Before you Build - Bike Project How to Series
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ต.ค. 2024
- Getting ready to tackle your first project bike? This video was made just for you. This week we are prepping all the parts needed to rebuild a 1995? Cannondale Cad 2 Mountain Bike. Thank you to our great channel partners @Bikeflights and www.marquecycling.com for their generous support. Please check out their channels/ websites forget deals on bike accessories and shipping services.
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#howtovideos #bikerestoration #coolbikeprojects
Dude where were you 2 years ago when I embarked on my wrenching journey. Seriously such GREAT info! Budget and the little details are often overlooked. Some other tips for folks shopping used bikes is to try to remove a seatpost when you’re demoing the bike. You’ll know what you’re up against if you can’t pull it up out of the tube. Also be ready to negotiate a lower price to factor in the cost of replacement parts. 10-25% depending on the state of the bike. Happy N+1
Thanks JP. Excellent advise on the seat post check.
Great channel, informative, liked and subscribed!
Just what we need more of...Bike restoration videos 👍
With my son's early 90s MTB and my similar era Colnago roadbike it was with more good luck and patience than anything that I found parts, 1 1/8 threaded headsets, Italian threads, odd seat post diameter etc...thanks internet 👍... Surprisingly the Italian thread 70 mm BB came brand new from ztto China, Shimano hollowtech compatible...
This is the kind of content I need. All the proprietary sizes, specification changes, etc make it really difficult to know if the project will work or be worth the cost. Please remember that most of us haven't worked in a bike shop, so your comments on how you know a part will work in a specific situation are super helpful. I was actually gifted a vintage bike with a broken frame with the Dura-Ace road group by a co-worker who was moving out of town and didn't have time to strip the parts. My next project is to upgrade my Trek 500 I bought new in 1985 with the Dura-Ace parts. Thanks for the awesome videos.
Thanks David!
I m comming from Macedonia, Europe and i love watching your videos i bought 2 years ago Cube AIM 2020 and it was Tourney 3x8 rookie groupset so i made myself a groupset 3x9 and SunTour Raidon fork because i didn't have any tools a friend of mine i paid him for all the parts and the hand and he made it! And he told some people comming to him he is mechanic and they telling him parts that don't belong each other like (Tourney with SLX LOL)
Thanks for your comment. I'd love to hear about the mountain biking in Macedonia!
So much excellent info, Rusty! I'm restoring my 91 Gary Fisher Procaliber and it's a doozy for hard-to-find parts with the Suntour xc pro gruppo to the Evolution headset and esp the bb! I bought it brand new way back and it's super special. So I'm committed.
Keep em coming, dude!
Thanks Patrick, best wishes on your Gary Fischer!
I have a 1998 cannondale f500 I'm looking forward to reassembling with new parts. Great video and tips.
Thanks for watching Tanner and best wishes on your build!
I’ve seen so many of those old cannondales have a hairline crack on the seat stay wishbone right where the bolts go in. The crack can go unnoticed very easily
Those old Cannondale’s rock. Very informative video for sure, and so looking forward to seeing the finished product. I think a modern 1X would suit this build nicely. Cheers
Thanks Kevin. I think a 1x would be fun on this too. I'll check the chainlink when we start putting parts back on the bike and see what we can do. Right now I have a 3x9 system ready to go.
Another blindingly brilliant video Russ as for the rake of forks .get an angle gauge app on your phone . On an old raleigh, like you I had a 60 mm travel for and the rake was steep went with 80mm fork and had a nice 64° angle .it rode so much better
Thanks Nick I definitely need to get the gauge app so I can show that better.
On the F500 I built luckily the Rock Shox recon silver fork works like a charm. It actually improved the geometry from the headshok. Headshok parts are hard to find as well.
I just don't care for the way headshocks look. Now the lefty fork. I love the look of those.
I love Recon forks. They were/are so well built. Glad it worked out on your bike!
