A suggestion, not a criticism. While you have the side cover off, it would be a good time to grease the clutch drum needle bearing. On Huskies, the hole on the end of the crankshaft is for greasing the bearing. You don't have to remove the clutch drum. Happy Holidays.
Obviously a great choice. The saw works an it’s ready to be put to work. If you had rebuild the OEM carb it wouldn’t be better or worse option just different with same result at the cost of precious time like you’ve mentioned. Good job.
Great show as always Mr. HG,👍 I dislike working on chainsaws as well. I have worked on enough of them and wasted countless hours that I assume the rings are automatically charred and stuck to the piston ring. If i dont get 130psi compression, minimum, and absent a carb problem, I go and attack the rings. Chainsaw motors are so finicky that getting it to fire on a few seconds means nothing and will only take you down a ,carb, false goose chase. I seriously now recommend all chainsaw customers to run 32:1 and replace the sparkplug twice a year and soak your muffler in fresh gas once a year for moderate to heavy users. I find that ,50:1 for chainsaws, which statistically rev higher and longer than weedwackers or blowers, and apply high torque to the pistons, is a recipe for disaster.
I have in the last couple of years, after trial-and-error, Realized that just replacing the whole carburetor it's more cost-effective than saving 3 or 4 bucks and rebuilding the old one. So I agree with your decision totally.
it's sometimes a tough lesson to learn, and even though I still try, I really wish I would just replace them. But if the rebuild works, it'll show the viewers that it can be done.
I think your decision making was appropriate on this one. A fresh carb gives fresh everything, old carb can be spares. I'd grab a couple carbs just in case you happen on one of these again but I've never liked that lean burn set up. The thing they're trying to stop (wet exhaust port, more burn on the fuel) gives me the heebie geebies. I would rather that spot stay wet if that makes sense. A good oil won't soot up if saw is running properly and you know all this already mate, I'm putting this out there for the newbies. You also reinforce looking after the gear quite firmly, I like that 🍻
I’ve got the same exact saw they work great for stuff up to 24 inches round then I pull out my big 455 for stuff up to 36 inches round I definitely agree with your decision to replace the carb after attempting to clean it why spend money if you don’t have to right
I've been working on one for the past two years that tell you anything 😆 Got it running but when I went to put the chain on a section got rusty what a pain ! I know wahhhh 😆😠 Hey thanks for all the videos have a Merry Christmas 🎄
I have a Husqvarna 4cycle weedeater, appx 7-8 years old. the last 3 years has been giving me starting problems but I just dealt with it. This year it didn't start without spraying some flammable stuff into the carb so I finally inspected it and found the primer bulb was split open. Once I saw that a new carb from Amazon was only $11... I bought that instead of just a primer bulb. Same reasons as you did. It started on the 2nd pull after replacing it. I also got a carb for my backpack weedeater but that didn't fix it.
I follow the same process, with keeping 2 or 3 styles of diaphragms (I also have a handful of various rebuild kits) on hand. If I come across one I don't have, I go the aftermarket carb route as well. Sometimes, you can get lucky and find an OEM for only $15-20 more, and in that case it might make sense to stay OEM. For the typical homeowner, aftermarket ones usually run and work just fine until they leave old stale gas in it again for a couple years. Then you're back in the same spot anyway.
That's a really good question. I try to stay with OEM where possible, but given the prices of everything lately I fully understand just going with an aftermarket. I've tried aftermarket and it's hit or miss.
Regarding changing pars vs rebuilding them... Years ago I spent 15€ plus shipping on a petcock repair kit (original), and I had to spend time taking it apart and putting it back together. A new original one was over 300€. Not that long after, it started leaking again. This time I spent more time online, and ended up buying an entire new petcock for a different model, it looked remarkably the same, so I took the plunge. I found it on fleabay, someone somewhere in Asia was selling it, and I ended up paying 10€ including shipping. It did fit, just like the original, lasted I don't know how many years, possibly still working, sold it over 4 years ago. Moral of the story: - repair kit + time + labour = expensive and didn't last. - cheap replacement with almost no time wasted to replace it = very cheap and long lasting.
