Changing from the bigger to the smaller openings in the ceramic increased the pressure drop across the ceramic which leads to better distribution of flow across the surface. Something else you can add is a fine mesh stainless steel screen to act as the pressure drop. That will further improve the flow distribution and likely allow use of the more common larger size ceramic. This is a trick we use in small wind tunnels for combustion experiments that fly on the ISS. Nice job on the burner development too. As mentioned in another comment, a jack screw on the burner nozzle would make life easier to tune it.
This made me think of BBQ burners. The wall thickness is usually thin. Could the thickness of the ceramic influence the numbers of little blue cones being produced?
@@davidtaylor6124 In this case below the ceramic on the cool side. In the flow tunnel the screen is usually down stream of the flow straightener which is very similar to the ceramic used in the burner. The air flow quality is very important to the researchers.
@@repairtech9320 I don't know about the number, but the per cent open area will cause velocity changes from one side to the ceramic and again coming back out. It gets messy and is also dependent on the average velocity too. The ceramic will act like a flow straightener if the flow is low enough. Laminar flow is probably your friend here. None of the researchers have used a burner like this so don't have direct experience with it. I'd have to say thin walls are desirable.
We enjoy everything about your videos, Quinn, with one exception. It’s the endings. They come too soon. Your clear-headed lucidity is appropriated. Cheers!
Wow such beautiful made parts. As an aside, I never thought I'd get the opportunity to spend time with you in a darkened room, lit only by a flickering flame.
The handheld bandsaw is officially the most dangerous tool in my workshop. I know this because I've been injured by it more than any other tool ever. I cut myself to the bone twice in a month *ON THE SAME FINGER IN EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE*. I was being *extra* careful in making sure that my cut was going to go straight, and in doing so, I held the trigger handle in one hand and the top wheel of the bandsaw in the other hand... And, without letting go of the top wheel, I squeezed the trigger. Twice. In the same month. Which *really* impressed the emergency room people, who were, of course, the same people both times.
I loved this so much ... that you used the imperative and not the indicative - I'm really tired of people saying "I did this" and I like when people say "this is how you can do this".
Copper is soft enough that tools with positive rake will dig in (as you found). It works better with a couple degrees of negative rake. That makes the tool want to push out of the metal instead of digging in. And for the sake of trivia, old shop manuals suggest using milk as a cutting lubricant.
I'm a big railway fan, so I definetly like the steam engine. I like model railway setups and machining. Also like electronic projects and CB Radio & Ham Radio stuff.
Very nicely done as usual. Yeah, well, you know. It turned out well...in the end. And I loved the "Which is how I planned it all along. SHUT UP!" Still chuckling about that. Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Yup, I didn't look everywhere for the burner I asked for a link for in the other upright boiler video, but I found it now, the ones on line were too high for my liking, but I'm good now, thanks, I'll make my own too. I love your projects, they suit me just fine. I like building Steam engines and also boilers and Stirling engines.. I have a few mini ones and made a hot air or flame licker that works, I have two other engines and a boiler on the go also. Keep on having fun, Best regards John.
I wonder if your neighbours are curious about why you were out back painting a weird little saucepan 😄 But seriously though thank you for the wit and the wisdom and for making the internet a nice place to be.
BBQ paint is the only paint I found that consistently adheres to aluminum (once cleaned, of course). And remember what Jeff Foxworthy says, "When you really care, say it with Krylon." Rustoleum is only for losers.
Blondie try adding a sleeve that will slide around the holes in the mixer. That way you can leave the orifice in one position and add or limit air to the flame.
Welcome to burner design. I made a living for 40 years designing burners. I’m not a fan of premix burners but they do work well on small sizes like yours and can be finicky but can also be a bomb in larger sizes. Being a machinist a nozzle mix burner would be a good project (think of your propane torch) it would also fit well in conventional fire tube boiler design that needs a long cylindrical flame.
to improve the heating ,add a fence around the burner ,1/2 " above the ceramic top, this well help the heating ,and the blue flame turns to hot orange.
Hi Quinn. Really nice Job and beautiful flames. Turning copper’ I have very good results using Milk as. Lube. Works great reduces dog In. Of tool. Cheers To Guy Lautard. For the original idea.
