Air Conditioning Not Working (system performance, leak test) - Honda CRV
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- I will show you how to find a leak on any A/C system as well as how to test the entire A/C electrical system with one quick test.
The procedures shown in this video can be applied to all R12 and R134a systems.
Tests shown
- how to locate a leak using soap, water and compressed air
- how to locate an EVAP core leak with an electronic leak detector
- how to test the compressor clutch
- how to test the A/C compressor
Tools used
- ATD Tools 3695 Deluxe Dual Aluminum A/C Manifold Gauge Set
www.jbtoolsale...
- FJC 6909 3.0 CFM Vacuum Pump
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- FJC 9281 Vacuum Pump & Gauge Set Assortment
www.jbtoolsale...
- Meguiars M9911 Spray Bottle W/Sprayer
www.jbtoolsale...
- Mothers 05664 California Gold Car Wash 64 oz
www.jbtoolsale...
- Bayco NSR-2168B LED Rechargeable Work Light - 600 Lumens w/3 Magnets Lithium-ion Battery
www.jbtoolsale...
- TIF Instruments RX-1A Refrigerant Leak Detector
www.jbtoolsale...
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For more information on this topic, I have written a “field manual” called Engine Performance Diagnostics which is available at www.scannerdanner.com as an eBook or paper book.
Want even more diagnostic training? Whether you are a DIY trying to fix your own car, someone looking to become an auto technician, or a current auto technician that wants to get more into diagnostics, subscribe to ScannerDanner Premium www.scannerdan... There is a 14 day free trial.
On ScannerDanner Premium I will bring you right into my classroom at Rosedale Technical College. You will find page for page lectures taken right from my book as well as exclusive classroom type case studies. What is so special about these classroom case studies? I pull live problem vehicles directly into my classroom and we troubleshoot them in real time, using and applying the theory and testing procedures we learn during the classroom lectures. There is no better on-line training of how to troubleshoot automotive electrical and electronics systems anywhere!
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.
![A/C Repair Lasted One Day [What Did I Do Wrong?] - Part 1](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nCTgcal4N94/mqdefault.jpg)
Paul is TRULY unique and very talented teacher/ technician. When I first saw one of his videos in 2011 I knew from the start I should learn from him. Glad I subscribed . He has a gift for diagnosing very complicated cases that would want to make a any other technician pull his hair out. What's amazing is he can" walk the walk and talk the talk". I bought is ebook and course which helped me to pass the L1 test the first time! I really struggled with electrical and electronics but he helped me to think and learn outside the box!
Don't worry about the trolls, they couldn't touch you with a 10ft pole!! Keep on doing what you are doing Paul because you're blessed
Thank you so much for this comment.
@@ScannerDanner Paul, where do you get the adapters to charge the AC system with shop air?
Thanks again for this comment. Just happened on it again.
Can you put this comment on my feedback page of my website? www.scannerdanner.com/leave-read-feedback-new.html
Nice job. We usually use dye but tried the soap and water test the other day when dye wasn't showing anything. The bubbles showed us the leak. Still have a freon sniffer, 25 yrs old, still works. Excellent video showing the importance of having multiple methods to diagnose with.
{read all I have a good tip at the end} I've owned 3 tif sniffers and 1 other one for 12 and 134 {can't remember the brand on it} none were satisfactory. Not sensitive enough. Have used dye and black light for the last 25 years and it works great. Allows you to see leak on evap after removal for verification. Have since bought a ROBINAIR model L D 3. It has proven to be the most sensitive, therefore the best sniffer i have ever used. I still use the dye for visible areas and the sniffer for shaft seals and evap cores.Testing a shaft seal, pull belt and tape a plastic bag around the nose of the compressor, leave over night. Poke a small hole in bag and sniff inside of the bag. This will show a small leak that gets worse under pressure that you can't find and /or test with the engine running.
I love these HVAC videos. Great camerawork from Caleb btw!
Yep I've seen it happen more than once that after replacing a leaking condenser the compressor won't turn on. Awesome to tell that to your customer. So a quick check just like Paul did rules that out. 👍
Thanks Dylan!
That's me too, cardboard and some slight frustration. Finding the leak is such a big win and relief. I think everyone noticed smiles afterwards. Great video !!!
