Built these for my 15 Ford Escape and they work great! The only change I made was to use squared U-bolts - drilled the two holes and chiseled out a channel so the U-bolt would sit below the surface of the 2x4. I was able to position them so that the hatch can be fully raised even when 4x8 sheets are up there. Thanks for the video Dan!
@@jimm9426I think this is why Dan recommends 1 or 2 sheets at a time. I wouldn't trust the middle sheet in a stack of 3. I'm about to build this for my '15 Crosstrek and am planning to make a couple trips for 5 4x8 sheets, let's see how it goes
Greatful Dan for another one of your creative ideas. I was wanting to build cabinets for my shop, but didn't want to have to carry 15 sheets of plywood in a rental van at once to occupy my whole garage. This gives me the option of buying little at a time as I am building / using material and carry it on my car. Thanks again.
Had an unpleasant discovery that, despite my SUV being advertised and sold as something you could add a hitch to, and even promises from the dealership that they would add the branded factory hitch as soon as the company made it available, ... no hitch. Company won't authorize adding factory hitch despite my being willing to sign a liability waiver. This has provided the solid alternative for loads too wide or too long or both. (Have to transport 16' cattle panels soon - even folded over, they don't fit inside. And bonus points - car's just about 15' long so only a small overhang if I build the rails slightly longer than your example. Really appreciate your attention to detail and providing tips like insetting the bolts to prevent scarring the load. Nicely done! EDIT: Phase one done. We added old sections of bike inner tube to the saddles in the 2x4s - works as antislip against side to side movement, protects the roof rack as well (roof rack bars are curved profile *and* arched upward toward center of the car). Added same as a sleeve over the two upright brackets to protect sheet goods and keep them from sliding around while I'm trying to tie them down. Phase 2 will be adding tie-down mounts along the bottom edge of the 2x4s for bungee attachment points.
Fast forward to 2022 and you are Still inspiring people. Thanks, Dan. I'm in the process of making mine [just waiting on the U-bolts]. This will save me a fortune in sheet wood delivery costs. :)
awesome, I've been trying to come up with a way to transport 4x8 sheets with my Outback, and this is one of the most simplistic and effective methods I have seen so far! Thanks for the great idea!!
This is an absolutely brilliant idea, and solves about 250 of my problems. I was considering trading in my BMW for a truck, but this may be even more versatile for my needs. Why would I use my BMW for a work vehicle? Because I *LIKE* the car, and I only care to own one car. Thank you so much for this video!
zhifang wang Yes, I took a while to get around to it. I had to modify it a bit and cut the back slots a little deeper to accomodate the slope of the roof on my Subaru Outback and keep the boards level from front to back. I moved sections of butcher block countertop last weekend and it worked like a charm!
great idea. I use the roof rack with ratcheting straps on my van daily. I found some straps that do not have hooks on them. instead the strap is sewn on to the ratchet making a loop. I found these are a big improvement. I don't worry about finding a place to hook the straps and the section between the ratchet and hook is never too long.
This is genius, you just made my Volvo into exactly what I need. I have an XC70 and was wondering how best to use the roof rails, thank you very much for this.
There are a lot of neat looking projects on You Tube that don't live up to the videos. This one is a real winner, though. I put one together for my Tesla Y for carrying lumber and other materials for my woodworking and home projects. For $20, it works great! The roof rack for the Tesla is pretty nicely finished and has an ellipsoid shape, so I slightly modified the plans by contact cementing rubber strips to the top of the metal strips and the bottom of the cutout in the 2x4's. Great project and excellent video, Dan.
I'd love to see your setup on this. I got rid of my truck back in 2011 due to high gas prices and age, and got a small car as I had to commute a good bit. Finding a way to haul LONG and awkward loads along with all the other tools has been an ongoing project.
I did a video about how I packed my tools in the car but I ended up pulling it down due to safety concerns. I bought a mini van with a commercial upfit a couple years ago and use that for my work vehicle. It has a steel cargo divider in it so it keeps all the tools and materials separated from the front seats. My main concern with using the car was that if I was to ever get into an accident there would be nothing to keep all the tools from flying forward into me.
What a simple idea and so easy to execute. I was wondering how to get some ply home as right now, with the UK in lockdown, I can't get a delivery and can't hire a van. What's more - my garage door has fallen of its runners - completely shearing the guide bars. Thanks for this - you've saved me a *lot* of effort and expense. Subscribed. *EDIT* Also, kicking myself slightly for not thinking of it myself. :)
This is just what I needed! I have this same car and have been considering getting a truck. Might have to rethink about trading the car in now! Thanks!
As added feature I mitered the rear ends of the 2 x4 and added wheel casters pointing up & at an angle.This makes sliding sheet goods effortless and scratch free.
