Lucky lad to get your hands on floorboards . Can’t get any anywhere Egger are drip feeding everyone . It’s a brilliant product by the way far superior than Caber
Another meticulously planned and professionally executed job, you are a real credit to your profession. Interestingly, PU glue must have moisture to cure properly with the moisture content of the air usually sufficient to reach an acceptable bond. This adhesion or bond can be improved by atomising water on the P5 board joint prior to fixing. This helps the glue properly penetrate the board fibres and also ensures the PU to reach maximum cure and strength. That’s why it sticks to your skin so enthusiastically due to moisture or perspiration. Atomising takes longer and some would say is too fussy but it certainly makes a strength difference and also makes the finished job far more moisture resistant which is never a bad idea in an potential ingress situation like a bathroom. Just a thought!
Good to see how this floor should be laid properly. I had a friend who bought a new build and had them back out numerous times for the squeaky and lifting flooring. They never did resolve it and I can see why as they probably didn't use the correct glue or in the quantity that you should be using it. If I were 30 years younger I'd love to have you as a mentor. Great work ethic.
@Robin Clevett . Nice work, text book as always. You've clearly got to that point where your reputation (earned) gets you the work where the customers want quality rather than speed and lowest price. Best way to be, cos there's always some guy who goes in cheaper, even if he's losing money long term
I've said this before but will say it again.....You are an absolute pleasure to watch. You are a real genuine tradesman that takes pride in what you do. The quality of your work is on another level very few people reach. I agree with others when they say, anyone working as an apprentice with you has got the best mentor money can buy. Always held you in very high regard. Its an absolute pleasure when I see you've posted new videos and that notification bell has been highlighted. What more can I say apart from, keep these videos coming. Thanks Robin..
What i am saying is my enquires with 3 technical people from adhesive, Schluter and board makers say not to tile directly on to P4 and 5 boards. Infact one even stated that it should be plyed over. Stick that in your pipe and smoke it.
Why do you need an expansion gap, if the sheets are glued to the joists they can't expand or the glue joint will break, also is the gap between the insulation and the sheets important?
nice big garden room ... wish all floors were this easy to do Curious, why go for top of the line chipboard when you can use 18mm OSB3? I guess this looks nicer but it's a subfloor so no-one will see it. The OSB is the same size, same if not greater strength and the same water resistance. Then if you are after water resistance same question about cement board. Why egger protect instead of a cement board ( Hardie or ever an insulated one ).
Superb job as ever!! Would this flooring be good to replace normal 22mm chipboard in my bathroom refurb? I'm fitting an Impey aqua dec, and the entire floor will be tanked once it's down, then fitted with ProGrid UFH decoupling mat and finally tiled. I was going to use marine ply, but finding 22mm is impossible plus it's £130 for an 8x4!! 😳
Brilliant video,i am busy putting 22mm flooring down now but when finished it will be roughlyc20mm lowercthan ajoiningvfloor so needcto build up ,could you advise on best way to do it,ie plywood sheet and how to fix down,screw,nail.? Many thanks would appreciate any guidance.
Hi Robin, it looks like you left the excess glue on the joints without cleaning them off. Is that part of the process to allow the glue to fully cure? To be cut out after? Really love the channel and videos. Fantastic work.
Hi Daniel, This allows the floor to be water proof for the duration of the build, then after the roof is on you just use a decent flat scraper and it comes off, I also like to inspect that we have an even glue distribution everywhere after we are all fitted
I had many calls in the past where people have asked me why their floors are squeaking not long after having new flooring laid on top of mew chipboard or ply. Every time it’s the sub floor where the chippy hasn’t pre drilled a pilot hole and the screw worms off the joist 1/2mm then over time a squeak starts, very annoying but it’s costly to the client to pay to have it all done again and 9 times out of 10 the culprit will not be accountable.
Do it right, do it once! Few things more annoying than a messy builder, filth and crap everywhere, a clean tidy job is better for everyone and usually means a quality result.
When I'm doing decking or garden buildings I use 400mm centres on the floor joists, am I wasting my time?! Do you not get a bit of bounce at 600 centres? Love the channel by the way, great work. Cheers, Bob Rogers.
robin ,,, just wondering what carpenters pencils you would recommend,,, also how do you choose to sharpen them i.e with a knife or the required sharpener if its for the flat ones,,,, the ones i seem to have the lead keeps breaking after they have been sharpened,,, they were cheap so obviously you get what you pay for,, if you could send me in the right direction i would be grateful,,, ps good informative videos ,, keep up the good work thanks scott
Just got back from sorting out a floor on a 30 year old house. Joints not supported, no glue, copper pipes rubbing on boards, ring shank nails worked loose, appalling squeaks everywhere. If the developer had invested a few hours in doing it properly like you did the owner would have avoided years of awful noise and saved me three days grovelling about on hands and knees. I see you working steadily, tidily, not cutting corners and the end result is a permanent high quality solution. Me trying to build the quality in afterwards is a very expensive and only marginal solution that should not have been needed at all.
