely but the screw needs to be below the maximum depth the blade will be protruding from the sole.
Paul i just got done watching a video by Ty Moser on this same project and watching was painful. looked like he really did not care at all judging by his body language. i dont get that at all when i watch your videos. thanks so much for caring and giving of your knowledge. he has much to learn seems. and so do i. i watch all your videos and love them all. thanks so much. :)
Thanks for sharing. I think your method works better than table saw & sanding. It would be interesting to create a cabriole leg with a similar jig and a drawknife
Very nice. Once you make (as needed) differently tapered "runners", you can mark them (with actual taper in inch-per-foot or with project names) and build a collection to save with the jig. For four-sided tapers there could be a "first pass" and a "second pass" pair of runners for a given taper. Would there be any point in making a special blade for the plane which was relieved at the sides so it wouldn't cut into the runners? (This might be an issue if you were doing a large number of identical copies of a project - say for a set of 12 dining chairs. That way the last ones would be the same size as the first ones.) EDIT: Answering my own question, after thinking it over: No; because the blade is not the full width of the plane so there will always be some uncut surface at the outer edges of the runners for the plane to ride on.
Paul, I enjoyed watching the tapering jig video but one thing you said at the beginning had me confused. You said you can use the jig to make a two sided taper or a four sided taper. Two sided I understand, but a four sided taper with the jig requires the angle of the jig to be halved. In other words, the two tapered pieces need to have two additional tapers for the plane to ride on to get the taper on the opposite side of the leg.
That's a sturdy no-fail jig for planing legs to a single taper. But the jig could be made adjustable by placing a pivot pin through the support rails at one end, and then fastening the other ens of the rails at at any desired taper. A vertical graduated index line at 12 or 24 inches distance from the pivot pin could be scribed to aid in setting the taper.
Considering how easy it is to make the runners and install them, maybe just making differently-tapered runners for each new project would be sturdier (not risk bending in the middle under pressure from the plane). This would also aid in repeatability, if you came back to make a second set of legs for another copy of some particular project.
Aaaah! You've shown me how to make tapered, slender table legs. What I make now are STURDY - yes, but not particularly eye catching (sounds like my own legs, actually ;-)
I might be wrong. I know this will work for tapering two sides. But when you want to taper all four side of the leg, don't you have to wedge or support the previously cut face to have the leg at the correct height between the rails to taper the remaining two surfaces identically.?
thank you very much for so many informational videos. I know this has nothing to do with this video but earlier I watched a few of your videos on sharpening hand saws. I sharpened a crosscut disston I picked up at a flea market and counted 29 strokes to go through a 2x4. is this decent? my new cheap husky hand saw I bought to get by does the same cut on the same board in 40 strokes. so I feel I'm sharpening the disston to perform better than the new saw but am wondering how I stand next to a professionally sharpened antique saw
Very nice! I'm curious your thoughts on using this for non tapered items. If you used parallel runners in the carriage (instead of tapered) you could use that for making several pieces that simple need to be the same dimensions. Being new to this when using a plane on wood in the vice I struggle at replicating dimensions across multiple items - such as a leg or apron or whatnot.
Enjoy all you videos. Great stuff. I am getting back to woodworking for retirement. Just one comment on the jig. The plane of the top and foot portion of the leg will no longer perpendicular to the center line of the leg. What is best way to square them up? Maybe use two rails, a shallow taper for first two adjacent sides and a steeper one for the next two. Thanks
Thanks. Brilliant tip, again. One question though: Do you need to make sure the tapered rails can not get caught by the blade, or perhaps it does not matter as they would be planed down to the set depth anyway? I think I have watched every single video of this channel, you make woodworking look so easy. Started to acquire some tools and practising sharpening of them. Found some excellent old frame-saw rip blades from "Sandviken". I'm hoping to be able to start making a workbench soon . Difficult to get hold on a Record type vise here in Sweden though.
Hi Paul love the videos and ither peoples atempts at duplicating your lessons. i myself am just bigining and loving the knife wall tip. my questuon is, how would you know when to use the smoothing plane or the stanly no.5 ? i cant think how is prefer the smaller plane
Hi Paul, I love trying everything you show us but I have a big problem. Every time I plane a piece of wood to get is flat and smooth, the planed surface always slopes to the right instead of being flat. I have 3x no 4 planes all bought from car boots but I've renovated and sharpened them as per your videos. (I get a lot of pleasure from taking very fine shavings so its always set finely) Also it always reaches my depth of cut on the end of the length of wood well before the start. I've tried taking all the downward pressure off the plane but there is no way I can completely flatten and square up all 4 sides. Can you suggest anything I could try to stop this problem? I'm sure I'm not alone with this problem and I'm sure that a video showing the correct use of a plane would be appreciated by many people. Thank you for your time, and your extremely good videos.