A 5 Star Idea!! Thank you so much for sharing !! I have a 4 door sedan and was thinking I'd have to get my sheet lumber precut at the store. Now I don't have to :)
That's a great idea to add rails to the side of the loads you're carrying on the roof, I've been thinking about making a sled / bed for the roof rails for my car but this seems so much simpler! Thanks for sharing it. :-)
I am going to implement this on my family minivan. I can fit 4 x 8 material inside if I lower all the seats, but removing my kids car seats every time I want to transport material just isn’t worth it. Thank you for sharing this! Still relevant in 2024.
+Slap Stick I think you're right. I have a video coming up on small shop dust collection solutions and small shop solutions have generally been my focus since I work out of a smaller shop and with a smaller vehicle. I'm glad that you guys find the videos helpful.
Brilliant idea :) could you please make the video on how you pack your car.... it's always helpful to get top tips on how to carry you gear effectively.
Thanks for this. I have a 2004 Ford Explorer and I don’t want to purchase a F-150 or similar. I’m definitely going to build one. Lol you just reminded me of the Subaru Brat that had the seats in the cab.
Great and enjoyable video. Thank you Dan. I like the idea of the angle irons in the front. It kind of also acts as a measure for safe number of sheets. Flexible and inexpensive also.
As someone who also has to use a car (luckily an estate, or station wagon as you know them) for working I would love to see more about your setup. These roof bars are a great idea and if I get a roof rack I will certainly make a pair.
Hi Dan. Really found this video helpful and intend to do it myself so I can transport sheet materials. My question is: when carrying several sheets of drywall and securing them with ratchet straps, how would you stop the straps from cutting into the boards?
The straps always worked for me to keep everything in place. I have since switched to using clamps to clamp the material to the 2x4 rails which works better.
Thanks Dan, I too have a small car & recently fitted a roof rack similar to yours. Your idea would be perfect for my project as I too need to move sheet goods for jobs.
That's almost exactly what I imagined in my head when thinking about doing something like this, but I was convinced I'd need cross beams. You don't get any issues with wind when carrying 4x8 sheets?
Well done, Dan. Great idea. I think I might do something similar for my Trailblazer. I bet that Clark Griswald watched this video before taking Aunt Edna to Arizona. :)
Great job! But I am not sure how does the wind impact the rack. I saw some other videos using the same solution but due to the strong wind, the top rail is pulling off.
Are those after market roof racks? Or specifically made for your model car. I bought a set of "universal" racks. They were not secure at all. I have a 2015 Ford focus.
They are Thule racks with the standard cross bars but the feet are made specifically for my car and screw into spots in the roof that are designed for the roof racks. They make for a very secure setup.
@@DPShopTalk do t leave them on all the time? Or just when you need them? Ice been looking at Thule for my car. I know you must take the 2x4s off, but do you leave the Thule on all the time?
I used to leave them on all the time when I was using them regularly but I keep them off now unless I need them. I have a van now that I use for work so the car doesn't get used for work anymore unless the van is broken down.
This is a really cool idea. But I'm curious about one thing. With the way those notches in the wood and the bolts and steel plates fot around the crossbars, what's the stop the rails themselves from sliding side to side while driving? Does fiction alone stop that, or is there some other part of the system that fixes that?
The friction from the clamping force of the steel plates and nuts keeps the rails from moving sideways. There is no way they will move sideways with any kind of real world force that you would encounter.
Nice idea! Why have you lied the wooden rails by their narrower side (2), and not by their wider one (4)? or can you swap the sides according to the material you are transporting?
Orienting the 2x4s on their edge gives more horizontal strength and rigidity to support the front and back portions of the sheet goods where the 2x4s cantilever past the roof rack rails.
Brilliant~ Looks great. Sure beats buying an Expensive pick-up truck. When carrying plywood I bring my cordless drill and run 3 or 4 drywall screws through the sheets to keep the load tight.. I know In California you want to be sure and have a Red flag/cloth for projecting materials 4' past the rear.. I hear these racks generally have a weight limit of 150lbs. So I couldn't carry my Mother in Law if I wanted to.. ;)
Do you live in a wet and snowy climate? I can imagine the wood would rot quite fast unless you remove the 2x4s after each trip to the lumber yard. Maybe wolmanized rails or composite rails are better depending on climate?
Yes depending on the time of year its wet and snowy here a good portion of the year. I only mount the rails on when I need to use them, otherwise I keep them in the shop. I don't use them on the car much anymore but I do use them on my work van.
What keeps your 2x4s from wanting to squeeze together after strapping them while transporting sheets of plywood. I know you are using carriage bolts into a metal plate, but that still might not hold with lots of pressure from the straps
The straps don't pull horizontally on the 2x4s when they are tightened since the 4x8 sheet is wider than the space between the 2x4s so that hasn't been an issue. If you put the straps around the 2x4s without a sheet on top it would definitely squeeze them together.
