wow! ... I'm in Australia and I would fly these guys over and put them up in local accommodation to build my house! The attention to detail and engineering is as good as I've ever seen. The fact that they add those extra noggins for each sheet is fantastic!
Brilliant advice , clearly spoken and superbly well executed. I'll never get it as millimetre perfect and will take 6 times longer but thanks to you fellows, there won't be any howlers!
Great work as ever. Your attention to detail is second to none. Hope your customers appreciate what a professional job they are getting. Thanks for sharing. All the best Pete 👍👍
Guys I am doing a bathroom floor 2:20 which screws are you using is it 4.5x60 stainless for wet areas or are the standard decking screws ok any help appreciated thanks
Make a jig from a 600mm strip of thin straight timber, mark on the centres for your screws, (you were using 200 spacing) then just line up with your mark on the wall (starter mark for previous laid board) and joist. Saves having to mark the board with a pencil line and measure for each screw. Hope that helps. Great videos, keep up the good work.
However they are working to the NHBC standard. If you need to lay new pipes or wiring a strip of floor will gave to be cut out. To be honest, just as it does with the old T&G floorboards. At least is now easy to drill the joists and cable the new pipes through.
Its impressive to see such precise way of working but its a given a future owner is going to want to make alterations, I just dont like how this way of building is a one time thing.
I think everyone Appreciates the skill and precision that goes into fitting this very well, however I do agree that chipboard/osb board flooring is the worst shortcut ever for flooring. I’ve tried to lift osb boards up for underfloor alterations and it’s a nightmare. This stuff is weak and like cardboard. I’ve never had an issue lifting floorboards either t/g or flat.
great video. I am about to start laying my chipboard flooring and need to add noggings to support the edges. What exact screws and dimensions did you use when angle screwing them into place? any tips making sure I do it properly as I want them to be structurally sound and joist hangers are crazy expensive.
Glad you enjoyed the video. The spacers are to allow for any movement which may take place. If everything was tight, it may cause issues with buckling. It also helps with the installation, as you need a bit of space to fit the tongue into the groove. Hope this helps. All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
My house had these floors in. Squeaked like hell. I pulled it up, glued down with caberfix D4 and them exact spax screws. I can't even describe the difference. Unreal
NHBC standards say the floor need’s perimeter noggings. Any tips on how to secure the timber to the brick wall for this purpose? Like what specific screws and wall plugs I should use, how many and what distance apart. Between my joists there are spaces ranging from 18-33cm.
Another great team of artisans,Joe and team,laying what may seem mundane but is truly important using quality materials,Spax screws and D4 glue,producing a quality job with quality builders A&E. A&E truly do seem to draw in the best builders skilful and craftsmen and have a huge pride in their work. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the great video. I would have been really interested to see how you measure, scribe, cut and fit the final row of boards - where you had to cut the boards down lengthwise to fill the remaining gap. Looks like you had to cut them to fit a wonky wall, around some pipes and a brick pier, would love to see another video on how you do that trickier part of the job in future. Thanks!
Brilliant video,i am busy putting 22mm flooring down now but when finished it will be roughlyc20mm lowercthan ajoiningvfloor so needcto build up ,could you advise on best way to do it,ie plywood sheet and how to fix down,screw,nail.? Many thanks would appreciate any guidance.4
As always a spot on. Well timed ahead of our extension. Do use the same 60mm screws for all the noggin work when going in at angle are longer ones needed?
You only notice dirty windows not clean ones, and in the same way, people only notice squeaky floor boards not quiet ones. The main difference being that squeaky floor boards can drive you mad and can be difficult to remedy. Another job properly executed by Team A&E that will leave their customer without the future inconvenience of a noisy floor. Well done boys. Cheers.
Hi Tall Carpenter hope you are well and busy, so true about what people notice, that would be up there first three have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Kudos to you for doing it properly. My house is only 20 years old and every single floor squeaks. The whole lot is going to have to be redone. Even some of the stud walls creak as I walk around my kitchen!
