Very informative indeed! Well done. I particularly like the way you fashioned two teeth from wood to exemplify what ATB teeth look like. That was brilliant! Thanks again for your time in showing this video.
I bought it more than 4 months ago and forgot to tell you. Anyway, my 80 tooth blade took awhile but man o man it was worth it! Clean cuts, less chip out and even my circular saw plywood blade had less chip out. The sharpener takes awhile to set up correctly, but was WELL worth the price! Two of my friends and one other woodworker have since purchased one and love theirs also. Thanks sooo much for your excellent review, instruction and demonstration!!
+MRrwmac That's great Mac! I'm glad it's working out for you. It does take a bit of time to setup, but still less time and money over going out and buying a new blade...lol. G.
Going to buy one right now! I received a stack of blades from a friend that are garbage. One of them is a Freud 60 tooth or 80. Can't remember. Anyway it has a shitload of teeth and cost almost 100 bucks. It will not cut a fart. Can't wait to try it after it gets sharpened. It will pay for itself with the one blade. You give me a lot of help and it's appreciated.
That's cool Tom! I would start with a few cheaper blades, to get a feel for it, before going after the Freud. I have a video posted of my initial review and some simple mods to make it work better. I'm including a link if you haven't seen it. Aside from that, it will pay for itself- no doubt. Let me know how it works out. Good luck, G. th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Even the best carbide won't cut butter when it's dull. It's best to sharpen the blade before it gets really dull. The sharper you keep it the longer it lasts.
Thanks so much! I have about 5 carbide circular saw blades. I was about to send them out to a saw sharpening shop. Very glad I didn't Went to Harbor Freight and picked up your machine and followed the same set up......great job it does
Came back to relook at this video because a friend got one after I told him about your video, review and testing. He had some trouble getting it setup so I helped him and WOW does that thing give you an almost new blade! We test cut before and after. Like you said a world of difference. He told me to thank you and If I can get a few bucks out of the cookie jar, I'll be getting one (he's stingy and won't let me borrow his without a lot of complaining even though I helped him set it up - go figure). Thanks for sharing!!
That's cool Mac! I'm glad the video helped and you guys got good results like I did. It's a bit of a pain to setup as you've found, but with a little patience it's not too bad- and works well. Too bad he's stingy even after all your help...lol. Hopefully you can get one soon. Don't forget to use a 25% off coupon to save more cash! slickdeals.net/f/1276399-harbor-freight-coupon-thread About halfway down the page. Get something free while you're at it. Good luck, G.
I bought one of these and it sharpens ok with the Harbor Freight diamond blade, but it's rough. I went on eBay and bought a 3000 grit diamond wheel for $4 and wow!! Highly polished carbide tips. I would highly recommend this upgrade.
Here is the wheel I bought. The arbor is smaller the the Harbor Freight wheel so used a washer to compensate for the difference to center the wheel. www.ebay.com/itm/391398107751
Curtis, I know this is an old thread. But now that its been a few years. hows the unit holding up? also for new sharpening do you recommend go straight to the 4K grit? or use the stock pad then final polish with the 4K. 4K just sounds a little more like a final polish.
The proper grit diamond wheel for sharpening this kind of carbide in this application is 400 -600 grit! 3,000 is way to fine and will build up to much heat. I sharpen thousands of blades a month with very good results use 400-600 grit wheels. IMO
After watching both of your videos on this sharpener I finally caught them on sale and had enough money to purchase it. I must admit that I was as surprised and happy at how well it sharpened as you were! After setting mine up and testing on one blade (a somewhat dull one) I immediately grabbed all of mine (all sizes) checked they were 90 deg (yes it was difficult because there is the illusion you spoke of) and sharpened every blade I could find (9 of them) - haha. The "paw" was so finicky that I didn't use it after the first two blades. I used the touch touch method you spoke of instead. Same pressure and time on each tooth. One thing to mention is that on each blade before turning on the motor, I would do as you were doing and just scrape a few teeth and check that the full face of the tip was getting scraped evenly. Once I made adjustments and was sure the diamond wheel was scraping the full tip, I marked my start tooth with a line and a date then turn the motor on and sharpened it.
+MRrwmac Agreed, the paw is the hardest part to get set correctly. Good to hear the touch method is working well for you. With you doing so many blades, it's paid for itself many times over now. What are you going to buy with your blade savings???...lol. G.
+ghostses Funny you should ask. Got the welding table and their Clamp Cut Edge Guide this last weekend. Might be a bit more than what I saved, so don't tell the wife - haha.
+MRrwmac LOL, I'll send you my address so you can start sending your "keep quiet" money! Let me know what you think of the clamp guide. I've seen them in the store. G.
Great information. Thinking about getting one of these sharpeners but was a little put off by the set up process. Your explanations are very helpful. Thanks for the good work.
hi there fellow wood cutter. I just wanted to leave a note for you and thank you for a great video. I've been wanting to get this sharpener for a few weeks now. I have about 45 blades that need sharpened and after watching this video of yours I'm totally hooked and can't wait to get my own. thanks again and keep the great videos coming
+Rose Mccarty Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. With that many blades to sharpen, it will pay for itself many times over on the first use. Be sure to search for a 20% off coupon to use. Once you get it, and play with it, feedback with your results. Good luck, G.
Thanks much I'm in construction biz but not a carpenter I have asked a few carp if it was worth sharping a blade always answers is no but now this vid has convinced me for under 40$ I will try this in my new shop I'm putting together for crafts . thank much
No problem Chris! Keep on mind those carpenters are baking in the cost of blades to their jobs. Someone else is paying for them! I would also guess they're not using expensive blades- but just enough to get the job reasonably done. So, no- it wouldn't make good business sense to farm out a sharpening service in that case. With that said, this tool does have it's place- especially if you're the one that absorbs all the costs for your crafts, etc. For the cost, it's worth the gamble to see if it will work for you. If it does, it will pay for itself in short order over buying new blades. If not, not much is lost. I also have an initial review on this tool that includes some simple modifications to make it work better. I would recommend watching it as well. The newer models might have taken care of the issues I've noted- but not sure. Hope this helps, and take care, G. th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Man im glad i found this video . I bought this sharpener a couple years ago and made a dull blade worse.lol I'm gonna give it a try again now i see how to do it properly. Thanks for posting this video......
Thanks Arky, I hope it works out well for you. Like I said in the videos, it's a bit difficult to get setup, be works great after. Don't forget to use a 25% off coupon! Here's my video showing where to get it, along with some free items. Good luck, G. th-cam.com/video/oYkQfJxKGJU/w-d-xo.html
The wood-block tooth mock-ups are great! I'd also love to see a video about changing the tooth angles to convert a cheap blade to a dado-style tooth. I often want to make narrow dados that could be made in a couple passes with a single blade. I hate fooling around with dado stacks. Just finished making a Thien seperator. The whole time I was thinking "Thank God I'm not making a youtube video of this!'. My hat's off to quality content creators like you.
Thanks Dan! That's an interesting idea to change a cheap blade to a flat top grind for making narrow dados. I don't know if this machine will allow for the change, but then again I've not thought about it. I agree on fooling around with the stacks. My set doesn't see much light of day- especially if I'm only doing a groove or two. I would tend to route them out over setting up the stack. I hope your Thien build went well. I know building mine was one of the best things I've done. I will say it did take tons of time to put my build series together..lol. But it was worth it to share my take on it for others to use, or build from. Take care and good luck, G.
Good video, I have been putting off buying one of these sharpeners as i don't have much faith in h. f. power tools. Now after seeing you video, I have put it on the shopping list. Thank you for posting this.
I suggest you don't turn the blade into position before you bring the wheel in. Bring the wheel in first and then turn the blade to lightly touch the wheel. If more pressure is needed, you can easily do it. This way you avoid having the wheel run into tip of the tooth and take too much off.
Thanks for this video. With your 2 videos on the Harbor Freight Circular Saw Blade Sharpener, I understand the device and can use it now without fear..
Great Tutorial on this. I bought many things at H.F over the years and fiind most things work suprisingly well, but wasn't sure on this one. You convinced me to get it. H.F should thank you too. Thanks.
Thanks Morrison! I have another video on this sharpener showing some simple modifications to make it work better. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet. I'm very selective on what I buy there, and for the most part have been satisfied- especially for the cost. I have many reviews posted on their products as well that you might find useful. Look for my video on coupons/etc. There is a link in the description to a site where you can print off the 25% off coupon as well as other free items. Take advantage of the savings! Good luck, G.
Good deal Gary! I'm completely satisfied with the results, mainly due to getting more life out of blades that were truly unsafe to use any longer. They might not be as good as brand new, but getting more from one is good enough for me. Good luck and take care, G.
great video ! been wanting to buy one of these sharpeners but haven't for fear of difficulties of operations. you just made it operable ! thanks bub just got yourself a subscriber.
hey thanks for that bit of info I already ordered over the weekend and I used the coupon with the president day sale that came out last Friday it makes a difference on the price and wheels. I'm sure after I sharpen my first blade it will have paid for itself. I make a lot of whirligigs and do lots of cutting and ripping from treated lumber. I'm so glad I found your video because I know that the setup will be way easy now that I can go back and watch your video if I get into a tight spot. I will be sure to leave you a message and let you know how it went... thanks again oh BTW Rose is short for Roosevelt just wanted to let you know that.
+Rose Mccarty No problem! I went back and edited my first response to remove the "Rose". I get a lot of comments from females as well, so I don't think twice about names or genders....lol. I'm not sure if you've seen my initial review on this product. I do make some very simple mods to make it work better. I'll post a link to it as it might be useful. Take care, G. th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for posting. I bought the same sharpener about 4 years ago and there were no instructions with it. I'll need to get it out of moth balls now. Thanks again
+Rich Parker Rich, I couldn't reply to your post, for some reason, when you made it- so better late than never I guess...lol. I hope you dug it out and it's been serving you well. Let me know your experience. Good luck, G.
I bought this tool about three months ago and sharpened seven blades on it...three 10", and four 7". The first 10" I did is still cutting on the saw and the other two are ready for use later when needed. Further note: You can adjust the angle cut on the blades by tipping the motor with and adjustment on the scale underneath the table...right or left.
