How to Stop Damp Penetrating Brickwork
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Waterproof your brick walls with Stormdry, a colourless, breathable, water-repellent treatment for brick, concrete and stone walls. It's a deep penetrating cream that is applied to the wall surface using a roller or brush. Once Stormdry has been applied to the wall surface in a single coat and will permeate deeply before curing to form a water-repellent barrier for a BBA approved 25 years.
Typical applications for Stormdry include:
Protecting against penetrating damp (rain penetration)
Improving the thermal resistance of masonry by keeping it dry - verified by the Energy Saving Trust
Improving the performance of cavity wall insulation by protecting it from moisture
Improving flood resistance of masonry
Breathable and Long Lasting
Stormdry is based on carefully selected silanes and siloxanes which line the pores of the masonry to form a water-repellent silicone matrix. Because it works by lining the pores rather than blocking them the masonry is allowed to breathe and does not suffer from increased frost damage (spalling). Due to its novel formulation and deep penetration, Stormdry is resistant to UV light and other forms of degradation, resulting in a life expectancy of 20 - 30 years.
Deeply Penetrating
Stormdry is able to penetrate more deeply into masonry than traditional liquid-applied masonry water repellents. As well as increasing life expectancy this also improves Stormdry’s crack-bridging ability. As the diagram to the right shows, Stormdry is able to provide water-repellency beyond the depth of small cracks.
It should be noted that larger cracks will still need to be filled as part of the Stormdry treatment. Mortar lines may need to be repointed with a sand/cement or sand/lime mix incorporating Stormdry Repointing Additive.
Effective
Stormdry has been tested to BS EN ISO 15148:2002 (E), demonstrating its effectiveness on concrete, mortar, brick, and sandstone. The graph below shows that the water uptake for Stormdry treated samples was considerably lower than for untreated samples:
As Stormdry is formulated to penetrate deeply into masonry it can take up to two months after application for a noticeable “beading effect” to appear when rainfall strikes the wall. However, Stormdry is resistant to rain after just 12 hours.
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I used a similar product on a Victorian house more than 20 years ago and the problem is still solved. Amazing stuff. It also stopped the brick surface weathering. I just wish more people understood how good it is and stopped wasting so much money on avoidable scaffolding and brickwork or ineffective internal replastering.
Hi what was the product you used please.
i have worked with with these products for 7 years now.. its actually what they class as nano technology. Once applied onto brickwork or stonework the nano particles sink into the substrate and provide a protective barrier.. aswell as not allowing water to penetrate it also provides thermal efficiency, brethability and also is self cleaning due to the moisture repelling properties in the product. Awesome product.
Just used some on part of my wall on a similar property. I have quite a few spalled bricks so hoping it will give them a bit more protection.
My brick house is 75 years old and there's no insulation, just cinderblock behind them, and plaster walls. Will this product help keep the damp out? One commenter said this traps moisture if there's no vapor barrier. Do you know, Capt. Sparrow? Thanks.
77⁷
What’s the American version of this? All my rentals are over 100 year old brick row homes
About six years ago I had water coming in round two windows. I replaced several bricks that were spalled, did some re pointing and sealed round the windows with CT1. Still the water was getting in so I did some research and found Stormdry. It is very expensive, I think it cost me around £300 to do the whole side of my house. I did it myself in a few hours and really pleased to say it does work. I would definitely recommend it.
Is it breathable?
Any issues with the condensation or damp?
@@Ajklens It is vapour permeable and will not lock in moisture. It lines the capillaries to stop the mortar soaking the water. The water flows out much better because it doesn't clog.
