Thank you so much for the video. My English is horrible, but I could understand pretty well. It is easier with an acoustic explanation, then the automatic translator works. Thanks again. (I'm german)
Thank you for the appreciation! I'm definitely thinking to put a voice in to my videos one day, but for now it's not possible. Stay tuned, I planned more videos for the next month.
Ho comprato il vostro elettrolita a base di acido solforico, il processo è sicuro a livello di esalazioni? Si può fare in una stanza chiusa (ma ventilabile) o servono maschere di protezione?
Il processo è sicuro, l'acido solforico non è volatile ed è in quantità minima, l'unica cosa che evapora è l'acqua. Se hai altre domande e necessiti di aiuto puoi contattarmi su facebook o instagram.
@@cuformingGrazie per la risposta, sta funzionando molto bene con le stampe 3D. Un’altra domanda da ignorante: l’elettrolita si esaurisce e va sostituito? O gli ioni Cu vengono sempre aggiunti dagli elettrodi di rame?
@@mblf L'elettrolita non si esaurisce ma ha bisogno di manutenzione, la prima cosa da fare è aggiungere acqua quando evapora, aggiungere il brightener quando la superficie del rame non è più lucida, e raramente, aggiungere acido solforico in alcuni casi specifici. Contattami su instagram o facebook così ti posso dare maggiori informazioni su come fare la manutenzione.
The resistance of the graphite paint and leaf is preventing the copper from depositing on the bottom part at first. I think it would help to start with the current very low, until the whole leaf is covered with a thin layer. After that, the current can be increased to normal. If it's too much, you see large crystals of copper form. If you want nice finish, the current can't be too strong.
Thank you for pointing it out. Even if the coat of paint had no resistance at all, the copper deposition would always start from the first point of connection on the top.
@@skelieskaal4693 For the brushes I use acetone, since the conductive paint I use is acetone base. If you use water base paint, you can clean your brushes with water or alcohol, but it depends on the binder it has in it. For the copper anodes, I usually don't clean them unless there is some white oxide forming on top when they dry outside the tank. A normal oxidation of the anodes is green, and I don't clean that because the oxide will fall inside the anode bag and stay there and is not gonna get dissolved in the solution. If you wanna clean them, you can just sand them to clean the surface. Don't breathe that dust, do it under a faucet with a wet sand paper or a scotch brite sponge.
@@cuforming Thank you so much for the info. I keep reading where people use only distilled water but is that necessary for cleaning? I’ll chk which base is my conductive paint - I purchased Cat Music conductive paint, as I’ve heard good things. Thx., again.
@@skelieskaal4693 Is not really necessary to waste a lot of distilled water to wash your equipment. I wash everything with tap water and wipe all the drops with paper towel at the end. If it's necessary after a wash with tap water, I do a fast rinse in distilled water and then wipe. Cat Music paint is water base and the binder is acrylic. If you can't clean the acrylic off your brush with alcohol, try acetone as last resort.
The copper layer is thin, like a sheet of paper, or thinner? It can be caused by the time you are letting it in the bath, the conductive paint you are using, the kind of surface and the stiffness of the object you are electroforming. Change one of these three variables and also watch the part 2 of this tutorial and add brightener to get a better result. If you need more help, you can reach with me on Facebook or Instagram.
You probably need to use artificial leaves like this example, or you need to seal the leaf with a sealing agent to stop the acidic solution getting into the leaf.
This video is meant for those who wanna start electroforming. Subscribe to learn how to do it!
طزظزطزدکظزژردطدککزظطظککرژطورظءطذدزظطکگدظگزززکطزژطذطرطزززءژگظروذطظطزوگذءکطظورگءطظژظطوککظءظطورطزررءطططکذطگطوطططططگطوزظططططظگروءوطگوررگدطو
@@jasneman4232 Thank you!
Thank you so much for the video. My English is horrible, but I could understand pretty well. It is easier with an acoustic explanation, then the automatic translator works. Thanks again. (I'm german)
Thank you for the appreciation! I'm definitely thinking to put a voice in to my videos one day, but for now it's not possible. Stay tuned, I planned more videos for the next month.
Super video, thanks!
Thank you so much!!! That's just the part one, go check out the part 2 th-cam.com/video/l7ejHV3LJaY/w-d-xo.htmlsi=fFmhzfHynvTQ36bw
Really nice tutorial
Glad you liked it! Thanks!!!