I have (had) the same issue, Glyn, although I'm getting better over time and is now more or less sorted. I'm guessing you are right handed. It could be the blade isn't square to the sole of the plane but it's more likely you are ever so slightly rolling the plane clockwise as you push. To correct it, try placing the thumb and forefinger of your left hand at the front of the plane as you push it. Thumb on top, finger underneath on the sole. Bring the plane towards the left so that it is running off center of the wood and overhanging the high side. You should be taking only partial width shavings to start with. As you plane make a conscious effort to put the weight on the left hand side of the plane (as you view it from behind.) I know how frustrating it is to have this problem, but don't give up. With practice you will crack it.
Thank's Danny, I think you are right. I've changed my grip on the plane and let it do the work, just pushing it and not putting downward force on it so as not to influence it, it is working although I sometimes forget and hold it like I used to but like you say, in time I should perfect the correct stance. Thank you for taking the time to help.
Thanks, Paul. This jig clearly works perfectly when one wishes to taper two adjacent faces of a board. What if I need to taper all four faces of the board? Is there a clever way to do that?
that´s not gonna work Adam, instead you´ll need a taper strip, note that when you plane a face oposite to one that has already done you will need a diferent angle (double as initial one) as the leg then is resting on an already taper face. I would make the guides with the double angle and use a small supplement put underneath at end of the guides.
Paul, I'm betting you have a brace and bit? It was what I used before battery or electric power. LOL!1 My dad wouldn't let me. He said "You will make smaller mistakes with Hand tools." My rehabbed planes are getting there. Still need practice with sharpening and it's subtleties.
I take it when using this jig for tapering all four faces you use two sets of rails? One to set the taper on two adjoining faces and another to compensate for that taper when finishing the other faces.
+Daniel Lukes - I think one will need 1/2 of the angle for the 2nd side of each leg, if tapering all 4 sides. Maybe one way would be to make the inserts at the half-angle, taper 2 sides then for the last two, lever up the tall end of the inserts to effectively double the angle. The 2nd two faces need to compensate for the 1st two tapers already on the leg. I think by making the insert anges adjustable and the end stop movable this could be a very versatile jig. Much thanks go to Mr. Sellers. - Eddy
This is an issue. The ends will be the same as Daniel Lukes says here but the amount of wood taken off the sides opposing the original taper will be half. MIght be funny looking legs. Best to stick to two side taper with this jig.
Hi Paul, at the age of 63 I'm just getting an interest again in woodworking. I am really enjoying your videos. I want to taper some wider legs for a table ( 4x4). As this is wider than the plane is there any way to assist or will I just have to mark it and plane freehand.
Greetings... Planes have smaller blades sitting in a mouth. The edges are solid and will glide. Only Rabetted planes have a blade, that is cutting the Whole Width.
I think that there is an issue here where Paul stated that you could use a No. 4 too, just as well as a No 4 1/2, in the same jig, even with the 4 1/2 having a total width that is less than the distance between the walls of the jig. With the smaller plane it could happen that, say, the left side is riding right up against the left wall of the jig, on the "solid edge" as you have called it (the area between the outer edge of the blade and the outer edge of the sole), with the right edge of the sole dipping into a previously planed-down strip along the right vertical guide rail.
It keeps the plane centered and prevents lateral movement that could result in the material moving or the plane moving and thereby it results in unnecessary damage.
ok, so, I see that the inner parts of the jig are made of 3/4" stock, the parts that are tapered. Doesn't the blade hit these, since the plane has only 1/4" clearance with the outer frame, and the blade extends almost all the way across the plane? It seems, the blade will cut a shaving of the tapered inner runner! How can the jig work when it is cutting the most crucial part of the jig?
