Hi Randy. Is there power to the coil when the keys on? It could be wired wrong, or backwards. Positive on coil is hot from switch. Negative on coil is hot to distributor module, negative from module to engine or body ground. MGB BABY!!
Just making sure you're 100% on this. As the original had + to both sides of the dizzy, and it ran. Also, the instructions with the module said from the dizzy, red wire to + coil, and black wire from dizzy to - on coil.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds You probably meant to say power on both sides of the coil with the ignition switch on, the positive power will flow thru the coil with the leads attached giving you positive power on both sides of the coil. Make sure the lead hooked up to the positive side of the coil from the wiring harness of the car has power with the ignition switch turned to run.
Check for a trigger signal from the ignition module, just hook up a test light to the negative side of the coil and a positive power supply and see if the light flashes when the engine is cranked, if it flashes then the module and pickup are functioning properly, if no flash then you have a bad module. Long term: install a Pertronix
@@garysmietan8537 *on compression stroke. Best way to check that is to see if both rocker arms are closed - so both valves (inlet and exhaust) are closed.
@@steveharleyfan you're correct but you don't need to take the valve cover off to see the rockets, too much work.... just remove plug #1 and crank engine, when psi is evident, that's compression stroke
Love your channel Randy. I have some “advice”, the more you address the haters the more they will persist. You don’t need to justify all of your actions! Yet again love the channel
Having owned several BMC products over the years l can relate to your current problem, l noticed that with your coil bracket mount you do not have a rubber sleeve around the coil to prevent the coil earthing via the mount bracket, if the coil is earthing through the mount this would explain your lack of spark l have made the same oversight in the past and learned to always ensure the coil was isolated from the mount hopefully this solves your issue, also the camera quality is miles ahead - cheers
See if you can draw a spark straight from the output of the coil while cranking. If you get spark, but none from spark plugs, you have rotor in wrong position. Keep at it. It's a great learning experience
Even though it is fighting you, I feel you appreciate the simplicity and easy access to all the components, unlike the cars of today with NO room to work!
Hi Randy, Greetings from over the pond . I fitted one of these electronic AM distributors in my 1959 A55II same B design series with the smaller 1489 cc (yours is the same just with a larger bore) in under 2 hours. My advantage is that I do know the history of my engine having owner the car for over 30 years. OK lets take you through some easy bits : that earth strap on the rocker cover is wrong, get rid of it, looks horrible and you shouldn't need it, there should be a big earth strap on the exhaust side at the bottom going from one of the g/box to engine bolts to the chassis rail to earth the engine block. Next lets check for that 180' possibility,. If you remove the rocker cover and look at the valves No1 should have both valves closed on the compression stroke, turn the engine (Clockwise from the front ) using the crank bolt until the valves are set, now look at where your rotor arm is pointing, that will be your No1. If its pointing up towards the cylinder head its right if pointing down towards the floor its 180' out. Don't panic it just means that who ever rebuilt this engine in the past put the distributor drive off the crank in the wrong way, to correct this involves removing / dismantling and re assembly of the engine. As your engine was running ok I'd leave it like this until next rebuild then correct it. So now you have No 1 the distributor rotates ANTI clockwise 1-3-4-2 . Whilst you have the engine set at TDC have a look at the timing marks on the front of the engine are they aligned (give or take to allow for adv/ ret) if they look about 180' out then the crank / camshaft were also assembled wrong. Turn the engine so No4 valves are closed, these marks will now align meaning that if you use a timing light later to adjust the timing later you will just need to connect it to No 4 not No 1. Now check you have the HT wires in the distributor cap correct, if yours is the correct Lucas side entry one then you need to carefully check, they enter at two levels 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 upper and lower levels, if it is 180' out you may find No1 lead too short & have to make up some new leads using HT wire and terminals (eBay). If using a generic top entry cap this should not be an issue and identifying each position is really simple. just remember ANTI clockwise !. 1-3-4-2 ! As previously advised these cars with the alternator are all -ve earth the earlier cars with the dynamo could be either depending on year or if they have been converted in order to fit a radio, very few cars in the UK had radios fitted as standard and all AM ones are -ve earth. I hope you have not tried to connect this system the other way just to check as you could well have blown the electronics in the new distributor. (Please say you haven't tried this ?). Oil in these engines should always be done with the engine warm, being 20/50 its thicker oil than modern oils and therefore needs to be warm to drain properly. The oil filter: you should always run an very oily finger around the rubber seal before screwing it to the filter housing this gives it a good seal & prevents it snagging as you tighten it and prevents it leaking, these engines by design use some oil but you still don't want it pouring on the floor, these engines run between 50 and 80 psi. That corrugated top hose is correct, it is designed so the hose can be compressed from either end when fitting don't be tempted to pull it tight its also designed to dampen / absorb the engine movement when accelerating so it doesn't rip off the radiator entry tube. Well ......... I hope all the above helps point you in the right direction .