Curious if there is a reason you didn't lay the 2x4's down, and put small blocks of each side of the rails. Would lower not be better? Ask because I like to learn, maybe there is something I am missing. Other question - there is not outside support to hold the strap from crushing the material if you ratchet down hard, or holding the sheets from sliding side to side. Would it not be better to have 2x4's 49/50" wide to really secure 4x8 sheets and protect them and keep them from shifting left/right?
The reason I used the 2x4s on their edge is for strength supporting the length of the sheet. I've seen someone use the 2x4s on the flat and it made for a flimsy setup. Adding some 2x4s going side to side and adding blocks on the ends to capture the sheets is a good idea. I don't often use this setup anymore since I have a van for my work now. I have thick cardboard corners that I've used on the edges of sheets to protect them from the ratchet straps.
This is perfect! It's given me some closure given that you are doing fine with a car that is similar to the size of mine. Thanks for putting your message out there :)
I've actually switched to a micro van as a dedicated work vehicle which is smaller than the car but with a lot more interior space. I use the same system for carrying sheet goods on the roof of the van. If you're interested in seeing that episode I'll put the link below. th-cam.com/video/Gt7bK4Dfo5I/w-d-xo.html
I've been giving that some thought lately actually. I would like to have a faster install system. I haven't had the time yet to come up with anything different but hope to at some point. I don't use these on my car much anymore but I use them on my work van.
In the picture at 1:00 ... I recommend using a second nut or at least Loctite for the nuts. Single nuts may back themselves off from the vibrations of driving and force of gravity.
I purposely used plates that have a bit of flex to them so that they have a bit of spring action to them which keeps pressure against the nuts and acts like a lock washer does to keep the nuts from backing off like you mentioned.
Yeah it requires a wrench to get the nuts backed off when the plates are flexed so it definitely keeps them from backing off from vibration etc. Definitely don't want the whole thing flying off when I'm driving lol. I have a van now but I still use the same setup on the roof when needed. If you look under the community tab on my channel there's a pic of these rails on my work van.
Many years ago I tried something similar to this. The issue I had when carrying paneling was the wind creating lift on the panels at speeds over 30 mph. Would you think that creating a bit of a slope at the rear of the 2x4s solve the problem. Basically is would create a down ward force similar to that of an airplane wing at landing.
thank you very much for the video. the only thing i would change is the direction the bolts are installed. would put the nuts on top so i could use a drill/impact to speed things up, would just need washers, yes, im extremely careful!
Is it very important to have the rails sloped from front to back to prevent lifting of the sheets with the wind? It seems yours naturally do that from the shape of your hood but mine does the opposite. How would I fix that?
You could make the notches in the 2x4s a little deeper for the front cross bar which would make the front sit a little lower. I've never had any issues with lift with my setup. I try and avoid highway speeds though too.
I had gotten as far as a notched 2x4 but hadn't landed on the galvanized plate as a retainer. I was also considering beveling the front of the 2x4s and attaching an air dam, because I envisioned longer range full time transport of ladders and materials. Its a great simple solution. I will likely do nyloc nuts and 1/4x20 bolts with a phillips head. Lets you use a pair of pliers and drill or impact driver to attach the supports. Plenty strong as fasteners and less wood is taken out with the hole.
Dan have you transported 4 x 8 on a freeway using your system? Just wondering how safe is it and if anyone tried transportation plywood on a freeway. Thanks for you great video.
That's a pretty good idea and an easy build. I don't have a pickup or a mini van, so this will be useful for me. I would be interested in seeing a video of the setup you have in your car.
+David Caplette I actually had a video posted of how I packed my tools in my car but I ended up pulling it down for safety reasons. After I realized that having all of that weight behind me in the car would be very dangerous in an accident I ended up buying a mini van with a commercial upfit and steel cargo divider.
Dan Pattison ah yeah I can understand. What about the solution in this video, did you ever have any problems with it ? What about police stopping you ? I'm in Quebec, so maybe not the same laws, but it would give me an idea of what I could expect.
Good idea! I started setting this up for my car and found the space between the rack and the roof is so short that I can't really get my hand in there to put a nut on the bolt end. Any ideas for an alternative to your bolts/plates to secure the rack that would require less access? I was thinking about a rubber t-handle latch, but that doesn't seem ideal. Thanks!
It's about 1.5" at edge where I'd be trying to clamp it down. Part of the issue is that it's an SUV, if it were a shorter car I might have an easier time dealing with the low clearance, but yours looks much roomier beneath the cross bars.