That's cool, Joesph. I mentioned the ability to tilt the motor in the initial review of the tool but should have mentioned it here as well. Thanks and take care, G.
I am a TH-cam safety cop and you my friend are busted the length of that pencil eraser was well below OSHA standards. Seriously though thanks for posting the video I did not even know that Harbor Freight sold those I might have to get one.
No doubt Mike..lol. That's a good visual testament to how many mistakes I make!! Perhaps that should be the new measure of a man- how long is your eraser??? LOL. They're a bit of a pain to setup correctly, but work good past that. Catch it on sale, and use a %25 off coupon on top of that and it makes for a good gamble even if you end up not being satisfied. I have a video up with a link to the site for coupons and free stuff. Good luck, G.
The reviews I read recommended watching the video first. I'm glad I did! Thanks for pointing out the shortcomings and improvements. I'll swing by HF tomorrow on the way home and pick one up. I'll see how well it works on my dado set.
Tim, I'm really surprised the video was referenced as something to watch- that's super cool! I assume you've seen my initial review, but if you haven't you might check it out as well. Be sure to print a 25% off coupon and apply it to the purchase! I have a video on where to find the coupon if you want/need to locate one. Also print a coupon for something free from the same site- you might as well. I see no reason it wont work for the outside blades on a dado set. I haven't thought of sharpening the chipper blades though. You might have to do them without using the pawl- but it should work. Let me know how it works out. Good luck, G.
***** Only found a 20% coupon, close enough. I probably won't get to the dado set until this week-end. I figure the sharpener is cheaper than a new dado set. I have seen other videos for this sharpener that skip the pawl all together. I'll use that method to hit the chipper blades.
Tim Grace Yeah Tim, it looks like the 25% that was just there expired so they pulled it. I'm sure another will pop up soon. They keep the page updated nicely so keep it in mind if you ever purchase anything else from them. 20%'s still not bad for savings and is close enough like you said. If you have an old cheap blade, you might play around with it to get a feel for the machine before attacking your set. It is fickle to get setup. Either way, let me know how it works out! Good luck with it, G.
***** Did some of your suggestions, but found that the disk didn't stay square to the blade and didn't notice until I finished the second cutter blade on the dado set. I ended up tearing it all down, replaced a couple of bolts & nuts and added a couple of washers. The whole motor & disk tilt a little but on the draw into the blade, then straightens back out when I withdraw it, I removed the pawl, draw the disk to position and rotate the blade blade into the disk and hold the blade while I withdraw the disk. Re-did the dado set and it came out fine. Not as good as new, but close enough. It at least cuts now instead of beating the wood into submission! Oh, and I did test on 3 different circular saw blades with missing teeth prior to getting comfortable enough to tackle a good, albeit dull, blade. Installed it and it cut beautifully. It wasn't until I started on the dado set that the squareness began to drift. Thanks again for posting both of the videos!
Tim Grace Thanks for the update Tim! It sounds like yours had an issue mine didn't seem to have. Glad you found your way around it and came up with a technique that's working for you. I'm sure it will help others out. Take care, G.
I purchased one of these a few days ago and had a go at sharpening a couple blades tonight. As has been pointed out by others, set-up is a bit fiddly. The instruction manual is somewhat confusing, and the printing is too small for my eyes. I had some difficulty setting up the blade stop, so I winged it without using the stop. Since I was grinding teeth without an angle, I simply pressed each tooth the same number of times against the diamond wheel, using the same amount of pressure each time. I tested the blade on my table saw, obviously, and found it made a clean cut rip through a piece of Oak. I paid $35.00 for the sharpener, as I had a 20% coupon, and it was already on sale. I believe it is well worth having. I have too many blades that have been collecting dust for years. So now I can use them.
Good info Daniel! I've been trying to stress the point, wherever I could, that it is fiddly on adjusting the pawl- but other than that the machine works pretty good as you've found. Thanks for giving others the info on how you've been using yours- without the pawl. I'm sure it will be a benefit. You're also correct about the manual. I noted that in my review video it was written in a language I didn't understand...lol. This machine is so inexpensive to purchase and will pay for itself after just a few uses- which is pretty cool in my book. Glad you're satisfied with your results. Thanks again and good luck, G.
I bought this sharpener and out of the box it was horrendously loose and not workable. After spending about three hours in the shop working and improving it, it is a nice tight well working sharpener. You must disassemble it completely. For instance, take the bottom plate under the motor that tightens against the round rods and use a ball peen hammer to extend the sides so the piece fits snugly into it's place- no more moving or wobbling. Add a thin film of elect tape on the ends of the rods to tighten those connections. Remove the nut from the plastic knob that tightens the arm extension and drill it out to accept a 1/4" rod- now you can tighten it down with little effort. Make a washer to fit under the ext arm. The blade catcher is too loose- replace the washer above the spring with a thicker one- now it is tight. Too much to post here, but my machine is tight and all the parts don't move at all!
No problem and good luck. I have another video on this that shows the tweaking I did to make it better. You might check it out, if you haven't already, to see what I did. Thanks, G.
Great video! I'm not sure how this machine is but I've had tools or machines that were so hard to use and almost couldn't .....all because the manufacturing company used course threaded bolts. A simple fine thread bolt allows one to find that "sweet spot" to make an adjustment. Instead of being tight to loose with a slight adjustment with course threads!! I know someone else has have this issue?! Haha!!
+cnvw974 Thanks! It's a little difficult to get dialed in, but it works pretty good. I know what you mean about course bolts and trying to make fine tuning adjustments! Take care, G.
You do a real good job of explaining how this thing works. I read that the diamond disc is not that good- have you replaced yours? can you link me to the supplier
After all this time, do you still use this machine? Have you made any additional Mods to it? I bet your surprised that comments are still coming on this video. It because you really did a excellent job. on it. What this machine has allowed me to do is lower my prices for a simple sharpening with the confidence that it is worth the value. I would still recommend a limit, however, At some point, the blade needs to be replaced or professionally reconditioned.
The only problem with face sharpening the insert is that it thins the carbide insert over its full length. This weakens the carbide after only a few sharpenings, leaving it prone to breakage.. It is possible to set this machine up to grind the top of the tooth, which removes far less of the insert. This removes a lot less carbide and the insert retains its thickness and strength. You can sharpen the blade a lot more times before the inserts become too weak to use.
I could be wrong, but I think the pro's would sharpen the faces and the tops. I just do the faces. If I can lightly sharpen 3-4 times- I'm happy. You can sharpen the tops using the emery wheel it comes with. I've never used it, nor know the procedure. I don't think just doing the tops would work well since the sides of the insert would continue to get duller and duller over time. Take care, G.
Did I miss it or did you forget to adjust the support post? Thanks for the video, I think I will pick one of these up as I just had to purchase 2 more blades because like your 7 1/4" blade mine was missing teeth.
No Patrick, I simply forgot to adjust it. I mentioned it later in the video. For what they cost, they work pretty good and pay for themselves in short order. Be sure to look online for a 20% off coupon to save more. They're always out there to be had. After you get one, and play with a few blades- let me know how it works out for you. Good luck, G.
I have this tool, it pays for itself very fast. I used a sharpening service when I was a builder and the man who did the actual work told me blade cleanliness was of paramount importance so when I sharpen blades I do so after I clean the blade. It may well be just me but they feel sharper after just cleaning the whole blade. I just face sharpen mine and most are combo blades anyway as 80% of my material is hardwood plywood so ultra sharp is the only way to go. Even the bottom of the cut is very near splinter free. I do not use that "flipper" by the time I jerk around with that POS, I can have a blade finished. Just bring the tooth into contact, slide it about 4 strokes counting in and out and you have a razor edged blade.
That they do Pete! I fully agree, a clean blade is paramount. Router bits are the same. Sometimes that's all it takes to get one going again. Many have posted they sharpen theirs just about like you do- without using the pawl. Good to hear yours is working well for you. Take care, G.
I own an industrial sharpening business and I sharpen for a living and you should clean the blade before you sharpen! Wire wheel on a bench grinder works great, just use a very obtuse angle to be safe! You can also soak in 5 parts hot water 1 part dollar store laundry detergent for an hour then hit it with a SS hand brush! Or do both! You can’t actually see if you have sharpen properly if you can’t see the cutting edge clearly! If you need any help just let me know I don’t mind telling what little I know!
Seems like the left right adj of the far left blade arm pillar should be set so that a line drawn from diamond wheel face straight down would be parallel with blade tooth face and center of blade = a 90 deg grind
Thanks for making this. I will definitely pick one of these up as I have a mountain of old dull blades sitting in a pile under my saw in a cabinet! Have you ever tried HF's chainsaw blade sharpener? Looks fairly similar to the circular sharpener, but I have never tried it. Just wondered. Keep cuttin!
No problem Jason! It should bring them back to life. Watch my other video on this tool, if you hadn't already, to see the modifications I've made to make it work better. No, I haven't used their chainsaw sharpener so I don't have any opinion of it. Since I don't do all that much cutting, I just use the hand file on mine when it's needed. Good luck, G.
Jason Goris I really like the 2hp collector. It's proven itself to be a great purchase. I did add a pleated filter and built a separator to use with it as well. I do have videos posted for each. Sounds like the 1hp version they sell if another fine machine. Take care, G.
just set mine up, about to plug it in and get to work. i have about 30 blades. i knew hoarding them after they got dull was a good idea, and not just to throw at trees like giant throwing stars!
From the way your lights dimmed when you started the vacuum and saw, I would say that you need to upgrade your wiring in your shop. It could be a fire hazard due to circuit overload.
Tony, I was using a temporary structure for working on my house. The lights, collector, and saw were all running on one 15amp circuit with 12 gauge wiring. But you are correct- in any permanent situation, they should be broken out on different circuits. Thanks for the post! Take care, G.
Impressed the blade cut that well with just the face sharpened. One suggestion. For face sharpening I wouldn't mess with the finger. Just real light free hand pressure on the face of the tooth. Save ya lot fiddling. Take care !