The distributor rotor turns counter clockwise, 1342. There is an internal drive gear which may have been installed 180 degrees out which is why the the distributor was installed 180. I suggest you start over. Remove distributor. Find TDC on compression stroke.. Inspect internal drive gear and check that the offset is installed correctly. The internet will show you some pic's as to which way the offset should be. The drive gear is held in with 2 screws where the distributor shaft goes into the block. Reinstall everything.
The great thing about owning an MG, is the large number of clubs and enthusiasts, of the “marque”. Not only in the US but also the UK. Just go online to the many clubs. There are a lot of great folks, who will be very happy to give you advice. There is probably someone in the OKC area that would be more than willing to help you. If you just reach out, to the MG community. MGBs are great cars, and MG owner’s are awesome people, who not only love the cars, but our fellow enthusiasts. Personally I believe your timing is 180 degrees out. Firing order is 1,3,4,2, clockwise.
Randy that Sony A7C camera is GREAT.Hardly went out of focus when the oil pan attacked it. I see you have some great advice on the dissy. You will get it cracken Cheers mate great content Kevin.
Hi Randy. Check all your fuses, also there is two relays, the one nearest the bulk head is your ignition relay it should kick in when starting. I also am having problems with my 78 MG B !
the second cam was much better i thought, also to get them spots up on the floor,use oil dry,not cat litter,cut a thick piece of plywood just bigger than your feet,then do the twist on the oil dry on the spots ,may take a time or two since you didnt do it right away.
I’ve had great success using plain Dawn dish soap with a 24 hour soak then scrubbing and rinsing with a lot of water to get various (mostly oil and transmission fluid) stains out of the concrete driveway at a rental house. Ill try your oil dry technique next time, thank you.
Randy, I love what you are doing with the MG. Can you please find the time to do a thorough degreasing and pressure washing of the engine bay. Maybe put on a fresh coat of paint on a few of the parts like the valve cover and such. While you’re at it you might want to adjust the valves to improve the performance a bit and reduce the clatter a little.
I'm assuming the ignition module is an Accuspark. I've never fitted one but I checked their website and there is a troubleshooting guide on there. They do recommend taking off any radio suppression capacitors which I think you said were fitted.
The ignition system should be simplicity itself. The distributor does two jobs. It breaks the contact points using the cam driven by the gear from the engine. the breaking of the points interrupts a voltage on the primary of the coil collapsing the magnetic field causes a large voltage in the secondary and 2nd delivering the HT spark which goes back to the distributor cap and then to spark plugs. The electronic ignition system is identical apart from the points are replaced by an electronic switch. Here I think it is a hall effect switch. A magnet rotates on the distributor shaft and each time it passes the hall sensor it will interrupt the 12v to the coil. Where are the magnets? I didn't see any. The sensor has to switch four times per rotation. Just check the 12v is going on and off to the coil as you turn the engine/rotor. This is all you need. There is no reason to worry about positive or negative earth systems. All cars have been negative earth for the last seventy years. MGB included. In other words don't worry about earthing...Or er..do worry about earthing and make sure it is good. So as long as the 12v is switched on the coil primary - you WILL have spark. You could put back the hammered to death one. What damage did it sustain? They are pretty sturdy things. If it rotates without a wobble and the advance is still working it should be OK.
I never saw you set damper to timing mark for TDC. after that install distributer with rotor pointing to number one cylinder. with timing light hooked up rotate distributor slowly to get a flash from lite. that is close should start then final adjust with light.
As for me - the phone quality is absolutely adequate and comparing the good quality of the phone and very good quality of the dedicated camera - there is no need to spend extra especially for the type of content that you provide. In other words - phone video quality for the automobile content is absolutely fine. In anyway - content is that one that makes the value which you have. Video quality comes only comes next.
Randy Start from the beginning with the timing marks on the crankshaft and take the #1 spark plug out, put long screwdriver in the cylinder to find TDC. See where the rotor ends up. You will also need to take the valve cover off. This let you know if you are 180 out. Good luck
Randy, my eyes and ears are perfectly fine with the iPhone. Honestly a few of the channels I watch have invested heavily in video and audio tech and to be honest I cannot really say “Wow! That is so much better”. I tune in for your content, your great automobile “bedside manner” and your knowledge.
I hope it helps but the distributor being 180 out wouldn't stop the body coming out of the housing. You just got lucky with the freeing off fluids! The offset keyway you saw fits into a driveshaft that is driven off the cam by skew gears. If you take out the distributor you can see the end of the driveshaft. Its has a thread in the centre to screw a bolt in to pull it out if necessary. Sounds obvious but that means the driveshaft can be fitted any way on the camshaft. This guy explains it all very well: th-cam.com/video/gs3pNASKiBc/w-d-xo.html Sometimes you have to go back to basics and never assume someone else did it right or how they did it wrong. Also double check your wiring and that you have power going to the coil.
I just watch your videos on my little T-Mobile Revelry phone, but I could still tell that your Sony delivered clearer video and you are able to focus in for close-ups much faster than with the iPhone. Can't wait to see how the Sony does on those overcast days at Copart.