I recommend cleaning the holes on the bar where the oil goes in, they can get plugged up overtime and then you have to take off the bar and clean the passages and the chainsaw will get the bar lubricated if it's not done the bar and chain will wear out
@@HomeGaragechannel I never thought this was possible until i noticed a bit of white smoke from the bar when i shut the saw and took the bar off i saw the passages being plugged with sawdust mixed oil 😅
Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do if you don’t have the right parts to fix the oem carb it’s definitely better just to get a new carb because it would’ve been a real headache to try and fix the oem carb at least now the saw is ready to cut I think you made the right decision I would have done the same thing if I didn’t have the right parts to fix it
For such a repair, I would order and use the carb kit. I tend to never replace a good OEM carb with the AF one, but last time I was working on some Husqvarna (440E, I think) I did replace the whole carb, because the owner tried to clean it by poking into it with something sharp, and he broke the one-way valve in the jet. I've never replaced a jet in the carb and don't even know how to buy a new jet. So I ordered a new AF carb.
I think you made the right choice for you. Personally I’m really skeptical of after market carbs so personally I would have rebuilt the OEM one or paid WAY too much and bought a new OEM carb.
I was working on a black max string trimmer and I cleaned the carb 3 times and it wouldn't rev up at all and kept dying I even tried to adjust the carb but it wouldn't start, I just ordered a new carb for it and hopefully it will work
did you check and make sure the gasket between the carb and engine was on the right? Also did you check the exhaust port and screen for carbon build up?
so I've considered doing that but I'm afraid that if the after market carb is "out of spec" from the OEM on, parts transfer would be hit or miss depending on the brand of off brand carb it was.
Hey bro what's up? Seasons Greetings to you and your family. I hope that you all have a wonderful and blessed holiday. In order to save time and frustration I would of definitely gotten a new carburetor also bro.
I’ve got one just like that. It was doing about the same thing. It had bad crank bearings. I got it in a package deal and it was missing several things, so I wasn’t beneficial to put any more effort into it if I had to buy all the parts to get it ready to use.
The age old dilemma. Given that I’ve only worked on ONE saw I’ll take your advice and just drop mine off at my local small engine show when the carb needs repair! 😂
I never had any success with those '2-barrel ' carbs that seem to be standard on the new saws in the home owner variety. The Stihl's I had were single barrels and hi/lo adjustments too. The 261 was my newest saw and it was fully adjustable and a single barrel so no problems. I think you did the right thing with a new carb. I got a new carb for the Poulan but no dice. And that Husky saw hadn't been run much and just light trimming at that with all the oil in the cover. If you cut heavy the chips will keep most of the oil out of there. And a lot of the saws have an adjustment for the amount of chain oil. Thanks and Blessings
Given the unusual carb parts, I'll bet the price of rebuild parts would be more than that replacement carb. I prefer to keep oem carbs, but sometimes, it just makes more sense to replace it with a cheap aftermarket.
Usually you might find plastic shreds from thr main seals/bearings in the spark arrestor. Annoying they have moved to plastic parts on the carburettor.
well from my view even if you give the original carburetor aka carby as we call them a good cleaning and a rebuilding with the proper kit first and it does not work well that,s when i would go to the next step and replace them as it often cures the problem in fuel delivery and control in that situation etc.
The only chainsaw I have ever owned is a cheap “my favorite tool store”, full electric (as in, you have to drag around a cord) that I use to cut branches and small saplings. Yeah, it sucks and I hate it but if it doesn’t start when I pull the trigger, I just need to check that my extension cord is still plugged in! I’ll get by with it and I have not plan and hopefully no need for anything else! I would be the person you hear about on the local news that dies trying to cut down a large tree in their backyard who didn’t know what they were doing and, when you hear about it, you think “idiot!”!
I would have got a diaphragm or a kit from the dealer if it were my saw. I try to support them as much as possible. I probably would have put the good diaphragm from the new carb in the oe one if l ordered a new carb. But being a consumer grade, not a pro saw, l wouldnt hesitate doing what you did either though.
@HomeGaragechannel I would put the new one on, get frustrated. Take the carb off a working chainsaw. Put that on starts no issue. That's how I started testing "after market carbs" which I hate. I would rather switch them all to walbros
those husky carbs are quite complex husqvarna decided they didn't want to go down the catalyst route to meet emission standards there is a special port in the block that sucks in just air from the 2nd port in the carb without fuel this creates an air cushion higher pressure in the muffler to stop raw fuel going out the exhaust while both ports are uncovered
That chain on that saw looks like it isn't sharp also. Some one needs to get the gullet. I'm just saying. By the way, Husqvarna stinks. STIHL RUNS THE YARD.😊👍🏿 #stihlpower #stihlisyourdaddy #stihlrunstheyard
A suggestion, not a criticism. While you have the side cover off, it would be a good time to grease the clutch drum needle bearing. On Huskies, the hole on the end of the crankshaft is for greasing the bearing. You don't have to remove the clutch drum.