If only tv programmes were as good as your videos i might switch on the tv more! Great video Paul
haha nice! Thank you
Trash,aka leaves, can close off a leak under vacuum while air pressure will show leak. Had a hose leak that vacuum pulled a foam insulation tube tight and closed it off. R 12 of course leaked. I could hear it. That taught me a lesson. Holding vacuum does not mean no leak under pressure.
Lisle now makes a stethoscope with a hollow tube. I made one years ago from the Y from a nurses old stethoscope and a piece of brake tube. This is great for air and vacuum leaks as well as finding noises on the front of engines. Bearings like water pumps, p s pumps, alternator, idler, and belt tensioner pulleys.
Love your stuff. Keep up the good work.
One other thought, I taped a freezer bag around the nose of a compressor and left it over night. Next morning I opened a hole in the bag sniffed it and found a small pesky leak that had been driving me nuts trying to find it.
Had a minor leak that was a serious gremlin!!! Turned out to be the high pressure side fitting at the compressor! Had my gauges on while searching! Never considered the fittings!
Just used the compressed air trick on my Nissan Sentra. The compressor came on right away. Saved some money by not wasting refrigerant. Thanks for the money saving tip.
Adding Shop air is a great way to test the A/C integrity along with finding leaks. You can crank the engine...turn on the A/C and do alot of checks without using any refrigerant. Love the nitrogen guys. They should know that the air we breathe is 75% nitrogen...Most shops have water traps to REMOVE moisture out of the shop air. Been doing it this way for 36 plus years. Very cost effective! Check your manifold guage lines too at the service valves and at the guages...found plenty of leaks there over the years...lol
The only reason nitrogen is used is it is the cheapest bottled gas there is, it is only used because there is no moisture..
I know I'm watching older videos, but I can't believe this information is free...
I've had a significant problem with my AC in my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country, & thanks to your videos, I've FINALLY figured it out. I finally feel like I THOROUGHLY understand how it operates, and I'm fully prepared to handle anything else that might go wrong with it.
Thank you!! ❤️👍👌
Awesome! Thank you and I'm glad you found me. Appreciate the comments
By the very nature of the design of the shraeder valve, it is more likely to leak under vacuum than pressure. by design, pressure tends to hold it closed as a vacuum would tend to open it.
That system never operates in a vacuum though
@@kellismith4329 Captain Obvious reporting for duty! 😂
Good luck finding a leak under vacuum
Thanks for the very fundamental and understandable explanation of how an AC system works its components etc
Excellent diag Paul. That's what this channel is all about about. Many guys would just throw a compressor or condenser at it because " they've fixed 100s of theses ". It will bite you in the butt. Test don't guess. I can't believe it held vac with a Evap core leak. As usual a great example of showing future techs how to go though it correctly and get it repaired.
I know! I was surprised too. Thanks so much for the comment
All I can say, damn you are good. I watch your Durango AC and surprisingly this video shows up. Your technique and approach to diagnose the problems were excellent. You also answer my question if I can pump air into the system. And a special thanks to Caleb.
For those on here pushing nitrogen just remember the air is made of approx 80% nitrogen!! And if you're worried about moisture any leak repair on a vehicle should include a receiver dryer!!
to say nothing of when the proper method for charging is employed a vacuum will be applied for a min of 20 min and will boil any moisture from the system
So glad I went from automotive to heavy duty field. So much easier to access the engine bay.
You do know your sniffer tool went off the first time when you had it at the drain tube at 24:23 should have left it there a little longer.
Finally someone using a laser pointer!!! Now I can see exactly
the part you're referring too !!! Good video, I'm now going to work on my A/C system with "PRICELESS " knowledge!!! Thanks Paul !!!
If you need additional help, post to my forum www.scannerdanner.com, it is free to join, hope to see you there!
Thanks God for showing your tecnic on how to locate the leaks on airconditioning system.
On Hondas.the dryer is built in.with co denser.
This guy is a joke. How can you teach someone something when you don't even know wtf you are looking at.
Guess what Paul? After I saw you pumping air into the AC system I went out and do the same to my 2006 VW Passat. I can hear the air escaping from the system. In less than 2 minutes, I found the low pressure hose was rapture. You save me headache and $$$. I am hoping all I need to do is to replacing the hose than charge the system. I hope the compressor is still good from running the AC without refrigerant and oil. Thanks to you and Caleb too.
perfect example why I use the air method. Just make sure you pull a good vacuum on the system to boil off any moisture after your repair and you should be good to go. Maybe add an ounce of oil when you replace that hose but I wouldn't add any more than that.
