Hey Internet! Here are some common questions for this video to save you commenting on it: 1) The center tube was not within “flaring” range to make it fit. I tried that and scrapped a couple parts in the process. Even if I could have, it wouldn’t have been a good joint because the diameter is then not parallel to the tube plate hole sides. The sliver solder would have had to fill a large wedge-shaped gap, which it is not good at doing. 2) Yes, I am aware that tube rolling is a thing. It’s a high-skill process requiring expensive tools though, which is why hobbyists all silver solder instead. I’m not breaking any ground here. This entire boiler is bog-standard model engineering going back a long way. I see no reason to deviate from proven practice here.
But this gives you the excuse to get all the expensive equipment to roll tubes and then flex on your peers in the hobby machinist space. Think of the real objective here!
I doubt that tube rolling (I assume you mean tube expanding) would work well with copper. In large water tube boilers, tube expanding is used, but in this case it is steel boiler tube that is specifically made for the job. Keep up the great work. I look forward to your next video.
@@michaelboettcher6913 not to forget depending on what type of tubing it is such as "K" for Refrigeration the strength isn't marginalized by swaging it. The silver solder isn't a soldering process anyway. It's Brazing. The strength it adds makes the materials far stronger than their strengths alone.
@@michaelboettcher6913 After swaging, are the connections tight enough and no soldering required? I doubt it. I am a retired mechanical engineer and my entire career is with high pressure water tube boilers and water treatment for steam supply to power station turbines. You are talking about connecting refrigerant tubing with a fairly long swage. It is so different from expanding tubes into a thin plate. Blondi is correct in that the hobby boiler makers solder their tubes to the boiler plate. Expanding the tubes into a thin copper plate will not be a good idea.
Quinn , your idea of the the stop on the pipe cutter is brilliant... Years ago I worked with this older English gentlemen and on our first shift together he said bring torches... I will meet you at the job . So I bring the torches in the elevator up from the basement to the shop floor. I wheel them about a half city block to the job , He looks at me and starts laughing , and said to me " Mate I should have said bring extra flash lights sorry about that " ?????
Same thing. In the 80's putting cameras into NASCARs (Racecam). We ask one of the team if we can borrow a torch - and the next minute he is wheeling over the oxy set... (And I like the way he didn't hesitate at the thought of us attacking their lovely car with oxy)
I know what you mean, even in western Europe (with pretty much just metric only countries aside from the UK), trace width is still measured in imperial mil, clearance and many other things also, trace length on the other hand is for whatever reason mm again.
@@VEC7ORlt Depends also mostly on the company. In uni pretty much everything was metric, even something like smd resistor package dimensions, which usually are universally always imperial. Though in jobs a lot of imperial is used yes even for trace width, just makes it easier to work with manufacturing or resource sharing outside of europe.
@@escain I dont really care tbh to use imperial on the job. Its just required for a lot of dimensions to be in imperial (for documentation that is generated from the CAD), but the CAD does the conversion anyway. I can type in the dimension i want for e.g trace width in metric and then it automatically converts to the closest imperial whole number, as all the DRs are imperial also (the tolerances of that are so small that its absolutely negligible and are far outweight by manufacturing tolerances). It can be done both ways, but in the end it doesnt really matter as both are practically the same.
Hahah I blend 450g of flour with 1 and 1/2 cups of water, 7g of yeast and 1 and 1/2 tsp salt to bake in the oven at 450F for the first half hour followed by about an hour at 375F. YAY to being a Canadian :D
@@sjenkins1057 Rustic breads are high hydration. I've made some rye breads that have been higher but I am not as good at them. (and just as an edit note, my daughter was born allergic to tomatoes, I had to make her pizza special for her at a time when non-red pizzas just were not a thing, made a lot of leave it and let it be dough's over the course of her childhood).
That was exceptionally cool. Thanks for this series. Mechanical Engineer that understands all of this but fearful of buying expensive equipment that is possible but realistically not in the budget. Maybe one day. Bucket list thing you know?