@@SkillBuilder Is this true if our walls have no vapor barrier? Our brick house is brick and cinderblock, with plaster walls and no cavity. The dampness is real! 😞
@@SheenaRea same here🤔
Please answer my question can you plaster the exterior after using this product @SkillBuilder
Have used this product i had cavity wall insulation which had broken down allowing penetrating damp instead of spending 6k to have it removed I used this product, it worked brilliantly if you throw water at the wall it beads off and does not penetrate although it is expensive £120 for 5 L but it is BBA approved and is warranted to last at least 25 years good vid as always Roger
I have a 150 year old cottage built from Norfolk reds, I have many problems with penetrating damp. This is absolutely fantastic, thanks Rodge, always watching this Chanel for the best tips and tricks. Keep up the good work!
This is the perfect product for those old red rubbers
Interesting product, could be useful in some situations, especially in money saving situations. The real crux here seems to be that this grade 2 building was clearly originally lime pointed, you can see it in the b roll shot and at the front where the pointing has failed, has been pointed with cement. Get that off, repoint with lime and the failure of the bricks will be greatly reduced, moisture escaping that wall will be using the bricks causing deterioration as the cement is to impervious.
Yeah, thought that myself, looks like almost pure cement pointing
@Gazr Gazr im doing a lime mortar pointing job in may off scaffold, the client wants it done in cement and sand for cheaper and in a week ...ive given him the bad news ..a big fat no and no
I’ve also read that stormdry May slightly waterproof the wall from the outside for a time, but it stops the wall breathing and allowing it to release moisture from within. This usually can cause more damp problems?
Does anyone support that statement? And should it be avoided on old buildings?
@@AmateurCaptain I'd like to know this too.
Yes, you are right about cement on old buildings, but there is just so much unawareness about the importance of not using any cement products on older buildings. Linseed oil paint on wood is also forgotten about and as you probably know was used on all outdoor wood in the past and is the reason why we still see 200-300 year old window frames still in use, being soaked as they were in boiled linseed oil when they were new (the molecules of the oil are smaller than water and stop water penetration). The thing that people generally don`t understand is that the moisture on the inside of the house needs to get out through the lime mortar between the bricks. I´d say people need to educate themselves about their old (and expensively repaired) buildings, but before that can happen the building trade needs a re-education on materials used, especially lime and linseed oil. Maybe in the future, eh?😏
I've had a problem of water penetrating the roof space. The builder decided after doing everything that the bricks were porous on our 1820 chimney. Rain was soaking into the bricks and exiting in the roof where a wooden beam touched it. Stormdry24 absolutely solved the issue 100% ... It really is amazing stuff. It's meant to last 25 years with one coat. I gave it two anyway as I might as well use up the 3 litre tub. It's expensive at £80 , but as the builders and scaffolding costing me £1300 its dead cheap.
Ps yes I too noticed the cement pointing rather than lime mortar on the video. Who the heck does that!
Fantastic videos you post here, I watch every one. I only wish I could find builders as good as you lot. My last builders were so crap I had to undo what they did and ended up doing it myself, with help from TH-cam videos like this. One guy invoiced me £5000 for some steels which I found out cost him £500!!! Beware of builder's trying to rip you off! Or like me never trust anyone again and do it yourself.
I have used silicone based liquid to waterproof brickwork on chimneys, roof tiles and below dpc. There are 2 types: water and spirit based. The water based was a pain to get on as you had to work to get the brick 'wetted'. The spirit based went in like blotting paper so I always use that. Your product looks very interesting
Just spray on with a spray Bottle works every time
Roger.....you have the patience of a Saint! I cannot believe some of the attitude on display here!
Nearly everyone who comments says the same thing. "The walls can't breathe" . All the independent test by laboratories all over the world have found that this product has a high level of vapour permeability. It cannot trap moisture but it stops moisture entering the wall so the net result is a much drier wall. I have had so many people contacting Skill Builder to say that they used it after seeing the video and it solved their damp problem in a matter of a few days. So the difference is between those who have never used it but seem to know all about it and those who have used it and know one thing.
Good old boy,it’s good to see a practical professional.x
Where can I purchase Storm Dry?
