I have Watched a lot of vids on harbor freight sharpening machine. Your the first I’ve seen showing the process all the way through. Thank you. Makes me see mine in a whole new light.
@@PawPawsWorkShop I have one of those Harbor freight sharpeners,, wondered what the grinding stone wheel was for...lol... this is by far the best video on the use of it.
Thank you for this video, sir. My wife just bought me this machine for Christmas as my miter saw blade is burning wood after cutting some old reclaimed lumber. I plan on sharpening it this spring before projects get underway, and this is the only video I've seen that covers everything step by step without getting frustrated and saying it needs to be altered. I liked and saved the video so I can watch the video again later to make sure I remember everything when the time comes. Best wishes to you and yours.
That is awesome! You’re very welcome. I’m so glad that is helped you. Remember to wear a mask when sharpening the carbine tip. You do not want to breath the dust. Also, I was playing with different wheels. Use the diamond wheel for your carbine tip blades.
Thank you, I just purchased this unit. I can figure things out but I was looking for a setup video. Like you said there are lots of reviews, I wanted to watch a setup and uses. I found yours, I thumb ups and subscribed.
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
Very informative. This product is sold as the Sealey SMS 2003 in the UK. It is practically identical. The top edge set for the tool was really useful as I had got to the state where I was going to take a sledge hammer to it.
I just found your video and watched it after watching another video on this unit. The other guy set his up improperly, and didn't, IMO, come anywhere to getting the results you did, and he never even mentioned the top grind. With all the blades I have accumulated over the last few decades, I can now purchase one of these units and it will pay for itself in just a few blades being properly sharpened. Thanks for the video.
More than excellent tutorial!! I just bought one of these HF Saw blade sharpeners to recover my investment in the numerous blades I have collected over the years. I have sharpened 2 blades so far; a practice on an old style style rip blade and my Bosch 80 tooth miter blade. Here are some discoveries that might help some of the folks on your channel: 1) Inspect the sharpener like a quality control person. I found that the nut on the arbor was bored and threaded off vertical causing the blades to wobble. I checked everything from the motor shaft to the thrust washers, and blades and nothing showed up. The last thing I checked was the 17mm x 1.5 nut on the arbor. Just turning the nut on the arbor showed that the nut wobbled! Not good and it took about 2 hrs to troubleshoot. 2) When adjusting the click-stop indexer, install another washer (2) under the bolt head to keep it from "walking" as you tighten the bolt. Same thing for blade rest and arm. After a few runs on my blades, they cut like brand new! Thanks again for a great video. You are an excellent teacher.
Thanks for the tip on the washers. After watching Paw Paw, I purchased the sharpener last weekend. I have been sizing up the issue of the indexing finger moving as i tighten it. I found that a 16mm open end fits the flat under the finger making it easy to do micro adjustments. I will add the washers next and hopefully this will be even easier.
Great video, thank you for posting. I enjoy Harbor Freights power tools, but I know going in I am going to have to tweak / modify upgrade nuts and bolts use lock tight in places.
I've been wanting to get that sharpener. It helped me make up my mine to get one. I own their chainsaw chain sharpener that I'm very happy with so I think this will be another good investment. Thank you
If you do don't sharpen the outside of a carbide blade. There's no need to. I have this sharpening tool and it works just fine sharpening the inside face only!
It's funny the h/f video of using this machine, does not facing the carbide tooth. Thank you for the lesson. I myself want to add this sharpening to my business portfolio. Thanks Again 😊
Thanks from the UK for your detailed guide. Was good to share the frustration trying to set up the angles. It's not a 5 minute job. It cost £75 here which is about $60 but they charge about $7 on average to sharpen blades here but I keep buying new ones as they often cost less than the sharpening charge and you don't have to wait or collect. However, I now have about 15 blades so the machine was a good investment....and we men like our toys?? Thanks again.
I wouldn’t buy one of these machines because of not being able to sharpen the top face. Now you just made a sale for harbor freight. Thanks for this video!
Excellent video! ❤subbed and liked 👍. I just sharpened my circular saw blade for aluminium (TCT) 5 minutes of sharpening but 1 hour to setup. Like everything it takes a few times and speed increases. Cheers from Australia 👍.
So I just bought this same one on clearance. The instructions state Stone wheel for steel, Diamond of Carbide. The emery Stone wheel comes with 2 Washers that should be used to replace the bushings used of the diamond wheel as well. Outside of that, really good instructions for setting up and facing the blade.