On my 1972 MGB there are two leads that come out of the wiring harness near the back of the alternator. One is white and one is white with a black tracer. The secornd one already had the female connector for the black off the electronic distributor. The white wire connects up to the positive side of the coil. If either of these are not connected the car will crank but NOT fire
Bud. First thing i noticed you say was the wrong firing order as you Said clockwise wich is the opposite to how its gonna be. It should be as you Said but ANTI clockwise bud.So 1342 anticlockwise with nr1 at roughly 1-2oclock. Also the rotor as you said was first 180degrees wrong BUT aslong as you put the cables after how the rotor sits thats fine anyways. So just switch your cables to the right spark plugs and you will be fine.Now i Will be keeping up celebrating my 40th birthday so cheers from Sweden😀
You will likely not like my bit of advice. Assuming the mounting plate for the electronic ignition hasn't been altered I'd pull the dizzy and install a set of points/ condenser confirm top dead center by bringing number #1 piston to top of cylinder and timing marks on the dampener pulley align. Reinstall the distributor. Best of luck.
To be honest your go pro footage and sound quality always impresed me . i also went down the mirrorless route and now regret it .send the sony back if you can man the quality doesnt look super impresive for the 3k its costing. keep the videos coming man lovin the clasic cars
The quality is great. The MG will run, you just need to give her some love. She must nit have been cared for as much as needed. You have come a long way since UberMan.
Black wire from module to - side of coil, red wire from module to + side of coil. Start/on from ignition switch to + side of coil. The old points used a resistor wire or a ballast resistor from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil to cut the voltage down to prevent the points from burning up. This resistor wire must be replaced with a standard wire or removal of the ballast, whichever one you have, for the Pertronix module to function properly.
thanks for being so thoughtful man. im new to all this so i cant provide any advice on the car except maybe the ground isnt right. the fight is what makes it all worth it. keep pushin!!
Hi Randy, the iPhone footage was good enough sharp and bright pictures whit good sound. Sony images were little bit darker because of the 2.8 lens... The wide angle is great. In my opinion it's not 4 grand worth. Think about it. Greetings from Germany
The focus was a lot better, picture might have been a little better and the sound , sounded as if it had a little more bass on it. That was a lot of money, whoaaaaa.
If the car is positive ground you need a positive ground distributor, if the car is neg, then u need a neg ground distributor. I have a 1959 Hillman minx which was pos grn, converted to neg..I was reading on getting a new distributor and they say I need to order a distributor for what the car is, neg or pos. Hope that helps
YOU HAVE TO LOVE THE GREMLINS ON AN MG!!! ALWAYS SOMETHING YOU WILL BECOME A GOOD MECHANIC BY THE TIME YOUR DONE 👍👍 KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK I THINK YOU. NEW CAMERA IS GREAT!!! VERY CLEAR👍👍👍AND ITS A WRITE OFF 😁😁😁
Randy, Have you Check to see the distributor shaft is being driven. The distributor drive to the cam on some of these MGB's is overly complicated, and you can lose distributor drive.
Put the engine number one cylinder on top dead centre on compression stroke, check position on pulley. Take off distributor cap check which cap point rotor is facing. Put that number one HT lead into that point, then put number 3 lead into next point of the cap, in a clockwise rotation, then number 4 HT lead into next point, number 2 HT lead into the last point. Refit the cap, remove central HT lead from Distributor cap, leave lead connected into the coil, turn ign on have someone turn engine over on starter motor, hold the HT lead just off some good Earth point on the phone, checking for spark. If you have spark there, plug Coil lead back into Distributor central, engine should fire up. MGB 1975 is negative earth, good luck.
Enjoyed the video. Are you planning to return the lens? Did the incorrect installation of the old distributor cause damage to the keyways? Does the ‘new’ distributor have a Pertronix Ignitor kit installed in it? Are you using it with a ballast resistor or connecting it directly to the positive on the coil (sorry I think I missed that in the video). What is the resistance of your coils? Measured on the low voltage side, from positive to negative? Is the magnetic/ Hall effect sensor working? Using your ohm /multi meter does it break the continuity between the positive and negative wires? You could also use a test light clipped in between the positive wire and battery or the negative side and the ground. Then turn the distributor by hand or by having someone crank it. I’m in the states and so is Pertronix but their Aussie website says under troubleshooting that it’s not the igniter (module) it’s something else. If it’s not a Pertronix brand... perhaps it’s worth keeping the distributor and buying a different brand module? Pertronix is in San Dimas California 909-599-5955 Pertronix website: pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-lu-147a-ignitor-lucas-4-cyl?variant=31797240037412
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds If it’s one of the True Spark units, I wasn’t able to figure out who makes them, however, SCP Sports Car Parts in TN seem to sell a lot of their products. The pickup or module is about $20 on their website. Their phone number is 865-659-4386 www.sportscarpartsltd.com/True-Spark-Electronic-Ignition-Distributor-Replacement-Pick-Up-Module_p_1023.html In any case, it occurred to me that the module may need a 1.5 ohm load or higher to work properly. You should be able to wire the coil inline if needed if that is the case or the car may have had a ballast resistor installed initially. However, I think it is still worth testing to determine if it is working. If it is not, then it’s about deciding what you want to do and if they are going to give you a bunch of grief to replace it. A well regarded distributor guy in the English car world is Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors in Shakopee MN 612-804-5543 if you drop him an email, he is likely to respond with some helpful information like the intended gap. as someone else suggested - check that the wires are lined up with the pistons hitting TDC. Also worth checking that the trigger on the rotating shaft in the distributor is near the center of the pickup. You may have to pop the rotor off. Like making sure points are open near TDC.
