My File and CAD links are now at: / russtuff Search www.sdp-si.com/... for these part numbers: A 6A55-048NF1516 A 6A55-024DF1512 A 6R55M080150 Belt Calculator: sdp-si.com/eSt...
You can often get a press fit without a press by cooling down and heat up the relevant parts. The CO2 fire extinguisher gives you -60C at the tip. 5-10% oil will bring the boiling point for water at 125C. a heat gun is also very helpful.
Awesome! Coming together really nice. I like the belt & pulley over gear drive it's not a loud but then again your running high Ron so it may be about the same now? Can't wait for the next! :) D
Great job! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos - really good stuff. Are you able to quantify/qualify the improved performance of the mill after the upgrade? Obviously, you have more RPM but have you seen any other improvements? Does the mill give you a better surface finish with the upgraded bearings?
+Franco Thanks for watching! I wouldn't say the mill runs better really, only that it's faster. I never had a problem with the stock bearings and only figured I should replace them because I knew I was going to shoot for higher speeds. Some people stick with the stock ones until they explode :)
I have the timing belt conversion and I am ditching out for a ribbed pulley setup. I have 8k rpm and it is loud and the belt bounces a bit to much for my liking which creates vibration at certain rpm. Also switching to driving the quill Barrel verse the splined shaft. How well do your splines fit in the quill barrel? I get some backlash chatter there, trying to figure a good way to fix that. I'm also going to do a high/low setup to try and get around 10k rpm. I agree that the smaller endmills and higher speed spindle work much better than bigger and slower. Have you tried any trochoidal machining yet? Seriously opens up the possibilities on these small mills. Chris
Keep me posted on your ribbed belt drive. I am getting some bouncing too at my max 4600 but I think most of it is from to little tension. My splines also have some backlash. I think the 3d printed spacer could help with that (?), but I have some other ideas before I start hassling people to print me one :)
Very cool. I bought a pre made belt drive setup with Adelee 3HP motor/controller, probably paid way too much for it, so far it has worked good. Btw, when you were boring out the pulley, were you using an endmill or drill as a boring bar at one point? That's cool, haven't seen that done before....
Hi Russ- thank you for your videos. I have a question about the bearing choice for my G0704. My machine is stock, and I do not intend to go hi-speed at this time. But do need to replace quill bearings as they are running very hot even in light load running conditions My question is the bearing choice. Should I use flat/contact bearings as you suggested in your first Video, or the hi quality taper herrings that you have recommended in this later Video? My machine is just a bit over a year old but does get a lot of use. I don't want to replace with factory part number in any evert. Please advise, thanks, Howard
I would go with the tapered roller bearings over the angular contact bearings, not just because of speed but because of concentricity. You'll have way less runout on your end mills with the tapered roller bearings. I had about .001“of runout with angular contact bearings, and about .0001" of runout with tapered roller bearings.
Thanks for the videos! Having stripped out the drive gears on my G0704 tonight, it looks like i'm in for the same conversion. Am I correct to assume that if I simply copy and paste those 3 part numbers over that I'll end up with what I need? The gearing calculator part confuses me. I'm not looking to go faster than stock really, I just can't see putting those same silly plastic gears back in the machine. I do have a lathe and a drill press....but no milling machine currently. ha
***** Yes those pulleys and the belt will double your motor's RPM, but remember it also cuts your torque in half. I'm not sure if you could do a belt drive without building all new motor mounts, so you may have that hurdle to jump too.
Russ, are you still using the same pulley set that you are using in this video? I ask because I’m getting ready to use a 6030 AC 3hp 6k rpm rated motor on a VFD/inverter. If I can use only a single pulley set that would be good. If not it’s no big deal to make a hi-lo system.
I've moved to a poly ribbed belt setup, single speed with a max RPM of about 6500. My 1.5hp 3ph handles the whole RPM range pretty well, but I do intend to go dual speed at some point as I want to add 1:1 for rigid tapping.
Thanks for the quick response, tapping was the only thing I didn’t consider. I do t plan to do a lot of mass production so I could easily tap the old fashion way but then again I do have two 2.75 timing pulleys on the shelf I could stack on this arrangement. Hmmm. Thanks for blazing the trail for at least me. I know your trials have saved me plenty of errors and money I’m sure.
I would love to use a poly groves setup but I’m having fits trying to find a supplier. I do have a lathe and could turn out them but I would much rather buy the pulleys. Do you have a supplier? If not the lathe gets to job.