Thanks for posting video. Anyone else noticed carbide teeth getting chipped with the delivered diamond wheel which is quite course. You may need a good magnifier or jewlers loop to get a good view of teeth pre and post sharpening.
I have found the same problem. Not sure how to fix it, unfortunately. I'm searching around for solutions at the moment. Kind of a bummer! Mine cut very poorly after "sharpening".
Thanks for showing the functions of this sharpener. As I have trouble finding flat top blades for the table saw, can you tell if the sharpener can be positioned to REGRIND THE BEVELED TOP BLADES TO HAVE A FLAT TOP? I'm surer some carbide will be lost making such a transformation to the teeth. As I use flat top blades almost exclusively, this may solve the problem of blades being hard to find!
The other thing I noticed that you didn't show was the stop mechanism that stops the sharping disk from cutting to far into the blade but again great vid
Needs a bigger washer on the increment stop and maybe a handle instead of just a nut. Less movement and more secure when setting. Setup video is a great move as most people don't go into detail on the most critical part. Great video!
its a great video , father paw always be careful with blades i just hate them , and i like to call you father i remember my father when i watch you he was a mechanic.god bless you father paw.
Enjoy your video, suggestion, get a closer view of the top of the tooth grinding. I had to up the video up in my 75” tv to see How you did it. Thanks for the lesson.
I noticed two parts that you didn't read the manual close enough. The part where it said the Emery wheel can only be used to sharpen steel tips. And installing the emery wheel you needed to remove the inner and outer flange and replace them with the flange washers.
Yes, that's true... But how to sharpen the teeth top with the flat diamond wheel. I din't find any position allowing to do that (blade will allways touch the nut of the wheel!!!) . Who knows how to do that? Maybe we need to buy a spécial diamond wheel with an angle...?
Your comment is debatable! I've sharpened circular saw TCT aluminium blades using a dremel and whatever sandpaper or stones I had! Another sharper afterwards!
Thank you for this video! You start where the others stop, and provide, as Paul Harvey used to say, "The Rest of the Story." I know there are blades where the top bevels alternate left, right and flat. Would I be correct to assume that only the grinder anglre changes to address the flat top teeth?
To have an "identical" sharpening on each tooth, I would set the blade locking pin on a more acute angle in order to reach the bottom of the tooth with it. Indeed, by relying on the flat of the carbide plate, at the end of sharpening we rely on teeth "already reduced in thickness". As a result, the last sharpened teeth will be reduced by twice the initial thickness selected. What do you think about of my feeling?
I believe you are correct Sir! I was seeing this happening in another video where the sharpener was getting off after 20 teeth or so. Thanks for the observation!
Yeeesss you're right!!! Good observation! I would add: pay attention to dirty balades. Resin on teeth faces will be a problem! It's very important to clean balades before sharpening!
nice vid, I'm sure many will find it very helpful. I would say the "stop' (we called them fingers in the old days ) just needs to be barely down in the throat of the tooth, not all the way to the bottom. . As long as the teeth are in decent shape and clean you'll find it alot easier to rotate the blade. again, well done
I find it HARD to get the right angle. I've tried permanent markers. It seems as; get started good something changes on the blade. I tried an Oldham today and something changed.. but after I put it on my table saw it cut like butter. I've been cutting with same blade now for a year or better WOW what a nice change.. thanks for the video😇
I have seen many of the videos of blade sharpening with this rig. I always knew that there was an angle they were always missing. Thank you for showing a complete sharpening. Speaking of the top angle, I have a question. Blades come with alternating points so that when you cut a dado with a single blade, you get little ridges from the center of the blade. These are resolved by flat-tooth blades. Can you use this rig to flatten the blades so they produce flat cuts? Are there any limitations to the design of the blades that might prevent this from working?
I have watched a couple of these how to,s and not once has anyone shown the adjustment to stop the motor from coming forward and cutting into the gullet.
Excellent comprehensive video, the only one that shows the top face being sharpened. The only thing that was not quite clear is why the new wheel was necessary. Could we have sharpened the top face using the original wheel it came with? or do we have to buy another one like you had to be able to do it. You did not spend too much time explaining that point.
@@PawPawsWorkShop I was referring to the angle on both wheels. You made it sound like the second wheel had the angle necessary to do the face surface but the first wheel did not.
So you used the emery blade for the carbide tops rather than the diamond? Could you still use the diamond blade? Would hate to wear out the emery blade, and the manual says only to use it for steel.