Happy Holidays.
thank you and totally appreciate it
Obviously a great choice. The saw works an it’s ready to be put to work. If you had rebuild the OEM carb it wouldn’t be better or worse option just different with same result at the cost of precious time like you’ve mentioned. Good job.
thank you for understanding
Great show as always Mr. HG,👍
I dislike working on chainsaws as well. I have worked on enough of them and wasted countless hours that I assume the rings are automatically charred and stuck to the piston ring.
If i dont get 130psi compression, minimum, and absent a carb problem, I go and attack the rings.
Chainsaw motors are so finicky that getting it to fire on a few seconds means nothing and will only take you down a ,carb, false goose chase.
I seriously now recommend all chainsaw customers to run 32:1 and replace the sparkplug twice a year and soak your muffler in fresh gas once a year for moderate to heavy users.
I find that ,50:1 for chainsaws, which statistically rev higher and longer than weedwackers or blowers, and apply high torque to the pistons, is a recipe for disaster.
well described!
Yeah I run 40:1 in all my 2 cycle equipment it seems to last longer
Hello Home garage merry Christmas I hope you your feeling better I'm glad you fixed the problem
Happy holidays and thank you!
I rather repair the old carburetor. Great job🙏👍🙏👍
perfectly fine, thank you!
I have in the last couple of years, after trial-and-error,
Realized that just replacing the whole carburetor it's more cost-effective than saving 3 or 4 bucks and rebuilding the old one. So I agree with your decision totally.
it's sometimes a tough lesson to learn, and even though I still try, I really wish I would just replace them. But if the rebuild works, it'll show the viewers that it can be done.
I’m always a fan of rebuilds but if it’s a matter of making money as a business then you made the right choice
well said!
I think your decision making was appropriate on this one. A fresh carb gives fresh everything, old carb can be spares.
I'd grab a couple carbs just in case you happen on one of these again but I've never liked that lean burn set up. The thing they're trying to stop (wet exhaust port, more burn on the fuel) gives me the heebie geebies. I would rather that spot stay wet if that makes sense. A good oil won't soot up if saw is running properly and you know all this already mate, I'm putting this out there for the newbies.
You also reinforce looking after the gear quite firmly, I like that 🍻
I like the you described that.
I’ve got the same exact saw they work great for stuff up to 24 inches round then I pull out my big 455 for stuff up to 36 inches round I definitely agree with your decision to replace the carb after attempting to clean it why spend money if you don’t have to right
wow nice saws!
I've been working on one for the past two years that tell you anything 😆 Got it running but when I went to put the chain on a section got rusty what a pain ! I know wahhhh 😆😠 Hey thanks for all the videos have a Merry Christmas 🎄
Merry Christmas to you as well!
You made the best decision on the carb.
I would like to thank so
I have a Husqvarna 4cycle weedeater, appx 7-8 years old. the last 3 years has been giving me starting problems but I just dealt with it. This year it didn't start without spraying some flammable stuff into the carb so I finally inspected it and found the primer bulb was split open. Once I saw that a new carb from Amazon was only $11... I bought that instead of just a primer bulb. Same reasons as you did. It started on the 2nd pull after replacing it. I also got a carb for my backpack weedeater but that didn't fix it.
I think you made a great choice with the weedeater and sorry to hear that the blower didn't turn out better for you.
I follow the same process, with keeping 2 or 3 styles of diaphragms (I also have a handful of various rebuild kits) on hand. If I come across one I don't have, I go the aftermarket carb route as well. Sometimes, you can get lucky and find an OEM for only $15-20 more, and in that case it might make sense to stay OEM. For the typical homeowner, aftermarket ones usually run and work just fine until they leave old stale gas in it again for a couple years. Then you're back in the same spot anyway.
I couldn't have said it any better.
That's a really good question. I try to stay with OEM where possible, but given the prices of everything lately I fully understand just going with an aftermarket. I've tried aftermarket and it's hit or miss.
yes totally agree
Chain saws are aggravating to work on. There is a lot going on in a small package.
🎅👍
Yes they are
I don’t think you go overboard with cleaning, and I agree with you replacing the carb sometimes it’s necessary. Good video
thank you very much, I appreciate that.
