Jean if the spindle bearings are knackered to replace them with the original G88503 ones will cost a fortune (saw them on ebay for $50.. yikes!). I used a good quality Timken 6203 sealed bearing (R70 at bearing man and am sure it will do the job just fine). Only difference is the centre core is 12mm wide on the 6203 and 16.6 on the original 88503 (outer race width remains the same at 12 mm). I made some 2.3 mm x 17 ID spacers in order to still be able to centre the spindle so it will work with the riving knife.
I have to use one these beauties at work. A high school in UK. Definitely fit the riving knife and a crown guard. I like the suggestion of the bigger wheel on the angle tilt control. In the centre of the handwheels there is a locking knob, which has a brass washer... don't over tighten the knob !!! Wadkin's website has the old manuals. Or a quick Google search finds them.
At 3:40 the hole in the spindle housing is for a 3/8 whitworth x 1” hex bolt that holds the trapping collar to keep the spindle centred . You will need to align it with the riving knife once it is assembled then tighten the bolt.
Hi, I got hold of an old cast iron Bursgreen jointer and the hole you were referring to on the spindle I think is fora grease nipple. On mine you just screw it to add lubricant. Good luck with the rebuild. My issue is that the fence has twisted slight!
I saw a guy who did a rebuild on a table saw and he did the housing in plywood. I am not a huge fan of it but it's an option. Good luck and keep up the great work.
I have but unfortunately I am not confident enough in my own skill to attempt it myself. I am speaking to people who are more informed and I will be making a decision soon.
@@WoodshopJunkies Good luck with it, I agree that if it is cast iron, brazing is your better bet, and is far easier (from what i have seen people do on videos) than they explain welding cast iron would be to do. Here is a video for it that may be useful th-cam.com/video/jM2_LBvzg6c/w-d-xo.html
Agree on the brazing, Keith Fenner(Turnwright machine works) and Keith Rucker(Vintage Machinery.org) do brazing repairs ,they believe it's the best option in terms of longevity
The secret is to get the cast iron part up to 400 deg. C., use either a gas torch or stick welder with the correct rods, then, when finished, cover with a load of welding blankets and allow to cool slowly. Clean up can be left until it has cooled back to room temperature.
I love these saws! Almost bought one but I missed the opportunity. I feel for you on all the broken parts. I'm currently restoring a german jointer and I'll have to fabricate a few parts too. I'll be posting a video on my channel soon.
Jean rather than welding the top part with the crack try to find someone who can do Cast iron braising as that would be way way stronger than any welding plus you can blend it together smoothly for when you paint!!!. Don't forget my offer if you struggle with part's and shipping etc. Looking forward to seeing the results 💯% 👍🇬🇧.
Brilliant saws. Just finished restoring an old AGS 10. Really enjoyable project. Mine was missing the fence, I built a new one based on ask wood man's tutorials. Mine also lacks the true riving knife which is a bit of a bummer.
I agree with those who recommend braising. Also, cast parts are prone to cracking with vibration. It is a good practice to meticulously remove all sharp edges or burrs. That is where cracks can start even with no stress other than vibration. That is how engine blocks are prepared for rebuilding. That crack may have simply been caused by vibration setting up a harmonic in a sharp right angle of the casting.
Hi Jean, great job so far , it's going be like new and should last you a lifetime. Could you put me in touch with the guy that supplied you the cast round wheel , i'm interested in getting some myself. Thanks Great channel, looking forward to seeing your finished saw in action
I came across your channel and videos about the Wadkin Table saw because I'm currently looking a similar Wadkin saw, I can get it almost for free. My question is simple, are you happy about the saw in your shop for daily use? Thank you for great content! Allt the best from Denmark
Very nice video, and i love the subject. I am is restoring a old AGS10 as well. currently i am just missing resurfacing the cast iron tops. everything else has been stripped down and painted, so it is pretty much done. I was not able to easily determine where you come from, but if your not that far from Denmark i might be able to help you with some parts. I have 2 original handles and a base (not cracked) if you are interested :-). The parts come from the 2nd saw that i have used for donating parts.
I am really enjoying this restoration project but I am interested in what will you do with your old table saw once the project is completed? Will you modify your awesome work centre to accommodate the new saw?🤔👍
Consider this: The front adjustment handwheel tilts with the saw as you adjust the cut angle. If you replace the front handwheel with one that is too large, it might bang against the table top. It could get so close that you can't turn it. Consider that before you go through the trouble of making yours fit. You might want to do some research and copy the size of the original handles. Cast iron is great, but it's more important that it work, and work through its complete arc. Good luck!
Just watched this series which was ace by the way but I have just obtained the same saw and wondered if you had details of the motor you used also specifically the pulley, did you bore the original or get a new pulley? If so from where pls.
A question for you please, some of the saws work with a flanged 3phase,3hp motor.So the flange is the baseplate which bolt straight onto the machine. I also want ,or have to go to 220 volt single phase. The baseplate you used was it standard on your saw or did you make it. If so do you have a drawing for me. Thank You so much. Basie from South Africa.