Mate you don't want to set the stop so it touches the tooth because when you get all the way round the blade the last few teeth will be sharpened with the stop resting on teeth that have already been sharpened making for a deeper cut on the last few teeth, set it to touch against the gulley which never changes. The other wheel is not for use on the TC teeth it is for sharpening HSS blades. You shouldn't be sharpening the top of the teeth, doing it freehand like that you cannot be totally accurate and you will end up with some teeth longer than others and the longer teeth will be doing all the work from then on.!!
If alternating teeth on the top face are different angles, why aren't the front faces also different angles? Is it just the way the carbide tips are cut?
It all depends of the design of the blade. There are many different designs by many different manufactures. You must look at each blade to see the tooth design. Thank you very much.
When you get done facing off every other head on one side, can't you just take the blade off flip it upside down to do the rest of the heads without having to make more adjustments to the angle?
It's been said in other vids on this machine that the wheel is about 150 grit and you need to finish above 300 grit if you want longer lasting teeth. But someone commented that you have to change arbors to do that? Wouldn't just flipping the blade over line up the emery wheel with the opposed teeth?
I noticed with the original HF diamond wheel it's very coarse and it is chipping the carbide teeth on a few of my blades. I am going to try a few different 800 gri and 1000 grit wheels. I have a metal lathe so I can make an arbor adapter. Most diamond wheels I am seeing are not 20 mm.
@@garyk5316 You can just use the emery wheel that came with it...that's what I did. Less chance of making a mistake in the gullet and easy to work with. I think most HF's even carry spare emery wheels.
Take time to show the set up on angle s besides a 90 degree, this angle is shown 99% of the time. I have one and get the joints tight. Thanks for the demo.
Throw away the wrenches they don't fit the arber nut was on so tight I had to use a socket set to get it off than had to drill out the alien head on motor it was so tight and the alien wrench stripped it out so bought new ones that was just out of the box tomorrow I will start sharing my blades but real good video thanks
Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I noterest that you did not use a Dimond grinding wheel to grind the face of the tooth we use a 12A2 180 grit your tooth rest should be at the tooth behind the one you are sharpening the top of should be at same angle on both sides the the top of the tooth {point on each tooth] these are the scribers these do most of the cutting that gives you good finish the saw you sharen is a ATB type blade our company does a lot of sharpening of all types cutters all the best Kevin.
Some blades especially combo blades the teeth are angled about 7 degrees. The teeth alternate. You have to setup the correct angle and grind every other tooth. Then, change the angle to do the remaining alternating teeth. The blade that I was showing on the video was straight. The top crown is the only part at an angle.
I wish you can show if the HF sharpening tool is designed to do angled tooth face. All vids ive seen did it on 90 degrees setting. We guys will appreciate if you do so we can make use of our angled face sawblades too.
I think it can be any size because the cone shape on the sharpener forces the blade to be centered. My blade is 4 1/2” with 3/8” hole. It just barely goes over the bolt on the sharpener.
I don't understand why the need to change the diamond disc to the other disc when grinding the TOP face; after all, the TOP face is the same material as the other faces.
Blade has "Combination" on it, yet you were sharpening it as a rip blade at first??? Next you are showing the same blade, having alternating angled teeth, which I expected, and you are explaining that you need to setup for sharpening a combination or crosscut blade for the alternating angles, as I expected. I am confused. Thinking for a minute and watching more...... OH, ....I get it, just the top of this blade has alternating angles. That I didn't expect. So the 90 degree is for ripping and the alternating top angle does the cross cutting. I will have to have a closer look at my blades.
NEVER use the sharpened part of the tooth to set the position of the next tooth. your "locking mechanism" needs to be resting against a part of the tooth that doesn't get sharpened, or it'll shift more and more out of alignment with the tooth spacing and you'll ruin your blade.
I know this is quite some time again, but, one must be aware of the dangers of tungsten carbide, the stuff the teeth are made of, it is dangerous to sharpen without proper protection, the dust will not only cut your lungs up, but it contains heavy metals that will poison you over time. if you must sharpen blades, please wear the proper respirator cartridges and do it outside. and look up the CDC warning and dangers of this material
This device must cost a fortune! Cheaper to buy a new blade surely? I have heard that TC tips can get a build up on them and normally just need cleaning with detergent.
Don’t buy one, steel nuts, going on aluminum threads, they will strip with only one or two use. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame shame on me. You did a good job on the video, do it a few times and you will change your mind about the machine.
If you strip a thread, it is you who is doing it wrong. I have a similar machine, it is cheaply made, but it does what it is supposed to do. I needed 4 new blades, the machine cost less than a single blade. Now all my blades are as good as new. The machine works fine and it will save you a lot of money.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Hi. I own this same machine. For me it is sharp in your video at 8:55. I respect your own methodology but don't spread disinformation. Please give me just one possible reason why you need to hit the outside of this blade unless it's been chipped?
