Thank you very much for your video. I have been servicing these heaters for 45 years and shown people this exact process does not work. Yet all day every day, morons post, "burn it clean by running on high for 5 minutes."
The problem is that the heaters are mounted in spaces that get warm quickly and after this it will work on on low level. By running the heater before shutting it down on high can help in the long time not when the build up is like on this one. As you know the heater activates the glow plug when shutting exactly for this purpose.
I use a syringe and put drops of hydrochloric acid on the chunky concrete muck that builds up in burn chamber, rinse with water and most of the crud comes out what is left is softened up and scrapes out easily. I wouldn't use too much as it may corrode some of the alloy parts. But seems to work fine for me. I am thinking of making a small pressure nozzle with a right angle bend to fit behind the washer thingy so after using the acid you can spray high pressure water around the outside of the chamber where the other gauzing is, the hydrochloric acid defiantly turns the carbon into a sludge but over time it may cause corrosion unless properly rinsed , and it also puts out a horrible rotten egg gas smell. I am only still new to these heaters but have worked out that it is pointless to run them on waste oil blends as they carbon up the chamber in 2 tanks of fuel, so I just run mine on diesel now. Don't beleive the clickbait video's of people claiming they run their heater on waste oil for 2 years without a clean, you would be lucky to get that time without a clean on diesel. After trying the waste oil is when I discovered the acid trick for cleaning. The crap left behind by used engine oils or other waste oils builds up like chunks of concrete, and is just as hard in places.
Actually that is ok, it will prevent build up be. Only a very little amount will be there after running on low for a few hours and the heater can burn it off. This one had about 85% of the working hours on low and this kind of build up takes time to develop.
Espars websight recommends running the heater on kerosine for 30 min after replacing the glowplug screen to clean deposits. I have a D2 Airtronoc that was smoking and flaming out and when it kept combustion was very noisy I tried this it worked now quiet even combustion running like new. The websight shows a before and after of the burner it looks like new try it worked for me.
i have worked on these heaters, one was used through freezing weather conditions and it was clogged so bad it would smoke to the point it was a massive cloud of white for about 2 minutes and error because it couldnt stay lit without the glow plug running, multiple attemps to start it failled, even cutting the power immediatly after the error and restarting while it was still warm from previous attempts failed. I sat and thought about how bad diesel can be as a fuel if its not complettly burnt with a build up of soot, wax and oily gel everywhere and thought how hard it is to burn diesel. i had an idea! burn off all thet unburnt diesel clogging it up! I mixed 2 litres of korsine in with 3 litres of diesel to make the diesel burn a LOT easier, took the exaust off and the air cleaner for maximum aspiration, bled the fuel line to get the new mix up to the unit, it failed to lite first attempt but succeeded second attemp, smoked for a about 3 minutes a fair bit then slowly stopped smoking, ran it full blast for about an hour and put the whole 5 litres through it, its been perfect for 3 months so far but my lesson is in frosty weather add a little bit of kerosine to the diesel every so often to burn off the crap.
A couple of observations on the burning off. It looked at first that you had your torch set for an orange and therefore reducing flame (as in one that will not oxidise and burn) but later I could see that this wasn't the case as it was a blue flame. It was clearly looking orange then, because it was burning off the carbon, if not enough. I wonder what would happen if you got it red hot and hit it with compressed air whilst hot? I take it you can buy the burner tubes?
Of course you can buy new ones, I just tried a myth that says these can be cleaned like this. Taking in account that this was cut open I highly doubt that you can clean them while in one piece.
David Mcluckie successfully did a water injection experiment on youtube and it worked, me I just burn Kerosene instead its cheaper never smokes on start up and keeps then burn chamber clean, I add 1ml per litre of 2 stroke oil to aid in lubing the pumps. hotter burns by 15 degrees C quicker starts and improoved heating and kerosene is currently £108 + vat a litre in the UK win win. you will get a little smoke from the exhaust initially as the carbon burns away but once your runing on kerosene all the time it will run much cleaner and also no need to run the heater up to a high temp before shutting it down so it saves fuel to. no white smoke on start ups either, kerosene also ignites faster to and it will never freeze unlike diesel which will freeze if you are in extreems of weather.