Funny… as I type I have a 1996 (I think) M200 frame in the stand. It will be a commuter bike for my law partner’s son to take to college. It should be rock solid, although the frame does have some scratches that indicate that the frame has been used before. I have no plans, however, to repaint. Why? It tells a story and rust is no problem.
So far, the bike hasn’t fought me. Everything has gone on without incident. The parts are almost all new. It’ll be MicroSHIFT Advent 9-speed. There’s an IXF crankset with a 38T chainring and Shimano T4000 V brakes and levers. I am using a threadless adaptor and a very serviceable set of bars from Amazon for $17. I need to find a rack for the rear and maybe a basket. This is for carting stuff around a very large southern university.
These 90s mountain bikes are great. They can be almost anything. This bike should be perfect for use. Nonetheless, this has not been a cheap project.
That is awesome Peter. My brother in law has never had a "new" mountain bike and I asked him if he had a favorite color so we are attempting to make this a new bike for him. Assuming I get the Frame back next week I'll have the video up next Saturday.
A fellow gave me a Trek Anytelope frame with a bent derailleur hanger, I was able to get it back in line and now I discover that the frame is also bent slightly so that the rear wheel does not slip in to the drop outs. I have cold set one frame and I'm on the fence about spreading this rear triangle. It is hanging in the garage until I decide. High class first world problem I know. thanks for the video and I love the old "Dales.
Best of luck on the frame Bob. I don't know how off center the rear triangle is, but older bike shops still have frame alignment tools and may be able to help you out.
I like checking BB drop when I pre assemble the frame, fork and wheels. It’s another line in the sand for geo. If you end up with BB above the rear axle it’s another thing that will make it feel weird to corner. At least on a hardtail. You have to sag an FS bike to check that.
Great observation! The early 2000's suspension bikes often had crazy high bottom brackets.
So excited to see how this comes out. I really love that frame!
Finding CODA parts is a bitch along with that Derailleur hanger. I built a F500 and a M300 and I was banging my head.
Ha ha, yes it is really hard to find an original set of CODA components to match the 90's Cannondale.
@@CoolBikeProjects if you find it new old stock grab it lol.
love your show, i was wondering what is the cost for powder coating a bike frame.
Hi Carl, thanks for watching. Frame and fork typically runs around $150 for sand blasting and a single stage powder coat.
@@CoolBikeProjects Thank you so much for the info. I'm working on a genesis 2900 that's a 29 inch mountain bike. It's a hard tail and it's going to a challenge because of the the rear end dimensions of 135 to 142 mm that it has. I want to make it a 1x 12 but I think I can only make it a 1 x 11 another thing I don't like is it's doesn't have a direct mount derailleur. I've been doing bikes about six months and getting spec's are hard to get for some bike's. Your show is very informative. I've got the skills to do most of the work, but something are better left to the professionals. I'll send you some pics as I start and progress thru the project.
Thanks for this video, and your others! I’m still a bit confused about the geometry aspect, and don’t yet have a keen enough eye to judge by sight. Do you have a head tube angle that is generally advisable to stay over or around? I’m rebuilding a 94 stumpjumper fs, and would like to use the rockshox recon silver tk 100mm fork. As a side note in case it helps anyone else, I have verified that the fork can be adjusted down to 80mm with a spacer. There was a lot of contradictory info out there, so I finally took it apart to check.
Short answer, older bikes from the mid 90's commonly had 70-71 degree head tube angles due to the geometry favoring tigher turning under lower speeds and shorter wheelbases. Modern trail bikes are more common at 65-67 degrees as they favor faster downhill over rough terrain. They also have a longer wheel base and beefed up head tube to handle the stress on the fork rake. If you bike is between 71-68 degree with the new fork and doesn't feel too squirelly when steering then you can rock a longer fork. Best wishes on your project!
@@CoolBikeProjects Thank you for taking the time to reply, I really appreciate it! That all makes perfect sense.
Parts are hard to buy these days even new one's. ..
First
Go Gab!