Can I Save this Old Backhoe?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ย. 2024
- DIY attempt at rebuilding my orbital valve for my backhoe does not work out the way I thought it would.
DISCLAIMER'. this is not a how to video and I am not responsible for any actions you take on your equipment or property
#excavation
#dieselmechanic
#backhoe
Mike you gave it all you had. I applaud you for not throwing it. Very good video.
Agree, i would have lost my shit after 2nd or 3rd try!
My guess with minimal knowledge is that internal shaft that engages with the valve up top is clocked 180 degrees off or 60 degrees off or something like that. Its related to whatever repositions the upper valve piece. Good luck brother this is that real fun nobodh likes to have
You are 100% correct, just got it back together and working about an hour a go.
@@CaptainKleeman haha well that's a good feeling. Or it's a bad one because I only knew that much from my own previous errors! Either way glad to hear you worked it out!
@@CaptainKleemanGood to hear! I hope you got to the 'money shot' on video so we can all see what was wrong! There's nothing more aggravating than taking something apart to 'fix it', and having it do something completely different & wrong after 'fixing it'! 👌🏻👍🏻🛠️🔩🔧🚜🦺
✊🏻🇺🇸🦅
Good fix Captain did you figure it out on your own?
An extra large letter "E" for effort!! 100 thumbs up! Looking forward to hearing the cause when you get it back! Safety first! Jim
We never got to see what the Donner Party tried in 1846 so thank you for the ride, and showing what you tried.
This video is the most relatable thing I've ever seen...... If you have never been in a similar situation it cannot be explained......if you have been no explanation is needed.......PS. The Dome light is still not working too.😏
😂😂
I just rebuilt a Parker hydraulic PTO motor. They sent me the rebuild kit for the motor and the most unbelievable, perfect set of instructions I have ever seen. I followed the instructions and achieved success. Of course I hooked it up backwards the first try. Whoever sold you the parts should have included instructions. Ellis
My ignition went out on my lawnmower and so did the Chineseium replacement I bought. I’m 100% sure you helped inspire me to rewire my mower last weekend. I don’t think I would have taken that risk before I started watching your projects.
Well I hope it went well! Also, I'm not liable for any burnt down lawnmowers 😂
Good for you!
@@CaptainKleeman oh man i definitely parked it in the middle of the yard for a few days to be safe!
@@CaptainKleeman Hey Mike, Love how you keep the old girl going. We just blew up the hydraulic pump drive shaft on our 555C and need help. I can only find new driveshafts for earlier models. Do you have a good source for the Fords ? Thanks.
You are way more clever/intelligent than you give yourself credit for Mike ! The new camera for close ups is working very well.Excellent work, excellent video 👍👍🇺🇸🇬🇧🇺🇸🇬🇧
Don't forget mike, what doesn't kill you makes you stronger. Good luck.
Green wire to the alternator comes through the battery light.
A) if the bulb burns out you will not excite the alternator to charge. (solve this by putting a 512 ohm redistor across the bulb holder)
B) once the alternator starts charging voltage equalizes on both sides of the bulb and since no current is flowing, the bulb goes out.
OmG! I would have never thought about that bulb being uses as a resistor. It makes perfect sense now.
Long ago, I once drove a tractor in the 60s with a steering pump valve motor and to keep the tractor driving in a straight line through the field. You had to continuously turn the steering wheel round and round to the right. This was not how it was supposed to work, I knew that. However, it was manageable, and we just lived with it. However, Mike, I have faith in you. I think you’ll get this thing fixed. Even if you do have to pay a professional. Good luck!
Lol
The Captain see's Orbital Valves in his sleep now,and the Admiral is feeling a little jealous 😂
Lol
Man, I feel your pain. I had problems with the brakes on my Bug. After hours of bleeding and rebleeding the brakes, I through in the towel and took it to the shop. My guy had a special "trick" to getting the last few pockets of air out of the lines and - BAM - it was working correctly. I felt silly, but at least now I know how to do it. I'm 100% sure there's just this little "thing" you have to do and it will work perfectly. You just have to pay a guy to learn it.
I read bug and want to know what the trick is?
Most people would have gave up along time ago. Pierce severance you have. Nice video and you gave it the old college try.👍👍👍👍
**Perseverance maybe 😅
Just bought a 1988 f450 6.9 dump truck. Thanks for the motivation. Go to look in to some wiring . And a power steering leak. And small whole in the floor board . And I Hope that is everything!! And she will be on the road .