Regarding changing pars vs rebuilding them...
Years ago I spent 15€ plus shipping on a petcock repair kit (original), and I had to spend time taking it apart and putting it back together. A new original one was over 300€.
Not that long after, it started leaking again.
This time I spent more time online, and ended up buying an entire new petcock for a different model, it looked remarkably the same, so I took the plunge. I found it on fleabay, someone somewhere in Asia was selling it, and I ended up paying 10€ including shipping. It did fit, just like the original, lasted I don't know how many years, possibly still working, sold it over 4 years ago.
Moral of the story:
- repair kit + time + labour = expensive and didn't last.
- cheap replacement with almost no time wasted to replace it = very cheap and long lasting.
I'm going to have to pin this comment!
@@HomeGaragechannel If you want to.
I recommend cleaning the holes on the bar where the oil goes in, they can get plugged up overtime and then you have to take off the bar and clean the passages and the chainsaw will get the bar lubricated if it's not done the bar and chain will wear out
yes I will have to make sure they're clean, thanks
@@HomeGaragechannel I never thought this was possible until i noticed a bit of white smoke from the bar when i shut the saw and took the bar off i saw the passages being plugged with sawdust mixed oil 😅
Sometimes we gotta do what we gotta do if you don’t have the right parts to fix the oem carb it’s definitely better just to get a new carb because it would’ve been a real headache to try and fix the oem carb at least now the saw is ready to cut I think you made the right decision I would have done the same thing if I didn’t have the right parts to fix it
thank you for seeing that way
For such a repair, I would order and use the carb kit. I tend to never replace a good OEM carb with the AF one, but last time I was working on some Husqvarna (440E, I think) I did replace the whole carb, because the owner tried to clean it by poking into it with something sharp, and he broke the one-way valve in the jet. I've never replaced a jet in the carb and don't even know how to buy a new jet. So I ordered a new AF carb.
nice, it seems you have a pretty good success rate rebuilding carbs with a rebuild kit. I wish my record was better.
Yes agree with the purchase, especially since an OEM rebuild kit may cost more than an aftermarket unit. Happy Holidays everyone.
thank you!
I think you made the right choice for you. Personally I’m really skeptical of after market carbs so personally I would have rebuilt the OEM one or paid WAY too much and bought a new OEM carb.
thank you!
I was working on a black max string trimmer and I cleaned the carb 3 times and it wouldn't rev up at all and kept dying I even tried to adjust the carb but it wouldn't start, I just ordered a new carb for it and hopefully it will work
did you check and make sure the gasket between the carb and engine was on the right? Also did you check the exhaust port and screen for carbon build up?
My choice is to buy aftermarket carb and strip the parts i need and reuse genuine carb again.
It works out cheaper on long run.
so I've considered doing that but I'm afraid that if the after market carb is "out of spec" from the OEM on, parts transfer would be hit or miss depending on the brand of off brand carb it was.
Hey bro what's up? Seasons Greetings to you and your family. I hope that you all have a wonderful and blessed holiday. In order to save time and frustration I would of definitely gotten a new carburetor also bro.
very good choice, and Seasons Greetings to you and your family as well.
@@HomeGaragechannel thanks bro👏👍
I’ve got one just like that. It was doing about the same thing. It had bad crank bearings. I got it in a package deal and it was missing several things, so I wasn’t beneficial to put any more effort into it if I had to buy all the parts to get it ready to use.
I think you made a good choice
The age old dilemma. Given that I’ve only worked on ONE saw I’ll take your advice and just drop mine off at my local small engine show when the carb needs repair! 😂
hey, I completely agree with you
I never had any success with those '2-barrel ' carbs that seem to be standard on the new saws in the home owner variety. The Stihl's I had were single barrels and hi/lo adjustments too. The 261 was my newest saw and it was fully adjustable and a single barrel so no problems. I think you did the right thing with a new carb. I got a new carb for the Poulan but no dice. And that Husky saw hadn't been run much and just light trimming at that with all the oil in the cover. If you cut heavy the chips will keep most of the oil out of there. And a lot of the saws have an adjustment for the amount of chain oil. Thanks and Blessings
thank you for sharing that. I prefer a single barrel myself.