Hey pal-- have you sharpened any more blades ? Never let your blades get over dull, and probably, with just light face grinding --will keep you cutting with that tool. enjoyed your video.
Saved a $130 Dewalt 14" metal cutting blade. Saw sharpener $49 to $69 .... Good deal for sure. It's kind of flimsy but seems to do the job if you pay attention
That's great! Yours already paid for itself twice over. I agree, it's a little flimsy and takes some finesse to get setup properly but it will sharpen a blade as you've found. For me, it was a great buy. Take care, G.
I just picked one up for cheep at an estate sale. Your videos answered all my how to questions, thank you. Now that you've used it for a while, are you still satisfied with the sharpening results? In your opinion, does a saw sharpened with this remain as sharp for as long as a professionally sharpened blade?
+Roy Miller Good pickup Roy! I'm glad the video answered your questions. I am still satisfied with it for sure. I've never had a blade professional sharpened so I have no opinion regarding your question on longevity. I would assume a professionally sharpened blade, with much better equipment, would yield superior results. But, since I use fairly inexpensive blades- I would throw them out before having them sharpened professionally. With this unit, I do get more life from them so it works out well for me. Good luck, G.
+ghostses you wrote above: "But, since I use fairly expensive blades- I would throw them out before having them sharpened professionally" Did you mean expensive or INEXPENSIVE? :)
What did you mean about not sharpening the top of the blade? Doesn't sharpening it like you did sharpen the top as well as all 4 sides of the tooth are sharpened?
+meedily It came with an emery wheel and the manual said to use it if you were to sharpen the tops of the teeth. Why one would, I don't know. I agree with your comments! G.
I am about to buy a sharpener like that just watched your video 2 times. do you ever weld band saw blades with electric welder I have a woodmizer and been welding them with silver solder but would like a electric one. I have done 300 videos on utube my self=fatbeeman. good work
+Don The Fat Bee Man That's cool Don! I don't know if you've seen the review video, but I will include a link. It shows some simple mods that make it work better. No, I've never welded or brazed band saw blades. Take care, G. th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Electric welding (either arc or resistance) is the way the manufacturer probably does it initially. I don't think that makes it the best way to do it. A heat-effected zone is created around the weld when the base metal at the weld is brought to molten state and cooled off. Middle of zone (the weld) is left annealed unless you quench. Area around the weld has temper ruined. You would have to anneal the entire blade, weld, re-heat treat, quench, temper, normalize the ENTIRE blade as one. This all means that the silver soldering you are doing is a wonderful thing. You could try brazing. Welding normally will have a filler material of 70,000 lbs tensile strength. Brazing gives 90,000 lbs tensile strength!
Very informative videos. If a person has a worm driven large hand held circular saw where the blades mount by punching out the center round hole so you have a diamond, shaped mounting hole, do you think you could still easily rotate the blade to sharpen tooth by tooth. Or will it only work on round hole mounting blades? I am not sure if only the blade is rotating to sharpen each tooth or the whole post the blade is mounted on, is rotating. I see this was done in 2013, I hope you are still answering questions.
@@ghostses Hey, you are still answering questions. You probably don't even get notification anymore. Since not hearing anything. I had decided it probably would not work on on a diamond shaped hole. I was wrong again! Thanks for responding. Going to get me one and sharpen the 7-8 blades I have kept just incase I need to cut some really dirty wood. You know the kind, that has old concrete or something like that on it. They have been hanging on nails forever.
I am John. I may be slow but do still try to answer all questions. For what it costs, it's way worth the gamble. Especially for using it to cut nasty stuff. Let me know how it goes. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses Since I live a long ways from town, I ordered mine and finally received it. I tried it out on a diamond shaped hole and it worked just fine. Thanks for your help and video.
+Thomas Shue Thanks Thomas! I'm running an old 10" Craftsman contractor saw (probably just pre 90's) that's been extremely dialed in. Aside from a power difference, it runs like a cabinet saw! The sharpener, for what it is, works great once you get it dialed in. Good luck and take care, G.
Like everything of any brand some things are junk some things are good the only difference is that there is more of a junk possibility at hf but they also have lets say grinders there cheap ones better ones and "heavy duty" and they are not bad at all! Great review,how to vid on this item.
+Mod Mike Agreed 100% Mike! They have some real gems here and there, but you do have to root them out. Other things should just be left on the shelf where they're found...lol. Some things just need minor modifications or tweaking to make them work better- this sharpener is one example. Over all I've had good luck with their stuff and saved a ton along the way. Glad you liked the review. Good luck, G.
I did the official thumbs up on it. I might have to go get one. Could save a good buck or two. I do wish you would have used some pushsticks man. Oof, made me nervous, but thanks for the video.
Tom, I believe the process of using the emery wheel is noted in the manual- but can't confirm. Personally, I've never used it. But, it should be OK to use it for both high-speed and carbide. Not much help- but good luck, G.
Thanks! The fence sure does look flaky in the video for sure...LOL. What you're seeing is a thin plastic strip on the fence that's loosing it's adhesive. I need to replace it. Thanks for the post, G.
+Wink Butz Wink, I realize this post was a year ago or so- but at the time I couldn't reply until now- for some reason. It's interesting the technique you use and made me think of mine. While I don't ride my fingers over the fence like you do, I put my pinky on top of my ring finger and run my palm down the top of the fence. Very cool stuff! I've been cutting for ions and never thought much about my technique. Thanks for the post and take care, G.
@@ghostses I sharpened a blade with a 1 1/4" arbor hole by making an adapter out of a washer. The outside diameter of the washer is 1 1/4" and the diameter of the inner hole in the washer is just big enough to fit over the blade post.
Oven cleaner works as good as anything cleaning pitch off blades (after all what is burned food but carbon based material like pitch?). Mist stings the lungs so a ventilated spot is a good idea. A 10 inch blade fits nicely in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Spray, let it sit for a bit. Use an old toothbrush and the blade should clean up well. Always work for me. Maybe a second treatment if the blade is really bad.
That's great Joseph! I'd consider that a huge success. It sound's like it's already paid for itself- possibly more. Thanks for the update and take care, G.
ghostes I think you need a little help, with Blade identification. At the start of the Video you said that the Blade was a " Finishing " Blade, Then at the end you thought it was a "Combination" Blade. it is neither, it is a " Standard Construction" . This Vid is very helpful. thank You..
+Mister Jack I did call it a combination blade, but don't recall ever calling it a finishing blade. Please point me to the spot in the video so I can hear what I said. But yes, it's a standard construction blade. Glad you found it useful. Take care, G.
Just want to say, as others, thanks for the video! I've heard numerous reports on this sharpener about how it isn't the "right" way to sharpen blades, that you have to do the tops and sides etc....and of course, if we were all Bill Gates and could afford the time and money to buy the $5,000.00 machines and have someone on staff to simply sharpen our blades for us that'd be nice in a perfect world, but most of us don't live in that world. One of the first things I learned when I became a carpenter is that a dull blade is infinitely more dangerous than a sharp one. If this machine is used to simply touch up slightly dull blades, it would pay for itself in no time. Where I live it costs about $1.50 a tooth and takes about 10 working days to get a blade professionally done....I have an 80 tooth melamine/veneer blade that cost me $120 new....to get it resharpened costs the same as a new blade....hence why I treat it like the hope diamond and never leave it in the saw.....when it becomes dull this machine would be paid for in one shot....
No problem Michael! I have no doubt the correct way to sharpen a blade would include everything you've read but it would require a machine in the thousands to do it like you've said. Yep, a dull blade no matter the type- knife, razor, saw, etc. is way more dangerous for sure. At those costs to sharpen a blade, I would treat mine like the hope as well. This isn't the greatest tool in the world, but it was only 30 something bucks! It may not produce professional or factory results, but it will revive a tired blade as seen. I don't use extremely expensive blades but it's already paid for itself! I don't have a melamine blade since I've never worked with it. I'd be curious after sharpening one with this machine if it's still fairly chip free when making a cut. If you ever pick one up, and are willing to sacrifice one of your blades for testing, please let me know the results. I'm sure others would like to know as well. I guess you could always pay the piper to get it dressed back up if it didn't workout to your satisfaction. Good luck, G.
Even a razor sharp Melamine blade will give you some chip out on the bottom. What I do to minimize it is to make 2 cuts...the first one really REALLY shallow, basically just scoring the side facing the table, then do another pass with the blade raised to cut the rest of the way through..... The only sure fire way to get no chip out is to get a table saw with a slitting blade in front. I worked in a shop that had a 120" slider Griggio. It had a 4" blade that turns in the opposite direction in front of the main blade...it was unnerving to use because even though it was only raised about 1/8", that was still enough to rip your palm apart if you didn't know it was there. We had an unwritten rule that if you used it, and didn't lower it back down when you were done, you got a kick in the rear.....
michael cochrane Good tip on making a shallow cut first. I can see that by doing this, the blade exiting the cut would be at a narrow angle and reduce the chip out. I can see where that would work great scoring with the first blade and finishing with the second. It would open up a good gash if you didn't know it was there, and agree with the unwritten rule! G.
michael cochrane ; I send my blades to Total Saw Solutions in WI. They'll cnc sharpen the face, top and sides of a 40 tooth blade and hammer and retention it for about $25 + shipping. I imagine an 80 tooth blade will cost around $40. Other than using their service, I'm not affiliated with them. But I am very happy with their work.
Didn't read any other comments yet believe me or not, lol. But I'm pretty sure I'm not the first one to say that YOU are probably pissing a bunch of saw sharpener trade people off, not to mention the blade manufactures lmao. If I can get that saw sharpener half that good, it'll save me a TON of money. I have absolutely no reason not to try this.
Best low effort blade cleaner: any container that will hold your blade and liquid. Lay blade inside and pour straight liquid laundry soap until it covers the blade to at lease 1/8” Leave it for at least 15-20 minutes. I leave mine overnight. But 15-20 minutes works while having lunch. Scrub any remaining resin with a tooth brush. Boom, done.