Honestly, I would put that replacement handle on the side where there is more room to operate it and then put the one from the side (the original) on the front. Will look better as well.
I'm a little OCD about such thing and would really like the handles to be the same. I have two of the new handles. If they don't work I'll head back to the drawing board
I don't think welding that crack in the frame is going to be all that problematic, its mostly cosmetic, you could also use JB Weld to fill it and then grind/sand it smooth, the riving knife frame on the other hand is a different matter
Excellent video,. I've just bought one of these saws and would have struggled to get it in the car without this video. Thanks. 👍
Handy having all the disassembly on video for when it comes time to reassemble.
This is making my OCD happy. Can't wait to see the finished restoration.
Nice project! I actually liked the rebar wheel:p looking forward to see it finished, good luck!
This channel suddenly turned into My mechanics. 😁 I'm eagerly waiting for sandblasting and discarding a few parts & making new ones.
Don’t forget the use of the orange bin to wash parts.
Jean if the spindle bearings are knackered to replace them with the original G88503 ones will cost a fortune (saw them on ebay for $50.. yikes!).
I used a good quality Timken 6203 sealed bearing (R70 at bearing man and am sure it will do the job just fine). Only difference is the centre core is 12mm wide on the 6203 and 16.6 on the original 88503 (outer race width remains the same at 12 mm). I made some 2.3 mm x 17 ID spacers in order to still be able to centre the spindle so it will work with the riving knife.
I have to use one these beauties at work. A high school in UK. Definitely fit the riving knife and a crown guard. I like the suggestion of the bigger wheel on the angle tilt control. In the centre of the handwheels there is a locking knob, which has a brass washer... don't over tighten the knob !!! Wadkin's website has the old manuals. Or a quick Google search finds them.
Hey, I love the re-bar handle, it's awesome but obviously not OEM but till cool. Looking forward to paint and reassembly.. well done!!
Thanks for that video. I just bought same and also starting with restoration. Hope i will see your next video soon
I wept on every wadkin machine videos....I really wanted one of these heavy duty machines. Beautiful
At 3:40 the hole in the spindle housing is for a 3/8 whitworth x 1” hex bolt that holds the trapping collar to keep the spindle centred . You will need to align it with the riving knife once it is assembled then tighten the bolt.
Awesome, thanks!
Bon début bravo à bientôt salut Jeannot 🛠😉
Hi, I got hold of an old cast iron Bursgreen jointer and the hole you were referring to on the spindle I think is fora grease nipple. On mine you just screw it to add lubricant. Good luck with the rebuild. My issue is that the fence has twisted slight!
Looks like a great old saw worthy of the love, treat it right and it will pay you back in spades!! Great job👍👍👍
Nice Jean, looking forward to seeing how it progresses! Regards and blessings, Mark
I’m jealous! Worth the effort man. Like everything you do it will be well thought through and beautifully finished. 👴🏻🇦🇺
Really exciting project. I'm looking forward to follow your progress.
I could take it apart, but I’d never get it back together. Best regards from England.
I saw a guy who did a rebuild on a table saw and he did the housing in plywood. I am not a huge fan of it but it's an option. Good luck and keep up the great work.
If I were looking to repair the cracked cabinet then I would probably use brazing instead of welding. Have you considered it as an option?
I have but unfortunately I am not confident enough in my own skill to attempt it myself. I am speaking to people who are more informed and I will be making a decision soon.
@@WoodshopJunkies Good luck with it, I agree that if it is cast iron, brazing is your better bet, and is far easier (from what i have seen people do on videos) than they explain welding cast iron would be to do. Here is a video for it that may be useful th-cam.com/video/jM2_LBvzg6c/w-d-xo.html
Agree on the brazing, Keith Fenner(Turnwright machine works) and Keith Rucker(Vintage Machinery.org) do brazing repairs ,they believe it's the best option in terms of longevity
I agree. Cast iron repair = brazing.
If done correctly it would be invisible when painted.
The secret is to get the cast iron part up to 400 deg. C., use either a gas torch or stick welder with the correct rods, then, when finished, cover with a load of welding blankets and allow to cool slowly.
Clean up can be left until it has cooled back to room temperature.
Awesome project. Cant wait to see what happens next.
I love these saws! Almost bought one but I missed the opportunity.
I feel for you on all the broken parts. I'm currently restoring a german jointer and I'll have to fabricate a few parts too. I'll be posting a video on my channel soon.
Swap the side handle with the front handle, and I don't think the size difference will matter
Jean rather than welding the top part with the crack try to find someone who can do Cast iron braising as that would be way way stronger than any welding plus you can blend it together smoothly for when you paint!!!.
Don't forget my offer if you struggle with part's and shipping etc. Looking forward to seeing the results 💯% 👍🇬🇧.
Brazing is easier than welding too! You could do it yourself.
@@MichaeltheCrank not if I wanted it done right, I've seen it done and welding seemed way easier
Such a nice workbench. Why did you not protect it from all the dirt and grease? Can't wait to see the finished product.