If anyone can answer my questions would greatly appreciate the help. 1) Will start making similar floor to be used as gym. Which is stronger surface Egger Protect or same thickness structural Plywood with same fixings and adhesive? 2) Vapor barrier under floor or not and why? I've seen plenty videos for colder climate where they use vapor layer under floor etc...
@@paulamblerart what do you mean? Stack the boards against the furthest away wall Slide a couple of boards off to walk on and move them around as necessary. Beats walking along the joists all day. Work smart not hard mrs ambler
@@mrsbradpittiful "...Mrs?...ya cheeky bastard!...yeah....get`s ya drifties I suppose...hadn`t really thought through my `you haven`t really thought this through` comment..." X=0I
I don't really understand what the 10mm gap is for. Expansion? If so would there be much movement being glued and screwed? Or is the 10mm gap for something else.?
Lovely to watch for a rough old trowel. I was thinking the other day when I was using my impact driver, what are the db's of impact drivers? I know you are very conscious of protecting your hearing. I fear for the scaffolders who use them all day on steel, the noise must be above safe limits. Perhaps a video?
Great video Robin, Do you prefer the Metabo plunge saw to the Festool....? As i know from your videos on skill build that you love Fesstool plunge saws....?
I really like this saw, my festool is mains powered so in this instance being able to work cordless was a great advantage, it was two dodgy to run leads to the main property as we where having terrible weather!! This saw and dust extractor from @metabo is totally cord free!! And it's a great saw too!
@@ukconstruction That's a very good point. I am however afraid of rodents will like it too. If they could come in, that is. Do you install special measures that will not happen?
Installing the flooring like this means you can't put an EDPM over the floor base. How are you able to prevent moisture coming up to the flooring? Is it just via sealing the insulation to the base joists?
Robin, what are your thoughts on glueing down floorboards. Is that the way forward?? Many contractors don’t like doing it in case there’s an issue and they need to open up the floorboard again. I can see their point. We used No More Ply concrete boards instead of normal floorboards in our renovation. I glued them down and then screwed them in too. I just fear that in 5-10-15 years when I want to update/check something, I won’t be able to take the boards off without damaging them.
I know its meant to be a 10mm expansion gap around all edges but I'm curious if this is necessary with everything being screwed and glued these days? Surely the movement is reduced by doing this?
apparently wood (not man made chipboard) need room to expand, that is why as bricklayers we have to tight pack floor joists into the wall? no idea asked nhbc inspectors , was told no idea its in the book
@@stevehallam6495 my point is its manmade floorboards it doesn't shrink or expand . It's not wood its overkill which by the way is great . But I've yet to see a glued and screwed joint open up or start bubbling the floor .
@@stevehallam6495 in a garden building like this we build floor first put sheets down and build walls on top so no expansion joints ? What's the point . To me its dangerous working on joists without floor down the whole principle of egger is you can work outside on it before roof is covered . Not everyone can get the prices to build factory made buildings using glulams and factory made structures I'm working on it though 😉
Great work robin - attention to detail as always! I understand the NHBC recommendations, what are your thoughts on how easily services can be accessed? I often feel adaptability and sustainability is over looked by NHBC? Appreciate this comment is more relevant to new build houses than garden rooms though. Not a knock at your work by the way - just interested in your opinion on the regs. Cheers!
Future access to the subfloor isn't part of the NHBC warranty so is ignored. Hence you end up with this poorly designed, no thought for tomorrow answer to squeaky floorboards.
It does keep a steady flow of jobs going... I think we in Europe have a lot to learn from Japanese carpentry, or simply accept squeaky floors. Some sort of vinyl or rubber strip on the joists could replace the glue, needs a bit more screws, but sounds more sustainable to me.
@@daihedral9269 You wont get squeaky floor if the D4 glue is used correctly. I have a gym on a 22mm floating floor and doing 200KG deadlifts, no creaks or squeaks.