Prob not i shoot on my gal note 8 and it looks great i would not pay that for a cam no better qc the only vid ive seen a diff was the 4k vid you used on the merc
@@MauriceNL1 not that this one sorry and good eye that was the s3 i will put a link didnt want to do that on randys vids but per the topic i will th-cam.com/video/WgYbxnf9mkA/w-d-xo.html
Good plan on taking a break and thinking through the ignition on the MG. You are so close to having this thing sorted out. Also lots of good ideas in the comments so should be fixed probably before I can get this posted. On the new camera...hell yea theres a difference. With the iPhone I could see you and the cars really well. With the Sony, it looks like your shop is a green screen that you are sitting in front of. Ambassador content lets get it!!
Randy not fussed by which camera, but tripod mount is always provides a steadier picture than a selfie stick. If the background is moving too much video for many will become unwatchable. Hope you get the MGB running.
Had a buddy who swapped the 305 in his camaro with the 350 in his 85 3/4 ton had timing issue, turned out the distributor shaft was bent or gear was cocked so as we turned it over teeth skipped and timing was always off.
..don't quite understand....The distributor is keyed...it only fits in one direction...even if you turn the distributor body upside down, (the vacuum diaphragm will hit the starter or external oil cooler lines)...but it will still be keyed to the crank drive shaft in only one position?...
Hey Randy - Sony 100%, really good quality. Great vid, you're a brave man working on MG, I'm English and I'd run a mile from working on one 😂 thanks for the hard work man
Hi Randy. Is there power to the coil when the keys on? It could be wired wrong, or backwards. Positive on coil is hot from switch. Negative on coil is hot to distributor module, negative from module to engine or body ground. MGB BABY!!
Just making sure you're 100% on this. As the original had + to both sides of the dizzy, and it ran. Also, the instructions with the module said from the dizzy, red wire to + coil, and black wire from dizzy to - on coil.
It's got to have a positive feed from the switch to run
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds You probably meant to say power on both sides of the coil with the ignition switch on, the positive power will flow thru the coil with the leads attached giving you positive power on both sides of the coil. Make sure the lead hooked up to the positive side of the coil from the wiring harness of the car has power with the ignition switch turned to run.
Check for a trigger signal from the ignition module, just hook up a test light to the negative side of the coil and a positive power supply and see if the light flashes when the engine is cranked, if it flashes then the module and pickup are functioning properly, if no flash then you have a bad module.
Long term: install a Pertronix
Will do! Thank you!
Cylinder #1 to TDC and make sure rotor points to plug wire #1 on cap.
@@garysmietan8537 *on compression stroke. Best way to check that is to see if both rocker arms are closed - so both valves (inlet and exhaust) are closed.
@@steveharleyfan you're correct but you don't need to take the valve cover off to see the rockets, too much work.... just remove plug #1 and crank engine, when psi is evident, that's compression stroke
@@garysmietan8537 thats what my buddy taught me but he had me put a thumb over plug hole
Love your channel Randy. I have some “advice”, the more you address the haters the more they will persist. You don’t need to justify all of your actions! Yet again love the channel
I agree
None of the MGs with an alternator were positive ground. None of the MGs with a single battery box were positive ground.
Having owned several BMC products over the years l can relate to your current problem, l noticed that with your coil bracket mount you do not have a rubber sleeve around the coil to prevent the coil earthing via the mount bracket, if the coil is earthing through the mount this would explain your lack of spark l have made the same oversight in the past and learned to always ensure the coil was isolated from the mount hopefully this solves your issue, also the camera quality is miles ahead - cheers
The new camera is like being there with you. There is no expense spared for your followers. Thank You.
*Comment below 1st half recorded on my iPhone 11 Pro 2nd half recorded on my new Sony A7C with the wrong lens lol Sony 10-18mm f/4.*
The new quality with the Sony is so much better than the gopro, good luck sorting the electrical issue with the MGB 👍🏻
Personally I think the iPhone is better than a 3k system but anyways I can't even afford a iPhone GOD DAMN 6
iPhone 👍🏽
The Sony is better
Sony is much better!