And by the way WTF is a kW? Us North America engineers South of the land of Canadia use BTUs. Inches, BTUs, foot-pounds, horsepower, all things we understand. What the hell is a dyne? Lol
26 tubes is a lot of tubes, I am just glad I did not build the boiler that was on my ship when I was in the Navy, it had 1500 small 3/4 inch tubes and over 100 2 inch tubes to protect the smaller tube. And it had several larger tubes, I think were 6 inches or bigger. If you are curious, look up modified D type boiler. All boiler techs were eliminated in the 1990s. My boiler was a 600 PSI boiler. I know some were tiny at 1200 psi both were for main propulsion, there were others were 25 psi mainly for heat, cooking, laundry, distilling water for drinking and fresh water for the boiler. Thank you keep making me smile, I enjoy your videos very much. Lee
METRIC size tubing!?! (imperial fistshake) Farklebutt! You know that you will have to use a stick of Whitworth sodder on that. And 100,000 is reached. Yay! Thanks, and Meow back at Sprocket.
Great video and I enjoy your sense of humor. Come on now you know we need more t-nut videos, like Will Ferrell said “we need more cow bell. That was a sweet recovery at the end, and you turned it into a great teaching opportunity. Beautifully done, as always. Thanks Blondihacks
Drilled and tapped 1/2-13 hole in headstock of lathe and threaded 5/8 CRS roundstock with 1/2 threads on end, into it. Made a bar with reamed 5/8 hole from 1/2 flatstock, slotsawed hole, tapped slot 10-24 for SHCS as a clamp and used that as a flip up stop with split collar on the 5/8 roundstock for repeatability for a parting tool. Works pretty good. Even better with a travel indicator. So sorta kinda like what you did Quinn. I like your idea.
Further to the “Leicester” conundrum, In the UK we also have places such as Worcester (Wuster), Gloucester (Glosster) and areas in Coventry called Stivichall (Sty chall) and Cheylesmore (Charles more). Good work on the boiler, thanks for the posts, always entertaining!
There's always one in the crowd, eh? I was thinking that you might anneal and expand the two ends of a regular size tube. But the 10mm works just fine too. And makes for a better story! And as well congrats on hitting the 100K subscribers.
Give me a lil chuckle every time I see one of your videos automatically pay on my home page and it say welcome to bloody hacks on the closed captioning..... keep up the great work Quinn!
It is a shame one does not have an option to put an exclamation point after the thumbs up symbol! I also like your humor and your very good teaching ability! A question please. What would be a good way to keep a Sherline motor from overheating on very long runs so it doesn't cause itself to protectively shutdown. Also to extend the motor's bearings life. Thank you.
@09:18 Oh, that is a WONDERFUL tip! I dearly hope I can remember it because I have at least one center drill that looks like that. Great presentation, G̶r̶i̶n̶n̶ Quinn; looking forward to the next steps!
When I worked for a company building gas trays for semiconductor equipment. We modified the same type tubing cutter to fit one of the lathe tool holders. Clamped the SST tube in the 3 jaw chuck, moved the carriage to the length needed and made the cut.
If you would have been my teacher at school, I would have a doctorate in everything, even sence of humor. I love your videos and channel subject. Oh yes, we also have a very large mix of units in every thing we do. Thank you.
One of the things I appreciate about your videos is that you give a sense of touch involved. For instance, the way you address the work with a file. Nice. Thank you.
One thing I often say, to wind up American friends, is that there is only the Queen's English; anything else is wrong. It generally gets a bite. I love the fact that this language we share is a complete mongrel and is a living and evolving thing. Makes for many fun interactions :)
Slick tool build! Could make the brass stop part a disc with a radius same as max tubing cutter opening, threaded hole in the middle, stop nut as now, making it universally adjustable and capable of working with any size tubing the cutter can fit.
