Yes! This is why I subscribe - watching the wizard perform his magic with his tools. The nice cars are good, the tool reviews helpful, but lots of people do that. Skilled repair and maintenance is what differentiates this channel. "Bob Ross with a wrench" is where this channel shines.
Before pulling the pan , I use a transfer pump , feeding the uptake hose down the dipstick tube . You can pull most of the fluid out of the pan before you pull it.
You can actually pick up an oil extractor (works fine for this as well) from harbor freight for pretty cheap. Great for emptying out gearboxes as well. Won't get everything but it beats dumping a gallon (or 2 in some cases) of ATF all over your garage floor. Personally I just use my shop's flush machine in dipstick mode. Makes refilling it a lot easier as well.
TH350s can be tough to seal..many times previous owners have overtightened the pan, warping the pan holes..sometimes the leak can actually be elsewhere above the pan and only appear to be the pan leaking.
I've done this quite a few times over the years, and I still find it interesting and entertaining to watch you do it. I haven't done the super glue trick, but I have used either gasket shellac (they still make it!) or 1A Permatex to hold the gasket on until it sets before reinstalling the pan. Anything to make your life easier when lying underneath a car! Something to check while you're down there would be the o-ring seal at the speedometer drive, and the vacuum hose to the modulator valve. Thanks for the great content, and for explaining everything so well.
Wizard, for years I used to use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold my pan gaskets in place. I didn’t have to use much and I could get it off pretty easy with a Scotch Brite disc even when it’s been dried for years. Just a thought if your ever out of super glue. Thanks for the video. It brought back a lot of memories!
Ya know, for running a shop and making money off people that don't know what they are doing, the wizard gives excellent advice for those that very well could be going to a shop to have something done that is so simple. Thank you wizard for being a good honest mechanic. They seem to be few and far between now
i have also had the same experience. Diesel mechanic, but i also do side work on regular cars. But i guess maybe on exotic cars it might be a problem? Wouldn't know myself, I usually work on American, Asian and some German cars. Also, i always try to look for the torque specs and usually unless stated, go around the clock, ex 12 then 6, 1 then 7, etc. for the final torque
I have owned over 100 cars and probably have had my hands in 200ish automatic transmissions and it just depends on the gasket company. For example the rubberish fram gaskets grab the bolt thread but the cork fram generally do not. Those awesome blue gaskets that I believe are made from silicone I have seen go both ways. It really just depends on the manufacturer. Since I have moved ro buying stuff from rock auto mainly I have came across all sorts of brands and some are real high quality and others are not and price doesn't seem to necessarily reflect the quality.
My first car was a 1973 Chrevrolet Malibu with a 350 mated to a 350 Turbo Hydramatic transmission (bitchin' name, good job GM marketing!) It was my grandmother's car, and when I bought it from her in 1985 for the token amount of $200, it had all of 48K miles on it. However, it had been parked outside in Texas for years, the paint was faded the vinyl top was cracked and the seats and plastic fantastic interior was all cracked faded and rotten. GM quality for ya right there. Anyhoo - funny thing about the 350 Turbo transmissions from that generation: They had a design flaw and the 2nd gear band tends to strip out around 60K miles. When that happens you lose 2nd gear and the car then shifts from low to high: Your 3 speed is now a 2 speed. Coincidentally, I had a B&M shift kit I had been meaning to install on the car but it was way too intimidating a job for a 16 year old kid to do in the driveway. Had I installed it and then the design flaw had reared its ugly head I would be telling everyone to this day all about how a B&M shift kit will destroy your transmission. As it was, I got it repaired and had the transmission shop install the kit for me. I had them set the full throttle shift for 5K RPM (as it had been from the factory.) The car would scratch the tires going into 2nd. Fun times.
Some torque converters on older vehicles had a drain plug so you could drain more of the transmission fluid out. Also, storing the super glue container in a refrigerator will prevent the glue from hardening.
Rob Stephens i may get that glue on my next hotdog the way my wife cooks,last time i put a bearing in the fridge to shrink it , it was near the stuff lined up to be thrown out. It ended in the trash .
ATF used to contain whale oil, and 1972-73 was right at the tail end its use in automotive applications. If it's the original fluid, that smell very well might be whale oil and other additives breaking down.
Sir - when the world is crazy, I watch your videos and life is just better! Can you make videos of basic repairs on regular cars/trucks, including your hacks/advice? Things like changing out alternators, blower motors, wiring harnesses, and so on? Sure - other people make these videos. But as a teacher of more than 20 years, I see in you a great teacher. Take care and practice social distance!!
I gave this five stars despite using a different technique. If you are installing an old Brit or American cork gasket, I would recommend using Hylomar on the pan side and Loctite 515 or 518 on the motor side of the gasket. The super glue works for him and I have never tried that. My method seals some pretty crude cork gaskets, and when you pull the gasket off, the Loctite stays with the gasket. Priceless. This is also the old school high dollar method used on older aircraft. If you are installing a rubber gasket maybe his way works better.
