Surfing a Firing French Beach Break (Intermediate Surfer POV)

Perfect waves on this French beach break! Swell built up through the afternoon and the locals all enjoyed the evening glass out. Wasn't a good day for me but happy to be out there and see the locals rip!
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Picture-perfect waves, ridden by absolute shredders are everywhere these days. Now let’s be real, most of us did not grow up surfing and do not live in Hawaï. This channel is about sharing what surfing is really like for the average person.
I started surfing at 25 and live in France, so my reality involves a lot of subpar conditions, cold water and sometimes, when the stars align, some epic waves. But be it small, choppy or pumping, I don’t care. As long as I can drop in and do a turn, I am out there!
Shot on the DJI Osmo Action 4, 2.7K (4:3) at 60FPS, with RockSteady.
Board : Olaïan Shortboard 900, 5'10", 30L.
Location : South West France

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