+jonhartftc yeah the Thule system that I use definitely gives a lot more space under the bars. What you might need to do is invert the bolt setup and have the heads of the bolts on the underside of the metal plate and the nuts on the top side of the 2x4s countersunk in. Wouldn't be as convenient of an install for sure but it might work in your situation.
The Ford Escape's standard roof rack also has curved cross-members, so I decided I'd just add cross-members to my 2x4 wood frame, to keep a nice flat surface despite the curve, and just used some u-bolts through the cross-members to secure it to the built in cross-members. Bit less convenient than your design as it takes up more space, but it works. Also put some vinyl on the underside of the notches that rest on the built-in cross-members since I have to slide the whole thing across.
Dan Pattison Hmm. I was going under 30 and would still get it. I did read though if you twist your strap where it’s not resting on anything, it will eliminate that. So will see.
I was told the black peices on the sides of the roof were called gutters, that person didn't know what they were talking about. They are the siderails for the luggage rack. I found the crossbars that fit into the siderails used online. You really should use factory original crossbars or thier is going to a problem with them fitting. I definitely prefer ebay over amazon for something like this. Not sure if I will be able to put two by fours onto the crossbars on my car though. They don't stick up very far and are curved. I am wanting this to carry 4 by 8 lumber.
The rack that I use is a Thule rack and it is specifically designed for my Impreza. It bolts into factory mount locations so it is a good secure system. I bought it second hand on kijiji.
Where did you get the plates? Also, what size bolts? My first thought was to replace those with some U-bolts and cut them so they sit below the surface of the 2x4. I'd tighten with a ratchet and socket.
Occasionally you stumble upon little nuggets of gold on TH-cam and this video fits perfectly into that category. Thanks bro ... 👍
Built these for my 15 Ford Escape and they work great! The only change I made was to use squared U-bolts - drilled the two holes and chiseled out a channel so the U-bolt would sit below the surface of the 2x4. I was able to position them so that the hatch can be fully raised even when 4x8 sheets are up there. Thanks for the video Dan!
Just made these for my 2015 Crosstrek and was amazed at how secure my plywood was with only 2 ratchet straps. Great idea!
So you didn't need any "L" brackets in the back? Won't plywood slide out the back?
@@jimm9426I think this is why Dan recommends 1 or 2 sheets at a time. I wouldn't trust the middle sheet in a stack of 3. I'm about to build this for my '15 Crosstrek and am planning to make a couple trips for 5 4x8 sheets, let's see how it goes
Greatful Dan for another one of your creative ideas. I was wanting to build cabinets for my shop, but didn't want to have to carry 15 sheets of plywood in a rental van at once to occupy my whole garage. This gives me the option of buying little at a time as I am building / using material and carry it on my car. Thanks again.
Had an unpleasant discovery that, despite my SUV being advertised and sold as something you could add a hitch to, and even promises from the dealership that they would add the branded factory hitch as soon as the company made it available, ... no hitch. Company won't authorize adding factory hitch despite my being willing to sign a liability waiver. This has provided the solid alternative for loads too wide or too long or both. (Have to transport 16' cattle panels soon - even folded over, they don't fit inside. And bonus points - car's just about 15' long so only a small overhang if I build the rails slightly longer than your example. Really appreciate your attention to detail and providing tips like insetting the bolts to prevent scarring the load. Nicely done!
EDIT: Phase one done. We added old sections of bike inner tube to the saddles in the 2x4s - works as antislip against side to side movement, protects the roof rack as well (roof rack bars are curved profile *and* arched upward toward center of the car). Added same as a sleeve over the two upright brackets to protect sheet goods and keep them from sliding around while I'm trying to tie them down. Phase 2 will be adding tie-down mounts along the bottom edge of the 2x4s for bungee attachment points.
Fast forward to 2022 and you are Still inspiring people. Thanks, Dan. I'm in the process of making mine [just waiting on the U-bolts]. This will save me a fortune in sheet wood delivery costs. :)
2023, checking in. Solid build here. Thanks, Dan!
as a DIYer and small hatchback owner this is ingenious and appreciate you sharing the details and design
One of the best reasons to use a regular car to go to the job is that it is much easier to park in busy areas. Great video!
awesome, I've been trying to come up with a way to transport 4x8 sheets with my Outback, and this is one of the most simplistic and effective methods I have seen so far! Thanks for the great idea!!
I'm thinking of getting an outback. Which version/engine do you have? Any good?
get the base model and 2013+ for the timing chain. they had head gasket issues in the mid-2000s but that was mostly resolved around 2009. good cars.
This is an absolutely brilliant idea, and solves about 250 of my problems. I was considering trading in my BMW for a truck, but this may be even more versatile for my needs. Why would I use my BMW for a work vehicle? Because I *LIKE* the car, and I only care to own one car. Thank you so much for this video!