Beautiful positioning table there. The best I could ever do was a locking tilt-vise. For making precisely placed "stops", at consistent lengths on a tube, I have one of the old inside-beading tools. These were used to put lips on metal tubing such that a rubber tube slipped over the metal would have a point where a hose clamp could hold the rubber securely. The most easily found place to see one of these "lips" is on the outlet or inlet tube of a car radiator. These tools were popular with airplane mechanics until it was found that these joints could still leak. They are totally verboten for that application today. Mine was made by Parker Products Corporation, came in a really nice Bakelite case, and contains two mandrel holders, two tubing holders, and a selection of mandrels. It will put these beads on tubing from 1/4" to 2-1/2 " ID tubing. It works fine on large steel tubing, but for the really small tubes it should only be used on copper or brass.
That adjustable fixture plate is like the bench-top version of Abom79's shaper's "universal table". Really lovely. Even looks like it has a 3-eyed smile on the end. I totally would have drilled out the rivet from the worse-than-useless deburring thing on the back of the cutter. I was so happy when I realized the deburring tool I bought for 3d printing could also be used on copper plumbing pipe...
That is a clever idea for creating same length copper tubes. I am going to use that concept to cut some pictures pipe. The boiler is really starting to come together.
What a Tubular video! You got 100,000 cool points, LOL. Thank you for the hard work that you put into your video's. Your techniques with fixturing and machining have helped us a lot.
For that last rod, I was expecting you to make a mini pipe expander like the muffler shops use. Darn! 😁 I'm also impressed with your tubing cutter. I have two of them and they always want to start turning threads instead of going around in the same spot. Possibly General Tools is not the best place to buy a tubing cutter. Anyway that was a very neat fix for your problem.
2:00 ish - those deburring tools are AMAZING ❤❤❤ I picked up a set after watching a pervious video, they're useful in surprising places! I messed up some pcb's I designed - screwholes too small. A drill and the deburrer sorted that out quickly 😊 So thankyou Quinn for the excellent tool help! 😊❤
I'm amazed at the Precision you are putting into this boiler, all my quite free steaming boilers are unmeasured and crude with gaps everywhere and rough ends. I am using silfos 15 as my solder of choice though and it has no trouble filling gaps.
@@stuartdixon9552 it is plenty high temperature for what I am doing (I would never use it on any application above 25psi). Also all my boilers have rivets to keep the plates in place using solder as only a sealant.
Regarding Silfos 15, this brazing alloy was developed for brazing copper to copper refrigeration pipes. If you use Silfos on a copper coal fired steam boiler, the sulphur in the coal will attack the metallic grain structure in the Silfos resulting in unrepairable leaks. One unfortunate model engineer here in UK built three copper locomotive boilers under the illusion that he was saving money as Silfos is very much cheaper than silver solder. All three boilers had to be scrapped. I imagine that if the boiler is to be fired by gas, then Silfos may be OK. I personally wouldn't take the risk.
@@stuartdixon9552 thanks for the Info, This is a 2" vertical boiler mainly fired on alcohol (dry firebox) although it does have provisions for coal fireing. In all honesty this is my first boiler so I figure it won't be in operation all that long anyway.
Nice, and lucky you have a pipe cutter that makes square cuts, many do not. As a fabricator this is a common job for me and my usual setup for tubing up to 3 inch/75mm is a chop saw with a length stop setup.
I was thinking of using the live center on the lathe as a length stop, but then you’d have to use the three jaw, since your collet chuck draw bar is solid. Always fun watching you.
Loving your channel which I recently discovered. I too had a need for repeatable tube cutter and wish I'd seen this video before I came up with my indefinitely less elegant solution.
In the jewelry industry we often have to cut tubing at repeatable sizes for hinges, thus there are commercially available tubing cutting jigs. Of course, we generally make our own tubing, at about 1-1.5mm dia., and we cut the sections with a jewelers saw rather than a teeny-tiny tubing cutter.
Like anything, there's a tool for that. It used to be called T- drill. They had nibbler for notching the tube for side sockets. The drill and puller tool makes a socket. There was a dimpler to keep the tube from going in too far. Did bunches for the Seattle Mariner's ballpark a few decades ago.
I make my own ferrules for stainless wire rigging and fishing rigs. Like you I like things to look right even if there is no structural need. So a repeatable pipe cutter is just what I want. Holding small ferrules and filing them to size is a pain in the neck as is removing and measuring them multiple times. So thank you very much.