Keep up the good work Roger, there is no end to how much people can add to their skill and knowledge base, and lets face it, its in short supply at times. Builders need to be encouraged to engage their brains more as well, is the greatest gift we've all been given as well as working on fair levels of disclosure.
Such a great tip on the moisture creating an electrical issue. Thank you.
Can't speak highly enough about storm dry. It still allowed my lovely old stone home to breath but kept the water out.
Great video thanks, in the UK moisture and damp id a major issue, every house uve been in there have been some small damp problems, so i really eant to increase my knowledge on damp, so please upload as many damp educational videos as posible. Cheers
Well I never!!
I would never have found that fault!! Genius 👍😊
Great video Roger as always however just seen the price of this stuff..... £120 for 5 litres, nearly fainted!
Or you could use a couple of coats of Thompson‘s water seal probably just as good for a fraction of the price.
@@andrewhinton7015 is that a mixture of pva like most of the others?
@@andrewhinton7015 water used to flood into my garage so as i use it for storage we built a low brick wall across the door water still got so bought 5 liters water seeler
from wicks no more water came in that was at least 5 yrs ago
Cheapest in the long run
Nice one Roger , I could do with this stuff for our new build single skin garage ready for the autumn . I will give it a try 🧱🧱👌🏼👍🏼
Did you try it? Got a similar problem with single skin garage
I’d be inclined to rake out that cement mortar repoint job and put lime back.
It will be done but this will hold that damp out and hopefully stall the spall.
Skill Builder great work roger , love the channel.
@@SkillBuilder No it won't, not at all. Strong mortar increase the liklihood of spalling and the damp isn't coming from the outside, its coming from the inside.
@@corindoyle You know so much and yet you have never been there, that is an incredible skill. You should consider doing surveys from the comfort of your armchair. You are very welcome to visit the property and see it so you can give a more informed and considered opinion based upon facts rather than guess work.
@@SkillBuilder kind sir if you dont mind giving more info pls. do i point it with lime mortar AFTER i have apply a cote of this product? also i pointed garden wall with sement and sand, was tha a bad idea? thanks
Fantastic! I've been fighting damp in my Victorian house and have been losing! Will be trying this!! Thank for the video!!
I’ve discovered that the damp we talked about, is a rain ingress issue, ear to the wall, you can hear heavy dripping in the cavity. Have zero clue how. Have done 7 jobs so far, ridge
tiles, new felt, silicon,
sandtex, not made any difference, rain causes the constant dripping noise. At a total loss. Going to try to a tarpaulin experiment, covering each
area of the roof, gutters, old kitchen chimney. If that doesn’t id the source, I’m knocking the house down and buying a tent😭😭❤️
should have been repointed in lime soft red bricks and had waterproof cement doesn't work. Soft red bricks absorb water if pointed with lime as some of the originals on the wall seem to be higher up the water absorbed by the soft red bricks evaporates through the lime mortar (the original mortar) the lime mortar may well need repainting at some stage the problems occur when it is repointed with 'waterproof' hard cement. In the winter when the bricks get wet the cement mortar largely stops the moisture escaping and in freezing temperatures the water freezes blowing the faces (spalling) off some of the bricks. The cement mortar can also develop small cracks which draw water into the wall by capillary action. That wall has been repointed with the wrong material. You can see it sometimes on old walls on bridges in the countryside over small rivers where they have been repointed with cement instead of lime over years the faces of the bricks spell and crack much worse than they would otherwise and recede to the point where only the cement mortar remains outstanding, clearly making the point as this does not happen to anywhere near the same
extent with lime mortar. Lime mortar allows the evaporation of moisture from the wall and so results in massively fewer spelled or damaged bricks. The mortar itself is soft ish and allows for movement too but may need to be redone over time but saves the majority of the faces of the bricks. It's easy enough to research. Stops any damp problems on the inside then too.