Depinde de șablonul chinezului, am auzit de conducte prin care nu trecea motorina, alții au găsit plasa de metal care mișca pe interiorul camerei. Sunt net inferioare dar dacă prinzi una cat de cât dreapta și fără probleme funcționează. Am văzut și cazuri în care țeava efectiv a ars 😂.
Could anyone share their experiences with opting for more affordable aftermarket burner as opposed to investing in a genuine Eberspächer burner replacement?
I would say if you already have a genuine heater invest in genuine parts. Eberspaecher has also an automotive exhaust factory so the quality of the metal used in aftermarket will never match the original one.
Using a welding torch with added oxygen will easily not only burn the carbon residue in the stainless steel mesh it will also burn or at least melt the fine stainless steel mesh. You will have to replace the mesh in the vaporizer part of the flame pipe. The new Airtronic-3 burner mesh might be easier to regenerate.
Airtronic 3 for now is not being produced at least until July, so the very few that are out there are working fine. We will see when the burners start failing but even on that burner it will be same, you will probably melt the mesh.
Hello 🙋♂️ Just a few quick questions for you !! 1: In your opinion - what is the; BEST diesel heater (DH) that is on the market right now ? 2: In your opinion - what DH has the best robust well made components in them ? 3: In your opinion - Which Country manufacturers the best DH ? 4: If you had enough money - which DH would you purchase for yourself ? 5: What DH do you very rarely see coming through your workstation for repair ? 6: Which DH do you find that is; “BER” more than any of the others that are on the market ? Thanks 🙏 James 😷✌🏾
1. If we consider innovative functions I would say Eberspaecher. 2 .Webasto in my opinion wins this one, I would say they have a more robust case. 3. Both Webasto and Eberspaecher have HQ in Germany 4. I would buy Eberspaecher because they are easier to repair, the components are more easy to access. 5. I only repair Eberspaecher so I can't give an answer on this one. 6. I don't understand the abbreviation in this question.
just run it on kerosene it will clean it all out and it will stay clean for good, a little smokey at first but it will defo clean it out as kero burns about 15 degrees C hotter. add alittle 2 stroke oil to lube the pump 1m ml per litre of kerosene.
You didn't get the rear part of the chamber hot enough, for long enough, and moved the torch around too fast. It has to be red hot in one spot for a minute or two, not ten seconds.
Since it was cut it got the heat directly, anyway like I said in the video for DIY it can work and surely it will clean up more than just blowing it with air, for a workshop this workaround it is not realible enough. First of all the causes of a build up must be sorted out.
Hello 🙋♂️ Firstly - thanks for your prompt reply and your thoughts on the units you have worked with. It was very much appreciated and will help me in my thoughts and final decision when purchasing one for my motorhome MH. BER = “Beyond Economical Repair” Take care and stay safe 😷 James ✌🏾
BER- usually are old heaters that are discontinued, for example an ECU costs half of price of a new model. For a motorhome I would look at combined solution that serves as heating and also hot water. There are cheaper solutions than webasto dual top 😉
Thank you very much for your video. I have been servicing these heaters for 45 years and shown people this exact process does not work. Yet all day every day, morons post, "burn it clean by running on high for 5 minutes."
The problem is that the heaters are mounted in spaces that get warm quickly and after this it will work on on low level. By running the heater before shutting it down on high can help in the long time not when the build up is like on this one. As you know the heater activates the glow plug when shutting exactly for this purpose.
I use a syringe and put drops of hydrochloric acid on the chunky concrete muck that builds up in burn chamber, rinse with water and most of the crud comes out what is left is softened up and scrapes out easily. I wouldn't use too much as it may corrode some of the alloy parts. But seems to work fine for me. I am thinking of making a small pressure nozzle with a right angle bend to fit behind the washer thingy so after using the acid you can spray high pressure water around the outside of the chamber where the other gauzing is, the hydrochloric acid defiantly turns the carbon into a sludge but over time it may cause corrosion unless properly rinsed , and it also puts out a horrible rotten egg gas smell. I am only still new to these heaters but have worked out that it is pointless to run them on waste oil blends as they carbon up the chamber in 2 tanks of fuel, so I just run mine on diesel now. Don't beleive the clickbait video's of people claiming they run their heater on waste oil for 2 years without a clean, you would be lucky to get that time without a clean on diesel. After trying the waste oil is when I discovered the acid trick for cleaning. The crap left behind by used engine oils or other waste oils builds up like chunks of concrete, and is just as hard in places.