If they do, which they are likely to, the blade just takes it down to the required depth and leaves a shallow rebate on each side. Once it bottoms out on the two sides of the plane it no longer cuts the pine and the two sides become the registration face so when you insert the wood to be planed it comes out perfect.
well, really? It seems however much the blade is sticking out, the leg will be that much smaller. Would it be better to make it custom-fitted to a plane, and make the guide tapers thin enough to miss the blade as it slides down? I will try it that way, and see how it turns out....
only a risk when you are very close to final size. THen you just take care to run your plane in the center of the jig, or skew your plane in the jig so the front left corner and right rear corner are rubbing against the jig side.
No, not really, as the side pieces are narrower than the distance between the sides of the plane and the cutting edge of the iron so the plane sole rides the carriers and they are never reduced at all.
It would seem like using a narrower plane, like the #4, you could risk planing some of the jig off if you don't drive it straight down the center. Great jig though. Thanks Paul!
Very nice. Once you make (as needed) differently tapered "runners", you can mark them (with actual taper in inch-per-foot or with project names) and build a collection to save with the jig. For four-sided tapers there could be a "first pass" and a "second pass" pair of runners for a given taper. Would there be any point in making a special blade for the plane which was relieved at the sides so it wouldn't cut into the runners? (This might be an issue if you were doing a large number of identical copies of a project - say for a set of 12 dining chairs. That way the last ones would be the same size as the first ones.) EDIT: Answering my own question, after thinking it over: No; because the blade is not the full width of the plane so there will always be some uncut surface at the outer edges of the runners for the plane to ride on.
![[TH] VALORANT Champions Seoul - Semi-Final - SEN vs TH](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IewhVY9cAmQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Paul, the lazy portion of my brain told me that planing away 5/8th inch would be some serious work, but I made one of these contraptions and sure enough the lazy portion of my brain was correct. It is some serious work.
I have about 12 chairs to work on over the next year give or take so what I might do for expedience is to remove the bulk of it with the band saw then clean it up with the tapering jig.
A few things I found useful..round and sand off the edges of the sides on the inside if you're fond of your knuckles. I also cut some various sized insert stops and to clamp another stop on the back side to keep the work piece from jumping around inside the jig.
As for the plane digging in to the rails? That doesn't happen. The blade isn't as wide as the base of the plane. It rides along freely and by the way, the band saw did make this much easier.
I know you dislike machines Paul, but busted knuckles are just not as fun as advertised.
That was just lovely to watch! Simply genius! Thanks.
A pleasure to watch as always. Thanks Paul.
What a great way to make a tapered leg. I have a sofa table build coming up and the legs have a taper to them. If time permits I'm definitely going to make this jig to taper the legs. As always Thank you very much for the information and taking the time to show us this jig.
Your work is always straight forward, brilliant and inspiring. Thanks for sharing
Excellent an effective solution at minimal cost, love it.
Great idea. Easy to make and easy to use! Thanks for sharing Paul.
Brilliant! Nice and simple, and adaptable, too. I am envisioning using this design with straight runners as well for making duplicate parts. Thank you for sharing
Good video Paul... I always walk away with good information after watching. Thank you for sharing!
Another great tutorial! This is also a great way to make a thicknessing jig for smaller parts
oh wow, this is excellent, plus, thinking about it, could even convert that into a thicknesser!
As always a simple and elegant solution. Thank you. I'd love to see a more advanced one with an adjustment screw and hinge to allow the taper of the rails to be adjusted. One possible issue with this design though. I may have missed it but you might want to make it clear that the two screws that hold the rails down to the base need to be counter sunk to a level below which the blade will ever reach. The edge of the plane mouth will prevent the rails from being skimmed down indefinitely but the screw needs to be below the maximum depth the blade will be protruding from the sole.
omg one of my favorite videos up until now! Great idea.
love your videos and this one had perfect timing as I'm about to build a tapering jig this weekend. thanks
Another fantastic idea :) Thanks Paul I have just ordered your new book...can't wait to read it ;)
That is a nice jig. Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant Paul, thank you for sharing it.
Thanks Paul, going to give this a try. Never got the adjustable taper jig for the table saw working right.
Very nice jig, thanks for sharing Paul.
Great idea! Thank you. I also noticed that when you were ripping the guides, your off hand was both steadying the upper ends and prying them apart.
I didn't notice that but that seems like a good idea. Thank you for pointing that out.
Very good! I. too, wonder about the plane cutting into the guides.
Thanks. When I first saw your jig, I thought, "Cool", but how do you do... Then you show us. Obvious, and simple, thanks.
Thanks for another great video.