Michael
I think most people can see that the pointing is an issue but the fact that soft reds soak up water is exactly the point. Keeping the water out is a good start. The pointing will then have less water to release. It is also a fact that the water can evaporate from the reds.
This is true and I wish more people realised the damage cement does to old brick. A lot of damp problems are caused by applying modern products to buildings that have been fine for a century or more. I repointed my house with lime and it solved the damp issues. I had to do it myself because most builders don't understand what proper lime mortar is.
I coated the wall with Thomson water seal. It's clear and easy to apply. Worked very well.
Be careful with thompsons on an older property as it doen't allow the wall to breathe.
Yes. The house was a 100 years old and the wall had been injected with a new damp course. But the wall remained damp according to surveyors. So I Thompson'd it during a dry spell. Interior had plaster and wall paper the exterior bricks had become porous. Few weeks later new survey and it passed with flying colours.
@@howardbowen-RC-Pilot let us know if it suffers raising damp in the next few years, I don't think Thomson water seal is breathable so it will affect how the bricks dry out. Hopefully you'll be ok, but I wouldn't recommend it especially as you can get breathable alternatives.
@@howardbowen-RC-Pilot how was the bricks? I’ve got similar age house and damp course done, but the bricks are weathered in areas (faces mot great some small holes etc). Was your bricks similar as it seemed to work for you?
How did Thompsons Water Seal work out for you?
Just ordered some off the back of this video. Bit of a scary price but i trust your reccomendation!
Gringo Tom
It is expensive but it does work. Everyone who uses it says the same thing.
@@SkillBuilder is agree totally, please see my reviews above. I spent hundreds on this but if it last 25 years it's cheap as chips
I have missing render ans water has been making the wall wet, and my inside wall. Should i put this on before the render? Or can i get away without the rendering. Im being quoted prices i cant afford, so have to be a big girl and do it myself.
Very good, I have a brick built bungalow and the course below the DPC are not engineering bricks and seem to absorb water. The walls are cavity with a injected cavity wall insulation the damp is visible above the DPC and know what brickies are like the will be a lot of mortar down at the base of the cavity which gets damp and transmits the damp through to the inner leaf of thermal blocks. This video has just introduced a fix from sorting out the problem before it becomes a larger issue.
I had same issue, bridging,,cut brick's out there was some rubble in cavity which on that 1937 house was only 40/50 mm.
I injected cream DPC seemed to solve. Now in a 1958 house needs full repointing.
The biggest problem you've got there is cement pointing over lime mortar. It's a big no no as lime mortar needs to breathe and the cement won't let it. It's generally the main cause of damp in older houses well that and blocked drainpipes
Thanks, quite a few people have said that and the pointing will be fixed but this is a general video about using Stormdry.
I totally agree I would carefully removed the cement and replaced with a hydraulic Lime mortar. It was a poor example using this product on a grade 2 listed building also their is a contradiction with waterproof and breathable.
Listed buildings need Lime mortar pointing to breathe,cement pointing won’t let it breathe and cause damp that is the problem
One other issue is that the inside of the wall has been painted with modern emulsion. Limewash would allow the wall to breathe from the inside out. The emulsion has most likely sealed the inside allowing the damp to work in from the outside. I am assuming that modern plaster has not been applied to the wall beforehand. Lime plaster allows the wall to breathe.
No the inside should be sealed on single skin brick walls so that water vapour from the hot air inside cannot penetrate and condense inside the wall. This will cause a damp wet wall in winter and mould etc. It needs to breathable on the outside.
Thank you Roger ... We've moved to the UK from Western Canada and I have a big learning curve. In learning about our brick home!
You are a man I can trust , I get that feeling from the few videos I've watched already.
Many thanks.
Rob Stapleton
Best to wait for a few hot dry days before applying this stuff so that you don't lock in any moisture. Give time for the bricks to properly dry out, then apply the coating.
It won't lock in the moisture. That can happen with Thompsons but not siloxane.
