Nice use of tools. Would suggest for Northeast climates to use deck tape for under tread wood on wood to prevent underside rot and get longer life. In TX likely not an issue. You make great projects and tutorials.
Wonderful episode. Have missed your educational efforts So Proud of you, setting an admiral example, regarding safety APRIL you truly LEAD by example Keep up the good work in 2021
Ah my lovely wife and I went through that wonderful post setting process for our shed as well. Good job you two working together without poking each other in the eye!
Thanks for the Stain and Seal endorsement. I’ve been using One-Time stain and sealer and it’s costly ($85 a gallon) and takes days to dry due to having to be UV treated in the sun. Couldn’t find drying times for this product, so I may contact company. Like the fact it’s low in VOC so I can apply in basement and ready to use when dry. Living in NY is getting cold now and shorter days cause longer curing time. Thanks again for another well explained and interesting project. 😉
That's very beautiful. An extra idea , you can close the sides of first 10 steps of below the staircase with adding a door become a garden tool storage. Nice job
Nice rebuild on the stairs. I am glad to see you using American wood products. Lots of people are using IPE and other non-sustainable rainforest wood. Yeah, Ipe - most of it is 100+ years old and being installed in locations where it only lasts 20 years at most.
@ 12:14 ....thanks for mentioning your lack of code-compliant handrail....BUT, you can STILL INSTALL one that is GRIPPABLE...definitely a vital (sometimes literally) component to a proper staircase. You all did a great job on this project, though. Thanks for walking us through and sharing the details.
Did you let your Pressure Treated Lumber dry out before staining and sealing? Usually it takes roughly 3 months. Our PT wood we get here in Georgia is mostly wet and heavy.
April always delivers awesome projects. This is no exception: real redhead...knows how to work a crowbar...a sawsall...and a propane torch...hubbs better make sure he stays on her good side.
I always look forward to your videos to see what cool thing you’ve worked on. I’m amazed those old stairs were still standing. That looked dangerous. I thought I heard you say the upper balcony was in equally bad shape. So I guess I’m curious from a build standpoint why you would repair the stairs first. If you are going to have to tear down the upper balcony won’t that mean your brand new staircase will need to be reattached to a new upper deck? Also curious on choice of treated wood versus something like Trex for the treads as in your treehouse patio project. Given the Texas heat I would think maybe the trex would be more durable and lower maintenance. Just curious. Always trying to learn. Keep up the great work and these videos.
I love the place where you live. Texas seems to be very peaceful and nice to live. I live in France and we don't have this weather and this proximity to nature. By the way, very good job for the stairs. It will be far more robust than the old one, will last much longer and the look is definitely nicer.
Thats insane how shallow the posts holes were. I absolutely love the pecan color. 😍 this staircase came out great, which is not surprising seeing all the other videos that I've watched that you've done.
Re your comment about code and your choice to ignore. As you said check the code. You will find that the handrails should extend one tread width +12" beyond the bottom of the stair. They don't end at the newel post. Landings have guardrails not handrails and guard rails should be 42" tall. The grip type hand rail can be added on brackets below the top of the handrail. This next one gets a little technical and requires visualization. The first tread at the top of each run should be level to the landing. This allows the stringer to have full purchase to the header. Simpson has solved the problem with the connector that you used but if this was being built in steel the shop detailer would change the design to allow for a full welded connection. And let you know all about it! FYI Simpson makes a connector for this design also LSCZ. Their install drawings show the correct detail And I also like the idea of the post anchors. I don't like putting wood in concrete. The concrete acts as a cup that holds water accelerating the rot process. Packing the hole with dry sand works really well as the dry sand expands when it gets damp securing the post. (this from Norm on TOH)
Great episode! One question tough, why dont you use a impact driver instead of a drill for screws? i find it abit more noisy yes, but the lack of tourqe on your wrist is worth it for me.