Wow, love the homemade gas fittings onto the small pin valve of the butane tank. Normally you'd use swagelok fittings, which are fantastic for all kinds of gas fittings. I've hooked up methane, hydrogen, helium, compressed air and nitrogen using those setups. The ferrule is a two piece compression fitting which seals gas tight. Cool to see the fittings made by hand.
Basically the gas jet you are making is the same thing used with foundry for melting metal. Adjusting the jet in/out decreases/increases the air flow to create a hotter flame.
I've long been intrigued by what goes into making a safe burner. While this certainly doesn't teach me everything I might wish to know, it does give me a lot more information than I once had, and makes the idea of researching this feel a lot more approachable. Thanks, Quinn!
It seems to me that the venturi effect is so strong it is hitting the side of the copper end cap and that is why that area has bigger cones then the rest. I noticed when you put in the copper wool you didn't do it in the stainless spring, so it made the effect even worse. I would try stuffing that stainless spring with the copper wool to try and slow the jet down which sure make the blue jets more even. Another thought was angle the brass jet holder so that it swirls around the copper end cap sides (maybe 75 degrees?) With all the gas swirling around on the inside it should also be more even, but of course that would require you to remake this
Nice work! Rio Grande is like a small tool and widget playground. It's dangerous, in a good way, even walking into the place. I've definitely left with things I didn't know I needed when I walked in.
Neat trick on this design! For larger burners I've done ribbon burners with crayons to get the right hole size and spacing but I never thought to try a fixturing plate for a small one. In retrospect that makes perfect sense.
Doing things is great……. showing the steps as the experiments progress shows the difficulties you had. This means the rest of us don’t reinvent the wheel and waste time, effort and materials to get to the same point. Thanks from me and I would think a lot of others too. Amacf
Good information! Going to switch to this type of burner for my steam boat, Sterno doesn't last very long and it's awkward to fine tune, besides being messy.
Hi Quinn Thanks for this I need a burner soon for my vertical boiler. Good the see your machinist clamps in action. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge.
how about a side mount thumb screw for adjusting the flame. not sure how to do the quick operation for the quick flame start. maybe a flip lift stop pin or stop arm on the design to catch the the side of the adjustable screw. something on the lines of an ink pen spring load, push it in and the arm lifts and then pull back to the stop and the available for flame adjusting.. Just a thought.. I do enjoy learning things from you as I am a home hobbyist machinist so Thankx!
"Which was definitely 100% my plan all along - shutup". brilliant!! really made me laugh :). Love your videos and your calm clear teaching style, thank you from the UK, Cheers!
Hi folks. BA threads were developed for instrument making - including airplane items and are based on an even older Swiss Thury thread. The thread profile was originally chosen with a view to providing a robust fixing in thin metal panels. The thread pitch is based on metric and goes up in a geometrical progression. Now largely used here in model making of course. Taps and dies are readily available over here but it is the even number thread sizes that are most often used.
Plus 5 BA... It would be too easy to only have to buy the even ones! Then there is the question of the hex sizes... Small head for appearance, but only for the bolts and it varies a little by source and batch.
Hi. I love watching your videos you've taught me so much over these past few years. I have no experience with gas jets but I was wondering if you extended the inlet tube to just past the middle of the frying pan and blank the end off but have a hole drilled underneath so the hole is in the middle. Hopefully this might distribute the gas more evenly starting from a central point. Also with the hole pointing down it may start to swirl as it's deflected by the pan base. It could be done as a push fit to start with as this would give the option for removal to experiment with additional holes and length of tube. It's just food for thought. Please keep doing what you do. Kindest regards. Steve
I just got a ceramic soldering plate/fixture form amazon and it had the smaller holes in it. its about 4x6 inches rectangle but but could be cut to size and made into burner. i think i'll give it a try. probably do a small square burner. thanks for all your work and videos. Big fan.
Hi Quinn, haven't been down all the comments but the ceramics used in the book are cut down sections of ceramic panel burners from Calor gas heaters ( in the UK ) model engineers being adaptable people discovered this.They are either taken from scrap heaters or bought as spare parts. The panels are about 2" x 4", easily cut to size and unlike the jewellery pads have fewer (round) holes across the surface area and a spikey surface rather than flat which gives you those spikey blue flames you're looking for.