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I have Watched a lot of vids on harbor freight sharpening machine. Your the first I’ve seen showing the process all the way through. Thank you. Makes me see mine in a whole new light.
Wow, thanks!
@@PawPawsWorkShop I have one of those Harbor freight sharpeners,, wondered what the grinding stone wheel was for...lol... this is by far the best video on the use of it.
I agree with you Robert and Roger. 2 years later... but I agree!!!
Thank you for this video, sir. My wife just bought me this machine for Christmas as my miter saw blade is burning wood after cutting some old reclaimed lumber. I plan on sharpening it this spring before projects get underway, and this is the only video I've seen that covers everything step by step without getting frustrated and saying it needs to be altered.
I liked and saved the video so I can watch the video again later to make sure I remember everything when the time comes.
Best wishes to you and yours.
That is awesome! You’re very welcome. I’m so glad that is helped you. Remember to wear a mask when sharpening the carbine tip. You do not want to breath the dust. Also, I was playing with different wheels. Use the diamond wheel for your carbine tip blades.
Thank you, I just purchased this unit. I can figure things out but I was looking for a setup video. Like you said there are lots of reviews, I wanted to watch a setup and uses. I found yours, I thumb ups and subscribed.
Thank you very much and thanks for watching
Thanks so much great video. I’ve seen other videos about the sharpener and no one went into detail like you did thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I was a little worried about installing the blade after reading a couple of reviews. But it was amazingly easy. Took about 1 minute. Works great th-cam.com/users/postUgkxjpBI8OOeUXib_iT7UomCrQ-uauwZJ62c . Cuts easily and is perfect for pocket cuts I needed to make for replacing some old deck boards.
Nice job, simple precise and to the point. well done!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching
Very informative. This product is sold as the Sealey SMS 2003 in the UK. It is practically identical. The top edge set for the tool was really useful as I had got to the state where I was going to take a sledge hammer to it.
Thank you very much. It is a good basic tool which will save money over time by not replacing blades
Nice video on how to do both the face and top edge. Thanks for posting
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
Great educational lessons. I enjoyed and learned immensely.
Glad you enjoyed it!
That was the best video on this subject I have found. Great job and looking foward to many more to come.
Thank you very much. I appreciate you watching the video
I just found your video and watched it after watching another video on this unit. The other guy set his up improperly, and didn't, IMO, come anywhere to getting the results you did, and he never even mentioned the top grind. With all the blades I have accumulated over the last few decades, I can now purchase one of these units and it will pay for itself in just a few blades being properly sharpened. Thanks for the video.
You’re welcome. I’m glad it helped you
More than excellent tutorial!! I just bought one of these HF Saw blade sharpeners to recover my investment in the numerous blades I have collected over the years. I have sharpened 2 blades so far; a practice on an old style style rip blade and my Bosch 80 tooth miter blade. Here are some discoveries that might help some of the folks on your channel: 1) Inspect the sharpener like a quality control person. I found that the nut on the arbor was bored and threaded off vertical causing the blades to wobble. I checked everything from the motor shaft to the thrust washers, and blades and nothing showed up. The last thing I checked was the 17mm x 1.5 nut on the arbor. Just turning the nut on the arbor showed that the nut wobbled! Not good and it took about 2 hrs to troubleshoot. 2) When adjusting the click-stop indexer, install another washer (2) under the bolt head to keep it from "walking" as you tighten the bolt. Same thing for blade rest and arm. After a few runs on my blades, they cut like brand new! Thanks again for a great video. You are an excellent teacher.
Awesome! Thank you very much for the information
Thanks.
Thanks for the tip on the washers. After watching Paw Paw, I purchased the sharpener last weekend. I have been sizing up the issue of the indexing finger moving as i tighten it. I found that a 16mm open end fits the flat under the finger making it easy to do micro adjustments. I will add the washers next and hopefully this will be even easier.
Great video, thank you for posting. I enjoy Harbor Freights power tools, but I know going in I am going to have to tweak / modify upgrade nuts and bolts use lock tight in places.
Thank you this has been the best yet ,and a great help
I've been wanting to get that sharpener. It helped me make up my mine to get one. I own their chainsaw chain sharpener that I'm very happy with so I think this will be another good investment. Thank you
You're welcome. Just remember it take some patience to set it up but once done, it works well.