Great video and result! I'm very interested in that post saver wrap. I checked out the link and was amazed at how inexpensive they were. It appears in the video that you did not cover it all the way don to the end of the post. I remember you said it would be about 2" above ground but wondering why it wasn't double wrapped or something to ensure full coverage below ground. Hope I'm not missing anything here, thanks for posting.
Instead of Jacob latter it's Jacob stairs and thank you for showing tutorial on stairs because it helps please keep making more of these awesome videos
Was diagonal bracing not required on the midpoint landing? It would definitely cut down any sway. Code here is 8 feet before it's needed, but everyone has an opinion, and code has its own say.
ma'am, i noticed something that im curious about, when you put on that 2nd flight of stairs, i could be wrong but i think you butted the bottom of that to the landing side, why not just make the landing a little longer and sit the stair treads on the boards/surface? im no carpenter(except on paper, i build on paper for s&g's) but i would think they wouldnt be as strong mounted to the side as they would with the force of weight and gravity transferred with something underneath it.
Hidden under the "skirt" of the stairs, i'd add on the span that's connected to the house, two lengths of wire to keep it tensioned and pulled into the house. Just as a long term precaution, to keep things from moving, which they do, and to relieve any kind of stress on the actual structure, where the break/switch is.
Job Well Done, young lady. Speaking as an old, arthritic master hasbeen, I see that there is some padding on that palm nailer, if its not enough, i recommend adding a bandana. Those damn nailers will hurt you, in the long term. Love your channel. You're doing a fine job.
Presumably Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) lumber is dry enough. But my moisture meter showed the KDAT I bought at Home Depot had 36%. The can of deck stain said to use it on 15% wood.
April, what are you thoughts regarding "bark side out" I noticed a couple of treads where the bark side was facing down. Are you not concerned with cupping as the PT boards dry??
That palm nailer though! Very neat! Thank you for this video. Makes the task of taking on a staircase build less daunting after watching your videos. I'll be prepared and, well, with a little luck, my math will work out on the first try. 😂 Awesome video April!
Looks great! Wow... so how many more years do you think you have on the deck? Are you planning to disassemble the upper stairs or support them during the deck rebuild?
When carving stringers on a CNC router a clearance hole is carved in the corner the rise and runs. I would do this by hand as a round hole does not weaken wood like a square corner.
April, need advise. I have a weird woodshop area with a loft for wood storage. Have a ladder up to it which I terrible and I am getting to old to take the chance. Want to build a stairs in a 95" depth and 105" height to floor of loft, 2x8 stringer on flooring. How do I calculate to make stairs? Do I put a platform two or so steps and then turn 90 degrees like your example here? Don't need the platform for any other reason. Just trying to do what I need in a corner of the barn to conserve floor space for woodshop. 7" rise and 6" run? I'm lost. Please help or point me into right direction.
Not sure I understand the full benefit of the Postsaver sleeves with out also sealing up the bottom end grain of the post. Seems to me the post will just wick up moisture from the end of the post.
I haven't used the sleeves but based on my experience, posts tend rot out in the top foot or so below the ground. Most likely rain water either pools at the surface or penetrates a few inches to a foot into the ground. Yes the end will still absorb some moisture, but if you've installed gravel to help with drainage and then cemented around the post, it should be minimal or no worse than the exposed ends above ground. The Postsaver sleeve then protects the most vulnerable portion of the wood. Postsaver's website has information about this as well: www.postsaver.com/products/pro-sleeve-fence-post-protection/
One thing I must have missed: how did you attach the bottom of the top flight stringers to the landing platform? Seems like that would require some serious hardware, because it would have to carry the entire weight of the top flight on the side of the platform framing.