UN VIDEO VERAMENTE BELLO
Ho comprato il vostro elettrolita a base di acido solforico, il processo è sicuro a livello di esalazioni? Si può fare in una stanza chiusa (ma ventilabile) o servono maschere di protezione?
Il processo è sicuro, l'acido solforico non è volatile ed è in quantità minima, l'unica cosa che evapora è l'acqua. Se hai altre domande e necessiti di aiuto puoi contattarmi su facebook o instagram.
@@cuformingGrazie per la risposta, sta funzionando molto bene con le stampe 3D. Un’altra domanda da ignorante: l’elettrolita si esaurisce e va sostituito? O gli ioni Cu vengono sempre aggiunti dagli elettrodi di rame?
@@mblf L'elettrolita non si esaurisce ma ha bisogno di manutenzione, la prima cosa da fare è aggiungere acqua quando evapora, aggiungere il brightener quando la superficie del rame non è più lucida, e raramente, aggiungere acido solforico in alcuni casi specifici. Contattami su instagram o facebook così ti posso dare maggiori informazioni su come fare la manutenzione.
thank you
How many amps is the rectifier you use? Congratulations on the beautiful work.
Thank you!!! Check the second part of this video: th-cam.com/video/l7ejHV3LJaY/w-d-xo.html
The resistance of the graphite paint and leaf is preventing the copper from depositing on the bottom part at first. I think it would help to start with the current very low, until the whole leaf is covered with a thin layer. After that, the current can be increased to normal. If it's too much, you see large crystals of copper form. If you want nice finish, the current can't be too strong.
Thank you for pointing it out. Even if the coat of paint had no resistance at all, the copper deposition would always start from the first point of connection on the top.
Thanks ❤
Thank you!!!
What do you recommend cleaning your brushes with and even your copper with? I’m afraid of contamination- would alcohol work? Thx
Can you be more specific? The brushes used for? The copper at which stage?
@@cuforming the brushes used for painting the paint on conductive paint. The copper used for suspension into the bath.
@@skelieskaal4693 For the brushes I use acetone, since the conductive paint I use is acetone base. If you use water base paint, you can clean your brushes with water or alcohol, but it depends on the binder it has in it.
For the copper anodes, I usually don't clean them unless there is some white oxide forming on top when they dry outside the tank. A normal oxidation of the anodes is green, and I don't clean that because the oxide will fall inside the anode bag and stay there and is not gonna get dissolved in the solution. If you wanna clean them, you can just sand them to clean the surface. Don't breathe that dust, do it under a faucet with a wet sand paper or a scotch brite sponge.
@@cuforming Thank you so much for the info. I keep reading where people use only distilled water but is that necessary for cleaning? I’ll chk which base is my conductive paint - I purchased Cat Music conductive paint, as I’ve heard good things. Thx., again.
@@skelieskaal4693 Is not really necessary to waste a lot of distilled water to wash your equipment. I wash everything with tap water and wipe all the drops with paper towel at the end. If it's necessary after a wash with tap water, I do a fast rinse in distilled water and then wipe.
Cat Music paint is water base and the binder is acrylic. If you can't clean the acrylic off your brush with alcohol, try acetone as last resort.
Good job 🥰🤗🤗
Where is the vidéo part 2 please ?
I'm working on it. I hope it'll be the next one. Thank you.
@@cuforming yesss 🙏🤗
Hi, I am not able to buy the products that are listed in the description box... is any copper plating solution suitable for this?
Check this video: th-cam.com/video/E5jRqZipnIU/w-d-xo.html and make it on your own. You can also try this one on Amazon: amzn.to/3uxK396
You can find here all necessary kit.co/cuforming/electroforming-solution
Hi! For dc power supply, is 0-15W enough to do electroform?
Yes. it's good.
Why is mine coming out crispy and breaking apart
The copper layer is thin, like a sheet of paper, or thinner? It can be caused by the time you are letting it in the bath, the conductive paint you are using, the kind of surface and the stiffness of the object you are electroforming. Change one of these three variables and also watch the part 2 of this tutorial and add brightener to get a better result. If you need more help, you can reach with me on Facebook or Instagram.
You probably need to use artificial leaves like this example, or you need to seal the leaf with a sealing agent to stop the acidic solution getting into the leaf.
Y la parte dos?❤❤❤
aqui esta la segunda parte para ti: th-cam.com/video/l7ejHV3LJaY/w-d-xo.html