Depending what shop charges in your area My grandpa said "You can make a $150? mistake every hour the job would take at the shop".....as long as you eventually fix it...He was like you....and never gave up......but that's why there are people that are trained and waiting to help you when you really need them.
It's ok to admit defeat after you have given your best. I hope the shop can show you what the problem was and then it will be crystal clear to you and the knowledge pool just grew exponentially cuz you will share with all of us.
I've got the EXACT problem on an obsolete Char-Lynn steering valve. No shop will work on it because no parts available. A $500 Chinese replacement is the only way for me.
Thanks for the educational video.
I respect a man who uses ’pukein’ as it’s meant to be used. As a verb to describe crud shooting out of something!
😂
G'day Mike, an old Auto Electrician told me to check the fuse before I replaced the wiring harness. that Lucas Marelli alternator will need a warning light to excite the field, that extra terminal is a star point output from one of the phases of the stator for a tacho. you should have power on the field wire with the ignition on, depending on the type of reg some had a fuse under the cover, the reg determines the voltage supplied to the rotor via the slip rings depending on the voltage it senses from the battery, if the alternator is good and is earthed, with a main battery supply, the warning light circuit to the reg through the warning light should have ignition on one side of the globe holder and continuity from the other side back to the reg 👍.
That's all been checked, but I definitely appreciate the info and thanks for watching!
@@CaptainKleeman ok so the body of the reg is earthed, you have battery and ignition at the reg you said you checked the earth wire to the reg the N or S wire and w/Lamp wire 🤔 doesn't leave much, put a 10 amp fused jump wire between the main battery on the back of the alternator and the field terminal you should have a small spark about three or four amps then start the tractor and read the battery voltage, if its around fourteen you have a reg problem if its battery voltage it's the alternator, because as you say the wirings all been checked.
@@CaptainKleemandid you check the output with the engine at high idle?
Mike, I got nuthin for a comment . BUT,....love the teachin that YOU'RE learnin! Thanks for sharing your tenacity.
Carry on Capt'n!
great video.inpressed how you kept figuring all that out.hope you show what they found with it.
A smart man knows when to ask for help from a more experienced man.....
I feel your pain! I've replaced the lifters on an engine twice in the last month and it still is ticking. keep going Mike!
Lets me guess it’s an LS series engine or you have a mechanical cam you just installed
@@gullreefclub 2001 3.1 Malibu with roller lifters. So basically, yes, its an earlier model of the LS type of lifter. LOL
@@benjaminallen4678 Like. Slick Willie famously said I feel your pain.
The patience of Job I say. I'm glad you have so much talent. Only one defeat in many years. Oh well, most of us don't even attempt half of what you do.
What a puzzle! I've chased plenty of electrical gremlins, but pumps are a whole other animal. Interesting seeing you dig into that.
Your problem solving skills are top notch, you almost had it. We all have found ourselves in a similar situation, it’s ok, that’s why experts exist.
Mike give it some RPMs to test the alt. It won't charge 14 at idle.
It does not say “thermostat”, it says “thermostart” which is the manifold heater. 🏴
You're right, It's aThermostart system used on many tractors including my John Deere 750.
We love your tenacity. Please keep up the great work!
Thanks!
Take the old girl to Nascar track and let her have her fun.... turning left all day! 😂😂😂
😂😂
I feel your frustration, I've worked on many things where the solution was no where to be found. I'm really interested to learn what you find out. Great videos, love your channel!
Thanks!
Good evening sir! Lol! I didn't get notification for this video til 17 hours later! Great video! Much love and respect from Henderson Ga USA
Great try! Keep figuring it out.
Thank you for sharing!😊
Saw a forum with same issue as you youtube won't let link so the answer was '.its where the return line fits on......losen the 2 bolts so u can move it slightly....' I have no idea what he is talking about but the response was 'yup, just slightly loosen those 2 bolts and tap that cap part upperward or downward to stop the movement.'
No idea myself BUT, that suggests you are getting leakage from port to port. By shifting the alignment of the ports, you are cutting off a path from one, to the other, getting a stable no flow condition. The adjustment would only need say 1/16 inch both ways for seal/no seal conditions.
Just a thought. Not an hydraulic expert. But if if spins freely one way then it seems to me there must be a pressure imbalance. I would expect a steering system to be balanced. Maybe a valve is not working correctly. I'm wondering if a check ball is missing a spring. I don't actually know there is a check ball at all but it is just my suggestion.