Damp issues are a really complicated thing and I guarantee you, you’ll get a load of grief from the ‘Peter ward’ brigade, but, I know one thing, as much as he’s right in many ways, he also talks a load of bollox on others. Your option may well be a great way to deal with the issue and I can see your thoughts, absolutely. Something I noticed on that area was there are a few blown bricks and cement pointing. The cement pointing stops the bricks and joints from breathing so moisture is kept in the brick, when it freezes the brick blows out. A possibility may have been to point it in lime to allow the brick to breathe though I think maybe it wouldn’t have been any more affective than what you did. If it was my house there is no question I’d have done what you did. Thinking out loud mate 👍🏻
I am not the slightest bit worried about the disciple of Ward. There is a lot to consider here about soft rubbers and lime but the Stormdry will not harm the structure in any way and it works. We will be replacing the spalled bricks and doing a bit of repointing with lime mortar when the lockdown is over. This video is about a masonry treatment that has wide ranging benefits on a variety of brick structures, particularly exposed gable ends of 9 inch brickwork.
Often builders will recommend waterproof render which then cracks and allows water in. I have seen it many times.
@@SkillBuilder Skill Builder exposed gable ends with 9" brickwork would definitely benefit from this product as long as it's breathable, or any brickwork that's exposed to extreme dampness or lack of sunlight. Rendering has it's benefits but you're right, when it cracks (which is impossible to predict) it creates a whole load of issues. A properly pointed surface with a product like this seems beneficial. Cheers
Such a great channel! Always so informative and helpful. I was wondering, what is the best way to clean the bricks prior to application?
This builder is amazing so much knowledge respect to him 👏
All your videos that I watched so far have been very informative and helpful. Thank you
While I think the product technically works I have seen instances where this or similar products have been applied to buildings where proper diagnosis has not been carried out. Sealing brickwork is not a panacea for preventing damp. Mend leaking gutter is often all you havevto do. So please, if you have a listed building learn to live with its vulerabilities, keep it warm and don't slap stuff on until you know that the principle is correct. If water gets in but can't get out the situation could worsen.
Love your vids Rodger, im about to get my 1850s house repointed, nightmare for cost!
If used correctly this is a fantastic product, especially regarding penetrating damp issues on cavity walls :)
i don't agree with the claim that is stops rain penetrating yet still allows the wall to breath, no product on earth does that, not human skin nor gortex, nothing
@hopclang9409 How do you find human skin performs as a building ma....... WHAT ???
who, I mean, what? & it breathes !
Watch Goldfinger for fiction based proof of this otherwise reasonably well known fact.
Hi roger.. great tip!
Can you paint on top of this stuff?
Excellent product for chimneys. We use it all the time, well worth the money.
I have used it on chimneys and it seems to be a lot better than the Thompson's silicone which drives out after a few years.
I have a damp chimney in the loft over the dpc tray, the bricks and mortar are wet above the dpc tray in the loft. Do you think the stack above the roofline is soaking the rain in then falling down to the dpc tray before wicking back out in the loft?
I would guess the modern cement pointing over lime mortar hasnt helped the wall over the years neither.
I think you are right. There is work to be done there. Some of that wall is original and some is extension.
I know it’s a very late answer but still:
Cement mortar is no good with old bricks. The cement is stronger than the old bricks which causes the water to go through the brick rather than the pointing. If it freezes, the brick slowly bursts and dissolves. The ideal mixture for the mortar is lime based without any cement at all. E.g. lime putty,...
cheers from a German specialist for historical buildings. :)
I watched your video very useful. I am try to search for all your video lesson. Thank you so much!
Good vid and advice
What would you recommend to seal internal brickwork to stop dust
I sprayed some Ronseal Thompsons Water Seal for my house 5 years back. Those last for a couple of years and its effectiveness seems to reduce over time. from full water repellant to semi repellant but still much better than nothing on which bricks get wet/soaks.