@@ScannerDanner Wanting to complete what I started here by watching the video. Replace the low pressure hose. Vacuum the system, add 1oz of oil and 600g of R134. AC is cold and much nicer drive. Your video made the difference. Thank You.
God bless you God bless you. I'm learning so much from your videos honestly. Thank you that you share so much information so humbly and in simple terms and explanations that we can understand i mean totally new to the field of hvac like me. Appreciated 🙏✌
Good diagnosis. Im surprised it held vaccum. Normals i let it sit on vacuum for 15mins then let it rest for 15 mins. Have you had luck by running the a/c then using the leak detector in the hvac vents instead of the drain tube?
Not really a valid test. Blowing air into the detector usually will set off a false positive. The detector has a tiny air pump that draws in a metered air amount. It's just as easy to sneak the detector probe to the drain tube. Check towards the end of the video where he states not to blow air or have blown air into the probe.
exactly what I was going to say Wrench life 604
Your a good teacher. And there is nothing dumb about forgetting soapy water at home!
hey Paul. once I know there's a leak I always remove gauges and check the Schrader valves had loads of them leaking .
my bad commented before you said it 😂
Nice job, good use of the soap & water test i would have never thought of that. Can't make money watching TV but you can make money watching scanner Danner's videos. Great job. Going to order a leak detector.
Thanks JD
Tiff detectors are used in the fire service. Solid equipment.
Persistence is the take away.
just a thought. pressure is about 130 psi above atmosphere. vac. is only 30 difference(well a perfect vacuum would be 14.7 less than atmosphere at sea level), so that could explain y it held vac. and not pressure. Also vac. could pull the rupture closed. If you put a micron gauge on it I think it would show up right away. I really don't know why the auto industry doesn't require the use of a micron gauge when evacuating. I have seen so many wet systems that just were not cooling well. I hear some people put air in a system to leak check, which would require longer evac. Awesome vid.
Like your test methods, never thought of compressed air. Great still learning at 59 years of age very informative .
Hey Paul, your refrigerant detector will detect any halogen-bearing gas. A great way to test it is with a can of duster.
I really appreciate how honest u r.
I love that gauge set you're using. My HF one broke. The plastic knob cracked in half. I clicked the link down below and just ordered one. Love your video's
I figure if a guy like you uses it, it's good.
Awesome education Paul. Excellent job. I am VERY appreciative !
Thank you!
That is really interesting about -30 pressure water boils. I know one thing, I'm going to need a note book pad for all of my notes from your videos... Thanks for teaching
Water boils in space instantly think about that bc the vacuume is much higher the -30 psi....
Man, I can't stop looking at that white eldorado. Such a pretty car, I have a tan ETC myself, love that car.
Very Nice 👍🏻 👍🏻👍🏻 Its fix A/C units time of year everywhere and it's very cool to see someone else ether then "Me" doing it.. Great Video Bro' ....
Your closing in fast paul on the big 100K sub mark, awesome!!
That time of year again! Thankfully! :)
3:58 - a rare Pete sighting! :D
I lost my hearing the same way, Paul. Too much Van Halen (the D.L.R. days), April Wine, Iron Maiden, Motley Crue, Judas Priest, Twisted Sister, etc., and occasional gunfire and fireworks. :D
You used pretty much all the methods I use for leak detection, except for the dye / UV light deal. That works pretty good for the small ones. Just about every modern vehicle has dye in it right from the factory too ... which reminds me that I need to replace my busted UV light! My Bacharach H-10 Pro is absolutely amazing, but probably out of most DIY'ers price range I'd imagine. Then when the sensor wears out, it's almost as much as a cheap leak detector itself!
Just did a compressor, condenser, accumulator, and o-tube on a '02 1500HD. Boy I'll tell ya, GM did some fine engineering on that compressor - lets stick it way down underneath, and then put the lower bolts where everything is in the way. Only my Snap-On ratchet with a 15mm deep could reach the lower, rearmost bolt without interference. Grrr!! No need for that type of engineering! We put men on the moon almost half a century ago, and nobody can design a vehicle with easy access to every system??? Ok, I'm done ranting ... for now ... :) I did see an area with dirt sticking on the lower driver's side of the condenser - sprayed that with Windex (normally works great as a leak finder, especially on tires & tubes, since it sucks as a glass cleaner), but saw nothing. The H-10 Pro screamed when I got near it on the "small" setting - should've started out on "medium" as I found later. Found a 2nd leak at the inlet connection - corrosion forced it's way in between the sealing surface and distorted the o-ring. No surprise on a 15 year old MA vehicle.