Is there a easy way to add a stringer in the center of existing open steps. Or what’s the best way to strengthen the center of the steps, they’re in good repair
Aloha, April. A question about the Post Saver product (which I’ve never seen before - thank you!) ... How come the bottom few inches of the post (below the Post Saver sleeve) are left bare? Won’t that part rot out over time? I’ve got a lot of fences to build in a wet environment, so any thoughts would be very much appreciated ☺️
April, you and your crew did an awesome job building your new stairs. Your new stairs are "Rock Solid" (built on rock) which I'm sure will last the test of time very well. I would say at least 50+ years, since you used all treated materials, did your research, and built it very strong (Strong Ties). See what I did there...lol. ;)
like my old house. HUGE 800 sqft deck, not a single thing done with PT wood and no above ground footers so all the posts just sat to the frost line. And they did this everywhere on the house, front porch included.
Been there. Done that. Although, in my case, it was only 1 story and the posts were just toe nailed into the side of the stringers. They DID use PT posts and ballusters and then used a PT 2x4 for a railing which is NOT to code! There were only 6 nails supporting the entire thing.
Im surprised you don't have some sort of worklight you could have brought out. I just use some of those simple clamp on lights and keep working. I would also have recommended that you use some construction adhesive on the treads. I always cover mine and joist tops on decks with sealant tape. This will prolong the life of the joists considerably. The pecan looks like a good color choice..
Spend the $200 for an auto-leveling line laser. Preferably in green. It makes work faster, easier and more Accurate. Still use strings, but spirit levels are becoming obsolete in the construction industry. Friendly FYI. Love the videos
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
man i've worked in construction, and some of the wild shit you see hold houses and decks together after you demo it is crazy.
Been watching you a long time!
From someone who never used a power tool, to owning your own business, you've come a long way!
Whoa, don't know why but you building stairs is one of the most satisfying things ever! 😁
Nice touch explaining building code for the top rail on the hand railing.
I agree with a miter saw station! I do the same thing for every job! From decks to siding to trim inside. Great job and good work!
Nice use of tools. Would suggest for Northeast climates to use deck tape for under tread wood on wood to prevent underside rot and get longer life. In TX likely not an issue. You make great projects and tutorials.
I built my first set of stairs and a ramp for a shed a couple months ago with the help of your videos. Thanks.
Great video April! It was wonderful to hear your mama in the end. I miss her in your videos! 😊
You did fantastic work, April! Thank you for sharing the Fence Armor lineup, glad we could help with this build.
All the builders in here are so lucky! I miss working like this.
Stain & Seal Experts Deck Stain and sealer looks nice
Nice work i do this daily on metal but had no idea on how to make it on wood …thanks a lot!!!
Wonderful episode. Have missed your educational efforts
So Proud of you, setting an admiral example, regarding safety
APRIL you truly LEAD by example
Keep up the good work in 2021
The quality of these videos is amazing
I love you attention to detail and knowledge of great products. The hanger brackets are genius! Thanks for sharing.
Ah my lovely wife and I went through that wonderful post setting process for our shed as well. Good job you two working together without poking each other in the eye!
Great job! Some LED Solar Lights might be a bonus, if you use the steps at night?
Thanks for the Stain and Seal endorsement. I’ve been using One-Time stain and sealer and it’s costly ($85 a gallon) and takes days to dry due to having to be UV treated in the sun. Couldn’t find drying times for this product, so I may contact company. Like the fact it’s low in VOC so I can apply in basement and ready to use when dry. Living in NY is getting cold now and shorter days cause longer curing time. Thanks again for another well explained and interesting project. 😉
Super work !. enjoy all of your videos ! I probably would have put your 4x4s on conic concrete stanchions, to insure that you will have no rot issues.
That's very beautiful. An extra idea , you can close the sides of first 10 steps of below the staircase with adding a door become a garden tool storage. Nice job
Nice rebuild on the stairs. I am glad to see you using American wood products. Lots of people are using IPE and other non-sustainable rainforest wood. Yeah, Ipe - most of it is 100+ years old and being installed in locations where it only lasts 20 years at most.