Hi There Robin I was wondering if you could help me out with some guidelines. I live in the Netherlands, and I am looking at doing the following: 1. Ripping out the Living Room floor and making sure that the room under the wooden floor is in order. 1.1 Going to change the piper work ready for a heat pump. 1.2 Going to lay network cables down. 1.3 Going to lay damp foil on the floor. Question: Is there anything else you would take the opportunity to do whilst the floor is totally open? So make the foundation under the floor airtight? Or Cement the bricks on the foundations to provide a better seal for the damp foil? 2. Want to insulate the floor. Questions: - Would you use Hard insulation board or Something like Rockwool. - Ventilation: Should the insulation be up against the chipboard floor or does there need to be a space of say 2 cm in between? - Do I need to use a vapour membrane on top of the insulation, before, I lay down the boarding across the joists? 3. Boarding up the joists Questions: - I have the original wooden planks, would you through these in favour of chipboard bording? We are going to install underfloor heating, just FYI. Thanks in advance for any tips advice :) cheers Mark
Hi Robin, i'm struggling to find any videos of you using plywood as a subfloor material. Apart from cost is there any reason to use chipboard over plywood given the number of complaints and advice an average DIYer stumbles across online? Best Regards
Chipboard is really strong and stable and if you wanted to use plywood then this indeed is possible and I have used a Plywood deck once or twice but it is slightly more expensive and can have its own problems if not fixed or supported properly, A decent P5 Moisture resistant chipboard flooring that is well glued down with the correct glue is unbeatable in my opinion, many complaints come from earlier installed chipboard floors used in many large developments, nothing wrong with the products but when the price work carpenters get given the prices from the stingy house builders they had no choice but to get it fitted so fast!!! leading to some issued in the future
Everything is a "system" now boy's isn't it!? Example - cut roofs which I'm sure you'd agree was joy to do, is now or nearly obsolete.. I know I'm talking the obvious, just that I miss it 😏
I always thought that the BEST thing about wooden floors was that when you got a problem you didn't need a Jack-Hammer to put it RIGHT! ...... Talk about Over-Thinking a problem that plain Common-Sense used to get over ???? ..... Now!! - Extra Money on Materials and Labour to get a WORSE result ...... Hmmmmm????? - Progress EH?? ;-) . Sounds like Health&Safety have teamed UP with The NHBC to see just HOW they can bring the Building Industry to it's KNEES! :-(
How the F)&;( can this gave Dislikes. Robert i have watched your vids for the last years and you are The Best. Your method of explaining the technical aspects is so clear and educational. You gave a new suscriber.
Hi Robin, What do you put below the insulation. I am doing a project but worried about vermin getting into celotext insulation from under the structure.
Hi , what if you use rockwool between joists and have the polythene vapour barrier over the top ? Do you just follow the same process or just glue the tongue and groove . Also would it be ok to build stud walls onto the chipboard as opposed to the joists? Doing a single skin garage conversion to a games room . Cheers great content !
How come your flooring doesn't go down before you build the walls? That's how its done in the US with a 3/4in 4x8 plywood subfloor. So much easier and faster.
I have used chipboard flooring since 1969. I use Kronospan a British product with a waterproof finish. I use silicon in the joints with a 5 thou gap to allow for any movement. Screwed every 6 inches. These 8x2 boards will fly over an 18 centre joints without a support. noggin. You are doing a good job men.
Hi Daniel, when I design and set out a floor I will set the joists so the short edges of the deck boards fall on a joist, I prefer this and it avoids support noggins, even the row offcuts will fit straight in at beginning of the next row over a joist
Never met a anyone with such a great positive attitude to teaching carpentry and the building trade, unfortunately that’s why my career has not really taken off by having worked for people that just want u to make their money
@@stevehallam6495 it's a personal choice as both shanked nails and screws are compliant in the manufacturer specification but the amount of jobs I've snagged on new builds I'd recommend screws every time and on myself own jobs I still overkill on the screws 🔨
@@stevehallam6495 I meant to say aswell that all floor will move as timber is a natural material and always moving no one knows how each individual timber will react to hot and cold 🔨
@@stevehallam6495 yeah I use the I joists myself but as I've said the amount of snags I've had on new builds is shocking 1 in 4 has had a squeak in it and every one of them has used nails again it's a personal choice but I choose screws every time 🔨
I just wanted to say what a great chippy you are. Seriously top notch. Although, we probably did our apprenticeships around the same time, I was taught when using normal chipboard to use PVA on the T&Gs and on the joists, which I have continued to do, to this day.
Hi Robin, great vid, I have a question. I have always been told that the insulation should be kept tight to the underside of the floor boards, has this changed? Thanks keith
No you can have a small service or air space, but.... the insulation needs to be really nice and airtight with no performance gaps, this is the same as if the insulation is hard up against, in the past we have had design details on drawings and specifications that had factored an air space in the build up on the warm side to actually improve the u values it depends on many factors
Hi Robin, great video and a quick question. Can the D4 Egger glue be used on p5 chipboard that is not egger protect? I have bought p5 chipboard from wickes..
As well as the cut edges, I think you have to also paint the screw/nail heads and any penetrations to get Egger's "lifetime guarantee" not sure it's worth the paper it's written on though.
How do you deal with joist spacing that isn't as 'perfect' as this? I laid this flooring recently and the board ends never landed on a joist. It was a nightmare because there was 150mm celotex between the joists and not enough room to get support noggins in.