Got a 14 Ram to do a compressor on. Only 60k, but the owner decided to do his own A/C repair, and charged the system using parts store cans with stop leak, and charged them into atmospheric pressure. Fired the system up, and the compressor got really loud for 3 short cycles, then quit. He got worried when the can gauge was pegged, and let some pressure out, but it still didn't work, so he came over here to find out why. I found the rubber damper / "fuse" had broken, allowing the clutch to engage, but not turn the inner portion that's connected to the compressor shaft. Got a new compressor coming, but the stop leak deal has me worried. Hopefully I can change it out fast ...
I’ve used compressed air because we will vacuum the system anyway but I did replace the compressor and condenser with desiccant. Also check the valve cores sometimes they stick open after charging and this happened on my Acura so I just blipped the valve and it sealed.
Hey Paul, excellent video. I hope that you see this message and are able to reply. I think the main reason why you shouldn't use compressed shop air is because that shop air has a higher abundance of water in it that atmospheric air, so you will saturate the desiccant in the system. It may not be an issue if the system is completely empty and has been for a while as it is already saturated, but if the system is low from a leak but not empty it may not be something that you want to do.
I would agree, if a system is low and not empty, shop air is not my first choice. In those cases, adding some refrigerant and dye would be better.
First I want to say very good video, very helpful. I want to address the issue of finding a leak under vacuum vs finding a leak with 150 psi air in system. When you evacuate the system to about 29 - 30 inches of mercury, what you are relying on is the atmospheric pressure pushing on the exterior of the system trying to get in. Atmospheric pressure is only about 14.5 psi, that is all. When you pressurize the system to 150 psi the difference between the system pressure and the atmospheric pressure is 135.5 psi ( 150 - 14.5 = 135.5 psi) . So, in one case you have 14.5 psi trying to get in the system, in the other case you have 135.5 psi trying to get out. That is why when you evacuate a system you may not initially see a leak or have to let it sit a very long time before it is noticeable. So yes, pressurizing the system is more effective for finding leaks than evacuating it.
wow... great diagnostics!
thanks for sharing.
Caleb did great!! Videographer extraordinaire
he did! thanks
before I even consider doing an a/c service on a Honda I first check the a/c clutch driver once I confirm that the pcm can activate the compressor I put the gauges on it if no freon is present I shoot half a lb of freon with dye and check the low side port and then the high side port of the gauges .. on Hondas 1/2 lb of freon usually kicks on the ac .. .. if the condenser fan and ac turn on just top off the freon .. check gauges every 15 min .. usually it's a clogged condenser internally or externally that causes high pressure and pops a leak .. accumulators gets replace along with a flush if the evaporator is not leaking. .
Dye work very well with comp. seal leak when it running
I have used dye plenty of time. I never seen the dye work for the shaft seal
Dude,rubber gloves and real eye protection is a MUST. Just wait till you have a quick connect come off or a schrader removal that dumps your entire charge......
Paul I always enjoy your videos I appreciate them. I watched a Cat tech pressurize a TD 25 Dozer with I think 300 plus lb of nitrogen and leak test . Next time I have a leak I going to use shop air thanks for the tip
If you have access to nitrogen, by all means use it
scanner both hi an low open is best because it is faster
That was a real bad evaporator leak to set off the detector. Usually when evaporators are in there early stages of leaking, you have to pull the blower motor resistor out and shine a black light with uv glasses at it. This thing prob got recharged a few times over the year until it started leaking out faster, then the leak was provable with a leak detector. Also evaporators leak out faster when the a/c off because it roughly at 70 too 100 psi off and 20 psi when a/c is on. False positives with leak detectors come from lack of training I'm glad Paul cleared up. Way better info than what conventional school or service manuals teaches you. Don't get desperate and throw a common part at it when you can't prove it leaking
exactly! thanks man
thanks dude, i learn so much from u and you have made me tons of money..!!! i also subscribe to your paid channel... my rookie mechanic watches you one hour everday as a semi training class... your awesome and just wanted to say thanks..keep up the good work
Awesome! You will start to see the benefits of him watching these videos. Especially the premium ones. Thanks again!
