Great video. Started archery several years ago and just now getting into building my own arrows and this video hit everything I wanted to see. So may videos cover basics but leave out component install and knock tuning. The weighing and sorting was a thing I had not thought of before as well. Again, great video and much appreciated.
Lancaster Archery did a really good video about fletching your arrows the same way it comes off the bow. The arrow shooting the left spin arrow fletched with a right helical was already spinning to the right within a couple feet out of the bow. I dont like seeing that fight between how it comes off the string and what the fletchings make it do but no matter how it comes out of the bow a right helical easily outweighs a left spin especially if using a single bevel. That being said bow string makers need to start making strings so arrows come off the bow spinning to the right.
They do make left bevel heads! And right helical is better for all the expandables that have offset blades otherwise you lose penetration spinning left with blades wanting to open from a right offset design
If I had one recommendation when you were spending your arrows I would hold the bottom of that spinner so it could not rock back and forth therefore you got a really solid structure and you know it's no wobble influenced by the spinner moving
Good stuff, I've built my own for a very long time, but I like the tuning steps you do. Ive never done that and quite frankly had never taken the time to weigh components. Getting back into some more target based shooting so will have to start being more precise. Trying TAC vanes, pin nocks and glue in points for this set. didn't go with pierces, let alone platinum, but did standard ultralights as I am shooting a couple of TAC events this year and a few less $$ per shaft if broken or lost will be more palatable...lol. Also first time gluing carbon shafts in a long time as I have shot FMJ's for a long time. Don't know if you ever do target points but I am thinking hot melt for the points themselves, and just standard CA for everything else like always. Enjoyed the content!
I have seen a lot of how to videos on this process. Yours has got to be the best yet. One question. Did you fletch right and left helical? Or did all the arrows rotate left?
The only question i have is choosing a spine for arrows cause when i look at the charts I'm in between a 400 spine and a 350 spine and I'm just lost on which i should choose hopefully you have a video that helps but great video
Hello, nice video. About the target behind the paper tuning rig, where did you get the foam pieces if you don’t mind sharing. I’m looking into building one of these for walk back tuning but foam is kinda expensive. Did you happen to find these in bulk by any chance? Thank you
How important is bullet holes? When your trying to group broadheads to field points and your rest adjusting, clearly your tuned bow will now be ripping left or right on paper. Id just like to have the option of fixed and mechanicals in my quiver so grouping is pretty important to me
If your fixed broadhead is your main head then I would definitely tune your bow to that head. But in our case we typically focus on mechanical heads and our fixed have been very close to our tuned mechanicals
I'm curious how did you know the arrow spun to the left off your string and not to the right? I know you mentioned because the little notch on the nock. I'm still not following how you knew it spun to the left. Is it because the distance you were standing at wouldn't allow the arrow to spin all the way around if it had spun to the right? not sure if I'm making sense, I apologize. just confused on how you new it spun left.
Correct, it would not have enough time to make a full rotation therefore my bow shot it spinning left. You can mark them with a pen or sharpie to be sure where your arrow starts in the nocked position and it will be pretty easy to determine what way it spins
@@tagemoutdoors405 thank you so much. my 2 boys are starting to get very involved with archery and we've begun to build our own arrows. this video was so informative i can't thank you enough.
When determining which way the arrow spins after leaving the bow, I would think shooting at several different distances rather than just one distance would provide better results. Maybe you did that and didn't show it. That way you can see as the arrow rotates more which way it progresses. I have 4 bows and only one of them bareshaft spins to the left. So maybe shoot at 4 feet, then 5 feet and then 6 feet.
You want to shoot a bare shaft as close as possible to a target to clock the rotation. If you allow the arrow to make a full rotation then you wouldn’t know if it was clocking left or clocking right. The rotation won’t change with distance on a bare shaft, so there’s no benefit to shooting further distances.
At 1:31, you say that you have a 28' draw, so you're cutting the arrows at 27 1/2" How did you determine the amount to cut? I have a 31" draw. Should I leave my shafts 32"?
