Chouinard's original 1963 AAJ comment was that the Valley had few easy climbs. Chouinard's article was reproduced in Rowell's Yosemite book. Yvon also said that the climbing was "not particularly aesthetic . . .merely hard. " If you want to experience easy Yosemite climbs, climb at Tahquitz first. Dozier was not only a climbing partner, but he was my #2 PhD advisor who recently died from injuries from being hit by a UPS truck at Reno Airport.
I've done La Cosita Left Side, and Cathedral. The first seemed reasonable at 5.7, but it was 30+ years ago. That pitch was really memorable as it looks much harder than it is.
I watched just to see what routes were included. Yosemite is a N.A Mecca with easily 100, if not 100's of climbs at 5.8 or under. I feel so fortunate to have made my first of dozens of a pilgrimage in 78. The fact that you can climb 'down valley' at Arch and the Cookie on a sunny winter day, be in the Valley proper in May, Tuolumne for June, July and August and back to the valley for September and October is just amazing ! A complete wonderland for the new comer, a Disneyland for the seasoned and zoo for the veterans. A mistake so many climbers make is to say "I am not good enough to go to the Valley yet" (fallacy). If you climb all summer at a small local crag, you will get way better after two months in the Valley than two full seasons at your local crag. Literally 100's of routes under 5.10a and a 5.8 climber can usually progress to moderate ten's (opening up 1000's of potential classics) in a month or two :)
Thanks for commenting - Also you having the opportunity to climb in the valley in the 70’s, very cool. I’m sure it’s changed a bit (more crowded, better gear, easier information on the routes). This was my first time climbing in Yosemite and boy was I a bit intimidated - especially when we climbed some of the base routes off El Cap, staring up at thousands of feet of perfect granite. I definitely felt the 5.7 in the valley was way more difficult then a 5.7 up in Tuolumne. I can’t wait to go back (headed there this weekend). Yosemite is a special place! Thanks for your comment Gilray. Cheers
I gave up my Tc pros after using them for years… The new ones don’t fit my feet. The Up Lace was a random try and man do I love them. They are my “trad dad” shoe so I got them in my street shoe size. I love them with a pair of socks. 🧦 check them out, great for edging, smearing and cracks. Cheers
Haha I mean I guess that depends who you ask. This was my first time in the Valley and wow it did not disappoint. One of these days I’ll do a Lance camper video. Btw, the Lance got a Dead sticker 💀 Cheers.
Brings back great memories. Thank you for sharing.
Chouinard's original 1963 AAJ comment was that the Valley had few easy climbs. Chouinard's article was reproduced in Rowell's Yosemite book. Yvon also said that the climbing was "not particularly aesthetic . . .merely hard. " If you want to experience easy Yosemite climbs, climb at Tahquitz first.
Dozier was not only a climbing partner, but he was my #2 PhD advisor who recently died from injuries from being hit by a UPS truck at Reno Airport.
I've done La Cosita Left Side, and Cathedral. The first seemed reasonable at 5.7, but it was 30+ years ago. That pitch was really memorable as it looks much harder than it is.
I watched just to see what routes were included. Yosemite is a N.A Mecca with easily 100, if not 100's of climbs at 5.8 or under. I feel so fortunate to have made my first of dozens of a pilgrimage in 78. The fact that you can climb 'down valley' at Arch and the Cookie on a sunny winter day, be in the Valley proper in May, Tuolumne for June, July and August and back to the valley for September and October is just amazing ! A complete wonderland for the new comer, a Disneyland for the seasoned and zoo for the veterans. A mistake so many climbers make is to say "I am not good enough to go to the Valley yet" (fallacy). If you climb all summer at a small local crag, you will get way better after two months in the Valley than two full seasons at your local crag. Literally 100's of routes under 5.10a and a 5.8 climber can usually progress to moderate ten's (opening up 1000's of potential classics) in a month or two :)
Thanks for commenting - Also you having the opportunity to climb in the valley in the 70’s, very cool. I’m sure it’s changed a bit (more crowded, better gear, easier information on the routes). This was my first time climbing in Yosemite and boy was I a bit intimidated - especially when we climbed some of the base routes off El Cap, staring up at thousands of feet of perfect granite. I definitely felt the 5.7 in the valley was way more difficult then a 5.7 up in Tuolumne. I can’t wait to go back (headed there this weekend). Yosemite is a special place! Thanks for your comment Gilray.
Cheers
that last one looks so sick
Cathedral SE Buttress - 100% recommend - It’s an easy climb, protection is great plus you’ll also have people soloing past you.
Living the life love it!!
The only way to live it!
How do you like those Up Laces? I was thinking of giving the TC Pros and break to get resoled and buying a pair too!
I gave up my Tc pros after using them for years… The new ones don’t fit my feet. The Up Lace was a random try and man do I love them. They are my “trad dad” shoe so I got them in my street shoe size. I love them with a pair of socks. 🧦 check them out, great for edging, smearing and cracks. Cheers
“easy”??? hahaha. great video. beautiful area of course. the Lance is lookin tight too. keep on trucking my friend.
Haha I mean I guess that depends who you ask.
This was my first time in the Valley and wow it did not disappoint.
One of these days I’ll do a Lance camper video.
Btw, the Lance got a Dead sticker 💀
Cheers.