PS. Don't get rid of the 555 as some are suggesting. these videos are some of my favourites. I wish you a fully working machine but until then I'm enjoying the show. Nice cliffhanger.
I feel for you Mike. It would seem your bench test should give you process of elimination way of finding neutral. I know you will get it right and share with us. Great video although frustrating.
Mike you have done very well at every attempt, I congratulate you Sir on the efforts, at times I'll agree we have to admit defeat. In your case you took it with a great attitude smile's all the way through. I pray for you to get this fixed up right, God bless you and your family have a great day ya'll.
Thanks and appreciate ya watching!
Admiring your patience Mike
Thanks!
Its alot of fun to try and fix wireing and when you get it done and it works .
You'll get it figured out Mike thanks great video
Dang, I thought you were gonna figure it out. You seemed so close!
At least you gave it a college try. I did one wrong and so when I started it up it turned so fast that it broke the valve body. Lots of years ago, not sure how we fixed it but best guess was replaced everything and started over. Yeah its painful when that happens but pushed for time and working for a large company that said "Get it fixed or replace it now" and so I am sure that is what happened Mike.
Sounds like a call to Clint on the CC bat phone might save you some time and sanity.
He said in the video he called & talked to Clint....there is only one Clint he'd be referring to. 😂😅🤦🏻♂️👍🏻
Thank you for sharing!
One note on putting a GM 1-wire alternator on your machine, it expects a high RPM before it starts charging. Put one on my old bobcat and it would charge when I'm running the engine fast, but if I dropped it down to even half-speed it stopped charging.
Good job Captain and good luck
Thanks!
I love YOUR DETERAMATION
Oh boy..... 🤯🤔
Your perseverance has shown through again ! You may have not got the outcome you were hoping for, but you learnt a great deal about the steering pump 🤓
There must be a mark on the shaft somewhere to line up to, since there is not one anywhere else. 🤔
Being careful and completing each job is important if you want things to work.
Determination! Awesome 👍🏼
Hello Mike. I really like the camera that captures the up-close images. I think you may have only had at most seven possible locations for the parts to be in line. I know you were close. You have replaced so many things on the tractor that I hope you keep it unless you find a really good deal with a trade. Have good days!
Your methods seem very systematic, it's unfortunate you weren't able to solve the problem.
You get an A+ for the effort though!
I have said it before, I LOVE your methodology!!!
Thanks!
I'm pretty sure the switch on the side of the dash is for the dome light.
I feel like you were so close to getting it figured out!
Super close! Got it figured out today. Tried one last thing
Half way into the video I wanted to shout at the screen "swap the hoses!" because that way if the problem is in the pump the problem will then move to the other side. I mean, it turned out to be, so you didn't miss much, but that way you would have been more sure of yourself before ever having to take the motor/pump back out. In the long run, I suspect a failed check valve.
mike you got lucky. my father years ago had the steering motor done up in our old tractor and when he re installed it he accidentally hooked the pressure line up to the wrong port and when the engine started it whipped full lock and snapped the shaft in the steering motor. I'm curious to hear what you issue is. 🤘
Good morning Mike!
Hi captain this is Gary I haven't watch your show in a couple of years it looks like you're doing pretty good I hope you're making some money
555 is wearing you down Captain😵💫 Time for a break 🤗🇺🇸
Thanks for the video.
Love your videos, dude. I know it's not easy or always possible and my only complaint bud is videos are too short 😅 wish there were longer but not always possibly sadly 😔 🤘👍
Hey I appreciate ya watching
well, you've rebuilt the engine, most all the hydralic jacks, you tag the wall time and again, but you dont give up, you'll get'er done do doubt, good luck
Mike can you get a good deal from Clint (C&C) to restore your Bac-oh! 🙂👍🇮🇪
🤦🏻♂️😆
great video Mike, hope you let us know what the problem was with the steering pump, and i hope it wasn't too expensive to get it fixed.👍👍👍👍👍
Good effort captain
Thanks!
Sorry to see you hit the wall after all you fought your way through so far on the donor backhoe - a fix will arrive I’m sure…
I think some of the zooms are too close, kind of loose the context of the unit or thing you're working on. Appreciate all the efforts, I know it isn't easy.