Hi did you make?
zhifang wang Yes, I took a while to get around to it. I had to modify it a bit and cut the back slots a little deeper to accomodate the slope of the roof on my Subaru Outback and keep the boards level from front to back. I moved sections of butcher block countertop last weekend and it worked like a charm!
@@jonjimihendrix thanks Jonathan 💞
Perfect! So nice to see someone post something useful, professional, well-thought-out and right to the point. Good job!
great idea. I use the roof rack with ratcheting straps on my van daily. I found some straps that do not have hooks on them. instead the strap is sewn on to the ratchet making a loop. I found these are a big improvement. I don't worry about finding a place to hook the straps and the section between the ratchet and hook is never too long.
+Ryan Kaplan that sounds like a great strap. I'll have to keep an eye out for those. Thanks for sharing the tip.
Ryan,
Are the straps you are recommending like the Lee Valley Fast Straps (No. 99W87.03)?
Thanks!
David K. more like 17F10.02
Love it. Maybe round the rear corners and add some plastic sheeting on the curve to reduce materials damage at load?
This is genius, you just made my Volvo into exactly what I need. I have an XC70 and was wondering how best to use the roof rails, thank you very much for this.
There are a lot of neat looking projects on You Tube that don't live up to the videos. This one is a real winner, though. I put one together for my Tesla Y for carrying lumber and other materials for my woodworking and home projects. For $20, it works great! The roof rack for the Tesla is pretty nicely finished and has an ellipsoid shape, so I slightly modified the plans by contact cementing rubber strips to the top of the metal strips and the bottom of the cutout in the 2x4's. Great project and excellent video, Dan.
I'd love to see your setup on this. I got rid of my truck back in 2011 due to high gas prices and age, and got a small car as I had to commute a good bit. Finding a way to haul LONG and awkward loads along with all the other tools has been an ongoing project.
I did a video about how I packed my tools in the car but I ended up pulling it down due to safety concerns. I bought a mini van with a commercial upfit a couple years ago and use that for my work vehicle. It has a steel cargo divider in it so it keeps all the tools and materials separated from the front seats. My main concern with using the car was that if I was to ever get into an accident there would be nothing to keep all the tools from flying forward into me.
What a simple idea and so easy to execute. I was wondering how to get some ply home as right now, with the UK in lockdown, I can't get a delivery and can't hire a van. What's more - my garage door has fallen of its runners - completely shearing the guide bars. Thanks for this - you've saved me a *lot* of effort and expense. Subscribed.
*EDIT* Also, kicking myself slightly for not thinking of it myself. :)
Glad to hear you found it helpful!
Id love to see how you pack your tools in your car!
This is just what I needed! I have this same car and have been considering getting a truck. Might have to rethink about trading the car in now! Thanks!
As added feature I mitered the rear ends of the 2 x4 and added wheel casters pointing up & at an angle.This makes sliding sheet goods effortless and scratch free.
That's a great addition 👍
A 5 Star Idea!! Thank you so much for sharing !! I have a 4 door sedan and was thinking I'd have to get my sheet lumber precut at the store. Now I don't have to :)
This is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You sir, are a genius! Thank you for Sharing
That's a great idea to add rails to the side of the loads you're carrying on the roof, I've been thinking about making a sled / bed for the roof rails for my car but this seems so much simpler!
Thanks for sharing it. :-)
Just made these rails for my subaru crosstrek and they worked perfectly! Thanks for the thoughtful explanation and video
I am going to implement this on my family minivan. I can fit 4 x 8 material inside if I lower all the seats, but removing my kids car seats every time I want to transport material just isn’t worth it. Thank you for sharing this! Still relevant in 2024.
Great ideas. So many of us have smaller cars and smaller spaces to work with. It can be a great series of videos...
+Slap Stick I think you're right. I have a video coming up on small shop dust collection solutions and small shop solutions have generally been my focus since I work out of a smaller shop and with a smaller vehicle. I'm glad that you guys find the videos helpful.
Dan Pattison Great! Make sure you see 'Steve Ramsey's dust collection video for small rooms', to avoid any redundancy.
+Slap Stick thanks I'll check that out.
Thanks for the idea! The 2x4's are too simple to make! Home Depot and Lowes both want $80 for delivery and they are just down the street.
This is a very good idea. Little details like morticing the brackets are well thought out.
Superb idea. I've been toying with a solution for carrying sheets and mine has been a lot more complex so far. You have inspired me!
Brilliant idea :) could you please make the video on how you pack your car.... it's always helpful to get top tips on how to carry you gear effectively.
Thanks for this. I have a 2004 Ford Explorer and I don’t want to purchase a F-150 or similar. I’m definitely going to build one. Lol you just reminded me of the Subaru Brat that had the seats in the cab.
