Having been an active model railroader 20 years ago, I enjoyed the trip down memory lane on prep, painting and decal work. I am trying to get back into this aspect of model work with some of the unfinished projects that have been sitting around for years. Watching your work has refreshed my memory of the work and joys of completing a nice project. Thanks for doing these instructional videos.
I am model railroader since the early 1970s 9 or 10 years old,at time some of those kits was the only models you could get that had good running and durable performance.I enjoyed watching your tips on how too assemble these models, your very patient and relaxed when you build them,a hallmark of good modeler. Hear i go sounding like a armchair modler, LOL
That looks and runs far better than I expected for such an old kit! I forget that most old models like this run like crap because they're worn out, and would have actually been pretty nice when they were new.
These old kits were usually well designed models and run well when built correctly! I’ve also found that the ones that run poorly can usually be brought back to life with a good cleaning and tune-up. Most of the problems come more from old grease and dirt than excessive wear.
Just came across this, will have to watch the previous episodes. You have the Bowser version of the Varney Old Lady kit. Bowser changed the under frame to fabricated brass, the original was die cast. These locos are pretty much bulletproof. Don’t know if anybody made a can motor conversion kit for it for DCC. Nice work again Darth. Look forward for more.
@@RichardKroboth There might have been a Helix Humper/Accurate Lighting motor at some point. The DC-71’s a good runner though! It’s also easy enough to isolate the grounded brush for DCC if needed.
New to your channel. Love watching a Bowser kit go together, it's a shame that they don't manufacture these or the parts. I have several I bought used, one kit I've yet to finish, a Penn Line Atlantic still in package, and an A-3 kit. I had bought two used Penn Line Challengers, one operating, one not. Looking forward to totally restoring both of them.Before his passing, my step dad most have got bored, took and completely disassembled one of them, leaving me a box of parts for me to figure out! Fortunately, I have the instructions....
Nicely done! I'm on the same boat right now, restoring some Tenshodo and Rivarossi vintages from 50-60's. One thing I couldn't stand for, however, are these heavy, noisy, power sucking open frame motors from that era. So, keeping all other things as close to original, the motors are replaced with modern 5-pole cans without exception ... Now I can hear click-clack on track joints and even consider sound decoders installation LOL.
This has been a helpful short series for me to get my two kits painted. I also noticed you have a video on repowering a tyco tender drive. I think I am going to do that to mine as the motor self destructed in spectacular fashion.
I'm glad the series helped! The Chattanooga tender drive took some work to assemble since it was all custom, but I've heard an easier way is to use a Bachmann 44-Tonner chassis.
@@DarthSantaFe Well, the problem is that building it from scratch would actually be cheaper than gutting a GE 44 ton switcher. I have the know how and technical skills to do so, though I would also like to try and do a conversion with another tyco locomotive I have.
Last 2 I built came incomplete. Pretty interesting to find parts now. Ended up having to make a couple replacement parts. Still running great after 20 years. Prices have gone up considerably the last few years
Looks great. For a generic kit, rather than being a model of an actual loco, she looks pretty convincing. Admittedly, my knowledge of U.S. steam is rather limited but I'd be perfectly happy to run this on an American layout.👍😁
It's not too hard. All you have to do is isolate the right-side motor brush from the frame, which could be done with some thin plastic or electrical tape, then solder a wire to it. The DCC installation after that is just like any other wired model without a plug. You'll want to use a decoder that can handle over 2 amps for just in case it ever stalls.
I really thought when you were putting it together at the start is was for checking the fitment of everything before you rub it all down properly paint it then assemble it adding pipe work to the boiler and getting rid of the the moulded detail it really could have been an amazing looking engine I suppose you could strip it and start again I would and make it dcc. Not bad if it’s your first try.
I checked for proper fitting in the previous videos, and only wanted to assemble it with the parts provided instead of adding extra details. This video series was only to show the basics, and the ones I’m working on now are going into more detail. I’ve actually built a lot of kits over the past 20 years or so.
The gloss paint works better with decals since there’s less chance for air to be trapped underneath, giving cleaner results. The clear coat I used was satin/semi-gloss for a “fresh from the shop” look, so it’s a shinier finish than if I’d used a dull coat.