See if you can draw a spark straight from the output of the coil while cranking. If you get spark, but none from spark plugs, you have rotor in wrong position. Keep at it. It's a great learning experience
Damn I was gonna say the new cameras are looking good audio was good. Then you say your on your phone... sooo take that however haha.
LOL
GOD DAMN IT Randy this quality is CRISP 👌👌👌👌👌👌
Guno squad use an iPhone for a reason, it works great and it looks way better in my opinion
Even though it is fighting you, I feel you appreciate the simplicity and easy access to all the components, unlike the cars of today with NO room to work!
I love that new camera, the one with the ultra wide view and that crazy fast zoom!
"Ready for my close up Mr Demil" You frustrated camera man you! Appreciate all you do Randy cheers!
To be honest randy I couldn’t tell your phone was clear as the camera
Hi Randy, Greetings from over the pond . I fitted one of these electronic AM distributors in my 1959 A55II same B design series with the smaller 1489 cc (yours is the same just with a larger bore) in under 2 hours. My advantage is that I do know the history of my engine having owner the car for over 30 years.
OK lets take you through some easy bits : that earth strap on the rocker cover is wrong, get rid of it, looks horrible and you shouldn't need it, there should be a big earth strap on the exhaust side at the bottom going from one of the g/box to engine bolts to the chassis rail to earth the engine block.
Next lets check for that 180' possibility,. If you remove the rocker cover and look at the valves No1 should have both valves closed on the compression stroke, turn the engine (Clockwise from the front ) using the crank bolt until the valves are set, now look at where your rotor arm is pointing, that will be your No1. If its pointing up towards the cylinder head its right if pointing down towards the floor its 180' out. Don't panic it just means that who ever rebuilt this engine in the past put the distributor drive off the crank in the wrong way, to correct this involves removing / dismantling and re assembly of the engine. As your engine was running ok I'd leave it like this until next rebuild then correct it. So now you have No 1 the distributor rotates ANTI clockwise 1-3-4-2 . Whilst you have the engine set at TDC have a look at the timing marks on the front of the engine are they aligned (give or take to allow for adv/ ret) if they look about 180' out then the crank / camshaft were also assembled wrong. Turn the engine so No4 valves are closed, these marks will now align meaning that if you use a timing light later to adjust the timing later you will just need to connect it to No 4 not No 1.
Now check you have the HT wires in the distributor cap correct, if yours is the correct Lucas side entry one then you need to carefully check, they enter at two levels 1 & 2 and 3 & 4 upper and lower levels, if it is 180' out you may find No1 lead too short & have to make up some new leads using HT wire and terminals (eBay). If using a generic top entry cap this should not be an issue and identifying each position is really simple. just remember ANTI clockwise !. 1-3-4-2 !
As previously advised these cars with the alternator are all -ve earth the earlier cars with the dynamo could be either depending on year or if they have been converted in order to fit a radio, very few cars in the UK had radios fitted as standard and all AM ones are -ve earth. I hope you have not tried to connect this system the other way just to check as you could well have blown the electronics in the new distributor. (Please say you haven't tried this ?).
Oil in these engines should always be done with the engine warm, being 20/50 its thicker oil than modern oils and therefore needs to be warm to drain properly. The oil filter: you should always run an very oily finger around the rubber seal before screwing it to the filter housing this gives it a good seal & prevents it snagging as you tighten it and prevents it leaking, these engines by design use some oil but you still don't want it pouring on the floor, these engines run between 50 and 80 psi.
That corrugated top hose is correct, it is designed so the hose can be compressed from either end when fitting don't be tempted to pull it tight its also designed to dampen / absorb the engine movement when accelerating so it doesn't rip off the radiator entry tube.
Well ......... I hope all the above helps point you in the right direction .
The distributor rotor turns counter clockwise, 1342.
There is an internal drive gear which may have been installed 180 degrees out which is why the the distributor was installed 180.
I suggest you start over.
Remove distributor.
Find TDC on compression stroke..
Inspect internal drive gear and check that the offset is installed correctly. The internet will show you some pic's as to which way the offset should be.
The drive gear is held in with 2 screws where the distributor shaft goes into the block.
Reinstall everything.
Audio and video was really good on both. Great quality! Good video. Keep it coming!
The great thing about owning an MG, is the large number of clubs and enthusiasts, of the “marque”. Not only in the US but also the UK. Just go online to the many clubs. There are a lot of great folks, who will be very happy to give you advice. There is probably someone in the OKC area that would be more than willing to help you. If you just reach out, to the MG community. MGBs are great cars, and MG owner’s are awesome people, who not only love the cars, but our fellow enthusiasts. Personally I believe your timing is 180 degrees out. Firing order is 1,3,4,2, clockwise.
Randy that Sony A7C camera is GREAT.Hardly went out of focus when the oil pan attacked it.
I see you have some great advice on the dissy.
You will get it cracken
Cheers mate great content
Kevin.
Thanks man!
Randy I love how quick the auto focus goes i really like that
The new camera is awesome! Way better than the iPhone and gopro, keep using it!
