Tips to use THREADED INSERTS in wood
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Threaded inserts or nutserts are really handy if you're making furniture that needs to be taken apart at a later date. The threaded insert nut is screwed in to a pilot hole in the wood and can then be used with a machine screw to take the item apart as many times as you like. I'm also showing you a little woodworking hack for screwing these in to the wood without using a hex key or flat blade screwdriver.
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Here's the article to go with this vid: gosforthhandyman.com/2018/06/how-to-use-threaded-inserts/
Bit more information in there including which way 'round they should be installed. Enjoy! 👍
Gosforth Handyman Hi where can I purchase these from
This is greatly helpful! One more question, when I predrill should the hole be slightly smaller than the insert nut?
@@kcharm1310 no
Thanks, It's really helpful.
Your advice about using the impact driver with a screw and bolt to insert it was EXACTLY what i needed to finish my project. I'm glad i watched this video first before starting. Sometimes it's the small details that make a world of difference! Thanks again!
I knew what I needed but I couldn't think of what they were called!! Thanks so much!!!!!
I'm a big fan of threaded inserts. Great tip on using a screw & locknut to driver the insert in. Thanks
👍🛠👍
omg these are so cool! I never realised how easy they would be to do. I build all my furniture and always concerned about taking them apart, this is fantastic.
Absolutely brilliant tip with a bolt and nut thank you very much I should be using that in the near future
THANK YOU! I needed a way to tighten up a poorly designed garden bench. This will make all the difference!!
Thank you for a crisp, short explainer!
Thanks, your vid has brought me into the world of 21st century fixings for wood. (Had been using expensive anchor nuts)
I use a few hundred of these a month - the hex key type with a flange (Type D, the ones you used are type E with no flange/collar). I cut a straight bit off a hex key so that I could use a drill to drive them in and used a grinding wheel, with the bit in the drill, to create a rounded section at the end to sit inside the nut, so the whole thing becomes a mandrel. The nut sit nicely on the end while I introduce them to the hole and start drilling (screwing?).
Big thank you to you, man. That was an awesome video.
Wow what a great tip with the lock nut and impact driver. Blew my mind
It's a simple piece of hardware, but I didn't know how to use them even though I have some, so I'm glad you made a short video explaining it.
The moment I saw you use a lock nut I was like this man's a genius. That solved my problem, thanks.
That's funny. Came here to check out this as an idea. Looks like the fact setup and frame I went with
So last month I found out what a RivNut is - and now I've essentially found a woodworking alternative. Awesome tip there man!
Great tips and answered my question swiftly. Love it.
This is some of the most useful videos on TH-cam.
Thanks mate
Using the bolt is a top-tip, thanks.
What a great trick with the lock nut...I love your channel. Thanks.
Every video I’ve seen on slotted inserts, starts the debate on slot up versus slot down. 😂
Thanks for the content Andy.
Ha ha, yes. Some are design to go slot up, some are designed to go slot down. There are designed to go slot up. 👍😀
@@GosforthHandyman How do you tell the difference? They all look the same to me
All manufacturer's instructions I've seen indicate slot to be down and aids in clearing the debris when installed, the slot is not intended to be used for insertion via a screwdriver and will most likely strip out especially if brass. Have yet to see any designed for slot up.
@@duanemellott2347 yeah, I tried a screwdriver for the brass to do a 'quick little project' and I started turning it with not much pressure at all and it broke clean in half at the slot. Tried it on a few more to make sure it wasn't some defect in the material and not my ignorance to the situation.......There was no defect....
Fantastic explanations and demonstration!! I have learned so much from your video! Thank you!
Thank, I watched your video before buying some threaded inserts for the 1st time
Plain and simple thanks to you for this. It does help.
Cheers John! 👍🛠
Thanks for the tip bro, you're a hero !!!
Very informative. Have always been puzzled as to how you install these "screws." Thank you for sharing the method.
love these little guys - when putting them in with a locknut, i put 'em slot down, looks nicer IMO - thanks for all the vids!
@_ David _ you know he meant 'em but you just had to say "them" like a little bitch
@@rushipatel2282 ?
Nice tips with installing
Look at you rocking the vernier calipers!
Genius idea, thanks for the help!
Thanks Andy so much for sharing this 🙏
This is what i will be using for my desk, just waiting for wooden desk top
This is the first video i saw on your channel and i loved the simplicity of it and the tips you gave. People like you inspires me to make my own DIY channel. You gained one more subscriber. Keep up the good work
Five years later. Thanks for the info. That lock nut does the trick.
Thank you for the Video, made it look easy; will give it a try. Cheers.
Much prefer using these to T-nuts. The threaded inserts are a lot neater. Great tip with the installation again Andy.
Shades Workshop cheers Brendan! 👍 🛠
Also I'm thinking that T-nuts are mainly mounted to the opposite side so they pull in instead of out when you tighten the screw.