well done sir. and still people will say "run it on high to before shut off to burn of the soot"😅
Actually that is ok, it will prevent build up be. Only a very little amount will be there after running on low for a few hours and the heater can burn it off. This one had about 85% of the working hours on low and this kind of build up takes time to develop.
well how do you clean it the right way ?
For me the only way is to change it. You will find in the comments all kinds of solutions. If they work or not I don't know. Probably not.
What the purpose of the screen/ mesh? Act as a catalyst? Anyone know.
Espars websight recommends running the heater on kerosine for 30 min after replacing the glowplug screen to clean deposits. I have a D2 Airtronoc that was smoking and flaming out and when it kept combustion was very noisy I tried this it worked now quiet even combustion running like new. The websight shows a before and after of the burner it looks like new try it worked for me.
i have worked on these heaters, one was used through freezing weather conditions and it was clogged so bad it would smoke to the point it was a massive cloud of white for about 2 minutes and error because it couldnt stay lit without the glow plug running, multiple attemps to start it failled, even cutting the power immediatly after the error and restarting while it was still warm from previous attempts failed. I sat and thought about how bad diesel can be as a fuel if its not complettly burnt with a build up of soot, wax and oily gel everywhere and thought how hard it is to burn diesel. i had an idea! burn off all thet unburnt diesel clogging it up! I mixed 2 litres of korsine in with 3 litres of diesel to make the diesel burn a LOT easier, took the exaust off and the air cleaner for maximum aspiration, bled the fuel line to get the new mix up to the unit, it failed to lite first attempt but succeeded second attemp, smoked for a about 3 minutes a fair bit then slowly stopped smoking, ran it full blast for about an hour and put the whole 5 litres through it, its been perfect for 3 months so far but my lesson is in frosty weather add a little bit of kerosine to the diesel every so often to burn off the crap.
A couple of observations on the burning off. It looked at first that you had your torch set for an orange and therefore reducing flame (as in one that will not oxidise and burn) but later I could see that this wasn't the case as it was a blue flame. It was clearly looking orange then, because it was burning off the carbon, if not enough.
I wonder what would happen if you got it red hot and hit it with compressed air whilst hot?
I take it you can buy the burner tubes?
Of course you can buy new ones, I just tried a myth that says these can be cleaned like this. Taking in account that this was cut open I highly doubt that you can clean them while in one piece.
@@DIYHelper I do like a challenge... Have you got a really really bad one that couldn't possibly be cleaned in one piece?
David Mcluckie successfully did a water injection experiment on youtube and it worked, me I just burn Kerosene instead its cheaper never smokes on start up and keeps then burn chamber clean, I add 1ml per litre of 2 stroke oil to aid in lubing the pumps. hotter burns by 15 degrees C quicker starts and improoved heating and kerosene is currently £108 + vat a litre in the UK win win. you will get a little smoke from the exhaust initially as the carbon burns away but once your runing on kerosene all the time it will run much cleaner and also no need to run the heater up to a high temp before shutting it down so it saves fuel to. no white smoke on start ups either, kerosene also ignites faster to and it will never freeze unlike diesel which will freeze if you are in extreems of weather.
@@oojimmyflip Cheers.
One of my Chinese heaters has a burner that screws apart so the mesh can be cleaned or replaced. Why aren't they all built that way?
where did you buy the burner ?
@@hjhenk422 Didn't buy it separately, it was in an 8kw heater I bought years ago.
ce parere ai de camerele de ardere replacement pt eberspacher care se gasesc la aprox 150-200 lei pe piata?