Yes Thompson's does get driven out by rain. The siloxane is a glass like lining of the cappliaries.
Am watching your help videos on Rising Damp and DPC and they are both interesting and very helpful. My intention to put in a DPC in the warmer months so I'll obviously refer to them again.Thanks for all your help and advice. Greatly appreciated.
I could do with a waterproof wall, I'm told I'm always p*****g my money up it so it should be waterproof.
Can you reach the guttering ? 😜
@@davidweston4007 he'd probably give it a try
Going to have to try this,last option before considering cladding. My house is 1890 end of terrace and the side takes a right battering. The neighbour’s was built 1914 and we chucked a bucket of water at the side of the house and I could not believe how quickly the water was absorbed. 2 seconds and no trace of water at all.
Consider vertical tile hanging in slate or plain tile. This protects the walls against wind driven rain. These principles work best for high exposure shaded areas. Adding a liquid seal before accurate diagnosis could be the start of a series of interventions you can't correct if it doesn't work. Don't add a seal as your first attempt just because it looks easy.
Thank you roger for the great video helped me out a lot never heard of stormdry before I’ve brought four tubes for my home to help with damp in some areas of my home and wow it worked a treat for me 1 more sub.
Surely the cream will stop the wall from breathing
Omg, I can’t believe you would do that to the brick work.. a redundant chimney maybe... clearly you have no clue, what you would use this product for.. stopping the brick work to breathe. Very good idea
You really don't understand how this product works or what it is. I suggest you do some research because you are completely wrong. It will not trap water vapour. I have used it with 100% success. You will see many others who say it has solved their damp problem in a day or so of putting it on. Please don't bring your ignorance to our table.
I used this 5 years ago on a wall that had had cavity wall flock injected and caused mould to form inside. After application I have had no more problems and after rain, you can tell that my house is protected when you look at the rest of the houses around me. It’s not cheap but better than a damp house.
It works out at about £5.40/m2 (material only, based on current pricing at Wicks). It's worth the money as this is about £300 for an average 3 bed terraced house. It's labour & scaffold costs which bring the price up significantly. So it's well worth DIY-ing it.
Did you do the outside of the wall or did you do both inside and out?
Just wondering if my dryer vent could be causing the damp brickwork, as the bricks are damp near the dryer vent and nowhere else around the house?
Thank you so much
You have just told me what's wrong with my wall !!!
Been considering this as my new build garage has a 9” solid wall that lets in water when you get driving rain from one direction.
Maybe if it's a new build you should consider getting the contractor back,
Or maybe cladding / render? But if water gets in any quick fix is a short term fix in my experience, a rebuild with a proper cavity is expensive but in the long run will reduce maintenance and increase value if you decide to sell.
Derek T defiantly use it you will be amazed see my post mate
I'm guessing the building is quite old, has solid (non cavity) walls and did not originally have a modern DPC membrane. It would have been built with lime which is much softer than cement, allows the building to breathe and helps moisture escape.
I've just removed the awful pebble dash & cement plaster from my 1870-ish stone building and there is no longer any damp issues.
At some point someone without historic building knowledge has probably used the wrong materials (inside and out) and you are now fighting that battle.
Sure, this product may work in the short term and it probably does what it claims. But there is no substitute for using the right materials for the job.
Fantastic stuff :-) To prevent damp penetration, can I apply "stomrdry" or other material on already painted old wall? Please let me know. Many thanks.
First port of call is to remove the hard pointing.
No need. Once the damp has gone the bricks dry out and no more water is absorbed. Saves a lot of time and damage to the bricks.
Great video Skill Builder team. 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I just spray the wall with 'Siliconate K' diluted with water. Lasts over 10 years and waterproofs the masonry. I had water tracking issues in the past but no longer and after any rain the house is dry fast.
p.s My house is built out of faux stone but when wet looks dry now. This is like water when applying and soaks in well. Just for heavens sake do not get it on glass as it will etch and never come off so cover your windows and move your car if spraying it !