Id love to see your setup in the back of your car. Nice video!
Great job buddy. Thank you for making this video.
Dan great video best one I've seen out there thanks for the help
What a wonderful idea! So clever and practical. Thank you so much for sharing. 👏👍❤️I think I will make one.
Great and enjoyable video. Thank you Dan. I like the idea of the angle irons in the front. It kind of also acts as a measure for safe number of sheets. Flexible and inexpensive also.
As someone who also has to use a car (luckily an estate, or station wagon as you know them) for working I would love to see more about your setup. These roof bars are a great idea and if I get a roof rack I will certainly make a pair.
Hi Dan. Really found this video helpful and intend to do it myself so I can transport sheet materials. My question is: when carrying several sheets of drywall and securing them with ratchet straps, how would you stop the straps from cutting into the boards?
I would make some wooden corners to put under the straps to prevent damaging the drywall.
This was simpler than what I had planned, and it worked beautifully today. A ratcheting socket wrench saves bother putting it on.
What a simple, inexpensive but effective setup! Also would not take up a lot of room in the shop for storage when not in use. Thanks for sharing
Those 2 straps are enough to prevemt those boards/panels not to slid while the car is on motion?
The straps always worked for me to keep everything in place. I have since switched to using clamps to clamp the material to the 2x4 rails which works better.
Thanks Dan, I too have a small car & recently fitted a roof rack similar to yours. Your idea would be perfect for my project as I too need to move sheet goods for jobs.
Awesome video and idea..... I'm going straight into the shop to make these right now!
good to see that one can do some construction without needing a 60000 truck! I knew you had to be a Canuck....a polite, modest canuck...I love it!
Definitely a Canuck eh! I like to be innovative rather than spending a lot of unnecessary money on something I don't need.
@@DPShopTalk that's the Canadian way!
Well conceived and illustrated ... thanks for sharing. Cheers
That's almost exactly what I imagined in my head when thinking about doing something like this, but I was convinced I'd need cross beams. You don't get any issues with wind when carrying 4x8 sheets?
I generally avoid highway speeds and windy days if I'm going to carry sheets on the roof and haven't had any issues.
Well done, Dan. Great idea. I think I might do something similar for my Trailblazer. I bet that Clark Griswald watched this video before taking Aunt Edna to Arizona. :)
Just what I was looking for. Very nice!
Thanks, Dan! Super helpful.
Common sense, practical and easy to do. Well done. Thanks
Very nice idea and would surely like to see the way you haul your tools too. Thanks for sharing.
I like your video my friend. Is it possible to carry a 28 inches fiber glass ladder on top of a 2015 Ford Fiesta se?
As long as you secure it properly
Great job! But I am not sure how does the wind impact the rack. I saw some other videos using the same solution but due to the strong wind, the top rail is pulling off.
I would avoid windy days using it and also keep the speed down.
This is simple and clever. Thank you!
If you use large-diameter PVC pipe to carry the smaller, more flexible moulding, it would provide support and protection from the elements.
That would work great for moulding.
Hey Dan, that is well thought out and well documented. Thanks for the idea... gonna build a set for my Prius v.
Are those after market roof racks? Or specifically made for your model car. I bought a set of "universal" racks. They were not secure at all. I have a 2015 Ford focus.
They are Thule racks with the standard cross bars but the feet are made specifically for my car and screw into spots in the roof that are designed for the roof racks. They make for a very secure setup.
@@DPShopTalk do t leave them on all the time? Or just when you need them? Ice been looking at Thule for my car. I know you must take the 2x4s off, but do you leave the Thule on all the time?
I used to leave them on all the time when I was using them regularly but I keep them off now unless I need them. I have a van now that I use for work so the car doesn't get used for work anymore unless the van is broken down.
@@DPShopTalk thanks
This is a really cool idea. But I'm curious about one thing.
With the way those notches in the wood and the bolts and steel plates fot around the crossbars, what's the stop the rails themselves from sliding side to side while driving? Does fiction alone stop that, or is there some other part of the system that fixes that?
The friction from the clamping force of the steel plates and nuts keeps the rails from moving sideways. There is no way they will move sideways with any kind of real world force that you would encounter.
@@DPShopTalk Perfect. I thought so. Can't wait to try this!
Nice idea! Why have you lied the wooden rails by their narrower side (2), and not by their wider one (4)? or can you swap the sides according to the material you are transporting?
Orienting the 2x4s on their edge gives more horizontal strength and rigidity to support the front and back portions of the sheet goods where the 2x4s cantilever past the roof rack rails.
@@DPShopTalk thank you :-) I will try this project then. It looks very smart
Thank you! I'm going to do this on my Crosstrek.