I don't understand it/them but they're gone now. What a relief!@@HomeGaragechannel
Who cares you ordered a new carb. If that is what works then I say go for it. I love your channel
thank you and I agree
2008 model chainsaw.. seen some things
😆
yes It has
From what you said cost wise . I would have done the same thing
thanks!
@@HomeGaragechannel your welcome
New fuel filter and spark plug. Put a little sea foam in the fuel.
worth a shot.
Given the unusual carb parts, I'll bet the price of rebuild parts would be more than that replacement carb. I prefer to keep oem carbs, but sometimes, it just makes more sense to replace it with a cheap aftermarket.
totally agree with you
Usually you might find plastic shreds from thr main seals/bearings in the spark arrestor.
Annoying they have moved to plastic parts on the carburettor.
agreed
You made the right choice!!!
thank you!
What are you spraying on the chainsaw to clean it? Seems to work great.
I'm using Super Heavy Duty Degreaser from Harbor Freight
Time is money so replacement quicker! what is best way to store 2-stroke over winter like 4-6 months? thanks
agreed
Yeah I had to agree with you buy a new carburetor it's less screwing around with it and problem solved thank you for the video
it certainly makes it a lot easier for sure.
Yeah, they look great
yes they do
What cleaning solution and sprayer do you use?
both are from Harbor Freight, one is their yellow gallon jug of degreaser and the other is their Avanti paint sprayer
Good Choice!
thank you
What do you use for a degreaser?
the one from harbor freight
Time is money…good choice.
well said, and thank you
I had a 440 hus it was doing just that one the coil was going bad it showing spark as well. A new coil fix it.
nice work!
well from my view even if you give the original carburetor aka carby as we call them a good cleaning and a rebuilding with the proper kit first and it does not work well that,s when i would go to the next step and replace them as it often cures the problem in fuel delivery and control in that situation etc.
agreed
🤣🤣🤣 Calibrated taps
glad you got it
The only chainsaw I have ever owned is a cheap “my favorite tool store”, full electric (as in, you have to drag around a cord) that I use to cut branches and small saplings. Yeah, it sucks and I hate it but if it doesn’t start when I pull the trigger, I just need to check that my extension cord is still plugged in! I’ll get by with it and I have not plan and hopefully no need for anything else! I would be the person you hear about on the local news that dies trying to cut down a large tree in their backyard who didn’t know what they were doing and, when you hear about it, you think “idiot!”!
hey nothing wrong with a good chorded chainsaw
I would have got a diaphragm or a kit from the dealer if it were my saw. I try to support them as much as possible. I probably would have put the good diaphragm from the new carb in the oe one if l ordered a new carb. But being a consumer grade, not a pro saw, l wouldnt hesitate doing what you did either though.
ah, you make a great point
Eh after market carbs are more miss than hit for me. I order 10 i get 4 that work ...
wow that's some success rate
@HomeGaragechannel I would put the new one on, get frustrated. Take the carb off a working chainsaw. Put that on starts no issue. That's how I started testing "after market carbs" which I hate. I would rather switch them all to walbros
those husky carbs are quite complex husqvarna decided they didn't want to go down the catalyst route to meet emission standards there is a special port in the block that sucks in just air from the 2nd port in the carb without fuel this creates an air cushion higher pressure in the muffler to stop raw fuel going out the exhaust while both ports are uncovered
Thank you for explaining that
i got a pouland doing the same thing, im getting a new carb
good choice
You did what I would have done.
thanks!
Not sure if I have asked you this. Have you heard of CTS 🤔
I don't think you've mentioned it because it's not raining any bells.
What CTS are you referring to?
@@stevethiel5838 CarbTech-21.
I decided years ago that my time was worth more than the cost of a new carburetor.
I like the way you put that
It doesn't matter,if the kit only costs a few $$$'s less than the aftermarket carburettor then you may as well replace it !
agreed
I'd replace the carb also.
glad to hear it.
12:49
close to 13 hours.
order a new carb😂😂😂
very simple choice
I think the time it took you to clean it was a big waste because it doesn't make it run just saying
I'm going to have to agree with you.
It looks like a Jonsered
yes it does
If at first you don’t succeed,then replace the part.
agreed
That chain on that saw looks like it isn't sharp also. Some one needs to get the gullet. I'm just saying. By the way, Husqvarna stinks. STIHL RUNS THE YARD.😊👍🏿 #stihlpower #stihlisyourdaddy #stihlrunstheyard
yes you are correct, it needs a good sharpening
I don't think your going to far cleaning to work on it.
thank you