Hi ,used a thing called THOMPSON WATER SEAL on walls and brickwork many years ago , last year and this year all the areas that were treated all those years ago have all started crumbling so watch out folks on what you use .Was told the bricks needs to breath (from an old bricklayers experience).
We all know about vapour permeability, that is not new. This product will not trap in moisture.
Great video! Any place I can buy this in the USA? Thanks cheers!
I have used on loads of houses they have different product wich are great worth the price.
great video. Ive just built a house and realised the bricks and mortar are very pourious .im considering coating the south east wall in stormdry. many building friends warn me against doing this as the brickwork is less than a year old and needs to weather.
my questions are -
1. is this a good idea on a new build?
2. does the wall need to be dry for application of this product ?
3. is product water or spirit bassed?
thanks for any replys
Might seem a daft question but should I point up my brickwork first before application and I'm guessing it's OK to paint the brickwork after it's dried?
Is it breathable? Best stuff on the market personally is innotec hydroguard, breathes so ideal to allow moisture out, and for lime work.
If you like the term 'breathable' then yes. It allows moisture out. Nothing is trapped.
@@WarmDryHome You are indeed missing something, the science! Think molecular sieve. Take a very fine gauze and blow through it, air passes through it no problem, now take it and run water over it, the water will run across the top of it.
It works on the same principle as breathable roofing felts and even GoreTex linings.
On fuel system self bleeders they also often use this principle, small gauze or very small hole in the bleeder, air will rush through it but no fuel.
Air can pass through a very small hole, water and other fluids cannot.
These breathable treatments as microscopic level effectively go on like a liquid gauze, it's like paint, we assume as it is a solid coating that it is just that, solid, it is not, at microscopic layers most emulsions for example are peppered with holes!
I'd bed money that a driven source of water would penetrate this stuff, although the term "waterproof" is being used, it is possibly more of a "water-resistance" albeit in the case of rain and a vertical surface it is as good as waterproof.
Nice to see you Rodger 👍👍. The hair doesn't look too bad this week 😀
This was filmed months ago.
Brilliant, thank you for bringing it to my attention. I too have a grade 2 listed building and this summer I will be using this product.
You made this comment 2 years ago... did you use it?
A solid brick or stone wall, built with lime mortar, needs to breathe. It loses its moisture content through the mortar joints.
The inside isnt treated though, so can breathe through that side. Most of the moisture would be stopped anyway.
Can you or would you use this on internal walls???
God bless you for sharing this info.
Will this prevent brick and mortar from Shedding Dust? I was thinking to use it indoor for the chimney
Can’t argue with 200 years
the plasters is bridging down to the floor so you need to make sure there's gap between the plaster and from the ground
Hi! This is really very informative.
I live in a 140-year old cottage bungalow. Everytime there is heavy rain, there is a leak coming into the chimney although it has been closed off from the top and bottom fitted with a vent. We had 5 roofers who have looked into the problem but no one has yet solved the issue. It has costed money! Is it worth using this product around the chimney bricks? I would reallh appreciate any help as this has caused us so much stress.
Nearly £120 for 5L 😱 It would have to be very good indeed! And how far would 5L go?
Can you apply this to internal walls before you put the insulation in?
For example, apply this to the inside walls then put insulation and then plasterboard?
Thank you Roger great video carry on.
This is very helpful actually because I live in an Edwardian house that’s been converted into a downstairs and upstairs flat and the bricks have been crumbling for years and I know when it rains the walls are affected. I too experience my electric tripping but had no idea why. I keep going on at my landlord about the state of the bricks all they do is pay a surveyor to make reports but not much happens or they tell me they have no evidence of any reports. Now I’m told they’re going to spray the internal walls which have been affected but surely the outside walls need treatment also???
I'm curious, why are you treating the inside walls?