My uncle taught me the same technique that you used for tightening the bolts on the transmission pan years ago. I've used that technique on transmission pans, oil pans and valve cover gaskets over the years. I smiled like a fat kid in a bakery when you did that because I thought it was just his way of doing it.
12:00 My personal experience with those rubber gaskets is that they are way more expensive than cork, last maybe a little longer, then begin leaking, and they stick to the surface like hell. Went back to cork, no problems ever since.
Thanks Caprifreak - I'm about to flush my E40D transmission and decided to use a cork gasket. I noticed that there is NO ATV or other sealants used! Just the cork and a small sealant to keep the bolt holes in place. Any advice? 10-12 foot pounds on tightening the pan. Seems real light.
Great that you make some more video's this week and in the crisis whe're in. Always relaxes me to see you work and talk, so thanks Wizard and miss Wizard !
While I had my pan off on my 97 dodge 12 valve I drilled a hole in it at the lowest point and weld on a nut on outside and used bold and copper washer and now I can drain my fluid easy. Very happy! Just make sure bolt don’t go past bottom of pan.
I am in lockdown, watching lots of youtube. Love your style of video, and your calm and relaxed nature. It's hard to imagine you getting angry! Your videos help me a lot, they inspire me to do more jobs myself and to do them properly first time.. thank you so much.
The bolt holes in the gasket are designed slightly smaller than the bolt diameter so you can use the bolts as alignment pins to hold the gasket in place with no adhesives never use sealants on trans pans the sealant can over time break off a small piece on the inside and get jammed up in the valve body I learned this back in auto mechanic trade school.
I have done this kind of job in the 60s. did not have super glue or fancy gaskets. used very small string to tie the gasket through every other hole and out. small string can be cut and removed or just left. like today never over tighten the bolts. it can also deform the pan as well as ruin the gasket. if you are a bit to loose the gasket will seep. just tighten a bit more. helpful video.
Not related but I’ve changed gear box on 83 f150 twice w/rebuilt motor craft.Has new power steering pump and new lines. Looks like it’s combining out the bottom of gear box. Thanks! Love your videos.
Thanks for the video. Beautiful truck. Considering restoring one from the farm graveyard. Has a broken parking pawl and it’s rusted through in many spots.
Nice tip! Good trans kits gaskets have a few smaller holes in them to hold 4 or 5 bolts in place and locates everything. I was also taught to use a little white grease to hold stuff in place
Good video. I changed the the trans pan gasket on a car I'm fixing up. The car sat in the same spot for two months and there was a big pool of transmission fluid under the car that had leaked out.I Just got another gasket and will be more careful with the bolt torque next time.
Why super glue? My dad was a mechanic most his life and he taught me the 3M weatherstrip adhesive trick. Of course back then there was no super glue. Great video, and thanks!
Thanks Wiz. I appreciate the tips. I'm gobsmacked at the knowledge that you've accumulated and are willing to share. We are all dying at home in Lockdown. Can you please start working on the old girl with the Rolls Engine? We are all dying for content.
Back when cars had a lot of thick paper gaskets I used Permatex # 2. Was economical and used many tubes of it. Kept a small bottle of rubbing alcohol to clean hands & tools.
Some remarks: removing the Gasket should be done in moves parallel to the pan edges with Sanding paper. There is always the danger that oil is leaking because of scratches connecting the inner edge with the outer. ALso, if you overtighten the Pan it happens that the pan is disformed. The screw will bulge in the sealing surface and afterwards you´ll have leakes between the mounting holes. Otherwise: good explanation, well done.
Working on couple different cars. One oil pan bolt was extremely difficult to remove and even more difficult to install. That one bolt was above a steel member with no room for a short socket. Had to grind off a large portion to make the socket shorter and thinner to fit just catching that bolt at an angle. Install is another problem, since that bolt was fully out there is no room for the modified socket to fit no matter how short. Couple hours of cursing dropping that blot more than a dozen times, kid you not, then add insult to injury they send me the wrong gasket and filter. Working on another car, oil pan was glued in, won't budge using a mallet and prybar. What fun working on my back outside, 105° F. Always something, always a challenge. Super glue trick is pretty good, not sure I have the courage jacking up the engine.
If it's like the dealership I used to work at There's a uniform cleaning service(think Cintas, G&K or amarak) that comes in once or twice a week and they take all the used rags to get cleaned and drop off some freshly cleaned ones along with your uniforms. I always had to run around and grab the used rag bins and toss them in the collection bag for them to grab lol
That's funny. I felt like I was being a janky amateur when I got frustrated with the gasket slipping all the time and I carefully put a tiny drop of superglue on each outside corner, using a magnifying glass to make sure it was only touching the outside surfaces. Then I see the Wizard going completely HAM with it. OK then.