Have a feeling when you get the boiler on top, it will help your burner as well. Its currently pulling air up from all sides since its out in the open. Being in the burn chamber will affect the burn as well.
Scoop the parting tool Quinn! It may need sharpening more frequently but the lower cutting pressure will save your bacon more often than not. Keep it up!
Ps. You can solve some flux in water. Then dip the part in. The solder will only float hover the flux was. Can be used fx. A tube : dip the end 1 mm and you will have 1 mm solder.
I guess ceramic gas burners weren't as popular in the US as they were in the UK. Hardly used in the UK now, but spares are available on Ebay. "Schwank 14/4 Ef Ceramic Burner Tile" is available from a US seller, not sure how tricky it would be to cut to fit and make gas tight though or what the quality is like.
Maybe already suggested by someone else, but you could support the copper cup with a big puck of material pressed against the bottom of the cup by a life center.
If you need tools for poking solder into place, try titanium. Solder doesn't stick to it, or at least the solder I use for silver jewelry doesn't. A bit more expensive than just using a random metal rod, and I don't know how available it is in sizes you might need, but it's convenient. Love these videos, and though you aren't likely to need me to tell you, do keep them coming!
Just a thought, pack the sprint with copper wool to defuse the fuel stream, but also use both combination of large holed and small holes jewelers plate to bump up the velocity of the gas right before the cone of the jet is formed.
Inexpensive jeweler's titanium solder picks would be better than the stainless because titanium is horrible at transmitting heat. That means that it doesn't suck heat out of the solder joint and that even with the tip of the solder pick in the flame and glowing, it's comfortable to hold the pick a short length away. Also solder doesn't want to stick to titanium. We melt little balls of solder, pick up the molten balls with the pick and set them in place strategically.
Did you think of covering the air holes to make it easier to light? Back in school we used to just hold fingers over the similar air holes on Bunsen burners to light them
Keep it simple, change the jet, it's easier then changing ceramic matrix or burner volume. A good stoichiometric ratio for the volume methinks... Nice video so informative plus entering 👍
In case it has not already been mentioned, when forming/smoothing uncured silicone put some saliva on your finger first. Stops the silicone sticking to your finger, makes it easier to work, and gives a better finish. Haven't used the high temp silicone, so might not work for that.
Interesting. And here I would have guessed what you were going for is what you call, under burning, where the ceramic is glowing. Kind of like those catalytic propane heaters. I have two of them. One smaller with a single grid, and one bigger with 2 ceramic grids. When you first light them it's a nice blue flame, but as it warms up the ceramic starts glowing orange and radiates a whole lot more heat. They must be made of a different type of ceramic I'm guessing.
OK the ceramic used is from a household portable gas fire the ones that have a gas bottle in the back. The ceramic is designed to burn gas. Your holes are to big for the size jet your using. We grab the scrap One's from the scrap yards. However they are getting increasingly harder to get. By the way I live in the UK. Hope this helps.
Ooh thanks for doing this I’ve added his book to my Xmas list 😀 with your end cap a decent sized bit of stock faced each end and centre drilled would have worked better than the wooden stick. Use your live centre to apply pressure. Not always possible but not drilling all the way through provides a positive stop for your copper pipe and tends to stoop plugging. I liked your use of the jewellery fixture plate might have to get one 😀
i wonder how different the geometry of that gas nozzle is from common (and inexpensive - 10 pack for $5) brass 3D printer extruder nozzles? .2mm and .3mm are both "standard" sizes.
There are 0.3 mm PCB drills, but I've never been able to keep them running true enough - a drill chuck with 0.1 mm runout is now wobbling by 1/3 of the drill diameter and carbide doesn't like that. It is also difficult to center the tailstock well enough, especially on an older lathe.
Being even less than a novice, could the jet be installed at a sharp angle instead of strait in? The gas hitting the inside edge of the burner wall could cause it to swirl around the inside.
Changing from the bigger to the smaller openings in the ceramic increased the pressure drop across the ceramic which leads to better distribution of flow across the surface. Something else you can add is a fine mesh stainless steel screen to act as the pressure drop. That will further improve the flow distribution and likely allow use of the more common larger size ceramic. This is a trick we use in small wind tunnels for combustion experiments that fly on the ISS. Nice job on the burner development too. As mentioned in another comment, a jack screw on the burner nozzle would make life easier to tune it.