Great video build with A & E are true professionals they go above and beyond. You can tell that Tony is a true professional of his trade keep up the good work stay safe 🛠⚒👍👍👍
Wow what a professional job well done lads, my house floors were laid by one of the nations biggest house builders Persimone. lots of squeaks, say no more enjoy the videos keep up the good work
Hi, I absolutely love this video as it's very informative and I would really like to implement this in my 3 bed semi-detached. Can I ask, If I've got plastering and skimming to do (middle of a reno) would it be better to get this done, then plaster and skim then have my flooring fitted? or swap the first two items around? Thanks in Advance
@@BuildWithAE I've seen different thicknesses of these boards. I'm trying your approach for a few rooms in my home. would 22mm be fine for bedrooms or shall I go thicker? and is 18mm sufficient for a loft? Lastly what screws did you use for your noggins? cheers
Im doing a bit of a garage conversion. The garage floor (concrete) needs raising up to the level of the kithen diner to be one whole room. So il be doing something very similer, joist hangers 4x3s, chipboard, then whatever flooring we choose, LVT probably. Anyway, my question, how would you insulate? I imagine i want a void underneth the insulation. So something on the underside of the frame to then hold the "wool" insulation? Or battons on the underside, with rigid foam insulation?
If you put the first piece down with the tongue facing the other way, when you go to tap the next piece in you are going to be tapping against the groove & not the tongue. Preventing any damage and avoids chances of slipping yeah?
Did my bathroom floor like that. An old imperial 2 x 3 joists and with a tiled floor going over the top I didn't want any movement (or squeaks!). A bit OTT, but even without boards the floor wasn't going anywhere. Worth the extra time and effort to make the job as good as it can be.
Nice vid but quick question - Seems excessive with the noggins where the board would fit into the groove of the adjacent board. Would you do this with T&G floorboards?
Hi Haroon we do support all connections, as I say in the video it’s just what we do and it doesn’t take that much time to do and we feel it’s a better job, with thin pine floor boards then no hope this helps have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
As the saying goes "buy cheap, buy twice." Budget fixings aren't always bad, but we like to spend a little extra for a higher quality. Thanks for watching. All the best, John 😊
One of the best chip board flooring videos out there, i never nail my boards but a roofer recently told me the reason why roofs are commonly nailed is because nails will flex and move with the roof and screws can snap. That’s why it’s best to screw boards down 🔥🔫
I can't fully see what glue you are using but it looks like a D4 white pva glue. For something under dynamic loads like a floor it's better to use a glue that stays flexible like a pu construction adhesive for the floorboards. Pva glue tends to be brittle when dry. So with movement from the wood floor or over time slight settling of the building, it can break loose and still go noisy, while a flexible glue will move with -and dampen the floor. Not a big issue to use pva, but just a tip.
Excellent video, one of the best ones out there!!👍🏻Provides a good starting point for my bedroom sqeaky floor replacement and soundproofing. I am cutting the existing 22mm chipboard along the edges of the wall, take up the old chipboard and install the new one. Additional noggings to be added, along with glue and screw. In your opinion, do I need to add 3mm expension gap where the old & new chipboard connects? Many thanks in advance!
You could mark joist centre or board edges on the opposite wall where the joist ends go into the wall, Just come up vertically. Then snap a chalk line or pencil your line in once the last board is in. Any marks will be covered by plasterers or boards, even on ready plastered walls any marks covered by skirting.
Hi Steven string line across the joists glue and screw to the side of the existing joist 6 x 2 all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week oh make sure existing joist are good and solid
Do you have a video on replacing chipboard flooring? Mine built in the 80s is squeaky and creaking, I’m torn between ripping it up or screwing near the nails
Lovely job lads, do you have to lap the boards by exactly half? I'm going to be laying my own soon just trying to get a bit of knowledge in the brain haha. Been a bricklayer for years but when it comes to woodwork it's all new stuff to me. xD
This is a great video and really helped me for laying my sister joint levelled floor in my 1850s house,l. just wish my main old joists didn’t run out/be at different distances/subsiding with the house, literally have to measure each individual one :(
Hi Neil it is so important to us all to have a honest and impartial view on everything that we do, thanks for your kind words all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Hi mate, great video. Love the attention to detail, going to be building a double extension on mine this summer hopefully when the plans come through. What size joists do you use and what centre's would you usually use? The extension is going to be 6.8x2.6. I'm an electrician by trade but just trying to get as many ideas as I can. I was thinking of using 200mm x 47mm C24 timbers. Thanks for making videos, they're very helpful. Cheers.