Interesting, you tie down your shutter plate with a zip tie. That's a really smart short term and long term solution. I currently have the same lathe. To hold the shutter plate back I went all in on an aluminum ring with bolting points that mimic the mounting action of the chucks for when I use my ER-40 collet chuck. You're solution is a lot less work, not just up front but also every time you deploy it. Well done!
Thank you fellow Canadian, I actually could use this. I sometimes get inaccurate cuts with my tubing cutter when the blade decides to cut spirals instead of one concentric ring. I imagine your invention could double as a guide to keep the tube in position. Well done indeed!
Once again thanks for sharing your tips and insights, and also for your humour and personality. You're one of the best and I really look forward to seeing this project completed.
Hey Internet! Here are some common questions for this video to save you commenting on it:
1) The center tube was not within “flaring” range to make it fit. I tried that and scrapped a couple parts in the process. Even if I could have, it wouldn’t have been a good joint because the diameter is then not parallel to the tube plate hole sides. The sliver solder would have had to fill a large wedge-shaped gap, which it is not good at doing.
2) Yes, I am aware that tube rolling is a thing. It’s a high-skill process requiring expensive tools though, which is why hobbyists all silver solder instead. I’m not breaking any ground here. This entire boiler is bog-standard model engineering going back a long way. I see no reason to deviate from proven practice here.
But this gives you the excuse to get all the expensive equipment to roll tubes and then flex on your peers in the hobby machinist space. Think of the real objective here!
I doubt that tube rolling (I assume you mean tube expanding) would work well with copper. In large water tube boilers, tube expanding is used, but in this case it is steel boiler tube that is specifically made for the job. Keep up the great work. I look forward to your next video.
@@BarryE48 Look up refrigeration swaging tools. They expand the tubing to fit over the same size: no coupler needed.
@@michaelboettcher6913 not to forget depending on what type of tubing it is such as "K" for Refrigeration the strength isn't marginalized by swaging it. The silver solder isn't a soldering process anyway. It's Brazing. The strength it adds makes the materials far stronger than their strengths alone.
@@michaelboettcher6913 After swaging, are the connections tight enough and no soldering required? I doubt it. I am a retired mechanical engineer and my entire career is with high pressure water tube boilers and water treatment for steam supply to power station turbines. You are talking about connecting refrigerant tubing with a fairly long swage. It is so different from expanding tubes into a thin plate. Blondi is correct in that the hobby boiler makers solder their tubes to the boiler plate. Expanding the tubes into a thin copper plate will not be a good idea.
Aaaaaaaaaaaand.....100k subscribers. Yahtzee!!
The metric part is of course the center piece of the boiler, keeping all the other tubes honest. ;-)
All the other tubes are referenced to the metric tube. 😆 Just like all imperial measurements.
The metric tube is the head honcho of the little imperial tubes. Lol
Hahaha ❤️
Quinn , your idea of the the stop on the pipe cutter is brilliant... Years ago I worked with this older English gentlemen and on our first shift together he said bring torches... I will meet you at the job . So I bring the torches in the elevator up from the basement to the shop floor. I wheel them about a half city block to the job , He looks at me and starts laughing , and said to me " Mate I should have said bring extra flash lights sorry about that " ?????
Same thing. In the 80's putting cameras into NASCARs (Racecam). We ask one of the team if we can borrow a torch - and the next minute he is wheeling over the oxy set...
(And I like the way he didn't hesitate at the thought of us attacking their lovely car with oxy)
As a European it warms my heart to see some 10mm tube in there :)
Congrats on 100k Quinn!
Yes, big milestone. Congrats Quinn !
Years from now at a yard sale someone will ask, "what is this threaded hole for"?
I lay out PCBs so mixing imperial and metric sizes is just a typical Tuesday.
Metric to the rescue
I know what you mean, even in western Europe (with pretty much just metric only countries aside from the UK), trace width is still measured in imperial mil, clearance and many other things also, trace length on the other hand is for whatever reason mm again.
@@VEC7ORlt Depends also mostly on the company.