Where does the second stainless mesh go? Above or below the ceramic?
This is about the coolest comment I’ve ever read. Thanks for sharing ISS lore!
This made me think of BBQ burners. The wall thickness is usually thin. Could the thickness of the ceramic influence the numbers of little blue cones being produced?
@@davidtaylor6124 In this case below the ceramic on the cool side. In the flow tunnel the screen is usually down stream of the flow straightener which is very similar to the ceramic used in the burner. The air flow quality is very important to the researchers.
@@repairtech9320 I don't know about the number, but the per cent open area will cause velocity changes from one side to the ceramic and again coming back out. It gets messy and is also dependent on the average velocity too. The ceramic will act like a flow straightener if the flow is low enough. Laminar flow is probably your friend here. None of the researchers have used a burner like this so don't have direct experience with it. I'd have to say thin walls are desirable.
We enjoy everything about your videos, Quinn, with one exception. It’s the endings. They come too soon. Your clear-headed lucidity is appropriated. Cheers!
"my plan all along shut up" LOL seriously never change another good video!
Them braising skills are improving in jumps n bounds. Those are some smooth joints.
Love the comments right before and after things go south
Wow such beautiful made parts. As an aside, I never thought I'd get the opportunity to spend time with you in a darkened room, lit only by a flickering flame.
The handheld bandsaw is officially the most dangerous tool in my workshop. I know this because I've been injured by it more than any other tool ever. I cut myself to the bone twice in a month *ON THE SAME FINGER IN EXACTLY THE SAME PLACE*. I was being *extra* careful in making sure that my cut was going to go straight, and in doing so, I held the trigger handle in one hand and the top wheel of the bandsaw in the other hand... And, without letting go of the top wheel, I squeezed the trigger.
Twice.
In the same month.
Which *really* impressed the emergency room people, who were, of course, the same people both times.
If you find your attention is divided, that's a red flag. I too learned this the hard way, still have the scars.
Maybe next time cut it off all the way so you can't hurt it anymore in the future
Quinn, you're on fire in this episode.
I see what you did there. 😬
2:00 My first belly laugh of the day. Thank you!
I loved this so much ... that you used the imperative and not the indicative - I'm really tired of people saying "I did this" and I like when people say "this is how you can do this".
I genuinely held my breath during the "facing down the edge" scene...
Copper is soft enough that tools with positive rake will dig in (as you found). It works better with a couple degrees of negative rake. That makes the tool want to push out of the metal instead of digging in. And for the sake of trivia, old shop manuals suggest using milk as a cutting lubricant.
I'm a big railway fan, so I definetly like the steam engine. I like model railway setups and machining. Also like electronic projects and CB Radio & Ham Radio stuff.
Your soft voice luling me into a nap. Thankyou
Entertained and educated. Much obliged!
Very nicely done as usual.
Yeah, well, you know. It turned out well...in the end.
And I loved the "Which is how I planned it all along. SHUT UP!"
Still chuckling about that.
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
One of the best how-to I have seen. Kudos to you.
Glad I came across this channel 😁 great stuff!
Hearing you talk about propane and butane reminds me of the mnemonic: Model Engineers Prefer Blondihacks.
I know it's going to be a great video when Sprockets is in the opening! 😻
Yup, I didn't look everywhere for the burner I asked for a link for in the other upright boiler video, but I found it now, the ones on line were too high for my liking, but I'm good now, thanks, I'll make my own too. I love your projects, they suit me just fine. I like building Steam engines and also boilers and Stirling engines.. I have a few mini ones and made a hot air or flame licker that works, I have two other engines and a boiler on the go also. Keep on having fun, Best regards John.
I wonder if your neighbours are curious about why you were out back painting a weird little saucepan 😄
But seriously though thank you for the wit and the wisdom and for making the internet a nice place to be.
They'd just see the spay can and realize she's making a tiny BBQ.
BBQ paint is the only paint I found that consistently adheres to aluminum (once cleaned, of course). And remember what Jeff Foxworthy says, "When you really care, say it with Krylon." Rustoleum is only for losers.
Blondie try adding a sleeve that will slide around the holes in the mixer. That way you can leave the orifice in one position and add or limit air to the flame.