If you're gonna make a pocket screwdriver make sure it has a good magnet on it. They're all so weak.
one where you walk past something metal and it pulls itself out of your pocket right?
@ScannerDanner at the bare minimum, haha
ScannerDanner or just rips your pocket off.
So strong so that when a lady comes in to get her car serviced, she says "Is that a magnet in your pocket, or are you just happy to see me?"
I enjoyed the video as it was very informative. This will help me repair the ac on my 1993 Buick Park Avenue.
An endoscope with a big screen would be perfect to checking hard-to-see places when looking for leaks. I bought mine at Costco for about $50.
Nice one. Btw why do you americans insist on using a temp scale based on one dudes rectal temp? your car industry is for the most part metric, why not go celsius too? ☺
hahaha
"Rectal" plays a large part in design of American (and also import) designs of automotive. We're often heard to say in the field "What A&&hole designed this???"
ScannerDanner Can you use that tool to put in the a.c. vent.and detect the leak through the vent also. Will definitely look up that tool.100% better than the dye leak finder.
Filiberto Barrara
You cannot have the blower running at all, due to false positives. So no, unless the leak is huge, using the vent in the dash is not a good test. The drain tube is always best for testing the EVAP core.
I found the updated version of the tool I used and linked it in the description of this video. Thank you!
ScannerDanner Thanks good to know.your method of looking for this issue.Just saved me hrs of wasted money and work.Thanks again.we appreciate any video you make .
Awesome video. I really like how you use compressed air to check for leaks.
I believe that CRV doesn’t require a dash removal for the evap. I believe just the glove box needs to be dropped.
The reason it didn't seem to leak with the vacuum is because atmospheric pressure is only 14.7 psi. No matter how powerful the vacuum is you can't have anymore pressure than that pushing in the air. So your basically comparing the the pressure loss at 150 psi vs 15 psi
Paul your video's are AWESOME and very helpful, learned a lot and will continue to learn, thank you very much.
Thank you Vald K!
I repaired AC systems for years and virtually never found a leak using a vacuum, total waste of time unless a gaping hole. Only worthwhile test I found was OFN or a leak detector. You could also see leaks on condensers as it would leave a oily deposit or dye on the surface.
Harbor Freight Tool has about the same sniffer leak detector for $69. I bought mine from there 5 years ago and its worked great ever since. Home - Automotive & Motorcycle - Refrigeration. I bought mine for $39 I think it was on sale.
It's not the same. It may look the same but it's not the same manufacturer
Oh no. No where near the same manufacturer . The chiwanease version of the one you got. But It does do a very good job of finding leaks.
cool, thanks for the info
Is that compressed air" used to raise and check for system tightness must be refrigerated in order to ensure not adding water in form of moisture in the system. Why not using dry nitrogen to do so?
I do (nitrogen) in my newer AC videos.
@@ScannerDannerdoes that indicate you've reversed your position on using shop air for testing?
Talking about “false positives” with your sniffer makes me think that it’s as accurate as a covid test! Thank you for all the knowledge! I recently found your channel and have learned quite a bit!
Thank you and welcome!
on newer vehicle,most of the time they put dye from the factory.. so a quick visual inspect with UV light works sometimes
I hooked up my gauges and vacuum pump left it on for about an hour and had no drop on the gauges. I either hooked them up wrong which I'm pretty sure I didn't do but I'm going to disconnect the line where the orofice tube goes in and I'm going to tape a rubber glove on each open line and try and vacuum again. By the way, I support you with the air pressure in the system to find the leak. Your going to vacuum it out anyways
I put a rubber glove on the RED line and it was being sucked, my blue line glove wasn't. So this tells me my schrader valve might not be opening but not sure why the glove wasn't being sucked? This sucks and now raining, time to put things back together
Also with these Hondas the evap cores are famous for leaking due to customers not changing the cabin filter. On Hondas like these Ill always check the condition of the cabin filter.
What's the reason for a cabin air filter causing an evaporator failure? Is a clogged filter supposed to prevent the evaporator from drying off and causing it to corrode?
Seems like an odd correlation.