That's probably partly my fault. I know they watch my reviews since they've contacted me before on a different video. And some things I note that need to be corrected with the products- they correct. This one's pretty popular and has sent many sales their way I'm sure. Still waiting for my kickback checks, but they're always "in the mail"...lol. Always look for a 20-25% off coupon online. It's a good way to save a few bucks. G.
Buck, I use a tool like this. Good luck, G. www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Square-Metal-Protractor/dp/B00004T7TB/ref=sr_1_4/145-1722407-9538404?ie=UTF8&qid=1501720158&sr=8-4&keywords=protractor+machinist
You are correct Robert, they do show the blade in backwards. They simply are not using the machine correctly in their video- oddly enough. What I show here should be the proper procedure. Good luck, G.
bella, you can find them here- as well as some free stuff. It's about halfway down the page. Good luck, G. slickdeals.net/f/1276399-harbor-freight-coupon-thread
Thanks for the video. I just want to clear some angles on the Tooth samples you had. I see you were talking about 10 degrees and that you marked it on the sample, but hell that looked like 80 degrees to me. So is the 25 degrees really 25 or is it 65 degrees. I just think that small mistakes like that might get your fingers cut off.
No problem Gerhardt! I answered your questions in a previous post, so I'm going to tack that response here. Hopefully it will make more sense. I could've/should've noted why I called them what I did, and left off the arcs and arrows. I can see how it could be confusing. Take care, G. "The degrees are correctly labeled- the arrows not so much. The references are from the waste side- not what's shown. I could have been more clear here- but wasn't. Think about using a mitering chop saw. You set the saw to 10 degrees because that's how the saw is marked. It's not marked 80 degrees even though that's what you end up with- depending on your reference. Thanks for the post, G. "
+David K Pettibone I've heard of that, including eating any coating. I've used a product I got from WoodCraft but recently heard that using liquid laundry detergent works extremely well. I plan on trying it out since I always have it. Take care, G.
+Kevin Gandy YES I DO Kevin!!! I have the saw setup in a temporary shelter and space is my problem. I use roller out-feed supports but didn't take the time to set one up for this clip. I hope someday I will have a large space where I can set up tables so I can manage full sheets of stock easily. Good luck and take care, G.
Your angles are incorrectly labelled. It is actually 80 degrees on one face, 65 on the other. Not 10 and 25 like you have drawn. You meant to show the offset, but had nothing to write on!
Yes and no. The degrees are correctly labeled- the arrows not so much. The references are from the waste side- not what's shown. I could have been more clear here- but wasn't. Think about using a mitering chop saw. You set the saw to 10 degrees because that's how the saw is marked. It's not marked 80 degrees even though that's what you end up with- depending on your reference. Thanks for the post, G.
According to the HF website it will take up to a 15-3/4" blade. I have the 12" Compound Miter Saw from HF so looks like I'm pretty well covered, unless I buy a sawmill that has the 18" blades HAHA. This video is now over a year old. How's this sharpener holding up? I want to buy one to sharpen all the blades I have LOL. Especially now that I have more expensive blades.
Yeah William, it will handle some pretty large blades. You know you're going to end up with a sawmill- so just admit you have a problem, get one, and move on...lol. It still works great. Keep in mind though I'm not a hardcore cutter so it's probably only been used 5-6 times. Well more than enough to pay for itself many times over though. For the cost, even with having to fiddle with it, you can't go wrong. Good luck, G.
***** I'd like to get one of the portable sawmills, but those use a very large bandsaw setup rather than circular type blades. There's been several times that I could have got some great lumber if I had one. Thanks for the update on your sharpener as well. I absolutely try to avoid cutting through nails and such with my saws so the sharpener wouldn't get used very much probably about as often as yours LOL. I do have the chainsaw sharpener as well, sharpened both my 16" chains in about 20 minutes once I got the sharpener all setup it was extremely easy. Both chains cut like brand new. That sharpener paid for itself in a couple uses as well. Thanks again for your videos. Really enjoy your true to life reviews. I'm not saying HF is a top of the line place to buy stuff, but darn it when something is relatively cheap it doesn't necessarily mean its total junk either. I've purchased quite a few HF brand tools this past year and have been quite satisfied. This saw blade sharpener is definitely on my list to buy. I've got a few blades I could put back into service with just a quick touch up.
William Todd Yeah, I've seen the bandsaw types. I can't remember what it's called, but I've seen another type of track system that can be used with a chainsaw. It looked pretty cool to me. It might be a good solution for you so check into it if you're ever on the hunt. This sharpener is money well spent for sure! Someone just asked me if I'd used their chainsaw sharpener. I don't cut all that much so I just sharpen my blades with a file. It sounds like you're satisfied with it. If I have ever have a need, I'll pick one up. I'm glad you like my reviews. I try to show folks what to expect and for what cost. No, their stuff is not top of the line but in most cases- they don't need to be. With the exception of a couple of items, I've been completely satisfied with all of my purchases. I do have tools from the top shelf on down. I make my decisions based on need, how much I think they will be used, and lastly the dollar amount. I try so show folks they can get into something inexpensively for a hobby/etc. Some folks simply might not have the budget for really expensive tools and might never explore their interests. HF fills in quite nicely here. Let me know how the sharpener works out for you. G.
***** The chainsaw sharpener works great. It takes a little time to setup just as the circular saw blade sharpener but once its setup its really quick to sharpen a chain. Sharpen all the teeth going one direction. Flip the chain around and sharpen the teeth in the other direction. Its pretty quick, and works very well for a homeowner, or even someone that does a bit of logging work that doesn't want to spend a ton of money on a professional sharpener. I do have a set of files I carry with me when I'm up cutting firewood as well.
William Todd Good info! I took a quick peek at them online and $22.50 with a coupon sounds good to me. I just might have to put one on my wish list! G.
+James McIntyre Thanks James! It does do a fine job after fiddling with it..lol. I have them, and do use them- but admit not as often as I should. Good luck, G.
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Very informative indeed! Well done. I particularly like the way you fashioned two teeth from wood to exemplify what ATB teeth look like. That was brilliant! Thanks again for your time in showing this video.
Thanks Kevin! Glad you like it. Good luck, G.
I bought it more than 4 months ago and forgot to tell you. Anyway, my 80 tooth blade took awhile but man o man it was worth it! Clean cuts, less chip out and even my circular saw plywood blade had less chip out. The sharpener takes awhile to set up correctly, but was WELL worth the price! Two of my friends and one other woodworker have since purchased one and love theirs also. Thanks sooo much for your excellent review, instruction and demonstration!!
+MRrwmac
That's great Mac! I'm glad it's working out for you. It does take a bit of time to setup, but still less time and money over going out and buying a new blade...lol. G.
Going to buy one right now! I received a stack of blades from a friend that are garbage. One of them is a Freud 60 tooth or 80. Can't remember. Anyway it has a shitload of teeth and cost almost 100 bucks. It will not cut a fart. Can't wait to try it after it gets sharpened. It will pay for itself with the one blade. You give me a lot of help and it's appreciated.
That's cool Tom! I would start with a few cheaper blades, to get a feel for it, before going after the Freud. I have a video posted of my initial review and some simple mods to make it work better. I'm including a link if you haven't seen it. Aside from that, it will pay for itself- no doubt. Let me know how it works out. Good luck, G.
th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Even the best carbide won't cut butter when it's dull. It's best to sharpen the blade before it gets really dull. The sharper you keep it the longer it lasts.
True! G.
Tom Wilcox of course and
Dude!! Ah ha ha ha! I can't stop laughing. Funniest thing I've seen all week, maybe all month! Can't cut a fart...freakin' hilarious! Thank you.
Thanks so much! I have about 5 carbide circular saw blades. I was about to send them out to a saw sharpening shop. Very glad I didn't Went to Harbor Freight and picked up your machine and followed the same set up......great job it does
+MrHoopler
No problem! It sounds like it's already paid for itself! G.
Came back to relook at this video because a friend got one after I told him about your video, review and testing. He had some trouble getting it setup so I helped him and WOW does that thing give you an almost new blade! We test cut before and after. Like you said a world of difference. He told me to thank you and If I can get a few bucks out of the cookie jar, I'll be getting one (he's stingy and won't let me borrow his without a lot of complaining even though I helped him set it up - go figure). Thanks for sharing!!
That's cool Mac! I'm glad the video helped and you guys got good results like I did. It's a bit of a pain to setup as you've found, but with a little patience it's not too bad- and works well. Too bad he's stingy even after all your help...lol. Hopefully you can get one soon. Don't forget to use a 25% off coupon to save more cash!
slickdeals.net/f/1276399-harbor-freight-coupon-thread
About halfway down the page. Get something free while you're at it.
Good luck, G.
I bought one of these and it sharpens ok with the Harbor Freight diamond blade, but it's rough. I went on eBay and bought a 3000 grit diamond wheel for $4 and wow!! Highly polished carbide tips. I would highly recommend this upgrade.
Thanks for the info Curtis! Would you provide a link to the wheel you purchased? Good luck, G.
Here is the wheel I bought. The arbor is smaller the the Harbor Freight wheel so used a washer to compensate for the difference to center the wheel. www.ebay.com/itm/391398107751
Thanks Curtis! G.
Curtis, I know this is an old thread. But now that its been a few years. hows the unit holding up? also for new sharpening do you recommend go straight to the 4K grit? or use the stock pad then final polish with the 4K. 4K just sounds a little more like a final polish.
The proper grit diamond wheel for sharpening this kind of carbide in this application is 400 -600 grit! 3,000 is way to fine and will build up to much heat. I sharpen thousands of blades a month with very good results use 400-600 grit wheels. IMO
Jim Kent. Wow! What a great demonstration. I'm always hinky abbout HF's power tools, but you allayed some of my fears. Thanks for help!
Thanks! For what it is, it really does work well. Good luck, G.