In uni pretty much everything was metric, even something like smd resistor package dimensions, which usually are universally always imperial.
Though in jobs a lot of imperial is used yes even for trace width, just makes it easier to work with manufacturing or resource sharing outside of europe.
@@escain I dont really care tbh to use imperial on the job.
Its just required for a lot of dimensions to be in imperial (for documentation that is generated from the CAD), but the CAD does the conversion anyway.
I can type in the dimension i want for e.g trace width in metric and then it automatically converts to the closest imperial whole number, as all the DRs are imperial also (the tolerances of that are so small that its absolutely negligible and are far outweight by manufacturing tolerances).
It can be done both ways, but in the end it doesnt really matter as both are practically the same.
And new components are metric too, ensuring you cannot get even-looking traces between metric & imperial components 👍❤
"always use the unbroken side of the centerdrill" sure,if there is one
That was priceless ! lol
Came here looking for this comment 😆
Metric gang approves the slow but steady infiltration of imperial gang.
Nah, old news, their units are legally defined using metric.
@@EmyrDerfel yes, but they don't know that. :-)
Taught-to-use-both gang likes to wind up fanboys of either...
Hahah I blend 450g of flour with 1 and 1/2 cups of water, 7g of yeast and 1 and 1/2 tsp salt to bake in the oven at 450F for the first half hour followed by about an hour at 375F. YAY to being a Canadian :D
That would be nearly an 80% hydration dough.... what on earth are you making that takes an hour to bake? :-)
@@sjenkins1057 Rustic breads are high hydration. I've made some rye breads that have been higher but I am not as good at them. (and just as an edit note, my daughter was born allergic to tomatoes, I had to make her pizza special for her at a time when non-red pizzas just were not a thing, made a lot of leave it and let it be dough's over the course of her childhood).
that repeatable tubing cutter is definitely something ill have to keep in the back of my brain for later. i feel like it will come in handy someday.
Always use the non-broken end of the center drill 😂😂😂 love it
that tilting fixture plate is gorgeous
You know, reading through the comments, the people on here are pretty good. Thanks for the video and the community. :)
Most of my viewers are awesome. The rest get moderated. 😬
Loved the pro tip on using the unbroken end of the center drill. That should make my next project go a lot better😂 Enjoyed the video.
I just noticed.... Congrats on 100k subscribers!
That was exceptionally cool. Thanks for this series. Mechanical Engineer that understands all of this but fearful of buying expensive equipment that is possible but realistically not in the budget. Maybe one day. Bucket list thing you know?
And by the way WTF is a kW? Us North America engineers South of the land of Canadia use BTUs. Inches, BTUs, foot-pounds, horsepower, all things we understand. What the hell is a dyne? Lol
OK sorry BTU::Joule as kW ::BTUH.
Congrats on the 100k subs, hopefully it will be repeatable.
26 tubes is a lot of tubes, I am just glad I did not build the boiler that was on my ship when I was in the Navy,
it had 1500 small 3/4 inch tubes and over 100 2 inch tubes to protect the smaller tube. And it had several larger tubes, I think were 6 inches or bigger. If you are curious, look up modified D type boiler. All boiler techs were eliminated in the 1990s. My boiler was a 600 PSI boiler. I know some were tiny at 1200 psi both were for main propulsion, there were others were 25 psi mainly for heat, cooking, laundry, distilling water for drinking and fresh water for the boiler.
Thank you keep making me smile, I enjoy your videos very much. Lee
METRIC size tubing!?! (imperial fistshake)
Farklebutt!
You know that you will have to use a stick of Whitworth sodder on that.
And 100,000 is reached. Yay!
Thanks, and Meow back at Sprocket.
Great video and I enjoy your sense of humor. Come on now you know we need more t-nut videos, like Will Ferrell said “we need more cow bell.
That was a sweet recovery at the end, and you turned it into a great teaching opportunity. Beautifully done, as always. Thanks Blondihacks
Drilled and tapped 1/2-13 hole in headstock of lathe and threaded 5/8 CRS roundstock with 1/2 threads on end, into it. Made a bar with reamed 5/8 hole from 1/2 flatstock, slotsawed hole, tapped slot 10-24 for SHCS as a clamp and used that as a flip up stop with split collar on the 5/8 roundstock for repeatability for a parting tool. Works pretty good. Even better with a travel indicator. So sorta kinda like what you did Quinn. I like your idea.