@dubmob151 It's very common. Not just on Hondas. But more prevalent. The cabin filter stops debris over time. But if enough time goes by the filter clogs. This prevents proper airflow through the evaporator. AC systems are thermodynamic systems. One thing will effect the other. The loss of airflow can essentially freeze the evaporator core. Evaporator cores are made if aluminum. Get it that cold and you lose structural integrity. Sometimes is just debris that gets onto the evaporator itself. And that causes corrosion. The evaporator is essentially constantly wet. This is why all vehicle hvac systems have drains. Yet another consequence is a clogged drain. I've seen evaporator cores fail due to lack of filter changes where the core looks prestine. And I've also seen ones that look like it's been dragged through a swamp. The manufacturer design also comes into play. Not an odd correlation at all. Residential evaporator cores (called coils) will do the same thing. If you've ever changed your home ac filter you can see that debris builds up. Wait too long and you'll have to replace the coil. Again there's a combination of things going on. Thermodynamics, filtration and airflow. All will affect each other and cause early failures. Or sometimes not necessarily early. But nevertheless is the root cause.
@@edwinlomonaco6754 wouldn't the txv shut off the flow of refrigerant if it freezes? I could see if debris clogged up the evaporator and kept it wet all the time it'd promote corrosion, maybe if someone just removed the filter entirely. Or a clogged drain that keeps it in a puddle all the time.
@dubmob151 Not always. Some ac systems have up to 6 sensors/switches or more. But some only have a high pressure switch. So something fairly modern typically has a high pressure switch, evaporator temp sensor and an ambient temp sensor. Also when I say freeze I don't mean completely frozen. Just runs colder than it should. Significantly colder. But not frozen. In some cases that ac will never blow colder than when that evaporator is about to fail. But the pressure sensor on the high side of the system isn't going to see a difference large enough to turn off the compressor. If it has a low pressure it might see. And if it has an evaporator temperature sensor it may blow cool but not cold. Because the evaporator temperature sensor will tell the hvac control module to pwm the compressor less due to the temp sensor readings being too low. So you see it's not quite that simple.
@@edwinlomonaco6754 I wouldn't peg the primary cause of failed evaporators being the cabin filters not being changed often enough, it's got to be all the other factors predominating.
today dryers are often included in the condenser...it´s more or less a small bag stuffed into the condenser..it can be changed opening a big service plug at the condenser
thanks for the tip!
Pro tip if you think ur evaporator is leaking and there is dye in the system get a small bucket or cup and let the evaporator drip into it for a while and if the evaporator is leaking u will get small trace amounts of dye oil in the cup.
I don’t use a sniffer I’ve had false positives cause more problems then anything. I charge the system and put dye in and I’ve never had a leak I couldn’t find. I had 2 vehicles come in recently one want to 3 shops plus the dealer and they couldn’t find the leak I just used soapy water and 5 min leak found. The other was at their regular mechanics shop and after a few a/c services the customer paid them to do they said the evaporator was bad and they couldn’t do it. I gave her a price which she tried to get me to do it cheaper I said ur mechanic doesn’t want to do it because it’s a huge job it takes all day and shops pretty much loose money doing them because we can do two 4 wheel brake jobs in much less time and make more money so it’s not that ur mechanic and all the other shops I’m sure u called can’t do it they just don’t want to waste the time and shops recommended my shop. She said yeah I did call a bunch of shops and nobody could do it, I figured shops would be jumping at the chance because it’s an expensive job but it must be true what you say and yeah actually 3 shops gave me ur number and a coworker recommended you I was trying to find a shop closer to me. So I ordered a evaporator because nobody had one in stock it was 3 days out, she drops off, I start working it the next day and after 5 minutes I said to myself wtf are you doing check it for leaks first u never go off any other shops diag which I did and the condenser was leaking. I replaced the condenser and call the customer saying I have great news ur mechanic diagnosed wrong it was the condenser so I saved you over 600 bucks! She didn’t even sound excited she asked if it would be cheaper if she paid cash lol I said did you hear me correctly I saved you over 600 bucks? She said yes thanks so if I pay cash will it be cheaper? I said you also need an oil change which ur car takes full synthetic it’s $80 plus tax if u want I’ll do it for $60 then ur bill will be an even 800 bucks and No that is the cash price if u use a card it will be 4% credit card fee. She said her mechanic charges $50 so if I can do it for $50 then go ahead I said no I can’t do that we make next to nothing on oil changes the $60 I said I would do it for is my break even number after materials and paying an employee to do it. She said ok then don’t do it. She calls me back saying her husband said to just do it. I couldn’t believe she asked me to do anything cheaper after saving her over 600 bucks. I could have done the evaporator and not checked it out that’s what she said to do just replace the evaporator she already had it diagnosed but I am a professional so I checked it out and she didn’t even appreciate it really and was really trying to get me to take off 10 more dollars from the oil change I already took 20 off. If I was the customer I would have given a $50 tip or bought the shop lunch the next day
As long as u put the system on a vacuum it will get the humidity out of the system as long as ur air lines aren’t filled with water ur fine.