If you do don't sharpen the outside of a carbide blade. There's no need to. I have this sharpening tool and it works just fine sharpening the inside face only!
Really enjoyed your video sir. Answered many of my questions.
Awesome
Thank you for the great explanation and the video.
Glad it was helpful!
It's funny the h/f video of using this machine, does not facing the carbide tooth. Thank you for the lesson. I myself want to add this sharpening to my business portfolio.
Thanks Again 😊
You are welcome!
Good video not to many others actually show everything right to the point
Thank you
Thanks from the UK for your detailed guide. Was good to share the frustration trying to set up the angles. It's not a 5 minute job. It cost £75 here which is about $60 but they charge about $7 on average to sharpen blades here but I keep buying new ones as they often cost less than the sharpening charge and you don't have to wait or collect. However, I now have about 15 blades so the machine was a good investment....and we men like our toys?? Thanks again.
You're welcome! I have done the same thing and buy new. This is so much better and it saves a lot of money. Thank you very much.
£75 is just over $100 FYI 👌🏻
Great vid thankyou I just bought the same unit and was wondering how this was done for the back cut
Thank you very much.
I wouldn’t buy one of these machines because of not being able to sharpen the top face. Now you just made a sale for harbor freight. Thanks for this video!
Thank you very much.
Thank you for doing this.I really thought you would sharpen the angle from the start
I hope my answer in the other question you had. Thank you
Excellent video! ❤subbed and liked 👍. I just sharpened my circular saw blade for aluminium (TCT) 5 minutes of sharpening but 1 hour to setup. Like everything it takes a few times and speed increases. Cheers from Australia 👍.
Awesome! Thank you! I appreciate you very much.
Thank you for a very informative video.
You are welcome!
So I just bought this same one on clearance. The instructions state Stone wheel for steel, Diamond of Carbide. The emery Stone wheel comes with 2 Washers that should be used to replace the bushings used of the diamond wheel as well. Outside of that, really good instructions for setting up and facing the blade.
Thank you for sharing this information
Thanks for posting video.
Anyone else noticed carbide teeth getting chipped with the delivered diamond wheel which is quite course.
You may need a good magnifier or jewlers loop to get a good view of teeth pre and post sharpening.
I have found the same problem. Not sure how to fix it, unfortunately. I'm searching around for solutions at the moment. Kind of a bummer! Mine cut very poorly after "sharpening".
Thanks for showing the functions of this sharpener. As I have trouble finding flat top blades for the table saw, can you tell if the sharpener can be positioned to REGRIND THE BEVELED TOP BLADES TO HAVE A FLAT TOP? I'm surer some carbide will be lost making such a transformation to the teeth. As I use flat top blades almost exclusively, this may solve the problem of blades being hard to find!
The other thing I noticed that you didn't show was the stop mechanism that stops the sharping disk from cutting to far into the blade but again great vid
Thanks for pointing that out. It's hard to include everything and still keep the video relative short.
Thanks. I needed to see how to do the face sharpen.
You’re very welcome
Hartelijk dank voor deze video ik heb erg veel aan gehad had nog beter geweest inhet Nederlands toch bedankt Ger Boerdijk
You are very welcome
Needs a bigger washer on the increment stop and maybe a handle instead of just a nut. Less movement and more secure when setting. Setup video is a great move as most people don't go into detail on the most critical part. Great video!
Thanks for the suggestions.
its a great video , father paw always be careful with blades i just hate them , and i like to call you father i remember my father when i watch you he was a mechanic.god bless you father paw.
Thank you very much. It is an honor.
Thanks for the info very informative
Glad it was helpful!
Enjoy your video, suggestion, get a closer view of the top of the tooth grinding. I had to up the video up in my 75” tv to see
How you did it. Thanks for the lesson.
Got my sharpener yesterday. Great video to show me how to use this thing properly
Thanks
Enjoy it. Glad that I could help
I noticed two parts that you didn't read the manual close enough. The part where it said the Emery wheel can only be used to sharpen steel tips. And installing the emery wheel you needed to remove the inner and outer flange and replace them with the flange washers.
Thank you for the information.
@@PawPawsWorkShop Amen. I was waiting for someone to notice.
Good point! You answered my question!
Yes, that's true... But how to sharpen the teeth top with the flat diamond wheel. I din't find any position allowing to do that (blade will allways touch the nut of the wheel!!!) .
Who knows how to do that?
Maybe we need to buy a spécial diamond wheel with an angle...?
Your comment is debatable! I've sharpened circular saw TCT aluminium blades using a dremel and whatever sandpaper or stones I had! Another sharper afterwards!
