Thanks for answering all my questions! I really appreciate it. Can you tell me the length of the 4 inch cantilever beams? Also, What's the distance between the deck to cantilever beam mounting points?
Hi We are looking to upgrade from our 37 ft aluminum Catamaran to a leopard 48. Your videos have been great for seeing the details of the 48 Great job. How much watts did you end up with?
365W each x 4 panels. We thought about adding more but so far we can't even use up the energy we are creating! Combined with the lithium 900W batteries....
Thanks so much! This is helping me big time as I design a rack for my Leopard 40. Hoping for 4 panels. Anything you would have done differently? Thanks again! Cheers, Ted
Is Bill a local contractor? I like the aluminum vs SS and not having a support beam coming down each side. But I would like to get someone to build and install the structure.
Just out of curiosity, why did you mount the solar panels so far forward instead of going with an arch and bringing them farther aft of the coach roof? Seems the panels could have then been used for more shade or to protect the dinghy from the sun/rain.
We chose to cantilever the panels off the aft of the coach roof to eliminate any need for structure coming from below the coach roof with connections on the deck, the sugar scoops or the roof post. This way everything is above the roof. As such, the amount of cantilever off the back is limited to reduce flexing of the roof with overweight off the end. I agree we could have obtained more shade and protection for the dinghy. But this mount is very clean, very sturdy and keeps less clutter in our view aft from the cockpit.
@@SailingPILAR you filled the holes in the solar panel with epoxy? I thin you're talking about the mounting holes in the deck. I was talking about the panels. Your list of materials shows 3X6 c channel for both. But you mentioned 4 inch channel for the cantilever beams and 3 inch for the crossbeams. Can you confirm?
Thanks for putting together all the parts you used - very useful. Are the bolts/fasteners coated? I think they are listed as 316 stainless. Won't this react with the aluminum?
Good observation. Yes we used 316SS. but we also used phenolic washers between all the stainless and aluminum bolt and nut connections. Zinc coated will eventually rust and put stains on the deck. A point to note is we did experience galling on the stainless bolts and nylon lock nuts which we later learned is common. Some galled as we tightened the nuts on those 98 degree days and we had to cut them off. Once we learned the problem a little grease lube on the bolt remedied the galling.
Thanks for answering all my questions! I really appreciate it.
Can you tell me the length of the 4 inch cantilever beams?
Also, What's the distance between the deck to cantilever beam mounting points?
Hi
We are looking to upgrade from our 37 ft aluminum Catamaran to a leopard 48.
Your videos have been great for seeing the details of the 48
Great job.
How much watts did you end up with?
365W each x 4 panels. We thought about adding more but so far we can't even use up the energy we are creating! Combined with the lithium 900W batteries....
Thanks so much! This is helping me big time as I design a rack for my Leopard 40. Hoping for 4 panels.
Anything you would have done differently?
Thanks again!
Cheers,
Ted
nothing different! we are super happy with our install.
How did it go ? I'd like to add to leopard 40 too
@@roberts8783 went well. I went with 3 panels but should have done 4. Are you in the 40 group on FB?
@tedboender I'm not as they require a hull number etc and I've only just put an offer on one
Is Bill a local contractor? I like the aluminum vs SS and not having a support beam coming down each side. But I would like to get someone to build and install the structure.
Sorry. Bill is a dear friend. And his rates would be much much higher than any boatyard.
Just out of curiosity, why did you mount the solar panels so far forward instead of going with an arch and bringing them farther aft of the coach roof? Seems the panels could have then been used for more shade or to protect the dinghy from the sun/rain.
We chose to cantilever the panels off the aft of the coach roof to eliminate any need for structure coming from below the coach roof with connections on the deck, the sugar scoops or the roof post. This way everything is above the roof. As such, the amount of cantilever off the back is limited to reduce flexing of the roof with overweight off the end. I agree we could have obtained more shade and protection for the dinghy. But this mount is very clean, very sturdy and keeps less clutter in our view aft from the cockpit.
@@captainstephen Hadn't thought of the visual obstruction while docking... Makes for a good point.
10 AWG wire to the controllers?
Did you just use one L Bracket where the cantilever beam connects to the crossbeam?
Yes. One L bracket
Yes 10 awg wire.
Did you use the existing mounting holes on the panels? or drill new ones?
New ones. We drilled larger ones. then filled with epoxy. Then drilled the right size.
@@SailingPILAR you filled the holes in the solar panel with epoxy? I thin you're talking about the mounting holes in the deck. I was talking about the panels.
Your list of materials shows 3X6 c channel for both. But you mentioned 4 inch channel for the cantilever beams and 3 inch for the crossbeams. Can you confirm?
@@tedboender we used only existing holes on the panels.
And yes those measurements are correct
What brand are the panels?
LG. You can see all the details on our blog post.
bluedotvoyages.com/lithium-batteries-solar-panels-upgrade-leopard48/
Thanks for putting together all the parts you used - very useful. Are the bolts/fasteners coated? I think they are listed as 316 stainless. Won't this react with the aluminum?
Good observation. Yes we used 316SS. but we also used phenolic washers between all the stainless and aluminum bolt and nut connections. Zinc coated will eventually rust and put stains on the deck. A point to note is we did experience galling on the stainless bolts and nylon lock nuts which we later learned is common. Some galled as we tightened the nuts on those 98 degree days and we had to cut them off. Once we learned the problem a little grease lube on the bolt remedied the galling.
@@captainstephen Cool - thanks for the info!