The next guy to do yours won't have much issue. The next guy to reseal the Wizards is going to spend an hour cleaning superglue and gasket off the pan.
Very informative, really enjoyed watching this. You do a great job explaining the procedure. I have a 1996 Ford F 150 currently in a shop having this exact job being performed. Wish I could have done it myself after watching your video. Thanks for sharing your expertise, much appreciated.
I haven't done one of those jobs since I was 18 working at TG&Y. I use the same tightening technique, grabbing close to the ratchet head, on 7/16, 10mm, any small bolt not needing a torque wrench. About the only thing I would do differently, is I would use Permatex blue to hold the gaskets, and would put a thin layer on both sides. Just to ensure it didn't leak. Same on valve cover gaskets. Is that not necessary anymore? I've spent a lifetime doing other work, so I haven't kept up like the pros do.
I have always used super tacky red gasket adhesive on my pan gasket. Way back when, I used thread to tie though each hole . Then after getting the bolt started I could snip the thread and pull. My first attempt installing a pan gasket was using the black sealant and the gasket would roll up and curl. Super glue is the new wonder stuff. I had to replace too many cork gaskets simply because they would spin from the bolt and rip the gasket causing a leak, then you had to start all over again with a new gasket. I learned how to take it easy on the gasket after that.
Wizard some time try 3M feathering disc adhesive. Just a little all the way around the pan. Place gasket on slide it around a bit. Take the gasket off for a few moments let the 3M get tacky. Reinstall gasket. The 3M will turn the gasket surface sticky like a post-it note. It never sets up all the way and makes the next time clean up very easy too. Get it a try. A tube will last you for years.
Do a video series like this for general repairs , that is SUPER helpful .... I had do to a fuel pump on an old 80s jeep and the biggest pain was the gasket kept falling off !
If you're using the rubber gasket I clean the bolts and shove all of them into the holes before I put the pan up. The rubber gasket will hold the bolts in place and it lines up the gasket. No silicone or glue needed. With cork I use a very thin bead of silicone the same way you did with super glue.
A trick I use on the Pan gasket, is to use a steam iron, you use for your clothes, the hot steam iron, using steam will flatten the gasket perfectly, then it's very easy to hold it in place, and your not contaminating the gasket.
Mr WIZARD. Replacing the gasket and super glue...........perfect idea. Changing the automatic transmission fluid.............total disaster.......that what most mechanics do and auto transmissions fail. You left about 50 % old ATF fluid in the transmission (converter) and you charge the customer full price for servicing his or her transmission. You just show me how not to change the ATF fluid. Can you show how to do it? If one of my workers would do ATF change your way......it would be his or her last day at work (every worker have one to one training) I know......this movie was about ......gaskets installation tricks only. Have a good time mate. Andy from Australia
Try and give a little dig to the manufactures because in the good old days we had a drain plug in the pan. Now they have cut out dip sticks and many other maintenance needed items.
Some gaskets are perfect size to hold the bolts in place if you screw them in on the table. If it works, any problem with gasket shifting disappears. Then lift the pan, gasket and bolts as a unit up to the transmission, and thread the bolts the rest of the way.
My wife and I both have had old trucks she prefers her 79 Chevy. I got that one for $50 back in the mid-80s it did have a blown head gasket six cylinder but I fix that and it ran for many years until the engine finally let loose and I put a V-8 in it when my son was going to high school that became the truck they used an auto shop and at that point my wife started her smaller vehicle phase. 93 blazer
Great video, could you talk about how often to change the oil for transmission, breaks, anti-freeze etc. The car I have now says never to change the antifreeze, what are your thoughts?
I remove the trans line going to the radiator and run the engine till 3 to 4 quarts of fluid come out... then when i pull the pan its got almost no fluid to be a mess. Every year after i change the trans filter i also pull a gallon or two of trans fluid without the filter.. thru the same hose.. Ford panther platforms like having some fluid changed every year or two. Dont need to try to get all of it. Thats my addition to your info.
That is one clean undercarriage. I would love to have one of those old trucks. I had a chance back in 95 to buy a nice original(ish) 69 stepside with a pristine wood floor. That same truck now (I know the owner) recently sold for over $40k.
Thanks David. I am considering doing this on my 2010 Honda Civic, it's a bit weepy... Speaking of which, can I jack the front of the car from the front subframe just behind the radiator? I'm pretty new to mechanical work, would prefer not to bend major chassis components! Thanks mate, we appreciate your efforts to put out more videos at the moment. Shooting, editing and releasing quality videos is no small task!
Bless you Wizard, you are such a saint. Imagine thinking of us stuck at home, gasping on a wrenching video. I'm sure you'll donate the income to a suitable charity. Nobody could imagine the Wizard as a greedy, grasping opportunist.