I like the site supervisors coming over to inspect your work. : )
Awesome!!! Looked like fun. No time change here in AZ
Wow great job April 👌
@ 12:14 ....thanks for mentioning your lack of code-compliant handrail....BUT, you can STILL INSTALL one that is GRIPPABLE...definitely a vital (sometimes literally) component to a proper staircase. You all did a great job on this project, though. Thanks for walking us through and sharing the details.
Good job April, looks great!
Great job you folks. It’s great to see well built sturdy stairs. They turned out great. Thanks for sharing with us, Fred.👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Love 💖 from Egypt April 💕
@11:47 beast mode activated! :) That post saver produce was really cool, never seen that before.
👍 correct
Did you let your Pressure Treated Lumber dry out before staining and sealing? Usually it takes roughly 3 months. Our PT wood we get here in Georgia is mostly wet and heavy.
Amazing video, April! Thanks for the mention!
Looks beautiful! Nice improvement
Impressive !~~. Love your videos & explanations....
Thank you! Glad you enjoy them. Thanks for watching.
Awesome job April! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
The video quality is amazing, it like looking through a window!
April always delivers awesome projects. This is no exception: real redhead...knows how to work a crowbar...a sawsall...and a propane torch...hubbs better make sure he stays on her good side.
I always look forward to your videos to see what cool thing you’ve worked on. I’m amazed those old stairs were still standing. That looked dangerous. I thought I heard you say the upper balcony was in equally bad shape. So I guess I’m curious from a build standpoint why you would repair the stairs first. If you are going to have to tear down the upper balcony won’t that mean your brand new staircase will need to be reattached to a new upper deck?
Also curious on choice of treated wood versus something like Trex for the treads as in your treehouse patio project. Given the Texas heat I would think maybe the trex would be more durable and lower maintenance. Just curious. Always trying to learn. Keep up the great work and these videos.
I love the place where you live. Texas seems to be very peaceful and nice to live. I live in France and we don't have this weather and this proximity to nature. By the way, very good job for the stairs. It will be far more robust than the old one, will last much longer and the look is definitely nicer.
Well done. Looks great.
My first video I saw of yours it was you building a staircase!!!
Real cool, great job April, Keep up the great work. I always enjoy your great videos. Reminds me of the stairs you help build a few years ago...
What a beautiful stair case.
Very nice.
I love your channel.
And I love carpentry.
And the wood.
Looks great April.... Like always !!
April you build alot cool stuff. Iv got questions from you. Could do some tool review,on one you like that most? Thanks keep awesome worn up.
Great job! Looking forward to the deck replacement.
Fantastic work, April! 😃
Beautiful stairs! And beautiful house as well! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
April, you're an inspiration!
I’ve been here since that first set of stairs💪🏻
beautiful set of stairs, thanks...
What a beautiful staircase! I loved the ending, waving in the dark with headlights! Great job everyone!
will you be adding post reinforcements to the top flight of stairs? great job! thanks!
Thats insane how shallow the posts holes were. I absolutely love the pecan color. 😍 this staircase came out great, which is not surprising seeing all the other videos that I've watched that you've done.
Great Work. #STAYSAFE #KEEPBUILDING
Doing that in 3 days is incredible!
I normally use the 7/11 formula for the stairs/stringers but they were all for out-of-city uses so I don't know if they were against code in town.
Another cool project and build video April, Your doing awesome! Thanks for sharing this one.
Great Job! If the stairs were poorly constructed, how's the decking?
She mentioned that the deck was built using the same methods as the stairs and would need to be addressed soon as well.
Awesome!..I love watching you work!!..Thanks for sharing...
those support posts you knocked over from the original stairs were terrifying
Looks good, shouldn't the pressure treated wood dry some before staining?
Re your comment about code and your choice to ignore. As you said check the code.
You will find that the handrails should extend one tread width +12" beyond the bottom of the stair. They don't end at the newel post.