Thanks just about to fix wheels to my bench !
awesome video, I got some threaded inserts for mounting speakers into a custom bluetooth speaker box build with MDF. I actually had a selection of items to try, I wanted T-nuts in the right size, but none were easily found. However M6 slightly tapered insert nuts were available from my local hardware. They are Hex, and I would have never thought about using a locking nut on a M6 bolt with it, it will save the hex on the insert and keep it looking nice without risking mangling it up.
Extremely helpful!
Much appreciated!
Thanks Andy, this was very useful
Very Helpful Video.
Thank you!
Keep uploading such content. It's a Fantastic video. Explained Well.
Fortunately, I met someone, a Woodworking mentor, who changed my life.
Excellent work, Waiting for your next video.
Thank you so much! Making a table using salvaged legs with these fittings. I knew there was a trick with a nut but couldn't quite remember it!
Thanks for information
Very good idea! Thanks
👍🛠
I'm about to use them on malemin boards. Just what I needed it, awesome tip.
Thank you!
I'm also about to mount a 16mm Melamine board onto my new Advwin Standing Desk Frame Electric 'No Desktop' and I think this is an ideal way of attaching nuts to Melamine boards.
Whaou!!! It's very easy that way, Thank you very much, I liked this video and also suscribed
Great, thankyou!
Thanks man!
Good tip Andy👍👍👍👍👍👍
👍👍
Great video, sir!
Great & well executed tutorial! Cheers 🥂 mate
very helpful
I've got the inserts with the screwdriver slot and screwing them in has never been a problem. However, I liked your idea of the screw and locknut alternative.
Thanks Andy, a really informative video. Will surely try these inserts
Keep the vidoes coming
Cheers Ravi! 👍🛠
Thanks Andy! I just bought some with no dims. You helped me!
Super helpful, thanks!
Thank you this was very helpful
Thanks Andy. Another great tip 👍
Cheers Gary - happy Saturday! 👍😀
the lock nut is a great idea
Had to find Englishman to give simple and clear advice
Impact driver! why didn't that cross my mind earlier! Like all the best tips, this one was nice and simple :) Thanks mate.
Thank you
You saved my life 👍
Thanks that's really helpful
If you are using as washer under the nut the insert will be flush with the surface and if you clip of the hex part of the screw and put ist direkt in the machine you get much more control.
smart
Like this idea
I knew about cutting the hex off and basically using the screw part like a drill bit (I have that ready to go, already) but not the washer to make the insert flush with the surface. Thanks.
i feel dumb. i would usually install these like in the video minus the nut. you're a good man
I need to install a few of these into hardwood, so I bought the stainless version, along with the mandrel and a couple new drill bits of the correct size. Tried the first one, but it gave me trouble, and the mandrel slipped off just before the insert was all the way in. I was thinking maybe this job needed wax or other lubricant, but apparently I just need to be more careful. Thanks for the video, I'll give it another go.
I'm just trying to fix a pair of dining table chairs, idk anything about wood working I'm starting to look into it
Now that I know what those metal things are called
My anxiety has lowered now lol off to Home depot thanks for the upload
I never gave wood working a chance but its hella interesting but calming.
Has a past life type feel idk
Peace
Thank you Mate!
brilliant. thanks mate
This is exactly what I need to be able to repeatably remove my solar screens to clean my windows. Why the heck don't solar screen installers do this in the first place? I knew what I needed, but didn't know what they were called. Thank You!
Thanks
Thanks, It was usefull !
Good tip
Cheers Kyle! 👍
So that's what their called! I got a high end cosplay costume I'm making where everything has to be modulated so It can come apart when needed for repairs or to store away. Bolting in the plastic & resin overtime means the holes will wear out too quickly.
Thank you verry helpful
This is exactly what I need for my Cobalt flux pad. You need to unscrew the panels from time to time to clean it. And now there's no wood gripping the screws anymore.
Yea you got it right!! The slots are not for a screw driver install. They are there to help cut the thread, Most people install these incorrectly.
Billy Smether Cheers Billy! The slots on these are for screwdriver install - you get hex drive or slot drive in this range. There are other types though e.g. for in plastic where the slot goes to the bottom. 👍
Up or down. Either or both. Since a screwdriver is not used to install the insert in this video it makes no difference whether the slot is up or down. The reference to Shop4Fasteners makes no reference to up or down. One manufacturer of inserts, EZLOK, sells a driver (search "ez lok insert tool”) that engages the slots for installation. In this case the slots would, of course, be up. However, their very own instructions indicate that it is possible to use the method in this video with machine screw and nut, and in such a case the slots should point down (search "ezlok insert instructions” and then look for wood.) Additionally, if the slot functions as a thread cutter in metal (as the Shop4Fasteners reference indicates), it will do so in wood. If a screwdriver is not being used, slot down is perfectly acceptable.
Would've been nice to see whether they should be glued into end grain and with what glue.
Some say this method is how you're supposed to install these because the slotted side is there for cutting the thread not install/remove. You can remove the insert with lock nuts.
Check around to confirm but I’ve been taught that the slotted side is the “cutting” side for self-tapping properties and should be inserted into the wood. Helpful video in that the way to install a wood insert is by using a screw or threaded rod with a lock nut however, this one was installed upside down! 😯
Would you recomend the use of these inserts in MDF boards? Thanks in advance.