I usually extract the fluid through the dipstick tube before removing the pan. It helps if the fluid is warmed by driving. FWIW, I prefer the felt filter as opposed to the nylon or brass screen b/c the surface area is much greater, the felt type filter is less prone to clogging due to this larger surface area.
Thanks, Wizard ... if it was me, I would open the transmission cooling line that is leaving the radiator and push about 8 quarts of the brand new fluid though and out of it for a simple, easy and total transmission oil change .... given that fact that was very old, original fluid. ( just saying' ) Really enjoy your channel Wizard ... take care ... be well .... ; )
i've done this many times on my own and family members vehicles.. never thought about crazy glue. i've always used dabs or a very thin layer of rtv to just hold it in place. the trouble is when others have been there before and over done it. bolt holes pulled in make things interesting. my ranger needed some work on the trans. a solenoid went bad from sitting too long. bought it cheap but not running. another engine later, yes it was that bad and a couple short drives i lost 3rd gear. anyway that truck had been through it already, it's still not much but it saves gas going to work. that pan i played hell sealing. i tried the right way a couple times, just wasted my fluid. i ended up gooping rtv on both sides to make it seal and then it leaked slightly. went back under there and smashed that gasket and rtv out just a hair and it's not leaked a drop since and that's been a couple years ago. this is far too easy for this mess of a job lol.
I wire wheel it off and shoot it with some paint what the gasket doesn't touch. Also I like to add in the seal the TV cable and selector shaft. Save money in the long run for a few extra minutes of work.
A flush is usually more harmful to the transmission. A simple drain/filter/fill won't cause the problems that a flush will. Debris in the system will generally get trapped in the new filter during driving after this service. A flush can force debris into the cooler passages, or tight tolerance areas of the valve body, this will now create restrictive flow, and alter line pressures. The servos will compensate for this to some degree, but flushing creates more problems than a drain fill does. If one wanted to, a repeat drain/filter/fill can be done a few weeks later for a second time. This will refresh most all of the old fluid, but it isn't really a necessity.
Wizard puts out more videos while we're stuck at home. Bless this man
Wizzard's elbow clicks when the bolt reaches proper torque :)
it may be an underlying health problem or it could be correct GM spec. Id still see a Doctor.
Gergely Záruba yours doesn’t ?
My only wish is that you wear gloves so that you're not exposed to chemical products. Don't want my boo to get sick.
You joke but getting old sucks.
Yes! This is why I subscribe - watching the wizard perform his magic with his tools. The nice cars are good, the tool reviews helpful, but lots of people do that. Skilled repair and maintenance is what differentiates this channel. "Bob Ross with a wrench" is where this channel shines.
Well put, "Bob Ross with a wrench"
Well explained. Mrs. Wizard asks some good background questions and does a great job with the camera. Kudos to you both
Before pulling the pan , I use a transfer pump , feeding the uptake hose down the dipstick tube .
You can pull most of the fluid out of the pan before you pull it.
I use it for oil changes too, so I don't have to pull off the bottom engine cover.
You can actually pick up an oil extractor (works fine for this as well) from harbor freight for pretty cheap. Great for emptying out gearboxes as well. Won't get everything but it beats dumping a gallon (or 2 in some cases) of ATF all over your garage floor. Personally I just use my shop's flush machine in dipstick mode. Makes refilling it a lot easier as well.
Smart ! Ima do that .
@@rayspickler5247 Dang that's cool
I do the same thing & do it for changing the fluid 1x per year...
I use 3M spray adhesive on gaskets
I'm so disappointed the Wizard didn't taste that vintage trans fluid!
I was sooo hoping he would.
@@gavinplunkett977 73 was a very good year. Fewer additives.
It's for beat the best he didn't,last guy to taste vintage trans fluid is no longer alive.
TH350s can be tough to seal..many times previous owners have overtightened the pan, warping the pan holes..sometimes the leak can actually be elsewhere above the pan and only appear to be the pan leaking.
I've done this quite a few times over the years, and I still find it interesting and entertaining to watch you do it. I haven't done the super glue trick, but I have used either gasket shellac (they still make it!) or 1A Permatex to hold the gasket on until it sets before reinstalling the pan. Anything to make your life easier when lying underneath a car! Something to check while you're down there would be the o-ring seal at the speedometer drive, and the vacuum hose to the modulator valve. Thanks for the great content, and for explaining everything so well.
Mr. and Mrs. Wizard, you're the best!
That truck is beautiful. Love these old squares
Wizard, for years I used to use 3M weatherstrip adhesive to hold my pan gaskets in place. I didn’t have to use much and I could get it off pretty easy with a Scotch Brite disc even when it’s been dried for years. Just a thought if your ever out of super glue. Thanks for the video. It brought back a lot of memories!