Boy i can think of so many little additions to this that would make ot even better
Brilliant~ Looks great. Sure beats buying an Expensive pick-up truck. When carrying plywood I bring my cordless drill and run 3 or 4 drywall screws through the sheets to keep the load tight.. I know In California you want to be sure and have a Red flag/cloth for projecting materials 4' past the rear.. I hear these racks generally have a weight limit of 150lbs. So I couldn't carry my Mother in Law if I wanted to.. ;)
Brilliant! Solves several of my problems?
Do you live in a wet and snowy climate? I can imagine the wood would rot quite fast unless you remove the 2x4s after each trip to the lumber yard. Maybe wolmanized rails or composite rails are better depending on climate?
Yes depending on the time of year its wet and snowy here a good portion of the year. I only mount the rails on when I need to use them, otherwise I keep them in the shop. I don't use them on the car much anymore but I do use them on my work van.
Thanks Dan. Looks reliable and solid.
This is awesome! You just saved me a trip to U-Haul. Where did you get the flat metal plate that you put under the cross bar and what is it called?
I bought those at Home Depot and I think they are called joining plates.
Simple and brilliant. Nice work
Thanks, I think I'll add tie down hooks on the side for the rachet straps
What keeps your 2x4s from wanting to squeeze together after strapping them while transporting sheets of plywood. I know you are using carriage bolts into a metal plate, but that still might not hold with lots of pressure from the straps
The straps don't pull horizontally on the 2x4s when they are tightened since the 4x8 sheet is wider than the space between the 2x4s so that hasn't been an issue. If you put the straps around the 2x4s without a sheet on top it would definitely squeeze them together.
I found this video really helpful and fortunately for me I also have a Subaru Impreza. Could I know which roof rack you installed on your car?
I got the Thule racks with the square cross bars and the feet that are made for the Impreza.
Great design and presentation thanks for sharing!
Curious if there is a reason you didn't lay the 2x4's down, and put small blocks of each side of the rails. Would lower not be better? Ask because I like to learn, maybe there is something I am missing.
Other question - there is not outside support to hold the strap from crushing the material if you ratchet down hard, or holding the sheets from sliding side to side. Would it not be better to have 2x4's 49/50" wide to really secure 4x8 sheets and protect them and keep them from shifting left/right?
The reason I used the 2x4s on their edge is for strength supporting the length of the sheet. I've seen someone use the 2x4s on the flat and it made for a flimsy setup. Adding some 2x4s going side to side and adding blocks on the ends to capture the sheets is a good idea. I don't often use this setup anymore since I have a van for my work now. I have thick cardboard corners that I've used on the edges of sheets to protect them from the ratchet straps.
This is perfect! It's given me some closure given that you are doing fine with a car that is similar to the size of mine. Thanks for putting your message out there :)
I've actually switched to a micro van as a dedicated work vehicle which is smaller than the car but with a lot more interior space. I use the same system for carrying sheet goods on the roof of the van. If you're interested in seeing that episode I'll put the link below.
th-cam.com/video/Gt7bK4Dfo5I/w-d-xo.html
Great idea. Does anyone have a way to replace the bolts with some type of quick release clamp to make installation quicker?
I've been giving that some thought lately actually. I would like to have a faster install system. I haven't had the time yet to come up with anything different but hope to at some point. I don't use these on my car much anymore but I use them on my work van.
wing nuts with lock washers
Please make a video on how you have the inside layed out ! Sentence exactly in regards to a roof rack on a suv more efficient than a pickup!
Great idea!! Simple enough for me to do!! Thanks much!!
In the picture at 1:00 ... I recommend using a second nut or at least Loctite for the nuts. Single nuts may back themselves off from the vibrations of driving and force of gravity.
I purposely used plates that have a bit of flex to them so that they have a bit of spring action to them which keeps pressure against the nuts and acts like a lock washer does to keep the nuts from backing off like you mentioned.
@@DPShopTalk Brilliant! It'd take quite a jolt to loosen the nuts in that case.
Yeah it requires a wrench to get the nuts backed off when the plates are flexed so it definitely keeps them from backing off from vibration etc. Definitely don't want the whole thing flying off when I'm driving lol. I have a van now but I still use the same setup on the roof when needed. If you look under the community tab on my channel there's a pic of these rails on my work van.
Perfect! Gonna do this thanks!
Very well made video, Dan. I'm anxious to try that out.
Many years ago I tried something similar to this. The issue I had when carrying paneling was the wind creating lift on the panels at speeds over 30 mph. Would you think that creating a bit of a slope at the rear of the 2x4s solve the problem. Basically is would create a down ward force similar to that of an airplane wing at landing.
I've never had any issues but a slope would definitely help with that.
Simple and effective and safe , well done
This was pretty smart. Thanks!
thank you very much for the video. the only thing i would change is the direction the bolts are installed. would put the nuts on top so i could use a drill/impact to speed things up, would just need washers, yes, im extremely careful!