@@DarthSantaFe true on the decals. I have used future floor polish which is basically an acrylic clear then flat coated over it after the decals are on. Nice job on the train. I noticed the casting of the boiler said Varney which is a very old company.
@@johnmajane3731 Thanks! I personally use Testors Dullcote for flat finishes and get great results. The boiler and pilot castings were made with the old Varney tooling.
13:27 You do such A1 excellent work I know not why you 'floored it' like that !!! Why not just slowest start possible and see how she creeps to a start like the 1:1 scale, instead of spinning the drivers at immediate full speed that way ! That really surprised me that you'd do that after the sensitivity you displayed throughout the project... For this reason I gave you a 'thumbs-down' whereas the other 4 Vids a 'thumbs up'... Sorry, but I found that foolish and disturbing a thing to do !! Keep that up and the nickle silver starts wearing away and copper starts appearing !! M, Los Angeles
It was a quick one-time traction test to see how long it would take to gain full traction with 20 freight cars behind it. At least it wasn't loaded to the point of constant slipping like Model Railroader does whenever they review a new model. :)
No ! All you did was slip the shizte out of it at the get go ! Doing that proves '0' as to a model engine's ability to haul.. Add the maximum cars it can pull before starting to slip and no movement at slow roll-off.. Put train up a grade... What you did was far worse than anything Model Railroader would do... I mean, what did you expect would happen blasting it like that ?.. You floored it like a 1:1 scale automobile, pealing out, spinning its tires...
Having been an active model railroader 20 years ago, I enjoyed the trip down memory lane on prep, painting and decal work. I am trying to get back into this aspect of model work with some of the unfinished projects that have been sitting around for years. Watching your work has refreshed my memory of the work and joys of completing a nice project. Thanks for doing these instructional videos.
I am model railroader since the early 1970s 9 or 10 years old,at time some of those kits was the only models you could get that had good running and durable performance.I enjoyed watching your tips on how too assemble these models, your very patient and relaxed when you build them,a hallmark of good modeler. Hear i go sounding like a armchair modler, LOL
That looks and runs far better than I expected for such an old kit! I forget that most old models like this run like crap because they're worn out, and would have actually been pretty nice when they were new.
These old kits were usually well designed models and run well when built correctly! I’ve also found that the ones that run poorly can usually be brought back to life with a good cleaning and tune-up. Most of the problems come more from old grease and dirt than excessive wear.
Just came across this, will have to watch the previous episodes. You have the Bowser version of the Varney Old Lady kit. Bowser changed the under frame to fabricated brass, the original was die cast. These locos are pretty much bulletproof. Don’t know if anybody made a can motor conversion kit for it for DCC. Nice work again Darth. Look forward for more.
@@RichardKroboth There might have been a Helix Humper/Accurate Lighting motor at some point. The DC-71’s a good runner though! It’s also easy enough to isolate the grounded brush for DCC if needed.
A wonderful 5 part series you do some very neat work most enjoyable I have to get to bed!!! Take Care a d be well luv those Trains!!!!
Great build! The locomotive came out great as always!
Great series! Thanks for putting this out there.
New to your channel. Love watching a Bowser kit go together, it's a shame that they don't manufacture these or the parts. I have several I bought used, one kit I've yet to finish, a Penn Line Atlantic still in package, and an A-3 kit. I had bought two used Penn Line Challengers, one operating, one not. Looking forward to totally restoring both of them.Before his passing, my step dad most have got bored, took and completely disassembled one of them, leaving me a box of parts for me to figure out! Fortunately, I have the instructions....
Nicely done! I'm on the same boat right now, restoring some Tenshodo and Rivarossi vintages from 50-60's. One thing I couldn't stand for, however, are these heavy, noisy, power sucking open frame motors from that era. So, keeping all other things as close to original, the motors are replaced with modern 5-pole cans without exception ... Now I can hear click-clack on track joints and even consider sound decoders installation LOL.
This has been a helpful short series for me to get my two kits painted. I also noticed you have a video on repowering a tyco tender drive. I think I am going to do that to mine as the motor self destructed in spectacular fashion.
I'm glad the series helped! The Chattanooga tender drive took some work to assemble since it was all custom, but I've heard an easier way is to use a Bachmann 44-Tonner chassis.