What motor are you going with. I just got done doing the same thing. I went with a 2 hp ac induction motor a sensorless vector vfd it work great. A week after i finished it i found out about a compact asynchranis ac induction motor. I bought one and it gives me almost an extra 2 inches of room compared to the 56c mount. The small motor is a seipee. Let me know if your interested.
Dirtdigger, would love to pick your brain on your linear guide conversion! Are you on any boards? Have any build threads? Sorry for the hijack Russtuff. :)
Hey Russ, Thanks a lot for the videos. I'm doing the conversion now and I'm confused about the c-clip. Does the c-clip fit inside the pulley counter-bore near the top of the pulley?
+ADPathos Do you mean the c-clip above the upper quill bearing which is flush with the top of the mill head? That c-clip stays in place, and the hub of the small pulley which drives the quill/spindle assembly actually slides down inside the quill.
+russtuff Oh sorry, that's not the one I meant. I guess it isn't really a "c-clip". I'm talking about the c-shaped piece of metal that holds the spring loaded cylinder in place. The one that allows the spindle assembly to drop from the head when removed.
Right! I completely forgot about that clip. Because I'm not using the quill setup on my mill, I removed that clip and the spring as well. The quill lock at the bottom-left of the quill and the small pulley are holding it all together now.
russtuff oh I know just giving you a hard time, I just watched a guy pull apart a spindle out of a $3 million dollar cnc machine by banging it on the floor, to get the bearings out
This setup did last a long time, but the toothed belt had some awful harmonics I couldn't ever get rid of. I ended up swaping to a ribbed belt later on.
Thank thank thank you!!! None of the other videos showed this exact model! I really appreciate you making this video! It was so easy to fix!
You can often get a press fit without a press by cooling down and heat up the relevant parts. The CO2 fire extinguisher gives you -60C at the tip. 5-10% oil will bring the boiling point for water at 125C. a heat gun is also very helpful.
Awesome! Coming together really nice. I like the belt & pulley over gear drive it's not a loud but then again your running high Ron so it may be about the same now? Can't wait for the next! :)
D
Thanks! Right now I'm hitting 5200RPM at about 90volts, but my motor is rated at 130v continuous so there is room to move that up.
Good job Russ. Keep it running :)
Haha yeah no kidding! Thanks :)
Thanks for sharing Russ ! I'll have to be doing something similar to mine soon...
RoboCNC Frees- & Graveerwerk It's been fun so far, and I do like the higher RPM range.
Thanks for the web link to the parts supplier.
Great job! Thanks for taking the time to make these videos - really good stuff. Are you able to quantify/qualify the improved performance of the mill after the upgrade? Obviously, you have more RPM but have you seen any other improvements? Does the mill give you a better surface finish with the upgraded bearings?
+Franco Thanks for watching!
I wouldn't say the mill runs better really, only that it's faster. I never had a problem with the stock bearings and only figured I should replace them because I knew I was going to shoot for higher speeds. Some people stick with the stock ones until they explode :)
I have the timing belt conversion and I am ditching out for a ribbed pulley setup. I have 8k rpm and it is loud and the belt bounces a bit to much for my liking which creates vibration at certain rpm. Also switching to driving the quill Barrel verse the splined shaft.
How well do your splines fit in the quill barrel? I get some backlash chatter there, trying to figure a good way to fix that.
I'm also going to do a high/low setup to try and get around 10k rpm. I agree that the smaller endmills and higher speed spindle work much better than bigger and slower.
Have you tried any trochoidal machining yet? Seriously opens up the possibilities on these small mills.
Chris
Keep me posted on your ribbed belt drive. I am getting some bouncing too at my max 4600 but I think most of it is from to little tension. My splines also have some backlash. I think the 3d printed spacer could help with that (?), but I have some other ideas before I start hassling people to print me one :)
Very cool. I bought a pre made belt drive setup with Adelee 3HP motor/controller, probably paid way too much for it, so far it has worked good. Btw, when you were boring out the pulley, were you using an endmill or drill as a boring bar at one point? That's cool, haven't seen that done before....
Thanks!
Yeah it was a 2 flute 1/2" HSS end mill. I do it quite a bit now. They are very fast at hogging.
Hi Russ- thank you for your videos. I have a question about the bearing choice for my G0704. My machine is stock, and I do not intend to go hi-speed at this time. But do need to replace quill bearings as they are running very hot even in light load running conditions My question is the bearing choice. Should I use flat/contact bearings as you suggested in your first Video, or the hi quality taper herrings that you have recommended in this later Video? My machine is just a bit over a year old but does get a lot of use. I don't want to replace with factory part number in any evert. Please advise, thanks, Howard
I would go with the tapered roller bearings over the angular contact bearings, not just because of speed but because of concentricity. You'll have way less runout on your end mills with the tapered roller bearings. I had about .001“of runout with angular contact bearings, and about .0001" of runout with tapered roller bearings.