Ya know, for running a shop and making money off people that don't know what they are doing, the wizard gives excellent advice for those that very well could be going to a shop to have something done that is so simple. Thank you wizard for being a good honest mechanic. They seem to be few and far between now
Pan gaskets I use have smaller holes every so often that hold the bolts in place so the gasket stays in place while installing.
i have also had the same experience. Diesel mechanic, but i also do side work on regular cars. But i guess maybe on exotic cars it might be a problem? Wouldn't know myself, I usually work on American, Asian and some German cars. Also, i always try to look for the torque specs and usually unless stated, go around the clock, ex 12 then 6, 1 then 7, etc. for the final torque
My thoughts as well on the dozens I have done.
I have owned over 100 cars and probably have had my hands in 200ish automatic transmissions and it just depends on the gasket company. For example the rubberish fram gaskets grab the bolt thread but the cork fram generally do not. Those awesome blue gaskets that I believe are made from silicone I have seen go both ways. It really just depends on the manufacturer. Since I have moved ro buying stuff from rock auto mainly I have came across all sorts of brands and some are real high quality and others are not and price doesn't seem to necessarily reflect the quality.
he studied in the amy ,he was misinformed .and never cought on
My first car was a 1973 Chrevrolet Malibu with a 350 mated to a 350 Turbo Hydramatic transmission (bitchin' name, good job GM marketing!) It was my grandmother's car, and when I bought it from her in 1985 for the token amount of $200, it had all of 48K miles on it. However, it had been parked outside in Texas for years, the paint was faded the vinyl top was cracked and the seats and plastic fantastic interior was all cracked faded and rotten. GM quality for ya right there.
Anyhoo - funny thing about the 350 Turbo transmissions from that generation: They had a design flaw and the 2nd gear band tends to strip out around 60K miles. When that happens you lose 2nd gear and the car then shifts from low to high: Your 3 speed is now a 2 speed.
Coincidentally, I had a B&M shift kit I had been meaning to install on the car but it was way too intimidating a job for a 16 year old kid to do in the driveway. Had I installed it and then the design flaw had reared its ugly head I would be telling everyone to this day all about how a B&M shift kit will destroy your transmission.
As it was, I got it repaired and had the transmission shop install the kit for me. I had them set the full throttle shift for 5K RPM (as it had been from the factory.) The car would scratch the tires going into 2nd. Fun times.
Thank you for posting additional videos while we're all at home!
Great tip with the super glue never heard that before I've been working on cars for 40 years thanks
Thanks for doing the extra video Car Wizard, I’m a massive fan from over the pond in the UK. 👍
Wizard, please do more of these instructional vids!
Some torque converters on older vehicles had a drain plug so you could drain more of the transmission fluid out. Also, storing the super glue container in a refrigerator will prevent the glue from hardening.
Rob Stephens i may get that glue on my next hotdog the way my wife cooks,last time i put a bearing in the fridge to shrink it , it was near the stuff lined up to be thrown out. It ended in the trash .
ATF used to contain whale oil, and 1972-73 was right at the tail end its use in automotive applications. If it's the original fluid, that smell very well might be whale oil and other additives breaking down.
Fortunately they discovered jojoba oil was a superior substitute.
Thank you SO MUCH for the extra videos, Mr. Wizard! This will make the quarantine so much more bearable. THANKS!!!
Thanks for the super glue tip! Tried it tonight works great!!
Sir - when the world is crazy, I watch your videos and life is just better! Can you make videos of basic repairs on regular cars/trucks, including your hacks/advice? Things like changing out alternators, blower motors, wiring harnesses, and so on? Sure - other people make these videos. But as a teacher of more than 20 years, I see in you a great teacher. Take care and practice social distance!!
I gave this five stars despite using a different technique. If you are installing an old Brit or American cork gasket, I would recommend using Hylomar on the pan side and Loctite 515 or 518 on the motor side of the gasket. The super glue works for him and I have never tried that. My method seals some pretty crude cork gaskets, and when you pull the gasket off, the Loctite stays with the gasket. Priceless. This is also the old school high dollar method used on older aircraft. If you are installing a rubber gasket maybe his way works better.
My uncle taught me the same technique that you used for tightening the bolts on the transmission pan years ago. I've used that technique on transmission pans, oil pans and valve cover gaskets over the years. I smiled like a fat kid in a bakery when you did that because I thought it was just his way of doing it.
Yup. Enjoy the mechanic work. Good job Wizard.
I’ve did the same super glue trick for other things as well
Best trick !
Never thought to use super glue on a gasket. Thanks for the tip.
I use a dab on tiny screws when repairing computers. Keeps the screw on the screwdriver when you have to reach down in to put in the screw.
@@DarthVader1977 That's what magnetized screwdrivers and bits are for.
@@LN997-i8x I guess you've never seen a plastic screw.