Gas jets. When I built my propane forge I used a 0.030mig tip and it worked like a charm
Welcome to burner design. I made a living for 40 years designing burners. I’m not a fan of premix burners but they do work well on small sizes like yours and can be finicky but can also be a bomb in larger sizes. Being a machinist a nozzle mix burner would be a good project (think of your propane torch) it would also fit well in conventional fire tube boiler design that needs a long cylindrical flame.
That thread checker is super cool
Link to it is in the description! 😁
@@Blondihacks Just ordered one :D
to improve the heating ,add a fence around the burner ,1/2 " above the ceramic top, this well help the heating ,and the blue flame turns to hot orange.
Great video. You are quickly becoming an expert boiler maker.
Thanks for all the good videos you shared last year. Looking forward to next year, happy holidays
That was fun. Great video
You could add a round disk of screen under the ceramic disk.
Even multiple layers, I've seen this in industrial applications.
The vice that goes in a vice ... is it called a Chris Nolan vice?
You are an excellent teacher!!!!
Thanks Quinn, very enjoyable!
Hi Quinn. Really nice Job and beautiful flames. Turning copper’ I have very good results using Milk as. Lube. Works great reduces dog In. Of tool. Cheers To Guy Lautard. For the original idea.
Thanks Quinn
Well done.. loved all the detail work on the nut..
Looking forward to seeing the steam turned into Motive Power. Can't wait to watch you fire the boiler up for the first time
Wow, love the homemade gas fittings onto the small pin valve of the butane tank. Normally you'd use swagelok fittings, which are fantastic for all kinds of gas fittings. I've hooked up methane, hydrogen, helium, compressed air and nitrogen using those setups. The ferrule is a two piece compression fitting which seals gas tight. Cool to see the fittings made by hand.
Basically the gas jet you are making is the same thing used with foundry for melting metal. Adjusting the jet in/out decreases/increases the air flow to create a hotter flame.
I've long been intrigued by what goes into making a safe burner. While this certainly doesn't teach me everything I might wish to know, it does give me a lot more information than I once had, and makes the idea of researching this feel a lot more approachable. Thanks, Quinn!
Love this project, it's awesome.
RE: Bolts & Screws : A screw goes into your material, a bolt goes into a nut 🙂
I think you’ll find no two people in this world agree on those definitions 😉
@@Blondihacks I must admit to posting that with some mischievousness 😁
"... definitely 100% my plan all along shut up." You crack me up! XD
It seems to me that the venturi effect is so strong it is hitting the side of the copper end cap and that is why that area has bigger cones then the rest. I noticed when you put in the copper wool you didn't do it in the stainless spring, so it made the effect even worse. I would try stuffing that stainless spring with the copper wool to try and slow the jet down which sure make the blue jets more even. Another thought was angle the brass jet holder so that it swirls around the copper end cap sides (maybe 75 degrees?) With all the gas swirling around on the inside it should also be more even, but of course that would require you to remake this
Or some vanes? Added part, no need to remake anything.
This sounds like pretty much ever DIY forge that I've seen, they all have the gas going in at an angle.
Great job Quinn.👍👍
To smooth silicone sealant you can use the moist surface of a cut potato. Works wonderfully
Can't wait to see this thing run! Great job! ❤️
Nice work! Rio Grande is like a small tool and widget playground. It's dangerous, in a good way, even walking into the place. I've definitely left with things I didn't know I needed when I walked in.
Neat trick on this design! For larger burners I've done ribbon burners with crayons to get the right hole size and spacing but I never thought to try a fixturing plate for a small one. In retrospect that makes perfect sense.
Doing things is great……. showing the steps as the experiments progress shows the difficulties you had. This means the rest of us don’t reinvent the wheel and waste time, effort and materials to get to the same point. Thanks from me and I would think a lot of others too. Amacf
Thankyou👍
Good information! Going to switch to this type of burner for my steam boat, Sterno doesn't last very long and it's awkward to fine tune, besides being messy.
Pretty interesting build Quinn and a lot of challenges to scale, but it looks like it will perform well. Enjoyed, cheers!
Way to go Blondie !🎯
Hi Quinn Thanks for this I need a burner soon for my vertical boiler. Good the see your machinist clamps in action. Thanks for sharing all the knowledge.
BA is also used in Brazil for gas.