What seems to have happened is that age old conundrum Gremlin has invaded your workspace LOL I'm sure you will get it figured out and we will all gain knowledge from it. Your videos are always great best of luck captain
😂
Mike,you’re a mess.in the good way of course.great video as always,just keep doing your thing.be safe.great video 👍👍👍😎😎😎
Hi Mike & it's is Randy and i like yours video is Cool & Thanks Mike & Friends Randy
I’m guessing that even a brand new one will spin with air like yours is.
There’s probably just one simple little detail getting missed.
It’s almost the same as watching Wes work 😉😂
Some times we need to declare defeat when all else fails you have given all you best as always let’s us know if even the shop knows 👍👩✈️👋🇨🇦
Saw this guy who was doing 'will it run and drive' videos on new cars. I thought 'how stupid' until I noticed he was at a Jaguar dealership.
You tried and tried again ,that's important.
You mentioned the future of the Ford,and I think that you best solution would be to have your own 304 excavator and a 4x4 tractor with loader and accessories that gives you abilities,blade ,rotary slasher ,post rammer etc .
On your property a 4x4 is essential.
With a normal tractor you can tow a tip trailer for moving soil and rock about the property.
Even a bigger excavator than the 304 if possible,your abilities will be endless
I think I know what the problem is with your steering motor. I had a similar problem on a John Deere 2350 steering motor, except it would break your arm off when you started the tractor. The issue was with the timing of what Ford calls the Link Block and the Rotor. On the JD it is the alignment of the drive shaft and the rotor, with there being 6 correct alignments and 6 incorrect alignments. I just had to take it apart and index the rotor to the drive shaft (link block) one tooth. I have a picture of the JD manual, but you can't attach a picture to a comment. I really enjoy your videos and relate to your experiences. With regard to taking it to a shop, unless you find an old-timer that was good and experienced with these motors, there's a 50% chance they'll put it together incorrectly as well.
That was my thought as well. I ended up going and adjusting it at least four times. And the same result. Thats what is so frustrating at this point. All the things that people say are the issue hasn't been the problem this time around. I'm missing something, I just don't know what it is yet.
@@CaptainKleeman Maybe the Ford only has one correct alignment out of 12 possible positions (counting the teeth on the inside of the rotor). The JD doesn't have that offset pin on what I think you called the torsion bar in the video, so maybe this is why there is only one correct alignment. I still think the issue is the alignment of the gear teeth on the center shaft (torsion bar or link block or whatever it's called) and the gear teeth in the rotor. It looks like there is only one pair of teeth that line up with a pair of vanes on the rotor, but I have no idea what to align those with. I'm stubborn and hard headed, so I would just keep indexing until I found the correct position.
@@CaptainKleeman You might looking at Steve Watroba's TH-cam on a Ford 5000 steering valve repair, although I didn't see anything about alignment in his video. However, he did identify the unit as a Ross TRW Parker unit, and I did find a nice PDF service manual from Parker on one of their HGB series hydrostatic steering systems. You might try searching for Ross Parker documentation - maybe there is some identification on the housing so you know which one you have. There was some alignment information in the PDF I found. Wish I could help more, but good luck with it.
Not a failure. You are not a professional. You tried like nobodies business. Good job young man.
You the man bro! waaaaay more perseverance than me.
Remember the old saying "My Mike Can Do Anything". Save the 555 is just one more challenge.
What a shame, thought you had it. Bet though it's something really, really easy to fix. Look on the bright side, you fixed the charging issue and also have an engine heater ready for the Winter. 👍
Definitely good things!
I must say, somehow you mKe the dark a little brighter. Love watching you work and remember, if at first you dont succeed... get a bigger hammer.
If you turn left long enough you'll end up right 😊 🚜⚓️
Fair point
Dang, so close yet so far.
I am in the same predicament with a lift at the moment.
Hats off for trying so hard, but if the manual doesn’t say anything, you better run off to the casino here. I hope the hydraulic shop can help you with this, it would be nice if they fix it when you are able to watch to see what is wrong.
I really enjoyed watching but understand your frustration
There is a time to cut your losses and move on. I think you made the right call.
You were so close there Capt. Of course it is going to spin with air. What you wanted was the air coming out the RETURN LINE FOR THAT SIDE. Once you had it working both sides to the correct return you should have been there.
It should not spin with air. It should hold neutral and push air through the return just as it would with fluid.