For the gasket I always used weatherstrip adhesive. Works great
I wanted to see you add the fluid and start her up and all that good stuff
Pretty cool wizard. I was taught to use a small amount of grease on the gasket to do the same basic thing, hold everything in place during install
12:00
My personal experience with those rubber gaskets is that they are way more expensive than cork, last maybe a little longer, then begin leaking, and they stick to the surface like hell.
Went back to cork, no problems ever since.
Might as well say "fuckit" and just use a bead of black RTV sealant, like an oil pan, really.
Thanks Caprifreak - I'm about to flush my E40D transmission and decided to use a cork gasket. I noticed that there is NO ATV or other sealants used! Just the cork and a small sealant to keep the bolt holes in place.
Any advice? 10-12 foot pounds on tightening the pan. Seems real light.
Dang I’ve worked on a ton of these back then and still love them
Thank you for sharing and reminding me of the good days in shop 😊
Great that you make some more video's this week and in the crisis whe're in. Always relaxes me to see you work and talk, so thanks Wizard and miss Wizard !
Man I love this guy. So humble and intelligent.
I use the same method with the gasket but I also hand screw two headless bolts into the unit to use as guide bolts. Works real well
I truly appreciate your time and effort making your videos. It's very nice of you to try to help others. GBYAY.....Kenny in Vegas
While I had my pan off on my 97 dodge 12 valve I drilled a hole in it at the lowest point and weld on a nut on outside and used bold and copper washer and now I can drain my fluid easy. Very happy! Just make sure bolt don’t go past bottom of pan.
I am in lockdown, watching lots of youtube. Love your style of video, and your calm and relaxed nature. It's hard to imagine you getting angry! Your videos help me a lot, they inspire me to do more jobs myself and to do them properly first time.. thank you so much.
The bolt holes in the gasket are designed slightly smaller than the bolt diameter so you can use the bolts as alignment pins to hold the gasket in place with no adhesives never use sealants on trans pans the sealant can over time break off a small piece on the inside and get jammed up in the valve body I learned this back in auto mechanic trade school.
I have done this kind of job in the 60s. did not have super glue or fancy gaskets. used very small string to tie the gasket through every other hole and out. small string can be cut and removed or just left. like today never over tighten the bolts. it can also deform the pan as well as ruin the gasket. if you are a bit to loose the gasket will seep. just tighten a bit more. helpful video.
Not related but I’ve changed gear box on 83 f150 twice w/rebuilt motor craft.Has new power steering pump and new lines. Looks like it’s combining out the bottom of gear box.
Thanks! Love your videos.
Probably the most calming thing I’ve watched since coronavirus started. The Wizard is truly a gift, can’t wait to watch more
I'm about to do a transmission service on my old truck and this video really hit the spot. Thanks!
"A tisket, a tasket, The Wizard replaces the gasket".
Nice.
I do that super glue trick with power steering Pressure lines that have banjo bolts to hold the copper washers in place.
Thanks for the video. Beautiful truck. Considering restoring one from the farm graveyard. Has a broken parking pawl and it’s rusted through in many spots.
Nice tip! Good trans kits gaskets have a few smaller holes in them to hold 4 or 5 bolts in place and locates everything. I was also taught to use a little white grease to hold stuff in place
Good video. I changed the the trans pan gasket on a car I'm fixing up. The car sat in the same spot for two months and there was a big pool of transmission fluid under the car that had leaked out.I Just got another gasket and will be more careful with the bolt torque next time.
Why super glue? My dad was a mechanic most his life and he taught me the 3M weatherstrip adhesive trick. Of course back then there was no super glue. Great video, and thanks!
Super glue was invented in 1942
Sewing thread tying the gasket to the pan in a few places. No adhesives are required. Makes it a lot easier for the next guy.
Excellent video, I also use some blue locktite in some bolts threads.
Good to change the dipstick seal also
Thanks Wiz. I appreciate the tips. I'm gobsmacked at the knowledge that you've accumulated and are willing to share. We are all dying at home in Lockdown. Can you please start working on the old girl with the Rolls Engine? We are all dying for content.
Back when cars had a lot of thick paper gaskets I used Permatex # 2. Was economical and used many tubes of it. Kept a small bottle of rubbing alcohol to clean hands & tools.
Some remarks: removing the Gasket should be done in moves parallel to the pan edges with Sanding paper. There is always the danger that oil is leaking because of scratches connecting the inner edge with the outer. ALso, if you overtighten the Pan it happens that the pan is disformed. The screw will bulge in the sealing surface and afterwards you´ll have leakes between the mounting holes.
Otherwise: good explanation, well done.
crud from around the transmission can fall onto the gasket when lifting the pan in place too..
