I use steel rebar when I'm drilling into existing concrete. Nice thing about steel is you can easily grind it a tiny bit narrower using a angle grinder before hammering them in. Fiberglass is great for outdoor due to it not rusting.
Time to modernize the 70's shag pad... It used to be the thing to have those sunken rooms - oh the memories. Just glad we didn't have cell phones back then. Great job guys!
Hey Tyler, your on screen presences is really getting good and your narrating is flowing nicely. I enjoy the videos, much props! RE: rebar, as you know the holes have to be drilled parallel with the floor or below parallel. When watching, it looks like the anchor holes are being drilled upwards of parallel forcing the rebar to point up. Sup with that?
I remember when these sunken living rooms were in style. I have to say, I didn’t care much for them then, and now they’re just wrong! (I’m an old person!)❤❤❤
We've done something similar--we took down a raised platform for a dining area which then needed a slab underneath to match with the rest of the slab in our great room. Intention was to lay new wood floor in the total combined space. We are in the Bay Area, we did in Feb, obviously a colder time of year. We waited a month to let that slab dry out to ensure non moisture seeped up. In the winter, indoors, even in a warmer area, you really got to wait to dry. And we did have to have ours ground, big ass diamond tooth grinder and that took a couple days on its own. It's a lot of post concrete work.
@@Wizeguy74 I know, but in plumbing, it's good practice to sand the pipe before gluing it to increase friction. I thought the same principle could apply here too.
Maybe a way to stop the end of the rebar breaking would be to use a small block of wood with a hole drilled into it part half way so you can put the block over the end and it will also give a bigger surface to hammer on
What about rubber cane tips? They come in multiple sizes. You could put them on the end of the bar to hammer it in. One more thing to put on and take off, but should be quick. And hammering fiberglass like that with no mask on isn’t a great idea.
@ please comment back if you use it. I’m not in construction and don’t know much about it but I like your channel. Would be interesting to know if I came up with something feasible.
You don't want to build up the floor level with wood, which would leave voids under the finished floor. That could become a moisture trap and eventually grow moldy. Filling it with concrete prevents that.
I never understood sunken rooms. I always look at them and say, "Why?" And I used to have a house with a radically sunken living room. Hated that house.
really glad you are nice to your guys . . watching victory guy . . bit of a dick . . ive been lucky to have worked all kinds of hard jobs all my life . . nice to have had great people pulling the same way . . you folks do great stuff . thank you guys . BTY . . victory guy is a goof . .
Learning a lot from you guys solute
Great job crew 👏👍💪 Bummer about drying time, that load did look pretty wet. Hey how do you notch your trowels? Grinder? 🤔
Yes with a grinder!
@OdellCompleteConcrete thanks! 🙌👍
Great video, as always.
ty
Sunken living rooms are the best! Can't wrap my head around somebody filling one in.
Looks good.
I use steel rebar when I'm drilling into existing concrete. Nice thing about steel is you can easily grind it a tiny bit narrower using a angle grinder before hammering them in. Fiberglass is great for outdoor due to it not rusting.
Time to modernize the 70's shag pad... It used to be the thing to have those sunken rooms - oh the memories. Just glad we didn't have cell phones back then. Great job guys!
Haha right on. Sounds good thank you
Good soundtrack. Well shot also.
Thanks!
Hey Tyler, your on screen presences is really getting good and your narrating is flowing nicely. I enjoy the videos, much props! RE: rebar, as you know the holes have to be drilled parallel with the floor or below parallel. When watching, it looks like the anchor holes are being drilled upwards of parallel forcing the rebar to point up. Sup with that?
TY, I try to drill them parallel not upwards not sure why it appeared that way
Digging the jazz 👍
Thanks! Glad you like it
I remember when these sunken living rooms were in style. I have to say, I didn’t care much for them then, and now they’re just wrong! (I’m an old person!)❤❤❤
True but they keep us busy filling them in now!
Do you guys do polyfoam leveling? I really can’t afford to tear up and redo my whole backyard slab.
We've done something similar--we took down a raised platform for a dining area which then needed a slab underneath to match with the rest of the slab in our great room. Intention was to lay new wood floor in the total combined space.
We are in the Bay Area, we did in Feb, obviously a colder time of year. We waited a month to let that slab dry out to ensure non moisture seeped up. In the winter, indoors, even in a warmer area, you really got to wait to dry.
And we did have to have ours ground, big ass diamond tooth grinder and that took a couple days on its own.