Hi Billy, generally I always plan my joists layouts and I will make sure that my flooring will be supported where possible, if not then we would work out where the joins will be and frame out then place the PIR insulation around
Much nicer board you have there than here. 3.6m x 0.8m Yellow tongue flooring 19mm 450mm centres for joists. Crappy plastic strip for a tongue. When I was an apprentice chippy on site over 20 years ago there we were using Caber flooring, PVA glue on the joists and joints and firing in ring shanks with the Paslode. Cheers Jerry
@@ukconstruction Yes they are horrible. The dimensions you have are much easier to handle on site and pass them up to the next level. I am good thanks, hope you are to. Enjoying the roofing videos, always pick up a useful tip or another way of doing things. All the best. Cheers
Top stuff. Was just wondering what measures you could take if needed to stop rats coming up through the insulation? Because if they did get in and damaged cables etc they would be a real nightmare to get to.
we always use a decent block of timber, and also if you are running nice and true and straight then its no more than a few taps to get the board where you need, I do sometimes use an off cut of the flooring but this tends to shatter along the striking after a while
Hi Robin, great videos very useful! I am planning my garden room now, and am working out the floor. Would you ever cover the whole base in Egger Protect, then build the external walls on top? Or would that leave the chipboard edge to close to the outside? The only reason I am thinking of doing that is so the boards have support on the first and last row on the long edges. My floor joists are 120 (The base will be 4 sections, of 3800 x 1800 bolted together, total base will be 7600 x 3600) so after the insulation I only have 20mm of depth for floor board noggins, which is not enough. Other option I thought of is triple timbers around the perimeter, so the wall sit on the first two, the there is one around the inside perimeter to support the floor boards. - but that seems like a waste of timber. Any help much appreciated. Many thanks Simon
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Lucky young lad having a mentor like you. He'll go far.
Lucky lad to get your hands on floorboards . Can’t get any anywhere Egger are drip feeding everyone . It’s a brilliant product by the way far superior than Caber
I taught Comrade Clevett everything he knows! This is why the videos and advice are the best out there.
Give over. Clevitt is just a cowboy chancer from Essex.
@@flyingjackcarpentry9394 It's Clevett Kallum and it's Sussex!!
Another meticulously planned and professionally executed job, you are a real credit to your profession. Interestingly, PU glue must have moisture to cure properly with the moisture content of the air usually sufficient to reach an acceptable bond. This adhesion or bond can be improved by atomising water on the P5 board joint prior to fixing. This helps the glue properly penetrate the board fibres and also ensures the PU to reach maximum cure and strength. That’s why it sticks to your skin so enthusiastically due to moisture or perspiration. Atomising takes longer and some would say is too fussy but it certainly makes a strength difference and also makes the finished job far more moisture resistant which is never a bad idea in an potential ingress situation like a bathroom. Just a thought!
Has anyone ever tried pulling a floor up that's been down decades. Bang a few screws in it and be done. So much time wasted. Quality job I must say. 👏
Always a pleasure to watch you work Rob. 👍
Just how I have laid two floors with P5 and glue and floor screws. Well done. Thanks for making your videos.
Good to see how this floor should be laid properly. I had a friend who bought a new build and had them back out numerous times for the squeaky and lifting flooring. They never did resolve it and I can see why as they probably didn't use the correct glue or in the quantity that you should be using it. If I were 30 years younger I'd love to have you as a mentor. Great work ethic.
@Robin Clevett . Nice work, text book as always. You've clearly got to that point where your reputation (earned) gets you the work where the customers want quality rather than speed and lowest price. Best way to be, cos there's always some guy who goes in cheaper, even if he's losing money long term
I've said this before but will say it again.....You are an absolute pleasure to watch. You are a real genuine tradesman that takes pride in what you do. The quality of your work is on another level very few people reach. I agree with others when they say, anyone working as an apprentice with you has got the best mentor money can buy. Always held you in very high regard. Its an absolute pleasure when I see you've posted new videos and that notification bell has been highlighted. What more can I say apart from, keep these videos coming. Thanks Robin..
agree, i'm not a trades or that, but Robin is so relaxing to watch, and listen too.. and his work ethic is unreal.
Quality workmanship as always
I’ve left this flooring out in the open for longer than 60 days and it was fine very good flooring and can be tiled over no need to over board
Rubbish. You cannot tile straight over it! Ask the manufacturer and adhesive company. Your talking bollox
@@daveyboy6883 have you read the spec on egger protect ?
@@marlowjoinery9783 As I said. Ring instamac, Schluter and the chipboard manufacturer. P4 and 5 is a no no.
@@daveyboy6883 so what your saying is egger have made it up then on their spec it says it can be tiled directly on to it
What i am saying is my enquires with 3 technical people from adhesive, Schluter and board makers say not to tile directly on to P4 and 5 boards. Infact one even stated that it should be plyed over.
Stick that in your pipe and smoke it.
Great job guys! Looks awesome.
Are you a full metabo man now robin? I've been using it for years and love it
Why do you need an expansion gap, if the sheets are glued to the joists they can't expand or the glue joint will break, also is the gap between the insulation and the sheets important?