Hi there from Portugal,
Nice Jig :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Paul i just got done watching a video by Ty Moser on this same project and watching was painful. looked like he really did not care at all judging by his body language. i dont get that at all when i watch your videos. thanks so much for caring and giving of your knowledge. he has much to learn seems. and so do i. i watch all your videos and love them all. thanks so much. :)
simple and brilliant!
that is awesome paul thanks so much
Thanks for sharing. I think your method works better than table saw & sanding.
It would be interesting to create a cabriole leg with a similar jig and a drawknife
thank you Paul
Great tip ! Thanks
Thank you very much! Low bow to you from me.
Simple and useful
Thank you ) Very useful
good idea,thank you
thanks 👌
Very nice. Once you make (as needed) differently tapered "runners", you can mark them (with actual taper in inch-per-foot or with project names) and build a collection to save with the jig. For four-sided tapers there could be a "first pass" and a "second pass" pair of runners for a given taper.
Would there be any point in making a special blade for the plane which was relieved at the sides so it wouldn't cut into the runners? (This might be an issue if you were doing a large number of identical copies of a project - say for a set of 12 dining chairs. That way the last ones would be the same size as the first ones.)
EDIT: Answering my own question, after thinking it over: No; because the blade is not the full width of the plane so there will always be some uncut surface at the outer edges of the runners for the plane to ride on.
Paul, I enjoyed watching the tapering jig video but one thing you said at the beginning had me confused. You said you can use the jig to make a two sided taper or a four sided taper. Two sided I understand, but a four sided taper with the jig requires the angle of the jig to be halved. In other words, the two tapered pieces need to have two additional tapers for the plane to ride on to get the taper on the opposite side of the leg.
That's a sturdy no-fail jig for planing legs to a single taper. But the jig could be made adjustable by placing a pivot pin through the support rails at one end, and then fastening the other ens of the rails at at any desired taper. A vertical graduated index line at 12 or 24 inches distance from the pivot pin could be scribed to aid in setting the taper.
Considering how easy it is to make the runners and install them, maybe just making differently-tapered runners for each new project would be sturdier (not risk bending in the middle under pressure from the plane). This would also aid in repeatability, if you came back to make a second set of legs for another copy of some particular project.
Peter W. Meek Certainly that's so. But here, I already have too many single-purpose jigs hanging around.
Aaaah! You've shown me how to make tapered, slender table legs. What I make now are STURDY - yes, but not particularly eye catching (sounds like my own legs, actually ;-)
I might be wrong. I know this will work for tapering two sides. But when you want to taper all four side of the leg, don't you have to wedge or support the previously cut face to have the leg at the correct height between the rails to taper the remaining two surfaces identically.?
Obrigado Professor!
So much to learn, so little time.
thank you very much for so many informational videos. I know this has nothing to do with this video but earlier I watched a few of your videos on sharpening hand saws. I sharpened a crosscut disston I picked up at a flea market and counted 29 strokes to go through a 2x4. is this decent? my new cheap husky hand saw I bought to get by does the same cut on the same board in 40 strokes. so I feel I'm sharpening the disston to perform better than the new saw but am wondering how I stand next to a professionally sharpened antique saw
Very nice! I'm curious your thoughts on using this for non tapered items. If you used parallel runners in the carriage (instead of tapered) you could use that for making several pieces that simple need to be the same dimensions. Being new to this when using a plane on wood in the vice I struggle at replicating dimensions across multiple items - such as a leg or apron or whatnot.
What a great idea!
There is a video of how to make a thickness jig such as you are describing available free on the woodworkingmastersclasses site
Thanks! I'll hafta look it up!
I wish I could get my plane blades as sharp as Paul get's his.
If you put the screw for the taper guides in from the bottom, you could reuse indefinitely.
TY Paul
Enjoy all you videos. Great stuff. I am getting back to woodworking for retirement.
Just one comment on the jig. The plane of the top and foot portion of the leg will no longer perpendicular to the center line of the leg. What is best way to square them up?
Maybe use two rails, a shallow taper for first two adjacent sides and a steeper one for the next two.
Thanks
You are best!
Why would you need to plain four sides? Seems silly to build a second jig rather than just re-cut the ends to keep them even. Am I missing something?
Thanks. Brilliant tip, again. One question though: Do you need to make sure the tapered rails can not get caught by the blade, or perhaps it does not matter as they would be planed down to the set depth anyway?