If you gave her a $100 discount on the requested job, you'd have been up $500 and she would have been positively thrilled. Win-win😅
For her, the goal is getting a discount, a perceived one notwithstanding
The tif ultrasonic leak detector kicks ass too.Mine is 20 or so years old.
Same as this one! (20 years old)
What about under the connection where you plug the gauge connector on. I seen those leak.
I have exactly the same pump..China seems to sell them to everywhere in the world :-) it works perfectly fine for DIY AC repairs , no need to pay more for those few time a year you vacuums you pull at home
yep
If it's had dye ran in it you can throw a tarp over the front to make it dark then the UV light clearly glows.
opening both valves let's the pump pull faster than opening only 1 valve
and forcing air into the system heats it up so the pressure right after putting air in will drop as the system cools down nitrogen is much more stable and it has no moisture which can be absorbed by the ac oil
The nitrogen warning would be using it in a close shop area or not a well ventilation area
I know you are good but never watched any video made by you until today. Thank you for this amazing tutorial on checking leaks. Just curious, why the soap spray doesn't work on the drain tube?
Because the EVAP core is exposed to the vents, so the drain tube would never be pressurized. Make sense?
Seems to be some common perception that the drain tube is some kind of outlet from the evaporator.
The evaporator is sitting in a box that's open to the air, and condensed water drips off it into the box, and the drain hose just takes the collected water and routes it outside the passenger compartment.
I thought of the evaporator when I saw all those leafs piled up in the air cowl. My father-in-law parked under a tree for years he burned up his fan and his evarp core corroded
R 134a is not a "Freon" in the real sense of the word, like R 12 is. It does not have chlorine atoms in its composition, thus it cannot attack O3 molecule in the stratosphere, so it has negligible ozone depletion potential...unlike R 12. Regardless, it is not wise to let it escape into the atmosphere because it has certain global warming potential and also it costs money. So good job Paul using compressed air to find the leak.
Isn’t the receiver dryer next to the condenser on Honda’s?
Late entry
Great vidio SD, but when you were pressure and soap testing ,you were so close to finding leak at drain but it looked like did not actually spray drain hose and look for bubbles. But I still enjoyed video
Thanks
Mike L Rogers
Why would you expect bubbles at the drain hose though? It's not in a sealed compartment-
Great information. Thank you very much!
I had the expensive yellow CPS leak detector, same thing happened, batteries leaked in it. i scraped the connections and it worked, but never that good. replaced the crystal thing on the tip, still worked like crap, very unreliable.
just went to Amazon recently, bought a cheap knockoff for $25 and it works great, can hardly believe it.
Just watched your video. Wouldn't you need to turn off the vacuum pump and then look for it leak down?
If I closed the manifold gauge valves, it isolates the vacuum pump
In that drain tube where the leak was at, couldn't you use a clear plastic cup (gatorade bottle) with water and with the air pressure test put the cup with the drain tube submerged in the water, wouldn't that show bubbles?
great demonstration dan
My name is Paul Danner 😉
Thank you!
Yellow Jackets leak detector works really well too
Oh I’m disappointed you are not doing the repair.
Hey there Paul, any chance you could link me to a chart/resource showing the Pressure Temp Relationship for r134a when the system is at rest and equalized? Having trouble finding one. I know you said its close to 1:1 with farenheight, but i've gotta know the exact values.
just google r134a pressure temperature chart. I just did and there are a ton of them. Thanks!