Working on couple different cars. One oil pan bolt was extremely difficult to remove and even more difficult to install. That one bolt was above a steel member with no room for a short socket. Had to grind off a large portion to make the socket shorter and thinner to fit just catching that bolt at an angle. Install is another problem, since that bolt was fully out there is no room for the modified socket to fit no matter how short. Couple hours of cursing dropping that blot more than a dozen times, kid you not, then add insult to injury they send me the wrong gasket and filter. Working on another car, oil pan was glued in, won't budge using a mallet and prybar. What fun working on my back outside, 105° F. Always something, always a challenge. Super glue trick is pretty good, not sure I have the courage jacking up the engine.
Question: What do you do with your rags? Trash them? Wash them? How? Thanks for the videos.
If it's like the dealership I used to work at There's a uniform cleaning service(think Cintas, G&K or amarak) that comes in once or twice a week and they take all the used rags to get cleaned and drop off some freshly cleaned ones along with your uniforms. I always had to run around and grab the used rag bins and toss them in the collection bag for them to grab lol
That's funny. I felt like I was being a janky amateur when I got frustrated with the gasket slipping all the time and I carefully put a tiny drop of superglue on each outside corner, using a magnifying glass to make sure it was only touching the outside surfaces. Then I see the Wizard going completely HAM with it. OK then.
I've been using RTV for years to do that. Never thought of trying superglue.
The next guy to do yours won't have much issue.
The next guy to reseal the Wizards is going to spend an hour cleaning superglue and gasket off the pan.
Squishing the gasket is one thing but it can also deform the pan flange. I do like the superglue trick.
Very informative, really enjoyed watching this. You do a great job explaining the procedure. I have a 1996 Ford F 150 currently in a shop having this exact job being performed. Wish I could have done it myself after watching your video. Thanks for sharing your expertise, much appreciated.
I haven't done one of those jobs since I was 18 working at TG&Y. I use the same tightening technique, grabbing close to the ratchet head, on 7/16, 10mm, any small bolt not needing a torque wrench. About the only thing I would do differently, is I would use Permatex blue to hold the gaskets, and would put a thin layer on both sides. Just to ensure it didn't leak. Same on valve cover gaskets. Is that not necessary anymore? I've spent a lifetime doing other work, so I haven't kept up like the pros do.
I have always used super tacky red gasket adhesive on my pan gasket. Way back when, I used thread to tie though each hole . Then after getting the bolt started I could snip the thread and pull. My first attempt installing a pan gasket was using the black sealant and the gasket would roll up and curl. Super glue is the new wonder stuff. I had to replace too many cork gaskets simply because they would spin from the bolt and rip the gasket causing a leak, then you had to start all over again with a new gasket. I learned how to take it easy on the gasket after that.
Wizard some time try 3M feathering disc adhesive. Just a little all the way around the pan. Place gasket on slide it around a bit. Take the gasket off for a few moments let the 3M get tacky. Reinstall gasket. The 3M will turn the gasket surface sticky like a post-it note. It never sets up all the way and makes the next time clean up very easy too. Get it a try. A tube will last you for years.
Do a video series like this for general repairs , that is SUPER helpful .... I had do to a fuel pump on an old 80s jeep and the biggest pain was the gasket kept falling off !
If you're using the rubber gasket I clean the bolts and shove all of them into the holes before I put the pan up. The rubber gasket will hold the bolts in place and it lines up the gasket. No silicone or glue needed. With cork I use a very thin bead of silicone the same way you did with super glue.
A trick I use on the Pan gasket, is to use a steam iron, you use for your clothes, the hot steam iron, using steam will flatten the gasket perfectly, then it's very easy to hold it in place, and your not contaminating the gasket.
A very good instructional video for a novice like myself. Thank you sir!
I like doing things simple and smart. Can't wait to do super glue trick. Thank you for this video.
I use low tack repositioning spray glue to hold the gaskets. Hobby lobby has
Mr WIZARD. Replacing the gasket and super glue...........perfect idea.
Changing the automatic transmission fluid.............total disaster.......that what most mechanics do and auto transmissions fail.
You left about 50 % old ATF fluid in the transmission (converter) and you charge the customer full price for servicing his or her transmission.
You just show me how not to change the ATF fluid. Can you show how to do it?
If one of my workers would do ATF change your way......it would be his or her last day at work (every worker have one to one training)
I know......this movie was about ......gaskets installation tricks only.
Have a good time mate.
Andy from Australia
yellow weather strip trim adhesive works good also
Try and give a little dig to the manufactures because in the good old days we had a drain plug in the pan. Now they have cut out dip sticks and many other maintenance needed items.
Some gaskets are perfect size to hold the bolts in place if you screw them in on the table. If it works, any problem with gasket shifting disappears. Then lift the pan, gasket and bolts as a unit up to the transmission, and thread the bolts the rest of the way.