Hi AJS much appreciated I would use a 195mm x 70mm C24 personally but you can check on the Trada Timber joist and rafter table online all the best Tony 👍
Hi Uscias they are Lateral Restraint Straps that screw to the top of the Roof Wall Plate and screw to the inner block work all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Interesting video and clearly very conscientious tradesmen which is good to see. I assume you add insulation/ sound proofing from underneath before the ceiling in the room below is completed? We ended up having every upstairs room done in our house as there was zero insulation or sound proofing. It was appalling to say the very least. Clearly the building company did a shoddy job. To our utter frustration, the floors still creak though (so far no tradesman has been able to fix it). We're used to having solid concrete floors with underfloor heating/ cooling throughout every floor in the house. No creaks and superb sound insulation.
Hi Tom I haven’t done site work for along time now and it would be sad to know that Barrett’s did that hopefully not but that might be down to the specification or site agent or even the contractors doing the job it’s a hard call, personally I feel it’s up to the contractor to say no this is below sub standard what would be expected get some one else to do it if that’s the case we should make everyone accountable so it promotes good workmanship thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week Definitely a podcast debate coming up
I do this my self on my own to an extent But contract for a lot of builders they wouldn’t pay for the extra time this consumes. Just floated joints with plenty of glue and screws! No come backs 10 years 🤞
Video saved for when I need it. Question for.you - if you were to insulate it, would you have 100mm pir flush against the chipboard? Or would it be 100mm pir, 50mm air gap then chipboard? Would you use some form of vapour barrier in either situations? Also, would.you recommend insulating just the ground floor? Or every level? Another great vid lads, well done! Ps 18 or 22mm?
The Caber manual doesnt specify the long edge to be nogged (splint) , I like the long edge splints. Not to be confused with joist rigidity noggins by the way. After I glued I found the glue easy to remove from the joist with a sharp edge, with no damage to the joist. My answer would be cut with circular saw set to 21.5mm, do cut then run sharp chisel down what left or careful routing. Be advised nogging the long edges on the house Im doing at the moment adds £500 to the floor timber cost using 4 by 2. P5 T& G is about £20 a sheet today.
I love when that glue drys on my fingers. It's something to peel off when you've a break. 😂 It's only a form of PVA anyway. Have you ever used acoustic joist tape without the need for gluing to the joists? It's cheap as chips and absorbs some of the impact sound too.
Hi Stephen 😂 I must confess when talking about timber I find it easier to talk inches same when working on roofs convert to both inches and metric, we were only talking about this yesterday how we say timber and they say lumber both cool words have a great week all the best Tony 👍
Great to see proper, caring builders who know what they are doing and cutting corners is not an option. Bravo gents.
Its not cutting corners not too. The Chipboard 18mm or 22mm is structurally loaded to make sure it can take the point load without a noggin.
Fantastic work guys and very clearly demonstrated 👍🏼
wow! ... I'm in Australia and I would fly these guys over and put them up in local accommodation to build my house! The attention to detail and engineering is as good as I've ever seen. The fact that they add those extra noggins for each sheet is fantastic!
Brilliant advice , clearly spoken and superbly well executed. I'll never get it as millimetre perfect and will take 6 times longer but thanks to you fellows, there won't be any howlers!
The chipboard under that behemoth stack of plasterboard is under such pressure it’s turned into bloody diamond!! 💎
Very very good video. Thank you very much.
Great work as ever. Your attention to detail is second to none. Hope your customers appreciate what a professional job they are getting. Thanks for sharing. All the best Pete 👍👍
Hi Pete thanks for your kind words, they are awesome clients couldn’t ask for better have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Thanks for the help on the floor guys. Those screws work like a charm. All the best.
We've just taken on a mammoth renovation project, and Ive got all of this to do! Really helpful, especially using quality screws and glue. Thanks.
Top quality advice from top quality craftsmen. Thank you
Guys I am doing a bathroom floor 2:20 which screws are you using is it 4.5x60 stainless for wet areas or are the standard decking screws ok any help appreciated thanks
Make a jig from a 600mm strip of thin straight timber, mark on the centres for your screws, (you were using 200 spacing) then just line up with your mark on the wall (starter mark for previous laid board) and joist. Saves having to mark the board with a pencil line and measure for each screw. Hope that helps. Great videos, keep up the good work.
God help the person who has to uplift or has to put other services at a later date!