Great video. Ive used storm dry a few times now. Great product but pricey. Do you know how Sandtex Brickwork waterproofer compares ?
Why not repoint in what it was laid in? Surely the solution is about letting the building breathe. The problem was that it was repointed in cement and not lime.
Can this be used on pebble dash walls?
Can you repoint brickwork after using this? Wondered if it will affect the bond to the brick or existing mortar?
I used Thomson's water seal did a great job.
Thank you Roger, excellent bit of info.
Thank you! I am going to do that!
tried a similar product in 2014. did not work.
if i buy this and it does not work, will they send someone out to inspect the wall and then maybe give a refund?
A similar product is not the same product. Send us some pictures of your wall and we can see what the problem is.
I wonder if I could use this on a external painted brick wall??
Great video Roger thanks Stay Safe
Thanks Michael you too!
Excuse my ignorance but what do you gain from applying this to a chimney?
Lovely, what about cracks though? Cheers
Tried this product and it didn’t work at all for me. Applied it as instructions stated, on the weather prevailing single brick walls on my garage, didn’t notice any improvement on these wall at all, so complained to the Stormdry. They were not at all sympathetic to the problem and seem to blame my application method (which I had already stated that I had followed the instructions). I sent them the batch numbers of the four tubs I bought, they then wanted me to test the walls with a kit they sent, which didn’t work. I know the product doesn’t work, it doesn’t bead water off, as shown on the videos, and the walls get soaking wet inside, when the rain beats agains those walls. I gave up in the end, but in my experience, I definitely can’t recommend this product, it was a very costly mistake.
It’s not cheap though hey, approx. £85+ for 3L in the UK right now (Dec ‘22), which apparently only covers 5sqm depending on the surface area! Eek 😅
Hi Roger
Many thanks for the video.
I have a external wall where it gets hammered with rain and wall is constantly wet having issue with uncontrollable mould. The exterior wall is rendered and painted. Can the stormdry help with this issue to waterproof my wall ?
That's exactly what I've got at my house. I hope Roger answers your question! 🙂
I'm guessing that once apply it you won't be able to paint over it as it will repell it?
I've got damp under the stairs and the brickwork has absored water because the wall with the damp is exposed outside as it backs onto an old coal shed.
Should this do the job of sorting out the damp?
Hi there. I really enjoy your expertise . I sent some photos of my bricks. Before I start sealing and filling in the mortor joints . Is sika ok to use ? I recall some comemts you made about some of these fillers . And only sand and lime mixtures are best .
Great video I used Thompson water seal many years ago but when I re seal it I will use this storm dry treatment
Thompson’s does not breath. I would never use than in a wall the needs to breath. I’m here to find out how breathable storm dry is! ✌🏽
Thanks Rodger. I'm in a financial disaster and you and this product and dryrod might just save my bacon. Can stormdry be applied over stone external walls that have been painted with what I believe is masonry paint? If not, how would I remove the masonry paint?
Could you sand blast the paint off?
do you need to remove the spalled bricks or can you just use stormdry over them ?
I have the same question.
@@locapoca Me too.
Stormdry good, Is it acrylic or silicon based?
As others have said, the problem in this case appears to be the cement mortar. My understanding is a Conservation officer should be consulted prior to conducting any work on a facade, the cement repairs might be 'part of the history of the building'. Alternately they could be quite recent and unauthorised, in which case you might have to pay for the work to be put back to it's original state. Always best to seek advice before going ahead.
You are right Danny always best to check.
SB, if you have a solid brick Pot brick, walls with no cavity what is the best method to insulate the property, internal
Or External, if the outer walls have rendered masonary and the property is a terrace property, with minimal signs of condensation.
Would weather proofing cream being applied to external walls be enough?
Hi, useful video, thanks. How many litres would you need for a gable end of a terraced house that’s roughly 45 square metres? Would one 20L tub be enough?