Video quality is great! And i got a feeling it’s something simple hopefully keep my fingers crossed!
Hi Randy. Check all your fuses, also there is two relays, the one nearest the bulk head is your ignition relay it should kick in when starting. I also am having problems with my 78 MG B !
the second cam was much better i thought, also to get them spots up on the floor,use oil dry,not cat litter,cut a thick piece of plywood just bigger than your feet,then do the twist on the oil dry on the spots ,may take a time or two since you didnt do it right away.
I’ve had great success using plain Dawn dish soap with a 24 hour soak then scrubbing and rinsing with a lot of water to get various (mostly oil and transmission fluid) stains out of the concrete driveway at a rental house.
Ill try your oil dry technique next time, thank you.
The new camera look much better and stays in focus
Randy, I love what you are doing with the MG. Can you please find the time to do a thorough degreasing and pressure washing of the engine bay. Maybe put on a fresh coat of paint on a few of the parts like the valve cover and such. While you’re at it you might want to adjust the valves to improve the performance a bit and reduce the clatter a little.
I'm assuming the ignition module is an Accuspark. I've never fitted one but I checked their website and there is a troubleshooting guide on there. They do recommend taking off any radio suppression capacitors which I think you said were fitted.
The ignition system should be simplicity itself. The distributor does two jobs. It breaks the contact points using the cam driven by the gear from the engine. the breaking of the points interrupts a voltage on the primary of the coil collapsing the magnetic field causes a large voltage in the secondary and 2nd delivering the HT spark which goes back to the distributor cap and then to spark plugs.
The electronic ignition system is identical apart from the points are replaced by an electronic switch. Here I think it is a hall effect switch. A magnet rotates on the distributor shaft and each time it passes the hall sensor it will interrupt the 12v to the coil. Where are the magnets? I didn't see any. The sensor has to switch four times per rotation. Just check the 12v is going on and off to the coil as you turn the engine/rotor. This is all you need. There is no reason to worry about positive or negative earth systems. All cars have been negative earth for the last seventy years. MGB included. In other words don't worry about earthing...Or er..do worry about earthing and make sure it is good. So as long as the 12v is switched on the coil primary - you WILL have spark.
You could put back the hammered to death one. What damage did it sustain? They are pretty sturdy things. If it rotates without a wobble and the advance is still working it should be OK.
Great picture quality Randy
The quality difference with the new Sony is very noticeable, not that the iPhone was terrible, but you can tell the Sony is just on a different level.
I never saw you set damper to timing mark for TDC. after that install distributer with rotor pointing to number one cylinder. with timing light hooked up rotate distributor slowly to get a flash from lite. that is close should start then final adjust with light.
As for me - the phone quality is absolutely adequate and comparing the good quality of the phone and very good quality of the dedicated camera - there is no need to spend extra especially for the type of content that you provide. In other words - phone video quality for the automobile content is absolutely fine. In anyway - content is that one that makes the value which you have. Video quality comes only comes next.
Sony was clearer. That autofocus is amazing.
the audio is a lot better & the music is the same volume now
hey keep up the good work
Randy
Start from the beginning with the timing marks on the crankshaft and take the #1 spark plug out, put long screwdriver in the cylinder to find TDC. See where the rotor ends up. You will also need to take the valve cover off. This let you know if you are 180 out. Good luck
Randy, my eyes and ears are perfectly fine with the iPhone. Honestly a few of the channels I watch have invested heavily in video and audio tech and to be honest I cannot really say “Wow! That is so much better”. I tune in for your content, your great automobile “bedside manner” and your knowledge.
I hope it helps but the distributor being 180 out wouldn't stop the body coming out of the housing. You just got lucky with the freeing off fluids!
The offset keyway you saw fits into a driveshaft that is driven off the cam by skew gears. If you take out the distributor you can see the end of the driveshaft. Its has a thread in the centre to screw a bolt in to pull it out if necessary. Sounds obvious but that means the driveshaft can be fitted any way on the camshaft.
This guy explains it all very well:
th-cam.com/video/gs3pNASKiBc/w-d-xo.html
Sometimes you have to go back to basics and never assume someone else did it right or how they did it wrong. Also double check your wiring and that you have power going to the coil.
Yes I believe that you can see a difference in quality.. not massive, but definately a difference.. sound quality seemed to improve also..
It should have a motor ground. Have you checked that
I just watch your videos on my little T-Mobile Revelry phone, but I could still tell that your Sony delivered clearer video and you are able to focus in for close-ups much faster than with the iPhone. Can't wait to see how the Sony does on those overcast days at Copart.
whats good fam loving the content bro
The video look good 👍 Thanks for all the great video's
On my 1972 MGB there are two leads that come out of the wiring harness near the back of the alternator. One is white and one is white with a black tracer. The secornd one already had the female connector for the black off the electronic distributor. The white wire connects up to the positive side of the coil. If either of these are not connected the car will crank but NOT fire
keep up the good work And your videos are the best
Huge difference in quality. Better now
Bud.