Just what I was thinking!
However they are working to the NHBC standard.
If you need to lay new pipes or wiring a strip of floor will gave to be cut out. To be honest, just as it does with the old T&G floorboards. At least is now easy to drill the joists and cable the new pipes through.
Its impressive to see such precise way of working but its a given a future owner is going to want to make alterations, I just dont like how this way of building is a one time thing.
I think everyone Appreciates the skill and precision that goes into fitting this very well, however I do agree that chipboard/osb board flooring is the worst shortcut ever for flooring.
I’ve tried to lift osb boards up for underfloor alterations and it’s a nightmare. This stuff is weak and like cardboard. I’ve never had an issue lifting floorboards either t/g or flat.
great video. I am about to start laying my chipboard flooring and need to add noggings to support the edges. What exact screws and dimensions did you use when angle screwing them into place? any tips making sure I do it properly as I want them to be structurally sound and joist hangers are crazy expensive.
5 x 70 or 80mm
Brilliant video. So helpful. Total beginner here about to attempt DIY floor. Can i ask why you need spacers at the edges? TIA
Glad you enjoyed the video. The spacers are to allow for any movement which may take place. If everything was tight, it may cause issues with buckling. It also helps with the installation, as you need a bit of space to fit the tongue into the groove.
Hope this helps.
All the best, John 👷🏻♂️
Thanks for this video guys! I’m about to lay a load of this so this instruction has come in handy.
My house had these floors in. Squeaked like hell. I pulled it up, glued down with caberfix D4 and them exact spax screws.
I can't even describe the difference. Unreal
NHBC standards say the floor need’s perimeter noggings. Any tips on how to secure the timber to the brick wall for this purpose? Like what specific screws and wall plugs I should use, how many and what distance apart. Between my joists there are spaces ranging from 18-33cm.
Very very good; never seen a chippy do such good carful work on a new build; i would employ him every day of the week
Hi Hold Publishing Joe is an amazing apprentice and will make a fine tradesmen thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome weekend
Always blown away by what good teachers you guys are. So much good information shared in every video 👏🏻👏🏻
Many thanks 😎👍
Best video I've seen with the information thank you x
Top video lads, really helpful and informative!
Another great team of artisans,Joe and team,laying what may seem mundane but is truly important using quality materials,Spax screws and D4 glue,producing a quality job with quality builders A&E. A&E truly do seem to draw in the best builders skilful and craftsmen and have a huge pride in their work. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for the kind words Maria, take care 👍
Thanks for the great video. I would have been really interested to see how you measure, scribe, cut and fit the final row of boards - where you had to cut the boards down lengthwise to fill the remaining gap. Looks like you had to cut them to fit a wonky wall, around some pipes and a brick pier, would love to see another video on how you do that trickier part of the job in future. Thanks!
Lovely work, a pleasure to see quailty work! Can never have too many noggins.
Many thanks! 👍
Brilliant video,i am busy putting 22mm flooring down now but when finished it will be roughlyc20mm lowercthan ajoiningvfloor so needcto build up ,could you advise on best way to do it,ie plywood sheet and how to fix down,screw,nail.?
Many thanks would appreciate any guidance.4
I assume you cannot help
Have no answers
Pair of kno#s
As always a spot on. Well timed ahead of our extension. Do use the same 60mm screws for all the noggin work when going in at angle are longer ones needed?
You only notice dirty windows not clean ones, and in the same way, people only notice squeaky floor boards not quiet ones. The main difference being that squeaky floor boards can drive you mad and can be difficult to remedy. Another job properly executed by Team A&E that will leave their customer without the future inconvenience of a noisy floor. Well done boys. Cheers.
Hi Tall Carpenter hope you are well and busy, so true about what people notice, that would be up there first three have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
What if you ever need to lift the floor to do some remedial work?
Kudos to you for doing it properly. My house is only 20 years old and every single floor squeaks. The whole lot is going to have to be redone. Even some of the stud walls creak as I walk around my kitchen!
Great video build with A & E are true professionals they go above and beyond.
You can tell that Tony is a true professional of his trade keep up the good work stay safe 🛠⚒👍👍👍
Many thanks Isabel! Take care 👍
Great advice and instructions are clear and concise. Away to do my lounge and dining room in the next month or so.