Bits of this reminded me of ‘Police Squad’ where sometimes Leslie Nielsen/Robin gets handed something by an offscreen giant
Laughing!! Nice one mate
Robin - did you borrow that lad from the Coldstream Guards? He's bloody tall!
Ed's not tall, Robin is a short arse 🤣🤣🤣
nice big garden room ... wish all floors were this easy to do
Curious, why go for top of the line chipboard when you can use 18mm OSB3? I guess this looks nicer but it's a subfloor so no-one will see it. The OSB is the same size, same if not greater strength and the same water resistance.
Then if you are after water resistance same question about cement board. Why egger protect instead of a cement board ( Hardie or ever an insulated one ).
Superb job as ever!! Would this flooring be good to replace normal 22mm chipboard in my bathroom refurb? I'm fitting an Impey aqua dec, and the entire floor will be tanked once it's down, then fitted with ProGrid UFH decoupling mat and finally tiled. I was going to use marine ply, but finding 22mm is impossible plus it's £130 for an 8x4!! 😳
Would be great if you could do a video on understanding drawings of a cut roof
Will do Ryan
Brilliant video,i am busy putting 22mm flooring down now but when finished it will be roughlyc20mm lowercthan ajoiningvfloor so needcto build up ,could you advise on best way to do it,ie plywood sheet and how to fix down,screw,nail.?
Many thanks would appreciate any guidance.
Hi Robin, it looks like you left the excess glue on the joints without cleaning them off. Is that part of the process to allow the glue to fully cure? To be cut out after? Really love the channel and videos. Fantastic work.
Hi Daniel, This allows the floor to be water proof for the duration of the build, then after the roof is on you just use a decent flat scraper and it comes off, I also like to inspect that we have an even glue distribution everywhere after we are all fitted
I had many calls in the past where people have asked me why their floors are squeaking not long after having new flooring laid on top of mew chipboard or ply. Every time it’s the sub floor where the chippy hasn’t pre drilled a pilot hole and the screw worms off the joist 1/2mm then over time a squeak starts, very annoying but it’s costly to the client to pay to have it all done again and 9 times out of 10 the culprit will not be accountable.
Do it right, do it once! Few things more annoying than a messy builder, filth and crap everywhere, a clean tidy job is better for everyone and usually means a quality result.
When I'm doing decking or garden buildings I use 400mm centres on the floor joists, am I wasting my time?! Do you not get a bit of bounce at 600 centres? Love the channel by the way, great work. Cheers, Bob Rogers.
22mm boards for 600mm centre is perfectly good. 400mm centres can get away with 18mm boards.
robin ,,, just wondering what carpenters pencils you would recommend,,, also how do you choose to sharpen them i.e with a knife or the required sharpener if its for the flat ones,,,, the ones i seem to have the lead keeps breaking after they have been sharpened,,, they were cheap so obviously you get what you pay for,, if you could send me in the right direction i would be grateful,,, ps good informative videos ,, keep up the good work thanks scott
Just got back from sorting out a floor on a 30 year old house. Joints not supported, no glue, copper pipes rubbing on boards, ring shank nails worked loose, appalling squeaks everywhere. If the developer had invested a few hours in doing it properly like you did the owner would have avoided years of awful noise and saved me three days grovelling about on hands and knees.
I see you working steadily, tidily, not cutting corners and the end result is a permanent high quality solution.
Me trying to build the quality in afterwards is a very expensive and only marginal solution that should not have been needed at all.
Can you use those boards on a flat roof Robin ? Great vid again thanks Robin.
You can do, but there are osb tongue and groove board made for flat roofs.
If anyone can answer my questions would greatly appreciate the help.
1) Will start making similar floor to be used as gym. Which is stronger surface Egger Protect or same thickness structural Plywood with same fixings and adhesive?
2) Vapor barrier under floor or not and why? I've seen plenty videos for colder climate where they use vapor layer under floor etc...
What about laying a few boards down as a temporary work platform 👌
"...don`t think ya thought that one through Mr Blogs...get`s ya drifties though..." X=0I
@@paulamblerart what do you mean?
Stack the boards against the furthest away wall
Slide a couple of boards off to walk on and move them around as necessary. Beats walking along the joists all day. Work smart not hard mrs ambler
@@mrsbradpittiful "...Mrs?...ya cheeky bastard!...yeah....get`s ya drifties I suppose...hadn`t really thought through my `you haven`t really thought this through` comment..." X=0I
I don't really understand what the 10mm gap is for. Expansion? If so would there be much movement being glued and screwed? Or is the 10mm gap for something else.?
It's for expansion there might not be alot of movement but it is timber and they can't 100% guarantee no movement hence the 10mm gap hope that helps 🔨
Mice 🐀
Expansion due to heat or moisture
Hi Robin, please could you tell me which bonding glue do you use? I've just bought a house that needs new floors all the way through. Thanks Daz
What happens if the wall isn't straight?
Is that Kronos pan chipboard
Oh to have just 1% of this man's knowledge and craft...