This is really good information. Thank you for sharing.
Nice one Dan!
Is it very important to have the rails sloped from front to back to prevent lifting of the sheets with the wind? It seems yours naturally do that from the shape of your hood but mine does the opposite. How would I fix that?
You could make the notches in the 2x4s a little deeper for the front cross bar which would make the front sit a little lower. I've never had any issues with lift with my setup. I try and avoid highway speeds though too.
Thank you Dan!!!!!!!!!!
I had gotten as far as a notched 2x4 but hadn't landed on the galvanized plate as a retainer. I was also considering beveling the front of the 2x4s and attaching an air dam, because I envisioned longer range full time transport of ladders and materials. Its a great simple solution. I will likely do nyloc nuts and 1/4x20 bolts with a phillips head. Lets you use a pair of pliers and drill or impact driver to attach the supports. Plenty strong as fasteners and less wood is taken out with the hole.
Dan have you transported 4 x 8 on a freeway using your system? Just wondering how safe is it and if anyone tried transportation plywood on a freeway. Thanks for you great video.
I usually avoid highway speeds just to be safe.
That's a pretty good idea and an easy build. I don't have a pickup or a mini van, so this will be useful for me.
I would be interested in seeing a video of the setup you have in your car.
+David Caplette I actually had a video posted of how I packed my tools in my car but I ended up pulling it down for safety reasons. After I realized that having all of that weight behind me in the car would be very dangerous in an accident I ended up buying a mini van with a commercial upfit and steel cargo divider.
Dan Pattison ah yeah I can understand. What about the solution in this video, did you ever have any problems with it ? What about police stopping you ? I'm in Quebec, so maybe not the same laws, but it would give me an idea of what I could expect.
+David Caplette no I've never had any issues with the roof rails
Good idea! I started setting this up for my car and found the space between the rack and the roof is so short that I can't really get my hand in there to put a nut on the bolt end. Any ideas for an alternative to your bolts/plates to secure the rack that would require less access? I was thinking about a rubber t-handle latch, but that doesn't seem ideal. Thanks!
+jonhartftc how much space do you have between the bottom of your cross bars and the roof?
It's about 1.5" at edge where I'd be trying to clamp it down. Part of the issue is that it's an SUV, if it were a shorter car I might have an easier time dealing with the low clearance, but yours looks much roomier beneath the cross bars.
+jonhartftc yeah the Thule system that I use definitely gives a lot more space under the bars. What you might need to do is invert the bolt setup and have the heads of the bolts on the underside of the metal plate and the nuts on the top side of the 2x4s countersunk in. Wouldn't be as convenient of an install for sure but it might work in your situation.
The Ford Escape's standard roof rack also has curved cross-members, so I decided I'd just add cross-members to my 2x4 wood frame, to keep a nice flat surface despite the curve, and just used some u-bolts through the cross-members to secure it to the built in cross-members. Bit less convenient than your design as it takes up more space, but it works. Also put some vinyl on the underside of the notches that rest on the built-in cross-members since I have to slide the whole thing across.
+jonhartftc sounds like you came up with a good solution, thanks for sharing.
Great job and great video! Thank you!
Is it possible to transport drywall with that setup? Or will the drywall break from the ratchet straps?
You can transport drywall but you would have to be careful with how tight the straps are.
You are brilliant sir! Thank you for this!!!
Worked great for me. But do have a question, how in the world do you not have the annoying loud buzzing sounds of the tensioned straps, when driving?
I usually don't drive at highway speeds with that setup so I haven't found it to be a problem.
Dan Pattison Hmm. I was going under 30 and would still get it. I did read though if you twist your strap where it’s not resting on anything, it will eliminate that. So will see.
nice Idea! always try to fit it in my car... I don't know if we are allowe to use your idea here in NL...
Let me know when you find this out
I was told the black peices on the sides of the roof were called gutters, that person didn't know what they were talking about. They are the siderails for the luggage rack. I found the crossbars that fit into the siderails used online. You really should use factory original crossbars or thier is going to a problem with them fitting. I definitely prefer ebay over amazon for something like this. Not sure if I will be able to put two by fours onto the crossbars on my car though. They don't stick up very far and are curved. I am wanting this to carry 4 by 8 lumber.
The rack that I use is a Thule rack and it is specifically designed for my Impreza. It bolts into factory mount locations so it is a good secure system. I bought it second hand on kijiji.
Where did you get the plates? Also, what size bolts? My first thought was to replace those with some U-bolts and cut them so they sit below the surface of the 2x4. I'd tighten with a ratchet and socket.
I got the plates at Home Depot and I think I used 5/16" bolts. U bolts would certainly work too.