@@DarthSantaFe Well, the problem is that building it from scratch would actually be cheaper than gutting a GE 44 ton switcher. I have the know how and technical skills to do so, though I would also like to try and do a conversion with another tyco locomotive I have.
That was a great job nice complete video series, Loved it that's
Last 2 I built came incomplete. Pretty interesting to find parts now. Ended up having to make a couple replacement parts. Still running great after 20 years. Prices have gone up considerably the last few years
Nice job. A applaud your patience.
Very nice. Neat tip with the jewels.
Great looking locomotive!
I always enjoy watching your videos. Very inspiring.
Turned out pretty great!
Runs and looks great NICE job
Looks great. For a generic kit, rather than being a model of an actual loco, she looks pretty convincing. Admittedly, my knowledge of U.S. steam is rather limited but I'd be perfectly happy to run this on an American layout.👍😁
Thanks! The design used elements from various common steam engines, so it can fit on many layouts and still look good without being too out of place!
Great video series. You missed the drivers while painting!
Thanks! Since the drivers on this one were blackened, I left them unpainted this time to keep things to a more basic level.
Is that a Bachmann track inspection car in the background at 14:30? If so, is that the original paint too?
Yes, it’s a Bachmann Plasser track cleaner, and the paint is original.
@@DarthSantaFe Cool, I didn't know they made a track cleaner. I thought it was a inspection car with different paint.
Great job, great video!!
How easy would it be to install plain DCC (no sound) on one of these.
It's not too hard. All you have to do is isolate the right-side motor brush from the frame, which could be done with some thin plastic or electrical tape, then solder a wire to it. The DCC installation after that is just like any other wired model without a plug. You'll want to use a decoder that can handle over 2 amps for just in case it ever stalls.
I really thought when you were putting it together at the start is was for checking the fitment of everything before you rub it all down properly paint it then assemble it adding pipe work to the boiler and getting rid of the the moulded detail it really could have been an amazing looking engine I suppose you could strip it and start again I would and make it dcc. Not bad if it’s your first try.
I checked for proper fitting in the previous videos, and only wanted to assemble it with the parts provided instead of adding extra details. This video series was only to show the basics, and the ones I’m working on now are going into more detail. I’ve actually built a lot of kits over the past 20 years or so.
@heli-man-2007 Please leave a link to your locomotive kit building videos.
So, you're a neurosurgeon in real life, huh? 👍
I wonder why you used gloss paint? Even with the dull coat it is to shiny. Nice job otherwise.
The gloss paint works better with decals since there’s less chance for air to be trapped underneath, giving cleaner results. The clear coat I used was satin/semi-gloss for a “fresh from the shop” look, so it’s a shinier finish than if I’d used a dull coat.
@@DarthSantaFe true on the decals. I have used future floor polish which is basically an acrylic clear then flat coated over it after the decals are on. Nice job on the train. I noticed the casting of the boiler said Varney which is a very old company.
@@johnmajane3731 Thanks! I personally use Testors Dullcote for flat finishes and get great results. The boiler and pilot castings were made with the old Varney tooling.
13:27 You do such A1 excellent work I know not why you 'floored it' like that !!!
Why not just slowest start possible and see how she creeps to a start like the 1:1 scale, instead of spinning the drivers at immediate full speed that way ! That really surprised me that you'd do that after the sensitivity you displayed throughout the project...
For this reason I gave you a 'thumbs-down' whereas the other 4 Vids a 'thumbs up'...
Sorry, but I found that foolish and disturbing a thing to do !! Keep that up and the nickle silver starts wearing away and copper starts appearing !!
M, Los Angeles
It was a quick one-time traction test to see how long it would take to gain full traction with 20 freight cars behind it. At least it wasn't loaded to the point of constant slipping like Model Railroader does whenever they review a new model. :)
No ! All you did was slip the shizte out of it at the get go ! Doing that proves '0' as to a model engine's ability to haul.. Add the maximum cars it can pull before starting to slip and no movement at slow roll-off.. Put train up a grade... What you did was far worse than anything Model Railroader would do... I mean, what did you expect would happen blasting it like that ?.. You floored it like a 1:1 scale automobile, pealing out, spinning its tires...
@@MarkInLA ok
@@DarthSantaFe OK