Thank you for this video! You start where the others stop, and provide, as Paul Harvey used to say, "The Rest of the Story." I know there are blades where the top bevels alternate left, right and flat. Would I be correct to assume that only the grinder anglre changes to address the flat top teeth?
Thank you very much for your kind words. You are correct in your assumption. Thank you for you comment and for watching my channel
Thank you sir , it will help me out
Glad to hear that. Thank you for watching
Thank you, not body has done a quality job of describing the top grind
Thank you very much.
To have an "identical" sharpening on each tooth, I would set the blade locking pin on a more acute angle in order to reach the bottom of the tooth with it. Indeed, by relying on the flat of the carbide plate, at the end of sharpening we rely on teeth "already reduced in thickness". As a result, the last sharpened teeth will be reduced by twice the initial thickness selected.
What do you think about of my feeling?
I believe you are correct Sir! I was seeing this happening in another video where the sharpener was getting off after 20 teeth or so. Thanks for the observation!
Yeeesss you're right!!!
Good observation!
I would add: pay attention to dirty balades. Resin on teeth faces will be a problem! It's very important to clean balades before sharpening!
Excellent, thank you!
You’re welcome. Glad that the video helped you
nice vid, I'm sure many will find it very helpful. I would say the "stop' (we called them fingers in the old days ) just needs to be barely down in the throat of the tooth, not all the way to the bottom. . As long as the teeth are in decent shape and clean you'll find it alot easier to rotate the blade. again, well done
I find it HARD to get the right angle.
I've tried permanent markers. It seems as; get started good something changes on the blade. I tried an Oldham today and something changed.. but after I put it on my table saw it cut like butter. I've been cutting with same blade now for a year or better WOW what a nice change.. thanks for the video😇
Awesome
Great tip.
Thank you very much
Thank you 😊
You’re very welcome
Thank you so much
You're most welcome
Nice video, good information. Surprised you don’t have issues with the tool with no mods? Thanks much, SteveK
Not at all. Sometimes people over think problems that are not there.
I love how your Safety shield is up the whole time , but great Video
Yep! It stayed exactly where I put it. Amazing!
I couldn't use the sheild. I guess the older you get the less safe you are rofl!! 🤔🤪😁
THANK YOU SIR!!!
Most welcome!
Good educational video
Thank you very much
You could purchase 2 of these and set the second one up with the emory disc. Save a lot of time if you have a number of blades
Excellent suggestion thank you
I have seen many of the videos of blade sharpening with this rig. I always knew that there was an angle they were always missing. Thank you for showing a complete sharpening.
Speaking of the top angle, I have a question.
Blades come with alternating points so that when you cut a dado with a single blade, you get little ridges from the center of the blade. These are resolved by flat-tooth blades.
Can you use this rig to flatten the blades so they produce flat cuts? Are there any limitations to the design of the blades that might prevent this from working?
You're welcome. It is harder to set up but it is very important to do if you truly want a sharp blade.
Buck McDaniel it is not recommended. It changes the geometry and takes too much of the tooth away. You are better off purchasing the correct blade
Great video, but I am not understanding why you switched to a convectional grinding wheel to TOP the carbide teeth?
Thank you very much. I always test and try different things that are not always the traditional way
Where did you find that angled emory blade? it looks like the unit comes with a flat emory blade. Great video!
It came with the grinder
I have watched a couple of these how to,s and not once has anyone shown the adjustment to stop the motor from coming forward and cutting into the gullet.
Thank you, that important also.
Excellent comprehensive video, the only one that shows the top face being sharpened. The only thing that was not quite clear is why the new wheel was necessary. Could we have sharpened the top face using the original wheel it came with? or do we have to buy another one like you had to be able to do it. You did not spend too much time explaining that point.
You want to use a diamond wheel. I was playing with different wheels for my own tests unrelated to the video
@@PawPawsWorkShop I was referring to the angle on both wheels. You made it sound like the second wheel had the angle necessary to do the face surface but the first wheel did not.
Thank you
My pleasure
So you used the emery blade for the carbide tops rather than the diamond? Could you still use the diamond blade? Would hate to wear out the emery blade, and the manual says only to use it for steel.
Yes, absolutely. I was just doing my own test. Use the diamond blade. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for watching
Mate you don't want to set the stop so it touches the tooth because when you get all the way round the blade the last few teeth will be sharpened with the stop resting on teeth that have already been sharpened making for a deeper cut on the last few teeth, set it to touch against the gulley which never changes.