Lovely to watch for a rough old trowel.
I was thinking the other day when I was using my impact driver, what are the db's of impact drivers? I know you are very conscious of protecting your hearing.
I fear for the scaffolders who use them all day on steel, the noise must be above safe limits.
Perhaps a video?
I will have a think about that Harvey, have a great day mate
I just did my floor on my extension DiY and this was a great help r.e. the information on Method A etc. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video Robin, Do you prefer the Metabo plunge saw to the Festool....? As i know from your videos on skill build that you love Fesstool plunge saws....?
I really like this saw, my festool is mains powered so in this instance being able to work cordless was a great advantage, it was two dodgy to run leads to the main property as we where having terrible weather!! This saw and dust extractor from @metabo is totally cord free!! And it's a great saw too!
Can yo use 18mm on a small area, like a porch,
Why do you leave this 'big' gab above the insulation and below the flooring board? Why not bring the insulation higher up or put in more insulation?
Services, can pass over the top of the insulation on the warm side without damage to the insulation
@@ukconstruction That's a very good point. I am however afraid of rodents will like it too. If they could come in, that is. Do you install special measures that will not happen?
Installing the flooring like this means you can't put an EDPM over the floor base. How are you able to prevent moisture coming up to the flooring? Is it just via sealing the insulation to the base joists?
Robin, what are your thoughts on glueing down floorboards. Is that the way forward?? Many contractors don’t like doing it in case there’s an issue and they need to open up the floorboard again. I can see their point.
We used No More Ply concrete boards instead of normal floorboards in our renovation. I glued them down and then screwed them in too.
I just fear that in 5-10-15 years when I want to update/check something, I won’t be able to take the boards off without damaging them.
God help you, my guess is lifting may damage the joist unless done with care.
I know its meant to be a 10mm expansion gap around all edges but I'm curious if this is necessary with everything being screwed and glued these days? Surely the movement is reduced by doing this?
apparently wood (not man made chipboard) need room to expand, that is why as bricklayers we have to tight pack floor joists into the wall? no idea asked nhbc inspectors , was told no idea its in the book
@@stevehallam6495 guys it isn't wood though . Never seen expanding or contracting
@@stevehallam6495 my point is its manmade floorboards it doesn't shrink or expand . It's not wood its overkill which by the way is great . But I've yet to see a glued and screwed joint open up or start bubbling the floor .
@@stevehallam6495 in a garden building like this we build floor first put sheets down and build walls on top so no expansion joints ? What's the point . To me its dangerous working on joists without floor down the whole principle of egger is you can work outside on it before roof is covered . Not everyone can get the prices to build factory made buildings using glulams and factory made structures I'm working on it though 😉
@@stevehallam6495 agreed 👍
Done hundreds of these, thought the spec was perimeter fixings only now
Is that method B?
@@stevehallam6495 Same here Steve. (on new builds anyway).👍
It’s about time we got the floor adhesive they use in the USA that fits in the foam gun- looks loads mor manageable
Great to see a quality job! Was nervous watching you dance over the glue but you missed it without even looking 😂
where's your air flow?
Great work robin - attention to detail as always! I understand the NHBC recommendations, what are your thoughts on how easily services can be accessed? I often feel adaptability and sustainability is over looked by NHBC? Appreciate this comment is more relevant to new build houses than garden rooms though. Not a knock at your work by the way - just interested in your opinion on the regs. Cheers!
Future access to the subfloor isn't part of the NHBC warranty so is ignored. Hence you end up with this poorly designed, no thought for tomorrow answer to squeaky floorboards.
It does keep a steady flow of jobs going...
I think we in Europe have a lot to learn from Japanese carpentry, or simply accept squeaky floors. Some sort of vinyl or rubber strip on the joists could replace the glue, needs a bit more screws, but sounds more sustainable to me.
@@daihedral9269 You wont get squeaky floor if the D4 glue is used correctly. I have a gym on a 22mm floating floor and doing 200KG deadlifts, no creaks or squeaks.
I saw that young’un using ol faithful! Ya getting soft in ya old age!😜
Fantastic videos. Great to watch. Do you need a vapour barrier between the boards and the insulation?
Hi There Robin
I was wondering if you could help me out with some guidelines. I live in the Netherlands, and I am looking at doing the following:
1. Ripping out the Living Room floor and making sure that the room under the wooden floor is in order.
1.1 Going to change the piper work ready for a heat pump.
1.2 Going to lay network cables down.
1.3 Going to lay damp foil on the floor.
Question: Is there anything else you would take the opportunity to do whilst the floor is totally open? So make the foundation under the floor airtight? Or Cement the bricks on the foundations to provide a better seal for the damp foil?
2. Want to insulate the floor.
Questions:
- Would you use Hard insulation board or Something like Rockwool.
- Ventilation: Should the insulation be up against the chipboard floor or does there need to be a space of say 2 cm in between?