I think I have watched every single video of this channel, you make woodworking look so easy. Started to acquire some tools and practising sharpening of them. Found some excellent old frame-saw rip blades from "Sandviken". I'm hoping to be able to start making a workbench soon . Difficult to get hold on a Record type vise here in Sweden though.
I had the same thought. Surely swapping out planes will change the reach of some of the irons.
I may have missed something, but, I thought you only shaped two sides... what about a four sided tapered leg?
Hi Paul love the videos and ither peoples atempts at duplicating your lessons. i myself am just bigining and loving the knife wall tip. my questuon is, how would you know when to use the smoothing plane or the stanly no.5 ? i cant think how is prefer the smaller plane
Why doesn't the plane cut the 'side pieces' please Paul?
I did like your 'straightening' the cut with the saw when it wandered off line :-) Neat.
Hi Paul, I love trying everything you show us but I have a big problem.
Every time I plane a piece of wood to get is flat and smooth, the planed surface always slopes to the right instead of being flat.
I have 3x no 4 planes all bought from car boots but I've renovated and sharpened them as per your videos. (I get a lot of pleasure from taking very fine shavings so its always set finely) Also it always reaches my depth of cut on the end of the length of wood well before the start. I've tried taking all the downward pressure off the plane but there is no way I can completely flatten and square up all 4 sides. Can you suggest anything I could try to stop this problem? I'm sure I'm not alone with this problem and I'm sure that a video showing the correct use of a plane would be appreciated by many people.
Thank you for your time, and your extremely good videos.
I have (had) the same issue, Glyn, although I'm getting better over time and is now more or less sorted. I'm guessing you are right handed. It could be the blade isn't square to the sole of the plane but it's more likely you are ever so slightly rolling the plane clockwise as you push. To correct it, try placing the thumb and forefinger of your left hand at the front of the plane as you push it. Thumb on top, finger underneath on the sole. Bring the plane towards the left so that it is running off center of the wood and overhanging the high side. You should be taking only partial width shavings to start with. As you plane make a conscious effort to put the weight on the left hand side of the plane (as you view it from behind.) I know how frustrating it is to have this problem, but don't give up. With practice you will crack it.
Thank's Danny, I think you are right. I've changed my grip on the plane and let it do the work, just pushing it and not putting downward force on it so as not to influence it, it is working although I sometimes forget and hold it like I used to but like you say, in time I should perfect the correct stance.
Thank you for taking the time to help.
You are very welcome. Good luck on your journey towards mastery.
Good thanks but
How to make a thickness jig?
Thanks, Paul. This jig clearly works perfectly when one wishes to taper two adjacent faces of a board. What if I need to taper all four faces of the board? Is there a clever way to do that?
Greetings... How about two jigs: One for the two first sides(Planar to taper) and then one for the two "Smaller" sides(Taper to taper).
Drop a strip half inch thick on top of your guides may be. That would be how I would do it then gives you half inch on the other side to taper down.
that´s not gonna work Adam, instead you´ll need a taper strip, note that when you plane a face oposite to one that has already done you will need a diferent angle (double as initial one) as the leg then is resting on an already taper face. I would make the guides with the double angle and use a small supplement put underneath at end of the guides.
+roma1530 yes when I thought about it more your right. You need two sets of guides
Paul,
I'm betting you have a brace and bit? It was what I used before battery or electric power. LOL!1 My dad wouldn't let me. He said "You will make smaller mistakes with Hand tools." My rehabbed planes are getting there. Still need practice with sharpening and it's subtleties.
Is it possible to make this jig like adjustable for any kind of size of the legs?
I take it when using this jig for tapering all four faces you use two sets of rails? One to set the taper on two adjoining faces and another to compensate for that taper when finishing the other faces.
I was wondering about this too. How to make the taper on the opposite side when one taper is made.
+cricce it shouldn't make a difference if you're happy to square up the ends when you're done
+Daniel Lukes - I think one will need 1/2 of the angle for the 2nd side of each leg, if tapering all 4 sides. Maybe one way would be to make the inserts at the half-angle, taper 2 sides then for the last two, lever up the tall end of the inserts to effectively double the angle. The 2nd two faces need to compensate for the 1st two tapers already on the leg.
I think by making the insert anges adjustable and the end stop movable this could be a very versatile jig. Much thanks go to Mr. Sellers.