First thing i noticed you say was the wrong firing order as you Said clockwise wich is the opposite to how its gonna be.
It should be as you Said but ANTI clockwise bud.So 1342 anticlockwise with nr1 at roughly 1-2oclock.
Also the rotor as you said was first 180degrees wrong BUT aslong as you put the cables after how the rotor sits thats fine anyways.
So just switch your cables to the right spark plugs and you will be fine.Now i Will be keeping up celebrating my 40th birthday so cheers from Sweden😀
Audio and video is great for me....great video as always Randy
You will likely not like my bit of advice. Assuming the mounting plate for the electronic ignition hasn't been altered I'd pull the dizzy and install a set of points/ condenser confirm top dead center by bringing number #1 piston to top of cylinder and timing marks on the dampener pulley align. Reinstall the distributor. Best of luck.
Oh wow! The clarity is just wow but on the Sony cam it shows if I were watching a movie
A distributor installed upside down wow. Sony's the way to go Looks Awsome
Your phone recorded clear and sound also clear . The new camera not worth the 4 grand when your phone did a great job!
To be honest your go pro footage and sound quality always impresed me . i also went down the mirrorless route and now regret it .send the sony back if you can man the quality doesnt look super impresive for the 3k its costing. keep the videos coming man lovin the clasic cars
The quality is great. The MG will run, you just need to give her some love. She must nit have been cared for as much as needed. You have come a long way since UberMan.
The video quality is better on the Sony but it's not a big difference for me
Black wire from module to - side of coil, red wire from module to + side of coil. Start/on from ignition switch to + side of coil. The old points used a resistor wire or a ballast resistor from the ignition switch to the + side of the coil to cut the voltage down to prevent the points from burning up. This resistor wire must be replaced with a standard wire or removal of the ballast, whichever one you have, for the Pertronix module to function properly.
Thank you, we no longer are using a ballast resistor.
Hey Randy. I'm no expert but I think you need power from the alternator to the coil. It looks like a closed loop on the module.
The second half was very good on video and sound . I enjoyed your video even when you had different issue showing you Cared what your viewer see .
This video has great quality. Auto focus was great!!
Great job! I can’t wait to see it finished! ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
The new camera is the best ever so I can't wait to see the new lens I'm sure it will be spectacular.
thanks for being so thoughtful man. im new to all this so i cant provide any advice on the car except maybe the ground isnt right. the fight is what makes it all worth it. keep pushin!!
sony for the win randy great job man
Hi Randy, the iPhone footage was good enough sharp and bright pictures whit good sound.
Sony images were little bit darker because of the 2.8 lens... The wide angle is great. In my opinion it's not 4 grand worth. Think about it.
Greetings from Germany
I think footage in the garage is good with the iPhone, but on the walk-around it didn't look the best.
Love the Sony quality.
You have the best resolution and Video quality trust me,Liked
The focus was a lot better, picture might have been a little better and the sound , sounded as if it had a little more bass on it. That was a lot of money, whoaaaaa.
JUST GREAT VIDEO keep them coming, Both cameras look great to me?👍❤️🚘
The red coil wire you fitted looks like the wrong thickness don't think it will take the amps required of it
If the car is positive ground you need a positive ground distributor, if the car is neg, then u need a neg ground distributor. I have a 1959 Hillman minx which was pos grn, converted to neg..I was reading on getting a new distributor and they say I need to order a distributor for what the car is, neg or pos. Hope that helps
YOU HAVE TO LOVE THE GREMLINS ON AN MG!!! ALWAYS SOMETHING YOU WILL BECOME A GOOD MECHANIC BY THE TIME YOUR DONE 👍👍 KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK I THINK YOU. NEW CAMERA IS GREAT!!! VERY CLEAR👍👍👍AND ITS A WRITE OFF 😁😁😁
lucas is the prince of darkness...
Video quality is good /much better.
Randy, Have you Check to see the distributor shaft is being driven. The distributor drive to the cam on some of these MGB's is overly complicated, and you can lose distributor drive.
Nice clean and clear video, new stuff works well .
everything looks and sounds great Randy !
Put the engine number one cylinder on top dead centre on compression stroke, check position on pulley. Take off distributor cap check which cap point rotor is facing. Put that number one HT lead into that point, then put number 3 lead into next point of the cap, in a clockwise rotation, then number 4 HT lead into next point, number 2 HT lead into the last point. Refit the cap, remove central HT lead from Distributor cap, leave lead connected into the coil, turn ign on have someone turn engine over on starter motor, hold the HT lead just off some good Earth point on the phone, checking for spark.
If you have spark there, plug Coil lead back into Distributor central, engine should fire up.
MGB 1975 is negative earth, good luck.
I like the iPhone 11 camera to be honest
Looks like you have the cold main feed from coil to centre of distributor is not connected , it’s going to the other coil.
check wires to coil for continuity test alternator output
Hi Randy,
The new video quality is great.