Brilliant saws. Just finished restoring an old AGS 10. Really enjoyable project. Mine was missing the fence, I built a new one based on ask wood man's tutorials. Mine also lacks the true riving knife which is a bit of a bummer.
Reving knife lol, vroom vroom. Great video, looking forward to the restoration 👍
I agree with those who recommend braising. Also, cast parts are prone to cracking with vibration. It is a good practice to meticulously remove all sharp edges or burrs. That is where cracks can start even with no stress other than vibration. That is how engine blocks are prepared for rebuilding. That crack may have simply been caused by vibration setting up a harmonic in a sharp right angle of the casting.
Good video and content
Awesome Jean. You have some work cut out for you. Keep at it.
Hi Jean, great job so far , it's going be like new and should last you a lifetime. Could you put me in touch with the guy that supplied you the cast round wheel , i'm interested in getting some myself. Thanks
Great channel, looking forward to seeing your finished saw in action
Sure, you can get in touch with him through his Instagram. That's how I communicate with him. instagram.com/street_life_bmx?igshid=1wigy1wta74y0
Awesome stuff. I'm looking for both handles for mine, anything would help as mine where both missing when I got the machine
I came across your channel and videos about the Wadkin Table saw because I'm currently looking a similar Wadkin saw, I can get it almost for free. My question is simple, are you happy about the saw in your shop for daily use? Thank you for great content! Allt the best from Denmark
Very nice video, and i love the subject. I am is restoring a old AGS10 as well. currently i am just missing resurfacing the cast iron tops. everything else has been stripped down and painted, so it is pretty much done. I was not able to easily determine where you come from, but if your not that far from Denmark i might be able to help you with some parts.
I have 2 original handles and a base (not cracked) if you are interested :-). The parts come from the 2nd saw that i have used for donating parts.
I suspect there's a how-to video on another channel from 5-10 years ago showing you how to make replacement crank handles out of rebar.
I am really enjoying this restoration project but I am interested in what will you do with your old table saw once the project is completed? Will you modify your awesome work centre to accommodate the new saw?🤔👍
Consider this: The front adjustment handwheel tilts with the saw as you adjust the cut angle. If you replace the front handwheel with one that is too large, it might bang against the table top. It could get so close that you can't turn it. Consider that before you go through the trouble of making yours fit. You might want to do some research and copy the size of the original handles. Cast iron is great, but it's more important that it work, and work through its complete arc. Good luck!
Thanks! I didn't consider that so I'll have to look into it.
Honestly, I think the rebar handle is cool looking. I'd make another one on the other side to match it, well, if I had that skill, lol.
Just watched this series which was ace by the way but I have just obtained the same saw and wondered if you had details of the motor you used also specifically the pulley, did you bore the original or get a new pulley? If so from where pls.
Maybe team up with Alexandre Chappel for the casting of parts. Could get the molds you need printed. Can’t wait to see finished product.
you should try brazing the cracks not as hard on cast iron
Are you going to incorporate that saw into your pre-existing workbench after the restoration
I plan to.
A question for you please, some of the saws work with a flanged 3phase,3hp motor.So the flange is the baseplate which bolt straight onto the machine. I also want ,or have to go to 220 volt single phase.
The baseplate you used was it standard on your saw or did you make it. If so do you have a drawing for me. Thank You so much. Basie from South Africa.
would brazing the cast iron do the job? it would be at a much lower temperature, and retain the dimensions...
Many have suggested it so I am busy looking into it.
Are you gonna 3d print them and have them cast? Bronze might be nice.
Why don’t u use a impact driver
If you have it welded make sure you take it to someone that know how to weld or braze cast iron. Welding cast iron correctly is an art in itself.
PS. These saws are the bomb
Honestly, I would put that replacement handle on the side where there is more room to operate it and then put the one from the side (the original) on the front. Will look better as well.
I'm a little OCD about such thing and would really like the handles to be the same. I have two of the new handles. If they don't work I'll head back to the drawing board
Stay with the same color if you can. If not, it's yours, make it how you want it.
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
I don't think welding that crack in the frame is going to be all that problematic, its mostly cosmetic, you could also use JB Weld to fill it and then grind/sand it smooth, the riving knife frame on the other hand is a different matter
welding cast iron is not the best idea, better try brazing it instead it will hold up better i think, goes for the riving knife bracket aswell
this is killing me. how much longer do we have to wait for next part😭😭
My dad work is woodwork
Check Vintage Machinery.org , might find a Manuel for your saw
I have already sent him the manual 😃
@@johannesmohr967 Vintagemachinery.org is also good site for other information too, pictures of other saws that have been restored and other stuff
Here is a source for handel parts. McMaster-Carr Page:
www.mcmaster.com/Hand-Wheels
That saw has been ridden hard and put away wet.
Don’t weld cast iron, have it brazed and the repair will last forever.
Yeah..... No.... definately fix the riving knife! 😟