Should probably check the A/C valve which is most common and easy to locate but it will be easier wth a sniffer and ur dye
I did, later in the video
Most common leak points:
1. Service port valves!!!
2. Compressor
3. Condenser
most common ac failures on ford dryer
switch
and evaporators.
all cheap material
I'm pretty sure its the low side port on my Chrysler. Granted, I accidentally overcharged the system, but when I removed the connector I could see the anti-leak bubbling out of the port. Wasn't happy to see that..
So if the compressor doesn't come on right away will it suck in the refrigerant?
Hey Paul, how are you man? I feel so defeated and disappointed. I worked on my AC all day yesterday and it ended up still not working. I replaced the condenser with drier and H block which should fix things and it didn’t change a thing. I know you get tons of messages but I messaged you about a month ago explaining the situation going on with my AC system and you suggested changing out the H block based on the information I provided. I did that and changed out my condenser with drier as well for a peace of mind and certainly think this would fixed things and nothing. I have a deep suspicion that my compressor might be bad. It’s a new compressor i bought off eBay and have it installed 3 months ago. Nothings else make sense. When I removed the old H block and the old condenser, some liquidy, wet, oily green, black stuff came out. Don’t know if that’s normal or not but it was noticeable. I tried just about everything I possibly can think of. Do you have any other suggestions?
What are your pressures?
@@ScannerDanner hey Paul, thanks for replying. My pressures are 65psi on the low side and about 150psi on the high side with ambient temperature of 86 degrees. It’s the same exact readings I had before I replaced the H block and the condenser. Also to note. The air coming out the vents are usually 10,12 degrees cooler than whatever the temperature is outside. It doesn’t matter how hot or how cold it is it’s always 10, 12 degrees cooler. This was before I replaced the H block and the condenser. Now it just blows hot air except when I get on the highway and cruise at around 65, 70 MPH, it gets cool to around 62,62 degrees. I find that very strange.
@@ricardooconnor2362 man, that does sound like a compressor. What are your pressures at 2500-3000 rpm?
@@ScannerDanner Hey Paul. That I don’t know. I didn’t try that. What I can tell you is the AC cools when I am on the highway at a cruising speed of about 65,70mph. I noticed when I cruise at that speed (65,70mph) and accelerate to go a little faster, the cool air (62,64 degrees) changes to whatever the temperature is outside which was 84 at the time.
@@ricardooconnor2362 it sounds like your compressor is having a hard time doing its job. It's weak and can't pull as well as it should nor push as much as it should (high low side and low high side pressures)
Awesome video Paul. I got made fun of saying RADiator while I lived in Virginia too. I can't help it, born in Brooklyn, raised in NJ lol
haha nice. Thanks for the comment brother
Honda has a non adverse recall on the condenser, Thay replaced the condenser and pump after the new car warranty was up.
Hi Paul in my 09 Tacoma I'm replacing the compressor and the condenser. There seems to be a lot of controversy about how much oil to put in. My plan is to measure the oil from the old compressor and replace in the new compressor with the same amount. When it comes to the condenser I don't know how much or how to put it in. I think the drier is also part of the condenser do I need to put oil in that too if so how much in the condenser and the drier. Thanks
Each component replaced in an AC system would have a certain amount of oil. For the condensor, I'd add an ounce or two at most. For the compressor, you can drain it and measure what you drained but most likely nothing will come out. Put an ounce in for that too. Then an ounce or two for the drier. So if you are doing the condenser, drier, and compressor, I'd say that you want to add 4-5 ounces to your system.
Thank you for answering my question I appreciate it very much. Also for all your videos and for sharing your skills.
Very informative as always. Thanks!
Thank you
Hice work Scanner Danner. Thank. You Master.
Nice.
I like this videos than the premium videos.
I'm with happy on this I would just put a dye in the system run it for 15-30 minutes and look for a leak. if you're loosing that much it should show right away.
Thanks that was informative 👍 Dan 😊
You should've used dye prior to putting compressed air into the system. May have made it a little easier
dye will not circulate with air psi
great job paul
Use UV dye with UV light the easiest way to check for leaks you will see it glowing
I'm not going to start an AC leak check with an empty system by adding refrigerant and dye. You are wasting and venting that newly added refrigerant right into the atmosphere in a lot of cases. Secondly, adding refrigerant and dye would NOT have shown on the EVAP drain tube for a very long time. The dye would not have helped me locate this leak any faster than my leak detector did.