Don't listen to the haters. Love your channel and content.👍😎 I've learned a lot from you. Keep up the good work 😁👍
how about a side mount thumb screw for adjusting the flame. not sure how to do the quick operation for the quick flame start. maybe a flip lift stop pin or stop arm on the design to catch the the side of the adjustable screw. something on the lines of an ink pen spring load, push it in and the arm lifts and then pull back to the stop and the available for flame adjusting.. Just a thought.. I do enjoy learning things from you as I am a home hobbyist machinist so Thankx!
"Which was definitely 100% my plan all along - shutup". brilliant!! really made me laugh :). Love your videos and your calm clear teaching style, thank you from the UK, Cheers!
Hi folks. BA threads were developed for instrument making - including airplane items and are based on an even older Swiss Thury thread. The thread profile was originally chosen with a view to providing a robust fixing in thin metal panels. The thread pitch is based on metric and goes up in a geometrical progression. Now largely used here in model making of course. Taps and dies are readily available over here but it is the even number thread sizes that are most often used.
Plus 5 BA... It would be too easy to only have to buy the even ones! Then there is the question of the hex sizes... Small head for appearance, but only for the bolts and it varies a little by source and batch.
@David Taylor I have been told the Old British Telecom used the odd numbers.
Apparently nobody wanted to steal odd BA numbered fasteners.
Hi. I love watching your videos you've taught me so much over these past few years. I have no experience with gas jets but I was wondering if you extended the inlet tube to just past the middle of the frying pan and blank the end off but have a hole drilled underneath so the hole is in the middle. Hopefully this might distribute the gas more evenly starting from a central point. Also with the hole pointing down it may start to swirl as it's deflected by the pan base. It could be done as a push fit to start with as this would give the option for removal to experiment with additional holes and length of tube. It's just food for thought. Please keep doing what you do. Kindest regards. Steve
I just got a ceramic soldering plate/fixture form amazon and it had the smaller holes in it. its about 4x6 inches rectangle but but could be cut to size and made into burner. i think i'll give it a try. probably do a small square burner. thanks for all your work and videos.
Big fan.
I like the part of using Liquid Paper as a resist. Bette Nesmith would be proud.
Hi Quinn, haven't been down all the comments but the ceramics used in the book are cut down sections of ceramic panel burners from Calor gas heaters ( in the UK ) model engineers being adaptable people discovered this.They are either taken from scrap heaters or bought as spare parts. The panels are about 2" x 4", easily cut to size and unlike the jewellery pads have fewer (round) holes across the surface area and a spikey surface rather than flat which gives you those spikey blue flames you're looking for.
Alex Weiss specifically says he’s using jewellery fixture plates in the book.
Have a feeling when you get the boiler on top, it will help your burner as well. Its currently pulling air up from all sides since its out in the open. Being in the burn chamber will affect the burn as well.
Scoop the parting tool Quinn! It may need sharpening more frequently but the lower cutting pressure will save your bacon more often than not. Keep it up!
11:38, I have drill 0.1 mm wide, and up to 1 mm in steps of 0.1 mm (0.1, 0.2, 0.3....). That drill is very brittle, carbon steel.
Second ceramic burner looks much more efficient. Great work, as always, Quinn. It's a gas watching your videos. :)
Nice job. That set-up would drive me nuts, though. I'd have to build some sort of carburetor with screw adjustments.
Sprocket is SOO Judgemental... Time for Quinn to upgrade to a Shop Dog.
Ps. You can solve some flux in water. Then dip the part in. The solder will only float hover the flux was. Can be used fx. A tube : dip the end 1 mm and you will have 1 mm solder.
I guess ceramic gas burners weren't as popular in the US as they were in the UK. Hardly used in the UK now, but spares are available on Ebay.
"Schwank 14/4 Ef Ceramic Burner Tile" is available from a US seller, not sure how tricky it would be to cut to fit and make gas tight though or what the quality is like.
Rio Grande Jewelry is based in my home town. I might have to drive over there and let them know they got a shout out from you.
Absolutely brilliant. I have to put a bank of 4 in my traction engine when I get that far & this will help no end . Thankyou for this
try the catalyst from the car, from the exhaust system
Quinn, murphys law say anything that can go wrong will! and yay forthe tappy tap tap!
Maybe already suggested by someone else, but you could support the copper cup with a big puck of material pressed against the bottom of the cup by a life center.