I'm going to hit the like in the next vid
Do not crush the metal shield!! You can take the head off and press this in, which is what I did after denting the shield.
Yup, you gotta be careful with that shield. They are super easy to ruin.
Thanks for the videos! Having stripped out the drive gears on my G0704 tonight, it looks like i'm in for the same conversion. Am I correct to assume that if I simply copy and paste those 3 part numbers over that I'll end up with what I need? The gearing calculator part confuses me. I'm not looking to go faster than stock really, I just can't see putting those same silly plastic gears back in the machine. I do have a lathe and a drill press....but no milling machine currently. ha
***** Yes those pulleys and the belt will double your motor's RPM, but remember it also cuts your torque in half. I'm not sure if you could do a belt drive without building all new motor mounts, so you may have that hurdle to jump too.
Russ, are you still using the same pulley set that you are using in this video? I ask because I’m getting ready to use a 6030 AC 3hp 6k rpm rated motor on a VFD/inverter. If I can use only a single pulley set that would be good. If not it’s no big deal to make a hi-lo system.
I've moved to a poly ribbed belt setup, single speed with a max RPM of about 6500. My 1.5hp 3ph handles the whole RPM range pretty well, but I do intend to go dual speed at some point as I want to add 1:1 for rigid tapping.
Thanks for the quick response, tapping was the only thing I didn’t consider. I do t plan to do a lot of mass production so I could easily tap the old fashion way but then again I do have two 2.75 timing pulleys on the shelf I could stack on this arrangement. Hmmm. Thanks for blazing the trail for at least me. I know your trials have saved me plenty of errors and money I’m sure.
Glad I could help. Thanks for watching :-)
I would love to use a poly groves setup but I’m having fits trying to find a supplier. I do have a lathe and could turn out them but I would much rather buy the pulleys. Do you have a supplier? If not the lathe gets to job.
I made mine, but I've ordered lots from these guys. www.sdp-si.com/shop/
What is the belt pitch
What motor are you going with.
I just got done doing the same thing. I went with a 2 hp ac induction motor a sensorless vector vfd it work great.
A week after i finished it i found out about a compact asynchranis ac induction motor. I bought one and it gives me almost an extra 2 inches of room compared to the 56c mount. The small motor is a seipee. Let me know if your interested.
Dirtdigger257 I have a 2.8HP DC motor on there now, and may eventually upgrade to a 3.8HP DC (I have both). Thanks!
Dirtdigger, would love to pick your brain on your linear guide conversion! Are you on any boards? Have any build threads?
Sorry for the hijack Russtuff. :)
Hey Russ,
Thanks a lot for the videos. I'm doing the conversion now and I'm confused about the c-clip. Does the c-clip fit inside the pulley counter-bore near the top of the pulley?
+ADPathos Do you mean the c-clip above the upper quill bearing which is flush with the top of the mill head? That c-clip stays in place, and the hub of the small pulley which drives the quill/spindle assembly actually slides down inside the quill.
+russtuff Oh sorry, that's not the one I meant. I guess it isn't really a "c-clip". I'm talking about the c-shaped piece of metal that holds the spring loaded cylinder in place. The one that allows the spindle assembly to drop from the head when removed.
Right! I completely forgot about that clip. Because I'm not using the quill setup on my mill, I removed that clip and the spring as well. The quill lock at the bottom-left of the quill and the small pulley are holding it all together now.
+russtuff Aha! Good to know and thanks! I also don't plan on using the quill so I'll probably do the same.
nothing like putting precision bearings in with a hammer :)
How do you think Chevys are made :)
russtuff oh I know just giving you a hard time, I just watched a guy pull apart a spindle out of a $3 million dollar cnc machine by banging it on the floor, to get the bearings out
EitriBrokkr haha. I would have enjoyed that.
russtuff did i mention he was a factory service rep
EitriBrokkr no but that makes it even better.
Sir...can we use 300watt spindle to cut the aluminium...??
I think you could, but you would need to take shallow cuts.
russtuff thankyou sir...
Is the pulley still holding up?
This setup did last a long time, but the toothed belt had some awful harmonics I couldn't ever get rid of. I ended up swaping to a ribbed belt later on.