Cheers for a great piece of climbing safety content! I knew about the issue but you did a very thorough and useful explanation that made it all clear and poignant. Keep up the good work! 😎👍
Hopefully experienced climbers have this knowledge but I am teaching my grandkids and this is excellent detailed info that I am having them watch and the of course I test them on all of it. Thanks for your videos, great teaching.
That's very nice of you to say, thanks! I've been climbing since the early 90s and qualified as a single pitch instructor, and completed the guide training back then. I'm amazed how many techniques we considered safe then have been exposed as unsafe. It's why I like to stay current with techniques and encourage comments on anything I say. Constant learning and improving, is how we keep each other safe. If there's anything you'd like me to talk about in future, please do let me know.
That would be a good topic for sure. It'll take some time to gather the content as I think a few real world examples would be useful. I'll try to remember to get footage when I see the issue come up when I'm at the crag. Might take a while, but I'll get to it!. Thanks for the suggestion.
I know a lot of climbers used to set up quickdraws with gates facing opposite directions, but I think it's now generally regarded as safer to have the gates facing the same direction (th-cam.com/video/fmR6h4Uewic/w-d-xo.html), especially with the growing popularity of glue-ins that are more vertically oriented than most hangers. There's also another way to rack specifically double-length slings - over one shoulder and across the body, but with two bights/ends joined with the carabiner. Just unclip one end to free it up. This way also means you could have the double-length sling(s) under a pack or under opposing slings, but still be able to free them without removing the other items.
Not a bad idea! The wear less too, so they're useful for top-roping. We just need affordable, lightweight, titanium carabiners, and we'd have the best of all worlds!
Thanks for the comment. Hopefully the reasoning is sound enough about why they should switch. Mentoring and social learning is a great resource, but there's a lot of misinformation out there. Professional instruction is always a good idea.
Cheers for a great piece of climbing safety content!
I knew about the issue but you did a very thorough and useful explanation that made it all clear and poignant.
Keep up the good work! 😎👍
Thank you! If there's anything you'd like me to talk about in future, please do let me know.
Hopefully experienced climbers have this knowledge but I am teaching my grandkids and this is excellent detailed info that I am having them watch and the of course I test them on all of it. Thanks for your videos, great teaching.
Love your content. Clearly your knowledge base is deep. Thanks for sharing and keeping us all a bit safer!
That's very nice of you to say, thanks! I've been climbing since the early 90s and qualified as a single pitch instructor, and completed the guide training back then. I'm amazed how many techniques we considered safe then have been exposed as unsafe. It's why I like to stay current with techniques and encourage comments on anything I say. Constant learning and improving, is how we keep each other safe. If there's anything you'd like me to talk about in future, please do let me know.
@@climbingfocus Thanks so much!
Thanks for the video, Fiona!
Can I suggest one on edge protection? Maybe some examples of when to protect and not.
That would be a good topic for sure. It'll take some time to gather the content as I think a few real world examples would be useful. I'll try to remember to get footage when I see the issue come up when I'm at the crag. Might take a while, but I'll get to it!. Thanks for the suggestion.
Very thorough... Thank you...
Thanks for the comment. I really appreciate it and happy you found it useful. :)
I'm very new to climbing but a voracious reader and consumer of climbing videos. I haven't seen a discussion of this problem, so thank you.
If there's anything you'd like me to talk about in future, please do let me know.
I know a lot of climbers used to set up quickdraws with gates facing opposite directions, but I think it's now generally regarded as safer to have the gates facing the same direction (th-cam.com/video/fmR6h4Uewic/w-d-xo.html), especially with the growing popularity of glue-ins that are more vertically oriented than most hangers.
There's also another way to rack specifically double-length slings - over one shoulder and across the body, but with two bights/ends joined with the carabiner. Just unclip one end to free it up. This way also means you could have the double-length sling(s) under a pack or under opposing slings, but still be able to free them without removing the other items.
That's why I use steel locking carabiners on quick draws 😊
Not a bad idea! The wear less too, so they're useful for top-roping. We just need affordable, lightweight, titanium carabiners, and we'd have the best of all worlds!
Wait… I’ve been climbing for years and always heard to use the stiff side of the draw for the bolt… Looks like I need new biners
Thanks for the comment. Hopefully the reasoning is sound enough about why they should switch. Mentoring and social learning is a great resource, but there's a lot of misinformation out there. Professional instruction is always a good idea.