My wife and I both have had old trucks she prefers her 79 Chevy. I got that one for $50 back in the mid-80s it did have a blown head gasket six cylinder but I fix that and it ran for many years until the engine finally let loose and I put a V-8 in it when my son was going to high school that became the truck they used an auto shop and at that point my wife started her smaller vehicle phase. 93 blazer
Thanks Wiz, interesting and valuable content so keep up the good work.
Great vid - thanks Car Wizard and Mrs Wizard
You post this a day after I replaced the oil pan gasket on my 88' Volvo 740. Easy job, a lot to remove. Great video by the way wizard!
Great video, could you talk about how often to change the oil for transmission, breaks, anti-freeze etc. The car I have now says never to change the antifreeze, what are your thoughts?
Very nice video. The camera framing & pacing is excellent
I remove the trans line going to the radiator and run the engine till 3 to 4 quarts of fluid come out... then when i pull the pan its got almost no fluid to be a mess. Every year after i change the trans filter i also pull a gallon or two of trans fluid without the filter.. thru the same hose..
Ford panther platforms like having some fluid changed every year or two. Dont need to try to get all of it. Thats my addition to your info.
That is one clean undercarriage. I would love to have one of those old trucks. I had a chance back in 95 to buy a nice original(ish) 69 stepside with a pristine wood floor. That same truck now (I know the owner) recently sold for over $40k.
Been fighting a leaky trans pan for quite awhile on my Wagoneer. I will try this. Thank you wizard
This is awesome, now I can go do my transmission pan
Thanks David. I am considering doing this on my 2010 Honda Civic, it's a bit weepy...
Speaking of which, can I jack the front of the car from the front subframe just behind the radiator? I'm pretty new to mechanical work, would prefer not to bend major chassis components!
Thanks mate, we appreciate your efforts to put out more videos at the moment. Shooting, editing and releasing quality videos is no small task!
This is actually a great video because i'll be doing this same job on my 1977 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme in the next few weeks!
Fire up some Ramen and sip a survival water and let the Wizard make you feel alive again for the next 17:41. .
Bless you Wizard, you are such a saint. Imagine thinking of us stuck at home, gasping on a wrenching video. I'm sure you'll donate the income to a suitable charity. Nobody could imagine the Wizard as a greedy, grasping opportunist.
Your new lifts look seriously solid, the arms are confidence inspiringly thick!
I usually extract the fluid through the dipstick tube before removing the pan. It helps if the fluid is warmed by driving.
FWIW, I prefer the felt filter as opposed to the nylon or brass screen b/c the surface area is much greater, the felt type filter is less prone to clogging due to this larger surface area.
Thanks, Wizard ... if it was me, I would open the transmission cooling line that is leaving the radiator and push about 8 quarts of the brand new fluid though and out of it for a simple, easy and total transmission oil change .... given that fact that was very old, original fluid. ( just saying' ) Really enjoy your channel Wizard ... take care ... be well .... ; )
i've done this many times on my own and family members vehicles.. never thought about crazy glue. i've always used dabs or a very thin layer of rtv to just hold it in place. the trouble is when others have been there before and over done it. bolt holes pulled in make things interesting. my ranger needed some work on the trans. a solenoid went bad from sitting too long. bought it cheap but not running. another engine later, yes it was that bad and a couple short drives i lost 3rd gear. anyway that truck had been through it already, it's still not much but it saves gas going to work. that pan i played hell sealing. i tried the right way a couple times, just wasted my fluid. i ended up gooping rtv on both sides to make it seal and then it leaked slightly. went back under there and smashed that gasket and rtv out just a hair and it's not leaked a drop since and that's been a couple years ago. this is far too easy for this mess of a job lol.
I use contact cement to hold gaskets from moving nice tip thanx.
Good idea. My dad always used 3M super weatherstripping adhesive. I'll do it this way in future.
I remember this trick Mr Wizard we used used to this as well when we would do transmission services back in the 1990's at Carver's Amoco in Illinois
I love the period correct bug deflector
Yup they dont make em like that still wish I could find one for my 77 contintental.
Thanks Wizard, very thoughtful to help keep our minds off the umm you know what! Stay safe.
I wire wheel it off and shoot it with some paint what the gasket doesn't touch. Also I like to add in the seal the TV cable and selector shaft. Save money in the long run for a few extra minutes of work.
Great “How To” video!
How about showing the best way to do a complete transmission flush?
A flush is usually more harmful to the transmission. A simple drain/filter/fill won't cause the problems that a flush will. Debris in the system will generally get trapped in the new filter during driving after this service. A flush can force debris into the cooler passages, or tight tolerance areas of the valve body, this will now create restrictive flow, and alter line pressures. The servos will compensate for this to some degree, but flushing creates more problems than a drain fill does. If one wanted to, a repeat drain/filter/fill can be done a few weeks later for a second time. This will refresh most all of the old fluid, but it isn't really a necessity.