Further to the “Leicester” conundrum, In the UK we also have places such as Worcester (Wuster), Gloucester (Glosster) and areas in Coventry called Stivichall (Sty chall) and Cheylesmore (Charles more).
Good work on the boiler, thanks for the posts, always entertaining!
The list goes on: we have Loughborough (Luffburra), Bicester (Bister) and we pronounce Lieutenant Leftenant. It's a great language (langwidge) :-)
And of course the perennial elephant in the workshop - aluminium.
It's just a shame I find 'sodder' to be such an unpleasant sounding word when compared to 'solder'... :(
Frome… froom
Solder, Leicester , Worcester , all quite obvious, however Leominster ? Come on.
G’day Quinn. Tube cutter with depth stop, now that’s novel, well done.
Cheers
Peter
Another Awesome and Entertaining video. Your sense of humor is great.
I now have my Wife watching machinists videos.
Thank You!
Congratulations on 100k subscribers.
There's always one in the crowd, eh? I was thinking that you might anneal and expand the two ends of a regular size tube. But the 10mm works just fine too. And makes for a better story! And as well congrats on hitting the 100K subscribers.
That was plan B, but since it was easy to get a 10mm tube, I felt better about that
Look, all metric, even the number of subscribers!
Hmm. 10mm is a regular (one assumes you mean "standard") size.
Oohhhh that tilting table!!! I'm drooling!!
And Congrats on 100k sub's!!
Every night, we metric guys go to bed sound in the knowledge all is well. Cheers Blondi, that was a simple yet effective fixture.
Give me a lil chuckle every time I see one of your videos automatically pay on my home page and it say welcome to bloody hacks on the closed captioning..... keep up the great work Quinn!
Now that there is a threaded hole in your tubing cutter, mount it to the cross slide on the lathe =)
I was thinking the exact same thing……
It is a shame one does not have an option to put an exclamation point after the thumbs up symbol! I also like your humor and your very good teaching ability! A question please. What would be a good way to keep a Sherline motor from overheating on very long runs so it doesn't cause itself to protectively shutdown. Also to extend the motor's bearings life. Thank you.
Hello Quinn,
Good video today and also congratulations on getting to 100k subscribers...See you next week.
Take care.
Paul,,
@09:18 Oh, that is a WONDERFUL tip! I dearly hope I can remember it because I have at least one center drill that looks like that.
Great presentation, G̶r̶i̶n̶n̶ Quinn; looking forward to the next steps!
Never stop making content.
Lance grinds some really nice stones. I am really happy with mine.
That fixture plate is fucking AWESOME.
When I worked for a company building gas trays for semiconductor equipment. We modified the same type tubing cutter to fit one of the lathe tool holders. Clamped the SST tube in the 3 jaw chuck, moved the carriage to the length needed and made the cut.
If you would have been my teacher at school, I would have a doctorate in everything, even sence of humor. I love your videos and channel subject. Oh yes, we also have a very large mix of units in every thing we do. Thank you.
One of the things I appreciate about your videos is that you give a sense of touch involved. For instance, the way you address the work with a file. Nice. Thank you.
I made a cutter like that 20 years ago and still have it in my SPECIAL TOOLBOX
Haha I had been wincing slightly every time you said 'sodder' but you're right, there are no innocent parties here 😄
One thing I often say, to wind up American friends, is that there is only the Queen's English; anything else is wrong. It generally gets a bite.
I love the fact that this language we share is a complete mongrel and is a living and evolving thing. Makes for many fun interactions :)
Congratulations on 100k
I ran boilers for a job years ago so I am finding this build interesting
The little devil and mixed measuring systems made my day. I love both systems because it gives me an excuse to own MORE TOOLS!!
I'm betting the steam can work it all out just fine.
Nice work as usual, Quinn!