Glad it was helpful! Hope the work all goes well for you Kevin. All the best! 👍
Wow what a professional job well done lads, my house floors were laid by one of the nations biggest house builders Persimone.
lots of squeaks, say no more enjoy the videos keep up the good work
Glad you enjoyed it Ronald, hope you have a great weekend! 👍
Great video love watching your videos you give really good tips nice job guys take care
Many thanks for the kind words Kenny! 😎👍
Nice one Tony, great video! We do it the same way. I am also a fan of ironmongery direct! 👍
Thanks James! Take care 👍
@James King can you please start making your own videos. Your always brilliant on skill builder.
Great video, it would also help if you have given a link to buy the screws and glue.
Excellent video thank you. Just wondering why leave the 10mm gap between floor board and wall?
Thanks
Thanks for the great video!
Great video. Nicely explained too
Hi, I absolutely love this video as it's very informative and I would really like to implement this in my 3 bed semi-detached. Can I ask, If I've got plastering and skimming to do (middle of a reno) would it be better to get this done, then plaster and skim then have my flooring fitted? or swap the first two items around?
Thanks in Advance
Hi either way really just don’t get the boards wet And open windows ajar if there is a nice breeze once scimmed all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE I've seen different thicknesses of these boards. I'm trying your approach for a few rooms in my home. would 22mm be fine for bedrooms or shall I go thicker? and is 18mm sufficient for a loft? Lastly what screws did you use for your noggins? cheers
Im doing a bit of a garage conversion. The garage floor (concrete) needs raising up to the level of the kithen diner to be one whole room. So il be doing something very similer, joist hangers 4x3s, chipboard, then whatever flooring we choose, LVT probably.
Anyway, my question, how would you insulate? I imagine i want a void underneth the insulation. So something on the underside of the frame to then hold the "wool" insulation? Or battons on the underside, with rigid foam insulation?
Another thorough job guys. Well done.
Glad you enjoyed it Jeff 😎👍
Great video and how nice to be able to understand the whole process. Keep it up.
Hi Keith we always try and capture everything we are glad you enjoyed the video all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
If you put the first piece down with the tongue facing the other way, when you go to tap the next piece in you are going to be tapping against the groove & not the tongue. Preventing any damage and avoids chances of slipping yeah?
Did my bathroom floor like that. An old imperial 2 x 3 joists and with a tiled floor going over the top I didn't want any movement (or squeaks!). A bit OTT, but even without boards the floor wasn't going anywhere. Worth the extra time and effort to make the job as good as it can be.
Nice vid but quick question - Seems excessive with the noggins where the board would fit into the groove of the adjacent board. Would you do this with T&G floorboards?
Hi Haroon we do support all connections, as I say in the video it’s just what we do and it doesn’t take that much time to do and we feel it’s a better job, with thin pine floor boards then no hope this helps have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Learnt my lesson buying screws stopped buying the cheap toolstation screws in red and blue box few years ago and defo worth paying extra
As the saying goes "buy cheap, buy twice." Budget fixings aren't always bad, but we like to spend a little extra for a higher quality.
Thanks for watching.
All the best, John 😊
What screws did you use to secure the noggins ?
Very thorough. Nice!
One of the best chip board flooring videos out there, i never nail my boards but a roofer recently told me the reason why roofs are commonly nailed is because nails will flex and move with the roof and screws can snap. That’s why it’s best to screw boards down 🔥🔫
Thanks for watching FB 👍
Nice detailed video as ever chaps 🧱👍🏼
Thanks guys hope you are all well all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
@@BuildWithAE 🧱👍🏽
Thank you for this! Such an informative video, you’ve helped me a lot!
Another well presented video with lots of fantastic tips well done. Thank you.
Hi Afzul thanks for your kind words have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
I can't fully see what glue you are using but it looks like a D4 white pva glue. For something under dynamic loads like a floor it's better to use a glue that stays flexible like a pu construction adhesive for the floorboards. Pva glue tends to be brittle when dry. So with movement from the wood floor or over time slight settling of the building, it can break loose and still go noisy, while a flexible glue will move with -and dampen the floor. Not a big issue to use pva, but just a tip.
Hi guy's, that'll be a hell of a good floor when it's finished, full mark's for a proper job, stay safe, best wishe's to you and your's, Stuart.uk.