I would recommend loading an uncut arrow in your bow and drawing it back. While at full draw, have someone mark about and inch ahead of your rest launcher and make that your cut mark. Make sure to take into consideration your outsert. You don't want it to touch your rest. I would assume it will be a bit shorter than your draw length. You could always leave them at 32" as well. It will just be a little long.
Great video. But the vein gluing jig is utter garbage. I know - I have 2 of them. I use them to glue masses of arrows for total beginners and that is the only application suitable for those jigs.
Great video, probably the best arrow build guide I've seen yet. Thank you! Very enjoyable to watch.
Wow you just absolutely open my eyes on how crucial paper tuning a bare shaft arrow is. Thank you very informative and will add this to my process.
You’re welcome, Glad to hear!!
Started doing this process about 3 years ago and tighten up my group especially at long range. Thanks for a great video!
Outstanding video, keep up the great work.
Thank you!!
Great video. Started archery several years ago and just now getting into building my own arrows and this video hit everything I wanted to see. So may videos cover basics but leave out component install and knock tuning. The weighing and sorting was a thing I had not thought of before as well. Again, great video and much appreciated.
Glad we could help you out!!
Keep up the good work 💪 love seeing the work you put into these
This is crazy I got same exact arrows.with same exact color combo vanes for a year already love my kinetic Pierce platinums with 2.25 TAC
I seem to like them a lot as well!
Super job!!!! Best of luck this turkey season.
Excellent Bro, it definitely helped ❤
Great build video!
Thanks!
Man I love what you guys are doing! Keep up the stellar work! Hope to see you around the woods one day! New Subscriber. Mike in Tosa WI.
Thank you!! We appreciate it. Maybe we'll run into each other sometime!
@@tagemoutdoors405 Yes Sir indeed. Hopefully at the truck, dragging a “Tag’em” harvest!
Lancaster Archery did a really good video about fletching your arrows the same way it comes off the bow. The arrow shooting the left spin arrow fletched with a right helical was already spinning to the right within a couple feet out of the bow. I dont like seeing that fight between how it comes off the string and what the fletchings make it do but no matter how it comes out of the bow a right helical easily outweighs a left spin especially if using a single bevel. That being said bow string makers need to start making strings so arrows come off the bow spinning to the right.
They do make left bevel heads! And right helical is better for all the expandables that have offset blades otherwise you lose penetration spinning left with blades wanting to open from a right offset design
I honestly don't think it matters that much.
If I had one recommendation when you were spending your arrows I would hold the bottom of that spinner so it could not rock back and forth therefore you got a really solid structure and you know it's no wobble influenced by the spinner moving
That is a good idea. Thank you!
Great vid, guys!!
Thank you!! Glad you enjoyed
Awesome video guys!
Good stuff, I've built my own for a very long time, but I like the tuning steps you do. Ive never done that and quite frankly had never taken the time to weigh components. Getting back into some more target based shooting so will have to start being more precise. Trying TAC vanes, pin nocks and glue in points for this set. didn't go with pierces, let alone platinum, but did standard ultralights as I am shooting a couple of TAC events this year and a few less $$ per shaft if broken or lost will be more palatable...lol. Also first time gluing carbon shafts in a long time as I have shot FMJ's for a long time. Don't know if you ever do target points but I am thinking hot melt for the points themselves, and just standard CA for everything else like always. Enjoyed the content!
Thanks!! That also sounds like a cool build! Good luck shooting 👍
Very good information . I am wondering what bow you are shooting . Great examples for finding arrow spine !
Bowtech Destroyer 350, 70# weight with a 27.5" draw length.
I have seen a lot of how to videos on this process.
Yours has got to be the best yet.
One question. Did you fletch right and left helical?
Or did all the arrows rotate left?
I did not shoot all of my arrows but they will all shoot the same so I fletched them with a left offset.
The only question i have is choosing a spine for arrows cause when i look at the charts I'm in between a 400 spine and a 350 spine and I'm just lost on which i should choose hopefully you have a video that helps but great video
Personally over spine than under spine.