The other wheel is not for use on the TC teeth it is for sharpening HSS blades.
You shouldn't be sharpening the top of the teeth, doing it freehand like that you cannot be totally accurate and you will end up with some teeth longer than others and the longer teeth will be doing all the work from then on.!!
Thank you very much for the information. You have some excellent ideas.
@@PawPawsWorkShop because he is 100% correct
So then on these carbide tipped blades you don't do anything to the top of them?
@@bodeine454Did you get an answer to this question? I saw one comment that said the carbide tips were chipping with the diamond blade.
@@rbhughbanks No, I don't believe I did. My comment was a year ago, I don't really remember.
Just 1 question
When sharpening the tips with the angle is there a certain degree of pitch or did u just line it up bye eye
Usually just by eye
If alternating teeth on the top face are different angles, why aren't the front faces also different angles? Is it just the way the carbide tips are cut?
It all depends of the design of the blade. There are many different designs by many different manufactures. You must look at each blade to see the tooth design. Thank you very much.
The Emery blade: does it come with the sharpener or do you need to buy it separately? What is the part Number?
It comes with the grinder.
I can not get the other side the tilt on the motor
Very nice tool. How can I buy one like this?
I purchased this one from Harbor Freight.
When you get done facing off every other head on one side, can't you just take the blade off flip it upside down to do the rest of the heads without having to make more adjustments to the angle?
It's been said in other vids on this machine that the wheel is about 150 grit and you need to finish above 300 grit if you want longer lasting teeth. But someone commented that you have to change arbors to do that? Wouldn't just flipping the blade over line up the emery wheel with the opposed teeth?
You can’t just flip the blade over. It’s not going to align
I noticed with the original HF diamond wheel it's very coarse and it is chipping the carbide teeth on a few of my blades. I am going to try a few different 800 gri and 1000 grit wheels. I have a metal lathe so I can make an arbor adapter. Most diamond wheels I am seeing are not 20 mm.
@@garyk5316 You can just use the emery wheel that came with it...that's what I did. Less chance of making a mistake in the gullet and easy to work with. I think most HF's even carry spare emery wheels.
Take time to show the set up on angle s besides a 90 degree, this angle is shown 99% of the time. I have one and get the joints tight. Thanks for the demo.
I'll look through my saw blade and see what I can find. Thank you for the suggestion.
Can you please tell me where you get the Emery Blade from? It would be very helpful thanks.
These emery blades came with the grinder. They are available on Amazon
@@PawPawsWorkShop I tried searching on Amazon and couldn’t find the grinder nor the Emery blade. Can you send me the link?
If you live in Paw Paw, WV I'm gonna die laughing at the awesome.
lol
a1locksandkeys “
Can you flip the blade instead of resetting the machine in touching the top of the blade?
No, unfortunately I have not been able to do that.
After setting the angle for the top, could you not just flip the blade and not go thru the opposite angle adjustment?
Thank you for the information.
Paw Paw’s WorkShop oh, I was asking, I'm not positive that would work!
No, the teeth are cut the opposite direction
Using an emery wheel for grinding carbide? You may be able to clean up the surface a little but that's about it.
Thanks
Throw away the wrenches they don't fit the arber nut was on so tight I had to use a socket set to get it off than had to drill out the alien head on motor it was so tight and the alien wrench stripped it out so bought new ones that was just out of the box tomorrow I will start sharing my blades but real good video thanks
It still a lot of work to sharpen the blade Is it worth it or buy a new blade
If you can afford new blades go for it. It is always nice to have a new blade but in my shop that is not possible.
How come your not sharpening alternate teeth,different angle?
Some blades are flat with a 7 degree angle and no bevel.
بكام السعر الحالي منين اشتري
Hi my name is Kevin from Aus I noterest that you did not use a Dimond grinding wheel to grind the face of the tooth we use a 12A2 180 grit your tooth rest should be at the tooth behind the one you are sharpening the top of should be at same angle on both sides the the top of the tooth {point on each tooth] these are the scribers these do most of the cutting that gives you good finish the saw you sharen is a ATB type blade our company does a lot of sharpening of all types cutters all the best Kevin.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge. I really appreciate it very much
Ok,so I’m a little confused. When I looked at my 40 tooth combo blade the whole tooth looks like it’s on an angle.
Some blades especially combo blades the teeth are angled about 7 degrees. The teeth alternate. You have to setup the correct angle and grind every other tooth. Then, change the angle to do the remaining alternating teeth. The blade that I was showing on the video was straight. The top crown is the only part at an angle.