Landings have guardrails not handrails and guard rails should be 42" tall.
The grip type hand rail can be added on brackets below the top of the handrail.
This next one gets a little technical and requires visualization. The first tread at the top of each run should be level to the landing. This allows the stringer to have full purchase to the header. Simpson has solved the problem with the connector that you used but if this was being built in steel the shop detailer would change the design to allow for a full welded connection. And let you know all about it! FYI Simpson makes a connector for this design also LSCZ. Their install drawings show the correct detail
And I also like the idea of the post anchors. I don't like putting wood in concrete. The concrete acts as a cup that holds water accelerating the rot process. Packing the hole with dry sand works really well as the dry sand expands when it gets damp securing the post. (this from Norm on TOH)
Great episode! One question tough, why dont you use a impact driver instead of a drill for screws? i find it abit more noisy yes, but the lack of tourqe on your wrist is worth it for me.
Hammer drill.
Great video and result! I'm very interested in that post saver wrap. I checked out the link and was amazed at how inexpensive they were. It appears in the video that you did not cover it all the way don to the end of the post. I remember you said it would be about 2" above ground but wondering why it wasn't double wrapped or something to ensure full coverage below ground. Hope I'm not missing anything here, thanks for posting.
Nice work as always April 👍🏼😬
What did you do for the very bottom of the wood post to keep that from degrading due to touching dirt at the bottom of the hole?
Hopefully there was a few inches of 3/4 " gravel at the bottom of the holes.
Wow, great job, it looks awesome.
Nice build!
Was any of the old wood worth keeping for scrap
Instead of Jacob latter it's Jacob stairs and thank you for showing tutorial on stairs because it helps please keep making more of these awesome videos
Thanks for watching. Glad you enjoyed it.
Was diagonal bracing not required on the midpoint landing? It would definitely cut down any sway. Code here is 8 feet before it's needed, but everyone has an opinion, and code has its own say.
ma'am, i noticed something that im curious about, when you put on that 2nd flight of stairs, i could be wrong but i think you butted the bottom of that to the landing side, why not just make the landing a little longer and sit the stair treads on the boards/surface? im no carpenter(except on paper, i build on paper for s&g's) but i would think they wouldnt be as strong mounted to the side as they would with the force of weight and gravity transferred with something underneath it.
Hidden under the "skirt" of the stairs, i'd add on the span that's connected to the house, two lengths of wire to keep it tensioned and pulled into the house. Just as a long term precaution, to keep things from moving, which they do, and to relieve any kind of stress on the actual structure, where the break/switch is.
Job Well Done, young lady. Speaking as an old, arthritic master hasbeen, I see that there is some padding on that palm nailer, if its not enough, i recommend adding a bandana. Those damn nailers will hurt you, in the long term. Love your channel. You're doing a fine job.
Looks amazing
How do you feel about posting anchors. I used some and were great. Post rot no problem just replace the post no hole to re-dig or waiting for concrete
I was always under the impression treated lumber should be dried for up to 6 months before staining/painting. Has this changed with newer stains?
Presumably Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) lumber is dry enough. But my moisture meter showed the KDAT I bought at Home Depot had 36%. The can of deck stain said to use it on 15% wood.
your correct its so much wrong with this build
April, what are you thoughts regarding "bark side out" I noticed a couple of treads where the bark side was facing down. Are you not concerned with cupping as the PT boards dry??
Gorgeous great job!
That palm nailer though! Very neat! Thank you for this video. Makes the task of taking on a staircase build less daunting after watching your videos. I'll be prepared and, well, with a little luck, my math will work out on the first try. 😂 Awesome video April!
Looks great! Wow... so how many more years do you think you have on the deck? Are you planning to disassemble the upper stairs or support them during the deck rebuild?
When carving stringers on a CNC router a clearance hole is carved in the corner the rise and runs. I would do this by hand as a round hole does not weaken wood like a square corner.