Genius cutter, I love your cense of humor, nice work.
Thankfully one metric tube. Now i can sleep peacefully…. Greetings from the Netherlands!
Willem. Is that a new SI unit? 1 metric tube?
100 K subscribers, congrats!
Really envious of your angular fixture plate. Been looking for one for a while. Back to the 'making one' plan I guess...
Slick tool build!
Could make the brass stop part a disc with a radius same as max tubing cutter opening, threaded hole in the middle, stop nut as now, making it universally adjustable and capable of working with any size tubing the cutter can fit.
Beautiful positioning table there. The best I could ever do was a locking tilt-vise.
For making precisely placed "stops", at consistent lengths on a tube, I have one of the old inside-beading tools. These were used to put lips on metal tubing such that a rubber tube slipped over the metal would have a point where a hose clamp could hold the rubber securely.
The most easily found place to see one of these "lips" is on the outlet or inlet tube of a car radiator.
These tools were popular with airplane mechanics until it was found that these joints could still leak. They are totally verboten for that application today.
Mine was made by Parker Products Corporation, came in a really nice Bakelite case, and contains two mandrel holders, two tubing holders, and a selection of mandrels. It will put these beads on tubing from 1/4" to 2-1/2 " ID tubing.
It works fine on large steel tubing, but for the really small tubes it should only be used on copper or brass.
3:35 - ouch, burn! (and lots and lots of love!)
I hope we get to see you solder those tubes onto the boiler.
That adjustable fixture plate is like the bench-top version of Abom79's shaper's "universal table". Really lovely. Even looks like it has a 3-eyed smile on the end.
I totally would have drilled out the rivet from the worse-than-useless deburring thing on the back of the cutter. I was so happy when I realized the deburring tool I bought for 3d printing could also be used on copper plumbing pipe...
Thanks Quinn Great video
That is a clever idea for creating same length copper tubes. I am going to use that concept to cut some pictures pipe. The boiler is really starting to come together.
What a Tubular video! You got 100,000 cool points, LOL. Thank you for the hard work that you put into your video's. Your techniques with fixturing and machining have helped us a lot.
For that last rod, I was expecting you to make a mini pipe expander like the muffler shops use. Darn! 😁
I'm also impressed with your tubing cutter. I have two of them and they always want to start turning threads instead of going around in the same spot. Possibly General Tools is not the best place to buy a tubing cutter.
Anyway that was a very neat fix for your problem.
2:00 ish - those deburring tools are AMAZING ❤❤❤
I picked up a set after watching a pervious video, they're useful in surprising places!
I messed up some pcb's I designed - screwholes too small. A drill and the deburrer sorted that out quickly 😊
So thankyou Quinn for the excellent tool help! 😊❤
1/4 20 the bestest of all us bolt sizes. Metric is dumb. Great video, thanks for the awesome channel .
I think I like these kind of video's even more than the more regular ones, I'm weird yes. :) I just love tool making and you thinking of this.
Fair comment regarding the sodder solder thing.🙂
3:34 - Touché, Quinn.
Always good to watch Quinn.👍👍
So impressed with your ability to solve problems as they crop up. Very impressive. Thanks, Quinn
I heard "giving the knob a little snog" and nearly chocked on my tea!
I'm amazed at the Precision you are putting into this boiler, all my quite free steaming boilers are unmeasured and crude with gaps everywhere and rough ends. I am using silfos 15 as my solder of choice though and it has no trouble filling gaps.
I certainly won’t claim all this precision is necessary 😁 I just enjoy the process
Never EVER use Silfos brazing rods on steam boilers.
@@stuartdixon9552 it is plenty high temperature for what I am doing (I would never use it on any application above 25psi). Also all my boilers have rivets to keep the plates in place using solder as only a sealant.
Regarding Silfos 15, this brazing alloy was developed for brazing copper to copper refrigeration pipes. If you use Silfos on a copper coal fired steam boiler, the sulphur in the coal will attack the metallic grain structure in the Silfos resulting in unrepairable leaks. One unfortunate model engineer here in UK built three copper locomotive boilers under the illusion that he was saving money as Silfos is very much cheaper than silver solder. All three boilers had to be scrapped. I imagine that if the boiler is to be fired by gas, then Silfos may be OK. I personally wouldn't take the risk.