Enjoyed the video. Are you planning to return the lens? Did the incorrect installation of the old distributor cause damage to the keyways?
Does the ‘new’ distributor have a Pertronix Ignitor kit installed in it? Are you using it with a ballast resistor or connecting it directly to the positive on the coil (sorry I think I missed that in the video). What is the resistance of your coils? Measured on the low voltage side, from positive to negative? Is the magnetic/ Hall effect sensor working? Using your ohm /multi meter does it break the continuity between the positive and negative wires? You could also use a test light clipped in between the positive wire and battery or the negative side and the ground. Then turn the distributor by hand or by having someone crank it.
I’m in the states and so is Pertronix but their Aussie website says under troubleshooting that it’s not the igniter (module) it’s something else. If it’s not a Pertronix brand... perhaps it’s worth keeping the distributor and buying a different brand module?
Pertronix is in San Dimas California 909-599-5955
Pertronix website: pertronixbrands.com/products/pertronix-lu-147a-ignitor-lucas-4-cyl?variant=31797240037412
I will for sure check this out. I need to do more testing.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds If it’s one of the True Spark units, I wasn’t able to figure out who makes them, however, SCP Sports Car Parts in TN seem to sell a lot of their products. The pickup or module is about $20 on their website.
Their phone number is 865-659-4386
www.sportscarpartsltd.com/True-Spark-Electronic-Ignition-Distributor-Replacement-Pick-Up-Module_p_1023.html
In any case, it occurred to me that the module may need a 1.5 ohm load or higher to work properly. You should be able to wire the coil inline if needed if that is the case or the car may have had a ballast resistor installed initially.
However, I think it is still worth testing to determine if it is working. If it is not, then it’s about deciding what you want to do and if they are going to give you a bunch of grief to replace it.
A well regarded distributor guy in the English car world is Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors in Shakopee MN 612-804-5543 if you drop him an email, he is likely to respond with some helpful information like the intended gap.
as someone else suggested - check that the wires are lined up with the pistons hitting TDC. Also worth checking that the trigger on the rotating shaft in the distributor is near the center of the pickup. You may have to pop the rotor off. Like making sure points are open near TDC.
For me here on a 65 inch 4k tv not much difference sound and pic always nice. Would not put 2 k on a Cam no difference for me . Best regards.
Prob not i shoot on my gal note 8 and it looks great i would not pay that for a cam no better qc the only vid ive seen a diff was the 4k vid you used on the merc
Tbh your video quality is shit. I don't believe it is filmed on a Note 8. It looks more like Galaxy J3 or something. And you film vertically.
@@MauriceNL1 not that this one sorry and good eye that was the s3 i will put a link didnt want to do that on randys vids but per the topic i will
th-cam.com/video/WgYbxnf9mkA/w-d-xo.html
The camera looks good. It's a warmer image, flesh tones are a little more pleasing.
I think the video quality is great with the iPhone just key point is make sure lightning is good
Try your best not to make a mess 🤠
That rhymes good
Put cylinder 1 to tdc then look where the rotor is pointing in the distributor. That will be the cylinder 1 on the distributor.
Good plan on taking a break and thinking through the ignition on the MG. You are so close to having this thing sorted out. Also lots of good ideas in the comments so should be fixed probably before I can get this posted.
On the new camera...hell yea theres a difference. With the iPhone I could see you and the cars really well. With the Sony, it looks like your shop is a green screen that you are sitting in front of.
Ambassador content lets get it!!
Hey Randy, ill say it. We love your car brain !!! And we want more of it??? Lon from Ohio .
Randy not fussed by which camera, but tripod mount is always provides a steadier picture than a selfie stick.
If the background is moving too much video for many will become unwatchable.
Hope you get the MGB running.
Had a buddy who swapped the 305 in his camaro with the 350 in his 85 3/4 ton had timing issue, turned out the distributor shaft was bent or gear was cocked so as we turned it over teeth skipped and timing was always off.
I'm glad you saw my message about the having the wrong lens. Keep up the great work.
I was shocked lol. I appreciate it man.
@@AutoAuctionRebuilds Anytime. I work at B&H Photo. If you ever have any questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to reach out.
..don't quite understand....The distributor is keyed...it only fits in one direction...even if you turn the distributor body upside down, (the vacuum diaphragm will hit the starter or external oil cooler lines)...but it will still be keyed to the crank drive shaft in only one position?...
First you can save even more money and get amazing quality purchase a sony handy cam digital done camera is only 200.00
No, the quality of those is not what I'm looking for.
ALso, I believe your front alternator mount bracket is broken off. Needs a bit of welding.
You are correct. It is part of the W/P
Focus is better , but video quality is almost the same from the iphone.
iPhone was fine. That 4K would buy a lift, or a big chunk of it, would it not? Best of luck getting the MGB going. FIngers crossed!
Hey Randy - Sony 100%, really good quality. Great vid, you're a brave man working on MG, I'm English and I'd run a mile from working on one 😂 thanks for the hard work man