That's a great idea. You want to eliminate any moisture - dwelling points.
Beautiful job
April, need advise. I have a weird woodshop area with a loft for wood storage. Have a ladder up to it which I terrible and I am getting to old to take the chance. Want to build a stairs in a 95" depth and 105" height to floor of loft, 2x8 stringer on flooring. How do I calculate to make stairs? Do I put a platform two or so steps and then turn 90 degrees like your example here? Don't need the platform for any other reason. Just trying to do what I need in a corner of the barn to conserve floor space for woodshop. 7" rise and 6" run? I'm lost. Please help or point me into right direction.
Not sure I understand the full benefit of the Postsaver sleeves with out also sealing up the bottom end grain of the post. Seems to me the post will just wick up moisture from the end of the post.
I haven't used the sleeves but based on my experience, posts tend rot out in the top foot or so below the ground. Most likely rain water either pools at the surface or penetrates a few inches to a foot into the ground. Yes the end will still absorb some moisture, but if you've installed gravel to help with drainage and then cemented around the post, it should be minimal or no worse than the exposed ends above ground. The Postsaver sleeve then protects the most vulnerable portion of the wood.
Postsaver's website has information about this as well: www.postsaver.com/products/pro-sleeve-fence-post-protection/
Last a decade? Well I certainly hope so! My deck is going on 30 years and it is still as sound as the day I built it!
I always use deck screws and lag bolts. Just makes for better construction that won't back out.
One thing I must have missed: how did you attach the bottom of the top flight stringers to the landing platform? Seems like that would require some serious hardware, because it would have to carry the entire weight of the top flight on the side of the platform framing.
Q: why didn't you stain the inside of the stringers? Is it because the wood is already treated and they won't be seen, or something else?
Is there a easy way to add a stringer in the center of existing open steps. Or what’s the best way to strengthen the center of the steps, they’re in good repair
Did I see Mama staining in the background?
Great job, once again.
Take Care and God Bless
Aloha, April. A question about the Post Saver product (which I’ve never seen before - thank you!) ... How come the bottom few inches of the post (below the Post Saver sleeve) are left bare? Won’t that part rot out over time? I’ve got a lot of fences to build in a wet environment, so any thoughts would be very much appreciated ☺️
the posts need to 'breathe." fully "sealed" posts or posts poured into concrete will rot faster.
@@ryan-ee4fd thank you, Ryan 👍
April, you and your crew did an awesome job building your new stairs. Your new stairs are "Rock Solid" (built on rock) which I'm sure will last the test of time very well. I would say at least 50+ years, since you used all treated materials, did your research, and built it very strong (Strong Ties). See what I did there...lol. ;)
Awesome! looks fantastic!
Awesome job! And YES, it’s the best time to work outside in Texas...Lol
🙏🤝🤝🤝🇮🇩☕😟
like my old house. HUGE 800 sqft deck, not a single thing done with PT wood and no above ground footers so all the posts just sat to the frost line. And they did this everywhere on the house, front porch included.
Been there. Done that. Although, in my case, it was only 1 story and the posts were just toe nailed into the side of the stringers. They DID use PT posts and ballusters and then used a PT 2x4 for a railing which is NOT to code! There were only 6 nails supporting the entire thing.
Im surprised you don't have some sort of worklight you could have brought out. I just use some of those simple clamp on lights and keep working. I would also have recommended that you use some construction adhesive on the treads. I always cover mine and joist tops on decks with sealant tape. This will prolong the life of the joists considerably. The pecan looks like a good color choice..
Spend the $200 for an auto-leveling line laser. Preferably in green. It makes work faster, easier and more Accurate. Still use strings, but spirit levels are becoming obsolete in the construction industry. Friendly FYI. Love the videos
Less than 4” between the spindles is also required in the triangle of space between the tread, riser, and bottom of the railing.
The code says a 6” ball should not fit through there.