@@PawPawsWorkShop ok thank you.
I wish you can show if the HF sharpening tool is designed to do angled tooth face. All vids ive seen did it on 90 degrees setting. We guys will appreciate if you do so we can make use of our angled face sawblades too.
alternate beveled tooth blade??
When sharpening you have to alternate because of the tooth angle.
What is the hole size of the cutting blade?
I think it can be any size because the cone shape on the sharpener forces the blade to be centered. My blade is 4 1/2” with 3/8” hole. It just barely goes over the bolt on the sharpener.
Mochas.grasias.x.el.video.yo.ya.tengo.ese.afilador.pero.afilaba.el.disco.pero.todavia.saca.humo.
If you are sharpening carbide tip blades make sure that you switch to the diamond blade.
How about plywood blades
I don't understand why the need to change the diamond disc to the other disc when grinding the TOP face; after all, the TOP face is the same material as the other faces.
It was for my own simple test. The diamond disc is the best. Thank you for asking
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks for replying.
Why are you not using a diamond wheel to sharpen the top face of the CARBIDE teeth ?????
Simply put, I forgot to install the diamond wheel. I was concentrating on producing the video without concern for the wheel. Ooopps
Why couldn't you just flip the blade over to do the second facing ?
The angle is all different
Hey this is the video John Johnson
I want buy this machine
Good choice.
Mark the face of the tooth with a magic marker
Blade has "Combination" on it, yet you were sharpening it as a rip blade at first???
Next you are showing the same blade, having alternating angled teeth, which I expected, and you are explaining that you need to setup for sharpening a combination or crosscut blade for the alternating angles, as I expected. I am confused.
Thinking for a minute and watching more......
OH, ....I get it, just the top of this blade has alternating angles. That I didn't expect. So the 90 degree is for ripping and the alternating top angle does the cross cutting. I will have to have a closer look at my blades.
Todavía nolose.como.manejar.el.afilador
It takes time and practice
NEVER use the sharpened part of the tooth to set the position of the next tooth. your "locking mechanism" needs to be resting against a part of the tooth that doesn't get sharpened, or it'll shift more and more out of alignment with the tooth spacing and you'll ruin your blade.
Thank you. Excellent point
I know this is quite some time again, but, one must be aware of the dangers of tungsten carbide, the stuff the teeth are made of, it is dangerous to sharpen without proper protection, the dust will not only cut your lungs up, but it contains heavy metals that will poison you over time.
if you must sharpen blades, please wear the proper respirator cartridges and do it outside.
and look up the CDC warning and dangers of this material
Thanks for the information
@@PawPawsWorkShop just trying to reduce people accidently hurting themselves.
keep up the great videos.
Thanks for the info. I didn’t know.
This device must cost a fortune! Cheaper to buy a new blade surely? I have heard that TC tips can get a build up on them and normally just need cleaning with detergent.
It not expensive and you can sharpen a blade appropriately three times at $30 per sharping. You’ll pay for it quickly
@@PawPawsWorkShop Thanks. What is your opinion on cleaning the blades from resin build up using detergent?
That is fine.
I just bought this one at Harbor Freight fro $44.97 on 8/16/23.
@@rbhughbanks You can double that in the UK.
Why on earth do people use wooden inserts where the saw blade is. Normally speaking the saw makers provides a blade insert!
It is because of the tear out of the wood that is being cut.
The saw makers inserts leave much to be desired. Do some research and you'll understand.
Cool vid but easier for me to pay someone to sharpen my blades. I generally need 5 done every few months and they are all different blade types.
Cool, I have absolutely no one in this area that sharpens blades.
Rs
Not sure what that means
Please stop saying I will GO AHEAD. It is just not necessary. Nice job on the video.
Thank you for the feedback
Don’t buy one, steel nuts, going on aluminum threads, they will strip with only one or two use. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame shame on me. You did a good job on the video, do it a few times and you will change your mind about the machine.
If you strip a thread, it is you who is doing it wrong.
I have a similar machine, it is cheaply made, but it does what it is supposed to do.
I needed 4 new blades, the machine cost less than a single blade. Now all my blades are as good as new.
The machine works fine and it will save you a lot of money.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!! You don't ever need to sharpen the top face of a carbide saw blade! EVER!!! For what possible reason?
Ok
@@PawPawsWorkShop Hi. I own this same machine. For me it is sharp in your video at 8:55. I respect your own methodology but don't spread disinformation. Please give me just one possible reason why you need to hit the outside of this blade unless it's been chipped?
Thank you for sharing your comments. I hope people will read this.