That slot on the one end is part of the cutting edge. It goes into the wood first.
Mark Harding not on these ones - read the article (top post) 👍
Up or down. Either or both. Since a screwdriver is not used to install the insert in this video it makes no difference whether the slot is up or down. The reference to Shop4Fasteners makes no reference to up or down. One manufacturer of inserts, EZLOK, sells a driver (search "ez lok insert tool”) that engages the slots for installation. In this case the slots would, of course, be up. However, their very own instructions indicate that it is possible to use the method in this video with machine screw and nut, and in such a case the slots should point down (search "ezlok insert instructions” and then look for wood.) Additionally, if the slot functions as a thread cutter in metal (as the Shop4Fasteners reference indicates), it will do so in wood. If a screwdriver is not being used, slot down is perfectly acceptable.
thanks you thank you
I use them on walls with resin fixing. If you insert them with a bolt in place the thread stays clear. Put a bit of grease on the bolt to stop the resin sticking to it.
Awesome bro! Killer accent buddy
This seems to be a great solution for my problem. Since a year or so I use T-nuts but I always have problems with them.
No matter what I do, they just are not enough tight fit for not coming loose, sooner or later.
I read the other comments. No glue/adhesive necessary! Seems really idiot-proof. I'll give it a try next week.
Thanks for sharing.
No worries! 👍🛠
Unbelievable! I found them today in a local hardware shop.
But (in my eyes) terribly expensive 0,40 € (0,32 GBP) per one piece!
So I only bought ten. Need to find a cheaper source!
T-nuts are designed to be inserted in the far end of the wood that you are attaching to.
@@xsietube Can you please explain what you mean with that? I don't understand what you wrote.
With a T-nut, the hole needs to go through the piece you are attaching to. The t-nut is placed on the far end of that piece so that when you screw the item in from the other end, it creates clamping tension, pulling the t-nut into the wood. Think of it like a regular nut and bolt. The bolt is placed through the workpiece(s) and the nut attached on the opposite side... just this time the nut gets embedded into the wood.
If you were to use t-nuts in the table in this video, the hole would be drilled straight through, t-nuts would be installed in the face of the table and the legs would screw in from below. Unfortunately that means the fastener would be visible on the tabletop, so they’re not often used in this specific application.
Hope that makes more sense!
Could you use this with hanger bolts to create removable legs on a fairly heavy table?
The depth the screw will go, the thread count on the screw, and the width of the screw all matter.
For the toughest applications, you want it as deep and wide as possible, and I believe the more threads the better. To do rough checks on your sizes, you can use some basic statics equations to find the "moment" exerted on the bolt (in the worst case) and look up your bolt and see if it can withstand that torque. Or skip the middle man and use bolts big enough that you don't have to worry
@@leprechaunne Thx mate
@@Horizon344 no problem, sorry I know it's a bit late, but good to know for posterity
@@leprechaunne I was about to say this
the big trick is to make it really coaxial with the corresponding bolt
Genius!
Hello sir, I would like to show us how to get it out when it will be very difficult on a metal, I found a lot of problem when treated is screwed up inside the metal. thank you so much
I need to attach 29" legs (CAROLINA LEG CO. Chunky Farmhouse Table Legs - Unfinished - DIY Furniture - Turned Legs - Set of 4 - Dimensions: 3.5" x 29" ) to a round table and plan to use Mounting Plates Set 5/16" Furniture Leg Attachment Plates Industrial Strength T-Plate with Hanger Bolts Screws. The set has 4 inserts described in this film. Do you put insert into the leg or into the table? Or it is better to buy extra inserts and put them into both? Thank you for the informative film.
Hahahaha, there's one in every crowd, that one shitty little piece of sawdust had to place itself in the slotted groove...😂
Nice tip mate, that's got to save some headaches 👍
😂👍
How do you determine the thread size to use? Example: Attach something to a 2cm width what size insert should I use. Thanks.
I am purchasing them online and i have no way of measuring them,
I just know the insert i am buying is classed as M10
I take it that is 10mm, which is clear so far.
But what is 10mm here exactly?
The type of bolt it accepts after i put the insert in place?
The diameter of the hole i should drill to screw in the insert into? in that case, what bolt diameter should i use for an M10 insert?
is it the diameter of the insert WITH the threads? (which means i need to drill a hole smaller than 10mm??)
Please help, i am lost
The bolt to use would also be called an M10
Thank you. Very useful. I have a threaded nut in my dinning room chair base which allows me to screw in wheels. The inner thread has gone and the wheel comes off. I have tried to freshen up the thread inside but it's now worn out. I think I need to removed the threaded nut. Can you advise how to be do this and replace with a new one? Thank you!
Has anyone used threaded inserts or had luck using them in MDF? If so, which works best, the brass fine threaded ones or the course steel threaded ones?
I have the opposite problem.. How do I remove them (original hardware) from existing wood frame?
How do you decide what diameter of nuts should be used? I'm plan to put together a table top and an underframe but don't know what thickness and length would hold strongly