- Do I need to use a vapour membrane on top of the insulation, before, I lay down the boarding across the joists?
3. Boarding up the joists
Questions:
- I have the original wooden planks, would you through these in favour of chipboard bording?
We are going to install underfloor heating, just FYI.
Thanks in advance for any tips advice :)
cheers
Mark
What happened to your other apprentice? The guy that’s been with you this past couple of years.
he's off squatting somewhere in his tracksuit
Was there no more parts to this series? Shame if not as it looks like it's was going to be an awesome build 👌
I normally put white mastic in my tongue and grooves
Hi Robin, i'm struggling to find any videos of you using plywood as a subfloor material. Apart from cost is there any reason to use chipboard over plywood given the number of complaints and advice an average DIYer stumbles across online? Best Regards
Chipboard is really strong and stable and if you wanted to use plywood then this indeed is possible and I have used a Plywood deck once or twice but it is slightly more expensive and can have its own problems if not fixed or supported properly, A decent P5 Moisture resistant chipboard flooring that is well glued down with the correct glue is unbeatable in my opinion, many complaints come from earlier installed chipboard floors used in many large developments, nothing wrong with the products but when the price work carpenters get given the prices from the stingy house builders they had no choice but to get it fitted so fast!!! leading to some issued in the future
Will you be selling the t shirts and hoodies you wear as merchandise?
Everything is a "system" now boy's isn't it!? Example - cut roofs which I'm sure you'd agree was joy to do, is now or nearly obsolete.. I know I'm talking the obvious, just that I miss it 😏
I always thought that the BEST thing about wooden floors was that when you got a problem you didn't need a Jack-Hammer to put it RIGHT! ...... Talk about Over-Thinking a problem that plain Common-Sense used to get over ???? ..... Now!! - Extra Money on Materials and Labour to get a WORSE result ...... Hmmmmm????? - Progress EH?? ;-)
.
Sounds like Health&Safety have teamed UP with The NHBC to see just HOW they can bring the Building Industry to it's KNEES! :-(
Dobre!
How the F)&;( can this gave Dislikes. Robert i have watched your vids for the last years and you are The Best. Your method of explaining the technical aspects is so clear and educational. You gave a new suscriber.
great video as always sir. Can I ask a stupid question. DO you put any typeof covering on the underside of the wooden base?
Hi Robin, What do you put below the insulation. I am doing a project but worried about vermin getting into celotext insulation from under the structure.
Hi , what if you use rockwool between joists and have the polythene vapour barrier over the top ? Do you just follow the same process or just glue the tongue and groove . Also would it be ok to build stud walls onto the chipboard as opposed to the joists? Doing a single skin garage conversion to a games room . Cheers great content !
Great job….what happens when you need to take the floor up again….!!
You don't.
You get your circ saw out
First erect some scaffolding!
If it’s tgi joists yer in trouble
Sledgehammer 🔨
How come your flooring doesn't go down before you build the walls? That's how its done in the US with a 3/4in 4x8 plywood subfloor. So much easier and faster.
Robin clevett vs Jamie (perking brothers ) from America
Your both superhuman lool
Shame that glue bottle did not have twin tips.. Save your back by half..
I have used chipboard flooring since 1969. I use Kronospan a British product with a waterproof finish. I use silicon in the joints with a 5 thou gap to allow for any movement. Screwed every 6 inches. These 8x2 boards will fly over an 18 centre joints without a support. noggin. You are doing a good job men.
May I ask why is your insulation under the frame and not filling inside frame space? Is it because heat loss thru timber?
I maybe tempted to glue it and screw it myself 🤣. 👍🏻 From me. 🇬🇧
Robin would you be happy using this board under a kitchen?
It seems your making the t&g end on the joists? Is that just luck or are you cutting them to fit?
Hi Daniel, when I design and set out a floor I will set the joists so the short edges of the deck boards fall on a joist, I prefer this and it avoids support noggins, even the row offcuts will fit straight in at beginning of the next row over a joist
Never met a anyone with such a great positive attitude to teaching carpentry and the building trade, unfortunately that’s why my career has not really taken off by having worked for people that just want u to make their money
I'm a diyer, is there a reason to screw down instead of nail gun?
Using ring cuts seems to hold ok with the glue aswell, faster but still better to screw first row incase you need to pull out and do ya line again
A nail has more chance of rubbing off the timber if it comes loose even if their shanked nails 🔨
@@stevehallam6495 it's a personal choice as both shanked nails and screws are compliant in the manufacturer specification but the amount of jobs I've snagged on new builds I'd recommend screws every time and on myself own jobs I still overkill on the screws 🔨
@@stevehallam6495 I meant to say aswell that all floor will move as timber is a natural material and always moving no one knows how each individual timber will react to hot and cold 🔨
@@stevehallam6495 yeah I use the I joists myself but as I've said the amount of snags I've had on new builds is shocking 1 in 4 has had a squeak in it and every one of them has used nails again it's a personal choice but I choose screws every time 🔨
I wouldn’t glue the joints no need
I just wanted to say what a great chippy you are. Seriously top notch.