Is there a benefit of doing a nock tune over just pointing the spine up on all arrows
Top notch ... 👍
Thank you
Hello, nice video. About the target behind the paper tuning rig, where did you get the foam pieces if you don’t mind sharing. I’m looking into building one of these for walk back tuning but foam is kinda expensive. Did you happen to find these in bulk by any chance? Thank you
No we did not sadly
When clock tuning, how are you turning your nock after it's already installed?
Your nocks should be removable. They are not glued in
How important is bullet holes? When your trying to group broadheads to field points and your rest adjusting, clearly your tuned bow will now be ripping left or right on paper. Id just like to have the option of fixed and mechanicals in my quiver so grouping is pretty important to me
If your fixed broadhead is your main head then I would definitely tune your bow to that head. But in our case we typically focus on mechanical heads and our fixed have been very close to our tuned mechanicals
@@tagemoutdoors405 Cheers for that!
Bullet holes means better fixed broadhead flight from the start so it’s the most important thing imo
Do you still paper tune after they are fletched or can you skip it
I would still do both yes.
Do you need to shoot each arrow or if one arrow does it then most and or all will do the same
Shoot every arrow, they will all vary some.
I'm curious how did you know the arrow spun to the left off your string and not to the right? I know you mentioned because the little notch on the nock. I'm still not following how you knew it spun to the left. Is it because the distance you were standing at wouldn't allow the arrow to spin all the way around if it had spun to the right? not sure if I'm making sense, I apologize. just confused on how you new it spun left.
Correct, it would not have enough time to make a full rotation therefore my bow shot it spinning left. You can mark them with a pen or sharpie to be sure where your arrow starts in the nocked position and it will be pretty easy to determine what way it spins
@@tagemoutdoors405 thank you so much. my 2 boys are starting to get very involved with archery and we've begun to build our own arrows. this video was so informative i can't thank you enough.
When determining which way the arrow spins after leaving the bow, I would think shooting at several different distances rather than just one distance would provide better results. Maybe you did that and didn't show it. That way you can see as the arrow rotates more which way it progresses. I have 4 bows and only one of them bareshaft spins to the left. So maybe shoot at 4 feet, then 5 feet and then 6 feet.
It really just needs to come off the string. A bare shaft arrow has no ability to change the rotation off your string.
You want to shoot a bare shaft as close as possible to a target to clock the rotation. If you allow the arrow to make a full rotation then you wouldn’t know if it was clocking left or clocking right. The rotation won’t change with distance on a bare shaft, so there’s no benefit to shooting further distances.
Great video, thank you. Please wear eye protection next time you cut arrows.
Nervous Nancy, you wear eye protection and stay out of other American’s business.
@@juliusjames5577 LMAO!!!
At 1:31, you say that you have a 28' draw, so you're cutting the arrows at 27 1/2"
How did you determine the amount to cut?
I have a 31" draw. Should I leave my shafts 32"?
I would recommend loading an uncut arrow in your bow and drawing it back. While at full draw, have someone mark about and inch ahead of your rest launcher and make that your cut mark. Make sure to take into consideration your outsert. You don't want it to touch your rest. I would assume it will be a bit shorter than your draw length. You could always leave them at 32" as well. It will just be a little long.
Why 90 degrees from spine? L or r?
What was your final arrow weight? Also DL & DW?
Arrow weight was 400g, Draw length is 27.5 and draw weight 70#
@@tagemoutdoors405 just curious since I noticed it was a 340, but couldn’t tell how heavy the insert was!
400 after the field tip?
If so, that thing is moving out of that bow. Very nice 👍👍
What type of hot melt glue do you use?
Just any low temp hot melt works
Great video.
But the vein gluing jig is utter garbage. I know - I have 2 of them. I use them to glue masses of arrows for total beginners and that is the only application suitable for those jigs.
I didn't want to buy the overpriced primer pen for my tac vanes, so i used purple pvc primer and they stick like cement!
I think you arrow fanatic guy like me ))
I started cutting my own arrows to save money on arrows, imo you don't have to pay $200 for a dozen, thats just too much. Imo anyway
Why are you glueing the collars and outserts? Unnecessary.