After watching both of your videos on this sharpener I finally caught them on sale and had enough money to purchase it. I must admit that I was as surprised and happy at how well it sharpened as you were! After setting mine up and testing on one blade (a somewhat dull one) I immediately grabbed all of mine (all sizes) checked they were 90 deg (yes it was difficult because there is the illusion you spoke of) and sharpened every blade I could find (9 of them) - haha. The "paw" was so finicky that I didn't use it after the first two blades. I used the touch touch method you spoke of instead. Same pressure and time on each tooth. One thing to mention is that on each blade before turning on the motor, I would do as you were doing and just scrape a few teeth and check that the full face of the tip was getting scraped evenly. Once I made adjustments and was sure the diamond wheel was scraping the full tip, I marked my start tooth with a line and a date then turn the motor on and sharpened it.
+MRrwmac
Agreed, the paw is the hardest part to get set correctly. Good to hear the touch method is working well for you. With you doing so many blades, it's paid for itself many times over now. What are you going to buy with your blade savings???...lol. G.
+ghostses Funny you should ask. Got the welding table and their Clamp Cut Edge Guide this last weekend. Might be a bit more than what I saved, so don't tell the wife - haha.
+MRrwmac
LOL, I'll send you my address so you can start sending your "keep quiet" money! Let me know what you think of the clamp guide. I've seen them in the store. G.
Great information. Thinking about getting one of these sharpeners but was a little put off by the set up process. Your explanations are very helpful. Thanks for the good work.
Thanks Roy! The setup is a bit difficult but over time becomes quite easy. Good luck, G.
hi there fellow wood cutter. I just wanted to leave a note for you and thank you for a great video. I've been wanting to get this sharpener for a few weeks now. I have about 45 blades that need sharpened and after watching this video of yours I'm totally hooked and can't wait to get my own. thanks again and keep the great videos coming
+Rose Mccarty
Thanks! I'm glad you liked it. With that many blades to sharpen, it will pay for itself many times over on the first use. Be sure to search for a 20% off coupon to use. Once you get it, and play with it, feedback with your results. Good luck, G.
Thanks much I'm in construction biz but not a carpenter I have asked a few carp if it was worth sharping a blade always answers is no but now this vid has convinced me for under 40$ I will try this in my new shop I'm putting together for crafts . thank much
No problem Chris! Keep on mind those carpenters are baking in the cost of blades to their jobs. Someone else is paying for them! I would also guess they're not using expensive blades- but just enough to get the job reasonably done. So, no- it wouldn't make good business sense to farm out a sharpening service in that case.
With that said, this tool does have it's place- especially if you're the one that absorbs all the costs for your crafts, etc. For the cost, it's worth the gamble to see if it will work for you. If it does, it will pay for itself in short order over buying new blades. If not, not much is lost.
I also have an initial review on this tool that includes some simple modifications to make it work better. I would recommend watching it as well.
The newer models might have taken care of the issues I've noted- but not sure.
Hope this helps, and take care, G.
th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Man im glad i found this video . I bought this sharpener a couple years ago and made a dull blade worse.lol I'm gonna give it a try again now i see how to do it properly. Thanks for posting this video......
That's cool Rod! Glad it was helpful. Good luck, G.
thanks for your time and effort with these two videos much appreciated
No problem John! Glad you found them useful. Take care, G.
Your video and the opening one just sold me on the sharpener. I will own one tomorrow. Thank you. H.F. should thank you too.
Thanks Arky, I hope it works out well for you. Like I said in the videos, it's a bit difficult to get setup, be works great after. Don't forget to use a 25% off coupon! Here's my video showing where to get it, along with some free items. Good luck, G.
th-cam.com/video/oYkQfJxKGJU/w-d-xo.html
The wood-block tooth mock-ups are great! I'd also love to see a video about changing the tooth angles to convert a cheap blade to a dado-style tooth. I often want to make narrow dados that could be made in a couple passes with a single blade. I hate fooling around with dado stacks.
Just finished making a Thien seperator. The whole time I was thinking "Thank God I'm not making a youtube video of this!'. My hat's off to quality content creators like you.
Thanks Dan! That's an interesting idea to change a cheap blade to a flat top grind for making narrow dados. I don't know if this machine will allow for the change, but then again I've not thought about it. I agree on fooling around with the stacks. My set doesn't see much light of day- especially if I'm only doing a groove or two. I would tend to route them out over setting up the stack.
I hope your Thien build went well. I know building mine was one of the best things I've done. I will say it did take tons of time to put my build series together..lol. But it was worth it to share my take on it for others to use, or build from.
Take care and good luck, G.
Excellent job! Comprehensive and easy to follow! Thank you.
Well thanks! Glad you found something useful, G.
Absolutely superb. Awesome. Wow! Best finish I think I have ever seen. Thanks so much Ghosteses
Thanks again Pat! G.
Good video, I have been putting off buying one of these sharpeners as i don't have much faith in h. f. power tools. Now after seeing you video, I have put it on the shopping list. Thank you for posting this.
+S Thor
Thanks! I think it does a fine job- especially for how little it costs. Good luck, G.
I suggest you don't turn the blade into position before you bring the wheel in. Bring the wheel in first and then turn the blade to lightly touch the wheel. If more pressure is needed, you can easily do it. This way you avoid having the wheel run into tip of the tooth and take too much off.
Good tip. Thanks, G.
Thanks for this video. With your 2 videos on the Harbor Freight Circular Saw Blade Sharpener, I understand the device and can use it now without fear..
No problem again! Glad they were useful to you. Good luck, G.
Great Tutorial on this. I bought many things at H.F over the years and fiind most things work suprisingly well, but wasn't sure on this one. You convinced me to get it. H.F should thank you too. Thanks.
Thanks Morrison! I have another video on this sharpener showing some simple modifications to make it work better. Check it out if you haven't seen it yet. I'm very selective on what I buy there, and for the most part have been satisfied- especially for the cost. I have many reviews posted on their products as well that you might find useful. Look for my video on coupons/etc. There is a link in the description to a site where you can print off the 25% off coupon as well as other free items. Take advantage of the savings! Good luck, G.
I have several table saw, and skil-saw blades that I will try out the HFT sharpener on, now that I see your good results. Thanks!
Good deal Gary! I'm completely satisfied with the results, mainly due to getting more life out of blades that were truly unsafe to use any longer. They might not be as good as brand new, but getting more from one is good enough for me. Good luck and take care, G.
great video ! been wanting to buy one of these sharpeners but haven't for fear of difficulties of operations. you just made it operable ! thanks bub just got yourself a subscriber.
+ironmules MC
Thanks! For what it is, and what it costs- it does a fine job. Good luck, G.
Great video , I just sharpened two 80 tooth and one 60 tooth blade, can hardly wait to try them.
That's cool. Let me know how they work. Take care, G.
@@ghostses , used the 10 inch today , cut nice
Good deal! Thanks for the reply. Good luck, G.
hey thanks for that bit of info I already ordered over the weekend and I used the coupon with the president day sale that came out last Friday it makes a difference on the price and wheels. I'm sure after I sharpen my first blade it will have paid for itself. I make a lot of whirligigs and do lots of cutting and ripping from treated lumber. I'm so glad I found your video because I know that the setup will be way easy now that I can go back and watch your video if I get into a tight spot. I will be sure to leave you a message and let you know how it went... thanks again
oh BTW Rose is short for Roosevelt just wanted to let you know that.
+Rose Mccarty
No problem! I went back and edited my first response to remove the "Rose". I get a lot of comments from females as well, so I don't think twice about names or genders....lol.
I'm not sure if you've seen my initial review on this product. I do make some very simple mods to make it work better. I'll post a link to it as it might be useful. Take care, G.
th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
A very informative video..... you have done a great job,, going into details making it a thorough experience....
Thanks! Glad it was helpful. Take care, G.
Thanks for posting. I bought the same sharpener about 4 years ago and there were no instructions with it. I'll need to get it out of moth balls now. Thanks again
+Rich Parker
Rich, I couldn't reply to your post, for some reason, when you made it- so better late than never I guess...lol. I hope you dug it out and it's been serving you well. Let me know your experience. Good luck, G.
You can download a copy of the owner's manual from a harbor freights website just go to the sharpen page and scroll down
I bought this tool about three months ago and sharpened seven blades on it...three 10", and four 7". The first 10" I did is still cutting on the saw and the other two are ready for use later when needed. Further note: You can adjust the angle cut on the blades by
tipping the motor with and adjustment on the scale underneath the table...right or left.
That's cool, Joesph. I mentioned the ability to tilt the motor in the initial review of the tool but should have mentioned it here as well. Thanks and take care, G.
Thanks again for making this video.
No problem! G.
I am a TH-cam safety cop and you my friend are busted the length of that pencil eraser was well below OSHA standards. Seriously though thanks for posting the video I did not even know that Harbor Freight sold those I might have to get one.
No doubt Mike..lol. That's a good visual testament to how many mistakes I make!! Perhaps that should be the new measure of a man- how long is your eraser??? LOL. They're a bit of a pain to setup correctly, but work good past that. Catch it on sale, and use a %25 off coupon on top of that and it makes for a good gamble even if you end up not being satisfied. I have a video up with a link to the site for coupons and free stuff. Good luck, G.
The reviews I read recommended watching the video first. I'm glad I did! Thanks for pointing out the shortcomings and improvements. I'll swing by HF tomorrow on the way home and pick one up. I'll see how well it works on my dado set.
Tim, I'm really surprised the video was referenced as something to watch- that's super cool! I assume you've seen my initial review, but if you haven't you might check it out as well. Be sure to print a 25% off coupon and apply it to the purchase! I have a video on where to find the coupon if you want/need to locate one. Also print a coupon for something free from the same site- you might as well.
I see no reason it wont work for the outside blades on a dado set. I haven't thought of sharpening the chipper blades though. You might have to do them without using the pawl- but it should work.
Let me know how it works out. Good luck, G.
***** Only found a 20% coupon, close enough. I probably won't get to the dado set until this week-end. I figure the sharpener is cheaper than a new dado set. I have seen other videos for this sharpener that skip the pawl all together. I'll use that method to hit the chipper blades.
Tim Grace Yeah Tim, it looks like the 25% that was just there expired so they pulled it. I'm sure another will pop up soon. They keep the page updated nicely so keep it in mind if you ever purchase anything else from them. 20%'s still not bad for savings and is close enough like you said. If you have an old cheap blade, you might play around with it to get a feel for the machine before attacking your set. It is fickle to get setup. Either way, let me know how it works out! Good luck with it, G.