Although, we probably did our apprenticeships around the same time, I was taught when using normal chipboard to use PVA on the T&Gs and on the joists, which I have continued to do, to this day.
Hi Robin, great vid, I have a question. I have always been told that the insulation should be kept tight to the underside of the floor boards, has this changed?
Thanks keith
No you can have a small service or air space, but.... the insulation needs to be really nice and airtight with no performance gaps, this is the same as if the insulation is hard up against, in the past we have had design details on drawings and specifications that had factored an air space in the build up on the warm side to actually improve the u values it depends on many factors
@@ukconstruction thanks Robin for taking time to explain and answer my question
Hi Robin, great video and a quick question. Can the D4 Egger glue be used on p5 chipboard that is not egger protect? I have bought p5 chipboard from wickes..
Hi Bob, yes it can be used, it can be used on the joist and on the joint
Why there is a gap between floor boards and insulation?thanks
Superb vid again Robin ..... absolutely a wonderful walk through of the methods and very informative.
As well as the cut edges, I think you have to also paint the screw/nail heads and any penetrations to get Egger's "lifetime guarantee" not sure it's worth the paper it's written on though.
The other lad is creeping round like he'd sneaking up on dogging couple.
Is this Egger Protect? I'm not sure because you didn't say the name enough times.
Plastered a few garden rooms always seem to get a few cracks is there anything the chippies can do to prevent this? Cheers
Movement causes cracks, maybe allow the timber to fully dry before plastering.
Absolutely amazing . I hope every builder in the world learns from your videos.
How do you deal with joist spacing that isn't as 'perfect' as this? I laid this flooring recently and the board ends never landed on a joist. It was a nightmare because there was 150mm celotex between the joists and not enough room to get support noggins in.
Hi Billy, generally I always plan my joists layouts and I will make sure that my flooring will be supported where possible, if not then we would work out where the joins will be and frame out then place the PIR insulation around
Hi, Robin, maybe a tutorial on screw types and uses would be interesting.
Good design to reduce or prevent any un-necessary wastage especially when there is a shortage of building materials .
It looks like it is hermetically sealed, just asking about ventilation under the floor?
Thanks for sharing and great job and video
Much nicer board you have there than here. 3.6m x 0.8m Yellow tongue flooring 19mm 450mm centres for joists. Crappy plastic strip for a tongue.
When I was an apprentice chippy on site over 20 years ago there we were using Caber flooring, PVA glue on the joists and joints and firing in ring shanks with the Paslode. Cheers Jerry
Thats mad!! Why are they so long?? They must be heavy too!! Like your plasterboard!!! Hope your well bro
@@ukconstruction Yes they are horrible. The dimensions you have are much easier to handle on site and pass them up to the next level. I am good thanks, hope you are to. Enjoying the roofing videos, always pick up a useful tip or another way of doing things. All the best. Cheers
Why would you not have boards falling on joists?
Excellent guidance, much appreciated!
Can’t believe the amount of glue required. Really good though and such a relief when the floor is down. On with the less back breaking work now. 👏🏾👏🏾
The glue is the secret, its £15 a bottle.
NHBC good making rules and regs, but piss poor at getting things put right, nice job, young lad seems keen 👏
Mmm!!, this is Ed, he is learning the craft with me
Nice to see a clean and tidy job your lad is so lucky to work with a master well done
Top stuff. Was just wondering what measures you could take if needed to stop rats coming up through the insulation? Because if they did get in and damaged cables etc they would be a real nightmare to get to.
None Rats can eat through any thing.
Surprised you didn’t damage the tongue hitting it like that, usually use an off cut that will slot into the groove then tap that
we always use a decent block of timber, and also if you are running nice and true and straight then its no more than a few taps to get the board where you need, I do sometimes use an off cut of the flooring but this tends to shatter along the striking after a while
Excellent video and quality boards 👍
NOOICE!
one bit holder missing left under the floor
Hi Robin, great videos very useful! I am planning my garden room now, and am working out the floor. Would you ever cover the whole base in Egger Protect, then build the external walls on top? Or would that leave the chipboard edge to close to the outside? The only reason I am thinking of doing that is so the boards have support on the first and last row on the long edges. My floor joists are 120 (The base will be 4 sections, of 3800 x 1800 bolted together, total base will be 7600 x 3600) so after the insulation I only have 20mm of depth for floor board noggins, which is not enough. Other option I thought of is triple timbers around the perimeter, so the wall sit on the first two, the there is one around the inside perimeter to support the floor boards. - but that seems like a waste of timber. Any help much appreciated. Many thanks Simon
Shouldn’t bond the dwangs when joists shrink they will move with sheet and rub on joist making a noise.
How u Gna tell robin clevett how to do his job