@@stuartdixon9552 thanks for the Info, This is a 2" vertical boiler mainly fired on alcohol (dry firebox) although it does have provisions for coal fireing. In all honesty this is my first boiler so I figure it won't be in operation all that long anyway.
I once made a repeatable cutter for plastic tubing using some wood, machine screws, and an xacto blade.
Nice, and lucky you have a pipe cutter that makes square cuts, many do not. As a fabricator this is a common job for me and my usual setup for tubing up to 3 inch/75mm is a chop saw with a length stop setup.
Your new tool can also work for a shotgun condenser or other prefabricated parts! I might have to watch this again 🤔
I love that vise you were gifted. And cracked up with the metric tube in the middle. Good fixture for cutting the tubing.
Woah Nelly! 100K subs! Congrats, Quinn!
I was thinking of using the live center on the lathe as a length stop, but then you’d have to use the three jaw, since your collet chuck draw bar is solid. Always fun watching you.
Loving your channel which I recently discovered. I too had a need for repeatable tube cutter and wish I'd seen this video before I came up with my indefinitely less elegant solution.
You could always bundle any multiple long sticks and carbide blade, table saw skill saw cut them then deburr.
Quinn, remember necessity is the mother of invention! and in most of your videos you prove it!!
cant wait to see the solder part!!
In the jewelry industry we often have to cut tubing at repeatable sizes for hinges, thus there are commercially available tubing cutting jigs. Of course, we generally make our own tubing, at about 1-1.5mm dia., and we cut the sections with a jewelers saw rather than a teeny-tiny tubing cutter.
Great project and as always you are an impressive dsigner/machinist.
That odd duck tube eh :P Nice work! Love the series.
Like anything, there's a tool for that.
It used to be called T- drill. They had nibbler for notching the tube for side sockets. The drill and puller tool makes a socket. There was a dimpler to keep the tube from going in too far. Did bunches for the Seattle Mariner's ballpark a few decades ago.
Nice save on the oversize/drawn hole. More extra stuff layin' around after the job's finished ;-)
I make my own ferrules for stainless wire rigging and fishing rigs. Like you I like things to look right even if there is no structural need. So a repeatable pipe cutter is just what I want. Holding small ferrules and filing them to size is a pain in the neck as is removing and measuring them multiple times. So thank you very much.
just mesmerized by how you operate the little puffy puf puffer to blow away the chips. 😵
Interesting, you tie down your shutter plate with a zip tie. That's a really smart short term and long term solution. I currently have the same lathe. To hold the shutter plate back I went all in on an aluminum ring with bolting points that mimic the mounting action of the chucks for when I use my ER-40 collet chuck. You're solution is a lot less work, not just up front but also every time you deploy it. Well done!
Sick solder burn!
This was hella slick!
Note to future Quinn. Modify collet chuck for collet stop!
The best kind of tool/tool mod is the once you can't explain
One metric tube ... to rule them all!
Love the metric tube the most ! :)
Thank you fellow Canadian, I actually could use this. I sometimes get inaccurate cuts with my tubing cutter when the blade decides to cut spirals instead of one concentric ring. I imagine your invention could double as a guide to keep the tube in position. Well done indeed!
Mixing metric and imperial is good. I really like your solution to making those tubes. Simple, elegant and effective.
100K YAY!
"Gütentight."
I see you have been taught the German torque. Just be wary of Russian torque, aka "brokenov."
or kaputtski... even worse...
The British is Armstrong.
prety sure the american is
"click. tight enough"
Fits like sox on a rooster.
@@michaelvangundy226 ah but you also have another British phrase "Nirrynuff"
If you have the wall thickness you could spiral flute the fire tubes to increase surface area quite a bit
Once again thanks for sharing your tips and insights, and also for your humour and personality. You're one of the best and I really look forward to seeing this project completed.
You know it's gonna be good when the video starts out with farklebutt