Thanks Stuart 👍
great video plenty of tips
Excellent video, one of the best ones out there!!👍🏻Provides a good starting point for my bedroom sqeaky floor replacement and soundproofing. I am cutting the existing 22mm chipboard along the edges of the wall, take up the old chipboard and install the new one. Additional noggings to be added, along with glue and screw. In your opinion, do I need to add 3mm expension gap where the old & new chipboard connects?
Many thanks in advance!
You could mark joist centre or board edges on the opposite wall where the joist ends go into the wall, Just come up vertically. Then snap a chalk line or pencil your line in once the last board is in. Any marks will be covered by plasterers or boards, even on ready plastered walls any marks covered by skirting.
Great video, will be using your tips on my next project. Any advice to correct an uneven floor (joists) prior to laying the board? Thanks
Hi Steven string line across the joists glue and screw to the side of the existing joist 6 x 2 all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week oh make sure existing joist are good and solid
@@BuildWithAE Yes makes sense to bring any low ones up. Thanks for the advice.
Brilliant video
👍👍
I use those Spax flooring screws for everything, they're awesome.
They really are! Have a great week Dan 👍
Do you have a video on replacing chipboard flooring? Mine built in the 80s is squeaky and creaking, I’m torn between ripping it up or screwing near the nails
I couldnt tell from the video - do you need to stagger these?
Is that yes?
Great building tutorial once again lads
Glad you enjoyed it Ian, have a cracking weekend 👍
Have you done a video on the joists and wall plate? Why is their 10mm behind the wall plate?
To allow cables for sockets to be dropped down, saves chasing wall, proper way to do the job, the way I was taught,but I rarely seen it done.
@@stuartandrews4344 how is it spaced off the wall? With some sort of packer?
Lovely job lads, do you have to lap the boards by exactly half?
I'm going to be laying my own soon just trying to get a bit of knowledge in the brain haha.
Been a bricklayer for years but when it comes to woodwork it's all new stuff to me. xD
Nice few tips picked up from this tutorial, many thanks.
Hi Marco we are glad it was helpful all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
This is a great video and really helped me for laying my sister joint levelled floor in my 1850s house,l. just wish my main old joists didn’t run out/be at different distances/subsiding with the house, literally have to measure each individual one :(
And then the plumber & electrician come in & rip it all up!
😂😂😂😂
Poor planning then, they should have been in before the flooring was put down!
Good on you for giving honest impartial advice on the consumables especially given your sponsor. Loving the content - keep up the good work.
Hi Neil it is so important to us all to have a honest and impartial view on everything that we do, thanks for your kind words all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Great video lads and quality work 👍 I couldn’t quite see the gauge and length of the screws and make of the glue? Can you post the details, thanks.
Hi Glynn they are Spax 60mm chipboard screws and D4 glue all the best Tony 👍
What were the screws used please? Any advice on a ratio of board depth to screw length?
Hi Jacob Spax Chip board screws 4.5 x 60mm all the best Tony 👍
Refreshing to see a company carry out good through work on all your projects.
Great videos.
Justin brickright 👍
Hi Justin much appreciated have a awesome holiday break all the best Tony 👍
@@BuildWithAE
Thanks Tony same to you and family keep the videos coming.
Justin brickright 👍
Great educational vid guys keep it up
Thanks Ben, have an awesome weekend 👍
Nice one Tony, Joe. 👌🏼🏴👍🏼
Hey Rob thanks man all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
THANK YOU GREAT VIDEO.
Glad you liked it! Have a great week! 👍
Hi mate, great video. Love the attention to detail, going to be building a double extension on mine this summer hopefully when the plans come through. What size joists do you use and what centre's would you usually use? The extension is going to be 6.8x2.6.
I'm an electrician by trade but just trying to get as many ideas as I can. I was thinking of using 200mm x 47mm C24 timbers.
Thanks for making videos, they're very helpful. Cheers.
Hi AJS much appreciated I would use a 195mm x 70mm C24 personally but you can check on the Trada Timber joist and rafter table online all the best Tony 👍
youse boys do everything right. good to see! question: what is the purpose of the metal ties or fixings on the new thermal block wall behind?
Hi Uscias they are Lateral Restraint Straps that screw to the top of the Roof Wall Plate and screw to the inner block work all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Pu glue and nail gun 65mm ringshanks job done.