@@CaptainKleeman Oops!!! Not really It would depend on the position of the steering wheel alignment. With the steering wheel "position" centered it should have no "flow" with it steering left it should go into the right cylinder and stop with the right return exhausting. When steering right you should get fluid (air) into the left input and left return should exhaust. The issue was that you did not have any stop points set on the shaft going to the steering wheel post. The two steering cylinders are the stops for both limits. Without stops it can surge past the end and catch another cycle over and over like you had. Maybe a welding rod through the bolt hole on the steering shaft would have worked as a limiter. Oh well, neither of us thought correctly the first round. still not sure I am thinking correct with that crazy double piston design when one (push/pull) would have been so much simpler.
Loom, sounds like boot (for your feet), you wrap around wires. Loam, sounds like boat (to float on the river), is a type of dirt.
Also, loom is part of/ complete weaving machine.
I believe you may have a house in the wrong port. Or something inside is misaligned, causing a slight bypass.
So what else got messed up when the commutator ring was broken? I worked fine before that incident. Something else got bent, broken, or misaligned somewhere I would think.
You have the pressure going into the wrong port. Just like a automotive steering box, if hooked up backwards, it will turn left automatically. Take care Captain.
Negative. Pressure is going to the correct port. Not only is it labeled on the port and the tech manual, the lines are hard lines that connect. No way to get them mixed up
@@CaptainKleeman something in that hand pump isn't timed right. That's why it's turning left. Yes it's a pun but it is also the issue.
@@CaptainKleeman ok, I was wrong. I swapped lines on a truck one time, and it did that turn left action.
@@CaptainKleeman Given how little force there is turning it left, I think you have leakage between the ports, is there a chance there's a gasket that could be allowing that?
Since you think you have it timed correct, maybe you are 180° off.
Top notch reverse engineering
Definitely curious as to what the fix is. I have the same problem, but not as bad. And it’s never been opened as far as I know. She just likes to turn on her own.
Dome. Ha! Would've never guessed
Electrical is my kryptonite. Needed to replace the in-tank fuel pump on my car. I didn't want to replace the entire assembly (pump, housing, pick up screen, fuel level float) for $300. So, I opted to just swap the pump itself for $30. It was a little bit of a pain to remove the old pump from the housing and put in the new. Reinstalled the assembly into the tank and gave it a start. Nothing. Had no fuel pressure. I knew the pump worked because I bench tested it before installing it. I ran jumper wires to bypass the harness, and the pump came on and the car ran. So, I checked to make sure the wires in the harness was good. Checked out! I became so frustrated; I took it to a shop and had them do their thing. The mechanic went through the steps and confirmed what I already knew. Then he pulled the assembly out and checked continuity for the wires in the assembly. 🤦♂ And there the problem was. There was a break in one of the wires. When the harness was plugged in, the pin moved, and the wire lost connection at the break. When the harness was unplugged, the break was connected, and jumper wire alligator clips didn't put pressure on the pin to move. 🤷♂
The removal of the old pump was difficult and when it jerked out of the tight collar that held it in place, it stopped suddenly when the wires fully extended, causing the wire to break. What sucks is you can't disconnect the wires until the pump is pulled out of the collar. 😠 The mechanic told me that it is recommended that you replace the entire assembly. Granted, the housing, screen, and fuel level float were in excellent condition for being 13 years old. But now that the wire is broke, and you can't replace or fix the wires since they are inside the housing with just enough sticking outside to connect to the pump. I have no choice to replace the entire assembly. He was kind enough to charge me just for the 15 minutes of labor and not a full hour, plus the cost of the new assembly at his discounted price which was $120. When the pump came in, I picked it up and installed it myself. I took the old housing with replacement pump to him so he could repurpose the pump. It was used in a variety of cars, and he had one that needed that particular pump, which was much easier to remove and install than on my car.
You gave it your all Mike but sometimes you are the Bug and sometimes the windshield....this time you were the Bug.
When it comes to hydraulics, I put them in the class of Automatic transmissions and wiring. Black Magic best left to better people. I can do pretty much everything else mechanical/welding/basic metalwork/machining, but those are a no go. My pea brain just can't make them make sense.
😂
From experience, I would tend to believe you are hooked to a wrong port. Look over your port hook ups. Good news, nothing leaks any more, your winning the race, think of it as a marathon. Thanks for the update, enjoy watching.
Ports are correct
@@CaptainKleeman so much for that thought🙄😂