***** Did some of your suggestions, but found that the disk didn't stay square to the blade and didn't notice until I finished the second cutter blade on the dado set. I ended up tearing it all down, replaced a couple of bolts & nuts and added a couple of washers. The whole motor & disk tilt a little but on the draw into the blade, then straightens back out when I withdraw it, I removed the pawl, draw the disk to position and rotate the blade blade into the disk and hold the blade while I withdraw the disk. Re-did the dado set and it came out fine. Not as good as new, but close enough. It at least cuts now instead of beating the wood into submission!
Oh, and I did test on 3 different circular saw blades with missing teeth prior to getting comfortable enough to tackle a good, albeit dull, blade. Installed it and it cut beautifully. It wasn't until I started on the dado set that the squareness began to drift.
Thanks again for posting both of the videos!
Tim Grace Thanks for the update Tim! It sounds like yours had an issue mine didn't seem to have. Glad you found your way around it and came up with a technique that's working for you. I'm sure it will help others out. Take care, G.
Hi there. Just wanted to say thanks and job well done. I appreciate the mods in teh prior vid. Enjoyed the lesson as well. Regards
Thanks Buzz. Glad you found some information that may be useful to you. Take care, G.
I purchased one of these a few days ago and had a go at sharpening a couple blades tonight. As has been pointed out by others, set-up is a bit fiddly. The instruction manual is somewhat confusing, and the printing is too small for my eyes.
I had some difficulty setting up the blade stop, so I winged it without using the stop. Since I was grinding teeth without an angle, I simply pressed each tooth the same number of times against the diamond wheel, using the same amount of pressure each time.
I tested the blade on my table saw, obviously, and found it made a clean cut rip through a piece of Oak.
I paid $35.00 for the sharpener, as I had a 20% coupon, and it was already on sale. I believe it is well worth having. I have too many blades that have been collecting dust for years. So now I can use them.
Good info Daniel! I've been trying to stress the point, wherever I could, that it is fiddly on adjusting the pawl- but other than that the machine works pretty good as you've found. Thanks for giving others the info on how you've been using yours- without the pawl. I'm sure it will be a benefit. You're also correct about the manual. I noted that in my review video it was written in a language I didn't understand...lol. This machine is so inexpensive to purchase and will pay for itself after just a few uses- which is pretty cool in my book. Glad you're satisfied with your results. Thanks again and good luck, G.
I bought this sharpener and out of the box it was horrendously loose and not workable. After spending about three hours in the shop working and improving it, it is a nice tight well working sharpener. You must disassemble it completely.
For instance, take the bottom plate under the motor that tightens against the round rods and use a ball peen hammer to extend the sides so the piece fits snugly into it's place- no more moving or wobbling. Add a thin film of elect tape on the ends of the rods to tighten those connections. Remove the nut from the plastic knob that tightens the arm extension and drill it out to accept a 1/4" rod- now you can tighten it down with little effort. Make a washer to fit under the ext arm. The blade catcher is too loose- replace the washer above the spring with a thicker one- now it is tight. Too much to post here, but my machine is tight and all the parts don't move at all!
Good tips. I covered some mods in my original video review- but some that you've done will help others out for sure. Take care, G.
Great thorough review! Thanks ghostses!!
Thanks again Ed! G.
Great video. Well presented. Thank You
Thanks Jim! Take care, G.
Thanks G man I will be picking one up now that I see it will do the job. Cheers
No problem and good luck. I have another video on this that shows the tweaking I did to make it better. You might check it out, if you haven't already, to see what I did. Thanks, G.
Great video!
I'm not sure how this machine is but I've had tools or machines that were so hard to use and almost couldn't .....all because the manufacturing company used course threaded bolts. A simple fine thread bolt allows one to find that "sweet spot" to make an adjustment. Instead of being tight to loose with a slight adjustment with course threads!!
I know someone else has have this issue?! Haha!!
+cnvw974
Thanks! It's a little difficult to get dialed in, but it works pretty good. I know what you mean about course bolts and trying to make fine tuning adjustments! Take care, G.
You do a real good job of explaining how this thing works. I read that the diamond disc is not that good- have you replaced yours? can you link me to the supplier
Thanks! No I haven't replaced mine- or know of a supplier. It is a bit coarse, but works well enough for me. Take care, G.
After all this time, do you still use this machine? Have you made any additional Mods to it? I bet your surprised that comments are still coming on this video. It because you really did a excellent job. on it. What this machine has allowed me to do is lower my prices for a simple sharpening with the confidence that it is worth the value. I would still recommend a limit, however, At some point, the blade needs to be replaced or professionally reconditioned.
Thanks! I do still use it, but not all that often. No, no other mods have been made since this posting. I agree with all your points! Good luck, G.
I have this unit, lots of good tips, Thanks.
No problem! It works really well for me, G.
The only problem with face sharpening the insert is that it thins the carbide insert over its full length. This weakens the carbide after only a few sharpenings, leaving it prone to breakage.. It is possible to set this machine up to grind the top of the tooth, which removes far less of the insert. This removes a lot less carbide and the insert retains its thickness and strength. You can sharpen the blade a lot more times before the inserts become too weak to use.
I could be wrong, but I think the pro's would sharpen the faces and the tops. I just do the faces. If I can lightly sharpen 3-4 times- I'm happy. You can sharpen the tops using the emery wheel it comes with. I've never used it, nor know the procedure. I don't think just doing the tops would work well since the sides of the insert would continue to get duller and duller over time. Take care, G.
Did I miss it or did you forget to adjust the support post?
Thanks for the video, I think I will pick one of these up as I just had to purchase 2 more blades because like your 7 1/4" blade mine was missing teeth.
No Patrick, I simply forgot to adjust it. I mentioned it later in the video. For what they cost, they work pretty good and pay for themselves in short order. Be sure to look online for a 20% off coupon to save more. They're always out there to be had. After you get one, and play with a few blades- let me know how it works out for you. Good luck, G.
I have this tool, it pays for itself very fast. I used a sharpening service when I was a builder and the man who did the actual work told me blade cleanliness was of paramount importance so when I sharpen blades I do so after I clean the blade. It may well be just me but they feel sharper after just cleaning the whole blade. I just face sharpen mine and most are combo blades anyway as 80% of my material is hardwood plywood so ultra sharp is the only way to go. Even the bottom of the cut is very near splinter free. I do not use that "flipper" by the time I jerk around with that POS, I can have a blade finished. Just bring the tooth into contact, slide it about 4 strokes counting in and out and you have a razor edged blade.
That they do Pete! I fully agree, a clean blade is paramount. Router bits are the same. Sometimes that's all it takes to get one going again. Many have posted they sharpen theirs just about like you do- without using the pawl. Good to hear yours is working well for you. Take care, G.
I have one your machines. your video has help me very much. and you present it very well keep up the good work
+Fred Chandler
Thanks Fred! Good luck, G.
Excellent job, 👍👍👍
Thanks Dale. Take care, G.
I own an industrial sharpening business and I sharpen for a living and you should clean the blade before you sharpen! Wire wheel on a bench grinder works great, just use a very obtuse angle to be safe! You can also soak in 5 parts hot water 1 part dollar store laundry detergent for an hour then hit it with a SS hand brush! Or do both! You can’t actually see if you have sharpen properly if you can’t see the cutting edge clearly! If you need any help just let me know I don’t mind telling what little I know!
Great tips Floyd! Thanks for taking the time to comment. Good luck, G.
Seems like the left right adj of the far left blade arm pillar should be set so that a line drawn from diamond wheel face straight down would be parallel with blade tooth face and center of blade = a 90 deg grind
It might seem that way Jim, however the face of the tooth has a rake angle to the center line of the blade. Good luck , G.
Thanks for making this. I will definitely pick one of these up as I have a mountain of old dull blades sitting in a pile under my saw in a cabinet! Have you ever tried HF's chainsaw blade sharpener? Looks fairly similar to the circular sharpener, but I have never tried it. Just wondered. Keep cuttin!
No problem Jason! It should bring them back to life. Watch my other video on this tool, if you hadn't already, to see the modifications I've made to make it work better.
No, I haven't used their chainsaw sharpener so I don't have any opinion of it. Since I don't do all that much cutting, I just use the hand file on mine when it's needed.
Good luck, G.
Thanks! I just watched your 2HP dust collector video from HF... I have two of their 1HP models and have had no problems with them for several years.
Jason Goris
I really like the 2hp collector. It's proven itself to be a great purchase. I did add a pleated filter and built a separator to use with it as well. I do have videos posted for each. Sounds like the 1hp version they sell if another fine machine. Take care, G.
just set mine up, about to plug it in and get to work. i have about 30 blades. i knew hoarding them after they got dull was a good idea, and not just to throw at trees like giant throwing stars!
That's cool! You'll be setting there for a while for sure. Hope it works out well for you. Good luck, G.
From the way your lights dimmed when you started the vacuum and saw, I would say that you need to upgrade your wiring in your shop. It could be a fire hazard due to circuit overload.
Tony, I was using a temporary structure for working on my house. The lights, collector, and saw were all running on one 15amp circuit with 12 gauge wiring. But you are correct- in any permanent situation, they should be broken out on different circuits. Thanks for the post! Take care, G.
Impressed the blade cut that well with just the face sharpened. One suggestion. For face sharpening I wouldn't mess with the finger. Just real light free hand pressure on the face of the tooth. Save ya lot fiddling. Take care !
I was too! I've had comments stating that's the way others use theirs, instead of messing with the pawl. Good luck, G.
Hey pal-- have you sharpened any more blades ? Never let your blades get over dull, and probably, with just light face grinding --will keep you cutting with that tool. enjoyed your video.
plus what type of grinding wheel is that used for facing? sintered diamond or emery type?
Yes I have. They turned out great. I agree. These blades came with the saw and were in really bad shape. Glad you liked the video. Good luck, G.
It's a diamond wheel. HF does sell replacements. Take care, G.