How to repair creaky chipboard ? Can u do vid on this?
Interesting video and clearly very conscientious tradesmen which is good to see. I assume you add insulation/ sound proofing from underneath before the ceiling in the room below is completed?
We ended up having every upstairs room done in our house as there was zero insulation or sound proofing. It was appalling to say the very least. Clearly the building company did a shoddy job. To our utter frustration, the floors still creak though (so far no tradesman has been able to fix it).
We're used to having solid concrete floors with underfloor heating/ cooling throughout every floor in the house. No creaks and superb sound insulation.
Great work as always guys
Hi Colin thanks man have a awesome week all the best Tony 👍
Great work. I wish Barratts would do the same. They just put a bit of glue down with a few paslode nails. Then wonder why the all the floors squeak.
Hi Tom I haven’t done site work for along time now and it would be sad to know that Barrett’s did that hopefully not but that might be down to the specification or site agent or even the contractors doing the job it’s a hard call, personally I feel it’s up to the contractor to say no this is below sub standard what would be expected get some one else to do it if that’s the case we should make everyone accountable so it promotes good workmanship thanks for watching all the best Tony 👍 have a awesome week
Definitely a podcast debate coming up
Very helpful
Glad it helped, thanks for watching! 👍
Another brilliant job guys, good thing the weather can’t stop you👍🏽🙌🏽
Thanks Kieren! Take care 👍
I do this my self on my own to an extent
But contract for a lot of builders they wouldn’t pay for the extra time this consumes.
Just floated joints with plenty of glue and screws!
No come backs 10 years 🤞
Video saved for when I need it. Question for.you - if you were to insulate it, would you have 100mm pir flush against the chipboard? Or would it be 100mm pir, 50mm air gap then chipboard? Would you use some form of vapour barrier in either situations? Also, would.you recommend insulating just the ground floor? Or every level?
Another great vid lads, well done! Ps 18 or 22mm?
The Caber manual doesnt specify the long edge to be nogged (splint) , I like the long edge splints. Not to be confused with joist rigidity noggins by the way. After I glued I found the glue easy to remove from the joist with a sharp edge, with no damage to the joist. My answer would be cut with circular saw set to 21.5mm, do cut then run sharp chisel down what left or careful routing. Be advised nogging the long edges on the house Im doing at the moment adds £500 to the floor timber cost using 4 by 2. P5 T& G is about £20 a sheet today.
I want to live in a house that you guys have built........ it will be Solid and last for Ever..
A&E: Use plenty of noggins to stop the squeeking!
Chipboard T&G’s: *Am I a joke to you?*
Good builders 👍👍👍
Good job guys glue and screw good strong job 🏴
Thanks for the support as always Yorwerth! Take care 👍
Never mentioned staggering the boards (joints ) which is important too.
I love when that glue drys on my fingers. It's something to peel off when you've a break. 😂 It's only a form of PVA anyway. Have you ever used acoustic joist tape without the need for gluing to the joists? It's cheap as chips and absorbs some of the impact sound too.
Hi Stephen that’s a great shout will look on line, I know what you mean about the glue 😂 all the best Tony 👍
The acoustic resilient tape is great. Used it on my joists and have no squeaking anywhere 👍
is the glue really needed ?
Holy cow!! I wonder how much that stack of plasterboard weighs?
Hi Phil a lot I was so tired after moving onto the site 😂 good job we had 7 x 3 xC24 joist as well
Thanks for watching all the the best Tony 👍
Great video lads . But 2 by 4s ! Don’t be going all American on us 😂
Hi Stephen 😂 I must confess when talking about timber I find it easier to talk inches same when working on roofs convert to both inches and metric, we were only talking about this yesterday how we say timber and they say lumber both cool words have a great week all the best Tony 👍
I’ve always said 4 by 2 not the other way around
@@bensmith3613 yea that’s what I was getting at . It’s always the big number first in the UK , as far as I’m aware .
@@bensmith3613 same here.
foaming glue usually only needs nailing on first set of boards
Great jobs guys but I reckon it would be more cost effective to just install pine t and g floorboards
Not when you account for two screws at every joist on every board.
Love the belt and braces approach above and beyond what's needed.
Many thanks for watching PDS! Take care 👍
@@BuildWithAE what about for the noggins?