Depinde de șablonul chinezului, am auzit de conducte prin care nu trecea motorina, alții au găsit plasa de metal care mișca pe interiorul camerei. Sunt net inferioare dar dacă prinzi una cat de cât dreapta și fără probleme funcționează. Am văzut și cazuri în care țeava efectiv a ars 😂.
Could anyone share their experiences with opting for more affordable aftermarket burner as opposed to investing in a genuine Eberspächer burner replacement?
I would say if you already have a genuine heater invest in genuine parts. Eberspaecher has also an automotive exhaust factory so the quality of the metal used in aftermarket will never match the original one.
Using a welding torch with added oxygen will easily not only burn the carbon residue in the stainless steel mesh it will also burn or at least melt the fine stainless steel mesh.
You will have to replace the mesh in the vaporizer part of the flame pipe.
The new Airtronic-3 burner mesh might be easier to regenerate.
Yes, but I didn't want to destroy it, I was just trying to make a point.
Airtronic 3 for now is not being produced at least until July, so the very few that are out there are working fine. We will see when the burners start failing but even on that burner it will be same, you will probably melt the mesh.
@@DIYHelper Here in Europe you can already buy Airtronic-3 heaters.
@@jorgruthschilling it was possible but due to supply problems production is postponed. I am also from EU.
Hello 🙋♂️
Just a few quick questions for you !!
1: In your opinion - what is the; BEST diesel heater (DH) that is on the market right now ?
2: In your opinion - what DH has the best robust well made components in them ?
3: In your opinion - Which Country manufacturers the best DH ?
4: If you had enough money - which DH would you purchase for yourself ?
5: What DH do you very rarely see coming through your workstation for repair ?
6: Which DH do you find that is; “BER” more than any of the others that are on the market ?
Thanks 🙏
James 😷✌🏾
1. If we consider innovative functions I would say Eberspaecher.
2 .Webasto in my opinion wins this one, I would say they have a more robust case.
3. Both Webasto and Eberspaecher have HQ in Germany
4. I would buy Eberspaecher because they are easier to repair, the components are more easy to access.
5. I only repair Eberspaecher so I can't give an answer on this one.
6. I don't understand the abbreviation in this question.
What bout soaking in parts cleaner or carb cleaner in a parts washer, brake clean. Let it dry very well. Maybe scrub little with a brush as soak it
I tried with brake clean, no effect. Did not try carb cleaner but I doubt it will work.
2.25 - split gasket!
just run it on kerosene it will clean it all out and it will stay clean for good, a little smokey at first but it will defo clean it out as kero burns about 15 degrees C hotter. add alittle 2 stroke oil to lube the pump 1m ml per litre of kerosene.
Just wondering if anyone has tried cleaning the burner in ultrw sonic cleaner?
I tried that , hardly made a difference
So how many other people were screaming to put the torch in the glow plug hole? He did it with the air nozzle, but not the torch!
It looks like the old mesh was pushed into the chamber
What about sonic cleaning
I heard about that also and they are saying it is successful but I didn't try it myself
Sonic will definitely help while soaking in BBQ/OVEN cleaner.
You didn't get the rear part of the chamber hot enough, for long enough, and moved the torch around too fast. It has to be red hot in one spot for a minute or two, not ten seconds.
Since it was cut it got the heat directly, anyway like I said in the video for DIY it can work and surely it will clean up more than just blowing it with air, for a workshop this workaround it is not realible enough. First of all the causes of a build up must be sorted out.
What a stupid statement. That section of the burner NEVER gets above 600°C when the heater is running on high.
@@reidnichol9255 Whom are you so rudely referring to?
Just replace the damn burner.
Exactly
Sodium Hidroxide, and hot water. Will clean all the burned ass. Leave it a few hours. Pe scurt, soda caustica cu apa.
Hello 🙋♂️
Firstly - thanks for your prompt reply and your thoughts on the units you have worked with.
It was very much appreciated and will
help me in my thoughts and final decision when purchasing one for my motorhome MH.
BER = “Beyond Economical Repair”
Take care and stay safe 😷
James ✌🏾
BER- usually are old heaters that are discontinued, for example an ECU costs half of price of a new model. For a motorhome I would look at combined solution that serves as heating and also hot water. There are cheaper solutions than webasto dual top 😉