Saved a $130 Dewalt 14" metal cutting blade. Saw sharpener $49 to $69 .... Good deal for sure. It's kind of flimsy but seems to do the job if you pay attention
That's great! Yours already paid for itself twice over. I agree, it's a little flimsy and takes some finesse to get setup properly but it will sharpen a blade as you've found. For me, it was a great buy. Take care, G.
I just picked one up for cheep at an estate sale. Your videos answered all my how to questions, thank you. Now that you've used it for a while, are you still satisfied with the sharpening results? In your opinion, does a saw sharpened with this remain as sharp for as long as a professionally sharpened blade?
+Roy Miller Good pickup Roy! I'm glad the video answered your questions. I am still satisfied with it for sure. I've never had a blade professional sharpened so I have no opinion regarding your question on longevity. I would assume a professionally sharpened blade, with much better equipment, would yield superior results. But, since I use fairly inexpensive blades- I would throw them out before having them sharpened professionally. With this unit, I do get more life from them so it works out well for me. Good luck, G.
+ghostses "But, since I use fairly INexpensive blades" FIXED it for ya G ;)
+KB in MD Last
I guess I don't get it. G.
+ghostses you wrote above: "But, since I use fairly expensive blades- I would throw them out before having them sharpened professionally" Did you mean expensive or INEXPENSIVE? :)
+KB in MD Last
LOL, I get it now. Good catch! It's been corrected. Fairly Inexpensive blades are what I use. Thanks, G.
yes sir. adding few different grits to this and it pays for itself the first blade you sharpen.
+WV591
Thanks! G.
Nice learning video. Thanks.
Thanks! G.
Very informative, thank you
No problem! Good luck, G.
What did you mean about not sharpening the top of the blade? Doesn't sharpening it like you did sharpen the top as well as all 4 sides of the tooth are sharpened?
+meedily
It came with an emery wheel and the manual said to use it if you were to sharpen the tops of the teeth. Why one would, I don't know. I agree with your comments! G.
I am about to buy a sharpener like that just watched your video 2 times.
do you ever weld band saw blades with electric welder I have a woodmizer and been welding them with silver solder but would like a electric one.
I have done 300 videos on utube my self=fatbeeman.
good work
+Don The Fat Bee Man
That's cool Don! I don't know if you've seen the review video, but I will include a link. It shows some simple mods that make it work better.
No, I've never welded or brazed band saw blades. Take care, G.
th-cam.com/video/uF0RfUvGtAI/w-d-xo.html
Electric welding (either arc or resistance) is the way the manufacturer probably does it initially. I don't think that makes it the best way to do it. A heat-effected zone is created around the weld when the base metal at the weld is brought to molten state and cooled off. Middle of zone (the weld) is left annealed unless you quench. Area around the weld has temper ruined. You would have to anneal the entire blade, weld, re-heat treat, quench, temper, normalize the ENTIRE blade as one. This all means that the silver soldering you are doing is a wonderful thing. You could try brazing. Welding normally will have a filler material of 70,000 lbs tensile strength. Brazing gives 90,000 lbs tensile strength!
skeggjold gunnr
Good info! G.
Very informative videos.
If a person has a worm driven large hand held circular saw where the blades mount by punching out the center round hole so you have a diamond, shaped mounting hole, do you think you could still easily rotate the blade to sharpen tooth by tooth. Or will it only work on round hole mounting blades? I am not sure if only the blade is rotating to sharpen each tooth or the whole post the blade is mounted on, is rotating. I see this was done in 2013, I hope you are still answering questions.
A diamond shaped hole shouldn't be a problem. Take care, G.
@@ghostses Hey, you are still answering questions. You probably don't even get notification anymore. Since not hearing anything. I had decided it probably would not work on on a diamond shaped hole. I was wrong again! Thanks for responding. Going to get me one and sharpen the 7-8 blades I have kept just incase I need to cut some really dirty wood. You know the kind, that has old concrete or something like that on it. They have been hanging on nails forever.
I am John. I may be slow but do still try to answer all questions. For what it costs, it's way worth the gamble. Especially for using it to cut nasty stuff. Let me know how it goes. Good luck, G.
@@ghostses Since I live a long ways from town, I ordered mine and finally received it. I tried it out on a diamond shaped hole and it worked just fine. Thanks for your help and video.
@@johntube2525 Good Info John! Glad it;s working out for you. Take care, G.
Thanks, this video help me a lot!☺
No problem! Good luck, G.
Pine on small saw, it looks nice.
+Thomas Shue
Thanks Thomas! I'm running an old 10" Craftsman contractor saw (probably just pre 90's) that's been extremely dialed in. Aside from a power difference, it runs like a cabinet saw! The sharpener, for what it is, works great once you get it dialed in. Good luck and take care, G.
Very informative, I'm gonna buy one too. (I hope you're on commission from the company!)
Thanks Paul. Nope, no commission or affiliation with HF. Just like to help folks out. Good luck, G.
Like everything of any brand some things are junk some things are good the only difference is that there is more of a junk possibility at hf but they also have lets say grinders there cheap ones better ones and "heavy duty" and they are not bad at all! Great review,how to vid on this item.
+Mod Mike
Agreed 100% Mike! They have some real gems here and there, but you do have to root them out. Other things should just be left on the shelf where they're found...lol. Some things just need minor modifications or tweaking to make them work better- this sharpener is one example. Over all I've had good luck with their stuff and saved a ton along the way. Glad you liked the review. Good luck, G.
I did the official thumbs up on it. I might have to go get one. Could save a good buck or two. I do wish you would have used some pushsticks man. Oof, made me nervous, but thanks for the video.
Thanks! I do use them, but probably not as often as I should. Good luck, G.
Please show how to use the emery wheel. Is it for carbide or high-speed steel only?
Tom, I believe the process of using the emery wheel is noted in the manual- but can't confirm. Personally, I've never used it. But, it should be OK to use it for both high-speed and carbide. Not much help- but good luck, G.
I'm impressed! But how accurate is that fence haha?
Thanks! The fence sure does look flaky in the video for sure...LOL. What you're seeing is a thin plastic strip on the fence that's loosing it's adhesive. I need to replace it. Thanks for the post, G.
I always, place pinky or pinky and next finger over over the fence as I slide the wood thru.
+Wink Butz
Wink, I realize this post was a year ago or so- but at the time I couldn't reply until now- for some reason.
It's interesting the technique you use and made me think of mine. While I don't ride my fingers over the fence like you do, I put my pinky on top of my ring finger and run my palm down the top of the fence. Very cool stuff! I've been cutting for ions and never thought much about my technique. Thanks for the post and take care, G.
Do you know if it will sharpen a blade with 1 1/4 in arbor
Thomas, I measured the cone on mine it it looks like it would max out at about 1.5"- so it should work just fine for 1.25". Good luck, G.
In the tool description (at Harbors site) It says up to 1”
@@ghostses I sharpened a blade with a 1 1/4" arbor hole by making an adapter out of a washer. The outside diameter of the washer is 1 1/4" and the diameter of the inner hole in the washer is just big enough to fit over the blade post.
@@christopherreed8263 That's a good solution! Tanks for the comment. Take care, G.
Oven cleaner works as good as anything cleaning pitch off blades (after all what is burned food but carbon based material like pitch?). Mist stings the lungs so a ventilated spot is a good idea. A 10 inch blade fits nicely in the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket. Spray, let it sit for a bit. Use an old toothbrush and the blade should clean up well. Always work for me. Maybe a second treatment if the blade is really bad.
Good tip! G.
Very useful. thanks
Thanks! G.
That first blade I sharpened is now on the saw and has been used for the entire time till now....and going just as sharp as when I did the sharpening.
That's great Joseph! I'd consider that a huge success. It sound's like it's already paid for itself- possibly more. Thanks for the update and take care, G.
ghostes I think you need a little help, with Blade identification. At the start of the Video you said that the Blade was a " Finishing " Blade, Then at the end you thought it was a "Combination" Blade. it is neither, it is a " Standard Construction" .
This Vid is very helpful. thank You..
+Mister Jack
I did call it a combination blade, but don't recall ever calling it a finishing blade. Please point me to the spot in the video so I can hear what I said. But yes, it's a standard construction blade. Glad you found it useful. Take care, G.
seems that would be correct, but looking at blade tooth face, they do not line up parallel with the blade center . . . my bad :)
LOL, it seems you've figured it out for yourself Jim! Take care, G.
To clean a blade on the cheap,just let it soak in inexpensive amonia.
It works perfect everytime.
Good tip! G.
Just want to say, as others, thanks for the video!
I've heard numerous reports on this sharpener about how it isn't the "right" way to sharpen blades, that you have to do the tops and sides etc....and of course, if we were all Bill Gates and could afford the time and money to buy the $5,000.00 machines and have someone on staff to simply sharpen our blades for us that'd be nice in a perfect world, but most of us don't live in that world.
One of the first things I learned when I became a carpenter is that a dull blade is infinitely more dangerous than a sharp one. If this machine is used to simply touch up slightly dull blades, it would pay for itself in no time. Where I live it costs about $1.50 a tooth and takes about 10 working days to get a blade professionally done....I have an 80 tooth melamine/veneer blade that cost me $120 new....to get it resharpened costs the same as a new blade....hence why I treat it like the hope diamond and never leave it in the saw.....when it becomes dull this machine would be paid for in one shot....
No problem Michael!
I have no doubt the correct way to sharpen a blade would include everything you've read but it would require a machine in the thousands to do it like you've said.
Yep, a dull blade no matter the type- knife, razor, saw, etc. is way more dangerous for sure. At those costs to sharpen a blade, I would treat mine like the hope as well. This isn't the greatest tool in the world, but it was only 30 something bucks! It may not produce professional or factory results, but it will revive a tired blade as seen. I don't use extremely expensive blades but it's already paid for itself!
I don't have a melamine blade since I've never worked with it. I'd be curious after sharpening one with this machine if it's still fairly chip free when making a cut. If you ever pick one up, and are willing to sacrifice one of your blades for testing, please let me know the results. I'm sure others would like to know as well. I guess you could always pay the piper to get it dressed back up if it didn't workout to your satisfaction. Good luck, G.