It's a lot of post concrete work.
Yes it takes time
Maybe you could make yourself something to go over the tip like a metal 4-in sleeve to hammer in the fiberglass dowels. Nice work again as usual.
Thanks, I might try that!
You're welcome Sir. God's Blessings on all your Family and Work @@OdellCompleteConcrete
Ream out the holes with roto-hammer...until clean then use air...great work boys!
Over size and epoxy
Maybe oversize and epoxy
Sunken living rooms are not ADA friendly.
Another win for Odell 🏁
For sure, they keep us busy
Try a spade bit on the impact next time you're removing grout and it will peel off like an orange skin. Nice fill-in...nailed it like a Jabberwocky!
That's a great tip!
Is it ok to pour over timber skirting and dry wall?
Great work
Thank you! Cheers!
"The spotlight of success shines brightest on the bold."
Thank you!
I dig the music, it sounds like Jeff Beck.
OSS
Couldn't tell but were the windows open? Also, would a couple of fans have helped the dry time?
yes both would have helped, but I opened every window I could
Nice, no more tripping!! 😊
yeah
That’s the goal!
Just curiosity. Wouldn't it be better to broom finish it to help the tiles stick to the floor?
Tile guys will put down morter or adhesive then the tiles.
@@Wizeguy74 I know, but in plumbing, it's good practice to sand the pipe before gluing it to increase friction. I thought the same principle could apply here too.
Maybe a way to stop the end of the rebar breaking would be to use a small block of wood with a hole drilled into it part half way so you can put the block over the end and it will also give a bigger surface to hammer on
I'll try it.
TY
Tidy as always !!
Thanks!
Nice job! BTW music equals headache 😂 maybe engage with trivia or project questions etc esp when doing voice over which is nice.
Sounds good
TY
I bet he does all the cake decorating/frosting at home.
The concrete can go against the drywall like that?
Yes if you want to change it later np, we put plastic
Use 1/2 bit with 3/8 rebar dowels pack epoxy. Easy Peasy
Great tip!
❤❤
Being a metal guy, I’d use steel tube with a plug welded in about an inch up inside the tube.
That’s a good idea!
maybe use a slightly bigger drill bit for the dowls
Yes I was thinking that too then use epoxy for bigger holes
5:22 slightly larger drill bit
Oversize and epoxy
oversize and epoxy
What about rubber cane tips? They come in multiple sizes. You could put them on the end of the bar to hammer it in. One more thing to put on and take off, but should be quick. And hammering fiberglass like that with no mask on isn’t a great idea.
That could be a good idea, never thought of that. Yea I think you’re right
@ please comment back if you use it. I’m not in construction and don’t know much about it but I like your channel. Would be interesting to know if I came up with something feasible.
@@cadet526hahaha yea if I do something similar or that I will show it in video
Won’t the drywall the concrete is touching absorb moisture from the concrete and decay, breakdown and become moldy?
Будет
That’s what I was thinking. Or is that plastic enough of a barrier to prevent all that? 🤔
The moisture should be gone in a couple of days. plus we had plastic against the drywall
epoxy the fiber glass rebar in the holes
Bigger holes with epoxy huh
Why concrete? Is it because the bottom is concrete?
What else is there for a 4" drop?
Concrete is best
You don't want to build up the floor level with wood, which would leave voids under the finished floor. That could become a moisture trap and eventually grow moldy. Filling it with concrete prevents that.
@@PAHighlander24exactly, this is a 6” drop too
💪💪💪💪💪❤❤❤❤❤
🙏🙌
Looks good from far, but far from good. You just created a low spot (ripple).
It'll probably be good enough.
Where
Sorry about Enrique being deported today. RIP
Are ya'll safe from the fires?
Yes thankfully
интересно насколько оно ровное?
Very smooth
I never understood sunken rooms. I always look at them and say, "Why?" And I used to have a house with a radically sunken living room. Hated that house.
It's a trip
Florida: sunken living rooms are considered basements according to insurance 😢😅!!
Insane
First!!!
close but in the money
3 👍
Close but in the running
1
You did it again
It won't be long now until you're awarded the "biggest dipshit" medal...
really glad you are nice to your guys . . watching victory guy . . bit of a dick . . ive been lucky to have worked all kinds of hard jobs all my life . . nice to have had great people pulling the same way . . you folks do great stuff . thank you guys . BTY . . victory guy is a goof . .