If you need tools for poking solder into place, try titanium. Solder doesn't stick to it, or at least the solder I use for silver jewelry doesn't. A bit more expensive than just using a random metal rod, and I don't know how available it is in sizes you might need, but it's convenient. Love these videos, and though you aren't likely to need me to tell you, do keep them coming!
Try stainless steel bicycle spokes. They are free if you go to a bikeshop trash dumpster
Learning so much every time as the dumbass I am; thank you so much, also the laughs are very much appreciated
Just a thought, pack the sprint with copper wool to defuse the fuel stream, but also use both combination of large holed and small holes jewelers plate to bump up the velocity of the gas right before the cone of the jet is formed.
Inexpensive jeweler's titanium solder picks would be better than the stainless because titanium is horrible at transmitting heat. That means that it doesn't suck heat out of the solder joint and that even with the tip of the solder pick in the flame and glowing, it's comfortable to hold the pick a short length away. Also solder doesn't want to stick to titanium. We melt little balls of solder, pick up the molten balls with the pick and set them in place strategically.
Flame may appear "non-perfect" because of metal ions (possibly sodium and calcium) in ceramic. They may turn the flame into yellow to orange color.
#85 Drill bit will make that jet . its the smallest i have in my micro drill index.
Did you think of covering the air holes to make it easier to light? Back in school we used to just hold fingers over the similar air holes on Bunsen burners to light them
Was wondering the same - think the ones I used at school had a split sleeve with holes that could be rotated to control air admission.
Could you attach a set screw setup to the jet so you can move it in or out with a screwdriver? Cool video! Thanks for posting!
@ 17:05 - Secretarial Fluid.
Keep it simple, change the jet, it's easier then changing ceramic matrix or burner volume. A good stoichiometric ratio for the volume methinks... Nice video so informative plus entering 👍
In case it has not already been mentioned, when forming/smoothing uncured silicone put some saliva on your finger first. Stops the silicone sticking to your finger, makes it easier to work, and gives a better finish.
Haven't used the high temp silicone, so might not work for that.
Interesting. And here I would have guessed what you were going for is what you call, under burning, where the ceramic is glowing. Kind of like those catalytic propane heaters. I have two of them. One smaller with a single grid, and one bigger with 2 ceramic grids. When you first light them it's a nice blue flame, but as it warms up the ceramic starts glowing orange and radiates a whole lot more heat. They must be made of a different type of ceramic I'm guessing.
OK the ceramic used is from a household portable gas fire the ones that have a gas bottle in the back.
The ceramic is designed to burn gas. Your holes are to big for the size jet your using. We grab the scrap
One's from the scrap yards. However they are getting increasingly harder to get. By the way I live in the UK.
Hope this helps.
Ooh thanks for doing this I’ve added his book to my Xmas list 😀 with your end cap a decent sized bit of stock faced each end and centre drilled would have worked better than the wooden stick. Use your live centre to apply pressure. Not always possible but not drilling all the way through provides a positive stop for your copper pipe and tends to stoop plugging. I liked your use of the jewellery fixture plate might have to get one 😀
Could you take apart a pipe cutter, taking the rollers and cutter out, and put them in a large frame?
Have you tried boiling a pot of water with that burner yet?? Will there close bottom of the pot change the fire cones you are looking at?
i wonder how different the geometry of that gas nozzle is from common (and inexpensive - 10 pack for $5) brass 3D printer extruder nozzles? .2mm and .3mm are both "standard" sizes.
Standard gas nozzles are very inexpensive. You only know where to buy them.
while trying to part aluminum tube, I launched the blade so it imbedded itself in the wall behind the lathe
30 min nice👌
"She does not got this". Priceless.
Darts use BA threads to hold the tips on. Som crazy high-end Japanese optics and measuring devices use BA threads.
If you plug the holes that have the highest cones, will that help distribute the gas better?
There are 0.3 mm PCB drills, but I've never been able to keep them running true enough - a drill chuck with 0.1 mm runout is now wobbling by 1/3 of the drill diameter and carbide doesn't like that. It is also difficult to center the tailstock well enough, especially on an older lathe.
Being even less than a novice, could the jet be installed at a sharp angle instead of strait in? The gas hitting the inside edge of the burner wall could cause it to swirl around the inside.