Even a razor sharp Melamine blade will give you some chip out on the bottom. What I do to minimize it is to make 2 cuts...the first one really REALLY shallow, basically just scoring the side facing the table, then do another pass with the blade raised to cut the rest of the way through.....
The only sure fire way to get no chip out is to get a table saw with a slitting blade in front. I worked in a shop that had a 120" slider Griggio. It had a 4" blade that turns in the opposite direction in front of the main blade...it was unnerving to use because even though it was only raised about 1/8", that was still enough to rip your palm apart if you didn't know it was there. We had an unwritten rule that if you used it, and didn't lower it back down when you were done, you got a kick in the rear.....
michael cochrane
Good tip on making a shallow cut first. I can see that by doing this, the blade exiting the cut would be at a narrow angle and reduce the chip out.
I can see where that would work great scoring with the first blade and finishing with the second. It would open up a good gash if you didn't know it was there, and agree with the unwritten rule! G.
michael cochrane ; I send my blades to Total Saw Solutions in WI. They'll cnc sharpen the face, top and sides of a 40 tooth blade and hammer and retention it for about $25 + shipping. I imagine an 80 tooth blade will cost around $40. Other than using their service, I'm not affiliated with them. But I am very happy with their work.
Good info, thanks.
Thanks James! Good luck, G.
Didn't read any other comments yet believe me or not, lol. But I'm pretty sure I'm not the first one to say that YOU are probably pissing a bunch of saw sharpener trade people off, not to mention the blade manufactures lmao. If I can get that saw sharpener half that good, it'll save me a TON of money. I have absolutely no reason not to try this.
LOL! Give one a go Anthony. Agreed, for the cost there's really no reason not to give one a try. Good luck, G.
Best low effort blade cleaner: any container that will hold your blade and liquid. Lay blade inside and pour straight liquid laundry soap until it covers the blade to at lease 1/8”
Leave it for at least 15-20 minutes. I leave mine overnight. But 15-20 minutes works while having lunch. Scrub any remaining resin with a tooth brush. Boom, done.
Great tips Jackson! Take care, G.
ghostses at 60 yrs old I’ve tried everything. This simply works. You’re welcome.
Good deal! G.
bought one today and sharpened 9/10 inch blades i even forgot i had lol
That's cool Slick! It's already paid for itself. Good luck, G.
the problem is they must have raised the price its 54.95 now ...........
That's probably partly my fault. I know they watch my reviews since they've contacted me before on a different video. And some things I note that need to be corrected with the products- they correct. This one's pretty popular and has sent many sales their way I'm sure. Still waiting for my kickback checks, but they're always "in the mail"...lol. Always look for a 20-25% off coupon online. It's a good way to save a few bucks. G.
How do you know what the pitch , bevel or degree of each tooth? Please
Buck, I use a tool like this. Good luck, G.
www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Square-Metal-Protractor/dp/B00004T7TB/ref=sr_1_4/145-1722407-9538404?ie=UTF8&qid=1501720158&sr=8-4&keywords=protractor+machinist
On the video that H/Freight did,it shows the saw blade is facing the other way (upside down to what you have here ?)
You are correct Robert, they do show the blade in backwards. They simply are not using the machine correctly in their video- oddly enough. What I show here should be the proper procedure. Good luck, G.
***** Thanks I have one of these on the way with your help should be a good tool!
robert nolan No problem! I hope it works out well for you. Good luck with it, G.
Very well Done ty
Thanks! Good luck, G.
I have read that carbide dust is not good to breathe ... I try to remember to wear a mask .
Thanks Dennis! Wearing a mask is a good idea. Take care, G.
Where do you find the 25% off coupons at
bella, you can find them here- as well as some free stuff. It's about halfway down the page. Good luck, G.
slickdeals.net/f/1276399-harbor-freight-coupon-thread
Good Job, you know like Hancock would ssay.
LOL. Thanks, G.
An easy way to clean up all the pitch and tar from a saw blade is just lay it down on a bench and spray it with oven cleaner.
Thanks for the tip! G.
Thanks for the video. I just want to clear some angles on the Tooth samples you had. I see you were talking about 10 degrees and that you marked it on the sample, but hell that looked like 80 degrees to me. So is the 25 degrees really 25 or is it 65 degrees. I just think that small mistakes like that might get your fingers cut off.
No problem Gerhardt! I answered your questions in a previous post, so I'm going to tack that response here. Hopefully it will make more sense. I could've/should've noted why I called them what I did, and left off the arcs and arrows. I can see how it could be confusing. Take care, G.
"The degrees are correctly labeled- the arrows not so much.
The references are from the waste side- not what's shown. I could have
been more clear here- but wasn't. Think about using a mitering chop saw.
You set the saw to 10 degrees because that's how the saw is marked.
It's not marked 80 degrees even though that's what you end up with-
depending on your reference. Thanks for the post, G. "
Oven cleaner works well for cleaning blades but it will eat the paint.
+David K Pettibone
I've heard of that, including eating any coating. I've used a product I got from WoodCraft but recently heard that using liquid laundry detergent works extremely well. I plan on trying it out since I always have it. Take care, G.
I tried the liquid laundry method worked great
you need an out feed table on your table saw!
+Kevin Gandy YES I DO Kevin!!! I have the saw setup in a temporary shelter and space is my problem. I use roller out-feed supports but didn't take the time to set one up for this clip. I hope someday I will have a large space where I can set up tables so I can manage full sheets of stock easily. Good luck and take care, G.
just wanted to say that carbide dust is dangerous if inhaled. So please take precautions everyone.
Yes it is, and thanks for the post. G.
you are welcome sir and keep up the good work.
Will do. Take care, G.
And the top of the tooth?
I only do the faces. Works fine for me. G.
Your angles are incorrectly labelled. It is actually 80 degrees on one face, 65 on the other. Not 10 and 25 like you have drawn. You meant to show the offset, but had nothing to write on!
Yes and no. The degrees are correctly labeled- the arrows not so much. The references are from the waste side- not what's shown. I could have been more clear here- but wasn't. Think about using a mitering chop saw. You set the saw to 10 degrees because that's how the saw is marked. It's not marked 80 degrees even though that's what you end up with- depending on your reference. Thanks for the post, G.
Máy này giá bao nhiêu
54.99US
www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html
You really couldn't ask for more than that.
Nope! I'm completely satisfied with it. Thanks again Greg, G.
bravo
Thanks! G.
"Fleam" we're talking.
Well I don't get it....lol.. G.
Kevin Chamberlain Well Kevin, at least we're on the same page! Good luck, G.
According to the HF website it will take up to a 15-3/4" blade. I have the 12" Compound Miter Saw from HF so looks like I'm pretty well covered, unless I buy a sawmill that has the 18" blades HAHA. This video is now over a year old. How's this sharpener holding up? I want to buy one to sharpen all the blades I have LOL. Especially now that I have more expensive blades.
Yeah William, it will handle some pretty large blades. You know you're going to end up with a sawmill- so just admit you have a problem, get one, and move on...lol.
It still works great. Keep in mind though I'm not a hardcore cutter so it's probably only been used 5-6 times. Well more than enough to pay for itself many times over though. For the cost, even with having to fiddle with it, you can't go wrong. Good luck, G.
***** I'd like to get one of the portable sawmills, but those use a very large bandsaw setup rather than circular type blades. There's been several times that I could have got some great lumber if I had one.
Thanks for the update on your sharpener as well. I absolutely try to avoid cutting through nails and such with my saws so the sharpener wouldn't get used very much probably about as often as yours LOL.
I do have the chainsaw sharpener as well, sharpened both my 16" chains in about 20 minutes once I got the sharpener all setup it was extremely easy. Both chains cut like brand new. That sharpener paid for itself in a couple uses as well.
Thanks again for your videos. Really enjoy your true to life reviews.
I'm not saying HF is a top of the line place to buy stuff, but darn it when something is relatively cheap it doesn't necessarily mean its total junk either. I've purchased quite a few HF brand tools this past year and have been quite satisfied. This saw blade sharpener is definitely on my list to buy. I've got a few blades I could put back into service with just a quick touch up.
William Todd Yeah, I've seen the bandsaw types. I can't remember what it's called, but I've seen another type of track system that can be used with a chainsaw. It looked pretty cool to me. It might be a good solution for you so check into it if you're ever on the hunt.
This sharpener is money well spent for sure!
Someone just asked me if I'd used their chainsaw sharpener. I don't cut all that much so I just sharpen my blades with a file. It sounds like you're satisfied with it. If I have ever have a need, I'll pick one up.
I'm glad you like my reviews. I try to show folks what to expect and for what cost.
No, their stuff is not top of the line but in most cases- they don't need to be. With the exception of a couple of items, I've been completely satisfied with all of my purchases. I do have tools from the top shelf on down. I make my decisions based on need, how much I think they will be used, and lastly the dollar amount. I try so show folks they can get into something inexpensively for a hobby/etc. Some folks simply might not have the budget for really expensive tools and might never explore their interests. HF fills in quite nicely here.
Let me know how the sharpener works out for you. G.
***** The chainsaw sharpener works great. It takes a little time to setup just as the circular saw blade sharpener but once its setup its really quick to sharpen a chain. Sharpen all the teeth going one direction. Flip the chain around and sharpen the teeth in the other direction. Its pretty quick, and works very well for a homeowner, or even someone that does a bit of logging work that doesn't want to spend a ton of money on a professional sharpener. I do have a set of files I carry with me when I'm up cutting firewood as well.
William Todd Good info! I took a quick peek at them online and $22.50 with a coupon sounds good to me. I just might have to put one on my wish list! G.
You could have done the same thing by hand and a diamond stone 300 grit
True. it's a pretty cool tool, does a good job, and is fast to use. I'm pleased with it. Good luck, G.
Nice! I like the fiddle parts about this that and the other! Give me your address I'll send you a push stick.
+James McIntyre
Thanks James! It does do a fine job after fiddling with it..lol. I have them, and do use them- but admit not as often as I should. Good luck, G.