- Eddy
This is an issue. The ends will be the same as Daniel Lukes says here but the amount of wood taken off the sides opposing the original taper will be half. MIght be funny looking legs. Best to stick to two side taper with this jig.
Why the inner lines of wood have different height at the start and end?
it's like a huge peg box...
is a drill your only power tool?
Hi Paul, at the age of 63 I'm just getting an interest again in woodworking. I am really enjoying your videos. I want to taper some wider legs for a table ( 4x4). As this is wider than the plane is there any way to assist or will I just have to mark it and plane freehand.
If this was me, I'd saw to rough size and then just use plane for smoothing.
Hi Paul,
Doe this leave a flat edge at the top of the leg to attach a rail to if I wanted to make a table?
Nice video as always.
Regards,
Bill.
All you would have to do is make sure that the top part of the leg isn't in the taper jig when you design them.
.
considering that the blade of a plane extends to the edge of the plane isn't it also going to cut the guide rails down?
Greetings... Planes have smaller blades sitting in a mouth. The edges are solid and will glide. Only Rabetted planes have a blade, that is cutting the Whole Width.
+Jakob Hovman thank you, obviously I don't know all that much about woodworking (more of a metal worker myself)
Most welcome...
I think that there is an issue here where Paul stated that you could use a No. 4 too, just as well as a No 4 1/2, in the same jig, even with the 4 1/2 having a total width that is less than the distance between the walls of the jig. With the smaller plane it could happen that, say, the left side is riding right up against the left wall of the jig, on the "solid edge" as you have called it (the area between the outer edge of the blade and the outer edge of the sole), with the right edge of the sole dipping into a previously planed-down strip along the right vertical guide rail.
Why do you need the outer walls, can you leave them off?
It keeps the plane centered and prevents lateral movement that could result in the material moving or the plane moving and thereby it results in unnecessary damage.
given that the jig is already square .. right ?
I want to make tapered cylindrical legs. After making a tapered leg can you use a plane to make it cylindrical?
consider a treadle lathe
ok, so, I see that the inner parts of the jig are made of 3/4" stock, the parts that are tapered. Doesn't the blade hit these, since the plane has only 1/4" clearance with the outer frame, and the blade extends almost all the way across the plane? It seems, the blade will cut a shaving of the tapered inner runner! How can the jig work when it is cutting the most crucial part of the jig?
If they do, which they are likely to, the blade just takes it down to the required depth and leaves a shallow rebate on each side. Once it bottoms out on the two sides of the plane it no longer cuts the pine and the two sides become the registration face so when you insert the wood to be planed it comes out perfect.
well, really? It seems however much the blade is sticking out, the leg will be that much smaller. Would it be better to make it custom-fitted to a plane, and make the guide tapers thin enough to miss the blade as it slides down? I will try it that way, and see how it turns out....
How do you keep the plane from cutting into the guide rails?
only a risk when you are very close to final size. THen you just take care to run your plane in the center of the jig, or skew your plane in the jig so the front left corner and right rear corner are rubbing against the jig side.
Do these need to be run-in like a shooting board?
No, not really, as the side pieces are narrower than the distance between the sides of the plane and the cutting edge of the iron so the plane sole rides the carriers and they are never reduced at all.
It would seem like using a narrower plane, like the #4, you could risk planing some of the jig off if you don't drive it straight down the center. Great jig though. Thanks Paul!
Could you rejigger this to make a jig for making chopsticks?
Absolutely
i guess you have to turn the piece 90 degrees after each pass if you want it tapered all around, or else you will taper one side only
Jig only seems to work for two sided tapering, turning after first effort.
i wish i could remove that 1 dislike..
It was probably from the guy that discovered this jig only works for two sided tapering
Very nice. Once you make (as needed) differently tapered "runners", you can mark them (with actual taper in inch-per-foot or with project names) and build a collection to save with the jig. For four-sided tapers there could be a "first pass" and a "second pass" pair of runners for a given taper.
Would there be any point in making a special blade for the plane which was relieved at the sides so it wouldn't cut into the runners? (This might be an issue if you were doing a large number of identical copies of a project - say for a set of 12 dining chairs. That way the last ones would be the same size as the first ones.)
EDIT: Answering my own question, after thinking it over: No; because the blade is not the full width of the plane so there will always be some uncut surface at the outer edges of the runners for the plane to ride on.
Excellent reply to yourself. Thanks!